How To Test A Check Valve (One-way Valve) On An Air Compressor
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- This important video shows you how to test the tank Check Valve (or One-Way Valve, Non-Return Valve, etc.) on an Air Compressor. Check Valves vary in size and appearance but are always installed in the main inlet of the Tank. If your Bleeder Valve on your Pressure Switch leaks when the unit shuts off, replace this part instead! To purchase a replacement Check Valve, click the link below. aircompressorpartsonline.com/...
Хобби
Huge thanks from me, mate. My compressor was leaking badly and I was ready to buy the switch assembly. Stumbled across this video somehow and turns out it WAS the check valve, gave it a clean and no more leaking! I owe you a beer!
We greatly appreciate the compliment and I'm glad to hear this video helped! I'd certainly like to toast you with a beer so I'll (virtually) take you up on that offer. Cheers!
Now I understand why my new Omega air compressor was reaching the 135 psi cut-out max pressure and then, the pressure would slowly fall down to 130 psi after a few seconds from the unloader. I learned something new today ! Great video Thank You!
I bought the switch, only to have it leak at the unloader valve (again). If only I had of researched it first and seen your video! Very helpful.
Great demo- very much appreciate the info! Going to take it apart, and see if I can clean it out. If not, I'll get one from you!
First class explanation of the principal, and the symptoms of failure.
Thumbs up from me.
Thank you!
Awesome video. Just installed my "new" (never run) 4 year old compressor and it leaked right away from the breeder valve. Watched this video and was able to remove the check valve, and sure enough, there was some debris holding it open. Cleaned it up and it works great. No need for new parts this time, but when I do need them, ACPO will be my first stop for sure. Cheers and thanks again for such great videos.
Wow, thank you for the positive comments! That's what these videos are designed to do, and it's great to know that it helped you. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video and saving me some cash. Cheers.
Excellent explanation. Thanks!
great information on the operation of the valve
Thank you for the very well put, informative video!
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Thank You it worked and was so easy!
That's great to hear, and thanks for the comment Mike!
Always informative.
nice vid...i just learned something new
Best regards from Ecuador
I was watching your videos on bostitch oilless compressor maintenance,
Ecuador does not have spare parts and I have to import from the US to repair my Bostitch Cap2000p 1.5hp 135psi 6gallon compressor.
I require your help from online stores to buy spare parts.
He was grateful to everyone for their recommendation
Excellent explanation, thank you very much.
Thank you for the watch and compliment, Alastair!
Wow I dont not know a that info. I have a compressor that leaks after it fills the tank and it does leak up near the shut off switch. I was assuming it was a bad gasket but I think I will try the check valve first. Glad I watched this video now. Thank you for the great info!!
Rick - Athens, Texas
Thanks for the compliment Rick! We appreciate the watch.
just took off the nut that has the spring and plug on it and found crud and bits of plastic on the plug. Back in business. Thanks for the video
We're glad to help you out Ron, thanks for the watch!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline hi i got similar problems with mine, it doesnot fill in the tank because it runs through the small pipe to the pressure switch, i have replace it, clean and machine the valve seat , still not good. Although there is plenty pressure out of the cylinder head. its a Fini 25l compressor, i wonder what else could be wrong there...thanks
@@alfro04 Thanks for the question! If the unit runs and you do have pressure, but the tank isn't being filled, it could be a check valve problem, yes. There is nothing in between the tank and the pump discharge other than the tube and the check valve. The check valve could have debris stuck inside of it, hampering airflow. I would remove it and clean it and if that doesn't work, I'd replace the check valve as that should take care of the problem.
Thanks my guy. Great radio voice bud.
Many thanks for the watch and for the compliment! I've heard that quite a bit in my life. I guess I need to change my line of work...
Ya
Thanks for the heads up about the check valve. I'd replaced the valve gasket (as I've done previously) but this time I kept getting an air leak. I was about to buy a replacement pump assembly, but checked out the check valve and there was a bit of paper gasket material caught in there. Simple fix and no leaks. You saved me $299.
thank you for the explanation. you are a great youtuber. much more than i can say for 98% of the other try hards.
That's a great compliment, thank you!
Got same problem right now so will clean it and see the result otherwise will buy a new check valve than to get a new pressure switch thanks so much
Thank you Sir! Very helpful.
Thank you so much. I changed everything else and I thing this is it.
Excellent video
thank you, very useful.
THANKS, MAN solved my problem. Problem : Compressor builds up normally, turns off and blows big time from pressure / electrical switch ... But as you said check valve had rust particles fouling the seat . So to do the job I dropped the pressure in tank removed the section of check valve that was obviously the plug and cleaned it.
That's great! That's a very common problem, and it's good to know this video helped you out. Thanks for watching!
Nice post thanks 👍
Got a 30 year old 30 gallon compressor. Slowly fills to 110lbs but hovers at 80lbs. Replaced the gasket on the crankshaft. replaced the air valve assembly. I hear no leaks but it does drain the air out overnight so its leaking somewhere. Could the slow fill be caused by the check valve? 4hp motor runs great. Thanks in advance.
Mine has this exact issue!! Thank you!
We're glad this video helped!
Thank you. You're awesome.
We appreciate the compliment! Thanks for watching.
What's the cause of a compressor that fills up with air properly but when use the air doesn't kick back on to re-fill?
How are you, sir, I have an Italian compressor 100 liters, the check valve, the operating switch, the winding, the gasket and the condenser have been changed, and everything is fine, it works well and stops at 6 bar.
I have a husky 412 270 vlh1582609 01 wich don't have a unloader valve to unload pressure from piston after shut off. What will release the pressure from back of the piston on this model? My compressor runs fine until it has to cycle or restart after I use some air from tank, it does the hmmmm sound few times but it won't start if I empty the tank it does start right away and fill tank with out any problem until it has to cycle again. I bought the pressure switch because I though it was equipped with the unloader valve but it is not and also was stoping at 140 psi when my compressor should stop at 155 psi, any way found out that the shut off at 140 psi was a bad gauge because even after replacing the pressure switch still was stoping at 140 psi, I did replace the pressure gauge and now stops at 155 psi like it is suppose to do. Now I still have this problem that it won't restart as I use air, just do the hmmm sound until I empty tank and fill the tank again. What will cause the pressure on the piston after shut off if this model is not equipped with unloader valve. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated it. Check Valve will be the problem?
Thanks for the video. So my comp is leaking air from top of engine. Took it apart and I see a tiny pin hole where air is escaping. After watching your video, I’m thinking that pin hole is there by design????? My valve may be bad and the air escapes through that hole? Thanks for any advice?
I have a double piston compressor, and it's won't make pressure more then 3 bar/40 psi. I removed the head and check the pistons, both pistons and both cylinders are in excellent condition. I did not found any single scratch on the cylinder walls. I have no idea how to check the valve plate or any other issue to solve this problem. please assist
thanks in advance.
Can put pressure on compressor head and will try to start , strain and pop breaker in motor.
Thanks for the comment! There's a very good chance your in-tank check valve is defective and/or clogged. If the check valve is stuck closed, you will get a lot of back pressure on the pump head and it will trip the breaker. I would try to clean the check valve first and if that doesn't fix it, replace the check valve.
Hi There,
the hose was originally nylon and was replaced with the same. The hose is popping off the Check valve side which has a barb, again original to the compressor. Never an issue with the 8+ yrs. I've owned it just recently the issue has surfaced.
+Ian Mac Vittie Well, what comes to mind first is that you're getting back-pressure from the tank. I know you said you just replaced the check valve but the most common and obvious cause of this would be back pressure. Try this: put about 50 PSI or so in the tank, shut the unit off manually, then remove the small tube from the check valve. Does the tank hold air or does it blow air out of the check valve when you remove the tube? If the tank holds air, your check valve is certainly good.
The next step would be to get rid of that hose barb fitting (which is probably an 1/8" MPT x 1/4" barb) and just install a standard 1/4" male compression fitting. Use a compression nut, ferrule and tubing insert and you'll have a much better connection.
Can you check the check valve by loosening the connection to the head at the head?
Btw, I have one that is leaking at the regulator valve itself. The oring is gone now.
Is this an indication the check valve has failed?
Can it cause it to not build any pressure whatsoever even after replacing reed valves
Would I be able to hear the leak? My unit (i think its the same as you show here, it's a bostich) will hold for the time I use it but if i keep it off, its probably empty by the next day. Any ideas?
Typically you'd be able to hear the leak, yes, but if it takes nearly a day for the tank to empty, it'll be a small leak and may not be able to detect it by ear.
The easiest thing to do is spray soapy water on every hose and fitting, it'll bubble when sprayed on the location of the leak. Spray it on the transfer tube where it goes into the pump head, check valve, unloader tube, pressure switch, every location air could possibly escape from. It sounds like a defective check valve, though.
My compressor won't shut off. Replaced pressure switch and still won't shut off on its own and does reach pressure shut off pressure.
Mine shuts off via the reset switch on the unit before it get ups to pressure. It was fine then the issue started out of nowhere. No extension cord, clean filter and capacitor looks fine but not tested. Help Please
Would a malfunctioning check valve cause air to bleed back into the cylinder head and prevent the piston from compressing, thereby tripping the breaker when it tries to restart? I've got a small Rolair with this problem.
Absolutely. A clogged or malfunctioning check valve can certainly cause back-pressure to the pump head, thereby making the motor work against that pressure and in all likelihood will trip the motor reset and/or breaker.
Would that cause excessive pressure and in turn trip a breaker because of excess current draw trying to spin the compressor with the added pressure?
Yes, this would cause back-pressure on your pump not allowing the motor to get a head start prior to pumping. Please let us know if there is anything else we can assist with!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline so could it fail where not leaking but causing excessive pressure at pump? Or could it fail backwards as in stuck closed from pump? Seems like no but I've replaced capacitor and pump and still won't run after fill. Emptied tank and last time still wouldn't run. This time does run when tank empty, but if I stop at 30psi and restart won't run. Pump tries but wont run after half second and amps peak so shutoff before trips breaker. Have new switch but dont think thats it. Brand new Stealth 20gal from TSC. Others have had same issue.
I could not find that same check valve anyway. Why is that check valve in the same order so hard to find?
The actual check valve on the displayed compressor is located by unscrewing that largest cover nut on the 3 way. Same unit on the Workzone 50 litre 3 hip. Leaking at the pressure switch when turned off. Checked it, spring and soft shaped seating pad nothing untoward reassembled and the problem remains.
Thanks for the question William. If the unit leaks at all when the unit shuts off, the check valve is certainly the culprit, as that's the only way air can back-feed from the tank. The valve may be intermittently sealing. In my opinion, I'd still replace it if the unit leaks when it's shut off.
This is the problem I'm having with my Craftsman upright 919.165230. Runs till it shuts off and the air leaks right at exactly the area around the downloader you pointed to. Would this also be why the air blows out of the hose connection when the hose is off or would that be a regulator problem? Thanks for the help
You MAY have a separate problem there, actually, if you are referring to the main air hose going to your tool. Even if air does leak back through the pressure switch and through your Regulator (which of course connects to it) there should be no air leaking out of the air Regulator or the air hose. If this is the case then most likely your Regulator diaphragm is damaged or you have debris inside the Regulator which is causing air to leak. Typically, all of the air will bypass out of the unloader valve on the pressure switch. A new check valve would do it!
Air Compressor Parts Online Changed the check valve and it no longer leaks out around the switch. It works fine as long as the hose is attached. As soon as I detach the hose all the air in the tank comes out from the end of the hose connector. Regulator?
Punxsyjumper I would say so, yes. As long as the check valve is working properly by holding the air in the tank, any other leak would be caused by something else, and a defective regulator can do it. Most likely you have debris or junk inside of it, but the diaphragm itself could be damaged, allowing air to escape through it.
As far as removing/replacing that 90 degree style valve, how are you getting that off without mangling the valve? I had one recently that I couldn't get a decent wrench on it, and ended up buggering up the assembly pretty bad. What do you use to get it off?
Flare nut wrench, ring spanner with a small diameter opening.
Pay attention lol if its messing it up don't keep going the same way try another method
My air compressor probably have a defective check valve. It fill air up to 50psi then shut off. I ask the paint forum but no one seem to answer. This video help though, probably replace it and I be back to spraying paint with my paint gun.
Thanks for the comments! Your Check Valve very well may be need to be replaced. The tell-tale sign of a bad check valve is if, when your compressor shuts down, it leaks constantly and bleeds the tank empty. Usually the leak will occur at the small bleeder valve connected to your pressure switch. What is the maximum PSI your compressor puts out? You said you're only getting 50 PSI, then it shuts off...this seems more like a Pressure Switch problem. The Switch controls the cut-off pressure, so if your unit is supposed to shut off at 120 PSI but it's cutting off at 50 PSI instead, the Pressure Switch is probably defective and needs to be replaced.
Air Compressor Parts Online my air compressor should go up to 150 psi, 5.5 hp 30 gallon Craftman. I replaced the water release valve, the safety release valve, add a airline ball valve and I put teflon around the leaking hose connector. It does goes up 120psi now. The water valve release more air and water then the old one when release. At least its better then before I have to turn it three time before i get enough air. Probably not my check valve but I replace those other thing.
That's better! Correct, it sounds like a different problem entirely. Now that the compressor turns off at the PSI it's supposed to (or close to it), make sure the unit doesn't leak down after it shuts off. If you notice that it does, I'd then replace the pressure switch. Thanks for the questions!
specially it's not building more pressure when it's start getting hot. also from the suction side it's throwing air out instead of suction.
+Javaid Iqbal I would say with almost 100% certainty that your Reed Valves in the pump need to be replaced. Defective Valves are almost always why you'll get air coming OUT of the intake instead of sucking it IN. I would bet the exhaust valves are stuck/rusted and simply not opening and closing as they should. I would recommend replacing the Valves (or Valve Plate Assy if it's sold that way) and Gaskets.
I have a Porter Cable compressor that uses check valve D27022. What is the best way of attempting to clean this valve? I can draw air from either end currently and would like to try cleaning before replacing the valve.
Thanks for the questions! It really depends on what is clogging the check valve.
I would try mild parts cleaner, but nothing any stronger than that. Nothing that will eat plastic, basically.
I'm not sure if it has a retaining clip or not so you may have to remove that first. Just don't lose it as it's easy to do. I hope this helps!
Hey I have a 480c comp for my air bags in my car just yesterday 1 of my compressors is not turning on and my fuse was blown. I replaced it with a new fuse and straight away it blew. My
Compressors are not even a year old could it be the check valve? Because when I live the car sitting over night I notice there is not air in the tank and the rear or my car has droped.
+Gupz Lagah I'm not terribly familiar with this application, but yes I'd say it's a check valve problem certainly. No matter what type of compressor is used for the application, if there is an air reservoir (tank) present, and if it doesn't hold air overnight, then your check valve is being left open and air is back-feeding through it so it's most likely defective. Hope this helps!
gud one
Hey man my compressor keeps blowing de nylon line when charging do you know what is ??
i have an emglo am78hcv4. Replaced valves, all gaskets. check valve, intake filter,transfer tube and oil. After i started it post rebuild, it worked for two fill cycles and then the check valve failed to close. Tested the valve and found it not closing. This has happened after replacing the check valve twice with USA made valves. I checked the exhaust air with filter paper and it is clean. Gremlins? Haunted compressor, bad karma?
Other source of contamination?
+James Levindofske That's some bad luck, it sounds like...it's not common to see two valves fail like that. My first inclination is to say there is debris inside of the tank and/or Discharge Tube that's causing the Check Valve to stick, but it sounds like you've confirmed this is not the case. You can attempt to take a light dab of Vaseline and coat the Diaphragm inside the Check Valve (if it has a diaphragm, most modern Check Valves do). This may help it seal. Otherwise, there has to be some debris or rust causing the valve to stick open.
Great video :). Quick Question if I may...
Q: I've got a basic 30L compressor which is having some issues.
1) issue: When the compressor is on, it will get to around 90psi (max is about 115/120) and it wont go any further. one thing I noticed however, pressurized air would escape the unloader valve after turning on, and really pushes out air at higher PSI. Compressor will just keep running and wont turn off.
2) Taking some valves off to inspect, I broke the Check Valve (looks like a metric valve), so I'll need to replace.. do I have to replace with another Metric valve or can I use any that would fit?
3) the line leading from the Check Valve > Unloader Valve, small aluminum pipe by looks of it, the flanged end keeps pushing through the nut that screws to the Check Valve, can I replace that with a piece of hose with a different nut?
+sypher0101 Sorry for the long delay in this reply!
1) Does air leak out of the Unloader Valve constantly while the unit is running, as soon as it hits 90 PSI? If so, the Unloader Valve itself is probably faulty and I would replace it (these are usually available separately). The Unloader should only open after the unit shuts off when it reaches max PSI, and only then for a few seconds to bleed the excess air out of the lines and off of the pump head.
2) The threads really need to match, I'd assume (without looking at your compressor). If your Check Valve is metric, I'd replace it with a metric valve; if not you'll have to cut new threads in the Tank inlet, purchase new 1/4" tubing and fittings for the Unloader Line, and a new Discharge Tube with fittings. Typically it's more trouble than it's worth to convert it to a standard thread set-up from metric.
3) See #2 above.If the nut is in good shape but you still can't get a good seal when you tighten it down on the tube, you may need to replace the Tube itself. I would contact the manufacturer of the compressor to see if they sell replacement parts first, and maybe even a plumbing supply store.
My compressor will fill with air and as the pressure drops it will NOT turn back on . Any tips?
I have a check valve that looks just like the one in this video, but it is on a much larger compressor. I purchased the compressor used and it was not working. I replaced the pump, but it is now leaking air just like you describe in this video. It leaks at the unloader valve and the oil fill tube? I am getting ready to order a check valve from your web site, but wanted to verify something. I have already taken the check valve out and there is nothing inside it. If that is the way it's supposed to be, I can't even seen how it can go bad. I assume there are supposed to be components inside this value? If so I am assuming someone has removed the inner workings before I purchased it.
Thanks for the post Randy. There are certainly supposed to be components inside of the check valve. There should be a diaphragm and spring (or a polyurethane ball and spring if it's older) inside the brass check valve. If there is nothing there then the components have probably fallen into the tank or disintegrated. It sounds like replacing the Check Valve is the way to go! Report back when you do as it would be good to know if this did the trick.
what make/model air compressor is this pls??? I have an air compressor near exact set-up but with a "sketchy" output line. The head (from the outside) looks exactly like mine, but the one in this vid has a screw in connector. I've been looking for a replacement head with the threaded output! Pls help. Thanks in advance...
I believe that this unit was a Bostich CAP2000P-OF located at the link below:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/stanley-bostitch-air-compressor-parts-cap2000p-of-bostitch-parts-p-21197.html
I have a Bostitch BTFP02012 which goes to 60 lbs and that it all and it keeps running. I have tried adjusting the regular but it makes no difference. Would the check valve have anything to do with this or is it something else.
Thanks for the question! Most likely not. If the unit only builds up to 60 PSI and continues to run, but doesn't build more than that, the problem lies in the pump itself (barring an obvious air leak somewhere). Most likely the problem is with the little metal reed valves underneath the head (on either side of the valve plate) or with the piston ring itself. Most likely, the piston ring is damaged or just worn out, which has also probably worn the walls of the little cylinder cup. This is very common for oil-free units, especially if the compressor was run for longer than it's supposed to be. These are pretty light-duty units so this is easy to do. You can find a full breakdown on this unit by clicking on the belowaircompressorpartsonline.com/portable-oilfree-air-compressor-parts-btfp02012-p-998934.html link:
Eric, my Bostitch BTFPO2011 pancake compressor will not shut off. I can't seem to find any leaks after I manually shut it off. Any ideas?
Thanks for the question! If you don't detect any discernible leak while the unit is running or after you shut if off (and you can spray soapy water all over the unit to confirm this), most likely the problem lies in the pump itself. You probably have either a blown gasket, damaged reed valves or piston ring (most likely), so it's not able to build enough pressure to reach the max PSI pre-set for the unit, at which point the on/off pressure switch would shut the unit off automatically. I would take the head off of the pump and view the reed valves on either side of the valve plate; make sure they're not cracked or rusted badly. If they appear to be intact, most likely you have a damaged Piston Ring. Make sure there are no kinks, folds or tears on the outer perimeter of the Ring. If you see any light between the ring and the cylinder wall, it's worn and needs to be replaced. It's recommend to replace the Cylinder and Ring, so our Piston Ring/Cylinder Kit (part# Q369840), which you can view by clicking on the below link:
mastertoolrepair.com/portable-oil-free-direct-drive-air-compressor-parts-btfp02011-p-396948.html
Hope this helps!
my 6 gallon copancakempressor has a rataling just before it comes to peak fill any suggestions
Thanks Claude. You will find that this happens with many smaller, oil-free air compressors. There isn't a whole lot you can do other than ensuring all of the plastic components and fasteners are nice and tight. If the unit takes a long time to reach max PSI then there may be internal pump problems, like a worn compression ring on the piston, or damaged valves.
Hi, what can cause the reset button on the motor pop? after I push it, it starts fills and then once the air goes low the motor doesn't turn on, I have to push the reset button.
Sorry for the delay in this reply and it may not be useful to you any longer, but this could be a Check Valve problem. If it's clogged or if there is any debris in the line the check valve won't open and/or close all of the way, which can trip the reset or breaker. Make sure your tank holds pressure and that you don't lose any pressure at all after you turn the unit off (with the tank full of course).
Otherwise, you could have a defective start or run capacitor on the motor. You can test the capacitor(s) with a simple voltage meter.
Air Compressor Parts Online Thanks.
My pancake is running but it's not building ant pressure. It's less than 6 months old and is used infrequently . Is the check valve bad?
Thanks for the question! If it's not building pressure at all then it's probably not a check valve problem. If you remove the discharge tube from the head and run the unit, and you know the pump is pressurizing and that you're getting compression, there is either a large leak somewhere or (more likely) you have defective valves or a defective piston compression ring. I would remove the head from the pump and inspect the small reed valves (if it's an oil-free unit like the one in the video) and look at the edges of the piston ring as one or both will be damaged. My bet is on a damaged piston ring. Hope this helps!
I have a Kobalt 60 gal compressor issue where the line between the check valve and the pressure switch continues to blow off before full tank pressure has been achieved. Check valve, line and pressure switch have all been replaced, have you ever seen this before?
+Ian Mac Vittie A couple of questions first:
- Which end of the tube is popping off, is it at the Check Valve or at the Pressure Switch?
- What is the Tube you replaced it with, copper or nylon (plastic)?
- What type of fitting does the Tube attached to at the check valve? Is it a standard compression fitting with compression nut and sleeve, or is it a "quick-connect" fitting in which you just push the tube in and it locks in place?
- What type of fitting does the Tube attached to at the Pressure Switch? Is it
a standard compression fitting with compression nut and sleeve, or is it a "quick-connect" fitting in which you just push the tube in and it locks in place?
Did you solve the problem, I'm having the same issue.
Belt came off mine other day and put belt back on it reaches like 30lb motor slows down throws breakers
Thank you for the comment! This is a common problem. Most likely the belt is simply too tight or too loose; IMO I believe the belt is too loose. When you press down on the center point of the belt with your finger, there should be 1/2" of deflection. Any more or any less and the belt is too tight or too loose on the pulley and flywheel. If the belt "slips" (meaning it's too loose), this can cause the motor to trip the breaker as it's being put under an intermittent load. So, I'd adjust the belt so that there is 1/2" of deflection, make sure the motor pulley and pump flywheel are aligned properly, then give it a go. It should purr once you do!
Air Compressor Parts Online yea I tried different pump and motor somehow it done it on them they are old stuff so possibly the conditioners got weak
I've got a Craftsman 12gal 125psi upright that was given to me free because it did not build any pressure. I found the gaskets deteriorated inside the head. I replaced the gaskets and both reed valves and after reassembly It builds to only 75 psi. Air constantly leaks from that bleed valve you are talking about (while its running, not when i switch it off) and it never goes over 75psi. I noticed a lot of airflow coming out of the "muffler" for the crankcase so I thought maybe the rings were bad, so I replaced them too. Still will not build over 75psi after the rings.... any thoughts?
Hi Chad, what is the model number so that we may look up the unit?
Model# 921166400, Thanks!
Looking at this page:
mastertoolrepair.com/air-compressor-parts-921166400-p-22148.html
Which bleed valve are you referring to?
Are you referring to the unloader valve under the pressure switch?
Have you removed item 36, the check valve to see if there is debris in this valve preventing all of the air from entering the tank?
My neighbor and I figured it out. When I rebuilt it the edge of a reed valve got stuck under the plate. It caused the reed to break! Now building max psi, thank you though!
what if my 150psi pancake only charges to 120psi or so and turns off? what do I turn to knock it up to 150psi?
If the compressor only pressurizes to 120 PSI and turns off, that's certainly a problem (most likely) with the on/off Pressure Switch itself. The pressure switch is an electro-pneumatic switch that senses the cut-on and cut-off pressures, and the cut-off pressure is preset for 150 PSI. If it only reaches 120 PSi then shuts off, it's not sensing the pressure accurately and either needs to be adjusted or replaced. Some pressure switches are not adjustable so replacement is necessary. What is the model# of your compressor?
I replaced my check valve but it did not solve the leak
my pancake compressor runs constantly and has a max pressure of 60 psi. no leaks when I shut it off. will hold pressure for days. just won't rise above 60 psi. any ideas?
+JEFF ESKEW I apologize for the delay in this reply! I'm sure you've already found the solution for this problem by now but if not, the problem lies with the piston ring and cylinder (if an oil-free unit) and possibly the reed valves as well. Typically on oil-free units, the Teflon-coated compression ring becomes damaged, kinked or develops a tear in the perimeter so you won't get a very good seal with the cylinder wall. If all looks well with the piston ring then you may have damaged/stuck reed valves in the pump. I would inspect these parts first if you're not getting very good compression.
why is the nylon tube so small and the compressor-tank feed line so big?
The small nylon tube is smaller because it is only a "bleeder" line of "unloader" line...the compressor is not transferring the bulk of the air to the tank from the pump head like the transfer (discharge) tube does; this is why the discharge tube has a larger diameter. The 1/4" bleeder line only releases the excess air from the pump head after the unit shuts off, which makes start-up much easier.
My nylon 1/4” tubing keeps bursting. I replaced it with new and it did it again. What would cause this?
I used a higher rated pressure tubing for the new line too.
@@steveglynn1537 As long as it's the correct size tube and pressure rating, this shouldn't really happen. Now, I'd check the adapter that the tube inserts into. Also, the check valve itself could very well cause this problem. If the check valve isn't sealing when the unit shuts off, tank pressure will backfeed through the lines and can cause the tube to blow out. If the tank holds air when the unit shuts off, the check valve is OK. If the check valve is OK, I would replace the fitting the tube inserts into. Thanks for the comment!
I have a central pneumatic 21 gallon it will build cut off an while using it the pressure keep dropping an going down to 40 psi it never used to do dat it used to stand at 90 pis any help would be kindly appreciated
After the units shuts off at max PSI, does the unit leak air at all that you can tell? Or, does it hold at max PSI unless you use it?
If the PSI is dropping, that's due to a leak somewhere and it would be a good idea to spray some soapy water solution on all of the fittings to see where the leak is occurring (if I read the problem correctly).
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline wen it shuts off at max PSI it do not lose any air but wen i am using it an it comes back on while it running air is coming out from d little thin line which is running to d pressure switch an d PSI drops down to 40 PSI wen it used to stand at 90 PSI dats d problem that i am having
@@kassanjackson7231 Thank you for replying with that info Kassan. I think the Unloader Valve on your Pressure Switch is defective. This is the small Needle Valve on the switch in which that small 1/4" line runs to. If that valve isn't sealing then it will remain open while the unit is running, so it will take a long time (or will never) reach the max PSI.
You may be able to replace the Unloader Valve only but if it's not available separately then you'll need to replace the Pressure Switch.
You can view the various Unloader Valves on most units on our website by clicking on the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/pressure-switches-pressure-switch-unloader-valves-c-25_2_258.html
Hopefully this helps!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline ok thanks alot
My SIP hurricane v300 / 100 was leaking from the pressure switch, was about to order a new PS but thankfully I stopped by an air compressor dealer who gave me a new rubber stopper to fit in the check valve. My compressor runs like a champ again and it cost me €0:00
Thanks to o'neills industrial limerick
That's great to hear James, smart decision!
Air Compressor Parts Online well after using the compressor I found it very slow to refill, takes ages to get from 60/120psi. Why would this be, it holds air amazingly long now, I resealed the joints.
It's a direct drive, no oil, 3 year old unit.
James, it sounds as if there is either an obstruction in the check valve (even if you just replaced the seal, as debris from the pump head could have made its way into the check valve) or one or more of the pump components is defective and needs to be replaced. Slow pressurization is usually caused by either damaged gasket seals, defective reed valves or piston ring in the pump itself. With oil-free units it's common to see a defective piston (compression) ring. Visually inspect the ring for damage around the outer perimeter where it makes the seal with the cylinder wall. Most likely you'll noticed it is torn, notched or torn, not providing a good compression seal within the cylinder. Also inspect gaskets and valves while you're there. But, barring a major, obvious air leak somewhere else, I'd bet the problem lies in the pump itself.
Air Compressor Parts Online the old check valve was plastic and shattered, 👍
Also, I'm thinking of joining two of these compressors to on airline for more psi, is it simple as joining them to the air line or do the units need modification.
James, that's great to hear you found the faulty check valve. As to your second issue, you can do this as long as your circuit breaker can withstand the amperage with both of them running at the same time; if not, then you would need to change the setting of the one pressure switch to be lower than the other unit (do not raise the existing pressure due to safety) to allow one unit to come on and shut off before the other one does. Essentially you would be alternating the compressors.
AC could this be my problem my air leak is bleeding thru my oil cap ? Good piston rings great cylinder walls but air is still blowing out of the fill plug ??? Help me help me please !
Yes, this is a definite possibility. Is this happening while the unit is running or after it cuts off?
Air Compressor Parts Online Both but the check valve had trash in it holding it open so for now I will be checking it 1st ! But the reed valve had trash trapped to so my symptom pointed toward the oil rings not ! They were fine it's running like its brand new lol! Thanks big time!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline
hi bro.i have a same problem.air leak at the oil cap and one plastic filter (i dont know the true name,plastic like a filter) on the crank case after cut off pressure switch.
Maybe it cause problem from a unloader valve ?
Compressor dual stage ( double piston ) jaguar 2hp 100liter
Mine turns on and doesnt build pressure the motor just keeps running
+moneyhungryyt I would take a look at my reply to JEFF ESKEW's comment above, as the same may apply to your air compressor. Usually, if the motor turns on and the piston is moving up and down but you're not getting any compression, you either have a damaged/worn Compression (Piston) Ring and/or faulty/damaged Reed Valves in the pump. You will probably have to remove the pump head and inspect these components to confirm. It could be as simple as a damaged Gasket causing an air leak.
My compressor reaches its pressure and cuts out like it is meant to however it immediately restarts cuts out restarts cuts out and so on until i switch it off at the mains switch any ideas on what could be the problem?
Thanks
Graham
Thanks for the questions Nick. It does sound like your Check Valve could be the problem. It's probably sticking open once the unit shuts off, thereby back-feeding all of the tank pressure out of the tank and through the lines and out to the atmosphere. Does the tank hold pressure when the unit is completely off, or does it hold air? If it leaks when the unit turns off, you certainly have a defective Check Valve.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline thank you for your reply when i switch it off i get some air leaking from the pressure switch then it stops yes the tank dose hold its pressure at is maximum which i set to shut off at 100psi purely for safety and peace of mind although it cold hold more im happy with that. to mention it did have a Cormack pressure switch which went wrong and changed it for one like you show in the video i also changed the small tube from the check valve as well, does the small tube diameter make a difference if it is bigger or smaller to the original?
Thanks
Graham
@@nickgreek8239 Glad to help! It seems as though your Check Valve is good, then, as your tank holds air. IT sounds to me like the original pressure switch is defective. The contacts inside could be dirty or corroded, causing the problem you're experiencing. I don't believe the diameter of the bleeder tube matters, no, as long as it fits snug into the fitting on each end of the tube.
Hi if my tank shuts off at 135 psi and used to pump to 150 psi would that be a check valve or pressure switch?
Thanks for the questions! It's probably neither. Unless there is an obvious leak around the pressure switch or check valve, the problem is most likely with the pump internally. You either have a damaged compression/piston ring or damaged reed valves in the pump head. It could be as simple as a damaged gasket but if it's an oil-free unit, I can almost guarantee the problem is caused by a damaged piston ring. I would remove the pump head and inspect these components.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline
Thanks for your reply.
What a bummer I bought it brand new not long ago and don't use it a whole lot it's a kobalt quiet tech 26 gallon oil free.
Guess I'll call kobalt I was hoping it was just a pressure switch and I could buy one without chasing down the warranty
@@eclipse1999able Hopefully Kobalt (aka Lowe's) will be able to assist you with a warranty repair. When you have a loss of compression it's typically (almost) always an internal pump issue, unless there is an obvious leak elsewhere.
so my compressor has a continuous pressure over over 20psi coming from the check valve to the unloader valve- i am assuming the check valve is completely defective?
Thank you for the question! Yes, it's probably defective. If there is any air at all leaking from the tank (usually through the unloader valves) after the unit shuts off, the check valve is certainly the problem.
No this air is while the unit is running
@@robbiewilson157 In that case, it may just be the valve that's leaking that's the problem, the Unloader Valve on the pressure switch. That shouldn't leak at all while the unit is running. That may require the pressure switch to be replaced, unless it's a type of unloader valve available separately.
Starts at 1:45
👍 👍 😊
My compressor moving very tight sir plz. Help
If it's an oil-free unit, there could be many reasons for this. I would certainly perform this check valve test, first.
I would then remove the head to see if any of the reed valves and piston ring and cylinder is damaged. My bet is that the piston (compression) ring is damaged or the rod is seizing up on the crankshaft.
😍
Is that you NeverEnoughAmmo?
where can I get that valve?
You can get the valve on our website, just search your model number and pull up the parts diagram and parts list. Just click on the link below:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thank you,!
@@TheSmittydog You are welcome, and thank you for watching!
Mine continually runs and builds no pressure.
I removed the biggest line going to the valve and air is coming out of it.
Do you have a video or suggestion on my problem?
Thanks
Thanks for the watch and for the question! There is a problem with the pump itself if the unit will not build pressure while running. Most likely the reed valves and/or piston ring is defective, not allowing the pump to pressurize. From here, I would remove the pump head and inspect the reed valves, gaskets and piston (compression) ring. You will probably see obvious damage to one of these components.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnlineOk thanks. That’s my next step.
By the way it’s a Makita Mac 5200
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline I took the cylinder head off and valve cover off.
The valve cover has an aluminum gasket which is good and both reed valves which are just 2 rectangular pieces of aluminum are not defective.
I then pulled the cylinder off and the piston has 3 rings and head gasket look like new.
I’m kind of stumped right now on where to go next.
Any other suggestions?
I just assembled the cylinder back on and without hooking anything any hoses I fired it up and the exhaust port is pushing lots of air. I’m going to put it all back together it pretty sure when I disconnected just the big copper feed tube to the valve at the tank there was air being pushed out of the end of it.
@@rotaxrider As long as there are no obvious leaks anywhere, the problem should be in the pump internally. I thought you would have found defective valves or damaged gaskets so it's strange they looked like they were in good condition. What is the make and model of your compressor?
Check leaks with soap water in a spray bottle.
Hello so I have an air escaping from a small hole under my pressure switch. However it only escapes when it's building pressure, also it wont build more that 40lbs of pressure. Any ideas.
Most likely the diaphragm inside the pressure switch is defective. The in-tank check valve is OK as long as the tank holds pressure after the unit shuts off. For some switches, the diaphragm isn't available separately so you may have to replace the entire pressure switch. Thank you for the question.
Air Compressor Parts Online just to piggy back off this question. I have a similar situation where it won’t build any more pressure after a certain point. If the unit is cold it will go all the way up to 130-140 but wasn’t shutting off and when I shut off manually I would switch it back on and it would not turn on even if I let air out the motor would not kick back on. So I replaced the entire pressure switch with a new one again when cold would start the first time and build good pressure. To test I let all air out and started again, this time it would only build about 60lbs and shut off and won’t restart until a few few minutes later when it cools down. Pressure is not escaping. But now I’m stumped since I replaced the pressure switch. I reused the old unloader valve, could that be the issue?
@@monofrio6804 Typically, I would say the problem certainly lies in the pressure switch, but since you replaced it that shouldn't be causing the problem. The unloader valve only needs to be replaced if it leaks constantly while the unit is running or if it doesn't stop bleeding after the unit shuts off. You're only supposed to hear air "unloading" from that valve fora few seconds after the unit shuts off. As long as this is happening, it's probably OK. The issue might be with the motor itself so you may want to have an electrician or repair shop take a look at the rest of the electrical components. As long as the switch was wired correctly, it should be good to go. It's a bit difficult to diagnose it here sight unseen, though. Thank you for the comment.
N