I used cement board to line and space out my tool box. It got pretty heavy but well worth it after watching one catch on fire. I did set up a concrete bunker for home charging which really gives me more confidence in the charging. Thanks for the live demo.
Alex, while this video has a little age on it, I am glad I came across it. I am always safe, and I always monitor my batteries during balance (I only balance) charging, but I can't babysit them 24/7, and while EXTREMELY rare, a battery sitting can just decide to go up. I have seen an increase lately in cells burning peoples garages, houses, etc (they are mostly user error, and proven as such, but still) and with those reports, user error or not, it makes me nervous as I keep all my batteries in the house. I have over 40 sitting on a shelf right now (I use TPU caps to cover the plugs, and have them arranged as to not even really touch each other). It just makes me nervous when I think about it, and this solution is perfect and even better than my ammo cans I use / have built. I have several metal toolboxes, big ones, that will be perfect. Thanks for the idea man!
Understand that the real danger is the proximity of flammable materials to your batteries. I charge mine on a metal wire shelf above a concrete floor. The more levels of safety you have, the better!
I work in the building trade in the u.k. , there are modern substitutes for asbestos sheet , specifically used to stop fire spread inside buildings, the main one is called "supalux ", they also manufacture intumescent mastic which can be used to seal between the boards
I tried this with a .50 Cal ammo box. It is difficult to get the drywall to fit tight without any of it coming apart (crushing). The ammo can's corners have to round the edges for the bottom piece to fit, but the pieces for the width don't want to fit tight all the way because the ammo can isn't square enough for that. Making the individual compartments is almost impossible unless you use a table saw of some kind to get things square enough to begin with. Multiple compartments, for multiple batteries. The pressure from just one lipo fire on a medium to large battery is immense! I've seen a few 4s 3200mah (in an rc plane), and 6s 3850 (in a bag) lipos go into overload and catch fire! The sealant I used was from ACE Hardware. Rutland 500 deg RTV silicone sealant for repairing grills, cookers, gas stoves, furnaces, etc. Good luck to anyone who builds their box.
For smaller batteries, I'm thinking of small fire-safe bags inside of an ammo box. Difficult to trust the fire-safe bags alone because some burn through, so the ammo box contains the small failure. I'll add a piece of drywall on the bottom because that's the only surface to possibly contact a wooden table.
Thanks for the information, very practical and of great value. I have numerous work batteries, and disability scooter batteries much larger than the ones you have. I have been concerned how I can safely charge and transport them without constantly having to worry about them. Now I can review a way to do it safely. All the best.
0:45 Basic 1/2" drywall is only has a 30 (or 60?) minute rating. Need Type X or Type C for longer ratings. They are tested up to 800C at 30 min and 1000 C at 2 hours. A lithium battery fire erupts at 500C and "Measured flame temperatures as high as 1069 °C for single cells [8] and 1500 °C for a battery module". So, the battery burns hotter but a much shorter duration, Source 1: Most Type X drywall has a one-hour fire rating. The fire rating for the 1/2-inch drywall used throughout the rest of the home is 30 minutes. Source 2: Regular Drywall The most commonly used type of drywall in home construction is regular drywall made of gypsum plaster. This variety serves as a base for interior paint application and comes in various thicknesses including five-eighths-inch, half-inch, three-eighths-inch, and quarter-inch panels. Half-inch panels, also called lightweight drywall, are the most common because they are easier to transport and handle. These are able to resist burning for up to one hour. Type X Drywall Type X is one of two types of fire-rated drywall specifically manufactured with special additives to provide superior mold, mildew, and fire protection. Type X drywall is usually made from thin sheets five-eighths of an inch thick that resist burning for up to two hours when applied in a single layer to both sides of standard wood framing in a house. Type C Drywall Type C drywall is also fire-rated and provides superior fire resistance compared to Type X. Depending on the project, Type C will resist burning for up to four hours. It also features a smooth surface that is very easy to paint.
Great idea... i have just got an ebike and was planning on putting the battery in one of those liposafe bags and that inside an ammo tin... I'll be adding drywall to it now as a third layer!
at 8:06 "There's a fine line between crazy and stupid." Crazy is lighting this thing on fire on a visibly wobbly platform on a 2x6 railing where it could fall either direction. OK, not "crazy", but you probably could have done a bit better than that. This whole cool project is about smart precautions. The fire extinguisher is good, but lighting a fire on a wobbly railing just seems out of place on an "avoid risk" video. Nice project, though. Good stuff.
The concept of the fire box is timely and good. What is not needed is mixing yellow carpenters glue or PVA glue with urethane glue. Urethane glue all by itself is fine for it's job. You can also use the urethane glue on slightly moistened gyprock edges instead of plastic tape.
The glue is the weakest link and certainly could be better. However, if you keep your joints reasonably tight, that isn't much of a concern. Flame must be able to wrap around the holes with sufficient energy to light the next chamber and the urethane seems to prevent this reasonably well so long as the gap it is filling isn't excessive.
I never put drywall on the top of the box nor did I put any vents in it. A steel toolbox doesn't seal very well which allows the gasses to vent out. Admittedly, I have no idea where I got the toolbox from...
The only flaw with your test is you should replicate a failure with a lipo battery inside of the box you built and the top down that way you get a fairly exact test otherwise the fire with the gasoline would not be nearly as hot as it would with a lipo failure. I like your test but as a retired Paramedic/ Firefighter I have seen a lot of fires and the best way to discover how a fire from a failure would be is to replicate the same type of failure. I would like to see how the glue would react under a high heat fire and would it actually keep the flames from working their way in the cracks. I do think your box is probably the right path but would love to see an exact failure. Good luck.
I'd be nervous of the polyurethane /PVA glue's integrity under real fire conditions, the test shown is fully vented, therefore the temperature developed in the test would be a lot lower than experienced in a real fire with the box closed. This also doesn't take account of overpressure likely to be produced in an enclosed lipo fire. Sheetrock is an excellent choice overall for the insulating material, but I'd be inclined to go with some form of mechanical fixing- e.g. screws, with sheetrock mud or jointing compound at joins to provide better fire resistance. Background to comments- fire safety engineer and fire service officer.
mrtynan - I held a torch to it (MAPP gas). It held for a full 4 minutes before the flames finally ate through it. Indeed the glue is the weak link. It is more of a gasket than anything.
Dredging this up because I'm looking at a similar project, but for a considerably larger ebike battery (624Wh 13S4P 18650 cell pack). Wanted to see if you thought these ideas were worth considering: Using 5/8" Type X drywall for better fire rating. Considering double thickness because of the size of the battery. Skipping the glue and going through-bolted with stainless hardware. The box will be a single cavity to accommodate the large ebike battery. 2x 1" dia vent holes. The idea is to provide vents that will flow a decent volume of hot gas that is directed away from the surroundings (straight up, but not at the handle). The holes should also be large enough that I could discharge a fire extinguisher into the hole without opening the box. Evacuation cart. Planning to build a small 2x caster wheel 2x static wheel cart so that it can be wheeled out of my garage in the event that the pack goes off. I'd use a steel rod to hook and pull the cart, so no contact required with the box.
Great video! Made one myself using an ammo box and the glue you recommended. Instead of dry wall I used "fibre cast". It is like dry wall but more rigid and has even better fire protection properties. I don't know how to exactly translate that stuff to english but if you check for fermacell you will find the product.
I dont think you thought this through; what you made is probably fire resistant, but when a lipo burns, fire is one problem, but it also produces a ton of expanding gasses very quickly. Call it an explosion if you want. This air pressure has been shown to be able to blow the lids even of well ventilated ammoboxes. In your design, that pressure has no where to go. The lid will be blown off and the room littered with tiny smoldering fragments of the lipo . Its surprisingly difficult to make a lipo container that is truly safe. I hate to say, as much as I respect your antenna work, your lipo container is no good. Give it a try, dont set fire to gasoline out in the open, but actually overcharge or overheat a lipo inside the box with the lid closed, and see what happens. BTW, creating heat insulating side walls will help very little. Even if your lid doesnt get blown off, the heat will spread inside the container through the top. I cant imagine the air inside not getting several 100C, which may well ignite the other lipo's.
+P44man - The size of the box helps a lot with the expanding gasses. It can take a LiPo exploding simply because there is so much airspace inside. Of course it will ruin the box, but the idea is to save your home, not the box. Anything in the same chamber is going to go up. However, the Lipos next to it should be fine. Even if they go up, the drywall on the base and sides will keep you from catching your house on fire. That's the point of this box. Save your home from fire.
+Alex Greve Alex, your box is barely bigger than an ammo box (and its fuller, if anything there is less air in there than an otherwise empty ammo box). Not that it would matter, an exploding lipo creates so much gas, you'd need a small room sized box for the pressure to become trivial. Ammo boxes have been tested and lids have been blown off regularly in those tests. Ive even seen one test with an ammo box where they added a 3" ventilation pipe to relieve the pressure, yet the lid was still blown off: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355739 That should really make you rethink your concept. Honestly, your box is probably less safe than a simple lipo bag. Those arent flammable either (at least the 'good' ones) and they are much better vented (flaps dont close that well) with a hitech over pressure safety valve called velcro. If you dont believe me, please do the test. Overcharge as large a lipo as you think your box can handle inside your box and see what happens. Be sure to stand well clear!
+P44man - I stand corrected! Holy smokes! I have seen many batteries go up in flames, but the largest I saw was a 4S 5000 that we drove a nail through. Every explosion of a LiPo I have seen was easily able to be contained in my box. I guess there are a few that it cannot hold. However, most people don't have nay fire protection and thus, this box is better than nothing at all. Even if it blows out, you still have the drywall insulating it to keep the house from burning down.
+Alex Greve Did you drive a nail through a otherwise healthy and fully charged battery? A depleted or even mostly empty lipo isnt anywhere as dangerous as a fully charged one. The worst thing that can happen is a lipo going off while or because its being overcharged, and you advertise your box for charging. An overcharged lipo going off is far worse than driving a nail through it. Here is a successful test of a ventilated ammo box with just a single small 1500mAH battery being overcharged: /watch?v=8A7An4fXARs Notice how the crate bulges, it only barely survives, despite the venting holes. Here is one without venting holes: /watch?v=OuH017ic6uo Thats a 6 Kg heavy duty container. As for the being better than nothing; for sure, but not better than a good lipo bag. When a lipo explodes, it throws around smoldering fragments. If your lid is gone, those fragments could end up all over the room. And one cell going off could remove the lid, the other cells, possibly other batteries, spread the fire throughout the room. I speak from experience, Ive had a lipo explode while being charged, throughout the room there were burnmarks from lipo remains.
Would like to see you do a test with a small tool box with sheet rock and close the box to see what happens when left alone. Can we use hardy also? Great video, I have not seen any videos on how to make a home made box. I am going to make a battery box because I have been a little worried about them.
Paper burns at 218 degrees celsius. LiPo burns at 650 and throws a jet of fire out of it. So with some heavy LiPo's even using a barbecue grill will not be a good idea because it could melt at that temperature. Multi layered surfaces of different materials are needed so those will take strikes of heat one by one
Drywall is treated paper. It is fireproof which is why we use it in so many applications. Technically speaking 5/8" is used for fire protection (since it is rated for 5 hours of burn), but 1/2" can easily take a LiPo fire. Just hold a torch to it for a few minutes and you will understand.
Love the idea! It seems to me it should be tested with a Lipos though. I imagine the fire intensity is a completely different level! Those fire bags do okay with a little battery in them,. but not at all with anything bigger.
Look what I found! ruclips.net/video/s0kzuEpyNyQ/видео.html This also isn't a fully true test, because the was a vest hole in the one port they lit on fire, but it's promising!!!
Why didn't you make a wall to wall cover of 1/2 drywall to sit loosely (not airtight) atop the batteries inside the box in order to keep any excess heat from attacking the lid to the box?
+Sam Goldstein - Heat rises and needs a bit of an air gap or it will drive hot air into the other chambers. There needs to be a bit of an air gap to keep from getting the other chambers hot enough to ignite.
very good advice alex, I often worry about my lipo's sat in the garage in a tin box. Not any more. I will be building my lipo safe box very soon. many htanks.
+Francesco Parrinello Drywalls are common in EU. Look for Knauf drywall. Just go into hardware store and ask for Knauf stuff and you should found it. Knauf is probably the best known company in EU for drywalls and at least in my country, we don't say "use drywall" but "use Knauf" as Knauf is known for drywalls. :)
Not really. A battery box needs to be able to vent as a LiPo that burns releases not only heat, but pressure. Thus, placing a lid on each cell would likely transfer the heat the the adjacent compartments possibly resulting in even more fire and smoke. I do keep the tool tray above it and use the for charger storage. There is a 2" gap between the base of the tray and the top of each compartment.
8:46 Unfortunately, only the gasoline vapor ignites, so you can see on the back wall that there's no heat on the drywall until at perhaps 1/4" above the tissue paper wick. Given that a simple metal box is may avert disaster, one insulated with drywall should do well. (Oh, and I wouldn't advise to a fire test balances on a balcony railing. 😁)
Alex, I was so impressed with your battery box video that I went to Home Depot, purchased a toolbox and 3/4" drywall and built my own box. I intend to use my storage box for storage and transport only, not for charging. I am very interested in what type of fireproof enclosure you actually charge your LiPo batteries. Thanks, Sam
Your not crazy! Your applying your knowledge and testing a practical idea, then sharing with us! This deserves constructive criticism to improve upon for all our safety. And so for that I thank you ! Storing my LIPo has caused me some concern even before my order arrives Arrrggh !
ProjectAirRC -Awesome! I thnk people should be more careful with these batteries. I would hate to hear about someone losing their home due to a Lipo fire.
Hey Alex great video I was just wondering do you have another piece of drywall that you put over the top or would that not really matter since you would not be able to glue that piece in ? ... Thanks for the awesome video very informative and helpful !!!
May I recommend a vent tube? The reason for the hood is because lithium batteries build up a lot of pressure and hot gas. You cannot seal the box or it will explode. Thus, you need to vent it or it will vent in the area of lowest resistance. The issue here is flame coming out of the box. Using a 4" dryer tube should contain the flame until it burns out and will extend so that the exhaust has no flame coming out.
@@CAGreve1231 Thanks for your reply if you havent guessed the batteries are going in the trunk and we planned on putting fans on the top to help cool the batteries. Heres a link to the batteries and the measurements are on that page as well. store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ces-custom-electric-service-40ah-lto-battery-cased-lithium-10-spot-terminals-actively-balanced/
You aren't really going to avoid that. If you seal the box to keep in the smoke you will create a bomb. It has to vent. Your best bet is to air out the house as soon as possible.
LiPo's can burn up to 3600 degrees F. Paper and gasoline can burn up to 1500 degrees F. House fires can reach 1100 degrees F. Type C drywall is rated at 2hrs. It is hard to tell if that rating is for air temps that can reach 600 degrees F or the fire itself that burns at 1100 degrees F. Either way, your test fire is nowhere near the temp of a LiPo. Please test an old LiPo.
We have a glue called Construction glue and its ready mixed, foams and expands, and sets in about 20 minutes depending on outside temp. Is also very strong Nice idea with dry wall, but I would like too see how many off those sections are still up when a 5000mah lipo explodes. Also a burning lipo will cause so much heat in the box that the other lipo's will also ignite, I wiil just stick with my simple ammo box without its rubber seal
NO! Remove the seal! The seal will cause pressure to build up and explode. That's the reason for the toolbox. The Drywall can easily take an explosion with the top open. However an ammo can sealed up is a bomb.
This is great and exactly what I was looking for! I will be making one this weekend. You potentially saved my family and my house by making this video! You are a good man sir.
Let's hope it never comes down to that and your batteries never combust. This box contains flame just fine... but the smoke does a lot of damage as well. Ask me how I know...
Not sure why you used a flammable glue as apposed to drywall mud, a product specifically used to seal these joints as its non-flammable. Dab o glue on the back to hold it to the metal box. Might need a few strategic dabs on any dividers also but I'd try to minimize them. Fill joints with mud just smoothing with finger should be fine(probably skip the normal tape). Also I know its overkill but I'd use 5/8ths rock as its just as commonly available still plenty cheap and that much extra insurance. Great idea vs them spendy lipo bags and boxes otherwise. Really the metal box is only needed for structure so just about any container will get the job done. Really just never charge them sucker unattended, keep a good extinguisher nearby and this will give you plenty of time to snuff out any fire before it's a problem.
Drywall mud would certainly work, but urethane glue seals better and isn't flammable. I am not a professional drywall guy, so I went with simple and effective.
@@CAGreve1231 ye, but its one chunky boi, it weight 15lbs. But its going on a fat bike so it doesn't bother me. Measure about 14*15*20cm, made of 140 samsung 30Q.
1/2 inch drywall does not have a 3hr rating 20 min if lucky,you need 5/8 fire rated two sides for min 45min.-to 1 hr rating,also as stated you glue does not help with spread of flame need fire rated caulk. need to read up on your building material facts. nice build though
fire proof safety law say 2 pcs 1/2" cyproc drywall sheet have good. all garage need cover today 2pcs 1/2 " cyproc sheet then have fireproof garage and inspector accep, if have onlu one sheet not accept.
I need to make 1 of those cause I have some lipos battery in my apt and I dont want to get a fire when the apt its alone when I I working thanks for this video.
Try fireboard rather than ordinary gypsum/drywall. Or line the box with Nomex, Proban or similar FR woven materials. And instead of glue, try using high-strength tapes with high continuous ratings. In order of effectiveness... Aluminized PET film coated fiberglass ~450°F continuous Fiberglass woven ~1200°F continuous Vermiculite coated ~1500°F continuous Or for the extreme bad-ass... High-Temperature Silica tape 1800-2300°F continuous (melts at ~3000°F)
It's not just that it's heavier. It's typically fiber and additive reinforced, and some use superior materials to gypsum (e.g. calcium silicate). Typical 1/2" drywall has an R-value of ~0.5. I've seen fireboard with R-values of ~30 up to as much as R-180. Huge difference. Now, in your case you've taken a relatively inert material, gypsum (of course this depends on precisely which type of drywall you've selected): www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/sds/usg-sheetrock-gypsum-panels-sds-en-54000000001.pdf And you've slathered its edges in a polyisocyanate prepolymer-based adhesive that, when burnt, can produce dense smoke, carbon oxides (CO, CO2) and nitrogen compounds....none of which you want to breathe. From the company's SDS, "Exothermic reaction with amines and alcohols; reacts with water forming heat, CO2, and insoluble polyurea. The combined effect of CO2 and heat can produce enough pressure to rupture a closed container." www.gorillatough.com/sites/default/files/Gorilla%20Glue%20-%20North%20America%20SDS_0.pdf I can appreciate your intent, but the materials I've mentioned are available to everyone. Not from your local Home Depot, but available nonetheless. And while they're not as inexpensive as basic drywall and a bottle of glue, they're safer with vastly superior performance. Down the road you might want to test some of these other materials for the sake of comparison.
Really like the box. Truly a good thing to have. I'd have to agree with "mrtynan" about using drywall screws and joint compound. Can you video the test with the box shut? What was the total cost for this project? Thanks, Keep up with the great show.
Rather than using the glue you can use a fire rated sealant. www.bostik.com.au/construction-trade-products-catalogue-sheet-28682-bostik_firecaulk-m-0-g-0.html
Alex Greve If you really want to make it neat use some casing bead instead of the tape on the edges. Yep I do this stuff for a living :) www.plasterproducts.com.au/products/casing-beads-0
So I have a critique, but please take this like a friend saying hey..... "so I noticed you set your fire test on the rail... you are aware that if you had to use the fire extinguisher it could have pushed the fire off the rail onto what ever was below the deck, right?" bruh you're funny rotflol!
this is not an awesome suggestion as the bag catches on fire as well, there is a good video where they test this "awesome suggestion" and it partially fails in every scenario. You are on to a good idea here if you would use a metal box, actual fire board and only charge batteries that can not over-pressure the box and cause it to explode.
***** It depends on where you are. Our government still allows mining and export of asbestos. Someone is using it, but not us-it is illegal here. Apparently that means the government is bound to have it dug up and shipped out as fast as possible for bottom dollar. We even have a town named after the stuff.
pillsnotbills - Hmm. I can't recommend asbestos because of the reputation it has here. But that doesn't mean I cannot use it in my own stuff. Just need to paint it to control the fibers.
Braiden Why do state this build won't contain a lipo battery fire. I agree the test is not 100% comparable because it was done with an open environment not a closed environment - which is likely the scenario for a fire. Except for the need of a couple of vent holes the overall design is solid and well thought out.
For some it will work it just isn't the most reliable method. Only surefire way is a concrete bunker with a sand drop. Wish we could upload photos and id share what mine looks like. You have to take into consideration lipos are mostly made in China where there isnt any regulation over them and they do at times spontaneously combust. Ive seen them blow ammo cans to pieces even with 3" vented holes. Ive also seen them fly a couple feet when they explode. They don't always just poof smoke and then flame. Just something to consider that this to me is fine for transporting but not home storage. Id still want ziplocs filled with sand on top of each battery as a backup measure and that starts to add a bit of weight transporting. Id rather see this than a guy leave them on his night stand or in a plane ammo box not lines where connectors could short or essentially the case could explode. A larger box like this can absorb better but the steel construct is also weaker than that of an ammo box. A hand grenade box would be more ideal for a situation like this in my opinion. Either way i think it is a useful suggestion. So please dont think i thought it is a failure by any means.
kinda disappointed you didn't show a lipo fire in the box you're advertising as "safe", just a proof of concept test. Lipo batteries don't burn like a soggy tissue....
incorrect and can lead to a dangerous situation. standard plasterboard (drywall) only provides 30 min fire protection and your test involves a fire that is much cooler and less intent than a LiB fire. LiB can reach 1000c
Your test doesn't impress. Gasoline burns at roughly 825C. LiPO batteries can cause temperatures of 2000C. Also, you don't need a flame to transfer heat. The flame is kinda irrelevant if the insulation is poor. A material surviving a fire is only relevant if you know what temperature it wouldn't survive. Finally, LiPO batteries can explode making all this moot.
Nice idea, but I have a much better one and much easier oh, why not just use an old propane-fired BBQ Pit like a Weber or charbroil obviously without the propane tank. Just stick your batteries inside drop the hood you could even charge them up running a small extension cord to the side leaving the charger on the outside of the grill. Even if the battery goes up in Flames nothing is going to happen because the barbecue pit will keep the flame inside. Give me your thoughts on that one I just came up with it off the top of my head
That would work well, but would be more difficult for transport. The idea of having the hot area off of the ground ensures less heat transfer to the surroundings.
A lipo burns with more pressure and heat, so a more representative test would be nice. Other than that: interesting idea!
A lipo also burns for much less time.
...and can explode
Yes, that was my main criticism. Nice idea in concept, but you don’t want the test to be when the box is in actual use.
I used cement board to line and space out my tool box. It got pretty heavy but well worth it after watching one catch on fire. I did set up a concrete bunker for home charging which really gives me more confidence in the charging. Thanks for the live demo.
Alex, while this video has a little age on it, I am glad I came across it. I am always safe, and I always monitor my batteries during balance (I only balance) charging, but I can't babysit them 24/7, and while EXTREMELY rare, a battery sitting can just decide to go up. I have seen an increase lately in cells burning peoples garages, houses, etc (they are mostly user error, and proven as such, but still) and with those reports, user error or not, it makes me nervous as I keep all my batteries in the house. I have over 40 sitting on a shelf right now (I use TPU caps to cover the plugs, and have them arranged as to not even really touch each other). It just makes me nervous when I think about it, and this solution is perfect and even better than my ammo cans I use / have built. I have several metal toolboxes, big ones, that will be perfect. Thanks for the idea man!
Understand that the real danger is the proximity of flammable materials to your batteries. I charge mine on a metal wire shelf above a concrete floor. The more levels of safety you have, the better!
I work in the building trade in the u.k. , there are modern substitutes for asbestos sheet , specifically used to stop fire spread inside buildings, the main one is called "supalux ", they also manufacture intumescent mastic which can be used to seal between the boards
Try www.promat.co.uk/en/products/supalux
anybody normal people not newer use asbestos anywere, ewery old houses ,school etc, take all asbest out becayse have human dangerous material.
@@mattivirta if this material is a *substitute* for asbestos, that means that it is *not* asbestos (but is designed to achieve similar objectives).
I tried this with a .50 Cal ammo box. It is difficult to get the drywall to fit tight without any of it coming apart (crushing). The ammo can's corners have to round the edges for the bottom piece to fit, but the pieces for the width don't want to fit tight all the way because the ammo can isn't square enough for that. Making the individual compartments is almost impossible unless you use a table saw of some kind to get things square enough to begin with. Multiple compartments, for multiple batteries. The pressure from just one lipo fire on a medium to large battery is immense! I've seen a few 4s 3200mah (in an rc plane), and 6s 3850 (in a bag) lipos go into overload and catch fire!
The sealant I used was from ACE Hardware. Rutland 500 deg RTV silicone sealant for repairing grills, cookers, gas stoves, furnaces, etc. Good luck to anyone who builds their box.
At least 300 people have built this box. Perhaps your ammo box is simply difficult?
I'd recommend Bat-Safe metal LiPo boxes, that also have venting holes and filtration for the smoke. I've tried everything and these are the best IMO.
For smaller batteries, I'm thinking of small fire-safe bags inside of an ammo box. Difficult to trust the fire-safe bags alone because some burn through, so the ammo box contains the small failure. I'll add a piece of drywall on the bottom because that's the only surface to possibly contact a wooden table.
Could you use hardiebacker instead of drywall?
What if you put a top inside, on top of the walls also made from the drywall?
He did that in the end of the video.
Thanks for the information, very practical and of great value. I have numerous work batteries, and disability scooter batteries much larger than the ones you have. I have been concerned how I can safely charge and transport them without constantly having to worry about them. Now I can review a way to do it safely. All the best.
This was a great informative video.
what about using fire bricks/tiles instead?
0:45 Basic 1/2" drywall is only has a 30 (or 60?) minute rating. Need Type X or Type C for longer ratings. They are tested up to 800C at 30 min and 1000 C at 2 hours. A lithium battery fire erupts at 500C and "Measured flame temperatures as high as 1069 °C for single cells [8] and 1500 °C for a battery module". So, the battery burns hotter but a much shorter duration,
Source 1:
Most Type X drywall has a one-hour fire rating. The fire rating for the 1/2-inch drywall used throughout the rest of the home is 30 minutes.
Source 2:
Regular Drywall
The most commonly used type of drywall in home construction is regular drywall made of gypsum plaster. This variety serves as a base for interior paint application and comes in various thicknesses including five-eighths-inch, half-inch, three-eighths-inch, and quarter-inch panels.
Half-inch panels, also called lightweight drywall, are the most common because they are easier to transport and handle. These are able to resist burning for up to one hour.
Type X Drywall
Type X is one of two types of fire-rated drywall specifically manufactured with special additives to provide superior mold, mildew, and fire protection. Type X drywall is usually made from thin sheets five-eighths of an inch thick that resist burning for up to two hours when applied in a single layer to both sides of standard wood framing in a house.
Type C Drywall
Type C drywall is also fire-rated and provides superior fire resistance compared to Type X. Depending on the project, Type C will resist burning for up to four hours. It also features a smooth surface that is very easy to paint.
Great idea... i have just got an ebike and was planning on putting the battery in one of those liposafe bags and that inside an ammo tin... I'll be adding drywall to it now as a third layer!
at 8:06 "There's a fine line between crazy and stupid." Crazy is lighting this thing on fire on a visibly wobbly platform on a 2x6 railing where it could fall either direction. OK, not "crazy", but you probably could have done a bit better than that. This whole cool project is about smart precautions. The fire extinguisher is good, but lighting a fire on a wobbly railing just seems out of place on an "avoid risk" video. Nice project, though. Good stuff.
The concept of the fire box is timely and good. What is not needed is mixing yellow carpenters glue or PVA glue with urethane glue. Urethane glue all by itself is fine for it's job. You can also use the urethane glue on slightly moistened gyprock edges instead of plastic tape.
The glue is the weakest link and certainly could be better. However, if you keep your joints reasonably tight, that isn't much of a concern. Flame must be able to wrap around the holes with sufficient energy to light the next chamber and the urethane seems to prevent this reasonably well so long as the gap it is filling isn't excessive.
Great video. Did you put drywall on the top of the box? What about air holes or vents to let the pressure out? What model tool box is that? Thanks?
I never put drywall on the top of the box nor did I put any vents in it. A steel toolbox doesn't seal very well which allows the gasses to vent out. Admittedly, I have no idea where I got the toolbox from...
Will this work for an Ebike lithium battery? I will give this a try, thank you..
The only flaw with your test is you should replicate a failure with a lipo battery inside of the box you built and the top down that way you get a fairly exact test otherwise the fire with the gasoline would not be nearly as hot as it would with a lipo failure. I like your test but as a retired Paramedic/ Firefighter I have seen a lot of fires and the best way to discover how a fire from a failure would be is to replicate the same type of failure. I would like to see how the glue would react under a high heat fire and would it actually keep the flames from working their way in the cracks. I do think your box is probably the right path but would love to see an exact failure. Good luck.
I agree that I could have been more accurate and used a lipo for the fire test rather than gasoline. Perhaps I will do this in another video.
I'd be nervous of the polyurethane /PVA glue's integrity under real fire conditions, the test shown is fully vented, therefore the temperature developed in the test would be a lot lower than experienced in a real fire with the box closed. This also doesn't take account of overpressure likely to be produced in an enclosed lipo fire.
Sheetrock is an excellent choice overall for the insulating material, but I'd be inclined to go with some form of mechanical fixing- e.g. screws, with sheetrock mud or jointing compound at joins to provide better fire resistance.
Background to comments- fire safety engineer and fire service officer.
mrtynan - I held a torch to it (MAPP gas). It held for a full 4 minutes before the flames finally ate through it. Indeed the glue is the weak link. It is more of a gasket than anything.
The tool box should be vented with a few holes in the top to allow for expanding gases to escape.
mrtynan
My first thought was to go to my local fire department and for ideas! I'm VERY nervous and new to lipos.
Dredging this up because I'm looking at a similar project, but for a considerably larger ebike battery (624Wh 13S4P 18650 cell pack). Wanted to see if you thought these ideas were worth considering:
Using 5/8" Type X drywall for better fire rating. Considering double thickness because of the size of the battery.
Skipping the glue and going through-bolted with stainless hardware. The box will be a single cavity to accommodate the large ebike battery.
2x 1" dia vent holes. The idea is to provide vents that will flow a decent volume of hot gas that is directed away from the surroundings (straight up, but not at the handle). The holes should also be large enough that I could discharge a fire extinguisher into the hole without opening the box.
Evacuation cart. Planning to build a small 2x caster wheel 2x static wheel cart so that it can be wheeled out of my garage in the event that the pack goes off. I'd use a steel rod to hook and pull the cart, so no contact required with the box.
Great video! Made one myself using an ammo box and the glue you recommended. Instead of dry wall I used "fibre cast". It is like dry wall but more rigid and has even better fire protection properties. I don't know how to exactly translate that stuff to english but if you check for fermacell you will find the product.
I will look into that, thanks!
I dont think you thought this through; what you made is probably fire resistant, but when a lipo burns, fire is one problem, but it also produces a ton of expanding gasses very quickly. Call it an explosion if you want. This air pressure has been shown to be able to blow the lids even of well ventilated ammoboxes. In your design, that pressure has no where to go. The lid will be blown off and the room littered with tiny smoldering fragments of the lipo .
Its surprisingly difficult to make a lipo container that is truly safe. I hate to say, as much as I respect your antenna work, your lipo container is no good. Give it a try, dont set fire to gasoline out in the open, but actually overcharge or overheat a lipo inside the box with the lid closed, and see what happens.
BTW, creating heat insulating side walls will help very little. Even if your lid doesnt get blown off, the heat will spread inside the container through the top. I cant imagine the air inside not getting several 100C, which may well ignite the other lipo's.
+P44man - The size of the box helps a lot with the expanding gasses. It can take a LiPo exploding simply because there is so much airspace inside. Of course it will ruin the box, but the idea is to save your home, not the box.
Anything in the same chamber is going to go up. However, the Lipos next to it should be fine. Even if they go up, the drywall on the base and sides will keep you from catching your house on fire. That's the point of this box. Save your home from fire.
+Alex Greve
Alex, your box is barely bigger than an ammo box (and its fuller, if anything there is less air in there than an otherwise empty ammo box). Not that it would matter, an exploding lipo creates so much gas, you'd need a small room sized box for the pressure to become trivial.
Ammo boxes have been tested and lids have been blown off regularly in those tests. Ive even seen one test with an ammo box where they added a 3" ventilation pipe to relieve the pressure, yet the lid was still blown off: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355739 That should really make you rethink your concept.
Honestly, your box is probably less safe than a simple lipo bag. Those arent flammable either (at least the 'good' ones) and they are much better vented (flaps dont close that well) with a hitech over pressure safety valve called velcro.
If you dont believe me, please do the test. Overcharge as large a lipo as you think your box can handle inside your box and see what happens. Be sure to stand well clear!
+P44man - I stand corrected! Holy smokes! I have seen many batteries go up in flames, but the largest I saw was a 4S 5000 that we drove a nail through. Every explosion of a LiPo I have seen was easily able to be contained in my box. I guess there are a few that it cannot hold. However, most people don't have nay fire protection and thus, this box is better than nothing at all. Even if it blows out, you still have the drywall insulating it to keep the house from burning down.
+Alex Greve
Did you drive a nail through a otherwise healthy and fully charged battery? A depleted or even mostly empty lipo isnt anywhere as dangerous as a fully charged one. The worst thing that can happen is a lipo going off while or because its being overcharged, and you advertise your box for charging. An overcharged lipo going off is far worse than driving a nail through it. Here is a successful test of a ventilated ammo box with just a single small 1500mAH battery being overcharged: /watch?v=8A7An4fXARs Notice how the crate bulges, it only barely survives, despite the venting holes. Here is one without venting holes: /watch?v=OuH017ic6uo Thats a 6 Kg heavy duty container.
As for the being better than nothing; for sure, but not better than a good lipo bag. When a lipo explodes, it throws around smoldering fragments. If your lid is gone, those fragments could end up all over the room. And one cell going off could remove the lid, the other cells, possibly other batteries, spread the fire throughout the room. I speak from experience, Ive had a lipo explode while being charged, throughout the room there were burnmarks from lipo remains.
Very interesting, thanks!
Incidentally, what is the name of the background music staring at 7:46?
Would a "full" drywall lid on top of your drywall installation help containment?
Possibly, but it would likely distribute heat to the other chambers resulting in more LiPos going up in flames. Probably better to have an air gap.
whats with the hot & toxic gases?
Would like to see you do a test with a small tool box with sheet rock and close the box to see what happens when left alone. Can we use hardy also? Great video, I have not seen any videos on how to make a home made box. I am going to make a battery box because I have been a little worried about them.
hi, great idea. i intend to make one of these. but i ask, is a dry wall for the lid not necesary?
Drywall is not required for the lid, no.
Paper burns at 218 degrees celsius. LiPo burns at 650 and throws a jet of fire out of it. So with some heavy LiPo's even using a barbecue grill will not be a good idea because it could melt at that temperature. Multi layered surfaces of different materials are needed so those will take strikes of heat one by one
Drywall is treated paper. It is fireproof which is why we use it in so many applications. Technically speaking 5/8" is used for fire protection (since it is rated for 5 hours of burn), but 1/2" can easily take a LiPo fire. Just hold a torch to it for a few minutes and you will understand.
Love the idea! It seems to me it should be tested with a Lipos though. I imagine the fire intensity is a completely different level! Those fire bags do okay with a little battery in them,. but not at all with anything bigger.
Look what I found! ruclips.net/video/s0kzuEpyNyQ/видео.html This also isn't a fully true test, because the was a vest hole in the one port they lit on fire, but it's promising!!!
Why didn't you make a wall to wall cover of 1/2 drywall to sit loosely (not airtight) atop the batteries inside the box in order to keep any excess heat from attacking the lid to the box?
+Sam Goldstein - Heat rises and needs a bit of an air gap or it will drive hot air into the other chambers. There needs to be a bit of an air gap to keep from getting the other chambers hot enough to ignite.
very good advice alex, I often worry about my lipo's sat in the garage in a tin box. Not any more. I will be building my lipo safe box very soon. many htanks.
+John Baker - Good to hear. My hope is that you never need it. But if one of those Lipos goes up, it could save your home.
hello information, which is drywall?
and glue that you used?
I would like to achieve something like it too!
+Francesco Parrinello Drywalls are common in EU. Look for Knauf drywall. Just go into hardware store and ask for Knauf stuff and you should found it. Knauf is probably the best known company in EU for drywalls and at least in my country, we don't say "use drywall" but "use Knauf" as Knauf is known for drywalls. :)
@@anzes5547 say too cyproc sheet, firesafe and law say all garage need cover imside 2 pcs 1/2" sheet then have fireproof 60minit what firesafelaw say.
did you do anything to the top of the compartments?
Not really. A battery box needs to be able to vent as a LiPo that burns releases not only heat, but pressure. Thus, placing a lid on each cell would likely transfer the heat the the adjacent compartments possibly resulting in even more fire and smoke. I do keep the tool tray above it and use the for charger storage. There is a 2" gap between the base of the tray and the top of each compartment.
I might suggest full-weight, type X drywall (fire resistant).
That would certainly be better
8:46 Unfortunately, only the gasoline vapor ignites, so you can see on the back wall that there's no heat on the drywall until at perhaps 1/4" above the tissue paper wick. Given that a simple metal box is may avert disaster, one insulated with drywall should do well. (Oh, and I wouldn't advise to a fire test balances on a balcony railing. 😁)
what kind of water based glue? can it be the arts and craft water glue?
Alex, I was so impressed with your battery box video that I went to Home Depot, purchased a toolbox and 3/4" drywall and built my own box. I intend to use my storage box for storage and transport only, not for charging. I am very interested in what type of fireproof enclosure you actually charge your LiPo batteries. Thanks, Sam
I charge mine on the floor of my basement in the back room. It is a concrete floor surrounded by concrete walls. No worries ;)
Your not crazy! Your applying your knowledge and testing a practical idea, then sharing with us! This deserves constructive criticism to improve upon for all our safety. And so for that I thank you !
Storing my LIPo has caused me some concern even before my order arrives Arrrggh !
Awesome idea for a portable box. I have a storage vault I made in my shop out of Cinder block slabs and cement board.
ProjectAirRC -Awesome! I thnk people should be more careful with these batteries. I would hate to hear about someone losing their home due to a Lipo fire.
I did this but tripled up the drywall for added safety. I can’t store anything larger than a 9v though. DOH.......
But seriously, great video
Hey Alex great video I was just wondering do you have another piece of drywall that you put over the top or would that not really matter since you would not be able to glue that piece in ? ... Thanks for the awesome video very informative and helpful !!!
If you would look at the very end of the video he had a piece of sheetrock on top of the inner part he had made.
Awesome! I put some wallboard dividers in my ammo box a few months ago. Glad to see this video and know I was on the right path.
Excellent video, Alex -- thanks very much. Can you give an idea of how many batteries you store in that box at a time and what sizes they are?
spleefdowny - This one holds 18 batteries. I have some 1900 and 2200 4 cells and a bunch of 2200 3 Cells that go in this box.
Excellent video and very timely. I was just considering how to update my lipo storage options. Looks like a weekend project to me!
Awesome, many thanks. I was thinking how to line a box and didn't think of Gib as we call drywall in NZ.
Would love to see a video on an adequate charging box!
Create the same build, drill holes in the side of the tool box, run JTS-XH extension wires through the holes and add grommets.
Aren’t the burning temp of Lipo fires and gas fires different?
Yes, they certainly are. LiPo fires are hotter than the gas fire shown in the video (rich mix due to lack of air) but they do not burn nearly as long.
Im going to use this info to make a dual battery box for my 40 ah ces lithium car audio batteries. Thanks a lot for making this video.
May I recommend a vent tube? The reason for the hood is because lithium batteries build up a lot of pressure and hot gas. You cannot seal the box or it will explode. Thus, you need to vent it or it will vent in the area of lowest resistance. The issue here is flame coming out of the box. Using a 4" dryer tube should contain the flame until it burns out and will extend so that the exhaust has no flame coming out.
@@CAGreve1231 Thanks for your reply if you havent guessed the batteries are going in the trunk and we planned on putting fans on the top to help cool the batteries. Heres a link to the batteries and the measurements are on that page as well. store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ces-custom-electric-service-40ah-lto-battery-cased-lithium-10-spot-terminals-actively-balanced/
What about smoke damage....?
You aren't really going to avoid that. If you seal the box to keep in the smoke you will create a bomb. It has to vent. Your best bet is to air out the house as soon as possible.
LiPo's can burn up to 3600 degrees F. Paper and gasoline can burn up to 1500 degrees F. House fires can reach 1100 degrees F. Type C drywall is rated at 2hrs. It is hard to tell if that rating is for air temps that can reach 600 degrees F or the fire itself that burns at 1100 degrees F. Either way, your test fire is nowhere near the temp of a LiPo. Please test an old LiPo.
ruclips.net/video/s0kzuEpyNyQ/видео.html
I have an e-bike battery l am currently storing my battery temporarily in an oven until l build one
If you're a professional Russian can you try this at home?
Is that a 20, 22, or 24 inch tool box?
It is a 20". I also made a 24" as well.
Video Aerial Systems What brand was the 24 in box. I can't
find anything bigger than the 20 inch.
I got a 24" from harbor Freight. I wouldn't use it, though as the latches are garbage and I need to replace them already.
Thanks!
We have a glue called Construction glue and its ready mixed, foams and expands, and sets in about 20 minutes depending on outside temp. Is also very strong Nice idea with dry wall, but I would like too see how many off those sections are still up when a 5000mah lipo explodes. Also a burning lipo will cause so much heat in the box that the other lipo's will also ignite, I wiil just stick with my simple ammo box without its rubber seal
NO! Remove the seal! The seal will cause pressure to build up and explode. That's the reason for the toolbox. The Drywall can easily take an explosion with the top open. However an ammo can sealed up is a bomb.
he says "without its rubber seal" which in all the actual testing on youtube seems to be the most reliable way to contain large batteries.
This is great and exactly what I was looking for! I will be making one this weekend. You potentially saved my family and my house by making this video! You are a good man sir.
Let's hope it never comes down to that and your batteries never combust. This box contains flame just fine... but the smoke does a lot of damage as well. Ask me how I know...
A test of the actual box with real lipo batteries would be nice.
Not sure why you used a flammable glue as apposed to drywall mud, a product specifically used to seal these joints as its non-flammable. Dab o glue on the back to hold it to the metal box. Might need a few strategic dabs on any dividers also but I'd try to minimize them. Fill joints with mud just smoothing with finger should be fine(probably skip the normal tape). Also I know its overkill but I'd use 5/8ths rock as its just as commonly available still plenty cheap and that much extra insurance. Great idea vs them spendy lipo bags and boxes otherwise. Really the metal box is only needed for structure so just about any container will get the job done. Really just never charge them sucker unattended, keep a good extinguisher nearby and this will give you plenty of time to snuff out any fire before it's a problem.
Drywall mud would certainly work, but urethane glue seals better and isn't flammable. I am not a professional drywall guy, so I went with simple and effective.
I just built a DIY 72V 21Ah battery and its exactly what i need to make to sleep well. Thank you
Electric motorcycle battery?
@@vasprofessional1094 no, ebike
@@lequack7130 - That's one heck of an EBike battery! My personal EBike is a 48V/10 Ah. You are at 4X my power density!
@@CAGreve1231 ye, but its one chunky boi, it weight 15lbs. But its going on a fat bike so it doesn't bother me. Measure about 14*15*20cm, made of 140 samsung 30Q.
@@CAGreve1231 also, what kind of range are you getting out of your battery?
Thanks for sharing this useful video with us! I will make a box just like yours to make my batterystorage safer!!
Great idea!!!Also, the green sheet rock(water and fire proof will work) even backerboard .
Direct Fly - I forgot about greenboard! Concrete backer is a bit heavy and hard to cut, but certainly would last a long time.
Sheet. Rock or dura rock . Cement board.
Sheet rock burns it is paper????
Sheetrock is gypsum board with only a skin of paper on the outside
1/2 inch drywall does not have a 3hr rating 20 min if lucky,you need 5/8 fire rated two sides for min 45min.-to 1 hr rating,also as stated you glue does not help with spread of flame need fire rated caulk. need to read up on your building material facts. nice build though
wallawallaron So the safest idea is to put it within a concerted shell, with some let of for the fumes? lipos sound like they're way dangerous now
they're only dangerous if mistreated @@TheOther9519
wallawallaron
Sounds like a man that works in the trades.
We used 5/8 to cover metal decking on commercial roofing . Not FP but FR this to meet specs.
fire proof safety law say 2 pcs 1/2" cyproc drywall sheet have good. all garage need cover today 2pcs 1/2 " cyproc sheet then have fireproof garage and inspector accep, if have onlu one sheet not accept.
Just built my lipo battery box. Thanks for the guide.
+Michael H - Excellent. Now let's hope you never need it.
Drywall is fireproof?
Yes... well.. for 3 hours it is. 5/8" drywall is fireproof for 5 hours.
@@CAGreve1231 Sad thing is I am in construction and never really knew this lol. Is there basically paper holding it together on each side though?
@@badlilstang - More or less, yes.
I need to make 1 of those cause I have some lipos battery in my apt and I dont want to get a fire when the apt its alone when I I working thanks for this video.
Excellent work Alex - I've been wanting to do something like this but wasn't sure how to go about it. Well done!
'Pretty impressive innovation...
Glad I took the time to watch.
Thanks!
Nice work Alex...
Try fireboard rather than ordinary gypsum/drywall. Or line the box with Nomex, Proban or similar FR woven materials.
And instead of glue, try using high-strength tapes with high continuous ratings. In order of effectiveness...
Aluminized PET film coated fiberglass ~450°F continuous
Fiberglass woven ~1200°F continuous
Vermiculite coated ~1500°F continuous
Or for the extreme bad-ass...
High-Temperature Silica tape 1800-2300°F continuous (melts at ~3000°F)
It's not just that it's heavier. It's typically fiber and additive reinforced, and some use superior materials to gypsum (e.g. calcium silicate). Typical 1/2" drywall has an R-value of ~0.5. I've seen fireboard with R-values of ~30 up to as much as R-180. Huge difference.
Now, in your case you've taken a relatively inert material, gypsum (of course this depends on precisely which type of drywall you've selected):
www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/sds/usg-sheetrock-gypsum-panels-sds-en-54000000001.pdf
And you've slathered its edges in a polyisocyanate prepolymer-based adhesive that, when burnt, can produce dense smoke, carbon oxides (CO, CO2) and nitrogen compounds....none of which you want to breathe. From the company's SDS, "Exothermic reaction with amines and alcohols; reacts with water forming heat, CO2, and insoluble polyurea. The combined effect of CO2 and heat can produce enough pressure to rupture a closed container."
www.gorillatough.com/sites/default/files/Gorilla%20Glue%20-%20North%20America%20SDS_0.pdf
I can appreciate your intent, but the materials I've mentioned are available to everyone. Not from your local Home Depot, but available nonetheless. And while they're not as inexpensive as basic drywall and a bottle of glue, they're safer with vastly superior performance.
Down the road you might want to test some of these other materials for the sake of comparison.
Really like the box. Truly a good thing to have. I'd have to agree with "mrtynan" about using drywall screws and joint compound.
Can you video the test with the box shut?
What was the total cost for this project?
Thanks, Keep up with the great show.
True. Point made. Kudos for this box man. Great job
1/4" drywall would be twice as light.
This is brilliant Alex, don't know how I missed it!
ATB Malc
RCTVUK
Rather than using the glue you can use a fire rated sealant.
www.bostik.com.au/construction-trade-products-catalogue-sheet-28682-bostik_firecaulk-m-0-g-0.html
***** Awesome suggestion!
Alex Greve If you really want to make it neat use some casing bead instead of the tape on the edges. Yep I do this stuff for a living :)
www.plasterproducts.com.au/products/casing-beads-0
I fared thermometer would have come in handy before grabbing that test box
Now you tell me...
So I have a critique, but please take this like a friend saying hey..... "so I noticed you set your fire test on the rail... you are aware that if you had to use the fire extinguisher it could have pushed the fire off the rail onto what ever was below the deck, right?" bruh you're funny rotflol!
Would this work to fireproof a small gun safe? If so, I will save mucho dinero :0)
It would be better with sand bags over the batteries to extinguish the fire.
On my channel I show how to make one with sand bags.
Yes, filling plastic bags full of sand is an excellent idea!
Place a plastic bag with sand on top of the compartments, if a fire starts it melts the plastic bag and the sand falls down and puts the fire out.
Awesome suggestion!
this is not an awesome suggestion as the bag catches on fire as well, there is a good video where they test this "awesome suggestion" and it partially fails in every scenario. You are on to a good idea here if you would use a metal box, actual fire board and only charge batteries that can not over-pressure the box and cause it to explode.
@@jarrodhroberson 100% Agree. Sand won't smother a fire where the lipo batteries have oygen in them to burn without outside air.
When You placed IT on the railing , i thought That the wind was Gonna blow IT down !
I use a rectangle clay flower pot for my charging box.
BRENT DUNBAR - Awesome! That's got to be the cheapest and most effective charging solution I have ever heard of!
Thank you. I try to do it Safe, but cheap is nice also. Don't tell my wife she is still looking for it.
A paper towel 😂
Now do it again with a fully charged lipo.
Very good information! Thanks for sharing!!
Very informative! Great work.
Great idea. Too bad they don't sell the asbestos board anymore because that would be even better except for the dust.
***** It depends on where you are. Our government still allows mining and export of asbestos. Someone is using it, but not us-it is illegal here. Apparently that means the government is bound to have it dug up and shipped out as fast as possible for bottom dollar. We even have a town named after the stuff.
pillsnotbills - Hmm. I can't recommend asbestos because of the reputation it has here. But that doesn't mean I cannot use it in my own stuff. Just need to paint it to control the fibers.
WTF THEY BETTER NOT SELL THAT SHIT
i am going to do the same thing just instead drwall i will use rockwool panels
... perfect idea Alex :-) Thumps up!
Great vid bro!👍👍👍👌
This wont stop a lipo fire. The test here isn't comparable.
Braiden Why do state this build won't contain a lipo battery fire. I agree the test is not 100% comparable because it was done with an open environment not a closed environment - which is likely the scenario for a fire. Except for the need of a couple of vent holes the overall design is solid and well thought out.
For some it will work it just isn't the most reliable method. Only surefire way is a concrete bunker with a sand drop. Wish we could upload photos and id share what mine looks like. You have to take into consideration lipos are mostly made in China where there isnt any regulation over them and they do at times spontaneously combust. Ive seen them blow ammo cans to pieces even with 3" vented holes. Ive also seen them fly a couple feet when they explode. They don't always just poof smoke and then flame. Just something to consider that this to me is fine for transporting but not home storage. Id still want ziplocs filled with sand on top of each battery as a backup measure and that starts to add a bit of weight transporting. Id rather see this than a guy leave them on his night stand or in a plane ammo box not lines where connectors could short or essentially the case could explode. A larger box like this can absorb better but the steel construct is also weaker than that of an ammo box. A hand grenade box would be more ideal for a situation like this in my opinion. Either way i think it is a useful suggestion. So please dont think i thought it is a failure by any means.
Braiden Palmer so essentially Lipos dangerous and one should just avoid them completely? 😱
kinda disappointed you didn't show a lipo fire in the box you're advertising as "safe", just a proof of concept test. Lipo batteries don't burn like a soggy tissue....
Nice job. Very smart choice.
incorrect and can lead to a dangerous situation. standard plasterboard (drywall) only provides 30 min fire protection and your test involves a fire that is much cooler and less intent than a LiB fire. LiB can reach 1000c
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing.
Your test doesn't impress. Gasoline burns at roughly 825C. LiPO batteries can cause temperatures of 2000C. Also, you don't need a flame to transfer heat. The flame is kinda irrelevant if the insulation is poor. A material surviving a fire is only relevant if you know what temperature it wouldn't survive. Finally, LiPO batteries can explode making all this moot.
Nice idea, but I have a much better one and much easier oh, why not just use an old propane-fired BBQ Pit like a Weber or charbroil obviously without the propane tank. Just stick your batteries inside drop the hood you could even charge them up running a small extension cord to the side leaving the charger on the outside of the grill. Even if the battery goes up in Flames nothing is going to happen because the barbecue pit will keep the flame inside. Give me your thoughts on that one I just came up with it off the top of my head
That would work well, but would be more difficult for transport. The idea of having the hot area off of the ground ensures less heat transfer to the surroundings.
@@CAGreve1231 that's a good point it might be kind of hard to transport my entire Weber barbecue pit to the nearest Flying Field! LOL point taken sir👍
Awesome awesome video, thank you so much. 👍👍👍👌
My 6s 6000mah lipo would have surely burnt my house down had I not thrown it outside to pop
OMG, Thank you so much!!!
0:49 WHAT?
great stuff !
Doesnt glue catch fire easily???? He? ;-)
Here's a link to our DYI version ruclips.net/video/a0Lgczbwf_Q/видео.html