CORRO-PROTEC install and thoughts.
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2023
- We were having an unpleasant odor from our well water after it passed through our water heater. After some research by my dad, we decided to give Corro-Protec a try. I wanted to document the install and our experience with the product to show people that its not a daunting DIY project.
Description of job -
Turn gas and water off to the water heater, release pressure from TP valve on heater, Remove old anode, install CORRO-PROTEC with Teflon tape or other thread sealer on the threads to prevent leaks, remove screw from cap of water heater and sand away any paint or coating so a good ground can be made, install screw back in hole with ground ring connector on electrical connection, plug spade connector into CORRO-PROTEC, shut TP valve, open water valves on heater, check for leaks, plug device into outlet, Re-light water heater.
Tools used -
Large ratchet or breaker bar, deep sockets 1 1/16” for removing old anode, 1 3/16” installing CORRO-PROTEC, Teflon tape or thread sealant, screwdriver for removing screw for ground, rough sandpaper for removing paint for ground.
Pro tip -
Take your time, breathe, and if you’re getting frustrated take a break. 
Кино
![Keep Water Heater from Spinning! [Remove Anode Rod EASY TRICK]](/img/1.gif)
FYI: The LED on the wall wart power unit will ONLY illuminate if there is a current flow from the powered anode rod through the water to the inside of the tank, (ground)....
The only problem is getting the old anode out. Get the old one out and it's easy. Best way to remove the old one is to use a impact gun.
That’s exactly what I did, they really tighten those suckers down in the factory.
I installed this very electric anode and it seems to be doing the job. I used my impact wrench to losen the original anode rod.
I even registered this new product on their web site, for warranty purposes.
One funny thing is the green LED on the power adapter, this LED is so bright it lights up my garage
I was pretty surprised at how fast it worked. It’s amazing how little led lights can be so bright, I have one on the dash of my vw van that’s too bright driving at night.
You might want to pull the new anode rode out and wrap the threads with plumber’s teflon tape. This will make it easier if you ever need to remove it.
Thank you for the comment, I actually did put Teflon tape on the threads, the editing didn’t show it, and I should have mentioned it.
This thing saved my showers! Love it!
I’m very happy with this product so far. Clever bit of kit.
Agree with the others, the removal of the factory anode is usually a PITA; but easier going forward. Fun to watch you from a socket driver, to a breaker bar, to an impact wrench!
Question for others - should penetrating oil (WD40, Liquid Wrench) be used? My thought was some of it gets on the threads (where it's supposed to be working) and drips down into the tank when the bolt head is removed, and you've contaminated the tank. Even if just a little - would you ever get it completely out?
No smell from my HWH. But when it's time to change the anode, I'd consider going with this one, just so I can hopefully get ~20 years lifetime out of it, vs having to replace a standard rod one every few years. [I have a Rheem heat pump HWH, so I'd need to disassemble and remove the upper shell to get to the anode.]
Ha ha, it was coming out one way or another.
How do you know its actually working? How long have these been out? I guess only time will tell.
After installation, the odor from our water went away.
There is real science behind this electric anode rod preventing electrolysis.
Anybody know approx how long the power chord is on the unit?
I remember it being about 12’ long, I did a quick google on that and it’s says 12’ also.
@@CHILLSEEKERSPATRICKDOWD thank you
Mine came with a 4' cord (all the way down the tank, about 1 1/2' across the floor and 6 inches up to the socket)
Fake
you're fake lol.
nah, great video, bro!@@CHILLSEEKERSPATRICKDOWD