thanks for digging deeper. I took apart a Harbor Freight model some time ago that actually had multiple Reed valves one of them was defunct hence less compression. I wound up parting it out and saving the pieces.
i have a husky 4gal oilless that isnt building past 50 psi. ive got some gasket material from autozone and made a all new gaskets for like 30¢, problem persists, and the compressor head is getting stupid hot after a minute of running. the rest of the tank is fine, it was always a little small for me. im in the same problem you are, through parts at it vs spend 150 for a new 8 gallon compressors that should be quieter too. im fairly certain mine is the forst or second year of that genertaion of husky compressor because a lot of videos of them online look different (more user friendly when it comes to replacing belts) than mine.
Working on the Husky label version of the same unit I found multiple problems. The first was that the exhaust tube had failed and was split in the bent angle of the tube. Motor mount loose and bracket was sheared allowing excess vibration. So on this unit definitely visually inspect everything before you order your parts.
I had a oilless design husky and I noticed the compressor was louder and started running a lot without shutting off in a reasonable time. I found the main pressure copper line had a crack so I made a new one and fixed it.
id try just replacing the piston ring if its removable and running a hone down the cylinder if you own one.. wont be perfect but if you can get 100psi out of it just adjust the switch so it shuts down at that psi rather than running coniniously trying to reach 135psi i wouldnt worry about the motor burning up im sure if it made it through that long run session its in good shape, new compressors arent that expensive and youll definitely need one eventually but repairing things is alot more satisfying than just replacing them if you do get a new compressor id reccomend going for a lower end on that runs on 220v theyre alot more robust
Nine and a half times out of ten this is a reed valve or a valve gasket issue. As it is inside the valve cover there are no other indicators such as fluid or air leakage. A reed valve will allow compressor to fill anywhere from 30ish to 80ish psi. Great diagnostics video btw. Kind regards V
i have a 60 gallon air compressor. husky pro built by cambell hausfeld. it has a full sized motor and a oil lubbed cast iron pump. its belt driven. its been running since 2007 with no problems, but it is not used daily. it has been ran hard more then once. when i replace it someday, i would like a 80 gallon with a bigger pump....... not that this has been a bad unit. question, are the cast iron belt driven pumps built the same way, with a single teflon ring?
Splits in the exhaust tube are hard to identify because the cooling fan is blowing in the same location. When the tube heats up the split opens but it can be very hard to see. Remove the tube inspect carefully.
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong?
Leaking air at the shut off switch and hard starting could be capacitors weak or the one way tank valve is not completely sealed and keeping head pressure too high or the switch cut off pressure release is stuck close or the pin is shorter. The cut in circuit is doesn't sense tank pressure might mean worn or broke plastic pieces in the switch. Check pitted contacts.
Mine is shutting down at 50 lbs. I reset my internal breaker and it works a little bit more. Have to do this about 4 times. Any one know where the internal breaker is on this thing ?
If you're going to throw it away anyway, then you gotta take a shot at repairing it without ordering a new piston and cylinder. You're good at diagnosis ... show us how good you are at repairs.
anyone know where to get air compressor parts? I came across a free rockworth oiled maybe a 50-60 gallon. Definitely need the pressure switch main assembly which is missing and possibly a hard pump or a motor. I need to find a way to check the compression and a way to hook up the electric motor to test it.
You should always turn the air compressor off yourself when you're not using it. Maybe even plug the compressor into a timer and set the timer for the approximate time you will need it.
Had same compressor for 12 years. My connecting rod broke after the hold down strap cracked and let go and the other bolts fell out...with how thin the tank is, I would say you got your money's worth and move on to a new better unit like I did.
I've seen people make a new piston ring from a side of plastic engine oil container. Just cut a round piece from the side and use a hot air gun to form it to shape
At that age something else could take a dump at any time. Unless you desperately need a compressor and can only manage $65, I'd use the tank as air storage for a new compressor. Also keep the motor around the shop, just in case you need a motor. Same with the pulleys.
I like the criticize oil-free air compressors as much as the next guy, but this one did last 12 years of farm use on the original parts. That's not too bad.
thanks for digging deeper. I took apart a Harbor Freight model some time ago that actually had multiple Reed valves one of them was defunct hence less compression. I wound up parting it out and saving the pieces.
I think everyone would like to see you fix it
I decided to try to fix it. I just posted a new video with the results.
We’re can get a new piston
@@ToolTeardownslink to that new video
I have the problem on the compressor,any suggestion about a part number and where to order ?
i have a husky 4gal oilless that isnt building past 50 psi. ive got some gasket material from autozone and made a all new gaskets for like 30¢, problem persists, and the compressor head is getting stupid hot after a minute of running. the rest of the tank is fine, it was always a little small for me. im in the same problem you are, through parts at it vs spend 150 for a new 8 gallon compressors that should be quieter too. im fairly certain mine is the forst or second year of that genertaion of husky compressor because a lot of videos of them online look different (more user friendly when it comes to replacing belts) than mine.
Working on the Husky label version of the same unit I found multiple problems.
The first was that the exhaust tube had failed and was split in the bent angle of the tube. Motor mount loose and bracket was sheared allowing excess vibration.
So on this unit definitely visually inspect everything before you order your parts.
Thanks for placing video , I would like you to fix, so I can keep leaning. Maybe parts are now lower price?
Would it be possible for you to manufacture a ring for the piston and hone the sleeve out?
I had a oilless design husky and I noticed the compressor was louder and started running a lot without shutting off in a reasonable time. I found the main pressure copper line had a crack so I made a new one and fixed it.
Exactly. Nice
Anyone have a link to that compressor piston kit and gaskets
Thank you Sir I truly appreciate it 🙏 and really want to thank you 😊
id try just replacing the piston ring if its removable and running a hone down the cylinder if you own one.. wont be perfect but if you can get 100psi out of it just adjust the switch so it shuts down at that psi rather than running coniniously trying to reach 135psi
i wouldnt worry about the motor burning up im sure if it made it through that long run session its in good shape, new compressors arent that expensive and youll definitely need one eventually but repairing things is alot more satisfying than just replacing them
if you do get a new compressor id reccomend going for a lower end on that runs on 220v theyre alot more robust
Nine and a half times out of ten this is a reed valve or a valve gasket issue. As it is inside the valve cover there are no other indicators such as fluid or air leakage. A reed valve will allow compressor to fill anywhere from 30ish to 80ish psi. Great diagnostics video btw. Kind regards V
Bro please tell me what type of gasket to be used in compressed air line whether metallic, rubber or any other type
I have a husky c320 twin piston , one sucks other blows air out , Reed’s looks great any idea what to do
My compressor runs, builds pressure but turns off. I have to wait a few minutes, unplug then reconnect for it to start. What can that be?
i have a 60 gallon air compressor. husky pro built by cambell hausfeld. it has a full sized motor and a oil lubbed cast iron pump. its belt driven. its been running since 2007 with no problems, but it is not used daily. it has been ran hard more then once. when i replace it someday, i would like a 80 gallon with a bigger pump....... not that this has been a bad unit.
question, are the cast iron belt driven pumps built the same way, with a single teflon ring?
I believe oil-lubed compressors use a piston and ring set up much closer to what auto engines use.
@@ToolTeardowns im guessing its far more robust. something that moves fast and generates heat but does not use lubrication is an all out bad idea.
@@ToolTeardowns my compressor is 12 years old and still performs very well.
Ok.. Why am i not getting any air coming out once hose is connected. I have pressure.. Just no air coming out.
My compressor is not makin air at all can it be the same problem?
Splits in the exhaust tube are hard to identify because the cooling fan is blowing in the same location. When the tube heats up the split opens but it can be very hard to see. Remove the tube inspect carefully.
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong?
Mine does the same thing. Did you figure it out?
Leaking air at the shut off switch and hard starting could be capacitors weak or the one way tank valve is not completely sealed and keeping head pressure too high or the switch cut off pressure release is stuck close or the pin is shorter. The cut in circuit is doesn't sense tank pressure might mean worn or broke plastic pieces in the switch. Check pitted contacts.
So oilled air compressor is still the best
Mine is shutting down at 50 lbs. I reset my internal breaker and it works a little bit more. Have to do this about 4 times. Any one know where the internal breaker is on this thing ?
If you're going to throw it away anyway, then you gotta take a shot at repairing it without ordering a new piston and cylinder. You're good at diagnosis ... show us how good you are at repairs.
Good info
Thanks for doing this video for us.
You’re welcome. Thanks to everyone who made suggestions on what to do.
The ring comes off?? $13 part
anyone know where to get air compressor parts? I came across a free rockworth oiled maybe a 50-60 gallon. Definitely need the pressure switch main assembly which is missing and possibly a hard pump or a motor. I need to find a way to check the compression and a way to hook up the electric motor to test it.
Tried everything no leaks and air going in tank but can’t. Build pressure what in the world is up
You should always turn the air compressor off yourself when you're not using it.
Maybe even plug the compressor into a timer and set the timer for the approximate time you will need it.
Had same compressor for 12 years. My connecting rod broke after the hold down strap cracked and let go and the other bolts fell out...with how thin the tank is, I would say you got your money's worth and move on to a new better unit like I did.
I'm definitely planning on stepping up in quality. Hopefully that will happen.
Mine instantly looses most the pressure when I crack open my air chuck
This is how im gonna fix my CambellHouseField air compressor lmao
Hone the cylinder and get oversized piston ring.
I've seen people make a new piston ring from a side of plastic engine oil container. Just cut a round piece from the side and use a hot air gun to form it to shape
ruclips.net/video/A51O51uQPUc/видео.html
description is in russian but you should get the idea
Fix it its still good
At that age something else could take a dump at any time. Unless you desperately need a compressor and can only manage $65, I'd use the tank as air storage for a new compressor. Also keep the motor around the shop, just in case you need a motor. Same with the pulleys.
Don’t fix it buy a new air compressor and connect the old air compressor tank the blue one with the new one giving you more storage for air👍🏻👏🛠🔩⚙️
Soapy water finds air leaks.
Fix it
I'd get a new compressor and never buy another oil-less design. Its just a bad idea i think.
My next one will definitely be oil lubricated.
I have a oil-less and it sucks and it’s really loud but it’s held up for 15 years. I’d really like to upgrade to a larger oiled design.
Here's a video from the 3 days ago for the same issue. ruclips.net/video/VDRkWIGgh8k/видео.html
A new 21 gal. 2.5 HP 125 PSI Cast Iron Vertical Air Compressor Only: $169.99
at Harbor Freight Tools store if there one by you.
trash it get a decent compressor
I like the criticize oil-free air compressors as much as the next guy, but this one did last 12 years of farm use on the original parts. That's not too bad.