I really like your guys methods for everything you do. You do everything with intention, thorough and efficient. I like slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. I'm going to adopt that motto 🙂
Love the methods you apply to your trade.... might want to try milwaukee m 12 small band saw for rebar.... i use it often in plumbing repairs and scrapping.... no sparks..or vibration . 34 years and counting in the trades and appreciate the thought you put into the way to do things smarter not harder!... keep it up 👍
Changed the way I do concrete forms and pours, I set forms using just a level. I dump the concrete and screed off using the laser level on the day. No more guide pins, as long as the forms higher or no more then 6mm lower then concrete should be sweet. Using formed pads on a slab at the same distance apart as the length of the screed. Used to piss me off when people step on the forms and I would have to recheck and often raise forms the morning of the pour. I also ditched the timber pegs and use only star pickets and tek screws. No more split pegs, and missed nails in form work.
All those guys that say they are the fastest are generally not great at understanding the slow is smooth, smooth is fast idea. How long can you keep that pace? Do you sit at home exhausted after work? Do you damge your body and then take the next day off? Are you bent over by 40? Because I realized after my first back injury that I'm in this for the long haul, constant and we'll thought out work beats fast any day imo
Yes your work Life is a Marathon, Not a sprint, if your running to stand still, you've a Problem, What's the use of killing your self and Inheriting a back like a 🥨, Work Smarter Not Harder
I used to do that chasing big Bucks ! Not the kind you spend but eat! Tells us about all the weird things you seen over the years & heard Tim ! I hv some good ones! But I want to hear yours!
A few things that can help, not only with speed but accuracy. Total station is the very best for accuracy and speed. You can layout every corner and wall you program into the instrument. No need for tape measures. We use proform or formadrain. They have spacerbars for correct distances and keep rebar off the ground at the correct distance. If you want to use lumber they make wire chairs that poke in the ground. Extremely fast and extremely cheap.total station layouts take about 45 minutes to an hour. Only issue is the cost.
That Mt Ellinor hike is STRAIGHT UP. Cant believe the camera made it look so tame. The first half of that climb you’re basically grabbing onto roots and sliding
Lay out your whole footing before you form anything. Much faster and if you screw up you’re not moving your footing around. Lay it out to outside of wall and set it up off your string. Just as an example, if your footing is 16” wide you’ll set up your footing to 4” outside of the string and 12” to the inside, making your wall centered on your footing.
You guys are a great advertisement for Washington State. Please dial back a bit though on videos like the hiking one at the end… we don’t want *too* many people moving up here 😀
so you place the steel on top of the cleats, tie it up, use the spacer etc.. put em on top of the dobies and then take the cleats off, drop the steel, then put the steel back on? why wouldnt you just install them on top of the dobies and tie them together, doing the cleats last? Serious question - this is my first real concrete job im prepping for
Nice detailed video! Around 8:00 you mentioned finding a problem with your drone. Do you have a software application for your drone data for surveying?
I am looking to buy a laser for formwork, build a house etc and want to buy something that can do it all. Is the Stabila LA 180 a better purchase than the Hilti PR 30-HVSG? Thx, just subscribed!
My pop had his own construction company Here in Southern California Pop worked construction his whole life Pop had a class A engineering contractors license I've never seen footing board just laid on top of the ground The the way we did footings Was to dig the whole outline of the house I think it was a 2ft deep single-story 3 ft deep 2 story or 1 ft deep single-story 2 ft deep 2 story I can't quite remember It seems like the way they do footings up in the Pacific Northwest is completely different than down here in the south is that because of the earthquake potential for us Maybe you could explain why they do footings like that up there in a video or something
I don't know why the methods are so different here. All I know is its been common practice for at least 40 years (how long we've been in business) to dig out the foundation, form & pour footings, then walls then backfill around the outside. Our plans are engineered btw.
I have worked concrete up in so dak and we also dig down and then form with 2x8, I always figured it was a historic thing as we have lots of lumber here and hard rocky ground, also deep footings (48")
I missed something, one minute the rebar is sitting on the cleats, the next it's under them, did you just slide it out and lower it as you were tieing on the dobbies?
We get that a lot but actually it won't save time realistically. When they blow out the hole, they go fast, if you just do the footings they slow down some to be more accurate. So all things considered, it doesn't actually save us time. The company I work for (@PioneerBuildersInc) has 44 years of job costing. My dad was a finance guy (college degree) first then learned building after coming home from Vietnam. My brother runs the business now and his background is also finance.
@@AwesomeFramers I’ve never formed strip footings for a whole house so don’t have a reference for cost/benefit…… It just seems such a strange method when excavated strip footings are so common here in Australia. It would definitely save on volume of concrete. Thanks very much for all the content, it’s really great to see how things are done in other parts of the world.
you skipped showing how the rebar got UNDER the spreader bars. Did you unscrew each bar, remove it, then drop the rebar under and then reattach spreader bar?
no, you can see it in the video. All the bar is on top of the cleats, then we tie it all and tie the dobbies. Then just walk around and grab the verts and lift up enough to pop the cleats 👍
@@AwesomeFramers I reviewed the video again and still don't see it? at 22:17 the steel is on top of the spreader bars, and then at 22:18 it is all under the spreader bars....
@@hardwareguy1 my bad bro. I must have edited it out. I remember editing it but must have deleted to shorten the video. Basically just grab a vert, lift slightly, move the cleat, drop the bar, set the cleat 👍
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the reply, and the explanation. That makes sense. I (well, my contractor) has just started framing on my new house and wasn't around when they did the footings.
How long do you think you will be able to work in the field the way you do now? I’m almost 40 work for my self (electrical contractor 10 years). Your job looks so much more physical then electric work, which to me is pretty easy. I think I can make it well past 50 but time will tell.
I think about this all day every day. I see a chiropractor once a month, mostly as preventative maintenance. I just started seeing a physical therapist for suggestions on stretching and anything that needs correction. Good bill of health, saw him last week, but I definitely need to stretch. I bought a treadmill and use it every day, sometimes twice. Never running but walking and walking at incline. Hit the gym twice a week (except when COVID is surging) to train muscle groups. To answer your question, I hope to go past 50. RUclips and IG, as well as working with some companies like Huber and Strongtie doing hands on demos is part of the plan. That way I'm not bags on every day, but can give the old body a break.
I guess it varies from state to state, but one thing im having some confusion in is why is the footing just being poured on the actual soil? Here in california we are required to dig at least 18” below ground level, on top of that we needed to form footing ~6 inches on top of soil. Special occasions we had to dig up to 24 inches. I dont understand why its not required in your state? Help!
Yes, it does very by location. First of all, we aren't building footings right on top of the soil. We've excavated down 9' in the front to hard pan and "undisturbed soil". Second, the code and our structural engineer do not require footings to be dug into the dirt because after the foundation is finished, we'll back fill around the perimeter, and a slab will be poured inside. This is a a walk out or daylight basement. Hope that helps.
Where do you get your spreader cleats for the footing? I own a foundation company in spokane, Fellows Foundations inc, do you just hammer over the inside tab on the spreader cleat or can you buy them for 1 1/2 lumber?
dont forget your towel & PPE yallz, i wonder what the overall house design looks like, with this very strange footing. The guy on the back hoe did a really good job, that looks hard.
Steps in the footing is general for site elevation changes. Either they have to dig all the dirt out on the top of the hill to match the depth of the bottom of the hill or use steps in the footings to maintain the proper frost footing depth along the hill
@@AwesomeFramers strip footings are fantastic but if your comparing regions, here they are trenched into the ground and approximately 450mm deep (which I guess would be 1.5 feet in seppo measurements) with caged rio right through.
You're fooling yourself (and that's fine if you're into that line of reasoning) thinking that walking around the footing 3 times just so that you can do repetitive tasks each time around is more efficient. This has been well proven in manufacturing improvement evaluations, not to mention the amount of steps and number of times bending over it would save just to do all the tasks at each station at one time.
I frame out on the East Coast. I’m fascinated at how you all do things. You both are fantastic framers. Thanks for sharing your videos
It’s crazy how when you have an injury, everything seems to hit it with pinpoint accuracy x
I really like your guys methods for everything you do. You do everything with intention, thorough and efficient. I like slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. I'm going to adopt that motto 🙂
Can't believe how fast 40 minutes went by .... I enjoy every single one and you guys do a superb job with all the vids. Can see you all enjoy it too
Thanks so much bro
As a newbi to framing I gotta say you really teach it well and really do it well. Thanks for the detail.
Love the methods you apply to your trade.... might want to try milwaukee m 12 small band saw for rebar.... i use it often in plumbing repairs and scrapping.... no sparks..or vibration . 34 years and counting in the trades and appreciate the thought you put into the way to do things smarter not harder!... keep it up 👍
Feel you on the hammer method.. We use the metabo duplix nailer.. They also have duplix screws also.. Good framing
Dialing that in, reminds me of tuning a guitar, you get close and all of the sudden its too far. Great videos!
The Chuck Norris facts always crack me up.
Changed the way I do concrete forms and pours, I set forms using just a level. I dump the concrete and screed off using the laser level on the day. No more guide pins, as long as the forms higher or no more then 6mm lower then concrete should be sweet. Using formed pads on a slab at the same distance apart as the length of the screed. Used to piss me off when people step on the forms and I would have to recheck and often raise forms the morning of the pour. I also ditched the timber pegs and use only star pickets and tek screws. No more split pegs, and missed nails in form work.
Super inspirational, this was a great watch and super enjoyable. A well spent 40 minutes if you ask us
Im actually started working with concrete and this video is actually helpful thanks
Rebar tie gun is epic
All those guys that say they are the fastest are generally not great at understanding the slow is smooth, smooth is fast idea. How long can you keep that pace? Do you sit at home exhausted after work? Do you damge your body and then take the next day off? Are you bent over by 40? Because I realized after my first back injury that I'm in this for the long haul, constant and we'll thought out work beats fast any day imo
All great points 👍
Yes your work Life is a Marathon, Not a sprint, if your running to stand still, you've a Problem, What's the use of killing your self and Inheriting a back like a 🥨, Work Smarter Not Harder
Union companies expect you to break your back ..an they want you to work 7 days a week sometimes
I used to do that chasing big Bucks ! Not the kind you spend but eat! Tells us about all the weird things you seen over the years & heard Tim ! I hv some good ones! But I want to hear yours!
The most valuable thing.... Start with laser level... Then just use the bubble level. That saved so much time. Still double-checked.
that construction forklift probably costs more than a porsche \m/,
driving down the street in one of those is a big flex
Back on our heads! I thought my dad and I were the only ones.
remember that old joke? 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Dang those houses are so close to each other
Those mountain views were amazing!
right? We worked for it, but it was so worth it.
It’s not the speed, it’s quality! 👍🏻
A few things that can help, not only with speed but accuracy. Total station is the very best for accuracy and speed. You can layout every corner and wall you program into the instrument. No need for tape measures. We use proform or formadrain. They have spacerbars for correct distances and keep rebar off the ground at the correct distance. If you want to use lumber they make wire chairs that poke in the ground. Extremely fast and extremely cheap.total station layouts take about 45 minutes to an hour. Only issue is the cost.
Those houses are close! This makes me feel really good about my 1 acre lot! Lol
You guys are ballers. Nice clean work, every step of the way. I like it.
Great job and thanks for all the tips. Loved snap Barr
Thank you!!
That Mt Ellinor hike is STRAIGHT UP. Cant believe the camera made it look so tame. The first half of that climb you’re basically grabbing onto roots and sliding
That's a cool system
Lay out your whole footing before you form anything. Much faster and if you screw up you’re not moving your footing around. Lay it out to outside of wall and set it up off your string. Just as an example, if your footing is 16” wide you’ll set up your footing to 4” outside of the string and 12” to the inside, making your wall centered on your footing.
That is a beautiful area, I envy you guys!
Very informative.
Most carpenter don't know that all the foundation rebar has to be connected to your electrical service entrance as a grounding point.
You guys are a great advertisement for Washington State.
Please dial back a bit though on videos like the hiking one at the end… we don’t want *too* many people moving up here 😀
Good point 😂😂😂👍
Fantastic explanation’s
🙏🙏🙏
Brilliant and incredible insight!!!
Great content.
they need a bluetooth option on the reciever to connect to a portable speaker or radio so you can hear it from a distance
Are you guys looking for hands on the weekends ? I’ll work pretty cheap just so I can learn more
The mountain to left is Mt Baker.
Thanks for the video 👍
Excelente trabajo 👏 👍 💪
so you place the steel on top of the cleats, tie it up, use the spacer etc.. put em on top of the dobies and then take the cleats off, drop the steel, then put the steel back on? why wouldnt you just install them on top of the dobies and tie them together, doing the cleats last? Serious question - this is my first real concrete job im prepping for
That last drone shot...
*adds to watch later*
Keep putting out Awesome content, hello from the UK 👋
Thanks Jack!
I bet it’s gonna be a gable to gable.. with a two dormers😎
Criminally under subscribed channel.
Nice detailed video! Around 8:00 you mentioned finding a problem with your drone. Do you have a software application for your drone data for surveying?
Y’all frame and do footings way different than we do on east coast.
Why do you raise the boards? You could set them up high and then easily grade them with a hammer down.
Cool content guys! I love it! I’d love a camera to follow me when I build. How do I do that?? Is it a app for a iPhone??? You guys get a sub!
I am looking to buy a laser for formwork, build a house etc and want to buy something that can do it all. Is the Stabila LA 180 a better purchase than the Hilti PR 30-HVSG? Thx, just subscribed!
@AwesomeFramers please hold the phone sideways/landscaped). I bet you'll see subscription double in months afterwards.
yeah I know, those are stories for IG and I use them here too.
My pop had his own construction company
Here in Southern California
Pop worked construction his whole life
Pop had a class A engineering contractors license
I've never seen footing board just laid on top of the ground The the way we did footings
Was to dig the whole outline of the house
I think it was a 2ft deep single-story 3 ft deep 2 story or 1 ft deep single-story 2 ft deep 2 story I can't quite remember
It seems like the way they do footings up in the Pacific Northwest is completely different than down here in the south is that because of the earthquake potential for us
Maybe you could explain why they do footings like that up there in a video or something
I don't know why the methods are so different here. All I know is its been common practice for at least 40 years (how long we've been in business) to dig out the foundation, form & pour footings, then walls then backfill around the outside. Our plans are engineered btw.
I'm also a southern CA framer and I was wondering the same thing. It makes sense though that once it gets back filled it's underdround anyways.
@@highdesertjohn we lived in Orange County then moved to Big Bear Lake in 1977 then moved back to Orange County in 1984
I have worked concrete up in so dak and we also dig down and then form with 2x8, I always figured it was a historic thing as we have lots of lumber here and hard rocky ground, also deep footings (48")
Why don't you have orange rebar protection caps earlier? It's making me worried for you when you bend over near them.
I missed something, one minute the rebar is sitting on the cleats, the next it's under them, did you just slide it out and lower it as you were tieing on the dobbies?
So how do you drop the steel into the footing? By untying 1 side of the crossbar?
My thinking is that you could have left the grade at top of footing and excavated trenches saving all the additional excavation and formwork??
We get that a lot but actually it won't save time realistically. When they blow out the hole, they go fast, if you just do the footings they slow down some to be more accurate.
So all things considered, it doesn't actually save us time. The company I work for (@PioneerBuildersInc) has 44 years of job costing. My dad was a finance guy (college degree) first then learned building after coming home from Vietnam. My brother runs the business now and his background is also finance.
@@AwesomeFramers I’ve never formed strip footings for a whole house so don’t have a reference for cost/benefit…… It just seems such a strange method when excavated strip footings are so common here in Australia. It would definitely save on volume of concrete. Thanks very much for all the content, it’s really great to see how things are done in other parts of the world.
I need answer how to break flat ties in formwork? Is there any tool which helps… they are flat snap ties
Why don't you use the layout station for your footers too?
We do.
@@AwesomeFramers got it. didn't see it in the beginning. I guess I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue.
you skipped showing how the rebar got UNDER the spreader bars. Did you unscrew each bar, remove it, then drop the rebar under and then reattach spreader bar?
I was wondering that too
no, you can see it in the video. All the bar is on top of the cleats, then we tie it all and tie the dobbies. Then just walk around and grab the verts and lift up enough to pop the cleats 👍
@@AwesomeFramers I reviewed the video again and still don't see it? at 22:17 the steel is on top of the spreader bars, and then at 22:18 it is all under the spreader bars....
@@hardwareguy1 my bad bro. I must have edited it out. I remember editing it but must have deleted to shorten the video. Basically just grab a vert, lift slightly, move the cleat, drop the bar, set the cleat 👍
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the reply, and the explanation. That makes sense. I (well, my contractor) has just started framing on my new house and wasn't around when they did the footings.
Do the Builder's engineer or superintendent verify the squareness and levelness of the forms, or do they leave it to the inspector to do.......
How long do you think you will be able to work in the field the way you do now? I’m almost 40 work for my self (electrical contractor 10 years). Your job looks so much more physical then electric work, which to me is pretty easy. I think I can make it well past 50 but time will tell.
I think about this all day every day.
I see a chiropractor once a month, mostly as preventative maintenance. I just started seeing a physical therapist for suggestions on stretching and anything that needs correction. Good bill of health, saw him last week, but I definitely need to stretch.
I bought a treadmill and use it every day, sometimes twice. Never running but walking and walking at incline.
Hit the gym twice a week (except when COVID is surging) to train muscle groups.
To answer your question, I hope to go past 50. RUclips and IG, as well as working with some companies like Huber and Strongtie doing hands on demos is part of the plan. That way I'm not bags on every day, but can give the old body a break.
Молодцы!
Good
I guess it varies from state to state, but one thing im having some confusion in is why is the footing just being poured on the actual soil? Here in california we are required to dig at least 18” below ground level, on top of that we needed to form footing ~6 inches on top of soil. Special occasions we had to dig up to 24 inches. I dont understand why its not required in your state? Help!
Yes, it does very by location. First of all, we aren't building footings right on top of the soil. We've excavated down 9' in the front to hard pan and "undisturbed soil". Second, the code and our structural engineer do not require footings to be dug into the dirt because after the foundation is finished, we'll back fill around the perimeter, and a slab will be poured inside. This is a a walk out or daylight basement. Hope that helps.
Hey dude. Are you guys foundation to finish or foundation to dry in?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice
I am a developer in Cambodia. I am very satisfied with the work in your country, please advise, thank you.
lol Krav Mah-graw 🤣 everyone says it like that.
Hey where do you buy your form spacers please send me link
Where do you get your spreader cleats for the footing? I own a foundation company in spokane, Fellows Foundations inc, do you just hammer over the inside tab on the spreader cleat or can you buy them for 1 1/2 lumber?
dont forget your towel & PPE yallz,
i wonder what the overall house design looks like, with this very strange footing.
The guy on the back hoe did a really good job, that looks hard.
Guns carry Chuck Norris for protection.
Chuck has a bear skin rug.It's not dead,just too scared to get up.
Any trick or method to pulling the spreader bars once everything is tied together and hung? Start in a corner?
Next week I'll post the video that I think will answer that and if it doesn't, ask there. I think it'll make more sense then 👍
Can you give me the name of the holder for the rear stills pleas I need to know
Did you look in the video description?
What is the dimensions of these footings? 16x8? 18x10?
Where yall from?
What is the last thing the boogeyman does at night before he goes to sleep? He checks under the bed to make sure Chuck Norris isn't there !
what's the background music?
What is the reason for stepping the footings?
Steps in the footing is general for site elevation changes. Either they have to dig all the dirt out on the top of the hill to match the depth of the bottom of the hill or use steps in the footings to maintain the proper frost footing depth along the hill
chuck norris once ate an entire birthday cake before his friends could tell him there was a stripper inside
30:25 Getting dark. Watch out for Bigfoot.
Shoveling with a hammer is better than hammering with a shovel.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I hear the music start at 21:40, start seeing Tim stripping down, and I have this urge to start finding dollar bills. I'm not sure why.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 I have a PayPal account..........
Anybody look at the wheels on the road and wonder if it was sliding or rolling lol
😂😂17:47
👍😅🍺🍺🍺🍺🍷🍷😎🙏
Who forms up strip footings !?!? 😂
That's how it's done in this region, so thousands of homes. What's wrong with strip footings? Asking for a friend 😂😂😂
They look nice to frame on. Around here it would be perimeter then pier and post if you needed more support
@@AwesomeFramers strip footings are fantastic but if your comparing regions, here they are trenched into the ground and approximately 450mm deep (which I guess would be 1.5 feet in seppo measurements) with caged rio right through.
You're fooling yourself (and that's fine if you're into that line of reasoning) thinking that walking around the footing 3 times just so that you can do repetitive tasks each time around is more efficient. This has been well proven in manufacturing improvement evaluations, not to mention the amount of steps and number of times bending over it would save just to do all the tasks at each station at one time.