This is the best illustration EVER on the entire web. I spent months watching video after video and web sites, man thank you a billion times for making this video.
I watched this looking for a trick and you didn't disappoint. Knowing the best way to deal with the A/C compressor was to leave that rear bolt in was a time saver, I appreciate it.
Thanks for convincing me not to tackle this myself. Looks like a pain even with the engine on a stand! Very good step by step so appreciate your effort.
Thanks Ryan, another fantastic how to video. This one really clears up a couple of things for me (reason to advance timing to 50° ATDC and the fan mount bolts). Again....you explain things very well and give us reasons for the things you do as well as providing helpful tips. We are so appreciative of the time you take to make these videos. Excellent lighting and video quality as well. My hat is off to you.
Hey man, THANKS for this video! I did my first timing belt job, and I couldn't have done it without your 3-part video series. Great video, very thorough, showed me everything I needed to know to do the job. You're clearly an excellent mechanic!
Used these 3 videos today to tackle this job with my 15 year old and 14 year old sons. Took our time. Followed the videos. Used the aisan kit. Honestly it's not hard. Just a lot of little steps. Follow these videos and everything goes smooth. Thank you for posting these. Very helpful.
Really appreciate the videos, and link to OEM parts on Amazon. This will really help when I replace mine this summer. I look forward to your other 100 series videos. Subbed
Thanks so much for your video's. I did a water pump and timing belt replacement. I look forward to to your videos on replacing the gas pump, and starter for the 2000 Tundra. Thanks again.
Excellent video. I watched the old originals with the audio/visual issues you had mentioned, I didn't comment but it did have me cussing at you! :-) I take it all back! lol Thank you so much for redoing the video, it is the best one on the net ;-) The fact that you include torque specs makes it simply invaluable.
You inspere me. You are one hell of a good mechanic I’ve learned alot because of this video and recently did everything to my xsp tundra 2006 thank you 🙏🏻 and blessings brother
Great videos! Seeing the process with the engine out was extra easy to follow along. Also thank you for the torque settings along the way (mostly on the reassembly video) Very helpful, thank you !
Fantastic in depth instructional video, one of the BEST I’ve seen! Backyard mechanic a long time and think anyone could change the timing belt following your instruction👌😘......1st class!
Thanks OTRAMM, I owe you one. This is probably the best walk through guide out there. Took me 16 hours to do, spent a lot of time on that AC compressor bolt and getting my fan off.
I used a peice of wood the held the fan pulley still then the nuts came off easy. The compress had problems too and til I finally got around to loosening the bolt in rear of compressor.
Perfect video. I wouldn't have been able to do the water pump job without it. Be careful reusing old bolts on top of the fan bracket. I had the torque wrench set 3lbs to high and snapped one of the upper bolts on the fan bracket off. That basically means redoing the whole job but I decided to drive it until it leaks. So far so good....
I thought the other video with the headcam was really good, particularly the discussion and explanations. This is really above and beyond so thank you for again taking the time to do this for us DIY owners. If you can do a cam seal video on the VVTi 4.7 tell me where to send the check and you'll have a steak dinner on me!
I've got to do cam and crank seals when I do part two of this video. I buttoned up the oil leak on the bottom end the other day. I just need to find a bit of quite time in the shop to film part two. Hopefully I'll have it done this weekend. There's a Patreon link down in the description for folks that want to help support the channel. Ordering parts through the links on our website helps out as well. Thanks!!
Can't thank you enough for making this series of videos. My 2003 4 runner broke the belt on the highway, and I thought it might be done for. I followed these videos exactly, and it started on the first try and runs perfect! Thanks again for taking the time to make this video!!
@@tannergrubb I did. It felt like a miss in the timing. I took it to a mechanic, and he thought timing as well. We pulled all the plug wires and searched for arcing, but couldnt find anything. Changed the wire for one of the cylinders, as the code we were getting was a miss in that cylider, but it didnt correct anything. I should have guessed it was the belt, but didnt occur to me at that time. Now makes perfect sense. There was no noise, just the occasional bump during acceleration.
The first video wasn't bad, but this one is amazing. Thanks for the help. I think every Toyota manual should say "Just remove the engine", that looks so much easier. I had to pull the oil pump on my LX470 to get the lower AC bolt. No combination of ratchet and extension would let me get in there. Thankfully, I didn't need to loosen the rear bolt. I have no idea how I'd reach that.
I’m about to replace the timing belt & WP on my 2003 Tundra. While I’m in there are there other fixes I should do while in there. Like the 3 seals, new pulleys or tensioners. Thanks brother.
Great video OTRAMM. As always, very informative. One question I have is, the Haynes manual for my '04 Sequoia says to set engine to TDC (as you also shown) before removing timing belt. I've seen other comments about using the 'T' mark instead, which supposed to be the 'Timing Service Position' Is this correct? What does the 'T' mark on the cam gear mean? Am going with the manual anyway but I was curious. Thank you.
The t mark seems to line up with some years of timing belt but not all of them. Follow the manual for your year. I'd trust the manual that comes with an Aisin belt over the Haynes if you have both.
Ive put water pumps in 77 grand prix 73 455 rocket but after watching this video I said being I did those jobs 30 years ago and they were easy I'm taking it to a mechanic.i know I could do this if it was summer time.but if rather let a pro do it because water pumps I put in too an hour this seems like it would take me a day or 2
Great video! thanks for the info. Hey you mentioned parts list on your website- would like to view your product list and purchase items but the link directs to your website with another one of your you tube videos with no list. Any way to view the list another way? Thanks!
It depends on the model, you've got to look it up for each year in the manual. On this one it says to align the timing mark with the center line of the idler pulley.
We need a better view of the front of the engine.... LOL Great video thanks for making. This does make me question a few things as a potential new 4runner V8 owner which is why I'm doing my homework BEFORE I buy. After watching you get to the timing belt with all the room in the world, how difficult is it to get to the other serviceable parts of the engine as in Alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump and water pump when in the car? Or is it a case of you have to strip the engine to get to it all? I've had V8's and V12's that appeared had more accessible parts. Thanks in advance
Access to the power steering pump and AC compressor are decent. The alternator is a bit buried but not too terrible. I can count on one hand the alternators I've had to do so there's that as well.
Fantastic videos, thank you! I purchased a timing belt kit a while back but it’s been sitting in my garage while I built up the courage to tackle this job. Using your parts link it turns out I bought the kit in March (of 2017!). Now I’m eager to give it a go but thinking I might replace hoses, belt tensioner and serpentine belt... Anything else I should consider replacing? (2000 with 170k). Already replaced starter (twice), alternator and coils. Thanks!
I am in the exact same boat. I have all of the parts in the garage since 2017 as well, and I just keep making excuses as to why I cannot get to it. Now I think the time has come to gather my courage and jump in. I have a 2007 4Runner that just turned 180K, and I think the time is now!! Thanks to OTRAMM for the great video and I hope your install went well.
Great video series. It was very helpful when I replaced my belts several years ago. Unfortunately, being a novice mechanic, I may have done a poor job with the seals. I'm going to have to go back in to find the leak, which is probably the crank seal or the oil pump. Can the oil pump and/or seal be replaced by lifting the engine a few inches on a 2WD Tundra? I don't have the room or the resources to remove the engine but I can lift it a bit if it would work.
I've never tried doing it in the vehicle. I've heard it's possible, but I don't know for sure. Getting the oil pans clean enough to seal will be the tricky part with oil dripping down
@@OTRAMM Thanks so much for the reply. That's a good point regarding the dripping. I suppose I'll just have to be patient. Once again I'll be the fool who rushes in where angels fear to tread. I'll let you know how it turns out.
This is a great video series for the 100 Series owners. Thank you. I am avid mechanic but have not had to do a timing belt/water pump job on a 2UZ yet. For the 06/07 VVTi, is the method of aligning the crank pulley and cam pulleys the same? I realize that you stated the location of the alignment is different depending on the model year and I am still in the process of doing my research but figured I’d ask now. Thanks
It's mostly the same procedure. The angle you set the crank to will probably be different. The factory manual and the guide that comes with Aisin timing belt kits show the proper angle.
I used this video as a guide when I did the timing belt service on the 1UZ-FE engine that is in my Toyota Epic boat. It has VVTi and the factory service manual stated to set the engine to 50 degrees past TDC - that will set the timing mark on the cam pulleys to the "T" marks on the heads. This video is awesome and the engine has been running like a top for years after the new timing belt was installed, so I think this is correct.
Thank you, and I much appreciate your explicit instruction videos on the timing belt replacement. It was my first time replacing a timing belt on my 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I followed your part 1 on removing parts, then part #3, putting parts back and torque specs. I would like to thank this RUclips content creator ( ruclips.net/video/M5qzZZO_SE8/видео.html ) for tips on aligning the timing belt top pulleys to the "T" after the top dead center and then removing the old timing belt; I ignored the Toyota's manual's confusing instruction on rotating the crank 50 degrees after top dead center. The top timing pulleys did not jerk. And also, thanks to this RUclips content creator (ruclips.net/video/9M3hFSiKs_U/видео.html ) for removing the other parts before following your part 1 video. For anyone curious, my sequoia top pulleys did not look like those in the video. Mine have covers. It was a miracle. It was the first time my 2005 Toyota Sequoia ever got the timing belt replaced after 105k miles and 17 years. I followed the advice of a DIY mechanic who told me not to replace it before 100k. The factory timing belt still appeared to me it was in good condition. Please do not do what I did; follow the manufacturer suggested maintenance schedules.
Great great video Otramm! My FSM said to go 50 degrees counter clockwise from TDC to remove the TB, the cams moved a lot when I took them off. Wish I had just done what you did! I have a 2004 GX 470. I might move everything to where there’s no tension on the cams. Like 50 deg clockwise of TDC. What does everyone think?
I had to reinstall my timing belt because it wasn’t timed properly when I took it apart i removed the tensioner before turning the crank and the belt slipped. Should I reinstall the tensioner to turn the crank or is that too late and it’s more out of time? How can I get everything timed properly with the belt off?
I don’t understand why you move the crank pulley up a bit pointed toward the bearing? Is this so you can see the key line is lined up in the belt correctly too?
Hi great video I saw the question about where to line up the marks on the cams but I’m still confused.. where can I find the information that would tell me? I have a 2001 Tundra 4.7l and now I’ve heard of thee different positions and don’t want to damage anything. My manual says nothing about the timing belt. Any info will help thanks!
Awesome video. I am going to be pulling the motor from my 2002 tundra next month to do this and some other things. My question is, did you pull the motor with the transmission or did you leave the transmission in the truck? I'm not sure what I am going to do yet. Thanks.
We left the transmission in on this one. Now that we have a gantry crane we usually pull the whole drivetrain. No need to pull the motor for just timing belt though. We were doing the oil pump as well so pulled it for that.
@@OTRAMM cool. I am going to be doing more than a timing belt. I want to replace all the gaskets. Have the heads checked and put in a new oil pump. As well as long tube headers. I figure it will be easier to pull the motor to do what I want.
I have a 2006 Lexus lx470, what position do I set the timing before I remove belt? You mention that there are different instructions for specific years, please help, thanks
Great vid, but after following step by step, when radiator almost full, fluid came pouring out everywhere underneath. Obviously get the joy of tearing back down, but where should i look? Lubed o ring and seemed to slide in easily? Other places??? Any advice?
The o-rings would be the first places I'd look. I'd also make sure that the gasket surface on the block was spotless. I've seen folks miss old gasket around the studs and it cause a leak.
I don't remember what year it was. It's mostly the same as vvt-i. You won't be doing cam seals and the rotation where the belt is removed is different.
Here are the time stamps for the video above. I really thank Otram for making this video. Full instructions can be seen here - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eWefvjUPPUlQPfpIOQ1JHir8111iMPO0/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118253069347740492478&rtpof=true&sd=true 1. Remove Fan ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 2. Fan Brackets 3. Serpentine Belt ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html - Remove Fan bracket Pully off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 4. Remove coolant pipe with Hose tubes with attached from water pump to Oil housing/filter ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 5. Thermostat Housing ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 6. Top Water outlet nuts - Then wiggle/twist it out cause it maybe stuck ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 7. Remove Drive belt Idler pulley 8. Left Cam plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 9. Power steering pump - No need to take it out, just remove 3 bolts and Swing it to the side ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 10. Alternator - Disconnect negative terminal of battery 1st - Slide it off & Swing it to the side as well ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 11. Upper left/middle plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 12. Tensioner - slides off studs ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 13. unplug Cam Position sensor - Right side and remove rubber grommit ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 14. Right Cam Gear plastic cover with cam position sensor wire fishing ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html "15. Remove Fan bracket - Remove AC comp Side bolts in front - 2x14mm 4in Top and bottom front bolts (see pics) Loosen back bolt on AC to pivot it enough to remove fan bracket" "ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (Ac bolt locations) ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (Back bolt location - DO NOT TAKE IT OUT - Just loosen it)+ ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (top front bolt location)" 16. - Loosen AC compressor ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 17. HERE YOU ALIGN THE TDC (Top Dead center) ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 18. Remove Crankshaft pulley ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 19. Remove camshaft timing plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 20. Remove timing sensor guide plate ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 21. Removing Plastic Triangle ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 22. Remove the Hydraulic timing belt tensioner ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 24. Remove Timing belt off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 25. Remove Idler pully #2 (Red one) ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 26. Remove Tensioner Idler Pully #1 black - above timing belt tensioner ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 27. Slide the Timing belt pully off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 28. Remove Cam Sensor trigger ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html 29. Remove Water Pump - need to twist/wiggle it out at times ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
Thanks for the video!! Excellent info. I bought a 2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 4.7 with 160K miles 2 weeks ago. The previous owner replaced the timing belt in 2012 at 110K miles. Should I replace it again or wait until 200k miles?? If so, what is your opinion on those timing belt kits they sell online for about $300?? What other components do you suggest to replace on this engine to make it last to at least 500k miles?? thanks!!
We use the Aisin timing belt kits. They're high quality Japanese parts. There's a link to them on Amazon on our website. The belts are 90k or 5 years for the interval. Technically it's due now by age. Depending on what was replaced in the last job and the quality you may be OK to go to 200k but it's hard to really know for sure. Regular maintenance is all they really seem to need.
@@OTRAMM glad i ran across this video. I have the same 2003 4.7L 4runner that I think broke the belt going down the highway. Is it toast, or should I attempt to put on a new belt? Engine has 289k miles.
It's not a fun job at all since the oil pans have to come off before the oil pump, which meant pulling the engine out. Not sure on a 4Runner if you can snake the pans out with the engine still in.
So..I have to remove my engine to replace the oil pump bracket? The hole for lower alternator screw is attached to the oil pump and it broke off in the bracket. I ordered a new oil pump but after hearing you say dropping the oil pan to get the job done requires engine removal I feel like I just got kicked in the gut
It may be possible to do it in the truck but I don't see how. The oil pans have to come off to get the pump off. You'd have to lift the engine up pretty high to get enough clearance.
You say do not remove this bolt in relation to lower ac compressor bolt. Why is this? What happens if it’s removed? What is a realistic completion time for this job assuming engine still in vehicle?
This is the best illustration EVER on the entire web. I spent months watching video after video and web sites, man thank you a billion times for making this video.
I watched this looking for a trick and you didn't disappoint. Knowing the best way to deal with the A/C compressor was to leave that rear bolt in was a time saver, I appreciate it.
Thanks for convincing me not to tackle this myself. Looks like a pain even with the engine on a stand! Very good step by step so appreciate your effort.
Best land cruiser maintenance & tips videos on all of RUclips! Keep up the amazing work and thank you.
Thanks Ryan, another fantastic how to video. This one really clears up a couple of things for me (reason to advance timing to 50° ATDC and the fan mount bolts). Again....you explain things very well and give us reasons for the things you do as well as providing helpful tips. We are so appreciative of the time you take to make these videos. Excellent lighting and video quality as well. My hat is off to you.
Can’t get any better than this! Great job and keep them coming
Awesome video brother! Much easier to see and understand the removal and timing settings! Thanks!
Awesome video 👍🏻 So incredibly helpful! Thank you
Prepping to do this myself in the next week or so.
Hey man, THANKS for this video! I did my first timing belt job, and I couldn't have done it without your 3-part video series. Great video, very thorough, showed me everything I needed to know to do the job. You're clearly an excellent mechanic!
Great video, one of my first project of 2019 will be this, already got the parts thru Amazon using your web page, thanks
Used these 3 videos today to tackle this job with my 15 year old and 14 year old sons. Took our time. Followed the videos. Used the aisan kit. Honestly it's not hard. Just a lot of little steps. Follow these videos and everything goes smooth. Thank you for posting these. Very helpful.
Really appreciate the videos, and link to OEM parts on Amazon. This will really help when I replace mine this summer. I look forward to your other 100 series videos. Subbed
Thanks so much for your video's. I did a water pump and timing belt replacement. I look forward to to your videos on replacing the gas pump, and starter for the 2000 Tundra. Thanks again.
Excellent video.
I watched the old originals with the audio/visual issues you had mentioned, I didn't comment but it did have me cussing at you! :-)
I take it all back! lol
Thank you so much for redoing the video, it is the best one on the net ;-) The fact that you include torque specs makes it simply invaluable.
Great video and very hard engine to work on so it needs skilled man like OTRAMM ,THANKS A LOT 👍.
Nice! I'm not sure I want to tackle this in my 2000. But this helps.
You inspere me. You are one hell of a good mechanic I’ve learned alot because of this video and recently did everything to my xsp tundra 2006 thank you 🙏🏻 and blessings brother
Thank you for this video! It's way, way better than the part1 when you had camera on your head! Thanks again!
Excellent job. I just tore down my daughters 2001 Toyota Sequoia. Going to part 2 for the replacement.
awesome resource bloke I'm halfway through the job and wish I'd watched this first 😁
great job👍
Great videos! Seeing the process with the engine out was extra easy to follow along. Also thank you for the torque settings along the way (mostly on the reassembly video) Very helpful, thank you !
Boy you're some talent mate! Excellent video! Stay safe
Fantastic in depth instructional video, one of the BEST I’ve seen!
Backyard mechanic a long time and think anyone could change the timing belt following your instruction👌😘......1st class!
Man I really appreciate these videos!!! Just about finished with mine
Very detailed and helpful. Thank you
Very nice explanation and nice video! This helps alot!
Thanks OTRAMM, I owe you one. This is probably the best walk through guide out there. Took me 16 hours to do, spent a lot of time on that AC compressor bolt and getting my fan off.
I used a peice of wood the held the fan pulley still then the nuts came off easy. The compress had problems too and til I finally got around to loosening the bolt in rear of compressor.
You are awesome! i like the way ypu showed it. thank you so much.
See you in February 👍
Best video, thank you SO much - you really enlightened the subject 🙏🙏
Very informative and clear
Wanted to say thanks. I was able to do this job on my own without any issues with the step by step videos. It saved me around $500.
Awesome, glad the videos were helpful!
Not worth it. Id glady pay the 1,000 for this job
I’d gladly pay $1,000 too, but the dealer quoted $2,000 🥴
Perfect video. I wouldn't have been able to do the water pump job without it. Be careful reusing old bolts on top of the fan bracket. I had the torque wrench set 3lbs to high and snapped one of the upper bolts on the fan bracket off. That basically means redoing the whole job but I decided to drive it until it leaks. So far so good....
hey man I'm currently doing this job. I cannot for the life of me get the crankshaft bolt off. help ,e plz
This is the best video by far!! Thank you young man!
I thought the other video with the headcam was really good, particularly the discussion and explanations. This is really above and beyond so thank you for again taking the time to do this for us DIY owners. If you can do a cam seal video on the VVTi 4.7 tell me where to send the check and you'll have a steak dinner on me!
I've got to do cam and crank seals when I do part two of this video. I buttoned up the oil leak on the bottom end the other day. I just need to find a bit of quite time in the shop to film part two. Hopefully I'll have it done this weekend. There's a Patreon link down in the description for folks that want to help support the channel. Ordering parts through the links on our website helps out as well. Thanks!!
Thanks very much Mr ,very helpful
most excellent video....thank you so much and much appreciated.......great job.....
Can't thank you enough for making this series of videos. My 2003 4 runner broke the belt on the highway, and I thought it might be done for. I followed these videos exactly, and it started on the first try and runs perfect! Thanks again for taking the time to make this video!!
Awesome, glad they helped!!!
Prior to the timing belt failure, did you notice any distinct or unusual noises from the engine?
@@tannergrubb I did. It felt like a miss in the timing. I took it to a mechanic, and he thought timing as well. We pulled all the plug wires and searched for arcing, but couldnt find anything. Changed the wire for one of the cylinders, as the code we were getting was a miss in that cylider, but it didnt correct anything. I should have guessed it was the belt, but didnt occur to me at that time. Now makes perfect sense. There was no noise, just the occasional bump during acceleration.
@@tannergrubb Just a loud KA-BOOM kinda sound and smoke, lot's of smoke.
You were lucky! Interference engines are unforgiving!!!
My goodness why didn't these things have a timing chan ? It's like taking apart a giant micro chip. Great vid by the way dude
Great video thanks
Thank you so much, man
Great video. Thank you.
Best timing belt video on you tube. Excellent work guys.
Did this job by myself watching your step by step video. It was the best did the complete front of my motor. 300,000 miles and still going
Awesome, glad to hear the videos were useful!
Best video yet I’ve watched great video my friend
12:30 good tip DONT NOT REMOVE save yourself a headache!
Thanks brother...a great video...
The first video wasn't bad, but this one is amazing. Thanks for the help. I think every Toyota manual should say "Just remove the engine", that looks so much easier.
I had to pull the oil pump on my LX470 to get the lower AC bolt. No combination of ratchet and extension would let me get in there. Thankfully, I didn't need to loosen the rear bolt. I have no idea how I'd reach that.
Thanks mate
Super good tutorial!!
Thank you!
Thank you
Best video I have ever seen
Awesome, thanks!!
I learned the hard way to go ahead and replace the fan bracket when getting a new timing belt. It's not that expensive.
Yeah, we've started adding it to all our estimates.
Cheers appreciate
I was struggling trying to figure out how to take that fan bracket off really getting frustrated hopefully I can locate those 2 bolts now! Thanks
I have the 4.7 engine on a 2006. Now I understand why the dealer recommends replacing the water pump while doing the timing belt. Its in there.
I never have an issue taking things apart. Putting it back is another story.
I’m about to replace the timing belt & WP on my 2003 Tundra. While I’m in there are there other fixes I should do while in there. Like the 3 seals, new pulleys or tensioners. Thanks brother.
Great video OTRAMM. As always, very informative. One question I have is, the Haynes manual for my '04 Sequoia says to set engine to TDC (as you also shown) before removing timing belt. I've seen other comments about using the 'T' mark instead, which supposed to be the 'Timing Service Position' Is this correct? What does the 'T' mark on the cam gear mean? Am going with the manual anyway but I was curious. Thank you.
The t mark seems to line up with some years of timing belt but not all of them. Follow the manual for your year. I'd trust the manual that comes with an Aisin belt over the Haynes if you have both.
Ive put water pumps in 77 grand prix 73 455 rocket but after watching this video I said being I did those jobs 30 years ago and they were easy I'm taking it to a mechanic.i know I could do this if it was summer time.but if rather let a pro do it because water pumps I put in too an hour this seems like it would take me a day or 2
First time around it's probably a days work. After a few dozen it's a few hours. It's not a terrible job.
I completely remove the AC before I saw this video. Now I'm trying to reinstall the AC 😅 yeah I'm having a hell of a time.
Great video! thanks for the info. Hey you mentioned parts list on your website- would like to view your product list and purchase items but the link directs to your website with another one of your you tube videos with no list. Any way to view the list another way? Thanks!
Unfortunately, when we switched website providers last year all the list pages were lost. Sorry.
The 50 degree mark is on the casting behind the crank pulley not the belt tensioner.
It depends on the model, you've got to look it up for each year in the manual. On this one it says to align the timing mark with the center line of the idler pulley.
We need a better view of the front of the engine.... LOL Great video thanks for making. This does make me question a few things as a potential new 4runner V8 owner which is why I'm doing my homework BEFORE I buy. After watching you get to the timing belt with all the room in the world, how difficult is it to get to the other serviceable parts of the engine as in Alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump and water pump when in the car? Or is it a case of you have to strip the engine to get to it all? I've had V8's and V12's that appeared had more accessible parts. Thanks in advance
Access to the power steering pump and AC compressor are decent. The alternator is a bit buried but not too terrible. I can count on one hand the alternators I've had to do so there's that as well.
Hi there,
Thanks a lot for such a detailed videos.
Quick question.
Is the water pump impeller made out of plastic?
Thanks
Yep, they're plastic. I've never seen an impeller fail on one though.
@@OTRAMM Much OBLIGED
Fantastic videos, thank you! I purchased a timing belt kit a while back but it’s been sitting in my garage while I built up the courage to tackle this job. Using your parts link it turns out I bought the kit in March (of 2017!). Now I’m eager to give it a go but thinking I might replace hoses, belt tensioner and serpentine belt... Anything else I should consider replacing? (2000 with 170k). Already replaced starter (twice), alternator and coils. Thanks!
You might consider changing the fan pulley bracket. The serpentine belt and tensioner couldn't hurt. Make sure you do the heater tees.
I am in the exact same boat. I have all of the parts in the garage since 2017 as well, and I just keep making excuses as to why I cannot get to it. Now I think the time has come to gather my courage and jump in. I have a 2007 4Runner that just turned 180K, and I think the time is now!! Thanks to OTRAMM for the great video and I hope your install went well.
@@MajorSporto worst can happen is either it blows and you can get new truck, or either it blows again and take it to shop and fix.
❤️❤️❤️
Great video series. It was very helpful when I replaced my belts several years ago. Unfortunately, being a novice mechanic, I may have done a poor job with the seals. I'm going to have to go back in to find the leak, which is probably the crank seal or the oil pump. Can the oil pump and/or seal be replaced by lifting the engine a few inches on a 2WD Tundra? I don't have the room or the resources to remove the engine but I can lift it a bit if it would work.
I've never tried doing it in the vehicle. I've heard it's possible, but I don't know for sure. Getting the oil pans clean enough to seal will be the tricky part with oil dripping down
@@OTRAMM Thanks so much for the reply. That's a good point regarding the dripping. I suppose I'll just have to be patient. Once again I'll be the fool who rushes in where angels fear to tread. I'll let you know how it turns out.
This is a great video series for the 100 Series owners. Thank you.
I am avid mechanic but have not had to do a timing belt/water pump job on a 2UZ yet. For the 06/07 VVTi, is the method of aligning the crank pulley and cam pulleys the same? I realize that you stated the location of the alignment is different depending on the model year and I am still in the process of doing my research but figured I’d ask now. Thanks
It's mostly the same procedure. The angle you set the crank to will probably be different. The factory manual and the guide that comes with Aisin timing belt kits show the proper angle.
I used this video as a guide when I did the timing belt service on the 1UZ-FE engine that is in my Toyota Epic boat. It has VVTi and the factory service manual stated to set the engine to 50 degrees past TDC - that will set the timing mark on the cam pulleys to the "T" marks on the heads. This video is awesome and the engine has been running like a top for years after the new timing belt was installed, so I think this is correct.
Thank you, and I much appreciate your explicit instruction videos on the timing belt replacement. It was my first time replacing a timing belt on my 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I followed your part 1 on removing parts, then part #3, putting parts back and torque specs.
I would like to thank this RUclips content creator ( ruclips.net/video/M5qzZZO_SE8/видео.html ) for tips on aligning the timing belt top pulleys to the "T" after the top dead center and then removing the old timing belt; I ignored the Toyota's manual's confusing instruction on rotating the crank 50 degrees after top dead center. The top timing pulleys did not jerk.
And also, thanks to this RUclips content creator (ruclips.net/video/9M3hFSiKs_U/видео.html ) for removing the other parts before following your part 1 video. For anyone curious, my sequoia top pulleys did not look like those in the video. Mine have covers.
It was a miracle. It was the first time my 2005 Toyota Sequoia ever got the timing belt replaced after 105k miles and 17 years. I followed the advice of a DIY mechanic who told me not to replace it before 100k. The factory timing belt still appeared to me it was in good condition. Please do not do what I did; follow the manufacturer suggested maintenance schedules.
Great great video Otramm! My FSM said to go 50 degrees counter clockwise from TDC to remove the TB, the cams moved a lot when I took them off. Wish I had just done what you did! I have a 2004 GX 470. I might move everything to where there’s no tension on the cams. Like 50 deg clockwise of TDC. What does everyone think?
The degree of rotation changes by year.
@@OTRAMM Are you willing to say what it is for a 2006 4.7? I'll dance at your next wedding if you do.
I had to reinstall my timing belt because it wasn’t timed properly when I took it apart i removed the tensioner before turning the crank and the belt slipped. Should I reinstall the tensioner to turn the crank or is that too late and it’s more out of time? How can I get everything timed properly with the belt off?
Hi is 4.7 torque spec all the same I have 04 tundra thanks
"Whoever was in here last apparently did not own a torque wrench" LOL!
I don’t understand why you move the crank pulley up a bit pointed toward the bearing? Is this so you can see the key line is lined up in the belt correctly too?
Hi great video I saw the question about where to line up the marks on the cams but I’m still confused.. where can I find the information that would tell me? I have a 2001 Tundra 4.7l and now I’ve heard of thee different positions and don’t want to damage anything. My manual says nothing about the timing belt. Any info will help thanks!
The Aisin timing belt kits come with instructions that show the marks. Otherwise you'd need the factory service manual.
shoot it's now 6/3/21 and my local dealer wanted $1600 plus new hoses and thermostat for a total out the door price of $1744.33
Hi do you have any videos showing how to pull the cylinder head or replacing the head gasket on a 2006 toyota sequoia 4.7?
I don't. We haven't had to do one get. Sorry.
I came here looking to see if I could out where the camshaft position sensor is located
Awesome video. I am going to be pulling the motor from my 2002 tundra next month to do this and some other things. My question is, did you pull the motor with the transmission or did you leave the transmission in the truck? I'm not sure what I am going to do yet. Thanks.
We left the transmission in on this one. Now that we have a gantry crane we usually pull the whole drivetrain. No need to pull the motor for just timing belt though. We were doing the oil pump as well so pulled it for that.
@@OTRAMM cool. I am going to be doing more than a timing belt. I want to replace all the gaskets. Have the heads checked and put in a new oil pump. As well as long tube headers. I figure it will be easier to pull the motor to do what I want.
I have a 2006 Lexus lx470, what position do I set the timing before I remove belt? You mention that there are different instructions for specific years, please help, thanks
You need a manual for the specifics. If you get an Aisin timing belt kit it comes with a decent guide.
Is there a certain way the serpentine. Belt goes on I seen you made a mark never knew there was a correct way just wondering
I mark them so that they go back on the same direction they came off. On a new one it doesn't matter.
Great vid, but after following step by step, when radiator almost full, fluid came pouring out everywhere underneath. Obviously get the joy of tearing back down, but where should i look? Lubed o ring and seemed to slide in easily? Other places??? Any advice?
The o-rings would be the first places I'd look. I'd also make sure that the gasket surface on the block was spotless. I've seen folks miss old gasket around the studs and it cause a leak.
Any info about 50° on my 2004 4Runner 4.7 if it is before or after dead center I'm so confused sorry for the dumb question thanks
How did you go about cleaning the area once all disassembled? What cleaner did you use?
I rinsed it down with brake clean and a small nylon brush.
Oh, so that’s how the mouse got in the timing cover!
What year model was this 4.7? Is there any difference in this job with the VVT version of the 2UZ?
I don't remember what year it was. It's mostly the same as vvt-i. You won't be doing cam seals and the rotation where the belt is removed is different.
What's the crank pulley holder tool number? and does it work for all iterations of the 4.7L?
I don't know the number off the top of my head, but there's a link on our website. www.otramm.com/47-liter-timing-belt-replacement.html
Here are the time stamps for the video above. I really thank Otram for making this video.
Full instructions can be seen here - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eWefvjUPPUlQPfpIOQ1JHir8111iMPO0/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118253069347740492478&rtpof=true&sd=true
1. Remove Fan ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
2. Fan Brackets
3. Serpentine Belt ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
- Remove Fan bracket Pully off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
4. Remove coolant pipe with Hose tubes with attached from water pump to Oil housing/filter ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
5. Thermostat Housing ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
6. Top Water outlet nuts - Then wiggle/twist it out cause it maybe stuck ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
7. Remove Drive belt Idler pulley
8. Left Cam plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
9. Power steering pump - No need to take it out, just remove 3 bolts and Swing it to the side ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
10. Alternator - Disconnect negative terminal of battery 1st - Slide it off & Swing it to the side as well ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
11. Upper left/middle plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
12. Tensioner - slides off studs ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
13. unplug Cam Position sensor - Right side and remove rubber grommit ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
14. Right Cam Gear plastic cover with cam position sensor wire fishing ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
"15. Remove Fan bracket -
Remove AC comp Side bolts in front
- 2x14mm 4in Top and bottom front bolts (see pics)
Loosen back bolt on AC to pivot it enough to remove fan bracket" "ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (Ac bolt locations)
ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (Back bolt location - DO NOT TAKE IT OUT - Just loosen it)+
ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html (top front bolt location)"
16. - Loosen AC compressor ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
17. HERE YOU ALIGN THE TDC (Top Dead center) ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
18. Remove Crankshaft pulley ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
19. Remove camshaft timing plastic cover ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
20. Remove timing sensor guide plate ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
21. Removing Plastic Triangle ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
22. Remove the Hydraulic timing belt tensioner ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
24. Remove Timing belt off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
25. Remove Idler pully #2 (Red one) ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
26. Remove Tensioner Idler Pully #1 black - above timing belt tensioner ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
27. Slide the Timing belt pully off ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
28. Remove Cam Sensor trigger ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
29. Remove Water Pump - need to twist/wiggle it out at times ruclips.net/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/видео.html
You’re fucking awesome thanks so much
Thanks for the video!! Excellent info. I bought a 2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 4.7 with 160K miles 2 weeks ago. The previous owner replaced the timing belt in 2012 at 110K miles. Should I replace it again or wait until 200k miles?? If so, what is your opinion on those timing belt kits they sell online for about $300?? What other components do you suggest to replace on this engine to make it last to at least 500k miles?? thanks!!
We use the Aisin timing belt kits. They're high quality Japanese parts. There's a link to them on Amazon on our website. The belts are 90k or 5 years for the interval. Technically it's due now by age. Depending on what was replaced in the last job and the quality you may be OK to go to 200k but it's hard to really know for sure. Regular maintenance is all they really seem to need.
@@OTRAMM thanks!
@@OTRAMM glad i ran across this video. I have the same 2003 4.7L 4runner that I think broke the belt going down the highway. Is it toast, or should I attempt to put on a new belt? Engine has 289k miles.
I've heard of them surviving belt breaks. I've seen one that did and one that was toast.
which harmonic balancer did you use? cant find it on your links
The balance puller is an OTC 4531
Is this the same on a 2006?
so how was the oil pump reseal as i need to take one off on a 04 4runner because of the lower alternator bolt you spoke of .
It's not a fun job at all since the oil pans have to come off before the oil pump, which meant pulling the engine out. Not sure on a 4Runner if you can snake the pans out with the engine still in.
On a 2000 Land Cruiser is it Top Dead Center or the specific degrees past top dead center?😗
You need the manual or the guide that comes with the Aisin kits for the specifics by year.
Would you recommend other mechanics to pull then engine for this job to save time and grief ?
It's an easy job in the truck. We only pulled the engine because we needed to to change a leaking oil pump.
@@OTRAMM thanks mate
So..I have to remove my engine to replace the oil pump bracket?
The hole for lower alternator screw is attached to the oil pump and it broke off in the bracket. I ordered a new oil pump but after hearing you say dropping the oil pan to get the job done requires engine removal I feel like I just got kicked in the gut
It may be possible to do it in the truck but I don't see how. The oil pans have to come off to get the pump off. You'd have to lift the engine up pretty high to get enough clearance.
What does a shop typically charge for a timing belt replacement?
Depends on the local labor rates and quality of parts used. It can vary. We're around 1150 if I remember correctly.
You say do not remove this bolt in relation to lower ac compressor bolt. Why is this? What happens if it’s removed? What is a realistic completion time for this job assuming engine still in vehicle?
If that bolt is removed completely it's an absolute pain to get reinstalled. First time doing one you'd probably be a full day.
Where’d u get the crank pulley holder ?
It's a CT tool from Amazon. I actually like the SP tools/schley products one better though.