Toyota / Lexus 4.7 Timing Belt Water Pump Replacement Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 26 окт 2019
- Detailed step by step guide on replacing your timing belt and water pump on your 4.7L Toyota or Lexus. This truck is a 2005 Tundra but should be very close to a Lexus of the same vintage.
Check out part 2: • Toyota / Lexus 4.7 Tim...
Parts used:
Aisin timing belt kit: amzn.to/31XlRwc
Red coolant for Toyota: amzn.to/367A2Su
RTV sealer (for thermostat housing): amzn.to/2NkR3QD
Helpful tools:
Dewalt 1/2" Impact: amzn.to/2NkR3QD
Fan clutch service Set: amzn.to/2PqM97g 
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Thanks a lot for this video. I was going to have Toyota do it just to have a peace of mind and be able to blame them. They hadn't inspected the vehicle yet but they estimated $1,400 just for replacing the water pump if that was the only thing leaking. Now you gave me the idea that it would be better to replace the timing belt to along with a bunch of other things. I'm going to get a lot more work done for a lot less money. This will also help me build confidence and knowledge. Thank you so much for your videos. You're super help. Going to start working on it now with your video to reference
Before I had completely made up my mind on this decision I read one comment on this topic which said the guy was giving his truck its second t-belt replacement (the first one being done by Toyota 10 years earlier) when he discovered that the dealership had done it wrong. The timing was off. The truck ran fine but lacked power at high rpm. Said it was a totally different truck after the second replacement.
Turns out the only way you can have peace of mind is to do it yourself
Used this video to successfully replace my timing belt and water pump. This video got me through but I'd like to make some suggestions after having the experience,
My Truck is an 01 tundra, everything is pretty much the same besides the cams
1. The video was pretty confusing on why you kept moving the timing around back and forth. I just lined the timing mark on the crank pully with the plastic dowel to the right of the 0 on the timing cover. Took the belt off and got the new one on without messing with rotating cams or anything. Pretty smoothly 👌
2. Not sure why you kept taking the bolt in and out of the crank pully so many times, that was a bit confusing
3. When installing the lower timing cover you can just bolt down the man peice and that little trapezoid shaped peice can pop in after.
4. The AC unit can be taken off by just removing the bracket
5. There are 4 bolts holding in the Radiator bracket that are on the outside of the Radiator support, easily accessible with the hood up, at least for me.
6. Use clamps on the cams to hold the timing belt in place!
Over all great 2 videos. Thanks man!
Phucken awesome video man. I changed my timing belt and water pump but made 5x mistakes and check engine light has been on for last 2020 year. my smog is up in 34 days. needed this video to teach me correct mistakes.
Praise you man!!!
That 12 mm bolt on the compressor beside the a/c line i used a six point crow's foot and a U joint socket adapter then a ratchet and it worked perfectly, i was so afraid to use just a box end wrench and strip the thing. I am currently working on my 06 and so far so good thank you so much buddy.
I have the same big impact wrench he couldn't fit between the frame and the crankshaft bolt. I managed to use an impact rated universal joint socket to give me the slight bend i needed to get around it and take off the bolt. Worked like a charm, hope this helps someone save some time and money.
Great video, high quality and the perfect angles
Great video and you explain it exelent , I was able to change my water pump , timing belt, tensioner pully, pully, I had to get a balancing crank bamper.
thanks man for making videos like this did it myself going by your videos and had my car running like brand new i appreciate you and thank you very much…
Great work, i watched your TB videos on the 3.0 v6 engines and glad you are putting this one out cuz I also have the 4.7 v8. Very detailed work and now with better video quality and lighting. Thank you very much for your effort.
Thanks for that.
Jameson...great video.....thanks for all you do to help others............ much appreciated
Thanks for taking time to put this up! You make it possible for guys like me to do these repairs/replacemehts
Subscribed!
You rotate the marks to the T. There is a metal dowl on the plastic cover at the crank, rotate the timing mark to that dowl and everything will perfectly line up and the cams are in a neutral position and will not rotate or spring back. The FSM is wrong. Belt will slide right off and right back on.
That's exactly what I was thinking, was that it's gotta be a T for timing
The Potter Wump usually comes in a cardboard box.You can lay it on the box. Draw an outline around it with a pen. Stick the pen or pencil through the bolt holes and make a mark or just mark them eyeball. Punch a #2 phillips thru the cardboard and make holes at each mark.Then when you take out the bolts push them into the holes.They'll be a tight fit and won't fall out and you can keep up with where they go.Where its a nut just write "nut" and stick it under an adjacent bolt. Work-around for CRS sufferers.
Awesome, thank you for your time.
Just did this service myself. When you get to 12:30 DO NOT unmount the AC compressor from the mounting bracket. Just undo the 3 bracket bolts depicted at 16:18 and take the entire compressor off with the bracket. One of the 3 bolts is obscured by another bracket which you have to take off (depicted at 12:02). Do not take off the bolt at 12:15 as that holds the compressor to the bracket. You will have to take off the philips head bolt on top of the compressor to free the wiring harness (depicted at 14:40). This way you don't have to mess around with evacuating the AC system because the metal hose is in the way. There is also no worry about stripping the bolt using an open ended wrench. The factory service manual even tells you to take the 3 bracket bolts off.
Other than that, great video! My Tundra is purring like a kitten.
lbrtdy How exactly, do you go about getting factory manuals? I've tried the internet , but no luck. Thanks in advance for your help.
Wow thats a lot of work
Thank you!!!! im about to buy this exact year 4runner and im going to do this service! you have earned my subscribe.
Great video Sir, Would you happen to have a list of tools and sockets used?
Timing belt don't look bad. I inspect TB before replacing.
instructions for my 2004 Sequoia recommends timing belt must be removed at TDC and not advanced by 50 degrees but I understand there is variation depending on year of vehicle
When you did the step of turning the crankshaft clockwise off the timing mark before the belt removal that is contrary to what the Toyota FSM specifies to do. They actually say to turn the crankshaft 50 degrees counterclockwise before removing the belt. Where did you get your information on turning the crankshaft clockwise off the timing mark rather than counterclockwise? The instructions I got were from the Toyota Tech Info website for a 2008 GX470.
**Update - I just looked at the FSM instructions for a 2005 Tundra and your step of advancing the timing mark to point at the idler pulley bolt is correct. So this step is model and year dependent I guess.
The difference in procedure relates to VVTi vs non. This model in the video is VVTi, as you can see by the metal components/sensors sitting in front of both cam sprockets. Non-VVTi is lacking those components - all you see are the two cam sprockets.
@SampsonGG What I learned from people commenting on the video I made for this job is the "T" position is the safe spot to turn the cam pulleys to so they won't jump when you remove the belt. And, it sort of makes sense. Why did Toyota put a T there if there wasn't a purpose for it? It seems there was a disconnect between the engineers and the technical writers who wrote the manuals.
I just loosened the a/. C line a little rotate the line out of the way it won’t leak then loosen the bolt simple
The dowel that you see sticking out at 17:19 thats to the right of the top dead 0 mark is the place to line the mark on the crank up with. That will put the upper marks on the T on both sides. ruclips.net/video/V6ZKAKOicO0/видео.html
Nice video thanks!! How long did it take you?? Maybe 4 hours?
Good
Please help I just got a timi g belt installed .I noticed about a month later when I took off the timing cover that the arrows was not pointing towards the radiator.i stead they was facing towards the the front window .WILL THE DAMAGE ANY THING PLEASE HELP BEFORE I KEEP DRIVING IT
When is part 2 coming. Im starting this project today. Thanks a lot. Will purchase coolant through your link.
Thanks I appreciate it. I just got the right tensioner in today after several wrong ones. So I won't be able to jump back on it until the weekend. So it'll likely be Sunday evening when part 2 is up
@@AppalachianDIY im a newbie so i probably wont be ready untll then anyway. Any tips on keeping bolts organized? was planning to put them in plastic baggies with masking tape and short note of where they belong. thanks man
I put all the bolts with the parts as I take them off. That way there's no confusion as to what parts they go to
Hi. My cams did shift. Is it as simple as moving the cams back to TDC before installing the new belt?
Which specific year and vehicle was this done on? Some small things are different between years and makes on 4.7.
Hey, where's all the rust? You must not be in upstate New York. Good video. Thanks
best
I cannot remove my water pump! Been trying for 2 days. Timing belt is easy and fast job for me, but the pump is impossible. Any tips
How long total did it take you ??
Next time wait for the oil to be change out and do an oil change when u are at it, the filter is right there.
Will this work for 2004? Especially the timing part? Also my truck overheated this morning. I replaced the thermostat and added coolant then noticed coolant leaking under from the crankshaft pulley at a weep hole in the plastic. Would that be my indication to change the water pump? Thank You.
I say Yes. If water is leaking , out of the cam cover , the water pump seal is broken.
I did the water pump kit change today, it took me all day to do. My truck is 2004 and it has 273,000. Miles.
👍
Does this work on a 2007 Toyota Tundra 2wd V6?
Its a different engine
Will this video work with a 2008?
Yes, it's the same
your camshaft moved on 25:33
I noticed that too. The hex screw moved quite a bit. Wonder how he correct it and if there were any issues after.
Is this why the manual says to move the crank past 0 to have it aim at the bolt?
7:20
Hey great video but i shit the bed and didn't keep track of what bolts went with what part and I don't want to guess at it. Does anyone know where I might find a diagram of what bolts go where ? I started off intending to tape bolts and nuts to the part as I removed them but getting sidetracked during the process starting and stopping I just didn't take the time.Now it's biting me in the a_ _! Oh I'm doing timing belt/water pump/pulleys/drive belt/radiator/plugs on my 01 Tundra SR5 2wd. I've been extreeeemly blessed since I'm over 240k miles on it and everything I'm replacing is the original parts except for the plugs. Anyway a diagram or video would be helpful in my situation getting parts put back on thanks......Robert