*NOTE* - At play time 06:00, We used Black 103 FIPG to reseal the water inlet to the water pump. We learned after the fact that Toyota has a FIPG meant specifically for coolant applications. It's *Toyota Seal Packing 1282b, Part **#08826**-00100.* We have heard people haven't had issues with using the 103 FIPG for these types of coolant applications, but to play it safe, we suggest you use 1282b FIPG. *TORQUE VALUES* *Water Pump* 5 bolts - 16 ft-lbs 2 stud bolts and nut - 13 ft-lbs *Water Inlet* 2 bolts - 13 ft-lbs *Thermostat Neck* 3 Bolts - 14 ft-lbs *#2 Timing Belt Idler Pulley* 25 ft-lbs *#1 Timing Belt Idler Pulley* 25 ft-lbs *Timing Belt Tensioner* 19 ft-lbs *#1 Timing Cover* 66 in-lbs *Crank Bolt* 181 ft-lbs *Fan Bracket* 12mm bolt and nut - 12 ft-lbs 14mm bolt and nut - 24 ft-lbs *Dynamic Tensioner* bolts and nuts - 11 ft-lbs *#2 Timing Belt Cover Sub Assembly* 12 ft-lbs *#3 Timing Cover* 66 in-lbs *Oil Cooler Pipe* bolt and nut - 66 in-lbs *#2 Timing Cover* 66 in-lbs *#2 Idler Pulley Sub Assembly* 29 ft-lbs *Alternator* 12mm nut - 12 ft-lbs 14mm nut and bolt - 29 ft-lbs *Power Steering Pump* nut and bolts - 32 ft-lbs *Radiator* 9 ft-lbs
Thanks! Really appreciate the time you took to make a thorough video for this motor. It's my first time doing this for this truck. Glad to find your channel 👍. Enjoy the beer
Replaced my engine and absolutely couldn't have been successful without Timmy! I did my prayer to the timing belt gods, and they were forgiving... started right up.
It's great to hear you were successful with your engine swap with the help of our videos. It's awesome when the Wrenching Gods are on our side. Awesome job doing that job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Watched both videos before tackling this job. Read tons of comments in both comment sections and applied some of their tips/lessons learned. Used the videos along the way under the hood. Tons of great information!! This saved me so much time and money! I appreciate your dedication and attention to detail. You guys are the best!
Glad it worked out for you. Great job tackling this job. I bet it feels good doing such an involved job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Dan, we are stoked to hear comments like these and super appreciate that you took the time to share your feedback! Don’t hesitate to drop a comment on one of your videos if you have a question - we pride ourself in answering comments on a timely fashion! - Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman not a problem Sean. I think Toyota tech trainers are secretly using your camera work to make their jobs easier. I'm going to post a question on your u-joint video... and probably buy a t-shirt to support you guys.
I was able to replace a rear axle shaft a couple of years ago on my first gen 2003 Tundra thanks to your excellent tutorial videos (and the help of an ingeniously made jig purchased on eBay). It's no longer my daily driver - that honor goes to a Toyota 86 - but, with 240,000 miles on the old girl, the little angel sitting on my shoulder is warning me that I really should replace the belt on this interference (boo) engine. I may pay to have it done but if I decide to tackle it myself, it will be because of these two videos. You are a great teaching mechanic.
Hey Mikey, great to hear our videos have helped you out and we appreciate your kind words. I think you should do the timing belt job. If you take your time, you'll get it done no problem. Happy Wrenching!
I'm just an average mechanic at home and aircraft mechanic at work. I'm good with tools. This was first timing belt job ever. I have a 2008 tundra with 61k miles on it. Belt was way over due. With this step by steps series. I was able to complete it with no problems. Thank you for this!
Just tackled my 2uz-fe on my 06 DC Tundra w/ the VVT. I watched your videos two times each and had it playing as I did the job. Could not have asked for a better tutorial to do this job. I too used the “T” marks beside the actual timing marks and had zero issues with the cams wanting to move. Thanks for the time and effort put into making these videos. Keep em coming!
I intentionally listened to the advice to remove the belt on the T mark instead of the proper marks, and it has bitten me in the butt. It's throwing P0018 and P0016 codes. Now I have to take it all apart again. @TimmyTheToolman I would greatly appreciate some additional guidance on how to realign everything now that it is off timing.
Never done this before. Water pump locked up and timing belt broke. But I watch a part come off, paused video and took part off. Then repeated through the entire part 1 video. Putting back together done same thing with this video. Now I'm back on the road with just the price of parts. Thank you guys.
That's a good way to use video tutorials. I do the same thing. Watch a section, pause the video, perform the step and repeat until you're done with the job. Great to hear you were successful using our video.
This is the BEST 2uz-fe timing belt video on the web. Believe me, I’ve watched them all. This is my 4th or 5th timing belt job on a 4Runner. I buy and sell them for fun. This video was accurate, well filmed, with good explanations of ALL of the steps. SUBSCRIBED !!!!!!!!!>
Quick question as I’m about to tackle this job. If you use the T marks, then when you put back on the new belt, where does the CR mark on the belt line up to?
@MrCalifornia1234 I haven't confirmed it on this engine, but other Toyota engines have a small timing dot on the front face of the crankshaft timing gear. It's easy to miss. If you find it, the CR line should line up with that dot.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it very much.. We always try our best to give the most detail and information possible in our videos so people can be successful using one of our tutorials. Happy Wrenching!
Very informative for me as a DIYer and the video is so amazingly clear. I will be using your video guide in my 2002 LX470 timing belt project in the coming days. Thank you so much for this.
You're very welcome. Good luck with the timing belt job. Be sure to read the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for additional information for the job.
Hey tim, doing a timing belt on an 02 sequoia. I took the belt off at the I mark and not the T for the cams and the dimple lined up at the crank/oil pump. That did not work as the cams kept jumping and was constantly off a tooth when performing the hand rotation with belt and tensioner on. Advanced the cams to T marks and advanced the crank. Installed the belt and performed hand rotation of belt. 2 full revolutions and everything lined up. Just a heads up. Non vvti 4.7l.
Thanks for the comment. Many others have also reported the "T" position is the correct position to put the cams at to eliminate the cams from jumping. Good job doing the timing belt job on your own. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim, I have a 2008 Gx470, I used the "T" marks, nothing slipped, the cams stayed in place. everything worked perfect. I followed your step by step instructions. First time doing anything like this.... awesome job! if you have the tools, do it!!! Thanks!!!
Thanks Kevin for letting us know that. That's a big help. We appreciate it. That's great the job went well for you using our video as a tutorial. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I used the T marks Taking the old timing belt off do I use the T marks installing the new timing belt or do I use the the regular timing lines ? Are the T marks for removing the timing belt or are the T marks also used fir installing new timing belt
@@aurelioroyce9931 The T position really has nothing to do with getting the belt on properly. You need to get the lines (Right and Left Cams) on the new belt properly lined up with the timing marks on each camshaft pulley, and then you need to get the timing line for the crankshaft lined up with the crankshaft timing gear. I didn't say it in the video, but there should be a small timing dot on the crankshaft timing gear that faces forward towards the radiator. That timing dot, should line up with the "CR" line on the timing belt. Once you get all 3 timing marks lined up, you do a couple full revolutions of the engine and confirm the camshaft pulleys line up with their respective timing marks and the crankshaft timing gear lines up with its respective timing mark and you're good to go.
I just paid Toyota to do my timing belt on my tundra with the 2uz fe. They charged me $2500 for the job which included the camshaft seals. Now I understand why. Great video! Lots of valuable information! Thank you!
That is a crazy amount of money. Did they tell you the camshaft seals were leaking and that's why they replaced them? Thanh's engine had over 200k and his didnt show any signs of leaking yet. Doing the camshaft seals would be a lot more labor, but still, $2500 is a crazy amount for a timing belt job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for this information! $2800 is what I was quoted from a small shop in Daly City this week. Included in this was the Cam seals (there is no signs of leaking). Otherwise he has it would be closer to 1,600.
@@kat4animals004 $1600 is still a crap load of money. I'd use our tutorial and buy the tools you need. The tools you can use again and again to save you even more money.
@@TimmyTheToolman I would like to but I am not sure if the time is right. Would you be able to do the job on my tundra? I could help- assist with job, film... I would drive to you and bring all parts. I'd travel from Concord. Would you consider this?
@@TimmyTheToolman Also- If you wanna- I have an mechanical issue that I have Never seen addressed. My horn does Not work! Only intermittently, then only a short beep. I purchased tundra this way in 2017. Replaced the relay and that did not resolve the issue. Would you like to use my tundra for a repair video!? I have not seen any videos or any instruction of this issue, and I have searched on and off for years.
Thanks Tim! I just completed a timing belt and water pump job on my 2005 Tundra. For the most part your video lines up with my Tundra. I think there is a little more room in my engine bay than the vehicle in your video. I can’t emphasize enough how an extra set of hands helps on this job. Made it through it regardless. Great Video!
Good job Brett! Great to hear our video helped you out. Yes, an extra set of hands is very nice to have. One of the last jobs I did on my 3rd Gen 4runner, I was solo and really needed help at one point because I needed a 3rd hand. With a little help from my wife, I easily got past the stumbling block and finished the job.
Just finished my 2003 4Runner and your videos helped so much! I appreciate you taking the time to do these detailed videos. It was a 2 day ordeal for me on my own but it’s finally done🤙🏽
@@ChristopherKing-p9r Sicmods brotha! Super stoked our video allowed you to accomplish this repair. That’s what our channel is all about! Don’t forget to like the video and subscribe! 😅🤘🏼 - Sean
Ok, now I have just enough information to get myself in trouble. I did this about 10 years ago on the same truck. I now have 200,000 miles and it is time to do it again but I forgot how, so TIMMY is the go to guy on all things Toyota. Thank you for your work and time on the videos. Always informative and entertaining.
You'll be fine Paul. We did find out the "T" position for the cams is the right spot to turn them to before removing the belts. People have reported the cams won't jump in that position. You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Take your time and enjoy it. Happy Wrenching!
I might've said this before, but I really appreciate the extra details you discuss for us novices. I recently did a drum brake job with your video playing. I noticed other RUclipsrs explain jobs while having your videos play in the background. You are a pretty good resource for us Toyota owners.
(Comment from Sean) Hey thanks for the kind word Pluto! You’ve really noticed other RUclipsrs with our videos playing in the background? That’s pretty cool. Glad our videos were able to help you out!
(Comment from Timmy) Great to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. We purposely gear our videos to the absolute beginner because then everyone can be successful, not just the experienced paid or DIY mechanic. I find the other thing you said very interesting. So, you're saying other DIY Mechanic RUclipsrs are making their own video for a job and you noticed they were playing our video in the background as a reference? Could you send us a link with one of those videos and a time stamp where you can clearly see that they're using our video as a reference? I guess the ultimate flattery is somebody copying your own work. Do these RUclipsrs mention us and give us credit as one of their resources for the job? We obviously want people to benefit from our videos, but if they use our content and then try to pass it off as their own with no mention of us, that's not something we like. There was a guy that did a write-up of a timing belt job on a Tacoma forum that mimicked exactly what we instruct in our videos. The guy did make mention of our 2 part video but it was like it was an afterthought. I told the guy that he should have just said at the very beginning his write-up was based on our video series to clearly give us credit for the work we put forth. We're not perfect, but Sean and I usually try to give credit to the people we used as a reference for our videos. We think it's important to give credit where credit is due.
@@TimmyTheToolman there is one where your voice is faintly playing in the background for several seconds, talking about a job, while the youtuber is talking to us about the same job. I think it was about a suspension lift. I doubt I could find it if I tried. Forgettable video. There was a commenter on that video who also noticed your voice/auido playing. The channel itself was two 20-something guys in a garage, acting all nonchalant, but it was a dedicated, monetized car channel nonetheless. I was talking in the plural in the first comment, but it was just that one video that I heard your video in. That said, I suspect many more people follow you when making their own YT videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just flicked through a bunch of thumbnails, but don't know the one I'm looking for. I don't think I can find it. I will take note if I see that stuff again. It would irritate the hell out of me. It's like writing a book based on a book.
You're very welcome, Micaell. We're glad our video series helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Just want to say thanks for all this info. Completed the job with this tutorial. For someone wondering, if you’re organized and take your time you can do this. For the cam jumping, I found that if you align the timing mark on the balancer with 0, then turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark lines up with the nub on the timing cover, the timing marks on the cams will align with the “T” and you shouldn’t have an issue. Also, if you don’t have an impact gun and test the alignment of your timing belt by rotating the engine, the crank bolt can be tough to get off. If you’re having this problem, put a short wrench on the crank bolt and give it a few good taps with a mallet and it should break free.
Glad our video helped you get the job done. You're welcome. Thanks for confirming the "T" spot on the cams is good for keeping the cams from jumping and sharing your tip for the crank bolt removal after rotating the engine. Happy Wrenching!
I used this and Part 1 to replace my timing belt on a '99 LX470. I went by the FSM for everything except the timing belt installation. Getting tension between the cams was the most important part of the installation process. That and making sure nothing fell out of time. Thanks for your help, Timmy. PS - I'd recommend putting the water inlet on last next time ; )
Great job Tim! I started watching your videos when I had a gen 3 4Runner and now you have me covered for my next big project with my GX470. As always you go above and beyond to help us all understand what it takes to get the job done. Thanks for all your hard work!
Thanks Daniel. It's interesting, many other guys said something similar that they knew us when they had a 3rd Gen 4runner but now they either have an LX470 or GX470. We always really try to cover the job as thoroughly as possible so nobody gets lost using one of our videos as a tutorial. Reading comments like yours lets us know we're doing things right. We do from time to time get people whining that our videos are too long but these people are in the severe minority. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching. Hope your timing belt job goes smooth.
Just finished this job using your two videos as a step by step guide... Great job taking the time to break the procedure down into each step and going into such great detail. That had to be a lot of work, but it sure made it easy on my end... I set up a laptop and just paused the video at each step. I would like to add that I think you're right about using the "T" on the heads to line up with the cams' timing marks before removing the belt. My truck is an '05 4runner... one of the ones that you're supposed to turn the crank 50 degrees COUNTER clockwise from TDC. The Toyota shop manual, a Haynes manual and the instructions that came with my Gates timing belt kit all said to turn the crankshaft COUNTER clockwise 50 degrees before removing the belt. I opted to trust the manuals and both of my cams jumped quite a bit when I removed the belt (no damage as it turns out... I was worried though!) I did notice that both cams wanted to naturally rest in the position where the timing mark on the sprocket lines up with the "T" on the head so I think you were right by suggesting that using the "T" as a starting point is the better option... at least on my engine. There seems to be an error in the Toyota procedure. Again, great job! Thank you!
Hey Paul, great to hear you appreciate the work we put into these videos. Yes, it's a ton of work to film and edit a project like this. Thanks for confirming that the "T" position for the crank pulleys seems to be the right position to put them in before removing the belt. Also, thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
First thanks a lot!!! I recently got an '02 sequoia after selling my 98 4Runner. The sequoia had no service history so I knew that the timing belt job would have to be done asap. My truck is non VVTi so I was able to replace the cam seals, which are most likely a similar style to that on the 5VZFE. Also thanks, I'm a full time teacher and only 24, not a auto tech by trade but I love cars (Toyotas and Lexus specifically) your channel has helped me more times than once and I'm almost finished with this job thanks to your help!
Tim, I wanted to let you know that this video is so well done that it inspired me to purchase a 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser. I know the engine in mine is a little different but not much different. Thanks for the great content. Tell Sean as well.
Best video I ended up just following you along while working on my car. Ended up leaving the thermostat housing off until I got everything lined up. Also on my vvt engine just put the new belt on the t marks. Everything lined up perfect. Also left the idler and tensioner wheel loose which made it much easier to get the belt onto the crank sprocket then torque down those two down and pulled the tensioner pin once verified the marks lined up. Now have to do my other truck.
And the Oscar for best automotive repair video of the year goes to .... Timmy and crew. Holy crap - what an epic experience. Script, videography, lighting, production quality, etc. were excellent. Also the notes in the comment section, tool recommendations, the whole enchilada. How long did this job take to do? (real elapsed time). And how much post editing time did it take to produce this masterpiece for automotive repair history? Do you have a day job, or is this your fulltime gig? I kneel in reverence... This is the gold standard for "how to" videos.
Hey Dwight, I really appreciate your very nice compliment of our work. You made my day! I'll give you an idea of what goes into a video like this since you asked. 1) To start, I do research and watch any existing videos others have done to pick up tips and other helpful information. I'll also read forum write-uos that I find. Don't know how many hours I spent doing this but probably somewhere around 4. 2) I read the Toyota or Lexus Facfory Service Manual pages for the job. Sometimes this requires me to buy a subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website so I can access the information and download it in a PDF format, like I had to do for this job. This probably took me around 3 hours to download and read through the material to become familiar with it. 3) Before the job, I went over the parts list with Thanh to make sure he had everything we needed. Sometimes we have everything and other times we have to make a run to Toyota because we didn't have a part we needed. Probably another hour for this. 4) The 3 three of us found a date that worked with all our schedules and we committed a whole day to it. 5) It's interesting you mentioned a script. We have an idea of how we want the video to flow, but none of the dialog is scripted. We take it right off the top of our heads while we are shooting. 6) This job took us all day, can't remember how long but most likely 8-10 hours. 7) The editing for us on a 2-part video like this is easily 30 hours, but that's just a guesstimate. 8) Getting all the information together for the video description is probably another 3 hours. 9) If my math is correct, the time expense is around 50 hours. 10) That's pretty much it for the time expense to get a video like this published on our channel, but in reality, the clock keeps ticking because we take the time to answer most people's questions and acknowledge their comments, like I'm doing for you. Sean and I both have regular jobs. I'm a firefighter and he works for Apple. We love running our RUclips channel and reading comments like yours really helps fuel our desire to keep doing it. So, thank you, thank you, thank you for your compliment of our hard work and acknowledging our investment of time to put out a quality video for the DIY Mechanic Community. Happy Wrenching Dwight!
@@TimmyTheToolman Happy to recognize your efforts. Do you have a Patreon account? If not, you should consider it. You are saving people a considerable amount of time and money (and frustration), and I'm sure many of your viewers, me included, would be honored to buy you a beer, help defray your costs, and motivate you to keep up the good work.
@@dwight_klaus2981 Hey Dwight, we don't have a Patreon account. We've considered it but haven't started one yet. We do have a "Tip Jar" link on our home page that people have used to send us money. The link is under the picture of me, next to the links to our Facebook and Instagram pages. I guess for me, I'd never want to charge people for access to our content and that's what I sort of understand a Patreon membership would be. People pay for access to things that others can't access without a membership. At first when we got started, we weren't making any money. Now we're making a decent amount from RUclips, and from our Amazon and Ebay Associates Memberships. Thanks again Dwight. We appreciate it!
@@dwight_klaus2981 I just saw your $10 Super Thanks. We appreciate it Dwight. I wish more people were like you. The high, high, high majority of people who use our videos don't comment to thank us for our efforts. They might give a thumbs up, and that's cool, but it doesn't have the same effect as reading a nice comment like you gave us. And, most of the people who use our videos don't bother to subscribe to our channel. It's almost like people feel they were owed the content we provided and they don't need to take the time to thank us for our efforts. Like you said, our videos are saving people lots of time, money and frustration, but they can't take a few minutes out of their day to thank us. That's unfortunate and speaks to what our society has become. The only thing our audience has to deal with is the annoying ads, but, that's a small price to pay for the content they get access to. I like to surround myself with generous people who will go out of their way to help their fellow man. I don't care for selfish people. So, thanks for your unselfish acts of commenting to thank us and acknowledge our efforts and thanks for the donation.
Hi Craig, I just own a ‘07 Sequoia 4X4 last summer and i’m sure it need these maintenance job very soon. Replacing timing belt, camshaft/crankshaft seals and water pump. I’ve done research but i’m afraid it’s not enough. Have you done the job as you mentioned with your wife’s Sequoia? How did it go? As far as the timing was done? Did you had it on the “T” mark? Need some input on thses part. Thanks.
Hay Timmy thanks so much for the video. I did my timing belt years ago, but couldn’t quite remember all the details and this video was perfect exactly what I needed. Thanks so much.
Well, took everything apart over the weekend and constantly referred to this video. Thank you for the time put in. I have the non VVTi engine in a sequoia and I went to the T marks for belt removal and no springing. I feel like it moved pretty freely between TDC and the T Marks. My opinion- I think it’s safe at both for non VVTi models.
Thanks for the video. As a kid that can't do brakes with a RUclips video this job was a long one, 20 hours first day. But I got it done on my 03 4runner.
Thanks for confirming that for us Steve. Others have said the same thing. Kind of weird how the factory service manuals for all the vehicles with this 2UZ engine have a multitude of different instructions on how to position the crankshaft before removing the belt, but not one of them mentions using the "T" marks for the cams.
Thanks Steve! My 2006 Tundra sends its best. How many miles did you have on it and did the belt look good still, assuming it's the 1st TB job? Appreciate it
Great channel learning a lot ! I have a 2000 tundra V8 4.7 179,000. Ur videos helped me change 02 sensor , breakers now I’m going to tackle radiator flush. Thanks for all the great videos and information.
Just watching some videos in preparation for doing this job in the future, I have a sequoia and a GX, so it's not going to be too long until I need to do this service. Thanks for these videos man, seriously a life saver with all the detail you've given.
I just had a rodent chew up my starter connections it was definitely challenging. The hardest part was taking the 3 bolts that hold the starter. I had to use a flex head ratchet and become a contortionist i used a strap to hold the wiring in the back as much out of the way it help but those three bolts took me hours to take off
I just finished up. Very helpful, doing this solo for the first time. The service manual steered me wrong when it came to the cams, I should have tried the t marks. I was too scared to mess something up haha.
Thanks for the fantastic video. Finally got around to doing the second timing belt on our ‘05 Sequoia at 190k. Very easy to follow! Btw, the cam “T” marks were the way to go when removing the belt. Thanks again!
I concur with comments about great content quality. Appreciate the in depth explanations. I also would love to see a 4.7 Toyota/Lexus starter replacement.
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Thanh wants to replace his starter as preventative maintenance so this video will happen at some point soon.
Great video. Thanks for the torque numbers. I tried to get the belt on the Toyota way and just couldn't. It seemed too smalll so I tried it your way and and it went on first time. Perfect!! Love the video.
Did this job yesterday. Lined up to the T and no jumping, worked great. 2005 Lexus GX470. The only issue was the compressor, the lower bolt didnt seem long enough with that little bracket (yes its one of the long ones, not the shorter one used in the back of the compressor). So proceeded without the bracket...
Yep, many other people have commented and reported the same thing that the "T" position worked to have the cams stay put. That's interesting about that AC bracket bolt.
Hey Tim - love the video but ive found myself hung up here. I lined up everything upon removal, got the belt back on like it was supposed to be and rotated the engine before pulling the pin. Things didnt seem to stay lined up so i removed the belt but my camshaft marks are no longer lined up. How do i get the camshafts back in the correct positions so i can re install the belt and then timing belt tensioner? Thank you!!
@@TimmyTheToolman Complete! I finished Sunday. I was so nervous to start the engine and vroom!! Success. Thanks again I had you there step by step! GOODAnTight Lol. I have had the vsc trak lights on for sometime anything I can do to figure out why and fix?
@@YoJoeySmacks Good job Eliot. The VSC Trac lights coming on after this job isn't something we experienced. The one time I dealt with those lights and was able to get them cleared is when I swapped out a hydraulic brake booster on a GX470. Somehow the "Zero Point Calibration" gets thrown off and you have to reset it. The only problem though is you need the Toyota Tech Stream program to do it. Check out this video and go to play time 36 minutes and 26 seconds: ruclips.net/video/EMRvzD0ep3A/видео.html
Wow man, I may subscribe. You have a good knack of this, one of the better DIY step-by-step vids I've seen for ANY repair. Nice job! I'm a new 4.7 owner (bought w/ 221K mi) in a Tundra, an experienced DIYer, and not afraid of most repairs. Most recently on a Ford 5.7 I did a TC/WP replacement, and frankly this looks like a cleaner job, even if it's slightly more involved. DOHC will do that. 😁 But Toyotas are easier to work on anyway.
May subscribe? You're a hard sell. If this video didn't impress you enough to subscribe, I guess nothing will. By the way, we will have more content as time goes on for the 4.7 liter engine.
MAY subscribe?? WTF, seriously? Dude, how hard is it for you to left-click on your frikn mouse? These guys spent around 50 hours of their time to make/edit this video, not to mention a whole library full more, just to selflessly save SO many people, including me, a shit-ton of time & frustration...but you're not quite sure if it's worth subscribing to the channel?? Actually, here's to hoping you didn't. I'd hate to have to read any more of these lame-ass, worthless comments. What a total frikn DERP! 🤪
Excellent video! I just finished my 07 4runner. Cams at T marks was the way to go. One thing that had me paranoid is the engine sounds after the fact, but i see that your engine sounds the same. I'm talking about the injectors clicking like a bag of marbles being stirred. I must not have noticed it before
Thanks for the compliment Goran. Also thanks for confirming the T marks are the way to go. Others have reported the same. Yeah, the engine always sounded like that. We just alerted your ears to it and now you notice it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Thank u very much for this video....I learned a lot. I do have one question. I own a 2004 tundra 4.7 it won't start. I noticed that the timing marks on the camshafts don't line up. Is it possible the engine is broken? It died while the wife was driving. Thank u for your help and you video
When you installed the new timing belt on, I see that you have the timing marks lined up for both cams but was the crank lined up at top dead center? Because you uninstalled the belt with the crank at 50 degrees counterclockwise from top dead center. I'm just wondering if it stayed like that when you went to install the new belt or did you position back to top dead center before installing the new timing belt.
Where do you suggest sourcing a very specific bolt that I found was missing during the disassembly? I’m missing one of the 12mm bolts that holds the number 2 timing belt cover (upper most bolt). Luckily it’ll still be easily accessible without taking too much off but I definitely want to get it on there soon because it goes through the water pump…
The "T" ends up being the safe spot to turn the camshaft pulley timing marks to so the cams don't jump when you remove the timing belt. This is not documented in the factory service manuals, though.
Hi Tim, First off, Great videos, very informative. ~min.10:55 of vid2. you mention the bolt to the tensioner is a “through” bolt. Does that mean the hole is open to the back of the oil pump? I ask because when I removed mine, the threads came with it, I was about to chase the threads, but when I blew air lo clean the hole, I heard air in the crankcase. Is that supposed to be the case? Or do I have to pull the engine to replace the oil pump assembly? Thanks in advance.
Yes, it goes all the way through the back of the pump. You're probably doing to have to install a helicoil or time sert to fix it. Put some grease on the drill and tap to collect most of the metal shavings. You don't need to replace the oil pump.
Thank you for the pinned torque values. I see that only lock tight is used on one bolt and want to verify no other sealant is used? I can not find anything in references. The fasteners near the t-stat all had old sealant that I cleaned off. Also noticed 2m? antennas?
Yeah, just loctite on that one through bolt that attaches the lower idler pulley to the oil pump. I don't understand your last two questions 2m? Antennas? You lost me on those.
You certainly could but cam position sensors aren't something that are known to be a common part that fails. They can fail for sure, but they could also easily last the life of the engine as well.
Hi there, awesome tutorial! Got both cams on tdc Mark, crankshaft gear notch lined up with little dot on oil pump, put on belt, along with tensioner, then rotated clockwise twice, and all marks still lined up. Pulled the pin, two more rotations, still lined up. But then, when I put harmonic balancer back on, the mark on the balancer is at 5* instead of the 0(tdc Mark). What happened!? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Doesn't make sense, Unless there's major slop with how the harmonic balance fits onto the crankshaft, what you reported doesn't add up. Sometimes the slot in the harmonic balancer that slides over the woodruff key gets wallowed out so there's side to side play which would explain why it's not lining up with the "0" timing mark. If the harmonic balance woodruff key slot isn't wallowed out, I don't understand what could have happened, but it's not correct.
Have you heard of putting the Cams to the T mark bc it puts cams in a position that it move after belt removed? I’ve heard of this. There’s tons of debate about this 2nd way of doing it. Basically you put everything ATDC and nothing moves on you. What way is best?
Yes, we've heard of it. We talked about it in the video, so I'm assuming you didn't watch the video. The "T" position works. It has been confirmed by many of our viewers.
@@TimmyTheToolman I used the “T” position on my 2008 4Runner V8 and it did not work. The rh cam jumped about 2 teeth, the LH cam jumped about 6 or 7 teeth. I’m going to button it up tomorrow and will be worrying until I start it tomorrow.
@@joer1056 You're the first person since this video went live that said the T position didn't work. Don't worry, your engine is fine. The cams jumping with the engine not running isn't going to do any harm.
Hello, at 10:55 you mentioned the bolt tensioner need to have tread lock... Does this apply to the idler tensioner? I recently did a TB replacement and now have oil leak around the oil pump. I pulled the covers off hoping it's the cam seal but not the case. The oil pump is covered with oil. Water pump housing and timming gear area is dry. I only change the tensioner pulley so I didn't take off the bolt. I went back and look at the before pix and the oil pump was dry.
Hey guys do you know what size bolts are used for the crankshaft holding tool? I bought the one you suggested but it came with M8x1.25 bolts which is too big in diameter. I’m doing a timing belt on a 2008 tundra 4.7
Getting code P0335 after doing this job, and truck will not start. If wiring is the issue, any guides out there on how to repair it? Timing, crank shaft sensor plate positioning seem OK
If crankshaft position sensor is properly connected and the crankshaft position sensor plate doesn't have any missing teeth, I don't know what else you could check.
Just wrapped up bolting everything back together last night, still need to burp the system. Super informative. Got a question tho, I was not thinking at one point prior to removing old belt and cam pulley (even the #1 timing cover) rotated the pulley counterclockwise to align pulley with the 0 mark, did I hurt myself? Maybe 3/4’s of a turn. And all timing lines up after full 2 turns clockwise. Cheers mate!
You're local Toyota or Lexus dealer. Or, you could simply go to a hardware store and buy some bolts. I don't know for sure what size and thread pitch those bolts are but I bet they are an M8 bolt with a 1.25 thread pitch. By looking at the video, you can take an educated guess on the length. But, your local dealer could get those bolts for you and probably wouldn't charge you that much.
Both videos are great. Get your degree in teaching. Oh, the jiggle valve is an air bleed device so the thermostat bulb can be bathed in coolant upon filling. I learned quickly to drill a hole through the thermostat and orient the hole at the 12:00 position on Ford's Windsor motors.
@@TimmyTheToolman (04 sequoia) okay i did turn it and after turning it 2 revolutions, the camshaft timing marks arent lined up anymore. should i take the belt off and put it bak at TDC ? thank you for responding.
@joshuawilliams7958 Don't worry about the lines on the belt. Those are just there to help you get the belt on correctly. You're just looking to see that the cam pulleys timing notches line up with their respective timing marks, and the crankshaft timing gear lines up with its mark. The lines on the belt won't line back up for many revolutions of the engine. How many it takes, I don't know, but it's not important. Make sense?
@joshuawilliams7958 Yeah, a lot of people get thrown off when they rotate the engine and the belt lines no longer match up. It's common. Good luck putting everything back together. You're doing it right taking your time and being careful. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, thank you for these videos. I have a question. So I am at the point of putting the timing belt back on. Following your instructions, you say the arrow points to the front of the vehicle. If I do that, the left and right marks on the belt are then reversed, as in the left cam timing mark is on the right, and the right timing mark is then on the left. So I am wondering if they have changed the markings on the belt. So my question is, should I put the left mark to the left gear with the arrow facing rearward, or continue on as you suggest? I am using the same kit displayed in this video, by Aisin. Thank you for your time! Again thank you for these videos as I don’t believe I would have been able to do this myself with out them, nor have the courage to attempt it.
Just to be sure you're on the same page, the right camshaft is on the passenger side of the engine and the left camshaft is on the driver side. Its right and left as if you were sitting in the driver's seat. Is that the way you're looking at it?
Hello. Great video. When removing my old timing belt, the cams shifted. Right cam shifted left and left cam shifted right. Q: Do I just simply turn each cam back to TDC marks?
Yes, but I would turn them to the "T" position because many people have reported the cams don't jump in that position. When it comes time to put the new belt on, then turn the cams to TDC.
More time than we had George. Filming pretty much doubles the time it takes to do a job. Try it some time and then you'll know our pain. But yeah, in a perfect world, we would have made the parts all look very pretty.
i meant the Vvti oil control filters part number 1567846020. If these filter get clogged results in poor acceleration and gas mileage. There are 2 on 2UZfe.
@@andyg5004 We don't have a video for that. Where are they located on the engine? I'm not super versed on the 2UZ-FE engine. My first experience with this engine was doing the timing belt job.
Hey Tim! quick question, the Crank bolt is TTY, and i am replacing it. I have non VVTi engine, are the gam gear bolts TTY as well? I cant find this answer anywhere. Also, i read somewhere that it is ok to use FIPG for the 10mm timing tensioner, but you said Toyota recommends thread lock. the FSM i read doesn't even mention the tensioner. what's your thoughts
The cam bolts aren't torque to yield. You can reuse them. As for the 10mm hex bolt for the tensioner pulley, I think FIPG would be fine. You just want some type of sealant on the threads because that bolt hole is a through bolt into the oil pump. Engine oil could leak through the threads.
Unfortunately my 2005 Sequoia timing belt broke when the water pump locked up. New belt is in place but no compression on 7 cylinders. Do you know if there is any history of piston or rod damage from piston hitting valves. I'm wondering if valve repair is all that is needed or if pistons/rods may be damaged.
I don't think the rods or pistons would get damaged but valves could certainly get bent. I would say pulling the heads would be in order if you're going to try to repair it yourself.
@@kenwall4526 Ken, the 2UZ-FE is an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks while the engine is running, the pistons can run into the valves and bend them. With the engine not running, the jumping of the cams when you disconnected the belt isn't a huge deal. Even if a valve did contact the piston head, there's not enough force from the valve spring tension to do any damage. You just don't want to start turning the cams a bunch independent of the crankshaft. If you simply move the cam the short distance back to TDC from where it jumped, you're going to be ok. Trust me. It happened to us and the engine was fine.
Hey Timmy I have a 2005 Lexus GX470 I was on the highway about 65 miles per hour and in the engine light start flashing I pull over engine still running not very good then it stopped would not start back up. Had it towed home. Read the codes said it was a misfire. Found out the tensioner for the time belt came lose and was digging into the belt. Is there a good chance Debt some of the valves may have been damaged because of this
There is a chance since it's an interference engine. Just do the timing belt job and cross your fingers you got lucky. I have heard of people breaking a timing belt with this engine and they've been ok. Let me know the result once after you complete the job.
Great videos!!!! Over this last weekend I did the water pump, timing belt and other parts on my 2005 Tundra since it was apart. I used the T marks and the cams stayed in place after removing the belt. After getting everything reinstalled. I went to start it up and nothing!!!! Gotta say my heart sank.....I forgot to reconnect up the battery.....What a Dumb Ass!! But after reconnecting the battery, the truck fired right up and is running great !!!! Also liked your jokes!!!! Thanks!
Thanks Anne. Great to hear our videos helped you get the job done. Thanks for confirming the T marks for the cams worked for you. Also thanks for appreciating my humor. Not many mention it but we try to break up the monotony of these videos with a little humor. You're very welcome Anne. Happy Wrenching!
I've got a code for camshaft position sensor bank1 and bank2. I turn the key and it just makes a loud click once but won't turn over. Where is the 2nd sensor?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I've been at it for 3 days now and everyone has a different answer. I thought I knew everything about my rig but I'm getting schooled now. I waited until the end to ask you. I only asked because others have called that the crankshaft sensor. There's so many that I'm beside myself. I almost miss the days where you could crawl inside your hood compartment and get at everything with ease.
@@nickschuldt9229 In Part 1, start watching at play time 26 minutes and 30 seconds. The connector we disconnect on the camshaft cover is the cam position sensor. ruclips.net/video/zRPhl1xcYYw/видео.html I understand your confusion. I believe there is just one sensor. There isn't a sensor taking a reading from the passenger side camshaft. I'd replace the one on the driver side and I think your problem will be solved.
Does your manual for this vehicle show not to re-use the crank bolt? My repair manuals with 1MZ-FE engines do not show a "diamond shape" icon for non-reusable on the crank bolts. I'm going to be doing the belt job on my 99 ES300 soon and had no intention of buying a new crank bolt because of the manual.
We just took this from our experience with the 5VZ-FE V6 engine. The Toyota FSM suggests replacing the crank bolt on those engines so we sort of assumed this was a suggestion for all Toyota engines due to the very high torque value the bolts are torqued to.
I am doing this job as I type and @ 19:27 that timing belt cover spacer #11348AC010 is missing on my motor. When looking at the old belt and counting the teeth from L cam to R cam it is 73 teeth apart on the old belt and it does not have any printed lines on it so then counting the new belt it is 71 teeth apart from mark to mark with that being said the old belt was two teeth off. The old belt was also off one tooth at the crankshaft. So I am a little nervous now after installing the new belt at the proper marks. Do you think the engine could run proper being that it was off a couple of teeth? I am just hoping the motor will run proper now that I have made this change with the new belt. I did rotate the motor a few times after installing the new belt until it returned to where all the marks lined UP again and everything seems fine. There were no problems rotating the motor. The guy at the dealer said that if you don't replace that belt cover spacer that mice can get UP in your motor and when you go to start the engine they can get caught in the belt and make the belt jump a tooth or two. I believe that is what happened with my motor because there was a nest in behind the lower crank cover. I am saying a prayer to the one and only GOD that this all works out because I am not going to want to have to pull everything apart again! What is your opinion on this matter being that you work on these motors more than I do?
Engines can run decent with the timing a little off. A couple teeth off does seem like quite a bit. Without a doubt, you want to get the timing right and not set the timing where it was before, a couple teeth off. Get all 3 timing marks lined up like we show in the video and you'll be good. Double check your work by doing 2 full revolutions of the crankshaft to confirm all 3 marks still line up before putting the engine back together. Let me know how it all turns out when you're all done. Don't stress Mike, you're doing great.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! I really enjoy working on my own vehicles but was surprised at the belt not matching UP! Got the new belt lined UP as per TDC and belt marks. Love your videos brother. Thank you for your help I am learning every time I watch you make mistakes! Hahaha.
@@mikekmalick Good to hear you got the belt on. Yep, I make plenty of mistakes. What most people don't know is most of the jobs we film it's us doing the job for the very first time. This was my first time doing a timing belt job on this engine. So, we are learning and teaching at the same time. Enjoy the rest of the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Finished my timing belt, water pump, thermostat power steering high pressure line job and everything worked out perfect!v I am very happy with job and I believe truck is running better than ever.
*NOTE* - At play time 06:00, We used Black 103 FIPG to reseal the water inlet to the water pump. We learned after the fact that Toyota has a FIPG meant specifically for coolant applications. It's *Toyota Seal Packing 1282b, Part **#08826**-00100.* We have heard people haven't had issues with using the 103 FIPG for these types of coolant applications, but to play it safe, we suggest you use 1282b FIPG.
*TORQUE VALUES*
*Water Pump*
5 bolts - 16 ft-lbs
2 stud bolts and nut - 13 ft-lbs
*Water Inlet*
2 bolts - 13 ft-lbs
*Thermostat Neck*
3 Bolts - 14 ft-lbs
*#2 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
25 ft-lbs
*#1 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
25 ft-lbs
*Timing Belt Tensioner*
19 ft-lbs
*#1 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*Crank Bolt*
181 ft-lbs
*Fan Bracket*
12mm bolt and nut - 12 ft-lbs
14mm bolt and nut - 24 ft-lbs
*Dynamic Tensioner*
bolts and nuts - 11 ft-lbs
*#2 Timing Belt Cover Sub Assembly*
12 ft-lbs
*#3 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*Oil Cooler Pipe*
bolt and nut - 66 in-lbs
*#2 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*#2 Idler Pulley Sub Assembly*
29 ft-lbs
*Alternator*
12mm nut - 12 ft-lbs
14mm nut and bolt - 29 ft-lbs
*Power Steering Pump*
nut and bolts - 32 ft-lbs
*Radiator*
9 ft-lbs
Thanks! Really appreciate the time you took to make a thorough video for this motor. It's my first time doing this for this truck. Glad to find your channel 👍.
Enjoy the beer
You're very welcome Paul. Great to know our video helped you out. Thanks for the beer!
Replaced my engine and absolutely couldn't have been successful without Timmy! I did my prayer to the timing belt gods, and they were forgiving... started right up.
It's great to hear you were successful with your engine swap with the help of our videos. It's awesome when the Wrenching Gods are on our side. Awesome job doing that job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Watched both videos before tackling this job. Read tons of comments in both comment sections and applied some of their tips/lessons learned. Used the videos along the way under the hood. Tons of great information!! This saved me so much time and money! I appreciate your dedication and attention to detail. You guys are the best!
Glad it worked out for you. Great job tackling this job. I bet it feels good doing such an involved job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
I didn’t watch the whole video but why the change of the fan bracket assembly?
By far the best tutorial videos on the entire internet!
Thanks Bro! We appreciate your very nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
true!!!! I've been looking for good tutorials and watching Timmy's have been the best!!
You are one professional mechanic who gave most torque thigthening specifications n gave professional tips for the DUY
@leoramirez7811 Thanks, Leo! I appreciate the compliment.
Hands down THE best tutorial on this job! Tim and Shawn are the most important tools for Toyota trucks service and repairs
Hey Dan, we are stoked to hear comments like these and super appreciate that you took the time to share your feedback! Don’t hesitate to drop a comment on one of your videos if you have a question - we pride ourself in answering comments on a timely fashion!
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman not a problem Sean. I think Toyota tech trainers are secretly using your camera work to make their jobs easier. I'm going to post a question on your u-joint video... and probably buy a t-shirt to support you guys.
Send me an email at hmb4rnr@gmail.com
And we will send out some stickers for ya 🤙🏼
I was able to replace a rear axle shaft a couple of years ago on my first gen 2003 Tundra thanks to your excellent tutorial videos (and the help of an ingeniously made jig purchased on eBay). It's no longer my daily driver - that honor goes to a Toyota 86 - but, with 240,000 miles on the old girl, the little angel sitting on my shoulder is warning me that I really should replace the belt on this interference (boo) engine. I may pay to have it done but if I decide to tackle it myself, it will be because of these two videos. You are a great teaching mechanic.
Hey Mikey, great to hear our videos have helped you out and we appreciate your kind words. I think you should do the timing belt job. If you take your time, you'll get it done no problem. Happy Wrenching!
I'm just an average mechanic at home and aircraft mechanic at work. I'm good with tools. This was first timing belt job ever. I have a 2008 tundra with 61k miles on it. Belt was way over due. With this step by steps series. I was able to complete it with no problems. Thank you for this!
You're very welcome! I'm happy to know our video series helped you get this job done.
Just tackled my 2uz-fe on my 06 DC Tundra w/ the VVT. I watched your videos two times each and had it playing as I did the job. Could not have asked for a better tutorial to do this job. I too used the “T” marks beside the actual timing marks and had zero issues with the cams wanting to move. Thanks for the time and effort put into making these videos. Keep em coming!
Hey Aaron, great to know our video series helped you get the timing belt job done on your Tundra. Great Job and Happy Wrenching!
I intentionally listened to the advice to remove the belt on the T mark instead of the proper marks, and it has bitten me in the butt. It's throwing P0018 and P0016 codes. Now I have to take it all apart again.
@TimmyTheToolman I would greatly appreciate some additional guidance on how to realign everything now that it is off timing.
Never done this before. Water pump locked up and timing belt broke. But I watch a part come off, paused video and took part off. Then repeated through the entire part 1 video. Putting back together done same thing with this video. Now I'm back on the road with just the price of parts. Thank you guys.
That's a good way to use video tutorials. I do the same thing. Watch a section, pause the video, perform the step and repeat until you're done with the job. Great to hear you were successful using our video.
This is the BEST 2uz-fe timing belt video on the web. Believe me, I’ve watched them all. This is my 4th or 5th timing belt job on a 4Runner. I buy and sell them for fun. This video was accurate, well filmed, with good explanations of ALL of the steps. SUBSCRIBED !!!!!!!!!>
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Quick question as I’m about to tackle this job. If you use the T marks, then when you put back on the new belt, where does the CR mark on the belt line up to?
@MrCalifornia1234 I haven't confirmed it on this engine, but other Toyota engines have a small timing dot on the front face of the crankshaft timing gear. It's easy to miss. If you find it, the CR line should line up with that dot.
Best auto service tutorial I’ve ever seen, let along for the 2uz-fe. 👍🏻
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it very much.. We always try our best to give the most detail and information possible in our videos so people can be successful using one of our tutorials. Happy Wrenching!
Very informative for me as a DIYer and the video is so amazingly clear. I will be using your video guide in my 2002 LX470 timing belt project in the coming days. Thank you so much for this.
You're very welcome. Good luck with the timing belt job. Be sure to read the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for additional information for the job.
Awesome job Timmy & Tam. Great job guys. Thank you.
Thanks Edy. You're very welcome.
Hey tim, doing a timing belt on an 02 sequoia. I took the belt off at the I mark and not the T for the cams and the dimple lined up at the crank/oil pump. That did not work as the cams kept jumping and was constantly off a tooth when performing the hand rotation with belt and tensioner on. Advanced the cams to T marks and advanced the crank. Installed the belt and performed hand rotation of belt. 2 full revolutions and everything lined up. Just a heads up. Non vvti 4.7l.
Thanks for the comment. Many others have also reported the "T" position is the correct position to put the cams at to eliminate the cams from jumping. Good job doing the timing belt job on your own. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim, I have a 2008 Gx470, I used the "T" marks, nothing slipped, the cams stayed in place. everything worked perfect. I followed your step by step instructions. First time doing anything like this.... awesome job! if you have the tools, do it!!! Thanks!!!
Thanks Kevin for letting us know that. That's a big help. We appreciate it. That's great the job went well for you using our video as a tutorial. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@kevinvick thank you for saying that. Should I use those T marks as well?. I posted a question asking about that and what they are.
@@TimmyTheToolman I used the T marks Taking the old timing belt off do I use the T marks installing the new timing belt or do I use the the regular timing lines ? Are the T marks for removing the timing belt or are the T marks also used fir installing new timing belt
@@aurelioroyce9931 The T position really has nothing to do with getting the belt on properly. You need to get the lines (Right and Left Cams) on the new belt properly lined up with the timing marks on each camshaft pulley, and then you need to get the timing line for the crankshaft lined up with the crankshaft timing gear. I didn't say it in the video, but there should be a small timing dot on the crankshaft timing gear that faces forward towards the radiator. That timing dot, should line up with the "CR" line on the timing belt. Once you get all 3 timing marks lined up, you do a couple full revolutions of the engine and confirm the camshaft pulleys line up with their respective timing marks and the crankshaft timing gear lines up with its respective timing mark and you're good to go.
I just paid Toyota to do my timing belt on my tundra with the 2uz fe. They charged me $2500 for the job which included the camshaft seals. Now I understand why. Great video! Lots of valuable information! Thank you!
That is a crazy amount of money. Did they tell you the camshaft seals were leaking and that's why they replaced them? Thanh's engine had over 200k and his didnt show any signs of leaking yet. Doing the camshaft seals would be a lot more labor, but still, $2500 is a crazy amount for a timing belt job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for this information! $2800 is what I was quoted from a small shop in Daly City this week. Included in this was the Cam seals (there is no signs of leaking). Otherwise he has it would be closer to 1,600.
@@kat4animals004 $1600 is still a crap load of money. I'd use our tutorial and buy the tools you need. The tools you can use again and again to save you even more money.
@@TimmyTheToolman I would like to but I am not sure if the time is right. Would you be able to do the job on my tundra? I could help- assist with job, film... I would drive to you and bring all parts. I'd travel from Concord. Would you consider this?
@@TimmyTheToolman Also- If you wanna- I have an mechanical issue that I have Never seen addressed. My horn does Not work! Only intermittently, then only a short beep. I purchased tundra this way in 2017. Replaced the relay and that did not resolve the issue. Would you like to use my tundra for a repair video!? I have not seen any videos or any instruction of this issue, and I have searched on and off for years.
Thanks Tim! I just completed a timing belt and water pump job on my 2005 Tundra. For the most part your video lines up with my Tundra. I think there is a little more room in my engine bay than the vehicle in your video. I can’t emphasize enough how an extra set of hands helps on this job. Made it through it regardless. Great Video!
Good job Brett! Great to hear our video helped you out. Yes, an extra set of hands is very nice to have. One of the last jobs I did on my 3rd Gen 4runner, I was solo and really needed help at one point because I needed a 3rd hand. With a little help from my wife, I easily got past the stumbling block and finished the job.
Just finished my 2003 4Runner and your videos helped so much! I appreciate you taking the time to do these detailed videos. It was a 2 day ordeal for me on my own but it’s finally done🤙🏽
Good to know our videos helped you get the job done. Great job!
Just changed the timing belt in my 2000 lx470 using this video as a guide. Your instructions were so detailed! Thanks so much y’all!
@@ChristopherKing-p9r Sicmods brotha! Super stoked our video allowed you to accomplish this repair. That’s what our channel is all about! Don’t forget to like the video and subscribe!
😅🤘🏼
- Sean
Ok, now I have just enough information to get myself in trouble. I did this about 10 years ago on the same truck. I now have 200,000 miles and it is time to do it again but I forgot how, so TIMMY is the go to guy on all things Toyota. Thank you for your work and time on the videos. Always informative and entertaining.
You'll be fine Paul. We did find out the "T" position for the cams is the right spot to turn them to before removing the belts. People have reported the cams won't jump in that position.
You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Take your time and enjoy it. Happy Wrenching!
I might've said this before, but I really appreciate the extra details you discuss for us novices. I recently did a drum brake job with your video playing. I noticed other RUclipsrs explain jobs while having your videos play in the background. You are a pretty good resource for us Toyota owners.
(Comment from Sean) Hey thanks for the kind word Pluto! You’ve really noticed other RUclipsrs with our videos playing in the background? That’s pretty cool. Glad our videos were able to help you out!
(Comment from Timmy) Great to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. We purposely gear our videos to the absolute beginner because then everyone can be successful, not just the experienced paid or DIY mechanic.
I find the other thing you said very interesting. So, you're saying other DIY Mechanic RUclipsrs are making their own video for a job and you noticed they were playing our video in the background as a reference? Could you send us a link with one of those videos and a time stamp where you can clearly see that they're using our video as a reference? I guess the ultimate flattery is somebody copying your own work. Do these RUclipsrs mention us and give us credit as one of their resources for the job? We obviously want people to benefit from our videos, but if they use our content and then try to pass it off as their own with no mention of us, that's not something we like. There was a guy that did a write-up of a timing belt job on a Tacoma forum that mimicked exactly what we instruct in our videos. The guy did make mention of our 2 part video but it was like it was an afterthought. I told the guy that he should have just said at the very beginning his write-up was based on our video series to clearly give us credit for the work we put forth. We're not perfect, but Sean and I usually try to give credit to the people we used as a reference for our videos. We think it's important to give credit where credit is due.
@@TimmyTheToolman there is one where your voice is faintly playing in the background for several seconds, talking about a job, while the youtuber is talking to us about the same job. I think it was about a suspension lift. I doubt I could find it if I tried. Forgettable video.
There was a commenter on that video who also noticed your voice/auido playing. The channel itself was two 20-something guys in a garage, acting all nonchalant, but it was a dedicated, monetized car channel nonetheless.
I was talking in the plural in the first comment, but it was just that one video that I heard your video in. That said, I suspect many more people follow you when making their own YT videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just flicked through a bunch of thumbnails, but don't know the one I'm looking for. I don't think I can find it. I will take note if I see that stuff again. It would irritate the hell out of me. It's like writing a book based on a book.
@@plutosforest No worries. Glad you agree with my position. Hopefully these people using our content gave us some credit.
Thanks so much! Just spent a couple of days taking my time with my computer sitting on my intake manifold. Best how to series ever!
You're very welcome, Micaell. We're glad our video series helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Just want to say thanks for all this info. Completed the job with this tutorial. For someone wondering, if you’re organized and take your time you can do this.
For the cam jumping, I found that if you align the timing mark on the balancer with 0, then turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark lines up with the nub on the timing cover, the timing marks on the cams will align with the “T” and you shouldn’t have an issue.
Also, if you don’t have an impact gun and test the alignment of your timing belt by rotating the engine, the crank bolt can be tough to get off. If you’re having this problem, put a short wrench on the crank bolt and give it a few good taps with a mallet and it should break free.
Glad our video helped you get the job done. You're welcome. Thanks for confirming the "T" spot on the cams is good for keeping the cams from jumping and sharing your tip for the crank bolt removal after rotating the engine. Happy Wrenching!
I used this and Part 1 to replace my timing belt on a '99 LX470. I went by the FSM for everything except the timing belt installation. Getting tension between the cams was the most important part of the installation process. That and making sure nothing fell out of time. Thanks for your help, Timmy. PS - I'd recommend putting the water inlet on last next time ; )
Glad our videos helped you out. If I ever do another timing belt job on one of these engines, I'll use your recommendation.
Great job Tim! I started watching your videos when I had a gen 3 4Runner and now you have me covered for my next big project with my GX470. As always you go above and beyond to help us all understand what it takes to get the job done. Thanks for all your hard work!
Thanks Daniel. It's interesting, many other guys said something similar that they knew us when they had a 3rd Gen 4runner but now they either have an LX470 or GX470. We always really try to cover the job as thoroughly as possible so nobody gets lost using one of our videos as a tutorial. Reading comments like yours lets us know we're doing things right. We do from time to time get people whining that our videos are too long but these people are in the severe minority. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching. Hope your timing belt job goes smooth.
Just finished this job using your two videos as a step by step guide... Great job taking the time to break the procedure down into each step and going into such great detail. That had to be a lot of work, but it sure made it easy on my end... I set up a laptop and just paused the video at each step. I would like to add that I think you're right about using the "T" on the heads to line up with the cams' timing marks before removing the belt. My truck is an '05 4runner... one of the ones that you're supposed to turn the crank 50 degrees COUNTER clockwise from TDC. The Toyota shop manual, a Haynes manual and the instructions that came with my Gates timing belt kit all said to turn the crankshaft COUNTER clockwise 50 degrees before removing the belt. I opted to trust the manuals and both of my cams jumped quite a bit when I removed the belt (no damage as it turns out... I was worried though!) I did notice that both cams wanted to naturally rest in the position where the timing mark on the sprocket lines up with the "T" on the head so I think you were right by suggesting that using the "T" as a starting point is the better option... at least on my engine. There seems to be an error in the Toyota procedure. Again, great job! Thank you!
Hey Paul, great to hear you appreciate the work we put into these videos. Yes, it's a ton of work to film and edit a project like this. Thanks for confirming that the "T" position for the crank pulleys seems to be the right position to put them in before removing the belt. Also, thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Brother just did water pump and timing belt your video knocked it out of the fucking park! I can admit without it I would be stuck.
It's great to know our video helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. I appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
First thanks a lot!!! I recently got an '02 sequoia after selling my 98 4Runner. The sequoia had no service history so I knew that the timing belt job would have to be done asap. My truck is non VVTi so I was able to replace the cam seals, which are most likely a similar style to that on the 5VZFE. Also thanks, I'm a full time teacher and only 24, not a auto tech by trade but I love cars (Toyotas and Lexus specifically) your channel has helped me more times than once and I'm almost finished with this job thanks to your help!
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out.
Tim, I wanted to let you know that this video is so well done that it inspired me to purchase a 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser. I know the engine in mine is a little different but not much different. Thanks for the great content. Tell Sean as well.
That's a cool story Richard. Thanks for sharing it with us.
The best RUclips video of timing belt change of 2UZ-FE.
Thanks for the compliment.
Best video I ended up just following you along while working on my car. Ended up leaving the thermostat housing off until I got everything lined up. Also on my vvt engine just put the new belt on the t marks. Everything lined up perfect. Also left the idler and tensioner wheel loose which made it much easier to get the belt onto the crank sprocket then torque down those two down and pulled the tensioner pin once verified the marks lined up. Now have to do my other truck.
Good job! I'm glad our video assisted you in getting it done.
And the Oscar for best automotive repair video of the year goes to .... Timmy and crew. Holy crap - what an epic experience. Script, videography, lighting, production quality, etc. were excellent. Also the notes in the comment section, tool recommendations, the whole enchilada. How long did this job take to do? (real elapsed time). And how much post editing time did it take to produce this masterpiece for automotive repair history? Do you have a day job, or is this your fulltime gig? I kneel in reverence... This is the gold standard for "how to" videos.
Hey Dwight, I really appreciate your very nice compliment of our work. You made my day!
I'll give you an idea of what goes into a video like this since you asked.
1) To start, I do research and watch any existing videos others have done to pick up tips and other helpful information. I'll also read forum write-uos that I find. Don't know how many hours I spent doing this but probably somewhere around 4.
2) I read the Toyota or Lexus Facfory Service Manual pages for the job. Sometimes this requires me to buy a subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website so I can access the information and download it in a PDF format, like I had to do for this job. This probably took me around 3 hours to download and read through the material to become familiar with it.
3) Before the job, I went over the parts list with Thanh to make sure he had everything we needed. Sometimes we have everything and other times we have to make a run to Toyota because we didn't have a part we needed. Probably another hour for this.
4) The 3 three of us found a date that worked with all our schedules and we committed a whole day to it.
5) It's interesting you mentioned a script. We have an idea of how we want the video to flow, but none of the dialog is scripted. We take it right off the top of our heads while we are shooting.
6) This job took us all day, can't remember how long but most likely 8-10 hours.
7) The editing for us on a 2-part video like this is easily 30 hours, but that's just a guesstimate.
8) Getting all the information together for the video description is probably another 3 hours.
9) If my math is correct, the time expense is around 50 hours.
10) That's pretty much it for the time expense to get a video like this published on our channel, but in reality, the clock keeps ticking because we take the time to answer most people's questions and acknowledge their comments, like I'm doing for you.
Sean and I both have regular jobs. I'm a firefighter and he works for Apple. We love running our RUclips channel and reading comments like yours really helps fuel our desire to keep doing it. So, thank you, thank you, thank you for your compliment of our hard work and acknowledging our investment of time to put out a quality video for the DIY Mechanic Community. Happy Wrenching Dwight!
@@TimmyTheToolman Happy to recognize your efforts. Do you have a Patreon account? If not, you should consider it. You are saving people a considerable amount of time and money (and frustration), and I'm sure many of your viewers, me included, would be honored to buy you a beer, help defray your costs, and motivate you to keep up the good work.
@@dwight_klaus2981 Hey Dwight, we don't have a Patreon account. We've considered it but haven't started one yet. We do have a "Tip Jar" link on our home page that people have used to send us money. The link is under the picture of me, next to the links to our Facebook and Instagram pages.
I guess for me, I'd never want to charge people for access to our content and that's what I sort of understand a Patreon membership would be. People pay for access to things that others can't access without a membership.
At first when we got started, we weren't making any money. Now we're making a decent amount from RUclips, and from our Amazon and Ebay Associates Memberships.
Thanks again Dwight. We appreciate it!
@@dwight_klaus2981 I just saw your $10 Super Thanks. We appreciate it Dwight. I wish more people were like you. The high, high, high majority of people who use our videos don't comment to thank us for our efforts. They might give a thumbs up, and that's cool, but it doesn't have the same effect as reading a nice comment like you gave us. And, most of the people who use our videos don't bother to subscribe to our channel. It's almost like people feel they were owed the content we provided and they don't need to take the time to thank us for our efforts. Like you said, our videos are saving people lots of time, money and frustration, but they can't take a few minutes out of their day to thank us. That's unfortunate and speaks to what our society has become. The only thing our audience has to deal with is the annoying ads, but, that's a small price to pay for the content they get access to.
I like to surround myself with generous people who will go out of their way to help their fellow man. I don't care for selfish people. So, thanks for your unselfish acts of commenting to thank us and acknowledge our efforts and thanks for the donation.
Thank you for doing this! My wife’s 07 Sequoia is due this summer. I will be using this video. Keep up the good work!
You're welcome Craig. Hope the job goes smooth for you when you get around to doing it.
Hi Craig,
I just own a ‘07 Sequoia 4X4 last summer and i’m sure it need these maintenance job very soon. Replacing timing belt, camshaft/crankshaft seals and water pump.
I’ve done research but i’m afraid it’s not enough.
Have you done the job as you mentioned with your wife’s Sequoia? How did it go? As far as the timing was done? Did you had it on the “T” mark? Need some input on thses part. Thanks.
A true well spoken
gentleman on explaining his work !
Thanks Eugene. I appreciate that!
Awesome tutorial video. I just replaced the timing belt on my 4runner v8 , video helps a lot, thank you 🙏
@@peterchervatyuk4990 I'm glad our video helped you out. You're welcome.
Hay Timmy thanks so much for the video. I did my timing belt years ago, but couldn’t quite remember all the details and this video was perfect exactly what I needed. Thanks so much.
You're very welcome Ed. I'm glad our video helped you out.
Well, took everything apart over the weekend and constantly referred to this video. Thank you for the time put in.
I have the non VVTi engine in a sequoia and I went to the T marks for belt removal and no springing. I feel like it moved pretty freely between TDC and the T Marks. My opinion- I think it’s safe at both for non VVTi models.
You're welcome! Good job doing it yourself and saving a ton of money. Thanks for mentioning your experience with the "T" position and TDC.
Thanks for the video. As a kid that can't do brakes with a RUclips video this job was a long one, 20 hours first day. But I got it done on my 03 4runner.
You're very welcome and Good Job!
Thanks for the video Tim, I have a 2006 tundra and I can confirm that when I set the timing marks to the “T” atdc, the cams did not spring back.
Thanks for confirming that for us Steve. Others have said the same thing. Kind of weird how the factory service manuals for all the vehicles with this 2UZ engine have a multitude of different instructions on how to position the crankshaft before removing the belt, but not one of them mentions using the "T" marks for the cams.
Thanks Steve!
My 2006 Tundra sends its best.
How many miles did you have on it and did the belt look good still, assuming it's the 1st TB job?
Appreciate it
Great channel learning a lot ! I have a 2000 tundra V8 4.7 179,000. Ur videos helped me change 02 sensor , breakers now I’m going to tackle radiator flush. Thanks for all the great videos and information.
Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Just watching some videos in preparation for doing this job in the future, I have a sequoia and a GX, so it's not going to be too long until I need to do this service. Thanks for these videos man, seriously a life saver with all the detail you've given.
You're welcome Jordan. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Much love, 2006 tundra getting belt, pump and crank. Without the guidance I would blow my motor up
@@JamesDodge-db9xe I hope the job goes well for you. Happy Wrenching!
Such a great video! You guys really helped out a lot with many people that had to do this job.
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad our video series helped you out.
Great content! Please do a Starter replacement video for this engine if you get a chance.
We're already talking about it.
I just had a rodent chew up my starter connections it was definitely challenging.
The hardest part was taking the 3 bolts that hold the starter. I had to use a flex head ratchet and become a contortionist i used a strap to hold the wiring in the back as much out of the way it help but those three bolts took me hours to take off
I just finished up. Very helpful, doing this solo for the first time. The service manual steered me wrong when it came to the cams, I should have tried the t marks. I was too scared to mess something up haha.
it CAM be intimidating, but from others that have commented, it seems that putting everything at TDC seemed to work well for others
Thanks for the fantastic video. Finally got around to doing the second timing belt on our ‘05 Sequoia at 190k. Very easy to follow! Btw, the cam “T” marks were the way to go when removing the belt. Thanks again!
You're very welcome Tyler. Thanks for letting us know the "T" marks worked out for you. Many others have reported the same thing. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent video Tim, I took several pages of notes for when the time comes on mine, thank you very much!!
Thanks for the compliment Russell and you're very welcome. When the time comes, I hope the job goes smoothly for you.
Great video !
Thanky you
Yes. It is the best video we have ever seen?
Thanks!
Thanks Dwight!
Very good info
Thanks.
I concur with comments about great content quality. Appreciate the in depth explanations. I also would love to see a 4.7 Toyota/Lexus starter replacement.
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Thanh wants to replace his starter as preventative maintenance so this video will happen at some point soon.
Great video. Thanks for the torque numbers. I tried to get the belt on the Toyota way and just couldn't. It seemed too smalll so I tried it your way and and it went on first time. Perfect!! Love the video.
Thanks and I'm happy to know our video helped you get the job done.
Timmy, I stripped the aluminum threads where the tensioner pulley bolts in. Please help. How to I fix that??? Thanks in advance
@saadms You'll have to drill it out and either install a heli-coil or a time-seat. I had the same issue on a 3.4L engine.
Did this job yesterday. Lined up to the T and no jumping, worked great. 2005 Lexus GX470. The only issue was the compressor, the lower bolt didnt seem long enough with that little bracket (yes its one of the long ones, not the shorter one used in the back of the compressor). So proceeded without the bracket...
Yep, many other people have commented and reported the same thing that the "T" position worked to have the cams stay put. That's interesting about that AC bracket bolt.
Hey Tim - love the video but ive found myself hung up here. I lined up everything upon removal, got the belt back on like it was supposed to be and rotated the engine before pulling the pin. Things didnt seem to stay lined up so i removed the belt but my camshaft marks are no longer lined up. How do i get the camshafts back in the correct positions so i can re install the belt and then timing belt tensioner? Thank you!!
Just move the camshafts back to TDC in the direction that's shortest to get there. I can't imagine they are off more than a tooth or two.
TIMMY!
Thank you so much! You gave me the courage do it to my 2003 Sequoia. Your a great instructor! Thanks Brother 🤙
You're very welcome Eliot. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Complete! I finished Sunday. I was so nervous to start the engine and vroom!! Success. Thanks again I had you there step by step! GOODAnTight Lol.
I have had the vsc trak lights on for sometime anything I can do to figure out why and fix?
@@YoJoeySmacks Good job Eliot. The VSC Trac lights coming on after this job isn't something we experienced. The one time I dealt with those lights and was able to get them cleared is when I swapped out a hydraulic brake booster on a GX470. Somehow the "Zero Point Calibration" gets thrown off and you have to reset it. The only problem though is you need the Toyota Tech Stream program to do it. Check out this video and go to play time 36 minutes and 26 seconds: ruclips.net/video/EMRvzD0ep3A/видео.html
@@TimmyTheToolmanMy VSC Lights were on before I did the timing belt.
Wow man, I may subscribe. You have a good knack of this, one of the better DIY step-by-step vids I've seen for ANY repair. Nice job! I'm a new 4.7 owner (bought w/ 221K mi) in a Tundra, an experienced DIYer, and not afraid of most repairs. Most recently on a Ford 5.7 I did a TC/WP replacement, and frankly this looks like a cleaner job, even if it's slightly more involved. DOHC will do that. 😁 But Toyotas are easier to work on anyway.
May subscribe? You're a hard sell. If this video didn't impress you enough to subscribe, I guess nothing will. By the way, we will have more content as time goes on for the 4.7 liter engine.
MAY subscribe?? WTF, seriously? Dude, how hard is it for you to left-click on your frikn mouse? These guys spent around 50 hours of their time to make/edit this video, not to mention a whole library full more, just to selflessly save SO many people, including me, a shit-ton of time & frustration...but you're not quite sure if it's worth subscribing to the channel?? Actually, here's to hoping you didn't. I'd hate to have to read any more of these lame-ass, worthless comments. What a total frikn DERP! 🤪
Excellent video! I just finished my 07 4runner. Cams at T marks was the way to go. One thing that had me paranoid is the engine sounds after the fact, but i see that your engine sounds the same. I'm talking about the injectors clicking like a bag of marbles being stirred. I must not have noticed it before
Thanks for the compliment Goran. Also thanks for confirming the T marks are the way to go. Others have reported the same. Yeah, the engine always sounded like that. We just alerted your ears to it and now you notice it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Thank u very much for this video....I learned a lot. I do have one question. I own a 2004 tundra 4.7 it won't start. I noticed that the timing marks on the camshafts don't line up. Is it possible the engine is broken? It died while the wife was driving.
Thank u for your help and you video
Did the belt break?
When you installed the new timing belt on, I see that you have the timing marks lined up for both cams but was the crank lined up at top dead center? Because you uninstalled the belt with the crank at 50 degrees counterclockwise from top dead center. I'm just wondering if it stayed like that when you went to install the new belt or did you position back to top dead center before installing the new timing belt.
We positioned it back to TDC before putting the belt on.
Thank you - well put together video with solid explanations and great video work!
@Drkhig You're welcome, and thanks for the compliment of our work.
Thank you for the great instructions. I watched both videos and will buy and use the tools you recommended. I wish you were in Colorado. ..
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Best instructional video in RUclips thank you for sharing your experience.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome.
Where do you suggest sourcing a very specific bolt that I found was missing during the disassembly? I’m missing one of the 12mm bolts that holds the number 2 timing belt cover (upper most bolt). Luckily it’ll still be easily accessible without taking too much off but I definitely want to get it on there soon because it goes through the water pump…
Nice video best one! What is that “T” for next to the timing marks?
The "T" ends up being the safe spot to turn the camshaft pulley timing marks to so the cams don't jump when you remove the timing belt. This is not documented in the factory service manuals, though.
Hi Tim,
First off, Great videos, very informative. ~min.10:55 of vid2. you mention the bolt to the tensioner is a “through” bolt. Does that mean the hole is open to the back of the oil pump? I ask because when I removed mine, the threads came with it, I was about to chase the threads, but when I blew air lo clean the hole, I heard air in the crankcase. Is that supposed to be the case? Or do I have to pull the engine to replace the oil pump assembly? Thanks in advance.
Yes, it goes all the way through the back of the pump. You're probably doing to have to install a helicoil or time sert to fix it. Put some grease on the drill and tap to collect most of the metal shavings. You don't need to replace the oil pump.
Best video I have ever watched! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Best video ever?!! But Have you seen the shinning with Jack Nicolson???
- Sean
Thank you for the pinned torque values. I see that only lock tight is used on one bolt and want to verify no other sealant is used? I can not find anything in references. The fasteners near the t-stat all had old sealant that I cleaned off.
Also noticed 2m? antennas?
Yeah, just loctite on that one through bolt that attaches the lower idler pulley to the oil pump. I don't understand your last two questions 2m? Antennas? You lost me on those.
@@TimmyTheToolman CB antennas?
@@NS0O-EN33ec OH, gotcha. I don't know what CB antennas he's got.
Question....why not change the cam position sensor while you're in there replacing everything else?
You certainly could but cam position sensors aren't something that are known to be a common part that fails. They can fail for sure, but they could also easily last the life of the engine as well.
DUDE! YOU tha Timing Belt God
Where did you get the tool trays (orange) you have on the top of the engine/airbox?
I sent a reply to your other post.
Hi there, awesome tutorial! Got both cams on tdc Mark, crankshaft gear notch lined up with little dot on oil pump, put on belt, along with tensioner, then rotated clockwise twice, and all marks still lined up. Pulled the pin, two more rotations, still lined up. But then, when I put harmonic balancer back on, the mark on the balancer is at 5* instead of the 0(tdc Mark). What happened!? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Doesn't make sense, Unless there's major slop with how the harmonic balance fits onto the crankshaft, what you reported doesn't add up. Sometimes the slot in the harmonic balancer that slides over the woodruff key gets wallowed out so there's side to side play which would explain why it's not lining up with the "0" timing mark. If the harmonic balance woodruff key slot isn't wallowed out, I don't understand what could have happened, but it's not correct.
Have you heard of putting the Cams to the T mark bc it puts cams in a position that it move after belt removed? I’ve heard of this. There’s tons of debate about this 2nd way of doing it. Basically you put everything ATDC and nothing moves on you. What way is best?
Yes, we've heard of it. We talked about it in the video, so I'm assuming you didn't watch the video. The "T" position works. It has been confirmed by many of our viewers.
@@TimmyTheToolman I used the “T” position on my 2008 4Runner V8 and it did not work. The rh cam jumped about 2 teeth, the LH cam jumped about 6 or 7 teeth. I’m going to button it up tomorrow and will be worrying until I start it tomorrow.
@@joer1056 You're the first person since this video went live that said the T position didn't work. Don't worry, your engine is fine. The cams jumping with the engine not running isn't going to do any harm.
Hello, at 10:55 you mentioned the bolt tensioner need to have tread lock... Does this apply to the idler tensioner? I recently did a TB replacement and now have oil leak around the oil pump. I pulled the covers off hoping it's the cam seal but not the case. The oil pump is covered with oil. Water pump housing and timming gear area is dry. I only change the tensioner pulley so I didn't take off the bolt. I went back and look at the before pix and the oil pump was dry.
The bolt for the idler that the tensioner applies pressure to is the only bolt the manual suggested putting thread sealant on.
Hey guys do you know what size bolts are used for the crankshaft holding tool? I bought the one you suggested but it came with M8x1.25 bolts which is too big in diameter. I’m doing a timing belt on a 2008 tundra 4.7
M8 x 1.25 is the right size and thread pitch of the holes in the crankshaft pulley.
Getting code P0335 after doing this job, and truck will not start. If wiring is the issue, any guides out there on how to repair it? Timing, crank shaft sensor plate positioning seem OK
If crankshaft position sensor is properly connected and the crankshaft position sensor plate doesn't have any missing teeth, I don't know what else you could check.
Just wrapped up bolting everything back together last night, still need to burp the system. Super informative. Got a question tho, I was not thinking at one point prior to removing old belt and cam pulley (even the #1 timing cover) rotated the pulley counterclockwise to align pulley with the 0 mark, did I hurt myself? Maybe 3/4’s of a turn. And all timing lines up after full 2 turns clockwise.
Cheers mate!
You're fine. I highly doubt any damage occurred. You would have felt significant resistance in order to do damage.
Hi, where are can find the bolts of the thermostat housing.
Nice video.
You're local Toyota or Lexus dealer. Or, you could simply go to a hardware store and buy some bolts. I don't know for sure what size and thread pitch those bolts are but I bet they are an M8 bolt with a 1.25 thread pitch. By looking at the video, you can take an educated guess on the length. But, your local dealer could get those bolts for you and probably wouldn't charge you that much.
Both videos are great. Get your degree in teaching. Oh, the jiggle valve is an air bleed device so the thermostat bulb can be bathed in coolant upon filling. I learned quickly to drill a hole through the thermostat and orient the hole at the 12:00 position on Ford's Windsor motors.
Thanks for the compliment and the information you shared.
Do you have to turn the crank 2 revolutions if you already have timing marks lined up perfectly?
It's nice to double check. I would just for peace of mind.
@@TimmyTheToolman (04 sequoia) okay i did turn it and after turning it 2 revolutions, the camshaft timing marks arent lined up anymore. should i take the belt off and put it bak at TDC ? thank you for responding.
@joshuawilliams7958 Don't worry about the lines on the belt. Those are just there to help you get the belt on correctly. You're just looking to see that the cam pulleys timing notches line up with their respective timing marks, and the crankshaft timing gear lines up with its mark. The lines on the belt won't line back up for many revolutions of the engine. How many it takes, I don't know, but it's not important. Make sense?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes that makes a lot of sense ! This is my first time doing this and it’s on my truck so trying to be extra careful
@joshuawilliams7958 Yeah, a lot of people get thrown off when they rotate the engine and the belt lines no longer match up. It's common. Good luck putting everything back together. You're doing it right taking your time and being careful. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, thank you for these videos. I have a question. So I am at the point of putting the timing belt back on. Following your instructions, you say the arrow points to the front of the vehicle. If I do that, the left and right marks on the belt are then reversed, as in the left cam timing mark is on the right, and the right timing mark is then on the left. So I am wondering if they have changed the markings on the belt. So my question is, should I put the left mark to the left gear with the arrow facing rearward, or continue on as you suggest? I am using the same kit displayed in this video, by Aisin. Thank you for your time! Again thank you for these videos as I don’t believe I would have been able to do this myself with out them, nor have the courage to attempt it.
Just to be sure you're on the same page, the right camshaft is on the passenger side of the engine and the left camshaft is on the driver side. Its right and left as if you were sitting in the driver's seat. Is that the way you're looking at it?
@@TimmyTheToolman that’s where I am going wrong. Thank you!
@@magnusjohnson9647 You're welcome.
Hello. Great video. When removing my old timing belt, the cams shifted. Right cam shifted left and left cam shifted right. Q: Do I just simply turn each cam back to TDC marks?
Yes, but I would turn them to the "T" position because many people have reported the cams don't jump in that position. When it comes time to put the new belt on, then turn the cams to TDC.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you so much. Have a blessed evening.
@@eddavalos4936 You're very welcome Ed. You have a nice night as well.
Esto si es calidad de mecanico y mucha tranquilida para un cliente todo a torque como dice el fabricante 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Gracias Roberto.
What would it have hurt to clean the covers and parts? Not much time.
More time than we had George. Filming pretty much doubles the time it takes to do a job. Try it some time and then you'll know our pain. But yeah, in a perfect world, we would have made the parts all look very pretty.
Hey Timmy do you have any video or information about replacing the vvti oil filters for vvti equipped 4.7 2UZfe engines
Do you mean just doing an engine oil and filter change on a 2UZ-FE engine?
i meant the Vvti oil control filters part number 1567846020. If these filter get clogged results in poor acceleration and gas mileage. There are 2 on 2UZfe.
@@andyg5004 We don't have a video for that. Where are they located on the engine? I'm not super versed on the 2UZ-FE engine. My first experience with this engine was doing the timing belt job.
great video, very well explained. 🍻
Thanks. We're glad you like it.
The timing Gods of the 2 UZ Gods lol.
Somebody gets my sense of humor.
Hey Tim! quick question, the Crank bolt is TTY, and i am replacing it. I have non VVTi engine, are the gam gear bolts TTY as well? I cant find this answer anywhere.
Also, i read somewhere that it is ok to use FIPG for the 10mm timing tensioner, but you said Toyota recommends thread lock. the FSM i read doesn't even mention the tensioner. what's your thoughts
The cam bolts aren't torque to yield. You can reuse them. As for the 10mm hex bolt for the tensioner pulley, I think FIPG would be fine. You just want some type of sealant on the threads because that bolt hole is a through bolt into the oil pump. Engine oil could leak through the threads.
Unfortunately my 2005 Sequoia timing belt broke when the water pump locked up. New belt is in place but no compression on 7 cylinders. Do you know if there is any history of piston or rod damage from piston hitting valves. I'm wondering if valve repair is all that is needed or if pistons/rods may be damaged.
I don't think the rods or pistons would get damaged but valves could certainly get bent. I would say pulling the heads would be in order if you're going to try to repair it yourself.
so if one of my cranks moved and i align it back up im good right?
I think you meant to say cam, and yes, you're good.
@@TimmyTheToolman i keep getting different takes on it. at this point i’ve watched 5 different videos now im confused and stuck
@@kenwall4526 Ken, the 2UZ-FE is an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks while the engine is running, the pistons can run into the valves and bend them. With the engine not running, the jumping of the cams when you disconnected the belt isn't a huge deal. Even if a valve did contact the piston head, there's not enough force from the valve spring tension to do any damage. You just don't want to start turning the cams a bunch independent of the crankshaft. If you simply move the cam the short distance back to TDC from where it jumped, you're going to be ok. Trust me. It happened to us and the engine was fine.
Impressive detailed work and description. Thank you.
Thanks for the compliment. You're very welcome.
Thank you for the very detailed video, please do the beast starter for this car.
You're very welcome John. We are planning on making a video for the starter replacement.
Hey Timmy I have a 2005 Lexus GX470 I was on the highway about 65 miles per hour and in the engine light start flashing I pull over engine still running not very good then it stopped would not start back up. Had it towed home. Read the codes said it was a misfire. Found out the tensioner for the time belt came lose and was digging into the belt. Is there a good chance Debt some of the valves may have been damaged because of this
There is a chance since it's an interference engine. Just do the timing belt job and cross your fingers you got lucky. I have heard of people breaking a timing belt with this engine and they've been ok. Let me know the result once after you complete the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank very much and yes you’re video and chatting is the best one
@@vonmapp Thanks for the compliment. Please comment back and give us an update. I hope your engine is OK.
WELL???
Great videos!!!! Over this last weekend I did the water pump, timing belt and other parts on my 2005 Tundra since it was apart. I used the T marks and the cams stayed in place after removing the belt. After getting everything reinstalled. I went to start it up and nothing!!!! Gotta say my heart sank.....I forgot to reconnect up the battery.....What a Dumb Ass!! But after reconnecting the battery, the truck fired right up and is running great !!!! Also liked your jokes!!!! Thanks!
Thanks Anne. Great to hear our videos helped you get the job done. Thanks for confirming the T marks for the cams worked for you. Also thanks for appreciating my humor. Not many mention it but we try to break up the monotony of these videos with a little humor. You're very welcome Anne. Happy Wrenching!
I've got a code for camshaft position sensor bank1 and bank2. I turn the key and it just makes a loud click once but won't turn over. Where is the 2nd sensor?
Not sure Nick. This was my one and only time diving into one of these engines. I'm sure with a little more research online you'll figure it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I've been at it for 3 days now and everyone has a different answer. I thought I knew everything about my rig but I'm getting schooled now. I waited until the end to ask you. I only asked because others have called that the crankshaft sensor. There's so many that I'm beside myself. I almost miss the days where you could crawl inside your hood compartment and get at everything with ease.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your time, I appreciate it.
@@nickschuldt9229 In Part 1, start watching at play time 26 minutes and 30 seconds. The connector we disconnect on the camshaft cover is the cam position sensor. ruclips.net/video/zRPhl1xcYYw/видео.html I understand your confusion. I believe there is just one sensor. There isn't a sensor taking a reading from the passenger side camshaft. I'd replace the one on the driver side and I think your problem will be solved.
Does your manual for this vehicle show not to re-use the crank bolt? My repair manuals with 1MZ-FE engines do not show a "diamond shape" icon for non-reusable on the crank bolts. I'm going to be doing the belt job on my 99 ES300 soon and had no intention of buying a new crank bolt because of the manual.
We just took this from our experience with the 5VZ-FE V6 engine. The Toyota FSM suggests replacing the crank bolt on those engines so we sort of assumed this was a suggestion for all Toyota engines due to the very high torque value the bolts are torqued to.
I did a timing belt job on my 98 ES not so long ago. I reused the crank bolt. It doesn't say not to reuse it in the manual.
I am doing this job as I type and @ 19:27 that timing belt cover spacer #11348AC010 is missing on my motor. When looking at the old belt and counting the teeth from L cam to R cam it is 73 teeth apart on the old belt and it does not have any printed lines on it so then counting the new belt it is 71 teeth apart from mark to mark with that being said the old belt was two teeth off. The old belt was also off one tooth at the crankshaft. So I am a little nervous now after installing the new belt at the proper marks. Do you think the engine could run proper being that it was off a couple of teeth? I am just hoping the motor will run proper now that I have made this change with the new belt. I did rotate the motor a few times after installing the new belt until it returned to where all the marks lined UP again and everything seems fine. There were no problems rotating the motor. The guy at the dealer said that if you don't replace that belt cover spacer that mice can get UP in your motor and when you go to start the engine they can get caught in the belt and make the belt jump a tooth or two. I believe that is what happened with my motor because there was a nest in behind the lower crank cover. I am saying a prayer to the one and only GOD that this all works out because I am not going to want to have to pull everything apart again! What is your opinion on this matter being that you work on these motors more than I do?
Engines can run decent with the timing a little off. A couple teeth off does seem like quite a bit. Without a doubt, you want to get the timing right and not set the timing where it was before, a couple teeth off. Get all 3 timing marks lined up like we show in the video and you'll be good. Double check your work by doing 2 full revolutions of the crankshaft to confirm all 3 marks still line up before putting the engine back together. Let me know how it all turns out when you're all done. Don't stress Mike, you're doing great.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! I really enjoy working on my own vehicles but was surprised at the belt not matching UP! Got the new belt lined UP as per TDC and belt marks. Love your videos brother. Thank you for your help I am learning every time I watch you make mistakes! Hahaha.
@@mikekmalick Good to hear you got the belt on. Yep, I make plenty of mistakes. What most people don't know is most of the jobs we film it's us doing the job for the very first time. This was my first time doing a timing belt job on this engine. So, we are learning and teaching at the same time. Enjoy the rest of the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Finished my timing belt, water pump, thermostat power steering high pressure line job and everything worked out perfect!v I am very happy with job and I believe truck is running better than ever.
@@mikekmalick Great to hear Mike. Good job getting it done.