Glad someone is making videos about this printer. I gotta mention something that you left out in the value comparison... When you're buying a 2.4 kit you still need to print or buy the printed parts and try to find a raspberry pi. The cost of this machine is probably lower than the kit all things considered.
He tells in the first video that you must print the parts by your own, so you know automatically that it costs more but that’s the price of the set and the price of the printer (out of the box)
@@tobiasrosen2698 Okay, but there are people that will see this that didn't see the other video no? If you don't have a raspberry pi or the patience to wait to find one in stock, that's gonna be another $100. If you don't have a way to currently print ABS or patience to wait for PIF parts, that could be another $150. Those numbers are way too significant to leave out of a comparison. Anywho, these videos have been great, it's not an attack on them at all. It's really interesting to see that a company actually made this work, I'll be shocked if Creality and others don't get in the mix soon.
Great video and series! I would definitely like to see a video on how to do the input shaping on the Troodon either as it's own video or as part of a larger in-depth review video. Thank you.
Thank you for the review. Even though I have an X1CC and built my own Voron 2.4r1 300mm variant, it is very cool to see a near turn-key solution. I'd love a 4th video where you highlight the reprap firmware variant and go though the process of updating firmware settings and whether there are caveats with the custom board w/ reprap firmware. One of the advantages of using Klipper is the ability to live update firmware settings and firmware update workflows are much more streamlined than Marlin. I have zero experience with reprap and coupled with a custom board, it would make me more hesitant on purchasing this solution.
Thanks for watching. RepRap is similar to Klipper in a lot of ways. All of the firmware configuration is done in a config file that can be modified on the fly. The changes will take effect on next boot, unlike Marlin which requires you to recompile.
Great series! I wasn't aware of this printer before I saw your first video. I'd be hesitant to buy this if I just saw the printer on their website. But since you've shown how it all looks and how easy it is to build, and now some real results, I think I might be in the market for one. What I'd like to see is how easy it would be to convert this printer to Klipper. I have a few Pi's lying around and I assume the board and screen that they put in can be used with Klipper, since it's based on the Octopus. Maybe it's a good idea to do a video on the conversion to Klipper.
Thanks for watching. I know a lot of people will be interested in the process for converting this to Klipper. I might consider it just for the video but for my personal applications the stock firmware seems good enough, especially with the cost of Pi's and given that I don't have any on hand that aren't being used.
@@milowmilo Thanks for the sub! The Troodon is definitely more of a niche printer. With the similarity of the Troodon 2 to the Voron 2.4 I think it will be much more mainstream than the original Troodon.
I purchased this printer instead of the Voron 2.4 because of the lack of availability of Raspberry Pi and the fact that the parts for this seemed to be better quality rather than 3d printing them. With import taxes and shipping to the UK it cost £1000, should be getting delivered today 10 days after the expected delivery date. I will look to buy the additional part mentioned to speed up the printing. When setting up in Cura did you just use Voron 2.4 settings. This is my 4th 3d printer but will have the biggest build volume. Thank you for sharing your experience, while I have had a printer for 3 plus years I still feel quite inexperienced.
I used Vivedino's Cura machine profile that they supply with the printer. As for the print profiles, you'd be better off using the ones for the Voron as the supplied ones are not good.
I'm currently running a Luzlzbot Taz 5 from 2015. I'm in the market to upgrade, and this is the first time I've seen this printer. I'm going to seriously look into this as my upgrade. Just wish it had a better motherboard option. Thanks for the review.
Hello, Great videos. Really appreciate all the information. I have been considering a Troodon for a very long time,, as a hobbyist, I could not justify the cost and so little information and reviews.. I was then considering building a 2.4. but found this available for pre-order. Your videos have helped me decide. I have placed an order for one. I would very much appreciate another video, the input shaping would be great also, as I don't have a lot of experience with programing. Thank you so much, and your contribution to the 3D printing community!
Thanks for watching! Glad you found the videos useful. The new Troodon 2.0 comes in at a lower price point than the original Troodon which is great. It’s definitely a better buy than the original, albeit with a slightly smaller build volume and more involved assembly process.
Interesting video. Interesting printer. How is the cooling? And YES, would love to see an input sharing kompensation. Before and after. Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃
The cooling fan on the afterburner is definitely underpowered for printing PLA at high speeds. There’s a reason Bambu chose to add an auxiliary part cooling fan to the X1C and RatRig has moved to a beefy 4028 fan for part cooling on the V-Core 3. These solutions provide a lot more airflow than the small 4020 fan on the Afterburner.
I don't know if you have a Bambu Labs printer (I know they sent them out to RUclipsrs en masse) but I what I haven't seen yet is a comparison between Voron vs Troodon vs Bambu Labs (X1 or P1P) or any other major CoreXY printer in terms of usability, quality, upgradability, dependability, etc. I think it would make for a good and useful video. Otherwise great stuff!
Considering the value for money : the price is now above 1300Euro (1052 for the machine and add 299 for transport) and looking at the benchy .... I'm quite ok with my X1CC which prints clearly better out of the box at higher speeds. Does not have the bigger build volume but for big projects, even the 350x350 is smallish for big projects. At 899 ? Yes. At 1351 Euro ? Nope. Just my opinion. But for sure thank you for the very informative video !
Thanks for watching. The X1C is still my favourite printer that I own. When Bambu releases a larger build volume equivalent that will likely make many machines obsolete. For now, the Troodon 2 is a nice option. It's definitely important to consider the shipping cost in the cost of the printer which makes the overall cost a good bit higher. You pay for shipping on most printers but Vivedino shipping does seem particularly expensive. Mine was air shipped for $209 USD. The original Troodon I ordered from Vivedino was shipped by sea at no cost. You could probably request that they ship by sea instead and request that they give you a better rate on shipping if cost is sensitive and you're willing to wait.
Glad the wiki was helpful! Would be good if you could join our discord channel so we can support you with input shaping etc as well as other aspects of the printer
could you convert this to a standard 2.4? AKA does it have the same non-printed BOM as a voron 2.4? (I'm mainly looking at that top hat) if it has the same hardware, this seems like a great way to get people started with a voron. if it doesn't... it seems like a semi walled garden, which is why I chose a voron over another printer in the first place: to avoid walled gardens.
There are quite a few differences from the 2.4. It's not just a pre-assembled 2.4 with injection molded / metal parts instead of printed plastic, but rather a different spin on the base 2.4 design. As I mention in the video, some of the standard Voron upgrades would be compatible but not all. Some may need to be tweaked.
Great video bro. Thanks for sharing💕. Thanks to voron ( for builders) thanks to troodon( for ARTP makers )..😊 Looking forward RTP Voron for makers Users( like Bambu ) 😊
I just finished installation of my new Troodon 2.0. Looks very nice. Also the simplify3d profile is rubbish. I´ll tune it to it´s max potential. Probably even install the Accel. Meter. Thanks for the video.
Any suggestions on what to do with the PTFE tube for the reverse bowden? When printing near the top it seems to get trapped or rubs in the Z belts. Then if you start a print after a tall print it gets in the way and causes the Y homing to be off .
Great video! Really looking forward to seeing more unique uploads like this topic. First, I can’t seem to find whether this is more a voron 2.0 derivative or something from later revisions. Second, is it hard to change the board and add a raspi for Klipper FW, seeing that there is some specific wiring from the mainboard. Third, are the injection molded parts delivering some additional benefits towards the printing quality (I do not own a voron yet, so I can’t tell how crucial the printed parts are for the printing quality). Forth, how are the electrical components compared to voron kits (e.g. bed heater , motors, fans, filtration system,…)
Thanks! I believe it’s based on the 2.4 R1. Changing the board would require that you eliminate the bus cable going to the breakout board. This means you will need to make extensions to go from the z axis cable chain to the board, since currently the wires are only long enough to reach the breakout board. I honestly don’t think it would be worth the effort. If you’re really keen on Klipper I would just wait for someone to make a config for the stock board. The injection molded parts don’t offer a lot of benefit over the printed parts besides being a bit more robust and cleaner looking aesthetically. Most of the electronics on this printer are the same or similar as Vivedino’s Voron 2.4 kit.
Mine is on order but China is on holiday till Feb 1. The speeds you posted for the Prusa Voron profile (used for your tests) are roughly 2.5x faster than my current printer. To me that's Wow, though I'll still probably have to print slower since I only print PETG. Concerns at this point (and you asked for ideas) are: 1) how annoying is filament loading back there, lol? 2) How loud is it? 3) Yes, very interested in Input Shaping step by step (I will be doing this for sure). 4) FB Forum posts indicated some concerns regarding initial nozzle height adjustments. Team Gloomy posted revised calibration scripts. Which did you use, and did you have any problems? Really appreciate your videos (actually surprised this one came out so quickly). Many thanks.
Thanks for watching Don. To answer your questions: 1) I haven't found a home for the printer yet. I could envision it being somewhat inconvenient with the rear mounted spool holder so might need to find a different solution. 2) It's about as loud as an average printer. It's definitely quieter than the Bambu X1C which is notoriously loud. 3) Accelerometer arrived today. Will plan to record the input shaping process. 4) I didn't have any issues with the z height adjustment. The instructions provided in the manual worked out perfectly for me. On the other hand, the stock gantry levelling macro is lacking because it only does one iteration. The Team Gloomy gantry levelling script does quad gantry levelling, which is the normal behaviour in Klipper firmware. I haven't done it myself but I would suggest using their revised macro. Thanks again for watching. Wanted to get this one out in a reasonable time frame. It was definitely a bit of a grind but I appreciate the fact that you noticed the effort!
@@ygk3d Hey thx for the fast reply. I too was wondering about a different spool location, considering both a top, or even a side feed solution. I'd like to put mine flush against a back wall, with occasional turn to access the filter. Side feed would be most convenient, maybe drilling a hole in the plexiglass for mounting the bowden feed somehow. I do need to actually "get my printer" first to figure this all out, LOL. Very excited about the huge bed size, and the possibility of working with Input Shaping is like WOW. And by the way, thank you very much... its a huge load off my mind you had no issues with the Z Height adjustment. Setup and printing with the Prusa Voron profile now sounds like it'll be a smooth go.
Hi, Nice Video . My Trodoon 2.0 Arrive Today . Do you have a Good Cura Profile, or it's the Formbot Cura Settings ok. It`s my first Core xy Printer and Reprap. Normally i use Cura and my ASWX2 and my CR10S Pro. I Am a little bit Nervous to Finish the Build and Work with Reprap Bad English i now.... German 🙂
Thanks for watching! The supplied Cura profile is not good. I would suggest starting with the profiles for the Voron 2.4 and changing the g-code flavor to RepRap and replacing the start and end scripts with what Formbot has supplied.
Nice video. I'm curious what your thoughts are on Vivedino's larger 400x400x500 Core XY machine? Looks like another Voron clone, but with that volume, that would be a sweet setup. (Would be nice to shave some serious time off of those larger prints.)
I like my original Troodon but it has its issues. If you could pick one up second hand it might be worthwhile but right now the new machines are priced a bit high in my opinion.
I wish there were more videos regarding these printers. I found a Troodon 400x400x500 model and would LOVE to purchase it, but not at a $3600 price point without any kind of reviews.
I have the 400x400, and its really nice. I plugged it in, tuned my Z offset, and have been running PLA and ASA non stop for months. I need 2 more, but at this point I am looking at the 350mm 2.0 in this video because I can get 2 of those for less than one more 400x400. If you NEED the 400mm size, and don't want to build your own printer from scratch, I'd still buy it.
Thanks for watching! Yes, this machine could run Klipper but it will require someone to create a configuration file for Klipper as this board is custom. The config for the Octopus should be a good start for the firmware-savvy individual to modify from. The stock firmware (RepRap 3.4) seems pretty capable. It has a built in web interface that is very comparable to Mainsail. I've ordered an accelerometer and am going to try the input shaping process. If that works I personally wouldn't have any reason to prefer Klipper over this firmware, especially with the current cost of Raspberry Pi's.
Thank you for this honestly review. I receveid mine this week. Same thing for high speed, and i dont like Cura prefer prusa slicer. Thank you for the tips adxl alternative, I will check for instal this. Intersted machine for 990 dollars in Europe shippment.
What's the comparison between the voron and the voron clone 🤭 and the rat rig on speed and quality, its all good and well printing at light speed but if the print looks pants and dimensional accuracy is also pants is there any point, more videos would be great if you have the time 👍
I like all of the above for different reasons. They're all good machines in their own right. I enjoy the large size of the RatRig 500. I get good print quality from the Voron and the Troodon. I prefer the Troodon for the simple fact that it came mostly pre-assembled and has better components from factory.
I see it very interesting, i'm from México were we don´t have to much options for 3D printing, i´m very sick of Creality's and i want some fresh air, that printer is one of my candidate alongside a Prusa or a Bambu labs, all of them with their drawbacks related to their distribution on México.
No. You need to buy it separately. I found one for around $10 on Amazon. It would be nice if they included it or at least had a port on the board for it without needing to repurpose the LCD pins, but not so.
@@milowmilo Yes, but will need someone to create a configuration file for Klipper as this board is custom. The config for the Octopus should be a good start for the firmware-savvy individual to modify from. The stock firmware (RepRap 3.4) seems pretty capable. It has a built in web interface that is very comparable to Mainsail. I've ordered an accelerometer and am going to try the input shaping process. If that works I personally wouldn't have any reason to prefer Klipper over this firmware, especially with the current cost of Raspberry Pi's.
@@ygk3d This makes so much sense to me. I get folks wanting Klipper if that's what they're used to. But coming from a smallish printer with no user interface other than what's built into their proprietary slicer, the Troodon's Duet Web Control interface looks very capable.
I haven't put the Troodon through its paces well enough to make a call on which is better. I'll always have a special place in my heart for the Prusa MK3S. They may not be the fastest printers but they're reliable workhorses.
I don't have experience with the P1P but I do own the X1C. The X1C has better quality out of the box at higher speeds with no tuning required, but the build volume is smaller than the Troodon.
WHY DO OTHERS THAT OWN MANY PRINTERS, SPEND TRIPPLE PRICE UPGRADING PRINTER TO MAKE IT A QUALITY PRINTER? I WANT “A” GOOD ONE OUT OF THE BOX AT ONE PRICE. ANSWER DIRECT PLZ.
Because 3D printing is a hobby for many people, not just a tool. If you’re looking for a great out-of-the-box printer, the Bambu Lab X1C is the closest to turn key you will find at a consumer price point. This Troodon 2.0 is a good option as well but will require a little more advanced knowledge or desire to learn and tinker.
I have no attitude. Just that I never saw a product that no matter the brand, there are options galore beyond the high priced base unit. Now if it came with a high quality printer head, and laser cutter, change out cutting table of course. Then once remounted the software adequately read components and align appropriately, I would gladly but one. As you well know, I am not knowledgeable in printing. (To expensive ). But I need special print containers always for high tech items, I need various materials laser cut to spec. Maybe in 2 or 3 more generations, there will be such a device. Mean time those that print for a living can earn my business to benefit them as well.
I bought one of these printers after watching your video, and I absolutly hate it. Maybe you should make a video about slicer settings with RepCrap. It is built well, but it has some huge shortcomings that you don't mention, like how the stock macros are terrible, how the supplied slicer setting are terrible, how the bearing fails in the extruder, omg there is more but I'm being gentle. The truth is an Ender prints better than this stock. Sorry for the nasty comment.
Hey. Sorry to hear about your issues. It sounds like you may have gotten a lemon. I did mention in multiple videos, including this one, that the slicer settings are awful. Based on your experience, I would suggest switching the machine to Klipper and using the Voron slicer profiles.
No issues so far sending g-code and accessing the web interface. It is perfectly responsive. Certainly more convenient than SD card loading, but most printers these days have wireless connectivity so it's not a huge differentiator by any means.
Definitely needs some further tuning. I generally get nice looking prints from my Voron but under the harsh light the boat did not look superb by any means.
Yeah, I misspoke on that. I had misinterpreted some information I had been given. The point I should have made is that this isn’t an identical copy, therefore not a true clone. But there are a lot of design elements they copied verbatim.
the point about wifi as a value add dont make any sense just buy board that supports wifi and need for rpi as networking device i get the impression that u dont known what are u talking about
The Octopus, which is a popular controller board for use with the Voron, does not have WiFi capability built in. For this, you would need to add a Raspberry Pi which is an additional cost. So, yes, built in WiFi is a value added feature. The Pi is also used to run Klipper so you could argue that the WiFi bit is a moot point, but it’s really just a footnote in this video anyways.
simple analogy i want buy a car with Dual-zone climate control but instead i bougt one with one-zone climate control because is popular buying rpi just for wifi is just stupid if someone building a 3d printer from scratch can easily choose board that supports wifi
Thanks for watching! I'm curious...if you had a "3D Printer" scented air freshener, what would it smell like?
ABS printing O:)
ABS fumes, no doubt
Charred PTFE
glue sticks and burnt hair spray
the smell you get when you open a new roll of filament from its vacuum bag
Glad someone is making videos about this printer. I gotta mention something that you left out in the value comparison... When you're buying a 2.4 kit you still need to print or buy the printed parts and try to find a raspberry pi. The cost of this machine is probably lower than the kit all things considered.
He tells in the first video that you must print the parts by your own, so you know automatically that it costs more but that’s the price of the set and the price of the printer (out of the box)
Very true! Not to mention the print time for all those parts...
@@tobiasrosen2698 Okay, but there are people that will see this that didn't see the other video no? If you don't have a raspberry pi or the patience to wait to find one in stock, that's gonna be another $100. If you don't have a way to currently print ABS or patience to wait for PIF parts, that could be another $150. Those numbers are way too significant to leave out of a comparison.
Anywho, these videos have been great, it's not an attack on them at all. It's really interesting to see that a company actually made this work, I'll be shocked if Creality and others don't get in the mix soon.
@@Brunoku agreed that it should be mentioned, but there are many pi clones in stock that run just as reliably and much cheaper. Lookin at you, MKS Pi.
A part four would be great. Keep up the good work.
Great video and series! I would definitely like to see a video on how to do the input shaping on the Troodon either as it's own video or as part of a larger in-depth review video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! The accelerometer I ordered arrived today so I'll plan to make a video on the input shaping process.
I'm thinking of it. Yes on a 4th or 5th video, input shaping and upgrading would be interesting.
Thanks, that was a mystery printer up until now, I'm definitely considering it more now over 2.4
Thanks for watching!
I would love to see a video more in depth comparing reprap to klipper using the Vorons' as examples. Keep up the Awesome content 👍
Thank you for the review. Even though I have an X1CC and built my own Voron 2.4r1 300mm variant, it is very cool to see a near turn-key solution. I'd love a 4th video where you highlight the reprap firmware variant and go though the process of updating firmware settings and whether there are caveats with the custom board w/ reprap firmware. One of the advantages of using Klipper is the ability to live update firmware settings and firmware update workflows are much more streamlined than Marlin. I have zero experience with reprap and coupled with a custom board, it would make me more hesitant on purchasing this solution.
Thanks for watching. RepRap is similar to Klipper in a lot of ways. All of the firmware configuration is done in a config file that can be modified on the fly. The changes will take effect on next boot, unlike Marlin which requires you to recompile.
How do you like your x1cc? Is it worth the money?
Great series! I wasn't aware of this printer before I saw your first video. I'd be hesitant to buy this if I just saw the printer on their website. But since you've shown how it all looks and how easy it is to build, and now some real results, I think I might be in the market for one. What I'd like to see is how easy it would be to convert this printer to Klipper. I have a few Pi's lying around and I assume the board and screen that they put in can be used with Klipper, since it's based on the Octopus. Maybe it's a good idea to do a video on the conversion to Klipper.
Yeah, I’d like to see that too. This video definitely made me follow the channel. Haven’t seen anyone talk about the Troodon before.
Thanks for watching. I know a lot of people will be interested in the process for converting this to Klipper. I might consider it just for the video but for my personal applications the stock firmware seems good enough, especially with the cost of Pi's and given that I don't have any on hand that aren't being used.
@@milowmilo Thanks for the sub! The Troodon is definitely more of a niche printer. With the similarity of the Troodon 2 to the Voron 2.4 I think it will be much more mainstream than the original Troodon.
Really appreciate this video. Answered so many of my questions!
I purchased this printer instead of the Voron 2.4 because of the lack of availability of Raspberry Pi and the fact that the parts for this seemed to be better quality rather than 3d printing them. With import taxes and shipping to the UK it cost £1000, should be getting delivered today 10 days after the expected delivery date. I will look to buy the additional part mentioned to speed up the printing. When setting up in Cura did you just use Voron 2.4 settings. This is my 4th 3d printer but will have the biggest build volume. Thank you for sharing your experience, while I have had a printer for 3 plus years I still feel quite inexperienced.
I used Vivedino's Cura machine profile that they supply with the printer. As for the print profiles, you'd be better off using the ones for the Voron as the supplied ones are not good.
I'm currently running a Luzlzbot Taz 5 from 2015. I'm in the market to upgrade, and this is the first time I've seen this printer. I'm going to seriously look into this as my upgrade. Just wish it had a better motherboard option. Thanks for the review.
Great video series on troodon 2.0. Would love to learn more about your experiences with printing different materials.
Hello, Great videos. Really appreciate all the information. I have been considering a Troodon for a very long time,, as a hobbyist, I could not justify the cost and so little information and reviews.. I was then considering building a 2.4. but found this available for pre-order. Your videos have helped me decide. I have placed an order for one.
I would very much appreciate another video, the input shaping would be great also, as I don't have a lot of experience with programing. Thank you so much, and your contribution to the 3D printing community!
Thanks for watching! Glad you found the videos useful. The new Troodon 2.0 comes in at a lower price point than the original Troodon which is great. It’s definitely a better buy than the original, albeit with a slightly smaller build volume and more involved assembly process.
Put it through Ellis tuning guide.. would love to see tuning from ground up
Interesting video.
Interesting printer.
How is the cooling?
And YES, would love to see an input sharing kompensation. Before and after.
Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃
The cooling fan on the afterburner is definitely underpowered for printing PLA at high speeds. There’s a reason Bambu chose to add an auxiliary part cooling fan to the X1C and RatRig has moved to a beefy 4028 fan for part cooling on the V-Core 3. These solutions provide a lot more airflow than the small 4020 fan on the Afterburner.
I don't know if you have a Bambu Labs printer (I know they sent them out to RUclipsrs en masse) but I what I haven't seen yet is a comparison between Voron vs Troodon vs Bambu Labs (X1 or P1P) or any other major CoreXY printer in terms of usability, quality, upgradability, dependability, etc. I think it would make for a good and useful video.
Otherwise great stuff!
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a few Bambu X1Cs and love them.
Awesome and informative!
Thanks a lot!
Yeah i would like a video about input shaping on this one :)
Considering the value for money : the price is now above 1300Euro (1052 for the machine and add 299 for transport) and looking at the benchy .... I'm quite ok with my X1CC which prints clearly better out of the box at higher speeds. Does not have the bigger build volume but for big projects, even the 350x350 is smallish for big projects. At 899 ? Yes. At 1351 Euro ? Nope. Just my opinion. But for sure thank you for the very informative video !
Thanks for watching. The X1C is still my favourite printer that I own. When Bambu releases a larger build volume equivalent that will likely make many machines obsolete. For now, the Troodon 2 is a nice option. It's definitely important to consider the shipping cost in the cost of the printer which makes the overall cost a good bit higher. You pay for shipping on most printers but Vivedino shipping does seem particularly expensive. Mine was air shipped for $209 USD. The original Troodon I ordered from Vivedino was shipped by sea at no cost. You could probably request that they ship by sea instead and request that they give you a better rate on shipping if cost is sensitive and you're willing to wait.
i just learned about this printer.. i was going to build a voron, but i dont have the time to take on another project with my current backlog
Glad the wiki was helpful! Would be good if you could join our discord channel so we can support you with input shaping etc as well as other aspects of the printer
Super helpful. Thanks for the great resources! I'll definitely check out the Discord.
could you convert this to a standard 2.4? AKA does it have the same non-printed BOM as a voron 2.4? (I'm mainly looking at that top hat)
if it has the same hardware, this seems like a great way to get people started with a voron.
if it doesn't... it seems like a semi walled garden, which is why I chose a voron over another printer in the first place: to avoid walled gardens.
There are quite a few differences from the 2.4. It's not just a pre-assembled 2.4 with injection molded / metal parts instead of printed plastic, but rather a different spin on the base 2.4 design. As I mention in the video, some of the standard Voron upgrades would be compatible but not all. Some may need to be tweaked.
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Great video bro. Thanks for sharing💕. Thanks to voron ( for builders) thanks to troodon( for ARTP makers )..😊
Looking forward RTP Voron for makers Users( like Bambu ) 😊
Would love to see a video of input shaping and any other upgrades you choose to do.
Just posted a video on input shaping!
Wha? It doesn't come with Klipper? Are they crazy?
I just finished installation of my new Troodon 2.0. Looks very nice. Also the simplify3d profile is rubbish. I´ll tune it to it´s max potential. Probably even install the Accel. Meter. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video would love to see more on this printer. Thanks
Any suggestions on what to do with the PTFE tube for the reverse bowden? When printing near the top it seems to get trapped or rubs in the Z belts. Then if you start a print after a tall print it gets in the way and causes the Y homing to be off .
Great video! Really looking forward to seeing more unique uploads like this topic. First, I can’t seem to find whether this is more a voron 2.0 derivative or something from later revisions. Second, is it hard to change the board and add a raspi for Klipper FW, seeing that there is some specific wiring from the mainboard. Third, are the injection molded parts delivering some additional benefits towards the printing quality (I do not own a voron yet, so
I can’t tell how crucial the printed parts are for the printing quality). Forth, how are the electrical components compared to voron kits (e.g. bed heater , motors, fans, filtration system,…)
Thanks! I believe it’s based on the 2.4 R1. Changing the board would require that you eliminate the bus cable going to the breakout board. This means you will need to make extensions to go from the z axis cable chain to the board, since currently the wires are only long enough to reach the breakout board. I honestly don’t think it would be worth the effort. If you’re really keen on Klipper I would just wait for someone to make a config for the stock board. The injection molded parts don’t offer a lot of benefit over the printed parts besides being a bit more robust and cleaner looking aesthetically. Most of the electronics on this printer are the same or similar as Vivedino’s Voron 2.4 kit.
Mine is on order but China is on holiday till Feb 1. The speeds you posted for the Prusa Voron profile (used for your tests) are roughly 2.5x faster than my current printer. To me that's Wow, though I'll still probably have to print slower since I only print PETG. Concerns at this point (and you asked for ideas) are:
1) how annoying is filament loading back there, lol?
2) How loud is it?
3) Yes, very interested in Input Shaping step by step (I will be doing this for sure).
4) FB Forum posts indicated some concerns regarding initial nozzle height adjustments. Team Gloomy posted revised calibration scripts. Which did you use, and did you have any problems?
Really appreciate your videos (actually surprised this one came out so quickly). Many thanks.
Thanks for watching Don. To answer your questions:
1) I haven't found a home for the printer yet. I could envision it being somewhat inconvenient with the rear mounted spool holder so might need to find a different solution.
2) It's about as loud as an average printer. It's definitely quieter than the Bambu X1C which is notoriously loud.
3) Accelerometer arrived today. Will plan to record the input shaping process.
4) I didn't have any issues with the z height adjustment. The instructions provided in the manual worked out perfectly for me. On the other hand, the stock gantry levelling macro is lacking because it only does one iteration. The Team Gloomy gantry levelling script does quad gantry levelling, which is the normal behaviour in Klipper firmware. I haven't done it myself but I would suggest using their revised macro.
Thanks again for watching. Wanted to get this one out in a reasonable time frame. It was definitely a bit of a grind but I appreciate the fact that you noticed the effort!
@@ygk3d Hey thx for the fast reply. I too was wondering about a different spool location, considering both a top, or even a side feed solution. I'd like to put mine flush against a back wall, with occasional turn to access the filter. Side feed would be most convenient, maybe drilling a hole in the plexiglass for mounting the bowden feed somehow. I do need to actually "get my printer" first to figure this all out, LOL.
Very excited about the huge bed size, and the possibility of working with Input Shaping is like WOW. And by the way, thank you very much... its a huge load off my mind you had no issues with the Z Height adjustment.
Setup and printing with the Prusa Voron profile now sounds like it'll be a smooth go.
I’m about to order a boron 2.4 kit, The 350mm one. Why take chances.
Hi, Nice Video . My Trodoon 2.0 Arrive Today . Do you have a Good Cura Profile, or it's the Formbot Cura Settings ok.
It`s my first Core xy Printer and Reprap.
Normally i use Cura and my ASWX2 and my CR10S Pro.
I Am a little bit Nervous to Finish the Build and Work with Reprap
Bad English i now.... German 🙂
Thanks for watching! The supplied Cura profile is not good. I would suggest starting with the profiles for the Voron 2.4 and changing the g-code flavor to RepRap and replacing the start and end scripts with what Formbot has supplied.
Nice video. I'm curious what your thoughts are on Vivedino's larger 400x400x500 Core XY machine? Looks like another Voron clone, but with that volume, that would be a sweet setup. (Would be nice to shave some serious time off of those larger prints.)
I like my original Troodon but it has its issues. If you could pick one up second hand it might be worthwhile but right now the new machines are priced a bit high in my opinion.
I wish there were more videos regarding these printers. I found a Troodon 400x400x500 model and would LOVE to purchase it, but not at a $3600 price point without any kind of reviews.
If you can live with a slightly smaller build volume, The Troodon 2 is significantly less expensive than the original Troodon, even though it's newer.
I have the 400x400, and its really nice. I plugged it in, tuned my Z offset, and have been running PLA and ASA non stop for months. I need 2 more, but at this point I am looking at the 350mm 2.0 in this video because I can get 2 of those for less than one more 400x400. If you NEED the 400mm size, and don't want to build your own printer from scratch, I'd still buy it.
can you just PI+klipper this machine?
Going guess yes? Haven't looked in detail yet.
Yes. I provide the details in a later video in this series.
@@ygk3d yep; joined the thingmajid and poking at config file now.
Just found your channel 👍🏻 this seems like a nice printer. Can you run klipper on this machine?
Thanks for watching! Yes, this machine could run Klipper but it will require someone to create a configuration file for Klipper as this board is custom. The config for the Octopus should be a good start for the firmware-savvy individual to modify from. The stock firmware (RepRap 3.4) seems pretty capable. It has a built in web interface that is very comparable to Mainsail. I've ordered an accelerometer and am going to try the input shaping process. If that works I personally wouldn't have any reason to prefer Klipper over this firmware, especially with the current cost of Raspberry Pi's.
Thank you for this honestly review. I receveid mine this week. Same thing for high speed, and i dont like Cura prefer prusa slicer. Thank you for the tips adxl alternative, I will check for instal this.
Intersted machine for 990 dollars in Europe shippment.
What's the comparison between the voron and the voron clone 🤭 and the rat rig on speed and quality, its all good and well printing at light speed but if the print looks pants and dimensional accuracy is also pants is there any point, more videos would be great if you have the time 👍
I like all of the above for different reasons. They're all good machines in their own right. I enjoy the large size of the RatRig 500. I get good print quality from the Voron and the Troodon. I prefer the Troodon for the simple fact that it came mostly pre-assembled and has better components from factory.
A video that includes input shaping would be sweet
You're in luck... I just posted one ;)
@@ygk3d yooooooooooo
Interesting Video, I like the idea of the Troodon.
In my opinion the sound of the chapter change are a bit annoying. But these are just my 2 cents.
Thanks for your feedback. Just experimenting. I used a glitch title so thought the glitch sound would compliment it well.
I see it very interesting, i'm from México were we don´t have to much options for 3D printing, i´m very sick of Creality's and i want some fresh air, that printer is one of my candidate alongside a Prusa or a Bambu labs, all of them with their drawbacks related to their distribution on México.
Do they ship with a accelerometer? Since reprap also have inputshaper.
No. You need to buy it separately. I found one for around $10 on Amazon. It would be nice if they included it or at least had a port on the board for it without needing to repurpose the LCD pins, but not so.
What controller is in it. a Duet 2 Wifi Clone?
That’s the case for the original Troodon. The Troodon 2.0 has a custom board designed by BigTreeTech called the Octopus X7.
Can you mod this to eventually match a 2.4 r2?
I’d also like to know. Can’t we just change the board and add a raspi?
I believe this is based on the 2.4 R1 but you could make some change to bring it up to R2.
@@milowmilo Yes, but will need someone to create a configuration file for Klipper as this board is custom. The config for the Octopus should be a good start for the firmware-savvy individual to modify from. The stock firmware (RepRap 3.4) seems pretty capable. It has a built in web interface that is very comparable to Mainsail. I've ordered an accelerometer and am going to try the input shaping process. If that works I personally wouldn't have any reason to prefer Klipper over this firmware, especially with the current cost of Raspberry Pi's.
@@ygk3d This makes so much sense to me. I get folks wanting Klipper if that's what they're used to. But coming from a smallish printer with no user interface other than what's built into their proprietary slicer, the Troodon's Duet Web Control interface looks very capable.
How do you feel it performs compared to your prusa
I haven't put the Troodon through its paces well enough to make a call on which is better. I'll always have a special place in my heart for the Prusa MK3S. They may not be the fastest printers but they're reliable workhorses.
Can you put klipper on it?
Yes, that would be an option, but not sure it's worthwhile.
Where can I order this printer?
Aliexpress
It's available on AliExpress or formbot3d.com
How's the quality compared to the p1p?
I don't have experience with the P1P but I do own the X1C. The X1C has better quality out of the box at higher speeds with no tuning required, but the build volume is smaller than the Troodon.
3d prints for a living yet all printers are at idle?
I have to block off time to film these. Printers running would destroy the audio.
How's abs?
Currently untested. I've only run PLA so far, but given that the supplied profile seems like an ABS profile I'm pretty confident it will print well.
@@ygk3d it's got injection molded parts?
Yes, all injection molded for the plastic parts on this printer.
WHY DO OTHERS THAT OWN MANY PRINTERS, SPEND TRIPPLE PRICE UPGRADING PRINTER TO MAKE IT A QUALITY PRINTER? I WANT “A” GOOD ONE OUT OF THE BOX AT ONE PRICE. ANSWER DIRECT PLZ.
Because 3D printing is a hobby for many people, not just a tool. If you’re looking for a great out-of-the-box printer, the Bambu Lab X1C is the closest to turn key you will find at a consumer price point. This Troodon 2.0 is a good option as well but will require a little more advanced knowledge or desire to learn and tinker.
Wow get your attitude checked
I have no attitude. Just that I never saw a product that no matter the brand, there are options galore beyond the high priced base unit. Now if it came with a high quality printer head, and laser cutter, change out cutting table of course. Then once remounted the software adequately read components and align appropriately, I would gladly but one.
As you well know, I am not knowledgeable in printing. (To expensive ). But I need special print containers always for high tech items, I need various materials laser cut to spec. Maybe in 2 or 3 more generations, there will be such a device.
Mean time those that print for a living can earn my business to benefit them as well.
Vorons are super cool
Agreed :)
I bought one of these printers after watching your video, and I absolutly hate it. Maybe you should make a video about slicer settings with RepCrap. It is built well, but it has some huge shortcomings that you don't mention, like how the stock macros are terrible, how the supplied slicer setting are terrible, how the bearing fails in the extruder, omg there is more but I'm being gentle. The truth is an Ender prints better than this stock. Sorry for the nasty comment.
Hey. Sorry to hear about your issues. It sounds like you may have gotten a lemon. I did mention in multiple videos, including this one, that the slicer settings are awful. Based on your experience, I would suggest switching the machine to Klipper and using the Voron slicer profiles.
@@ygk3d sell me what I need for Klipper, I don't have time to diy it...
Now that Orcaslicer supports this printer and is Klipper enabled this printer may need another look at.
Cheers.@@dragsterairide4459
Uhh sure it might have wifi but doesn't that esp take forever to send too? Can't imagine that being a value added feature...
No issues so far sending g-code and accessing the web interface. It is perfectly responsive. Certainly more convenient than SD card loading, but most printers these days have wireless connectivity so it's not a huge differentiator by any means.
We've seen upload speeds of around 1.56Mbytes/S with an STM32F4 based printer with an ESP32
How is the 2.4 Plastic Boat so rubbish xD
Definitely needs some further tuning. I generally get nice looking prints from my Voron but under the harsh light the boat did not look superb by any means.
Cable chains need flipped so they run flat.. just an opinion
Mhhh.. I didn't notice that. You may be right.
Comprehensive review would be nice, but kept within a 15-25min video
Of course you can clone an open source design.
Yeah, I misspoke on that. I had misinterpreted some information I had been given. The point I should have made is that this isn’t an identical copy, therefore not a true clone. But there are a lot of design elements they copied verbatim.
Those chains ... Aaargh.
the point about wifi as a value add dont make any sense just buy board that supports wifi and need for rpi as networking device i get the impression that u dont known what are u talking about
The Octopus, which is a popular controller board for use with the Voron, does not have WiFi capability built in. For this, you would need to add a Raspberry Pi which is an additional cost. So, yes, built in WiFi is a value added feature. The Pi is also used to run Klipper so you could argue that the WiFi bit is a moot point, but it’s really just a footnote in this video anyways.
simple analogy i want buy a car with Dual-zone climate control but instead i bougt one with one-zone climate control because is popular buying rpi just for wifi is just stupid if someone building a 3d printer from scratch can easily choose board that supports wifi
It's not just saving time. It's clearly not as good as a voron 2.4 or as modable..
Not worth it at all
not comprehensive by any means
This is just a first impressions video. I haven't stress tested this machine yet.