Follow up review did the CORRO-PROTEC powered anode help get rid of rotten egg smells?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2022
- I give a review of the CORRO-PROTEC powered anode, I show a unboxing video, and I discuss the next step in the fight against rotten egg smelling water.
#DIYhomefront #rotteneggsmell #badwellwater
Ben, sorry to hear our product didn't work for you.
Do you have the smell only in the hot water?
Is the smell everythere when you use hot water or only at a specific place?
Is the green light on (power supply)?
This will help me understand what's happenning and help you fix that.
I never really thought about it tell you said that. It has always been most notable in the shower, but we have an enclosed shower with a glass door. My wife always takes showers with only hot water but when I brush my teeth at the sink, I always use only cold water and you can smell rotten eggs there. It is coming out of the well with the bad smell. I do not think that you have a bad product it just did not solve my problem. BUT it did make me realize it was coming from the well. So, the problem has been narrowed down and for that I am happy.
My Brother and I both have a well. He recommended to also put 6 gallons of vinegar in the tank and let it sit for a few hours. That helped kill the bacteria in the tank. That combined with the Corro-Protec has worked for us.
Are you talking about putting 6 gallons in the pressure tank or the water heater?
@@diyhomefront1695 in the water heater.
Mine worked within minutes. The hot water stunk to high heaven with sulfur dioxide and literally minutes after installing the Corroprotec the stink was gone. And has remained so for several years now, in two different heaters. So it was the bacteria in the heater itself in my case.
I wish it would have fixed it for me too. I have been thinking about my next move in the sulfur water war. I have an idea to try but have not implemented it yet.
@@diyhomefront1695 you might need an iron/hydrogen sulfide filter.
@@brandongalbraith Thanks for the suggestion, I will have to look that up to see what it is.
One thing to remember is that this isn't ONLY for egg smell. It's main function is to act as a super anode to prevent corrosion. That way your water heater last 20+ years instead of 8, with no maintenance.
Yea, but if you have ever had a bad case of sulfur water you would rather replace the water heater every ten years if it meant getting rid of that smell.
Thank you, just replaced mines with a Powered Anode Rod
Hope it works for you. The only problem I had installing it was a bad circuit breaker.
I found your video looking for reviews on the powered anode rod...a few comments regarding your problem. First, identify the source of the problem. You should install a boiler drain (garden hose valve) in the plumbing right next to the tank to allow for draining the system, flushing the well, and collecting water samples directly from the well. Do this, then collect a water sample, while the pump is running, in a large, clean container with a lid that seals (like a 1 gallon jar). Fill the container about half full and immediately cover. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes to allow the water to degas, then put your nose to the top of the container and open the lid. If there is odor in the container, the source of the problem is in the well. If not, it is the system somewhere, which is actually good news because everything above ground is much easier to deal with.
If the odor is in the well, the common recommendation is to shock chlorinate the well. This may or may not be a long term solution. The sulfur reducing bacteria may be in the ground water , or it may have been introduced when the well was constructed. I some states, well drillers are supposed maintain a chlorine residual in their drill mud to prevent this, but many don't as it tends to reduce the effectiveness of the mud. If the bacteria were introduced during drilling, there's a good chance the problem is localized in the well and can be permanently treated. This requires scrubbing the inside of the well casing, the pump, drop pipe, and submersible cable to remove bacterial slime build-up. Alternatively, acid treating the well is even more effective, as it dissolve the slime, and there are products available specifically for this process. Once the build-up has been removed, the well and entire plumbing system can be disinfected to eliminate the remaining bacteria. It is important to calculate the water capacity of the well and plumbing system and at least double the quantity of chlorinated water so the solution fills the entire well and is pushed into the aquifer immediately surrounding the well.
You mentioned the pressure tank as a potential source of problem, and you are correct. If it's not coming from the well, this is a good place to look. By the way, while the tank will absorb water hammer from the pump starting and stopping, it's primary purpose is to provide water storage under pressure to reduce the frequency of pump cycles. Your pump should run for at least one minute each time it cycles. If it doesn't, your tank is too small and your pump is cycling excessively - starting and stopping wears out pumps much more than continuous running does. Under-sizing tanks is a good way for well contractors to reduce the price of their bids and create additional pump replacement work in the future.
If the problem is in the well and not correctable there, your filter is a good option. It does require occasional maintenance, though. Many filters have a method of introducing air, such as an air compressor or venturi system. I don't see a compressor, so there may be an internal venturi that has become plugged (bacteria will do that). Also, WellMate makes a venturi called Micronizer which works very well. And actually, a Micronizer with an air-over-water type tank (with air volume control valve) can do wonders at dealing with odor problems.
If you end up replumbing between the well and tank, add a 3-piece union to simplify tank replacement in the future.
Good luck!
I sure hope you saved that as a word document. That is some of the best information I have received about the sulfur water since i first posted it. I seem to get focused on my bad water problem about every few weeks. I try something it fails and I think on it for a while. will try some of your ideas next. Thanks
@@diyhomefront1695 Let me know if you have questions.
@@bobl5737 Will do, always nice to have somebody check your work so to speak.
Do you also smell it on the cold water supply? You may have a pile of magnesium in the bottom of the water heater. That is whats reacting to sulphur. Flush it really well and see if that helps. Maybe chlorinate the well
I put bleach in the well before I went out of town for a week. I even ran the water in the house to make sure I had bleach in all of the water lines. I do not think if it was an organism causing the sulfur smell they could have survived. I will have to try flushing out the bottom of the water tank.
Will the Cheaper Powered anode rods that they sell on Amazon work just as well as the More expensive "double the price" units Corro-Protec sells . I have not found a compare video on these different powered anodes
Sorry I do not know, and no one has commented either way on the amazon powered anode.
P.S. As I did not have an AC outlet close by, I wired a receptacle end of an extension cord - cut to ~ 8 inches - and wired the "hot" extension cord wire to one leg of the 220 heater feed wires, (twisted in the wire nut connection), and the "neutral" of the extension cord to the "neutral" of the power feed line, (circular spade terminal connected to the tank ground connection). I did measure the stubby extension cord outlet and all is good with 125 VAC. SO, with the HW tank powered on all the time, I am also feeding the wall wart transformer continuously also.... The VERY bright LED operation light does make for a good utility room nightlight 🙂
I have louvered doors on the closet that the water heater is in and the LED light glows through the louvers at night. That is a bright LED works like a night light in the room.
Just buy one i did too. Worth it if it helps worst case buy new water heater and says the anode will last 20 yrs so theres that.
I just wish it would have fixed the problem.
How could it not fill up completely with water? What would prevent it from happening?
The float in the tube if I understand what you question.
We recently replaced our anode rod in a hot water tank that's only 1 1/2 years old. It was almost completely dissolved. We were having water pressure issues, so after checking a number of things this is how we found out. We drained, flushed out and refilled the tank. We had to order an anode rod. While waiting for the rod and immediately after the tank maintenance ~ our water pressure was restored perfectly. Once the rod arrived and was installed ~ our water pressure went right back to the low pressure it was before everything above! Our plumber is baffled... and we are at our wits end. If it weren't for being well aware of the possible tank damage without having the anode rod in the tank we would seriously consider removing it permanently! Any insight? We saw your video about the electric rod and were curious... once you figured out what your issue was with the rotten egg smell (which we do not have) would you recommend an electric rod? I know initially you didn't think yours worked but in the end it was your aerator. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Already have a small fortune invested in this water system!!!
It sure can be maddening. Do you have low water pressure everywhere or at specific places like the bathroom shower but not the bathroom sink? What about the cold water? Do you have good water pressure on the cold side of your faucets and showers but not the hot side? The CORRO-PROTEC powered anode is supposed to do something with bacteria in the hot water only and nothing else so it should not help or change the water pressure. At the last job I had the building was built in 1988 and had showers in the bathrooms. The building manager swapped out some leaking faucets and ran into a big problem. Some of the sinks and shower heads would stop flowing very well. Turned out that the pipes had some corrosion in them and every time he turned the water off then back on the water pressure would knock more corrosion off and clog up the faucets and shower heads. He spent all summer one year before all the trash was out of the pipes. Most modern faucets and showers have flow regulators to limit the gallons per minute that can flow through them. They are plastic and can get clogged up really easy with the smallest of materials.
So, if it were me, I would take a piece of paper and write down how the water presser was at each faucet, shower, hot and cold and the toilets and the spickets outside. Then I would clean some screens and do the test again, compare the results and write down. It might help identify a pattern. Tell you what if you want me to make a video about this showing you how to check the flow and the water flow regulators reply back to and I can do it March 3 2023 or on Sunday March 5 2023. All I ask in return is to subscribe and get the word out to your friends.
@@diyhomefront1695 Thank you SO much for replying! Initially we had low pressure (mainly hot water) only at the bathroom shower and sink. The water pressure was restored (hot AND cold) to normal only AFTER we removed the anode rod. Once we replaced the rod the pressure (mainly hot) then became low everywhere? We have replaced all of the faucets and valves. Our entire water system is new ~ everything. Even replaced the line and electric from the well to the house. No clogging, removing the screens makes no difference. What I don't know about this stuff would fill a warehouse but I am convinced it has something to do with the hot water tank and/or anode rod. Pressure restored when anode rod was absent ~ replaced it and low pressure (especially hot) returned? After this reply if you think checking the flow & regulators would be a good idea ~ we would most definitely try it and appreciate it. Consider us Subscribed!
@@pamelabrezinsky5729 Thanks for some more information glade to know you have a well. When we got our house, we had a well put in. Other than smelly water no issues for the first ten years. Then came a master bathroom remodel and we had issues with the showers having no water pressure. I even purchased a new valve assemble and shower head which fixed the problem for a while and then low water pressure. It turned out to be trash in the lines. We have PVC pipe (the plastic stuff) and I did not do a good enough job getting all of the little pieces cleaned up as I assembled the pipe. Think of it as plastic sand. Those little pieces of PVC would gather in the screen just before the shower head. In reality it was doing it everywhere, but we take a lot of showers so that was where we noticed it first. Eventually it affected the faucets too.
Long story short over the next year I must have cleaned out those screens a half a dozen times. If that problem happened today I could easily think the problem was in the hot water heater, but really it would be trash in the water lines. Since I just only take hot showers it would be easy to think the problem must be in the hot side of the water system.
I hope it is something like that. Another problem I have heard of is the well having a problem. Normally when they dig a well, they line a portion of the walls with a pipe. I have heard of that pipe having a crack in it allowing dirt to get into the system which is then pumped into the water lines. I will make a video and try to complete it by the latest Sunday night. We our watching the grandkids tomorrow so if I cannot get it done today it will be Sunday.
@@diyhomefront1695 Absolutely no worries or hurry. I certainly hope that's not the issue ~ Thank you!
Anode rod has nothing to do with your water pressure, anode rod just collects the hardness, calcium ect in water. Low water pressure can be a result of many things, bad water pressure reducer, if you have galvanized pipe, the hot side nipple on water heater could be clogged, if it's only happening on the hot side only at every faucet then it's the water heater itself, especially if the water heater heater is only a year old and if you never had issues before it was installed then I would assume it's the water heater or something on the hot side plumbing, sometimes you have a shutboff valve on the water heater the shut off valve can go bad and not open all the way. When I install water heaters I always replace the shut off to water heater with a ball valve and I run hard copper so that there are no water restrictions, Then before I turn water back on to water heater I remove all the aerators on all faucets this way nothing clogs up the faucet, I flush each faucet out on cold side and hot side, I get all the air out of the water heater, then I install the aerators back on each faucet. But if you didn't have any of these water pressure issues before the water heater was installed then your plumber could have accidentally slide something he is not aware of.
I'm sure you know this now but to help others, you could have determined if the problem was in the water heater by simply checking to see if the sulfur smell was also in the cold water. If it was, you know the problem is in the water supply itself. That may have saved you the cost of the Corro Protect but you would probably have had to replace the anode at some point anyway so all was not ost
I think you are right about that, but I sure took a winding path to get there. I still have at least one more thing to try and one more video on the solution......... However I have thought more than one time that I had it figured out only to fail again. Please keep your eye out for that next video and keep those helpful hints coming. I like outside opinions they keep me thinking, learning, and are helpful to the (how to) world of RUclips
Don't know what i was thinking because only my COLD water stinks. Somehow the heat kills it. Obviously we don't get our colld water from the HWH. Of well, at least my old anode was almost gone so not a complete waste of time. Hint: DO use an impact gun to remove it if you replace it
Glade you got half of your smelly water problem fixed.
@@diyhomefront1695 that's not what i said, bra
I heard a comment about the wire with the screw terminal. I believe you called it the screw to attach it. It’s the ground. If you didn’t attach it to the ground screw on the water heater then there is no way it could work. If you have 24 volts between the spade connector on the rod and ground wire on the water heater, then there is no way that it couldn’t work. That is …. The smell is in your hot water only. If you also have the smell in your cold water, then the aeration unit would have to be used and you still might need the powered anode rod.
I do not disagree. To put in simple terms (it has gotten the best of me). I have quit a few videos on this problem and I always go back to the same question. I put a system in myself about ten years ago to get rid of the smell and it did. I replaced the pressure tank for the well and when I turned the pump back on we had the smell. The pressure tank is not part of the system to get rid of the bad smell and should not effect it, but I have been working on it ever since.
@@diyhomefront1695
I had a very similar problem. I put in a new pump and pressure tank and the rotten egg smell along with a brown deposit appeared in my shower. Hot water only. I put in an Ispring filter system. Carbon filter and iron manganese filter. Didn’t help. Then I replaced the magnesium anode rod with a powered rod I got from Amazon. After 2 days the problem completely disappeared. Good luck.
All right to the novice homeowner I am a little confused. When my washing machine discharges its water into the slop sink every once in awhile every other month or so I pick up the rotten egg smell. I am on City water and have copper pipes. The house is 80 years old. What are the simplest steps to eliminate the hot water heater which is 10 years old with the original anode or determining that it's cold water and it's the city system
At my house all you have to do is pour a glass of cold water and you can smell the sulfur. However if you are trying to find out if it the city water try to find where the water from the city and then the closest tap. At my house it is one of the outside water spickets by my dining room. The water line goes there before entering the houses interior living space. So if I have sulfur water at that outside water spicket it would be the cities issue. Do not now if this helps at all but good luck.
@@diyhomefront1695 hey I appreciate that. Where my water comes from the street to my water meter into my house there is a spigot and I have been here almost 45 years and I always drink from that garden hose when I'm mowing the lawn or whatever and I've never picked that smell up so that probably tells me with all the good information you've been sharing and others that it's a water heater source
Yea could be. I cannot remember where I heard this but there is a bacterium that can live in your hot water heater. If your water heater is set to low the heat does not kill it and a symptom is a sulfur smell in your water. When I last installed a water heater, I spent a few days slowly turning up the temperature until it was just a little hotter than my wife liked in the shower. My logic was to save money on the electric bill by maintaining the lowest temperature in the water heater. After finding about the bacteria I went and checked my water heater and increased the temp. It did mot fix my problem but made a big improvement. So, try that and check the cold water again from the spicket. Remove the hose, use a tall glass fill it up halfway and take a sip. I notice the sulfur smell in our water when I am in the shower or drinking out of a glass. Never smell sulfur when I wash the dishes in the sink but whatever right. @@mrobvious1100
At 1:07 the first view of the threads show that this is/was NOT a new unit.... The entire threaded portion should be clean/shiny and the item you received look to have been used/threaded into a tank. As you mentioned YOUR water smell is originating from your well and as the hot water treated with a powered anode will benefit, any cold water will have any odors that comes from the well.
NOTE - I tested the operation of my powered anode and the LED on the wall wart power unit will ONLY illuminate when the anode is in contact with the tank water and conducting to the tank, (grounded by the ground lug).... SO, if anyone just plugs the wall wart in without being installed, the LED will NOT illuminate. This method of operation shows that when the LED is illuminated, there is indeed a current flow from the anode to the tank's inside walls....
Thanks for the clarification on the LED light on meaning current is flowing though the device.
I appreciate the video as I had a sneaky suspicion that most of these five star ratings are just paid for their fake ratings. I was about to drop $180 for one but I'm going to spend that money on the outside water system instead.
I have heard positive statements too about how it would fix the odor problem, but it did not work for me. I was sort of throwing a glass of water on a fire hoping for the best.
Fun
Thats one way to describe it.
A Powered Anode is called an ICCP devise (induced current cathodic protection). Its purpose is to supply the tank with electrons to prevent interior corrosion of the tank and nothing more. It is the removal of the aluminum/magnesium anode that stops hot water odor, not the powered anode.
If your well head has not been sanitized in years or if you keep the tanks temperature around 120 degrees, you will still have the odor. If you turn your main tanks temp to 130 degrees, the heat will kill the incoming sulfate bacteria instantly and the odor associated with it.
I have been selling ICCP systems (powered anode rod) for years and periodically, homeowners email me when they run into this problem. 130 degrees will fix it 98% of the time.
I want to say thanks Matt, but I will have to try it first. I do not think I have ever had my well head sanitized so something else to research and check. I will have to test the water temperature coming out of the faucet and look at the controls on the water heater elements. Will comment on the temperature when I have it.
@mattray258 I have had similar smell issue. Replaced annode rod two years ago and was fine till now. Replaced annode rod again. Smell was back within days. Drained water heater and flushed it and turned water heater to highest setting(to kill bacteria like you said) week later smell has come back even with the temp so high
I would have your water tested. Normal bacteria can not survive at temps above 135 so you must have something else going on with your well.
Did remove the abode rod all together help anyone?
It did not fix my problem.
@@diyhomefront1695 I guess I need to determine if it’s bacteria in the tank itself or the well but when I first replaced the anode rod I treated the water heater tank with peroxide and it worked for a few weeks
@@KollynJ Most of the things I have done seemed to help for a while but I have found nothing that fixed the problem.
@@diyhomefront1695 what have you done
Wrong application. It’s not designed to get rid of sulfur.
Your right about that.
Ok not the products fault it’s or we’ll just saying