Toyota 4.7 liter Timing Belt Replacement Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
Part one of our Toyota 4.7 timing belt replacement series.
To see a list of the parts and tools we used visit out website.
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Just want to tell you how much I appreciated your videos, I am 71 years young and just finished replacing my TB, seals, valve cover gaskets, spark plug seals and carrier bearing with minimal problems and no other help. One comment to you (very minor) is that I would trade the Tekton flex 12mm with a Gearwrench long reach (ratchet and box) way easier! For what it is worth I bought my truck new in 2003 and now have 333,400 miles and other than TB's this is the first real maintenance I have had to do on engine. I rebuilt suspension last fall. Plan on driving another 17 years or I am in the grave, whichever comes first. 😇
Fantastic in depth instructional video, one of the BEST I’ve seen!
Backyard mechanic a long time and think anyone could change the timing belt following your instruction👌😘......1st class!
You are the best! I followed your steps and successfully changed my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, serpentine belt, and thermostat. Thank you!!
Thank you SO MUCH for this. Started my timing belt and water pump replacement and could not have done it without you!
Thanks this helped a lot I am changing my belt now. 👍 that ac compressor is a pain , I didnt have to remove the rear AC bolt, the front bolts were enough to loosen the fan bracket
Thank you thanks to you I was able to change the belt myself at home
How long did it take you?
What a fine example of an excellent mechanic. OUTSTANDING JOB!
Just watched this video and still need to watch the second video before I try tackling my gx! Thanks
works perfectly on my 2007 Land Cruiser! Your video makes everything look so easy. Thanks a lot!
The head camera was a nice idea, but in practice it’s making me seasick (and I never get seasick). Also, all we can really see is the top of the engine. Still, the video gives a lot of tips that are helpful. Made my belt change much easier.
Yeah, the head camera was better in theory than practice. That's why I did an updated set of videos with better camera work and audio.
@@OTRAMM LOL!! I didn't see those. The video with the headcam was the first that popped up, but I "suffered" through them. Anyway, I got a lot out of your expertise doing this. I wish I had one of those topside creepers (?) like you have. That would've solved my bumper issue. I have an ARB bumper on the front, so I removed that and the radiator to give myself a little more elbow room. It took a little more time, but I not fast by any stretch and was worried about banging the radiator fins with my ham-fisted shade tree mechanic skills.
Exactly what im doing on my 2002 LX470. And also the AHC delete to OME. Thanks so much for your channel brother.
I wish I seen this vid first would of saved me a lot of time. Thanks for the help
Killer video, attempting my 04LX once the parts arrive, plan on watching these videos a few times in preparation. I am positive the 6 hours spent here will save more than 6 when I actually do it. Thanks for putting these together.
The updated versions are clearer and have better audio. These show the in truck struggles though😀
@@OTRAMM Totally, skimmed through those as well, but things like the AC compressor rear bolt are where you're saving my life. Thanks again!
This was such a great video. I had the Toyota shop Manuel in front of me but this video was more helpful. I can tell you know what you are doing and you are a great teacher. My '01 land cruiser is set for another 100k.
You lost me at “remove coolant.” I kid. Great video! Thank you! Now I’ll watch it a dozen more times before I begin!
Check out the updated version of the videos as well. It's a much better view with the engine out.
Yes this is great video thank you very much, I've watched part one and part two as well. it was really great, I have the same truck model and I have 110K miles on it, so I think it is time to change the belt.
Like how organized he is. While you might know how the car works and where parts need to be, you can still put screws in the wrong place. I always put the screws where they are and parts that goes with it in a box.
What is that "leaning ladder" you're using? That is exactly what I have been needing for YEARS when working on cars. This would be a godsend for reaching the stuff towards the back of engines without having to lay across the top!
It's called the top side creeper. It's awesome for head gaskets and timing belts.
Thanks for another great video. One caution for the 'home mechanic' as you pointed out (catch the coolant) and be SURE you have no pets around. Antifreeze is extremely toxic to them, especially dogs. Dogs have a bad habit of licking coolant and it doesn't take much to kill them or cause severe problems.
Great video. Thanks for not including commercials.
Good stuff otramm. I’ve been off work for a month now from working on cars. Crashed on my mountain bike and broke my collar bone. Going back to work tomorrow but office work only for another month 😬. Sucks!
Broken collar bone can't be fun!!
Such a detailed video to work on v8 Toyota's
The head cam worked great.
Hướng dẫn cách tháo cam xe toyota 4.7 rất chi tiết ,cảm ơn các bạn đã chia sẻ video này
Super video. Can't take my eyes off of it.
Just wanted to say you are very good. I appreciate the video.
Thanks for your part one and two, I've done mine using your technique and it works very well, I was able to do the job on my Land Cruiser 2001 model successfully without any problems. Infact I use the "T" mark instead and it works just fine, none of the camshaft turns in any means.
One of the Issue I face is that I did not use the AISIN timing kit but use another brand that I will not name it here so I ended using the old idler pully's since the one with the kit does not aligned (Idler pully# 1 with tensioner will not move freely once torque its bolt, Idler pully# 2 the bolt will not torque in any means). However, the old one are still ok without any strange noise on it so I was comfortable to put them back on for the next TB change. thanks again for the great job and awesome help.
How long did it take you?
Soooo grateful for this video!! I'm going to tackle this job in a week. I will order the parts from amazon off your website links too. Thanks again!
Awesome, glad you found it useful!! And thanks in advance for using the links!
OTRAMM I see comments about part links but I can't seem to find them. Can you reply with the link to the list. Also if you happen to links to the tools you used that would be great.
edit: found it I think
www.otramm.com/47-liter-timing-belt-replacement.html
great video man!! Awesome.
I do have an 03 100 series. 80k miles
My 03 Tundra has 239K miles. I bought it used about a year ago and the previous owner said he’s done it twice. I just forgot to ask him exactly when it was done and I am now kicking myself over this. I want to get it done so I don’t have to worry about it. I got a couple of quotes and the best one is 950 our the door. I think it’s pretty pricey but the dealer quoted me 1900!! Wish I had the time and tools to do it myself. My truck is running perfectly fine right now and just worried they’ll mess up. Wish I had a timing chain instead!
Make sure your comparing apples to apples on the pricing. Some places only do the belt, others only do belt and water pump, some do everything the belt touches. We do the belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam and crank seals (crank only on the vvt models) heater tees, and thermostat.
Yes, both quotes were for timing belt, water pump, tensioner, pullys, and seal. I don’t remember if they said heater tees or thermostat.
I know everybody’s got their own way to take things apart. But I usually remove the t stat housing to water pump first. Then it’s easier to get to other parts under it. I’m impressed that your using hand tools.
I go back and forth on pulling the t-stat housing first. Just depends on my mood. I tend to use hand tools for engine work and power for drivetrain and suspension.
First, thanks for taking the time to post this tear down, lots of good detail here. I don't need it right now but I likely will in the future should I do the timing belt myself. Looks like the anti-freeze is after market. I have only ever used Toyota Long Life coolant (red) in my 2002 LX470 and have never had a problem with pump seals and the like. It's expensive but I think its worth it. The timing belt expected life is 90,000 miles unless the pump goes first so anything that I can do to make that pump last is worth it. Curious on your thoughts on that.
Yeah, that truck had aftermarket green coolant. Most of the time we refill them with whatever they came in with. The green and Toyota red coolants seem to keep the water pumps happy and we rarely see leaks with them. The newer Toyota Super Long life pink coolant seems to eat water pumps and those are almost always weeping when we pull them. The newer pink coolant even takes a different gasket maker at nearly 100 bucks a tube as opposed to the older 15 dollar FIPG.
Helpful video, thanks for posting it!
Just a side note for anyone doing this job- highly recommend draining coolant from the engine block first to avoid making a mess up front when removing the water pump and oil cooler lines. Drains are located on each side of the block, as shown here: forum.ih8mud.com/threads/radiator-flush-coolant-drain-diy.223575/#post-3353085
If you don’t mind me asking, what’s your video camera setup? GoPro with head strap?
This video series has saved many people so much money and I really appreciate your effort.
This one was a go pro knock off on a head strap. The updated version is a Sony A6000. The newest ones are A6500 and GoPro hero 11
@@OTRAMM Awesome! I'm looking to record a couple things on my not-so-well documented 3FE 80 Series and will give it a go with a Hero 9 for now. Thanks again for all of your videos!
Would it be wrong to say that I’m kinda excited to do mine? It’s got a lot of life left on it but this looks fun.
Never again will I complain about working on a 1FZ
It's really not that bad. Just a ton of stuff to remove to get down to the belt.
Hey Otramm. Thank you for these 3 videos. I’ve got everything apart but my camshaft seals look like they are weeping. Will you make a video on removing and replacing them? I’m nervous my timing is going to change when I remove the cams. I haven’t read anything on it yet but thought it’d be a great video (by you). I really appreciate your videos. So amazing and good. Perfect presentation!
There's an updated 3 part series. I do the non vvti cam seals in it. I've never had to do the vvti cam seals but it looks like the cams have to come out to do them.
Did you replace the camshaft seals?
@@onesri6108 yes I did. I messed one up putting it in but just bought another seal and got them in just fine
Subscribing. Best channel on how to work on Toyota trucks. Going to check out the chat videos too, would like to hear opinions from people who work on those cars a lot.
Awesome! I appreciate it. Thanks
A man’s got to know his limitations.
After watching 30 minutes of this I am happy to pay $500 to my local Toyota dealership to replace the timing belt.
$500, and the rest!
That's a steal. The only dealership near me quoted $1700 for parts and labor. Local garage wants $1100 + parts.
Outstanding video. Thank you!
Great videos, you are helping the community tremendously!
As I am doing this job at home, would it be helpful to drain the block of coolant to avoid getting all of it in the timing case?
Thanks a lot!
It wouldn't hurt to drain the block. Most of the trucks we see are super crusty so I've never pulled the block drains to see.
Okay great, I will give that a try!
Off hand, could you tell me where to find the crank position for removing the timing belt on my truck? I’ve been searching the fsm...
Could i use this series to do this job on my 2001 lexus gs430?
Oops ! I shoulda disconnected the battery at the beginning ! 😂
Rookie question- when you removed the upper radiator hose at the beginning, how come there was no fluid lost ? Did you drain prior to filming ?
The pink coolant eats away the fipg seals?
47:34 Are the hydraulic tensioner bolts reverse thread? I'm so confused. It looks to me like they're coming out clockwise, right?
edit: I get it now. Those bolts are facing upward and you're holding the ratchet upside down. It's a bit hard to follow without being able to see most of what is happening but this is still one of the best videos on this topic that we have. Leaving this comment here in case someone else has the same dumb idea that I had
It's easier to see in the updated video. The engine is out so the view isn't as tight.
@@OTRAMM Believe me, I'm watching those too. The whole reason I found your channel is because I needed a video showing the camshaft oil seal and crankshaft oil seal replacement. I'll be doing this job myself for the first time very soon on my 2001 Tundra so I really appreciate the videos. Thanks!
I have a question hopefully you or anyone can give an opinion, I have a 2000 Land Cruiser bought it new, I had the water pump replaced 2/9/2012, with 101k miles. I’m coming up on 10 years, the Land Cruiser has 141k now… I went 12yrars and 101k before changing the belt and pump… so you think I could go 12 years with only 41k on this second belt and pump????
Excellent video! What about replacing a leaking camshaft seal? My passenger side one is leaking. What would cause a crankshaft seal leak?
I did an updated timing belt series. The seals are in part 2. Usually just age and hardening rubber causes them to leak. Sometimes they wear a groove in the cam or crank but I haven't seen that yet on a 4.7. ruclips.net/video/7gcM_-fN-44/видео.html
Thank you for writing this up. It’s a really great video. I have to change my power steering rack, I was wondering if it would be easier to do this when everything is taken out? The Grigger’s say hi btw. 😁
The way the rack comes out I don't think having the timing belt stuff out of the way would buy you anymore room. I could see it making it more of a pain since you'll have dripped coolant all over the rack pulling the water pump. And hello back, been watching you guys on Instagram. The baby doesn't seem to have slowed the adventures down at all.
OTRAMM thanks again! I realized we also used your ahc delete video too! Loving all the videos...I’ll have to put a request for a video about the rack and pinion replacement. 😜 Definitely subscribing!
@@walterpenn571 We don't do racks very often. I'll film the next one that comes in.
The rack comes out relatively easy. There are only four main bolts, but you have to disconnect the sway bar. There is another great guy Timmy the Toyota Guy that does a step by step on the Tundra Suspension, that you need to watch. You have to almost disconnect the rack to do a suspension job
Awesome instructional; Impressive speed and follow through. Its Outstanding what one can pick up from you on a instructional/intellectual/educational level, which needs no improve from from my standpoint. However, iI one were to desire to improve their videography for shits and giggles, than perhaps so focus on the audio transition 1st to 3rd person transition or volume equalisation/balancing or reposition of mic when filming the hands-on repair or perhaps it simply purchasing a better quality mic. [Mind you; i do not know wtf im talking about. I am not a professional in Automotive, videography or the like. It is just a "food for thought suggestion' from a man obtaining an education via YT or by any other extraordinary means]. -Cheers
I hate the audio on this video. It was the first time using that camera and I didn't realize how much noise it picked up. Switched to a separate audio recorder and mic after these videos.
Really Appreciate the viodeos and the 2.0 version engine out...question on the first video when you remove the ac compresser bracket, there was no bracket on the back of my 2001 LX470, just the holes, explains why the main compresser bolt was so tight, is that just called a ac compresser bracket ? probably dearlership item ? I ordered repair manual hopefully I get them soon. Thanks again ! Next time you pull an engine maybe others might want to see a video of that ?
Not sure what that bracket is called. I've never had to order one. I'd just look it up at the dealer.
Is this the same procedure as with 4.7 vvti motor on advancing 50degrees and or make sure mark on crank matches up with oil pump center
Awsome video! where can i find a set of long wrenches you used to remove the fan assembly. The wrenches look to about 12" long with a ratchet end.
Mine are Matco but most of the big tool brands have them.
Would you know by chance what a 2006 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 4.7 w/vvti is supposed to be set at ,top dead center with the l on the back of the cam or what
First off, thank you SO much for this video! It has been very helpful and a learning experience for me. The only issue I ran into is at 33:20 as I am not sure bolt/nut you are loosening. I watched it over and over again but was unable to determine which one you're referring to. Would you happen to have a picture or so? Lastly, do you have to take the bolts out from by the oil filter? I know which ones you took out but wasn't sure what the reasoning was for it. Thanks a bunch!
It's the rear bolt on the AC compressor. Unfortunately I don't have a picture. I've never actually seen that bolt. You can barely feel it. It's terrible to find and loosen. I've done it enough times I can hit it by memory now. The bolts near the oil filter are the bottom front AC compressor bolt and a stiffener for it. The bolt goes through the compressor in to the fan bracket so it has to come out to remove the fan bracket. Glad you liked the video.
Thanks for your quick response! I did notice a bolt by the oil dip stick but it was new to the header which I could only see but didn't think I could get it removed even if I had tried. I am also glad to know that I need to take the bottom two bolts out since I tried to bypass that and noticed how the fan bracket was still stuck on there very tight.
Great Job! TY!
My belt lines arent matching up after rotating crank . J know you gotta donit twice but its still not lining up.
The lines won't line back up. You're looking for the timing marks on the pulleys to line back up.
I have 2002 Toyota Land Cruiser would I need to do this also
Yep, all of the 4.7 v8s have a timing belt.
These videos are awesome, great breakdown and easy to follow! do all the parts listed on your website work for 100 series LX's if it shows to fit on the same year LC?
Any reason to change the alternator while you are in there? '06-'07 seem to be identical, would the service manuals for timing marks be the same, or do they vary that much year to year?
The timing marks vary. There's at least 3 different positions. You won't be doing cam seals on the newer vvt-i trucks and the thermostat may be different. I'm fairly certain 100 series and lx470 are the same year to year though.
And the Aisin kits have the timing changed by year in their manual.
Amazing detailed video. Can i get away with just using a regular length wrench instead of the extended one?
I'm guessing that you mean for the fan clutch. Yes, a regular wrench works. The extra long one just makes it easier.
OTRAMM yes the fan clutch. And thank you very much!!!! I have to replace my fan bracket and fan clutch. You make it look easy on the video lol. I’ll give it a try this weekend.
I also did an update series of timing belt videos with the engine out of the truck. It's easier to see everything in them.
OTRAMM Amazing thank you!!!
@@OTRAMM Can you send me the link please?
Gread video
Does anyone know what companies sell complete kits to do this job?
Aisin is the only kit we use. It's all high quality Japanese parts.
Great video- where can I buy those long wrenches you used in fan- awesome .Also who makes the best time belt kit in your opinion for the LC 2006.Thank U
The long wrenches are Matco flex head extended length ratcheting spline drive. The 12mm is part number RFBZXLM1212A. I have them in regular and extra long and love them. Best timing belt kit in my opinion is the Aisin one. I won't use anything else. (well, except factory parts)
I did my passat t belt twice. It was as complicated as this one. My only real question is regarding the vvti on this engine. I've watched videos where the belt is changed at TDC 0°. Others where the cam notches were moved, I believe, 50° to the T mark. And one where the cams were rotated counter clockwise a bit the belt was installed. On one, a comment was left regarding the torque specs of the crank bolt. Something to the effect of if not properly torqued to 181 ft-lbs it affects the vvti ability to properly produce torque. Then another comment starting that there are 3 variations of this engine which each require a different approach. Any thoughts? Thanks.
You need the service manual or at least info for your year. There are three different positions for the crank to change the belt over the years. I can never keep them straight and end up looking it up every time just to be safe. The crank on the 4.7 is keyed but it should still be torqued properly. The older 1fz straight 6 wasn't keyed so proper torque is absolutely critical on that one.
Lexus dealer service manager just quoted me $800 for belt and crank seal only. Additional $350 for water pump. They stated they never change the pully or tensioner. Hmmmmmm.....😕😕😕 If the mark position was straightforward I would not hesitate to do this myself. But I think I will go for option B. Piece of mind. Lol
The Aisin kit that's linked on our website breaks down the position by years in it's instructions. You'll need a crank holder as well. It's not a terrible job, just time consuming.
A same work on 2009 vxr 4.7
Where can I get detailed schematic or instructions for belt removal and belt replacement for 4.7 vvti
David Blankenship
Have you looked for a FSM?
Factory service manual
Even a chilton or Haynes manual would show a timing job I’d bet.
Just a FYI. You should always put a piece of cardboard against the radiator to keep from putting dings and gouges in the fins. I see you gouged this radiator pretty good couple times. Lol.
It got a new radiator that hadn't come in yet. We normally do the cardboard trick but it didn't matter on this one.
Thanks for this comment. Will make sure to do this.
where are you sticking the pry bar at 8:44 and so on? I can not get these fan bolts loose in any capacity
It's hard to explain but basically you slip it down behind one stud and then spin the fan so a second stud hits the bar. You're wedging the pry bar between two studs.
The effort for this timing belt video was great, but I would like to know how come the RADIATOR not in any protective shield or Removed out of the way?
The radiator was being replaced but hadn't come in yet.
I have questions about crankshaft bold&pulley. Between pulley holder and impact run, which method do you recommend for DIY? why do you remove the crankshaft bold before setting the TDC? I am seeing you are setting the TDC by turning the engine clockwise, do you have prepare steps before turning the engine such as putting the shift in neutral or taking spark plug #1 off? if there a chance that the TDC off after removing the crankshaft pulley or bold? if it does off how to set it back? Sorry for too many questions and Thanks in advance
I prefer the crank holding tool and a breaker bar. You can use an impact to remove the bolt but you'll need the crank holder to properly torque the bolt at the end anyway. You loosen the bolt before setting TDC because it's going to move as you're loosening the bolt. If you loosen it at TDC you'll just end up setting it again. No steps to prepare for TDC. It's easier with the plugs out but I never bother. Always turn clockwise. You end moving the crank after the pulley is off, you just reinsert the bolt. Since you're always going clockwise it works. When you're done a sharp hit to the wrench will loosen the bolt so you can reinstall the pulley. You'll want to have the manual as well since the crank position for service changes by engine year. Hope this helps.
Appreciate your response and your video is an inspiration.
Let assume I have the timing belt marks setting correctly on crankshaft and camshafts after the crankshaft pulley taken off. Is it possible the engine be rotated while putting the belt in by hand?
You don't want to rotate anything with the belt off. The cams will spin some on there own, you'll need a wrench to spin them back. If you move the crank while the belt is off you can bend the valves.
I don’t mean to turn the crankshaft purposely after the belt off. While putting the belt in, can I accidentally move it or our hand strong enough to accidentally move it?
Would this be identical for a 2002 sequoia 4.7L?
You'll need to look up the crank shaft rotation for where to change the belt but otherwise the same.
I appreciate the way in which you work. I may have to take a few pages from you book. And that little red tool shelf/cart thing looks bad fucking ass. Whats that thing called??
I think they're just called tool trays or maybe stands.
So you have to change the water pump to do the timing belt?
You can do the belt without doing the water pump, but since you have to remove the belt to do the pump it makes sense to do them at the same time. The water pump is usually leaking by the time it's time to change the belt, especially on the trucks that use the pink super long life coolant.
what happens if you have nuts and bolts left over after reassembly?
You get the joy of figuring out where they go😂. It's the best part.
You can use them to reaffix the the unfastened parts which will eventually fall off. 😂
Is it gonna be the same for 08 GX 470? Thank you,
The position for removing the belt changes, and you won't do cam seals but otherwise it's the same
Hi where is your shop located at? Im at springfield VAI just bought a 2002 sequoia and i want to have a overall inspection of the car
We're in Bealeton, VA about an hour Southwest of you. We're pretty booked out at the moment but if you go to www.otramm.com there's a button to request and estimate. That'll get us all the info we need to get you on the list and scheduled. Thanks, Ryan
After watching this video I'm going to Toyota dealer.
what track is this
Would this be the same for a 2006 tundra 4.7 sr5 ?
It's similar, the timing where you remove the belt is different and you won't be changing cam seals.
@@OTRAMM thank you boss. I would of taken it to your shop but we are 9 hrs away!
How many mile before the first timing belt change
I'm pretty sure it's 90k or five years. The owners manual is the surest source of info though.
Why not use an air ratchet?
I started out in a shop that frowned on air tools. I've got a few air/cordless ratchets. I just don't use them often. I like hand tools better. I'm not on flat rate so speed isn't a big deal.
Such a shame toyota does this. Why not just use a chain or make changing thing easier
They went back to a chain on the 5.7. The belt isn't really that bad to change though.
F*cking Gem you are!
Is that VVTI or non VVTI
non VVT-i
Where are you located?
We're in Bealeton, Virginia. About an hour South West of DC.
Español
My Spanish is terrible! I can order food and that's about it :)
Dude, your camera work is giving me motion sickness. Don't mean to knock your video, I found it very helpful but had to keep looking away because your camera is attached to your head and moves all over the place.
That's why I made a second set of videos.