Anode Rod replacement, Rotten Egg Smell FIX, Corro Protec, Rheem Water Heater. DIY.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- We recently changed our water heater about 2 years ago. About 2-3 months later, we noticed a bad smell coming out from the hot water faucet more so than the cold water faucet. After months of trying to figure this out, it came down to the water from the water heater.
We live in a well and not using a municipal source.
Here in this video, I try my best to go through the steps of changing out the anode rod and using a newer rod to reduce lime scale and fixing the malodorous putrid smell of the water. Though harmless to some degree, it just was not appealing at all.
I was not paid to use any product(s) in this video
Corro-protec is the product I chose that would best suit my needs to rectify this problem. If you decide to use this product, please use the right size for your water heater.
As a DIY-er, this project would have taken me about 1-2 hours, but because I did not have the appropriate tools, I needed to goto my Big BOX stores to purchase them. So after about 2 cold showers at 10 degree weather, I was finally complete.
Things you will need are
1. garden hose
2. pliers, long needle nose
3. 1 1/16 socket wrench
4. 30 mm socket wrench
5. screw drivers
6. 5 gallon bucket
7. socket wrench
8. teflon tape
9. PATIENCE
10. more PATIENCE
11. IMPACT WRENCH, not Impact driver as it would not give much force to remove the anode rod bolt.
12. flashlight
DISCAIMER:
I AM NOT A LICENCED PLUMBER / ELECTRICIAN. I PERFORM MY TASK AT MY OWN RISK AFTER DOING MUCH RESEARCH ON ANY PRODUCTS I PURCHASE. IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS, PLEASE CALL A LICENSED PROFESSIONAL FOR YOUR NEEDS. ALL VIDEOS ON THIS CHANNEL ARE FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, FEEL FREE TO DROP ME A LINE.
Thank you for stopping by and please be safe!
AJ
#corro protec
#water heater anode rod
It's great seeing a homeowner doing a DIY task instead of calling a plumber. Thanks for posting this video.
Most definately. Thanks for watching!
Hey 👋🏼 thanks for installing our product! I’m glad you like it!
Thanks for a great product!
As it had been YEARS since I partially drained my tank to remove the sediment/crud, the water was barely flowing out the bottom valve, even with proper venting. To help with the draining, I CAREFULLY turned on the tank water input valve, AFTER closing the vent, so as to provide a positive water pressure to help flush the gunk. Turning on the input water in "bursts", the drained water flow out the drain valve was greatly improved, along with the crud.... After a good flushing, I did install a powered anode. FYI - The wall wart power LED will only illuminate when there is a current flow from the anode rod - through the water - to the inside of the tank - ground. IF the LED does not illuminate, make sure to check/have a good ground connection with the wall wart's ground wire to the heater's ground....
Thank you for the information!!!!
I almost purchased one of these. After reading negative reviews on Amazon, I had to pass. Several of the new style look exactly the same as the $150 one you mentioned, and their also manufactured in Canada as well. I would assume their made by the same company and allowed to place their name on the package like other items business currently do. The only advantage of buying the $150 part, is there warranty, and some reviews had warranty issues. I think I will just flush my tank every 4 months and change my Anode every 3 years and hopefully my Gas Water Heater will get 12 to 15 years usage.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it! And thanks for watching :)
There's no substitute for regular maintenance. If your well water stinks, change the standard magnesium to an ALUMINUM anode, and check every couple years.
A good video - BUT - An IMPACT RATED **SIX POINT** socket should be used. You *WILL* be "pooping" your pants when the installed anode rod's bolt head strips with trying to use a regular 12 point socket OR the socket breaks. "This time" you got lucky using a regular 12 point socket. For me, it was well worth WAITING one day for my 1- 1/16" IMPACT SOCKET to arrive, BEFORE trying to remove the original - 15+ year old anode. Yea, my bad, but, it was finally replaced with a powered unit.... You said ""We live **IN** a well"", gotta be close quarters and wet, but, your viewers knew what you meant 🙂
Hey, I really appreciate your help, and yes, you are right as I was told that same exact thing once the video came out! With the sockets!!! Cheers! And thanks for watching! Hope you are having a great day!
Need a favor please.... Most DIY'ers have a digital voltmeter and after the install of my powered anode, I am measuring ~ 2.958 volts across the spade terminal and tank ground. The measured UN-loaded voltage is about 26 volts, I was surprised to see about a 23 volt drop after the unit was operating for a couple of days. After 15+ years, bad boy ME did not flush like is recommended and my voltage drop may be due to severe lack of flushing/maintenance. I'd appreciate anyone using a powered anode to reply with their measured voltage arcoss the spade lug to ground.... Thanks ahead of time.... Hank P.S. For my old - original - anode removal, an impact gun was MANDATORY, with 7-10 seconds of full power reverse with my SeeSii battery impact. Be careful to impact the anode just loose, then finish the removal *manually* with a 1/2" ratchet-breaker bar so not to have the old anode spin too fast and f-up the elements....
Hello! I did have a volt meter. I will check it out and give you my results!
@@AJDIYNetworkThanks alot.... 🙂
Nice!
A Powered Anode is called an ICCP devise (induced current cathodic protection). Its purpose is to supply the tank with electrons to prevent interior corrosion of the tank and nothing more. It is the removal of the aluminum/magnesium anode that stops hot water odor, not the powered anode.
If your well head has not been sanitized in years or if you keep the tanks temperature around 120 degrees, you will still have the odor. If you turn your main tanks temp to 130 degrees, the heat will kill the incoming sulfate bacteria instantly and the odor associated with it.
I have been selling ICCP systems (powered anode rod) for years and periodically, homeowners email me when they run into this problem. 130 degrees will fix it 98% of the time.
I appreciate that! That darn smell is a nuisance. Originally, the smell was gone, but now and then I have a hint of it from time to time. I will check the temperatures. Thanks for your time to write this up!
Now you just need to get some heat into that house. (ie. hot breath in a very cold environment)
Thanks for watching. Hope it helps. I was actually in my garage. Unfortunately, it’s not heated……. Yet :)
Nothing on a hot water heater is as tight as an anode rod.😅
Will the Cheaper Powered anode rods that they sell on Amazon work just as well as the More expensive "double the price" units Corro-Protec sells . I have not found a compare video on these different powered anodes
Hi and thanks for watching. That’s a great question. Unfortunately, I don’t have an answer for that. I have learned from my years of experience, you very much get what you pay for and later on end up buying the more pricier one, thus paying for more than what you would have initially spent in the beginning. I am not making any money for corro protec device. What can tell you is the one I have now has been working flawlessly from time I installed to present day. I guess time will tell :).
I would HIGHLY recommend that you DON’T activate the pressure relief valve. There is a chance that the valve will not re-seat, and then you have to replace it.
Good luck! 😉
Thanks for the info. Heater is working just fine.
Exactly.... What he said....
and risk your tank exploding? If it won't close, it (the PRV) was due for replacement anyway. Another trick is using vinegar or muriatic acid to dissolve the deposits and re-install.
Maybe you did a lot of the tougher work off camera, your rod came off so easy. I have one that is about 10 years old , and I had trouble . It eventually came off after over a week soaking with WD40 and the electric impact finally did it. I almost had to borrow an air impact to get the 200 lb ? torque needed the weaker electric cannot supply.
Hey Tony. I’m happy you were able to get it out. What you saw is what I did as it happened. The heater was only less than three years old when I removed the rod.
i had success with old anodes by striking the top with a large hammer to break the rust in the threads. Best thing is to take them out when the tank is new and apply teflon tape.
Rotten egg/Sulfur Smell is gone….
and so will your tank steel now that there's no anode. Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water.
@@thedavesofourlives1 There is an anode - titanium one...
Do u have a water softner too??? With the corro-protect, aren’t u suppose to remove it every year to inspect it?? If u have to remove it to check it, then why not just put a new anode Rod every year? Like an aluminum-zinc Rod? I’m having the same issue and trying to figure out what I should do.
Did u chlorinate ur water since it smelled before changing the Rod? Or just changing to the corro-protect was sufficient to get rid of the smell?? Thanks for any help or advice!!!!!!!
Hello, and thanks for watching. A water softener will not change the outcome of your water smelling like sulfur. You can put a new anode rod, aluminum, to your water heater, but sincerely, I have too much on my plate to remember to change the ride every so often. you can drop chlorine into your well which may help to some degree, But, regardless, you still have to run all your faucets to get the chlorine out as it is undrinkable and you may ruin your clothes if you’re doing laundry. The New Anode Rod I installed has not failed since it was placed.
Another option, is pour place hydrogen peroxide into your water heater, however, this only last about 2 to 3 months until you have to do it again.
I am more of a once and done type, and this seems to be the best option after doing diligent research.
I hope this helps and good luck.
In my earlier videos, I also installed a De-scaler that is also downstream from the water heater. This helps with the scaling process that does occur in well water.
Fortunately I have enough clearance. Oh shit
Awesome! If inhad the 80 gallon tall tank, it definately would have been a challenge. Good luck!
I am getting a smell the first time I open the water after I run the water the smell is gone.. I have city supplied water and I am considering changing the anode rod. I hope it helps..
I have a family member with the same issue as well. you may get away with just changing the anode rod rather than using the corro protec. Let me know how it turns out
Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water. That is the tried and true PROVEN solution. Most tanks come stock with a MAGNESIUM anode which doesn't play nice with sulphur rich well water.
Is the rod still working for you? I have the same problem along with rust coming out of my tank
Hello John. That smell was putrid when we first moved in. To date, the rod is working well and no foul smell with the hot water. Hope this helps. Be sure to grab the right size for your tank! Thanks for watching!
@@AJDIYNetwork Or simply use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water.
Almost a year later now. Is the egg smell still gone?
Absolutely. No smell, thank god!
Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water. That is the tried and true PROVEN solution that works with no power.
What if my hot water tank doesnt have a rod? I didnt see one on the top of my tank
Would love to see a pic of it. Most if not all tanks should have a rod to prevent the tank from braking down. What brand is it?
I have a Smart 40 Indirect Fired Water Heater. All stainless steel interior. No anode rod. No parts to rust. Best purchase I ever made.
@salatiello1956 I’d have to look into that…. But definitely something I would purchase if this one craps out.
@@AJDIYNetworkAt about 2000 bucks for the 40 gallon / 2500 for the 60 gallon, I imagine you will only be doing the "looking" 🙂
@@ainttakenanyshit or spring for a $20 aluminum anode for your steel tank like most people with sulphur water? lol