Thank you guys so much for watching! If you'd like to order the tools or injectors check out the links below: BMW Fuel Injector Removal Tool: US: amzn.to/34IVJrS UK: amzn.to/2xu1ygv CA: amzn.to/2XD5EO2 EU6 Injectors: US: amzn.to/2wFhdsV UK: amzn.to/3ck2mU1 CA: amzn.to/3a98DjV EU5 Injectors: US: amzn.to/34zaCwP UK: amzn.to/3b9i6Jr CA: amzn.to/2yaO3lT Teflon Seals: US: amzn.to/3cmnd9l UK: amzn.to/3cjAsHH CA: amzn.to/2V6Fmlz Decoupling Element: US: amzn.to/34ADNQ5 UK: amzn.to/3a5DaPH CA: amzn.to/3a997GL
Just wanted to say how much I appreciate this video. I love your level of detail. I have the N20 in my 2016 X3 and I like to watch videos like these on how to replace stuff just in case in needs to be done in the future, plus I just learn more about my engine. Thanks again!
I appreciate that! I'm the same way, when I lived in an apartment, I had no where to work on my cars, but would still watch videos just in case I'd do it in the future!
Hey man thanks for these videos. I had an E89 with the N54 engine and thought it was a maintenance nightmare because I had no idea that normal people could replace things like ignition coils and fuel injectors. Now I am buying another E89 with the N52 engine and I feel confident I can work on it myself and save a ton of money. Really appreciate your work.
Great to read comments like this! You can definitely do most of the work on the car as long as you have a little bit of patience and some space. Also, N52 should be super reliable since it doesn't have a turbo, have fun and good luck!
I have a 2015 X1 with the n20 engine An independent shop replaced 1 injector, 4 spark plugs and 4 coils. The car runs good except it is rough at idle. It doesn't seem to be "hunting" with the rpms just steady but the car shakes more than normal at idle. The car smooths out when I accelerate even a little. I hope the injector was put in correctly.
Hard to tell of course, but does it have any codes? Did they code the injector to the car? If it's rough at idle, you should have some rich/lean codes, i would think.
Great video. I have a few questions. I have a E84 2013 BMW X1 Xdrive 4cyls, where can I look up torque? 1. Which Torque Wrench are you using? 2. What's the torque to tighten the fuel injectors? 3. What's the torque to tighten the fuel rail nuts?
Do you think tightening the hold down bracket is enough to properly seat the injectors, or is the special tool needed? I already have the injectors out, so don't require the special tool for removal at least. I'm trying to avoid purchasing the tool, because it's $85 for my early model of N55. Wanted your opinion on whether it's necessary to use the tool for installation. Thanks!
Thanks guy. Really appreciate you explained procedures in great detail and clearly. I have an N20 engine in my 2013 X3 2.8 and I am sure in one day I can use some of the video lessons to do my vehicle.
Appreciate the encouragement. When I got this car, I swore that I will do every repair, maintenance myself and thus far I have not been to a dealer or shop for a repair!
@@LoganHudson I've done all of the maintenance on the F10 as well. If you're asking if the injectors are the same on the F10, then only on the N20 engine.
@@gregoryk6700 Mine ended up being the HPFP was leaking fuel into the crankcase. I had an extra quart of oil when I changed it! So much gas in the oil that the pcv was picking it up and my fuel trims were -30. Changed the fuel pump and the trims immediately went to zero.
@@lawrencehull2975 I'm having a rich code too. Can you explain fuel trim -30. I suspect the HPFP or injectors but not 100% sure. I don't smell fuel in the crankcase and also changed the oil, didn't have extra fluid. I've tried everything, replaced MAF and both MAP sensors, both O2 sensors. I do have a diagnostic tool but don't know what to look for in the fuel trim. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
@@faresbotros9884 On a scan tool you can read "short term and long term" fuel trims. -30 is about maxed out. It means that the computer is pulling back the fuel to try to get the trim closer to zero.
Just replaced variable timing eccentric shaft sensor... had to remove the valve cover and I just used 2 small pry bars to get the injectors out. It wasn't really stuck in there (at least mine wasn't). Great video!!
What were the symptoms that you had to replace the eccentric shaft sensor? If you aren't reusing the injectors, then you can just pull them out, however if you plan on reusing they are easily damaged doing that. The manual says: "Set torque wrench to 5 Nm clockwise rotation. Together with special tool - crow foot wrench - this corresponds to a tensile force of max. 2000 N. The injector must be replaced if the torque wrench clicks when the injector is pulled out!"
@@SimpleCarGuy No Symptoms but had p1017 p10E2. so far car has been fine. injectors "looked" good when I got them out. good thing the injectors are not hard to get to if anything
great video, but is it necessary to use tool for inserting? It looks like, as you firmly pressed by finger at the begining, it does more pressure then 2NM on that tool, but I may be wrong. I'm asking because I do not have torque wrench with 2NM settings.
Fantastic video. Hi, I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
You don’t need those special expensive BMW tool to remove those injectors. You can get something from HD for $3. At least It worked for me. Good tutorial video btw.
Me again, I commented on your N20 Engine swap a few weeks back because I was in the process of doing one as well. I'm finished and car runs good but I am getting lean codes and tried hunting down leaks to no avail, then stumbled across this video. I should just watch all of your videos so I'm prepared for anything you've already been through lol. My original also had EU5's and the new engine has EU6's so I guess that's why I am getting the lean codes. I saw another video of you replacing the HPFP. I was going to use my old one but I broke the connector putting it in. Come to find out the new HPFP's have a different connection so I had to McGuyver a makeshift adapter. Do you know if the HPFP's are also EU5 and EU6 specific?
Hey hey! Yes, you’ll have to swap the injectors back to eu5 or you’ll keep getting those lean codes. I tried upgrading the DME but that didn’t work. As far as the HPFP, there is no difference from what I could tell. I’m running the newer one as well with a connected I adopted myself. I cut off the connector from the wiring loom I wasn’t using and spliced it into the existing connector. Works great.
Hello. Did i hear you say you have been running for about a year with the CEL..? I think i ran into the same problem but could be a leak too so at this time i am not sure. I am hoping it is this problem as i can find the leak if is in fact a leak
It wouldn’t necessarily be a check engine light, but whenever I would scan the car, I would have a code for lean condition (as far as I remember, I mentioned the exact code in the video I think) and then sometimes I would actually get a light on the dash for the same code.
@@SimpleCarGuy hello my friend. I just confirmed it with ISTA D. My x3 requires eu5 injectors. Damnit... What a pain...And in my case, I do get an amber CEL. Not all the time but say 2 out of 5 drives I guess. Did you say you ran your car like that for a while? I need to travel this Friday and I would like to know if this would have adverse effects...
i am impressed! finally someone who’s doing it right I will tackle this job in the following weeks. And i am thinking about doing my very first repair video (also youtube video) do you recommend Genuine or OEM (bosch) injectors?
@@SimpleCarGuy hey, I changed 6 Injectors, Sparkplugs, coils, Air filter, oil change, MAF, MAP, O2 Sensors I still have the problem.... I am speechless
Hi Juan, you can use many different scanners/tools, but I used this one: ruclips.net/video/d1xggdQA2sE/видео.html I torqued the lines using crowfoot wrenches like this and the torque wrench: amzn.to/2FlwHXs
@@JSarmiento. It's a good idea to buy those. Since I got my torque wrench, I've used it a million times and the crowfoot wrenches are great for fuel and brake lines.
Depends on the date your car was manufactured. You can go to realeom, enter your VIN and it will tell you which one. I know N55 engine switched in late 2010, so the date the car was made is very important for you.
@@SimpleCarGuy hey thanks for the reply , so I went on the website and it says my part number for RP injector is 13537568607, EU5 and says superseded by 13647597870(EU5) does that mean I can also get those EU5 injectors or only the ones with my similar part number, they are both EU5 so does it matter ?
@@SimpleCarGuy Thank you, would you happen to know the cylinder compression range for 2013 f10 n20 2.0 4 cylinder. I got 150 on all 4, not sure if its bad?
Good video however the injector puller tool is used for only one purpose, pulling the injectors. It should not be used for installation. The injectors are plastic and any downward pressure from the rail connection on the top will flex the injector and could damage it. Anyway, once the injector seals are compressed, drop them in the head, push them into the head with hand force, and then use the retaining plate and screws to seat them. Do this all within 3 mins and you will have no problem. The FCP Euro site shows a N20 video demonstrating this method.
Hey how come you did not program already installed injectors instead of taking the old ones off? You had the tool to write the injector #s. What is your email? Maybe I can help next time.
It’s a replacement engine that came with euro6 injectors. The ECU on the car only supports euro5 injectors. Adjusting the compensation on the injectors didn’t help, I tried that. Thanks, though!
@@SimpleCarGuy hello i have a question im in the middle as something like you I swapped a new engine in my x5 but it won't start its n55 I coded everything still wont start im about 2 swap back my old engine injectores in bc I see no gas on spark plugs at all so im guessing injectores don't shoot fuel did u have any problems with your swap?
I'm not sure why you would, the tool is inexpensive, but I guess you can use a slide hammer or just yank on them until they come out. You will 100% destroy them, just to be clear.
I have just installed new genuine BMW Injectors. I used a quality Injector-Tool, but I don't seem to know how to use it. I have followed your video aswelll the BMW-Technical bulletin. I have tried several hours but the outer screw seems to slip through the inner screw. (it is kinda hard to explain), but I cannot find a way to use the tool appropriately. I managed to press-in the Injectors with my hand and secure them with the metal clips. It does seem to work fine however. It runs fine though, I think: ruclips.net/video/pe3Yketxdvo/видео.html Should I screw in the inner part completely onto the injector? Or should I tighten the outer part on the inner part? Do you have any suggestion? Maybe I will post a video about the problem.
Like you said, had to explain over text, but the top bolt should be screwing through the bottom bolt and onto the injector. You may need to screw in the bottom bolt at the same time to give you room. I suggest going a little bit at a time in each injector until it is flush with the injector. Then you undo the bottom bolt that will ‘push’ the tool with the injector into the engine. Use torque wrench to get the right specs. Not sure if I can explain it any better. Took me a few minutes to get it right, but if you move both of them at the same time, it should bind.
@@SimpleCarGuy When I try to "push" the bottom screw it does not bind to the upper screw. Or, the bottom screw bottoms out, and reaches the tool's frame.
@@Italiano9091 Can't you unscrew the bottom screw so that you have a few 'free' turns while screwing the top screw into the injector? That should work, if I understand it correctly.
@@SimpleCarGuy Since I installed new injectors, spark plugs, coils, the engine makes noticeable clicking noises.... Does it sound normal to you? ruclips.net/video/pe3Yketxdvo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/1pue6ovgXI0/видео.html
@@Italiano9091 Are you use it didn't have this clicking before? At first I thought it sounds like HPFP clicking, but it's more high pitch, at least in the video. I hope it isn't, but it almost sounds like timing chain. How many miles/KMs on the car?
Injector wouldn't cause oil burning issues, but if it's dumping too much fuel into the cylinder, your car will run rich and you may see smoke out of the exhaust.
Thank you guys so much for watching!
If you'd like to order the tools or injectors check out the links below:
BMW Fuel Injector Removal Tool:
US: amzn.to/34IVJrS
UK: amzn.to/2xu1ygv
CA: amzn.to/2XD5EO2
EU6 Injectors:
US: amzn.to/2wFhdsV
UK: amzn.to/3ck2mU1
CA: amzn.to/3a98DjV
EU5 Injectors:
US: amzn.to/34zaCwP
UK: amzn.to/3b9i6Jr
CA: amzn.to/2yaO3lT
Teflon Seals:
US: amzn.to/3cmnd9l
UK: amzn.to/3cjAsHH
CA: amzn.to/2V6Fmlz
Decoupling Element:
US: amzn.to/34ADNQ5
UK: amzn.to/3a5DaPH
CA: amzn.to/3a997GL
Just wanted to say how much I appreciate this video. I love your level of detail. I have the N20 in my 2016 X3 and I like to watch videos like these on how to replace stuff just in case in needs to be done in the future, plus I just learn more about my engine. Thanks again!
I appreciate that! I'm the same way, when I lived in an apartment, I had no where to work on my cars, but would still watch videos just in case I'd do it in the future!
Hey man thanks for these videos. I had an E89 with the N54 engine and thought it was a maintenance nightmare because I had no idea that normal people could replace things like ignition coils and fuel injectors. Now I am buying another E89 with the N52 engine and I feel confident I can work on it myself and save a ton of money. Really appreciate your work.
Great to read comments like this! You can definitely do most of the work on the car as long as you have a little bit of patience and some space. Also, N52 should be super reliable since it doesn't have a turbo, have fun and good luck!
I have a 2015 X1 with the n20 engine An independent shop replaced 1 injector, 4 spark plugs and 4 coils. The car
runs good except it is rough at idle. It doesn't seem to be "hunting" with the rpms just steady but the car
shakes more than normal at idle. The car smooths out when I accelerate even a little. I hope the injector was put in
correctly.
Hard to tell of course, but does it have any codes? Did they code the injector to the car? If it's rough at idle, you should have some rich/lean codes, i would think.
Great video. I have a few questions.
I have a E84 2013 BMW X1 Xdrive 4cyls, where can I look up torque?
1. Which Torque Wrench are you using?
2. What's the torque to tighten the fuel injectors?
3. What's the torque to tighten the fuel rail nuts?
Do you think tightening the hold down bracket is enough to properly seat the injectors, or is the special tool needed? I already have the injectors out, so don't require the special tool for removal at least. I'm trying to avoid purchasing the tool, because it's $85 for my early model of N55. Wanted your opinion on whether it's necessary to use the tool for installation. Thanks!
Thanks guy. Really appreciate you explained procedures in great detail and clearly. I have an N20 engine in my 2013 X3 2.8 and I am sure in one day I can use some of the video lessons to do my vehicle.
Glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Gutsy repair. Great DIY videos. Keep them coming!👍
Appreciate the encouragement. When I got this car, I swore that I will do every repair, maintenance myself and thus far I have not been to a dealer or shop for a repair!
@@SimpleCarGuy this the same f10 engine ?
Logan Hudson yes
@@LoganHudson I've done all of the maintenance on the F10 as well. If you're asking if the injectors are the same on the F10, then only on the N20 engine.
Good video… my question is between EU5 and the EU6…. are both type is required to be calibrated or just EU5
Best video I've seen on N20 injectors. More info than the others. Thanks Buddy. Now on to my rich code :( I'm re-watching all your videos lol!
Thanks for watching and hopefully it helps!
Same here rich code, swapped the first sensor too
@@gregoryk6700 Mine ended up being the HPFP was leaking fuel into the crankcase. I had an extra quart of oil when I changed it! So much gas in the oil that the pcv was picking it up and my fuel trims were -30. Changed the fuel pump and the trims immediately went to zero.
@@lawrencehull2975 I'm having a rich code too. Can you explain fuel trim -30. I suspect the HPFP or injectors but not 100% sure. I don't smell fuel in the crankcase and also changed the oil, didn't have extra fluid. I've tried everything, replaced MAF and both MAP sensors, both O2 sensors. I do have a diagnostic tool but don't know what to look for in the fuel trim. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
@@faresbotros9884 On a scan tool you can read "short term and long term" fuel trims. -30 is about maxed out. It means that the computer is pulling back the fuel to try to get the trim closer to zero.
Just replaced variable timing eccentric shaft sensor... had to remove the valve cover and I just used 2 small pry bars to get the injectors out. It wasn't really stuck in there (at least mine wasn't). Great video!!
What were the symptoms that you had to replace the eccentric shaft sensor? If you aren't reusing the injectors, then you can just pull them out, however if you plan on reusing they are easily damaged doing that. The manual says: "Set torque wrench to 5 Nm clockwise rotation. Together with special tool - crow foot wrench - this corresponds to a tensile force of max. 2000 N. The injector must be replaced if the torque wrench clicks when the injector is pulled out!"
@@SimpleCarGuy No Symptoms but had p1017 p10E2. so far car has been fine. injectors "looked" good when I got them out. good thing the injectors are not hard to get to if anything
@@tobywilliams5630I have the same codes. What'd you end up changing?
great video, but is it necessary to use tool for inserting? It looks like, as you firmly pressed by finger at the begining, it does more pressure then 2NM on that tool, but I may be wrong. I'm asking because I do not have torque wrench with 2NM settings.
Technically, you CAN get installed without the tool; however, it may not be seated well. That could cause blow by down the line.
@@SimpleCarGuy thanks! I'm going to use the tool then. But just hand tight I guess.
Fantastic video. Hi, I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
It’ll start, it may just run a bit lumpy and won’t be as efficient. Fine to drive to the local shop.
Appreciate you watching!
@@SimpleCarGuy Thanks for the reply and thanks again for posting this great video.
Can you put 335 or 340 injectiors on a N20 obviously just 4 of the 6
Question, wouldn't it be smarter to blow out that debris with the injectors still in it so that your not getting stuff in there?
You don’t need those special expensive BMW tool to remove those injectors. You can get something from HD for $3. At least It worked for me. Good tutorial video btw.
You can easily remove them many different ways, the important part is installing them to the correct torque specs.
Me again, I commented on your N20 Engine swap a few weeks back because I was in the process of doing one as well. I'm finished and car runs good but I am getting lean codes and tried hunting down leaks to no avail, then stumbled across this video. I should just watch all of your videos so I'm prepared for anything you've already been through lol. My original also had EU5's and the new engine has EU6's so I guess that's why I am getting the lean codes. I saw another video of you replacing the HPFP. I was going to use my old one but I broke the connector putting it in. Come to find out the new HPFP's have a different connection so I had to McGuyver a makeshift adapter. Do you know if the HPFP's are also EU5 and EU6 specific?
Hey hey! Yes, you’ll have to swap the injectors back to eu5 or you’ll keep getting those lean codes. I tried upgrading the DME but that didn’t work. As far as the HPFP, there is no difference from what I could tell. I’m running the newer one as well with a connected I adopted myself. I cut off the connector from the wiring loom I wasn’t using and spliced it into the existing connector. Works great.
What size nut is on top of the ground wire? I lost mine and can’t find a replacement
Great video!
Can you give me the injector compensation video link here ?
Injectors Programming/Adjusting Compensation Rate: ruclips.net/video/yg-Y0egOPOI/видео.html
Links are usually located in the description.
Thousand thumbs up! Thank you for your effort!
Thanks for watching!
please man...... if you want...record the right sound who make the engine...!! is so helpful for us
Hello. Did i hear you say you have been running for about a year with the CEL..? I think i ran into the same problem but could be a leak too so at this time i am not sure. I am hoping it is this problem as i can find the leak if is in fact a leak
It wouldn’t necessarily be a check engine light, but whenever I would scan the car, I would have a code for lean condition (as far as I remember, I mentioned the exact code in the video I think) and then sometimes I would actually get a light on the dash for the same code.
@@SimpleCarGuy hello my friend. I just confirmed it with ISTA D. My x3 requires eu5 injectors. Damnit... What a pain...And in my case, I do get an amber CEL. Not all the time but say 2 out of 5 drives I guess. Did you say you ran your car like that for a while?
I need to travel this Friday and I would like to know if this would have adverse effects...
Subscribed!!!
@@JSarmiento. Didn't see the response, sorry! Yeah, I drove like that for a while and it was no problems at all.
i am impressed!
finally someone who’s doing it right
I will tackle this job in the following weeks. And i am thinking about doing my very first repair video (also youtube video)
do you recommend Genuine or OEM (bosch) injectors?
Thanks! I don’t see any problems going with Bosch as the quality is the same in my experience. Good luck on the video!
I managed to get 6 original NEW BMW Injectors for 700€ :)
@@SimpleCarGuy hey, I changed 6 Injectors, Sparkplugs, coils, Air filter, oil change, MAF, MAP, O2 Sensors
I still have the problem....
I am speechless
@@Italiano9091what was the problem? did you solve it
wait, you used the dust sprayer over open spark plug holes ??? Didn't you just spray a bunch of dust into your coil pack holes ?
I didn't take the spark plugs out, just the coils. I blew everything and anything out before putting the coils back in.
Hello. What tool did you use to program injector compensation on your BMW? How did you torqued the fuel lines?
Hi Juan, you can use many different scanners/tools, but I used this one: ruclips.net/video/d1xggdQA2sE/видео.html
I torqued the lines using crowfoot wrenches like this and the torque wrench: amzn.to/2FlwHXs
@@SimpleCarGuy i appreciate the help. I'm looking on doing this on my f25 x3. I want to be ready.
@@JSarmiento. It's a good idea to buy those. Since I got my torque wrench, I've used it a million times and the crowfoot wrenches are great for fuel and brake lines.
Does injector cause engine oil burning ?
9:36 what size socket were you using with the torque wrench?
Dont hold your torque wrench like that ☠☠☠
How can I know what fuel injectors to get for my bmw 535i 2011
Depends on the date your car was manufactured. You can go to realeom, enter your VIN and it will tell you which one. I know N55 engine switched in late 2010, so the date the car was made is very important for you.
@@SimpleCarGuy hey thanks for the reply , so I went on the website and it says my part number for RP injector is 13537568607, EU5 and says superseded by 13647597870(EU5) does that mean I can also get those EU5 injectors or only the ones with my similar part number, they are both EU5 so does it matter ?
During installation of injector is it 2 nm or 20 nm?
It's 2 NM
@@SimpleCarGuy
Thank you, would you happen to know the cylinder compression range for 2013 f10 n20 2.0 4 cylinder.
I got 150 on all 4, not sure if its bad?
Good video however the injector puller tool is used for only one purpose, pulling the injectors. It should not be used for installation. The injectors are plastic and any downward pressure from the rail connection on the top will flex the injector and could damage it. Anyway, once the injector seals are compressed, drop them in the head, push them into the head with hand force, and then use the retaining plate and screws to seat them. Do this all within 3 mins and you will have no problem. The FCP Euro site shows a N20 video demonstrating this method.
I guess it's possible; however, BMW's service manual shows it how I show it in the video.
Did that work for you
Hello mate, there’s no coding required?
Yes, if your new injectors are different values, you'll need to program them in. I have an old video on this: ruclips.net/video/yg-Y0egOPOI/видео.html
Have you seen the injectors on N57?
Can't say I have, isn't that diesel engine?
@@SimpleCarGuy Yes about 6 times more surface of contact with engine head, once they get stuck its not an easy job :)
Sounds like a job for a slide hammer :)
@@SimpleCarGuy Yup scary stuff :D
If you hav eu5 and replace another eu5 you don’t need to code 👍🏼
You have to adjust the compensation rate as each injector has a different value. Even if all are EU5 or EU6.
Hey how come you did not program already installed injectors instead of taking the old ones off? You had the tool to write the injector #s. What is your email? Maybe I can help next time.
It’s a replacement engine that came with euro6 injectors. The ECU on the car only supports euro5 injectors. Adjusting the compensation on the injectors didn’t help, I tried that.
Thanks, though!
@@SimpleCarGuy no problem. Where in Chicago are you at? I am in Chicago as well. :).
I’m in northern suburbs. What about you?
@@SimpleCarGuy I am in southwest suburbs. You are not that far from me!
@@SimpleCarGuy hello i have a question im in the middle as something like you I swapped a new engine in my x5 but it won't start its n55 I coded everything still wont start im about 2 swap back my old engine injectores in bc I see no gas on spark plugs at all so im guessing injectores don't shoot fuel did u have any problems with your swap?
how to remove injectors with out tool
I'm not sure why you would, the tool is inexpensive, but I guess you can use a slide hammer or just yank on them until they come out. You will 100% destroy them, just to be clear.
Why 30 secs? To put the ring
If you wait much longer, the seal will expand and you can kink it while inserting it into the motor.
え？プラグホールあいてるのにエアブローした！
I have just installed new genuine BMW Injectors. I used a quality Injector-Tool, but I don't seem to know how to use it. I have followed your video aswelll the BMW-Technical bulletin. I have tried several hours but the outer screw seems to slip through the inner screw. (it is kinda hard to explain), but I cannot find a way to use the tool appropriately. I managed to press-in the Injectors with my hand and secure them with the metal clips. It does seem to work fine however.
It runs fine though, I think:
ruclips.net/video/pe3Yketxdvo/видео.html
Should I screw in the inner part completely onto the injector? Or should I tighten the outer part on the inner part?
Do you have any suggestion?
Maybe I will post a video about the problem.
Like you said, had to explain over text, but the top bolt should be screwing through the bottom bolt and onto the injector. You may need to screw in the bottom bolt at the same time to give you room. I suggest going a little bit at a time in each injector until it is flush with the injector. Then you undo the bottom bolt that will ‘push’ the tool with the injector into the engine. Use torque wrench to get the right specs. Not sure if I can explain it any better. Took me a few minutes to get it right, but if you move both of them at the same time, it should bind.
@@SimpleCarGuy
When I try to "push" the bottom screw it does not bind to the upper screw. Or, the bottom screw bottoms out, and reaches the tool's frame.
@@Italiano9091 Can't you unscrew the bottom screw so that you have a few 'free' turns while screwing the top screw into the injector? That should work, if I understand it correctly.
@@SimpleCarGuy Since I installed new injectors, spark plugs, coils, the engine makes noticeable clicking noises....
Does it sound normal to you?
ruclips.net/video/pe3Yketxdvo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/1pue6ovgXI0/видео.html
@@Italiano9091 Are you use it didn't have this clicking before? At first I thought it sounds like HPFP clicking, but it's more high pitch, at least in the video. I hope it isn't, but it almost sounds like timing chain. How many miles/KMs on the car?
this guy he remove the injector is wrong step no same as bmw recommendation u can damage the bracket 'hold down device ' may be tilt
Which part is wrong? I followed BMWs recommendations
Great video. Too many ads.
Greasy hands on screen!
I’m working on a car, of course my hands will be greasy. Thanks for watching.
Does injector cause oils burning problems ?
Injector wouldn't cause oil burning issues, but if it's dumping too much fuel into the cylinder, your car will run rich and you may see smoke out of the exhaust.