STEP by STEP Timing Belt Kit installation: 2UZ-FE V8 4.7;Toyota Tundra, Sequoia, Land Cruiser, Lexus
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2019
- #timingbelt #toyotatundra #aisin
This video is a complete step by step process to replace the timing belt on a Toyota 2UZ-FE V8 engine. Most of these engines appear in Tundras and Sequoias up to 2004, but also in Land Cruiser, Lexus and a couple years of 4 Runners. We also replace a whole kit and other parts associated with the timing belt. The kit includes the belt, tensioner, idler pulley, bearing pulley, and water pump and gasket. In addition, we replaced the fan pulley bracket, the fan clutch, the accessory belt, the accessory tensioner and idler pulley and the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Some tools needed include:
Torque wrench
Metric socket set, deep and standard
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Slipjoint pliers, taped
Long handle needle nose pliers
Camshaft pulley holder
Pulley puller
Parts used in the project include:
Aisin Timing Belt kit: part # TKT-021
Aisin Fan Pulley Bracket: part # FBT-002
Aisin Fan Clutch: part # FCT-018
Gates Accessory Belt Tensioner: part # 38488
Gates Accessory Belt Idler Pulley: part # 36026
Dayco upper radiator hose: #56469SJ
Dayco lower radiator hose: #16342MK
Toyota oil cooler hose: #15777-50060
Toyota oil cooler by-pass hose upper: #16281-0F010
Toyota oil cooler by-pass hose lower: #16282-0F010
Torque specs include:
34.5 Nm on the timing idler and bearing pulleys
18 Nm on the studs and 21 Nm on the bolts for the water pump
245 Nm or 181 ftlbs on the crank pulley bolt
16 Nm on the small bolts and 32 Nm on the large for the fan pulley bracket
16 Nm on the accessory belt tensioner
39 Nm on the accessory idler pulley
30 Nm on the fan clutch pulley bracket to the fan assembly
I have had a lot of questions in the comments about lining up marks on the pulleys and engine. Some timing belts have marks and some don't (the Aisin ones do have marks) and those marks can be used and can be helpful, but they can also be frustrating. I have responded as much as possible, but I found a great comment on Tundras.com from member Aerindel and I wanted to share his comment below:
"Those marks on the belt will only line up at one position, after you install the belt, it may take several dozens [many, many] of revolutions to get back to that same position.
But that doesn't matter. What matters is that your cams line up with their marks and the crank lines up with its marks. The marks on the belt itself are just to make sure you have the right tension between components.
Also remember, the crank and cams will not line up with every revolution, its a four cycle engine. It will take TWO revolutions of your crank shaft to make the cams rotate once, or in other words, every other full rotation of your cams, will result in your crank being 180º off.
The important thing is that everything lines up at top dead center [zero mark].
Also, as long as you can turn it over by hand without resistance, you aren't going to hurt anything by trying to turn it over. The danger with timing is that if its off enough that the pistons will hit the valves....but if you can crank it over a few times by hand without hitting anything, your good to go (timing may still be off but your not going to smash your valves)"
Again, very important, check your work by turning the crank by hand to make sure that no internal engine components are hitting.
Please give a like and subscribe if you found this video helpful.
Disclaimer:
The views expressed in this video are the opinions of the author who is not a professional mechanic. The owner and this channel do not assume any liability for injury or property damage incurred as a result of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk! Please be safe when working on vehicles and using tools. No information in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty, or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from the improper use of tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not this channel or its owner. 
Хобби
Taking the time to make a video (in depth) and informational, is a deed done good! I'm sure this video will help those who struggling and unable to afford a real mechanic. So they can keep their lifeline, the only means of transportation. That keeps food for the kids and oxygen tanks for granny! Thank you and thought you should realize the impact of your gesture! Thank you my good sir!!!
Thank you! We are trying to save money as well and your comments are much appreciated!
On god , thought about getting a mechanic and saw it cost 1500 on google for this vehicle so nvm LOL
@@homsandwitch4488 Even as a mechanic in a shop myself I have to refer to videos like this to get the job done right, usually skip to the timing procedure always, everything else is easy.
This looks hard
Looks like I will be paying someone , lol
My man. I just did a timing belt swap on my Land cruiser 100. With your video it was a breeze. I am an electrician. All went well. You are LEGEND.
Thanks, you are too kind! Cool truck you have, Land Cruisers last and last.
Big thanks to you for this video sir. Did a timing belt job on my 05 tundra this weekend. Watched your video 4 times before and followed along as I went. Got it done within specified time frame for a mechanic despite the fact I am a carpenter. Major sense of accomplishment but I couldn't have done it without you.
Thanks and so glad it went well! It is a great feeling to do the job right and save money. Wishing you many more years to come with your Tundra!
My Sequoia has 204k miles on it. It's preparing to get the timing belt, etc done for the 2nd time. It's overdue, I'm nervous about it, I still may have a shop do it. Thanks for the great vid.
I just completed my 2002 sequoia put new water pump and timing belt on and used a couple of videos as guides your was one of them I really appreciate it brother was a tremendous help Thanks again Glad I done it myself
Fantastic presentation! You smartly replaced all the future troublesome parts for future maintenance. You gave a nice sequenced, yet detailed and concise explanation. Gives me confidence to buy this engine in a Toyota.
Thank you so much for making a video this in depth. I followed it step by step and changed everything you did and it went smoothly took me a full day to complete but beats the shops pricing!
That is great! Thank you for reaching out and sharing! So glad it worked well for you. Let me know if there is something else you want covered. Hope your truck gives you many more years of service!
Great job with the video showing the necessary stuff without a ton of extra and sharing the torque specs from the Toyota shop manual was a very helpful detail.
Thank you! We wanted to show the necessary info so you can do the job. Goodness knows the RUclips community has helped us too.
Thank you for the video and your description comments! I was intimidated to attempt this project as I’m use to working on sbc and sbf. This is definitely something I feel competent doing after watching and reading your post.
Thank you! After working on Chevys and Fords, I predict you will like working on the Toyota engine.
Great editing, zero fluff or fighting stubborn fasteners.
Thanks! Fortunately there wasn't much fighting on this job. I can't say that for all jobs.
The timing (no pun intended) of this video for me is perfect. I’ve been meaning to DIY this project. Have RUclipsd many other repairs. Just a little nervous on some of the videos I’ve seen for timing belt replacement. This video was excellent. Very detailed and thorough. Thanks for the parts info as well and the torque specs. I’ve got a buddy that is going to help. Now for the back story. 2003 Sequoia SR5. Honestly don’t know if the timing has been replaced. I don’t recall ever paying a mechanic to do it, think I’m too cheap to have done that. Either way I know I’ve been told by Toyota dealers to replace since I was in MN 11-14 years ago. The guys in CA were telling me the engine will fail soon without new belt. That was 7-10 years ago. 272k+ on her and now just thinking it’s time to do it. Haha. Lots of squealing noises under the hood so looking forward to all the part replacements eliminating that.
I will report back when done.
Roger
Roger, Good to hear from you. Yes, I would think it is past time to replace it. Haha. But it is a testament to Toyota reliability that you have made it that far. Good luck with the work and I will be interested to hear how it goes!
Howd it go?
Thank you for posting this video and taking your time explaining as well! Will tackle this next!
Thanks Kris! Stay organized and take your time and you will do great!
2004 Tundra new timing belt and water pump, coolant yesterday.
I was debating tacking this job for my 4unner's second timing belt replacement @300k KM. but you made it look very doable to any diy'er.
Thank you and glad to help. Set aside plenty of time so you don't rush and you can do it!
Awesome video! No bs and great pace! My only complaint is the Nm thing....Nm, really! Just call the spec in Ft/lbs. Thanks you for the great tutorial 👍
Ha, Thanks! True, we don't use Nm here in the states.
excellent video, thanks for your efforts.
I have two 2000 tundras both with super low miles but (under 70k) but with their age I think a new timing belt is in order.
You made it look pretty easy, not quick but you pros always make it look easy!
I am confident to give her a go.
First gen Tundras are reliable, affordable trucks. Super low miles on yours! Take your time and the job will be well worth it.
Great video. I just did my starter for the land cruiser and With this video I’m almost convincing myself to do the timing belt. Thanks.
Thank you for watching and if you can replace the starter, you can definitely do the timing belt.
Same here! My Dad is a great mentor as well. He has thought me everything I know and still schooling me, especially when working on my 61 Mercury Comet. Thanks for the videos Gents 👍
Amen! Dads as mentors are important and we encourage all dads to be mentors. Thanks for watching!
@@gdupler1966 I’m also passing my knowledge and life experience to my son. He came over last week with his 2008 Tacoma and we replaced rear brake drums including replacing the shaft seals. He was so thankful and saved him lots of money. They were quoting him over a $1200 just for the job we did under $150. Next adventure on his truck will be the front suspension 🤓
@@elgatogordo9523 that is great! Keep passing the knowledge so our kids can work on our trucks when we aren't able to do so!
@@gdupler1966 Will do my friend 👍
Thank you so much for all of your shared expertise..... we need more guys like you to help all of us want to be mechanics,.......thank you so much guys.
Thank you for your kind words and we wish you well on your project! We have been helped by mechanics and DIYers on RUclips and this is our way of giving back.
Thanks for the vid. Great detail and bonus with parts list and torque specs. AND... Loved your dad was in it with you.
Thanks! Making a video with my dad was by far the best part about the project.
Thank you for this video! VERY well explained & thorough. I’m not afraid to attempt this now. I bought my dads best friends truck 3yrs. ago (2001) & he had all of the maintenance done except I couldn’t find a record of the timing belt. I am doing this on Saturday morning. He passed right after I bought it & it’s sentimental & this truck runs superb.
We wish you well and many more years with your truck! Let us know how the job goes. Dad and I like to hear good stories about Tundras.
@@gdupler1966 I most certainly will. My dad is a retired master mechanic but he’s 400mi away. Or he’s be out there with me. I do a lot just haven’t tackled timing.
@@gdupler1966 well, it’s finished & all is fine. Done it Saturday & was ready to put on thermostat housing & was out of silicone lol. Finished Sunday morning. I had your video handy & looked at it a few times. Thanks again for a great tutorial!
@@joelslaughter9056 Congratulations! Good to hear that the job went well. Hard to beat that "I did it and saved money feeling."
THANK YOU for a great DIY video. I just bought an '04 Sequoia with 250K on the odometer, and an unknown service history. Your instructions were impeccable.
One thing I might suggest is to wait until the new timing belt is mounted before bolting in the tensioner. I could not mount my belt onto the gears with the new tensioner installed, even with the pin still in it. By loosening the bolts until it was barely hanging on, the idler would swivel further down into its hole, and the belt then went on easily.
I plunked out some $$ for a great chain wrench. Made immobilizing the crank pulley much easier for getting the timing belt properly installed, as well as for torquing the crank pulley bolt. As suggested in the Haynes manual, it is a good idea to cut a piece of the old serpentine belt and tape it to the harmonic balancer, in order to prevent damage to the pulley. Also, most people know this trick, but in case someone is not aware, putting a large wrench or breaker bar on the crank bolt and running the starter for about 1/4 second is a great fast way to loosen that bolt. (My impact wrench would not fit in the available space.)
Again, most grateful for an excellent video!
Thank you for liking the video! Great tips and your comments can help others who are working on the timing belt!
Aww man ... I watched the entire vid and rewatched writing down part numbers. The best part was the love to your Dad at the end that I was not expecting.
and I just read the part numbers listed in the description. Again, excellent video!
Thanks! If it wasn't for my Dad, I wouldn't have the same knowledge to work on vehicles.
@@gdupler1966 if your Dad was teaching you car mechanics, I am sure he was the best role model teaching most other things in life. What a great man…God bless the both of you!
@@WunKoolKat Thank you, and God bless you and yours as well!
Just a suggestion.....when doing this project you should definitely consider putting in a new radiator. The radiators fail internally without warning and mixes transmission fluid into your antifreeze. Mine just failed yesterday at 144k miles. Apparently it is a very common occurrence on these trucks. The radiator itself is actually pretty cheap at under $200. Definitely an easier job to do BEFORE it fails, because now I have to flush both my coolant AND my transmission to get everything cleaned out again. I was very lucky that I noticed the problem before my transmission was ruined. This time instead of using the internal radiator cooler for the transmission, I installed a separate transmission cooler in front of the AC condenser, so this issue can never happen again, and also to help keep the transmission even cooler, since I tow sometimes. Just a little heads up. Great video......keep those Tundras alive!
Good points here. Another friend suggested replacing the thermostat and that is certainly a good, cheap addition to the project. I have kept the coolant flushed and fresh since the truck was nearly new, but I agree that replacing the radiator is a good idea above 200k and likely a must above 300k. I also like the separate transmission oil cooler for a permanent fix.
Thanks for the video I watched it about a million times😂 I replaced my timing belt on my 2004 tundra this week. It took me 2 full days using mostly harbor freight tools and very little experience in this sort of thing. There’s a video by 1a auto showing a jig using a 2x4 to hold the crank when you torque harmonic balancer that I found helpful as well. I made it with angle iron. Thanks again!
Great! Glad you are an official timing belt do-it-yourselfer! Just about all of us have a harbor freight tool, or 6 or so. I did see that 2x4 brace video. Good stuff if you have to, I was glad mine came off with the air ratchet.
i am so thankful for these "how to" videos, im going to do mine next week...
Thanks for watching and I wish you well on your project! Check out the description and comments for more information if you need it.
Great video ! It has helped me out with my 2004 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L.
Glad it helped!
Thanks old mate, welled videoed & very easy to understand, top job, thanks for showing your Dad, the older fellows have a lot of knowledge eh, cheers to you both,🍺🍺😎😎
Cheers and thanks to you as well! We would all save some time and trouble by listening to some older, wiser fellows.
Great video with awesome picture. Really helped me through this big job . Thanks so much for taking the time to do it.
What a thorough explanation! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Good luck with your project!
Great DIY video. Thank you for the part numbers
Thanks, happy to help!
Thank you for making this step-by-step video. I will be doing this to my 04 Tundra DC in a few days and I will be watching your video along the way. It will save me at least $1k by doing it myself.
Great to hear that you are doing it yourself and saving money. I made the video to help.
Thank you, starting on mine tomorrow. Very helpful!!
Thanks G. My son's Runner is back up and running nicely.
Glad to hear it! Has he had a good experience with the V8 4runner? I have been eyeing those as well.
Right, the bottom line is that the Left and Right Cam pulleys along with Crank line up at their designated TDC marks. The Timing Belt marks are an additional step for accuracy purposes that all timing components are inline (referenced) correctly to each other, in fact after initial line up with Timing Belt marks and the three pulleys, after two rations of the Crank these marks will no longer line up, but as we know the TDC marks on the pulleys Better line up with their respective TDC marks on the backplates of the pulleys. Once again thanks for you video !
Really a great video thank you. The only thing I noticed was at 24:30 the arrow of the belt for L Cam was supposed to be pointing to the cam mark as should the R Cam and crank marks. This is what I attained form the 1A auto video.
Just had this done on my 2004 Tundra $$ but runs perfectly 😀💪🏻
Glad to hear it went well!
Dang, I’m so glad I found this. All the other videos are short and don’t start from step one
Thank you for posting this
Thanks! Some are real long and some are short. We tried to make ours just right.
great video. I could not have gotten the job done without your insights!
Great to hear and happy to help!
Thanks G Dupler for saving money, you know as hispanic we always call up whatever mechanic we can get so we don't have to take it to a shop, today someone recommended me a Mechanic he will do it out of my house the job the dude told me the parts time kit parts plus the camshaft sensor will cause between $1000 and $1200 just parts not labor, I might look stupid but I am not so I bought the parts OEM Toyota Tundra $179.85 Time Kit plus Camshaft Sensor a
$145.00 you save me money, thank you
Great to hear that Luis! I hate to see anyone swindled out of their money. There are honest mechanics out there, but saving money doing it yourself is hard to beat!
I took my time, took me eight hours. Saved me about $1500 in labor.
Nice Toyota Tundra man I my dad used to have a 2003 Toyota Tundra limited edition we did the same thing as you guys did 6 years ago at a hundred and eighty-six thousand miles when that truck got totaled and we replace the timing belt when it had a hundred forty Thousand Miles that truck was the best Shrek my dad ever had he still loves her still in this game now he has the new tundra but he still misses his old Tundra but I truck is the best reliable strong trucks you can get overbuilt over-engineered Kabob Toyota Tundras
Thanks! Yes, I am a fan of the first gen Tundras too. Reliable and big, but not too big.
Thanks for making this. I followed this video while doing this on my 2006 Tundra. The fan bracket was the hardest part for me. That phillips screw on the AC compressor was NOT coming off. haha.
Glad it worked out for you! Sounds like a smooth operation overall. What did you have to do to remove the screw?
@@gdupler1966 I ended up loosening the entire compressor (without fully removing it) enough to free the front lower fan bracket bolt. It was difficult because the front upper AC bolt has next to no clearance since the hard line is right next to it. Just went slow and had to slightly bend the metal plate the screw attaches to.
@@nknasi Good and interesting solution. Thanks for sharing! I was thinking penetrating oil but it was more involved than just oil.
I’ve seen, on the South Main Auto channel, the guy use basically a hand held impact driver that you strike with a hammer to break loose tough philips or slotted screws like that. I’ve been meaning to get one to try it out.
@Drew Duncan That is true. I have such an impact tool from Tekton. It comes in handy when removing phillips screws from brake rotors.
Great video , helped me replace my water pump thanks!
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 2004 Sequoia, which I supposed be exactly the same.
Yes, same engine. Variable timing (VVT-i) was not added until 2005.
Dude this video is top of the line.. Solid job man 💯💯💪🏽💪🏽
Thanks! I appreciate you!
Very informative video,I have a 2004 Mica green TRD sport. It has 119,000 miles went on hotrod dragweek 21 and 22. I will be a participant in 23 w/my tundra. Thanks for the video.
Sounds like a very interesting truck if you are participating in drag week with it!
@@gdupler1966 It is pretty much stock,not trying to set any records.More like a bucket list for me. And the racer's Ive met are great people to be around.Thank's for your response.
@@jamesfogartysr2156 I wish you the best with it! Car folks are a good group in general.
👍 Fabulous Job, Thank You!!
Thank you for watching!
thanks for the instructional video. I am gathering info so I can do mine very soon.
Good deal. Hope it goes well! Watch those extra specs on a 2005 or later.
Beautiful , awesome work much appreciate. 🙏
Thanks!
Awesome video. Very in depth. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Helped us out a lot…thanks! But, those other plastic covers that no one talks about in any video took forever to put together haha
Yes, and don't break them. Toyota puts a premium on its plastic parts. Fender flares for Tacomas are out of sight!
Very good and detail job.thank for your video.
I’m having some trouble with the lower fan bracket bolt underneath the AC compressor re-installing it for some reason it won’t screw back on. Did you have trouble reinstalling that bolt?
I had myself talked into just taking my 4Runner to the shop and have them do this for $1,500 but after watching this video I might give it a try
Great, glad to hear it! Take your time and you will be fine. An extra hand ✋ is a good move as well.
Great video for DIY'er
Wow man thank you!
Thanks for watching!
great video thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching and the kind words!
great way to explain I thing I can do ti now THANK YOU BOTH fron the Dominican Reoublic.
Thank you and we wish you well with your project!
Very helpful. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you very much for the video and I wish you success always.. accept my regards
Thank you and I hope your project goes well too!
Hey!! I have changed my timing belt after it snapped while I was driving but it still won't start?
Awesome details!!!!!
Thanks, hope it helps!
It's cool you have a dad help you out.
I agree. Something all dads should share with their children.
If you take the radiator out how do you know how much atf to put back in ? No trans dip stick
in this case with a 2001 Sequoia do you need to over rotate the crank timing by 50 degrees to line up with the pully th the right prior to removing the timing belt.?
You can do that, but you just need to be close to TDC, when you remove the belt. Then you go by the zero mark at the crank and the timing marks on the cams (not the "T"s). Check out the description and other comments for more details.
I believe those bolt holes on the crank pulley can also be used with a pulley holder like I used on my Lexus several years ago? Correct
Great 👍 video. Very few people can match this job.
Thanks dude ☺️
Thank you! I greatly appreciate you!
Good job thanks for doing that video
Thank you!
Hey thanks for the video
planning to do this on my sequoia 2006...thanks sir
Hi I have an 06 tundra with the 4.7 180K I bout the same kit. 1A auto removed the ac compressor is it necessary? Thanks for making videos and helping people! People don’t understand how much extra effort you put into an already hard install. But add making an informative N short straight to the point videos. To help other save thousands. (Those with qualified experience, knowledge of engine mechanical works and lastly confidence) Its nice to have something to refer back to and 9/10 whenever I ask questions they are answered without any bs. I’m not a specialist in any particular field. I enjoy working on my own trucks. Because 9/10 when you have the block broken down you see other problematic things that need to replace. And inspect areas may break down. Some shops purposely just ignore it so the customer can return 3 months later to supplement their income.
We didn't see a need to remove the A/C compressor. There is a small heater hose near the compressor so it may help with replacing that hose. You would want to be careful not to disconnect the A/C hoses because then you would need a system evac and recharge.
@@gdupler1966 thank you I used this as my reference so far so good I used silicone for easy slide on the water pump
@@KevinSoupy Good deal, I hope the whole job goes smoothly!
How do i get the cams from spinning while i put the belt on
Great video! Very informative. I have experience replacing timing belts on the 3.4L in the 4Runner. Are there seals behind the cams and crank gears similar to the 3.4L?
Thanks! Yes, there are seals but in my experience they have good longevity and I don't mess with them unless there is a problem. The process is more involved than the 3.4 and the cam seals include removing the valve covers and unbolting the cam guides.
Thanks! I watched a video on replacing the seals and you are correct. More involved than the 3.4L. It seems that if you are replacing the valve cover gaskets that would be the time to do the cam shaft seals.
@@craigoller9283 I agree. If there is an issue with the valve covers when you are working on the timing belt that would be the time to take a hard look at the seals.
I took a pool noodle , sliced it down and slipped it on the metal, after taking out the radiator! Makes it so easy to hang Over and work.
What does this service normally run with the new parts? Was looking into getting a used sequoia but idk with this amount of service needed for the timing belt service
A shop would charge between $1000 and $2000 for parts and labor depending upon the place and the quality of work. I broke down my part cost specifically in response to other questions, but my cost for all the parts was a little less than $600.
Any suggestions on how much of this needs to be done if the camshaft position sensor needs replaced/trouble shooting a code P1340?
Found it in a portion of the shop manual. Says to drain the coolant, remove hoses as necessary, remove the drive/serpentine belt, and then remove the upper timing belt cover on the driver's/left side to expose the cam sensor.
Hello I have a 2005 engine does the mark on the cam go on the T ?? Instead of the line like in your video.
Thank you for watching! The simplest answer I know for TDC versus the T mark is that it depends upon the year. 2005 and above you use the T mark in some form or fashion (due to the VVT-i). The instructions from the Aisin kit are as follows covering your 2005:
2005-08:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise a further 50° until pulley timing mark aligned with guide pulley bolt.
Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move forward 25°
Great Vid, but thought I might add that it really isn't necessary to remove the top part of the fan shroud. You can just pull off the bottom part and then slide the rad up through the top with the shroud in place. It will save you a little bit of time and hassle. The radiator on the sequoia is so easy to remove that I pull it any time I need to do some work on the front part of the engine.
Thanks, and thanks for the point on the fan shroud! I will try your method next time.
Great video.
Thanks!
Is this information good for a 2006 Tundra 4.7? It has the same motor I believe. But the manual says to go to a different mark about 30 or 50 degrees past top dead center?
2005 models and later are different due to the VVT-i. Aisin kit instructions are as follows:
2000-04:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
2005-08:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise a further 50° until pulley timing mark aligned with guide pulley bolt.
Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move forward 25°
2009:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until notch on sprocket guide is aligned with mark on oil pump body.
Ensure camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 50° until notch on sprocket guide is at approximately the 12 o'clock position.
Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move approximately 25° counterclockwise and will no longer be aligned.
Good job man.
Good video. How is that permatex grey holding up? I have it but many places are saying red or Toyota stuff.
No leaks or problems after almost a year and a half. Toyota stuff is great, but the Permatex works well too.
Thank you for the video, I’m planning on replacing the timing belt on two 2002 Toyota tundras in the winter.
Now for my question:
I read a comment on another video that said the proper place to align the timing belt is NOT at TDC, it is where the T mark is.
I always get confused watching these timing belt videos because everyone seems to disagree about something, can you explain it plain and simple for me??
Thank you!!
Thank you for watching! The simplest answer I know for TDC versus the T mark is that it depends upon the year. 2000 to 2004 are the simplest and you align to TDC. 2005 and above you use the T mark in some form or fashion (due to the VVT-i). The instructions from the Aisin kit are as follows depending upon the year:
2000-04:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
2005-08:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise a further 50° until pulley timing mark aligned with guide pulley bolt.
Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move forward 25°
2009:
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until notch on sprocket guide is aligned with mark on oil pump body.
Ensure camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 50° until notch on sprocket guide is at approximately the 12 o'clock position.
Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move approximately 25° counterclockwise and will no longer be aligned.
Or loose. The bolts on the fan before removing belt. Wouldnt that work as well.
Great vid. Gave me info i needed
Yes, you are right, that would be easier. More tension on the bolts. Wrench method is good as a backup.
What do you mean you “worked” the timing belt to get the marks to line up? I’m 1 tooth off on my passenger side cam pulley mark. Idk how to get it to move. So what exactly did you work? Thanks #tiredandfrustrated..
Line up the marks and put all the slack in the belt on the side of the engine with the tensioner. Then release that tensioner to take out the slack.
This video is just what I needed today! I'm just ready to install a timing belt on my 2003 Tundra 4.7 V-8 and after watching you have answered some questions I really need help with. So, thank you for that. I can't recall, but what is the starting sequence to reboot computer etc.. Is it..turn ignition to on, then off 2 times then start on the 3rd? I hope this makes sense. Thanks so much!
Good deal, happy to help! If the battery is disconnected for 5 to 10 minutes, the ecm will reset and clear any codes. I haven't done any particular reset procedure after replacing the belt and parts, but it would be good to turn to ignition, sit there for 30 seconds or so, then turn off and then crank it.
@@gdupler1966 Thank you again!!!!!!
My timing belt broke while driving will these steps work the same as far as lining up TDC on the pulleys?
The following is from kovawa on Tundra Solutions.com: "The white mark on the crank dampener indicates "top dead center" for the number 1 cylinder only. The camshafts position, relative to crankshaft position, determines whether or not the pistons are on their intake, compression, power, or exhaust strokes.Since each piston reaches it's own TDC once per crankshaft revolution, 1 piston out of 8 is at TDC for every 45 degrees of crankshaft rotation. If you need to realign the camshafts to the crank..... be aware that the toyota V8 is an interference engine. Valve damage will occur if you rotate the crank without using caution. The following is the safest way to realign the timing belt without risking major damage to the engine.
1. remove the spark plugs, this step will allow you to turn the engine by hand and let you feel for any piston to valve contact.
2. Gently turn the crank to 22.5 degrees BTDC ( before top dead center ) or ATDC (after top dead center). This position will assure that none of the 8 pistons is at TDC, which reduces the chances of piston to valve contact.
3.Realign the camshaft pullies to the respective timing marks.
4. Rotate the crankshaft back to TDC.
5. Install the timing belt on the engine.
6. Rotate the engine by hand a few times and double check the belt alignment.
7. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Provided that you put everything else back together correctly during the reinstall phase, your engine should run fine."
HOWEVER, note that since the 4.7 2UZ-FE is an interference engine I recommend you have the engine checked by a pro you trust before spending time and money on the belt, etc. Valves bend and pistons break, so you are likely looking at needing new heads, if not more.
Awesome video
Thanks!
Sir you are awesome! One question for ya if I had everything lined up she belt was tight, I tried to spin it two rounds to make sure it was on proper but I'm not strong enough to do 2 full rounds would that mess up my lines?
Thanks! If you had the marks lined up and the belt is tight, you should be good. You are fighting compression in the engine so if you want to spin it and double check, I suggest removing the spark plugs so it will turn easier.
@@gdupler1966 thank you my dear
Nice work , juice box!
Thanks, I think....
Thanks!
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Nice!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video ,I have an 03 Sequoia (same engine) and am learning what I am up against.Not an easy job. Can you estimate the parts cost? And. Your labor hours? Thank You
Great job! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
@@gdupler1966 I’m convinced that the dealership “pencil whipped” my timing belt at 100k. After watching videos like this one, I realize that there should have been witness marks on clamps & bolts, etc. Now I know why he didn’t want to do the water pump. They just put a sticker saying the timing belt was done. I wasn’t quick enough to challenge them though. Now I have 255k on my 2001 Sequoia. She is still running and shifting great, but I want to do the necessary maintenance. This video was probably the best tutorial I’ve seen. Thanks for the torque values as well. One question that I have, is the only “left handed threaded” bolt the one in the accessory belt tensioner, or are there others? Thanks
@@mickeydoolittle2057 I empathize with your dealer experience, as one of the reasons I like to do things myself is that I know it is done, and usually done right. If it is wrong, I only have myself to blame. On the tensioner, I believe you are correct about the pulley bolt thread, but we replaced the whole tensioner assembly so we didn't have to deal with any left handed bolts.
@@gdupler1966 thanks so much for the info. You are a great help!
@@mickeydoolittle2057 happy to help, and thanks for watching!
Once it’s tdc you you can just put the belt on as long as the cam gears are aligned correct?
Yes, if you have a 2000 to 2004 you just line up the crank and cam pulleys at TDC. If it is 2005 or later, there are extra steps that have been discussed in the comments. Check out the comments from Lee Malis and Tyler for 05 and later.
Great video and details
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching!
Do you happen to have the part numbers for all the small hoses you replaced?
I added the hoses and the part numbers to the description. Factory Toyota parts, discounts available from online dealers.
Great Video. Just one question. The mark on the belt says CR and it looks like it's on the left side. Is that correct?
Thanks! I paid no attention to the marks on the belt. You can use them if you would like and feel more comfortable, but some belts don't have them and I haven't used them on 2004 and earlier engines. Lining up the marks on the pulleys is the key. There are more details in the description and in a conversation with Dave g in the comments.
This is so awesome
Thank you! We appreciate you and your compliment!
@@gdupler1966 I just purchased a 2002 Sequoia Limited with 213k. I am excited to get the timing belt and other such items taken care of. In this video, you make it so easy to understand. I also appreciated (very much) your putting the parts list in the description. As someone who has tried building a channel with little success, I can very much appreciate the amount of time and effort it took you not only to do the work, but also to film it, put it together and build such a detailed video description. This video is going to same me well over $1000 in labor to do all the work to get the vehicle and tip top like new shape. Thank you for taking the time. I should have been much more detailed in my first comment. You have produced a video that is a real blessing for those of us DIY people.
@@livingwithrob wow! I am bowled over by your praise. Thank you so much! Replacing the timing belt is one of the most important maintenance procedures for these trucks and between that and oil changes, they will last and last. Plus, we all like saving money. Finally, I really enjoyed this project because I worked on it together with my dad. We have worked on various projects in the past and it is always enjoyable working with him. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!