@@dollaz_dollaz6499 no, I didn't have that issue. I had to change mine more because I did an engine swap and troubleshooting hot engine rough start issues.
The most comprehensive and accurate instructions- not seen anyone else go through the whole process covering all the crucial details from start to finish - many thanks
I have fitted several of these pumps and never cranked the engine, replaced the rubber gasket or torqued the bolts with absolutely no issues. Just tighten the bolts sensibly and evenly. This engine layout is easy to access, the V8’s are often difficult to access especially on one side. When ordering it is best to obtain the part number of the pump fitted to the vehicle. The number is clearly visible and it’s actually a Bosch unit.
Been having misfires at start up on all cylinders, according to ista, but the car drives fine. I just get a check engine a week later. I have an n20 f10, 2012, an the low pressure fuel pump had to be replaced 5 months ago. I am starting to wonder if its the HPFP.
Hi man, Question my BMW 328i Gt 2016 N20 has hasitation during acceleration do you think it could be this pump? what are actual sympthoms. I change intake pipe and spark plugs and still same. Thank you for your video.
There are many reasons including long crank on start up, half engine light comes on on heavy acceleration (malfunction engine light), service engine soon light comes on, hesitation in revs, etc.
My 2012 328i has been shutting off completely when reaching a high RPM, the repair shop told me the HP fuel pump lost complete pressure when tested. They quoted me 1400 on the pump and 600 in labor. Trying to investigate to see the best route to take on this, appreciate the video.
The shop I am working with is telling me that when I replace my high pressure fuel pump there are things that need to be "upgraded" so the fuel pipe and the harness adapter have to be "upgraded" as well. Its a couple hundred dollars to upgrade these two items. Have you heard of this or are they just trying to sell unnecessary parts. ?
i just had that today ;( car just stoped and after trying start again will shut down again had rugh starts before in mornings but i tho that was normal as after minute or so engine was running smouth checed codes and its hpfp low pressure 11a002 code 11a401, 11b401,d355f2 , and fuel pump 481b03 motor current too low i ordered new pump and sensor do you think i should change anything alse?? thanks for awesome content very helpful im greatfull take care thanks
Hard to say until you replace those, clear the codes and take it for a drive. You'll have to see if you get any new codes. Hopefully that would be all that's needed.
@@SimpleCarGuy thanks for the answer ;) but turned out to be main fuel pump in tank ;( but code where only for hpfp .... already sorted took few hr to replace but car drive as new no strange noise when engine starts for first time . thanks again cheers
Could you share more details on the connector? 6:12 vs 6:14 timeline seems to indicate there's some type of connector that was added. Looking at the connecting points from 1:30 vs 4:30, the new part seems to have a skinnier connector. Thanks
Sure! My car is a bit of a unique case so I didn't want to confuse people wanting to learn how to change it. My car is 2012, but the engine is from 2015 car so I modified the wiring loom. HPFP (Newer N20 Engines, uses smaller connector) On the N20 engine, the smaller connector is used on the newer engines (2013-2014+, depending on the model of the car) and the bigger connector is used on the older cars. So, for most people just order the one for your year model and replace it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! Yes, I had to change the plug because I’m in a bit of a unique situation, my car (and thus the harness) is 2012, but the engine installed is 2015 (if I remember correctly). So, the plug on the fuel pump is different, but I wanted the newer revision of the pump.
I have codes of rich mixture and I checked my vacuum reservoir and it has oil and the vacuum lines too, the car started to trough white blueish smoke trough the tailpipes. The smoke smell like something weird burned but it is not sweet as coolant. My oil cap and oil smell like pure gas so I am planning to replace the Hight pressure fuel pump and the vacuum pump, do you think this will resolve my problems? , car idle and runs normal its just the smoke and the check engine light for mixture too rich. I need some help please.
When I start my car the MLS dips dramatically it went from 130-95 twice in two days when I started my car and it’s like my fuel economy is off. Idle is rough
Hi and thanks for the helpful video! I also need to replace the HPFP on my N20. What is the difference between the pumps I can get from BMW for +1000 USD and the Bosch OEM pumps (13518604229) which are much cheaper? Are they the same? Can it cause any issues if I don't get the BMW pump? Thanks!
As far as I know the BMW pump is made by Bosch, so I don't believe there is much of a difference in quality. I wouldn't get a Chinese made/super cheap one though. I've had my Bosch one for a while now and no issues at all.
Thanks for the video. Question , did the fuel pump sound like a tapping valve by chance ? Did you have a accelerating issue before the hard start issue ? I’m changing it regardless. Dealer put a belt on quoted me for a low pressure fuel pump and said I needed a tow truck. I drove the car from there took the back seat off and verified pressure my self at the pump. They said I had codes for low fuel pressure but they were all for high pressure and also told me to replace the low pressure pump before they are able to verify high pressure. At this point I know I have good low pressure because the car will start and I can drive it . I do know it doesn’t have the power on the top end I’m thinking there isn’t enough high pressure to compensate for the twin turbos. I also had a turbo block out code. The way I see it the high pressure fixes the long starts and my top end power. All else the car has 194k on it and it is about to be 10 years old so I figured at any rate it needs replacing anyway looking at it as a ware item. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated
This engine only has one HPFP. If you are talking about an engine like an N63, then you'd go by which side it feeds. So, if cylinder 1, 3, 5, 7 is giving you issues, you'd replace that side etc.
My bmw 328i f30 has been giving me low performance I initially thought it was due to needing a tune-up so I did it my car has run out of gas a few times with the predictive miles left in tank notification on my instrument cluster screen saying 10 miles left I've been on the freeway pushing 80mph and up trying to get to the nearest gas station and my car give out on me and I get the system malfunction possible drive train damage if you continue when I turn the car off usually I'll be able to turn it back on and continue a lil bit til I get to a gas station I went to autozone and the diagnostic test said hpfp low pressure in the hpfp system code was something like P154/3 so what's your thoughts I'm trying to tackle the issue possibly by myself or with a mobile mechanic I know who knows cars and engines cars been acting up like this for as long a probably 2 months I've had the check engine light come on and later was stored after one of those events were I ran out of gas around 10-20 predictive miles left in the tank I watched a few videos on replacing the hpfp some said if my vehicle was made before March of 2014 I MUST do a configuration modification to the adapter port I believe or the electrical wiring system if I'm remembering correctly is that necessary and do you believe just replacing the hpfp sensor will be the remedy to my problems?
I keep getting codes warning me of a lean condition in bank 1 p0302,p0304, etc. Along with a rough idle. Cleaned my fuel injectors, replaced the coil connectors (Previous owner was a brute), coils, spark plugs and what difference, drivers like dream. But, still get the lean condition codes every now and then, and a high idle at start up that immediately settles to a steady 900 rpm idle. I am now wondering if it's my fuel pump having trouble keeping the fuel rail pressure steady. Can you advice on this? What should the fuel rail pressure be? What made you want change the fuel pump? My car is a 2015 528i F10 N20, Twin Scroll Turbo.
I believe these engines have a sensor on the injectors that would throw a code if there was fuel starvation. I actually still have a similar issue where the engine starts rough or fails to start if it was off for less than an hour but more than 15 minutes. This was the original reason why I replaced the HPFP, it helped but didn’t solve the issue all the way. I’ll let you know if I solve the issue completely.
@@SimpleCarGuy I've exactly same kind of starting issue as you descriped. 15mins-1hour after drive car starts longer than normally. I've changed fuel injectors, coils, plugs and many other things but nothing seems to help... Did you find any solutions yeat?
No solution, my latest speculation is that it’s the VALVETRONIC SERVO MOTOR, but I have no proof and don’t really want to open the up the engine for something I’m not 100% sure about.
Ok, i found the problem. A mechanic told me that BMW, Audi. MERCEDES and a few other brands have switched to using cheap plastic in everything from pipes,tubes to even cheap plastic connectors. The plastic behind to out gas between 40,000 to 55,000 miles, cracking and fail when under tension and stress. Even worse the connectors are made to work at junctions with O-Rings that are just as cheaply made and just a short life as the plastic used. So, i had the dealership use a smog machine to find the leaks. AND LOW & BEHOLD!! THE ENGINE NERVOUS VACUUM SYSTEM WAS LEAKING LIKE A SEAVE!!!! Small leaks every where!!! At ~60,000 mimes!! $5,400 to replace all the leaking I told to k#$$% A$%#& and went and bought an assortment of high temperature O-Rings from Ebay and threw the dice it woild have the right sizes. At $20 a set i could live with that. But, not >$5k. I also replaced the intake tube, Boost & Charge pipe. I replaced all the soft hoses to the turbo with high fuel pressure lines. The case now runs like a dream, no idling problems, no shaking. Very responsive throttle response. By the way be careful when you disconnect plastic connectors. The locking mechanism is plastic also and does become brittle just as fast and will break if you stare at the wrong way. I spent about $900 on inlet pipe, boost & charge pipe, high temp O-Rings. high pressure fuel lines and a few hoses i broke trying to replace the O-Rings. Everything i replaced, i replaced with over engineered parts. To make the part last and make the car more reliable. Save your money get on youtube and build a smoke machine for cheap and learn to test for leaks. I can't guarantee this is your problem. But, i am very happy with the results and confident the parts ib replace will last me a long time. I haven't found a replacement connector for the stupid OEM German plastic ones. So, i had to buy those new. But, when i do they they are out of there. I hope this was help you. These vacuum leaks cost me a ton and i am pretty pissed at the German engineers. The old mechanic was right, crappy plastic. Regards
@@SFSraptor Thanks for an awesome comment, lots of good information! Unfortunately for me I have already done a smoke test and only found 1 leak that I fixed. Made no difference.
BMW recommends replacing the pressure line between rail and high pressure pump. I didn't change mine, so I didn't show it in the video, but to be safe I would recommend it. Thanks for watching!
@@SimpleCarGuymy 428i sputters when I get on it at high speeds. I’ve got various running lean/rich codes. So not sure if it would be injectors or the fuel pump. Any advice?
Thank you for posting this. Have a 2012 328i been experiencing poor fuel economy, bad cold start and gas odor. Hopefully this fixes it. Could also be faulty injectors?
Absolutely can be faulty injectors. Unless you have specific codes, it’s very hard to tell. Also, these engines have sensors in the fuel system so you’d know if it was fuel starvation.
It’s probably the biggest bolt you will see on the front of the engine. There will be a pulley with serpentine belt on it. Also, only spin the engine in rotation of the engine.
Hey pal, did you notice a smell of fuel from inside the piston area of the fuel pump. Also, does your oil filler cap smell like gas, the oil itself is fine, but there is a smell of gas Thanks Tim
Hi Tim, I don't if there was fuel smell in the piston area, but there shouldn't be as far as I understand. I have no smell of gas from the oil filler cap either.
@@SimpleCarGuy I think I might have an issue with my HPFP then. On diagnostics I have 7.5mpa at idle and 11-17mpa when revved, but this has reached 20mpa. Do you happen to know what yours is on diagnostics? Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻
@@TS-ji1me Unfortunately, I don't remember what mine was, but if I take the car for a ride, I'll check. Have you looked at LTFT and STFT to see if they are at normal levels? You can find this in live data PIDs.
@@SimpleCarGuy oh do you mean injector quantity adjustments? Yeah mine are still within spec, range from -1 to +1 when idle Just wondering what’s causing this warm restart issue, annoyingly it happens rarely so difficult to capture when logging
Hi Costi, If you don't have any issues, you don't have to replace it. Fuel pump can cause different issues, bad acceleration, rough idle, bad fuel economy, CEL etc.
@@SimpleCarGuy i dont have the factory power and on stage 1 the car produce far less hp than normal plus between 3 to 4 k rpm the engine couldnt run without hesitationsm when I decrease the gas from the map the car did less hesitations between the revs.
I have a 118002 fuel air ratio too rich, replaced coils spark plugs and injectors, cleaned maf sensor, nothing helps...do you have any idea to solve it? Thank you.
Hard to tell from a generic code. I would suggest getting a BMW code scanner before anything to see what exactly is the issue. Might point you closer to the actual issue. I would check your charge pipe to make sure there is no leak or crack.
It COULD be the low pressure fuel pump as well. If it doesn't get enough fuel to the HPFP, it won't be able to do its job. Obviously, I can't tell for sure on the limited info, but what is the code exactly?
I'd get a BMW scanner as the generic code doesn't really tell you much more than "It's a fuel system". Once you have BMW specific codes, go from there.
thank you for this you tube i m just coming from tulley bmw dealer in manchester NH i have same issue High Pressure Fuel Pump 2009 bmw 750li dealer he ask for $$2,400 dollar it very easy can i do by myself
thank you very much to answer my question ..do you know my High Pressure Fuel Pump 2009 bmw 750li location ,in your car in tap of the engine ,,,please connect me my email sean73sean73@yahoo.com
SimpleCarGuy did you check the valvetronic? I recently cleaned my intake valves manually and that seems to have helped mine. They had huge amounts of carbon on them at 100k miles. Still get a slight blip in rough idle on warm start, but it’s stopped stalling.
This has been my last suspect as far as the bad start - the valvtronic servomotor for eccentric shaft. The replacement engine only had 30k miles when I installed it, so it's hard to believe that that's the issue, but it's possible. I was also thinking since the engine is newer that it might be different (like the EU5 vs EU6 injectors and my oil level sensor didn't work until I installed the old one). Do you know if there is a way to test it? I wouldn't want to take half of the engine apart without knowing for sure.. unless I'm bored this winter :). Same goes for the carbon, shouldn't be an issue at 30k miles. Thanks for the suggestions, I will start looking deeper into this.
SimpleCarGuy yeah, well it can either be the motor or shaft causing the issue, but at 30k that’s not a lot of wear. The motor is the cheaper issue. Do you have ISTA? - if so you can reset the adaptations for the motor and vanos then run a relearn phase on the servo motor. I done this a few times, it always passed the procedure quickly. After it done this, it used to click for 30 seconds on unlock and lock, but never threw a code. It stopped after a long drive. I saw on a forum that one person had this issue and it was the ambient temp sensor which controls fuel at start up. However, surely his ecu would have giving a wildly off reading on the dash for the C/F so would have been an obvious fault.
@@TS-ji1me So, you made me thing yesterday and I did some experimenting today. To start with I reset the adaptations and did the valvetronic motor limit position learn function (the one that runs for 20 minutes). Everything completed successfully, but after driving the car with Auto Stop/Start, it would fail to start every 2nd/3rd time. I then decided to unplug the sensor/motor and drove the car without it. It started perfectly every time (about 15 times) but obviously with the check engine on. Now I'm not sure if this is a definitive answer, but with engine running in 'default' map it starts just fine. I wonder if there are any other ways to test it to know for sure before I tackle this beast of a job.
@@SimpleCarGuythis is what’s happening to me now and I payed the dealer to fix the last HPFP that went bad last time Bc i drove it with low fuel but when they fixed it I heard cicada sound type clicking for the next 15k miles and now it’s going bad again. They 10000% didn’t install it right but I will be doing it myself now and lucky I get free replacements from FCPEURO 😊
Another question, in this video (ruclips.net/video/CkX8p40x6xw/видео.html) he advises to change the injector rail if we change the high pressure pump? Do I also have to change my rail as well as the pipe connecting the pump to the rail when I go to make my valve cover? Thank you
I checked what BMW recommends and no where does it mention replacing the rail at the same time. If you see any leaks or stripped threads on it, then sure, you can replace it. Otherwise, I don't see a point of changing it. Hope that helps!
@@mateurtv I stand corrected, according to the TIS, it does have to be renewed. I've been driving with the same high pressure line since I made that video with no leaks. Of course, it is best to do as BMW recommends and I can't believe I missed :).
I have codes of rich mixture and I checked my vacuum reservoir and it has oil and the vacuum lines too, the car started to trough white blueish smoke trough the tailpipes. The smoke smell like something weird burned but it is not sweet as coolant. My oil cap and oil smell like pure gas so I am planning to replace the Hight pressure fuel pump and the vacuum pump, do you think this will resolve my problems? , car idle and runs normal its just the smoke and the check engine light for mixture too rich. I need some help please.
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Hello I’m about to do this job on my car just can’t figure out how to crank motor manually?
I put a socket on the Crankshaft central bolt and rotate it. If it’s too hard (shouldn’t be), you can use a breaker bar for more leverage.
Thanks a lot man!
Was Your car cranking and no start?
@@dollaz_dollaz6499 no, I didn't have that issue. I had to change mine more because I did an engine swap and troubleshooting hot engine rough start issues.
The most comprehensive and accurate instructions- not seen anyone else go through the whole process covering all the crucial details from start to finish - many thanks
Literally a huge problem for all 4 cylinder 2.0 turbo engines is this pos fuel pump. Great vid thanks for info on priming the engine 👍
Sadly not even just the 4 cylinder engines, but at least it's easy to swap on these.
Thanks for watching.
Luckily mine has been trouble free for now, but looking at this video I think i can do it myself! Thank you for posting.
I have fitted several of these pumps and never cranked the engine, replaced the rubber gasket or torqued the bolts with absolutely no issues. Just tighten the bolts sensibly and evenly. This engine layout is easy to access, the V8’s are often difficult to access especially on one side. When ordering it is best to obtain the part number of the pump fitted to the vehicle. The number is clearly visible and it’s actually a Bosch unit.
Thank you for this! I am going to give this a try after I return from the holidays. This was a great video.
Hope it helps you get it done faster! Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video, definitely I could do this following your guide. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Been having misfires at start up on all cylinders, according to ista, but the car drives fine. I just get a check engine a week later. I have an n20 f10, 2012, an the low pressure fuel pump had to be replaced 5 months ago. I am starting to wonder if its the HPFP.
Hi man, Question my BMW 328i Gt 2016 N20 has hasitation during acceleration do you think it could be this pump? what are actual sympthoms. I change intake pipe and spark plugs and still same. Thank you for your video.
You have to scan the car to see what the codes are. Could be a few different things and the codes will give you a better idea where to start
Hi! Thx for nice video! How do you know that you need to replace the pump??
There are many reasons including long crank on start up, half engine light comes on on heavy acceleration (malfunction engine light), service engine soon light comes on, hesitation in revs, etc.
My 2012 328i has been shutting off completely when reaching a high RPM, the repair shop told me the HP fuel pump lost complete pressure when tested. They quoted me 1400 on the pump and 600 in labor. Trying to investigate to see the best route to take on this, appreciate the video.
You should be able to get a genuine OEM pump for around $200 and with $20 worth of tools do this yourself in half an hour. Good luck!
Also is it necessary to replace the harness adapter and fuel pipe when doing this repair?
Nope, you can just replace the HPFP and the gasket that it comes with.
The shop I am working with is telling me that when I replace my high pressure fuel pump there are things that need to be "upgraded" so the fuel pipe and the harness adapter have to be "upgraded" as well. Its a couple hundred dollars to upgrade these two items. Have you heard of this or are they just trying to sell unnecessary parts. ?
I checked the TIS for this and none of those are necessary. If you are upgrading to different or newer fuel pump then maybe it is needed
I have a bmw 1 series and mine is quite tucked not sure if I should try myself
Great video. Just doing one tomorrow. Thanks 😊
i just had that today ;( car just stoped and after trying start again will shut down again had rugh starts before in mornings but i tho that was normal as after minute or so engine was running smouth checed codes and its hpfp low pressure 11a002 code
11a401, 11b401,d355f2 , and fuel pump 481b03 motor current too low i ordered new pump and sensor do you think i should change anything alse??
thanks for awesome content very helpful im greatfull
take care thanks
Hard to say until you replace those, clear the codes and take it for a drive. You'll have to see if you get any new codes. Hopefully that would be all that's needed.
@@SimpleCarGuy
thanks for the answer ;) but turned out to be main fuel pump in tank ;( but code where only for hpfp .... already sorted took few hr to replace but car drive as new no strange noise when engine starts for first time .
thanks again cheers
Could you share more details on the connector? 6:12 vs 6:14 timeline seems to indicate there's some type of connector that was added. Looking at the connecting points from 1:30 vs 4:30, the new part seems to have a skinnier connector. Thanks
Sure! My car is a bit of a unique case so I didn't want to confuse people wanting to learn how to change it. My car is 2012, but the engine is from 2015 car so I modified the wiring loom.
HPFP (Newer N20 Engines, uses smaller connector)
On the N20 engine, the smaller connector is used on the newer engines (2013-2014+, depending on the model of the car) and the bigger connector is used on the older cars. So, for most people just order the one for your year model and replace it. Thanks for watching!
Very useful guide, the part with setting up the torque force is very important. Let me ask did you change the plug?
Thanks!
Yes, I had to change the plug because I’m in a bit of a unique situation, my car (and thus the harness) is 2012, but the engine installed is 2015 (if I remember correctly). So, the plug on the fuel pump is different, but I wanted the newer revision of the pump.
hi i have issue in bmw x3 N20 with code 110001 cylinder pressure low ..should i replace the fuel Filter and hpfp kindly suggest.
I have codes of rich mixture and I checked my vacuum reservoir and it has oil and the vacuum lines too, the car started to trough white blueish smoke trough the tailpipes. The smoke smell like something weird burned but it is not sweet as coolant.
My oil cap and oil smell like pure gas so I am planning to replace the Hight pressure fuel pump and the vacuum pump, do you think this will resolve my problems? , car idle and runs normal its just the smoke and the check engine light for mixture too rich.
I need some help please.
This or injectors .
What’s socket size you used to turn the engine crankshaft?
I believe that was a 22 or 23mm socket.
When I start my car the MLS dips dramatically it went from 130-95 twice in two days when I started my car and it’s like my fuel economy is off. Idle is rough
hey boss does it have to be off ground ,or can i be on the ground? need to replace my hpfp on my m5 f10 /:
Im experiencing loud tickling from the high presure fuel pump whe i rev to 1500 rpm down to idleling 700 rpm
Me too I’m thinking of replacing mine with the updated pump
Hi and thanks for the helpful video! I also need to replace the HPFP on my N20. What is the difference between the pumps I can get from BMW for +1000 USD and the Bosch OEM pumps (13518604229) which are much cheaper? Are they the same? Can it cause any issues if I don't get the BMW pump? Thanks!
As far as I know the BMW pump is made by Bosch, so I don't believe there is much of a difference in quality. I wouldn't get a Chinese made/super cheap one though. I've had my Bosch one for a while now and no issues at all.
Thanks for the video. Question , did the fuel pump sound like a tapping valve by chance ? Did you have a accelerating issue before the hard start issue ? I’m changing it regardless. Dealer put a belt on quoted me for a low pressure fuel pump and said I needed a tow truck. I drove the car from there took the back seat off and verified pressure my self at the pump. They said I had codes for low fuel pressure but they were all for high pressure and also told me to replace the low pressure pump before they are able to verify high pressure. At this point I know I have good low pressure because the car will start and I can drive it . I do know it doesn’t have the power on the top end I’m thinking there isn’t enough high pressure to compensate for the twin turbos. I also had a turbo block out code. The way I see it the high pressure fixes the long starts and my top end power. All else the car has 194k on it and it is about to be 10 years old so I figured at any rate it needs replacing anyway looking at it as a ware item. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated
where can i buy the pump for $130. One place in NY was charging over $1000 for it.
See the link in the description. Plenty of options!
@@SimpleCarGuy cool
how do you know which hpfp to change is it the side thats pulling codes for coils?
This engine only has one HPFP. If you are talking about an engine like an N63, then you'd go by which side it feeds. So, if cylinder 1, 3, 5, 7 is giving you issues, you'd replace that side etc.
@@SimpleCarGuy thanks for responding and i do have n63.... appreciate ya a lot
Do you have the part number of this. I heard they revised this
My bmw 328i f30 has been giving me low performance I initially thought it was due to needing a tune-up so I did it my car has run out of gas a few times with the predictive miles left in tank notification on my instrument cluster screen saying 10 miles left I've been on the freeway pushing 80mph and up trying to get to the nearest gas station and my car give out on me and I get the system malfunction possible drive train damage if you continue when I turn the car off usually I'll be able to turn it back on and continue a lil bit til I get to a gas station I went to autozone and the diagnostic test said hpfp low pressure in the hpfp system code was something like P154/3 so what's your thoughts I'm trying to tackle the issue possibly by myself or with a mobile mechanic I know who knows cars and engines cars been acting up like this for as long a probably 2 months I've had the check engine light come on and later was stored after one of those events were I ran out of gas around 10-20 predictive miles left in the tank I watched a few videos on replacing the hpfp some said if my vehicle was made before March of 2014 I MUST do a configuration modification to the adapter port I believe or the electrical wiring system if I'm remembering correctly is that necessary and do you believe just replacing the hpfp sensor will be the remedy to my problems?
I keep getting codes warning me of a lean condition in bank 1 p0302,p0304, etc. Along with a rough idle.
Cleaned my fuel injectors, replaced the coil connectors (Previous owner was a brute), coils, spark plugs and what difference, drivers like dream. But, still get the lean condition codes every now and then, and a high idle at start up that immediately settles to a steady 900 rpm idle. I am now wondering if it's my fuel pump having trouble keeping the fuel rail pressure steady. Can you advice on this? What should the fuel rail pressure be? What made you want change the fuel pump? My car is a 2015 528i F10 N20, Twin Scroll Turbo.
I believe these engines have a sensor on the injectors that would throw a code if there was fuel starvation. I actually still have a similar issue where the engine starts rough or fails to start if it was off for less than an hour but more than 15 minutes. This was the original reason why I replaced the HPFP, it helped but didn’t solve the issue all the way. I’ll let you know if I solve the issue completely.
@@SimpleCarGuy I've exactly same kind of starting issue as you descriped. 15mins-1hour after drive car starts longer than normally. I've changed fuel injectors, coils, plugs and many other things but nothing seems to help... Did you find any solutions yeat?
No solution, my latest speculation is that it’s the VALVETRONIC SERVO MOTOR, but I have no proof and don’t really want to open the up the engine for something I’m not 100% sure about.
Ok, i found the problem.
A mechanic told me that BMW, Audi. MERCEDES and a few other brands have switched to using cheap plastic in everything from pipes,tubes to even cheap plastic connectors. The plastic behind to out gas between 40,000 to 55,000 miles, cracking and fail when under tension and stress. Even worse the connectors are made to work at junctions with O-Rings that are just as cheaply made and just a short life as the plastic used.
So, i had the dealership use a smog machine to find the leaks.
AND LOW & BEHOLD!! THE ENGINE NERVOUS VACUUM SYSTEM WAS LEAKING LIKE A SEAVE!!!!
Small leaks every where!!! At ~60,000 mimes!!
$5,400 to replace all the leaking
I told to k#$$% A$%#& and went and bought an assortment of high temperature O-Rings from Ebay and threw the dice it woild have the right sizes. At $20 a set i could live with that. But, not >$5k.
I also replaced the intake tube, Boost & Charge pipe.
I replaced all the soft hoses to the turbo with high fuel pressure lines.
The case now runs like a dream, no idling problems, no shaking. Very responsive throttle response.
By the way be careful when you disconnect plastic connectors. The locking mechanism is plastic also and does become brittle just as fast and will break if you stare at the wrong way.
I spent about $900 on inlet pipe, boost & charge pipe, high temp O-Rings. high pressure fuel lines and a few hoses i broke trying to replace the O-Rings.
Everything i replaced, i replaced with over engineered parts. To make the part last and make the car more reliable.
Save your money get on youtube and build a smoke machine for cheap and learn to test for leaks.
I can't guarantee this is your problem. But, i am very happy with the results and confident the parts ib replace will last me a long time.
I haven't found a replacement connector for the stupid OEM German plastic ones. So, i had to buy those new. But, when i do they they are out of there.
I hope this was help you. These vacuum leaks cost me a ton and i am pretty pissed at the German engineers. The old mechanic was right, crappy plastic.
Regards
@@SFSraptor Thanks for an awesome comment, lots of good information! Unfortunately for me I have already done a smoke test and only found 1 leak that I fixed. Made no difference.
Thank you for the video. Other videos are recommending replacing also the fuel lines. What’s your view on it?
BMW recommends replacing the pressure line between rail and high pressure pump. I didn't change mine, so I didn't show it in the video, but to be safe I would recommend it.
Thanks for watching!
@@SimpleCarGuymy 428i sputters when I get on it at high speeds. I’ve got various running lean/rich codes. So not sure if it would be injectors or the fuel pump. Any advice?
Thank you for posting this. Have a 2012 328i been experiencing poor fuel economy, bad cold start and gas odor. Hopefully this fixes it. Could also be faulty injectors?
Absolutely can be faulty injectors. Unless you have specific codes, it’s very hard to tell. Also, these engines have sensors in the fuel system so you’d know if it was fuel starvation.
Can you please explain what and where you are cranking at 3:07? Thank you
I'm using the crankshaft bolt to spin the engine. It's the big bolt on one of the pulleys.
@@SimpleCarGuy what size bolt?
thank you brother for the information
How do you find the cranckshaft bro?
It’s probably the biggest bolt you will see on the front of the engine. There will be a pulley with serpentine belt on it. Also, only spin the engine in rotation of the engine.
@@SimpleCarGuy thanks bro
SimpleCarGuy which one is the engine spinning
The crankshaft bolt is used to spin the enginez
SimpleCarGuy Hey man. Thx for video! Doing mine this weekend. Am I correct in assuming engine cranking direction is clockwise?
Can a fuel supply warning be a sign of a bad HPFP?
Absolutely, that’s one of the major clues. Of course, it’s not 100% as it can also be low pressure fuel pump or something in between.
Hey pal, did you notice a smell of fuel from inside the piston area of the fuel pump. Also, does your oil filler cap smell like gas, the oil itself is fine, but there is a smell of gas
Thanks
Tim
Hi Tim,
I don't if there was fuel smell in the piston area, but there shouldn't be as far as I understand. I have no smell of gas from the oil filler cap either.
@@SimpleCarGuy I think I might have an issue with my HPFP then. On diagnostics I have 7.5mpa at idle and 11-17mpa when revved, but this has reached 20mpa.
Do you happen to know what yours is on diagnostics?
Thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻
@@TS-ji1me Unfortunately, I don't remember what mine was, but if I take the car for a ride, I'll check. Have you looked at LTFT and STFT to see if they are at normal levels? You can find this in live data PIDs.
@@SimpleCarGuy oh do you mean injector quantity adjustments? Yeah mine are still within spec, range from -1 to +1 when idle
Just wondering what’s causing this warm restart issue, annoyingly it happens rarely so difficult to capture when logging
No, I mean the Short Term & Long Term Fuel Trim. It’s kind of hard to explain, but there are plenty good videos explaining it.
What size socket is that?!
How is the timing chain replaced?
Could this cause the 11A002 fault code? It's a 2014 118i
It sure can. That's one of the expected codes. I would suggest scanning it with a BMW scanner so you get BMW specific codes.
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Is the high presure fuel pump failure causing hiccup when cold start...when the engine is very cold
It certainly can, but there can be other as well that can cause hiccups during cold start.
Which brand high pressure fuel pump did you use? Im trying to see if bosch is any good on the 2012 328i
Bosch is perfect, I got the oem one which is made by Bosch as well
Hi man, what was The difference after you changed the fuel pump? Better accelerațion?
Hi Costi,
If you don't have any issues, you don't have to replace it. Fuel pump can cause different issues, bad acceleration, rough idle, bad fuel economy, CEL etc.
@@SimpleCarGuy i dont have the factory power and on stage 1 the car produce far less hp than normal plus between 3 to 4 k rpm the engine couldnt run without hesitationsm when I decrease the gas from the map the car did less hesitations between the revs.
@@costelariton9864 That does sound like a fuel starvation issue. Most likely the HPFP, but could also be the low pressure pump.
Great video, as always!
I have a 118002 fuel air ratio too rich, replaced coils spark plugs and injectors, cleaned maf sensor, nothing helps...do you have any idea to solve it? Thank you.
Hard to tell from a generic code. I would suggest getting a BMW code scanner before anything to see what exactly is the issue. Might point you closer to the actual issue. I would check your charge pipe to make sure there is no leak or crack.
Thanks alot for your helpful video😎
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the video. But I have a 2018 X1 . And I took the car to the shop and they want like $ 3000 thousand . I think I can do it myself.
I have a 528 2012 I just replaced my pump and still getting messages of Fuel supply then the car stalls out on my while driving
It COULD be the low pressure fuel pump as well. If it doesn't get enough fuel to the HPFP, it won't be able to do its job. Obviously, I can't tell for sure on the limited info, but what is the code exactly?
You might have to change the control unit
your sensor is bad . replace the sensor and u should be good to go
Hello do you solve the problem jermaine ?
My BMW X6 M present error in OBDII P0087... pump?
I'd get a BMW scanner as the generic code doesn't really tell you much more than "It's a fuel system". Once you have BMW specific codes, go from there.
My bmw dies when I come to complete stops could this fix the issue?
It COULD be, but no way of knowing for sure. Have you scanned the car with a BMW scanner to see if there are any codes?
What’s the codes u got ?
For what we need to change high pressure fuel pumb
High pressure fuel pump helps with issues such as bad idle, hard to start, rough running engine etc.
@@SimpleCarGuy tnt
Tnx
Do we need to change the camshaft follower too?
Not according to the manual I used. But it’s up to you, of course.
thank you for this you tube i m just coming from tulley bmw dealer in manchester NH i have same issue High Pressure Fuel Pump 2009 bmw 750li dealer he ask for $$2,400 dollar it very easy can i do by myself
Glad you found it useful! They charge a crazy amount for what isn’t a difficult or long job.
thank you very much to answer my question ..do you know my High Pressure Fuel Pump 2009 bmw 750li location ,in your car in tap of the engine ,,,please connect me my email sean73sean73@yahoo.com
@@saadaudan4632 it is more labor to do on a n63 not as easy as it is on a n20
Hi, did this fix the warm restart issue you had on another video?
Unfortunately it has not. I have taken the car to a couple shops as well and still no solution to bad starts.
SimpleCarGuy did you check the valvetronic?
I recently cleaned my intake valves manually and that seems to have helped mine. They had huge amounts of carbon on them at 100k miles. Still get a slight blip in rough idle on warm start, but it’s stopped stalling.
This has been my last suspect as far as the bad start - the valvtronic servomotor for eccentric shaft. The replacement engine only had 30k miles when I installed it, so it's hard to believe that that's the issue, but it's possible. I was also thinking since the engine is newer that it might be different (like the EU5 vs EU6 injectors and my oil level sensor didn't work until I installed the old one).
Do you know if there is a way to test it? I wouldn't want to take half of the engine apart without knowing for sure.. unless I'm bored this winter :).
Same goes for the carbon, shouldn't be an issue at 30k miles.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will start looking deeper into this.
SimpleCarGuy yeah, well it can either be the motor or shaft causing the issue, but at 30k that’s not a lot of wear. The motor is the cheaper issue. Do you have ISTA? - if so you can reset the adaptations for the motor and vanos then run a relearn phase on the servo motor. I done this a few times, it always passed the procedure quickly. After it done this, it used to click for 30 seconds on unlock and lock, but never threw a code. It stopped after a long drive.
I saw on a forum that one person had this issue and it was the ambient temp sensor which controls fuel at start up. However, surely his ecu would have giving a wildly off reading on the dash for the C/F so would have been an obvious fault.
@@TS-ji1me So, you made me thing yesterday and I did some experimenting today. To start with I reset the adaptations and did the valvetronic motor limit position learn function (the one that runs for 20 minutes). Everything completed successfully, but after driving the car with Auto Stop/Start, it would fail to start every 2nd/3rd time. I then decided to unplug the sensor/motor and drove the car without it. It started perfectly every time (about 15 times) but obviously with the check engine on. Now I'm not sure if this is a definitive answer, but with engine running in 'default' map it starts just fine. I wonder if there are any other ways to test it to know for sure before I tackle this beast of a job.
Will this cause a misfire
It sure can.
Does this new engine still seem to knocking?
No, no knocking from the new engine. New one is working great.
Where is crank point ?
any difference in noise?
The new HPFP is quieter, yes.
How do you know if the rod is broken. What will be the symptoms?
All common HPFP issues, you may have low pressure, sputtering, hard starts etc. you can also hear tapping coming from the pump area.
@@SimpleCarGuy thank you
@@SimpleCarGuythis is what’s happening to me now and I payed the dealer to fix the last HPFP that went bad last time Bc i drove it with low fuel but when they fixed it I heard cicada sound type clicking for the next 15k miles and now it’s going bad again. They 10000% didn’t install it right but I will be doing it myself now and lucky I get free replacements from FCPEURO 😊
hahaha, you still have the N20 marker on the car, you took the engine from UK?
I'm not sure what you mean about the N20 marker. The engine came from a 3 series when I replaced it.
@@SimpleCarGuy i ment on the cover gasket, white marker N20
Ah yeah. It’s a junkyard engine :)
I've never seen a n20 HPP go bad, strange.
I wouldn't say it's common, but it sure happens.
If you encounter a P0172 code, the chances of a leaky HPFP is very high.
Oh, the V8’s have two pumps, one on each cylinder head.
Another question, in this video (ruclips.net/video/CkX8p40x6xw/видео.html) he advises to change the injector rail if we change the high pressure pump?
Do I also have to change my rail as well as the pipe connecting the pump to the rail when I go to make my valve cover?
Thank you
I checked what BMW recommends and no where does it mention replacing the rail at the same time. If you see any leaks or stripped threads on it, then sure, you can replace it. Otherwise, I don't see a point of changing it. Hope that helps!
@@SimpleCarGuy www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-320i-xdrive-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-12-cylinder-head-with-lid/1VnYwgqXPV article 15 and 25.
I forgot to say that it is exactly the 'high pressure line' and not the rail itself.
@@mateurtv I stand corrected, according to the TIS, it does have to be renewed. I've been driving with the same high pressure line since I made that video with no leaks. Of course, it is best to do as BMW recommends and I can't believe I missed :).
@@SimpleCarGuy We are here to share our information;)
Glad to have brought you this info on the replacement of the high pressure line.
I have codes of rich mixture and I checked my vacuum reservoir and it has oil and the vacuum lines too, the car started to trough white blueish smoke trough the tailpipes. The smoke smell like something weird burned but it is not sweet as coolant.
My oil cap and oil smell like pure gas so I am planning to replace the Hight pressure fuel pump and the vacuum pump, do you think this will resolve my problems? , car idle and runs normal its just the smoke and the check engine light for mixture too rich.
I need some help please.