Thank you sir. My compressor wouldn’t come on, ran into your video, went straight to Lowe’s and then Tractor Supply, got a new “dewalt” 175 max psi pressure switch, replaced it and my shop is back up and running. You saved my rear. Thank you. (I’ve still yet to here back from manufacture as to what the problem couldve been, ridiculous) Take care! Thank you much!
Good call on powering directly to motor. My compressor stopped too. Nothing when pressure switch is engaged. I tested start/run capacitor s and have power to the motor from the switch, but I think I'm in your boat. I'll have to direct wire tomorrow and see if it turns the motor. If not, I guess I need a new motor. Thanks!
Thanks for putting this video out. Most home shop air compressors use pressure switches similar to yours. I can say it is easy to damage them accidentally. I did not know it would damage the switch but accidentally left the shipping plug in that is in the top of the oil reservoir to keep oil from spilling when turned. It should be replaced with a vented plug that it comes with. That little bit of usage without changing to the vented plug for the crankcase of the compressor somehow will damage the inside of these pressure switches through that plastic return hose. Just an FYI so someone else doesn't do the same thing on a new air compressor.
Wondering how can the crankcase pressure interfere with tank pressure to affect the main switch pressure sensor mechanism? Ring blow-by would make the case pressurize.
The brass POP OFF valve is a compression style.fitting..it needs NO SEALANT OR THREAD TAPE..The reddish color "thread dope" is enough sealant to fo the job..adding thread tape leaves a potential for leak..in other words..you didn't need to put thread tape.on these because they will probably leak in the future..BTW..M NOT BEING CRITICAL OR SMART ASSY OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT..Just spreading my particular knowledge from experience...
You're lucky, my Lowe's 60 gal compressor just blew up with oil blasting all over the garage. That POS always leaked air and oil and couldn't gets above 120 psi. Had no idea it kept on running for so long time, think either overload or low oil tripped it. House could have caught on fire.
if i drilled out the air outlet in the diaphragm bowl to 10mm from 5mm would this affect the switch? The inside outlet in the bowl is half the size to outlet
@@jodaddysworkshop786 yes there is meat on it ,the smaller hole is behind the 1/4" thread of the outlet .....why its stepped down it looks like its ment for seating but imho i dont think need to seat theres enough thread to seal.....anyway i drilled it out and by comparison there's a big difference but in doing this i broke the zinc alloy fake brass 3way relief valve its got me how those just dont explode an theres a fake copper plate alloy tube that goes to.the pressure switch 😂😂😂😂make ya laugh but anyway brass 3way on the way.
I have the Cobalt 26 gallon oilless electric compressor. It seems like mine was doing something similar where it would pump up the pressure when at zero but while using tools if it needed a kick back on it would not. If I were to drain the tank completely the compressor will turn back on and run otherwise if you keep flipping the switch it just sounds like a car trying to start up. Any ideas is this just the same type of repair that you're doing by replacing the switch?
@@CTRadventures IT could be the whole switch but it sounds more like the unloader vavle isnt 'unloading' and the air in the tank is keeping pressure on the pump head. It's a tougher start for the pump if there is pressure still built up on the pump. Before you buy anything though, you could check if the unloader valve is actually your issue or if there is a different, typically more common issue: the one-way check vavle. The 1-way check valve is sitting on top of the tank. It's where the unloader valve and the actual air supply line from the pump connect to the tank. Try running the compressor briefly, let it buid a few pounds of air and turn it off. Pull the power just to be safe and unscrew/unhook the unloader valve fro the one-way check valve. If air comes out of the Check valve that means it has failed and will need to be replaced. From my experience the check valve is usually the issue but not always. The unloader valve can go out as well just not as often. Good Luck
@@ImanAhole I bought a whole new assembly. The only issue I'm facing now is that valve from the original compressor that we think is faulty is at a 90 degree angle and the new part is vertical, so now I gotta see if I can find some copper and form it to fit as it won't reach to to the thread. Or maybe I can put a 90 on the stem of the tank and a 1 or close nipple from the 90 to the switch flipping the assembly vertical
I was just wondering : when you tried to turn it on before the repair, the red switch made a nice solid "click" sound when you rotated it off, but when turning it on, it just sort of seemed to "slide." The new one, I think, made the click sound both off AND on. What I am getting at is this : could it have been that that cheap red plastic switch had rounded out inside a little, so that it wasn't solidly gripping the little white post that it was supposed to turn? I have had that problem with that kind of switch before; the switch just loses its grip on the little post (which usually has one flat edge corresponding to a flat edge in the female hole in the red switch, thus making it grip and not just spin). I hope my question makes sense, and I would tell people to just look at that first - it takes 30 seconds, and if that's it, it's a cheap repair - just get a new red switch! Thanks.
I have a strange request, could you pop off the cover from the capacitors and take a pic of the wiring? I have a very similar model, the capacitor went bad, we took it apart a couple years ago, and I have no clue how to rewire both caps.
Consult your manufacturer's wiring diagram. Usually there's a diagram underneath the capacitor cover but if there isn't any you should definitely find what you need online most likely a pdf user manual. Good luck
I have looked all over the web and can't seem to find put what wire goes were on the capacitors I hate to have to trash it just because I can't get the capacitors back on the motor.
Mine would go to kick on and then hum and try to kick on and blow breaker on motor , drain all the air out and it would run fine and kick off. Replaced switch and was good . This was on a 6 month old DeWalt 60 gallon .
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong?
You may have a check valve failing, usually at the top of the tank. That caused identical symptoms on mine. Replaced the valve, worked fine ever since!
Good video,I have a air compressor fairly new hasn't been use very much at all,but now when it is suppose to shut off after reaching the certain pressure point it doesn't the pressure valve releases,does anyone know what the problem is.Its a craftsman 6 gallon round compressor,does anyone maybe know what the problem is,could it be the pressure switch?
@@jodaddysworkshop786 is the pressure switch easy to replace. I have the same thing happen to my 1 year old 10 gallon 175psi tank, suppose to shut off at a certain pressure and it doesn't. machine is still virtually brand new because i have only used it about 8 times in a year. is it a cheap design or are they built where you have to run them often?
You make a good point. It’s great to have things covered under warranty, but there is a price point where the downtime and red tape just aren’t worth it. Hope they reimburse at least some of the cost.
Lowe's warranty is garbage. Electric range warranty, no fix. New 80V Kobalt chainsaw 6 months after purchase, discontinued and no parts available, WTF. Looks like they don't have parts or provide parts for the Kobalt stuff. Not happy with my 2 year old 60 gal Kobalt compressor, just blew up an hour ago.
I just tried to turn my air compressor on and it didn't react until I realized after 20 minutes "oh wait a minute... its already been filled with air since last month" lol
I'm not an expert on compressors so excuse me for asking this. If you didn't need 175 psi why would you buy one w this capacity? Couldn't you of bought a smaller one and saved a couple hundred bucks? Rather than down grading it and wasting your money? I recently bought a mid size one w 90 psi capacity and quickly realized I need more psi to operate particular tools properly so I'll be needing to buy a bigger one soon only thing is the price jumps dramatically from what I paid for mine.
Here I don't see any big repair there, but I understand..., it's not easy when something go wrong... If someone have and want to solve issues, have to be competent and very careful, before opening (pressure switch) or untighten something! because of electric and preasure-air-mechanical danger...
Hey i have the same air compressor and have had the same problems. Only a guy I had come out to fix it said it was the electric motor capacitors. He took them off to have them tested and now he doesn't want to work on it and I have know idea the wiring on the capacitor. Could you remove the cover on the electric motor and upload a picture of the capacitor wiring. Plz don't get shocked
capacitors just need to be plugged in. Make sure each wire goes to an individual terminal. and make sure to put it back in the holder the correct way so the terminals don't touch the cover.
i did that like 3x on my compressor because the pressure it kicks on is too low. recently i bought a 7 dollar air pressure switch off amazon or ebay. if you do this you install it by tapping into an air pressure line and wiring in the pressure switch in parallel with your current air pressure switch. then see what pressure the compressor kicks in at.
You have dogs ???? How come they haven't helped you in the shop/garage ?? On the open edge of the siding why not take a piece of aluminum L channel cut it to length and just pop rivet it on the tops of the sheeting only. Good luck !
I have the same air compressor. My switch failed after 1 1/2 yrs of very light use. Don't fall for that 3 yr. warrenty crap. I put in a warrenty claim and it was denied. The motor, pressure switch and compressor are considered normal wear items and only have a 1 yr warrenty. So basically the tank is the part covered for 3 yrs..Here is the response I received back from them. July 19, 2021 Client’s Claim #: 3805### Policy #: Insured: Campbell Hausfeld Claimant: Date of Loss/Received: July 14,2021 Our File #: 3805### Dear Mr. , ######## Thank you for your inquiry. Crawford and Company, on behalf of Campbell Hausfeld LLC, has investigated your filed claim regarding Kobalt Air Compressor, Model Number XC802000AJ (the “Product”). The Product’s warranty period is effective on the date of purchase of the Product from Campbell Hausfeld or an authorized Campbell Hausfeld reseller for a period of 3 years. Within the manual the motor is considered a “normal wear item and is not covered after the first year of ownership”. The dated sales you have stated is 2/22/2020 for the Product which starts the warranty coverage. Since you were unable to provide a valid proof of purchase with respect to the Product, the Product’s sales date of 2/22/2020 is considered the beginning of its warranty period. Based on the information from you, the Product incident is outside of the provided warranty period regarding the motor, leaving us unable to assist you with your claim. Sincerely, Bill Porterfield Casualty Adjuster Crawford & Company 1503 LBJ Freeway Suite 600 Dallas TX 75234 Phone#: 817-513-3275 Fax#: 770-723-8855 Email: William_porterfield@us.crawco.com
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thank you sir. My compressor wouldn’t come on, ran into your video, went straight to Lowe’s and then Tractor Supply, got a new “dewalt” 175 max psi pressure switch, replaced it and my shop is back up and running. You saved my rear. Thank you. (I’ve still yet to here back from manufacture as to what the problem couldve been, ridiculous)
Take care! Thank you much!
Good call on powering directly to motor. My compressor stopped too. Nothing when pressure switch is engaged. I tested start/run capacitor s and have power to the motor from the switch, but I think I'm in your boat. I'll have to direct wire tomorrow and see if it turns the motor. If not, I guess I need a new motor. Thanks!
I like these little tidbits of info and how to videos. Well done indeed!
Thanks for putting this video out. Most home shop air compressors use pressure switches similar to yours. I can say it is easy to damage them accidentally. I did not know it would damage the switch but accidentally left the shipping plug in that is in the top of the oil reservoir to keep oil from spilling when turned. It should be replaced with a vented plug that it comes with. That little bit of usage without changing to the vented plug for the crankcase of the compressor somehow will damage the inside of these pressure switches through that plastic return hose. Just an FYI so someone else doesn't do the same thing on a new air compressor.
Wondering how can the crankcase pressure interfere with tank pressure to affect the main switch pressure sensor mechanism? Ring blow-by would make the case pressurize.
The brass POP OFF valve is a compression style.fitting..it needs NO SEALANT OR THREAD TAPE..The reddish color "thread dope" is enough sealant to fo the job..adding thread tape leaves a potential for leak..in other words..you didn't need to put thread tape.on these because they will probably leak in the future..BTW..M NOT BEING CRITICAL OR SMART ASSY OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT..Just spreading my particular knowledge from experience...
You're lucky, my Lowe's 60 gal compressor just blew up with oil blasting all over the garage. That POS always leaked air and oil and couldn't gets above 120 psi. Had no idea it kept on running for so long time, think either overload or low oil tripped it. House could have caught on fire.
Thanks for posting this. Is the switch still holding up? Not great reviews on Tractor Supply, a few said it crapped out pretty fast.
It seems to be working fine.
In many cases true one doesn't need the 175psi...but it does give you more run time for your tools
Thanks for the video! I have to do this on Monday as my switch just died after 11 years
if i drilled out the air outlet in the diaphragm bowl to 10mm from 5mm would this affect the switch? The inside outlet in the bowl is half the size to outlet
I don't know for sure. Is there enough wall thickness?
@@jodaddysworkshop786 yes there is meat on it ,the smaller hole is behind the 1/4" thread of the outlet .....why its stepped down it looks like its ment for seating but imho i dont think need to seat theres enough thread to seal.....anyway i drilled it out and by comparison there's a big difference but in doing this i broke the zinc alloy fake brass 3way relief valve its got me how those just dont explode an theres a fake copper plate alloy tube that goes to.the pressure switch 😂😂😂😂make ya laugh but anyway brass 3way on the way.
When it wasn’t working did you still have power to the motor?
I don’t know for sure, but I don’t think it works that way.
did you apply power straight to the motor to make sure the contactactor was the problem?
I did.
what pressure switch did you buy. the kobalt i'm working on has a switch part number CW219300AV
I thought I showed the part number.
I have the Cobalt 26 gallon oilless electric compressor. It seems like mine was doing something similar where it would pump up the pressure when at zero but while using tools if it needed a kick back on it would not. If I were to drain the tank completely the compressor will turn back on and run otherwise if you keep flipping the switch it just sounds like a car trying to start up. Any ideas is this just the same type of repair that you're doing by replacing the switch?
Sounds like a faulty switch to me.
@@jodaddysworkshop786 copy that I'll check it out I think on RUclips it's only going to cost me $15 to try that
@@CTRadventures IT could be the whole switch but it sounds more like the unloader vavle isnt 'unloading' and the air in the tank is keeping pressure on the pump head. It's a tougher start for the pump if there is pressure still built up on the pump. Before you buy anything though, you could check if the unloader valve is actually your issue or if there is a different, typically more common issue: the one-way check vavle. The 1-way check valve is sitting on top of the tank. It's where the unloader valve and the actual air supply line from the pump connect to the tank. Try running the compressor briefly, let it buid a few pounds of air and turn it off. Pull the power just to be safe and unscrew/unhook the unloader valve fro the one-way check valve. If air comes out of the Check valve that means it has failed and will need to be replaced. From my experience the check valve is usually the issue but not always. The unloader valve can go out as well just not as often. Good Luck
@@ImanAhole I bought a whole new assembly. The only issue I'm facing now is that valve from the original compressor that we think is faulty is at a 90 degree angle and the new part is vertical, so now I gotta see if I can find some copper and form it to fit as it won't reach to to the thread. Or maybe I can put a 90 on the stem of the tank and a 1 or close nipple from the 90 to the switch flipping the assembly vertical
Well that wasn't it, here's what it's doing
ruclips.net/user/shortsz4u2kN1AmDs?feature=share3
Did you get reimbursed? Looked for follow-up video.
did not.
My switch crapped out recently and had to do the same thing. 👍👍
Very helpful!! Thank you Sir!!
I was just wondering : when you tried to turn it on before the repair, the red switch made a nice solid "click" sound when you rotated it off, but when turning it on, it just sort of seemed to "slide." The new one, I think, made the click sound both off AND on. What I am getting at is this : could it have been that that cheap red plastic switch had rounded out inside a little, so that it wasn't solidly gripping the little white post that it was supposed to turn? I have had that problem with that kind of switch before; the switch just loses its grip on the little post (which usually has one flat edge corresponding to a flat edge in the female hole in the red switch, thus making it grip and not just spin). I hope my question makes sense, and I would tell people to just look at that first - it takes 30 seconds, and if that's it, it's a cheap repair - just get a new red switch! Thanks.
I don't think so, it looks like Jo leaves his compressor on 24/7 but that's only an assumption. Good diagnosis though
I totally agree…why didn’t you fault the switch itself? They’re a really simple device..🙄
Great video! What’s the part number on the switch?
Did you ever investigate the bad switch taking it apart? What could have failed?
I did not.
I have a strange request, could you pop off the cover from the capacitors and take a pic of the wiring? I have a very similar model, the capacitor went bad, we took it apart a couple years ago, and I have no clue how to rewire both caps.
Consult your manufacturer's wiring diagram. Usually there's a diagram underneath the capacitor cover but if there isn't any you should definitely find what you need online most likely a pdf user manual. Good luck
I have looked all over the web and can't seem to find put what wire goes were on the capacitors I hate to have to trash it just because I can't get the capacitors back on the motor.
how do you know it has a bad cap?
Good video , I replaced mine a few weeks back
Mine would go to kick on and then hum and try to kick on and blow breaker on motor , drain all the air out and it would run fine and kick off. Replaced switch and was good . This was on a 6 month old DeWalt 60 gallon .
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong?
Sounds like the pressure switch is failing.
You may have a check valve failing, usually at the top of the tank. That caused identical symptoms on mine. Replaced the valve, worked fine ever since!
Today mine did the same thing. Done the test with the motor and my switch was bad. Not bad for a 10 year old one
Good vid. Anyone on here ever just repair the switch as opposed to buying another?
Good video,I have a air compressor fairly new hasn't been use very much at all,but now when it is suppose to shut off after reaching the certain pressure point it doesn't the pressure valve releases,does anyone know what the problem is.Its a craftsman 6 gallon round compressor,does anyone maybe know what the problem is,could it be the pressure switch?
Pressure switch.
@@jodaddysworkshop786 is the pressure switch easy to replace. I have the same thing happen to my 1 year old 10 gallon 175psi tank, suppose to shut off at a certain pressure and it doesn't. machine is still virtually brand new because i have only used it about 8 times in a year. is it a cheap design or are they built where you have to run them often?
You make a good point. It’s great to have things covered under warranty, but there is a price point where the downtime and red tape just aren’t worth it. Hope they reimburse at least some of the cost.
Lowe's warranty is garbage. Electric range warranty, no fix. New 80V Kobalt chainsaw 6 months after purchase, discontinued and no parts available, WTF. Looks like they don't have parts or provide parts for the Kobalt stuff. Not happy with my 2 year old 60 gal Kobalt compressor, just blew up an hour ago.
They recommend not using Teflon tape because pieces can break off and damage your compressor
What's the part number please
I thought I showed it in the video.
It is shown at the 7:05 mark on the video
Great video
I just tried to turn my air compressor on and it didn't react until I realized after 20 minutes "oh wait a minute... its already been filled with air since last month" lol
😂
I'm not an expert on compressors so excuse me for asking this. If you didn't need 175 psi why would you buy one w this capacity? Couldn't you of bought a smaller one and saved a couple hundred bucks? Rather than down grading it and wasting your money? I recently bought a mid size one w 90 psi capacity and quickly realized I need more psi to operate particular tools properly so I'll be needing to buy a bigger one soon only thing is the price jumps dramatically from what I paid for mine.
You're right, I really didn't need one this big.
American guy syndrome, buy bigger than ya need. NEED- Toyota to haul plywood...BUYS-3500 Dually pickup...in case he wants to pull a 20,000 lb RV
A new switch is like $30 U.S. Dollars.
Here I don't see any big repair there, but I understand..., it's not easy when something go wrong... If someone have and want to solve issues, have to be competent and very careful, before opening (pressure switch) or untighten something! because of electric and preasure-air-mechanical danger...
Hey i have the same air compressor and have had the same problems. Only a guy I had come out to fix it said it was the electric motor capacitors. He took them off to have them tested and now he doesn't want to work on it and I have know idea the wiring on the capacitor. Could you remove the cover on the electric motor and upload a picture of the capacitor wiring. Plz don't get shocked
capacitors just need to be plugged in. Make sure each wire goes to an individual terminal. and make sure to put it back in the holder the correct way so the terminals don't touch the cover.
...of course, make sure to get the correct size replacement. Go to Grainger and they will have what you need.
No Teflon tape
i did that like 3x on my compressor because the pressure it kicks on is too low. recently i bought a 7 dollar air pressure switch off amazon or ebay. if you do this you install it by tapping into an air pressure line and wiring in the pressure switch in parallel with your current air pressure switch. then see what pressure the compressor kicks in at.
You went with a 155 psi switch instead of 175? That's a downgrade.
hi barry well dun
Describe all the parts of dental compressor in detail, practically..
You have dogs ????
How come they haven't helped you in the shop/garage ??
On the open edge of the siding why not take a piece of aluminum L channel cut it to length and just pop rivet it on the tops of the sheeting only. Good luck !
thanks pal
I have to the same, and replement the swith,
JOB well Done
I have the same air compressor. My switch failed after 1 1/2 yrs of very light use. Don't fall for that 3 yr. warrenty crap. I put in a warrenty claim and it was denied. The motor, pressure switch and compressor are considered normal wear items and only have a 1 yr warrenty. So basically the tank is the part covered for 3 yrs..Here is the response I received back from them.
July 19, 2021
Client’s Claim #: 3805###
Policy #:
Insured: Campbell Hausfeld
Claimant:
Date of Loss/Received: July 14,2021
Our File #: 3805###
Dear Mr. , ########
Thank you for your inquiry. Crawford and Company, on behalf of Campbell Hausfeld LLC, has investigated your filed claim regarding Kobalt Air Compressor, Model Number XC802000AJ (the “Product”).
The Product’s warranty period is effective on the date of purchase of the Product from Campbell Hausfeld or an authorized Campbell Hausfeld reseller for a period of 3 years. Within the manual the motor is considered a “normal wear item and is not covered after the first year of ownership”. The dated sales you have stated is 2/22/2020 for the Product which starts the warranty coverage.
Since you were unable to provide a valid proof of purchase with respect to the Product, the Product’s sales date of 2/22/2020 is considered the beginning of its warranty period. Based on the information from you, the Product incident is outside of the provided warranty period regarding the motor, leaving us unable to assist you with your claim.
Sincerely,
Bill Porterfield Casualty Adjuster
Crawford & Company
1503 LBJ Freeway Suite 600
Dallas TX 75234
Phone#: 817-513-3275
Fax#: 770-723-8855
Email: William_porterfield@us.crawco.com