There are two things that seem to help the performance greatly in the 3.5L EcoBoost. First and most importantly, reducing the intake air temperature downstream of the intercooler, and second is changing out the thermostat to a lower temperature stat as you have shown. I would think the purpose of changing to a lower temperature thermostat is to have the engine block and heads run cooler which is a great idea for the EcoBoost as every degree of temperature you can remove from the block and heads during full throttle boost, will reduce the amount of predetonation and provide better performance. The EcoBoost 3.5L is notorious for reducing its HP by like 75+HP (OMG) when at operating temperature during Summer heat where the intercooler is struggling to reduce boosted compressed air intake temperatures entering the engine. The only thing I would add, is that although you changed the thermostat, the engine control unit will not turn on the fans until you get over 200F. Meaning, if you are stopped at a light, or in traffic, and you accelerate which is where boost is needed most often, the lower thermostat does not help you. However, the thermostat change will help you if you are cruising down the road at speed (even towing). To take full advantage, you need to reprogram your ECU to have the fans turn on at like 180F. Good video BTW, just wish you would have carried out the complete process including the difficult parts like getting to the bolts, watching the fluid leak out to show just how big a job it actually is, etc.
Should have mentioned that the jiggly valve lined up to that notch at 12 o'clock. If it's not lined up you will not be able to get the trapped air out of the engine and cause overheating.
Dealer said my 2018 Raptor didnt hava a thermostat !! I said alrighty sure it dont... Guess what !?!?! Around 100 hours of working on all kinds of stuff water pump , metal tube that goes thru the engine , calling Dearborn engineers etc... it was .... THE THERMOSTAT ! They figured that when the engine was hot but the radiator and hoses were cool. Smh.
My 2015 f150 is overheating it was good up till now but we had a cold spell hit and it just stared my antifreeze level is good oil level good air filter is good if I go over 100 km it gets hotter and under 90 it cools down
I used to be a firefighter and have seen dozens of animals die from antifreeze ingestion and guess what. It wasn’t in there dog bowls. It’s from them licking it and getting sick and in some cases die. How much antifreeze do you think it takes to poison a 5 lb cat? I’ll wait...
The temp is low , I just start up in the morning Im in Texas and its been cold mornings ... I've changed the pressure sensor switch on the high side and it still came on ..Ive been reading blogs and suggesting all kinds of things ,but I just noticed they come on when i turn on the defrost. Do you think it could be an a/c problem or coolant problem, just trying to pin it down , before I have to spend a lot of money at the shop THANKS
*******NOTE!!!!!!******..... Even the enclosed instructions in the new t-stat box from Reiche Performance says DO NOT USE the new enclosed O-ring on the 2017 & up 3.5L EcoBoost!!!!!..... You need to re-fit the OEM gasket that fits around the outermost ring of the t-stat & seals both sides (in to block & out towards hose).
So, I just tried following your vid with my 2018 F150 3.5 EB. I’m trying to replace with a 170 thermostat as well. I did great, up until I pulled the Y- tube off. Then...NOTHING looked like it was in the same spot as your vid. Did they change the location of the thermostat with the Gen 2 3.5 EB? Do you happen to know where it is?
From everything I'm reading the thermostat is in the same location, another easy step would be to just follow your radiator hose heading away from the radiator itself.
Kevon Maxwell Thanks for the quick reply! I will try that. I must admit that I DID attempt this after installing a new (bigger) intercooler. So I wasn’t in the best state of mind haha (let’s just say that I multiply the time they SAY by about 4...along with a few bandaids...lol)
Haven't heard of that problem. What is the coolant temp on the vehicle??? Technically with a lower temp thermostat the fans shouldn't come on as much. Fans from the factory usually come on around 205 degrees on your coolant temp .
Did you happen to record _around town_ temps before changing the t-stat? I didn't have any concerns until I had the VCT repair done at the dealer. Now I'm running 225 around town which is insane. I'll get the digits and hit 236 holding 70 over the overpass. It seems like mine is now running +20* hotter. It feels like a restricted flow, but I have no idea how to verify that.
I actually did data log my temps . In Florida heat I would avg around 205 to 215 degrees. Once I changed the thermostat my temps avg 175 to 187 . 226 and above is not beneficial at all with our trucks. Anything over 200 degrees and your truck will be pulling timing and diminishing performance. I would re bleed your system and if that doesnt fix the issue I would strongly suggest the 170 thermostat
@@maxspeedsti001 thanks for the tips. What really upsets me is I didn't have this issue until they did the repair. If it is a restriction, then the cooler tstat probably won't help. Is a simple drain and fill enough or do I need to vac it out?
So I replaced water pump and thermostat and im trying to fill up the system with coolant but I top off the reservoir with coolant in the first attempt to fill up the system with antifreeze but coolant doesn't want to go down it gets to the point that the truck is overheating with the coolant level still at the Max. Does anyone know what that could be?
If you didn’t burp the system or bleed it of air, you might have a block from an air pocket. I think that the dealer actually pressurizes the system to get the air out.
So my 2016 f150 started to overheat. It stalled on me, I let it cool then limped home on what seemed like 3 cylinders. I thought it was the thermostat but next morning i started it and it was still reading that it was overheating after sitting for 12 hours. So now I am guessing sensor not thermostat. Any thoughts?
@@weegie2818 yes i did. It was the cht sensor. A $30 part but a bitch to replace. The sensor is telling the computer its overheating when it is not. The truck will run at failsafe mode on 4 cylinders but eventually completely shut down. If you can get the truck home you can do the job. You have to take off the front passenger side tire and the inner plastic fender liner. The sensor is on the back of the engine block. You can't see it, you have to do it all by feel. There are a couple of wires there, it is the thinner one covered completely in foil. Use your thumb to lift the tab on the wire cap to pull it off sensor. You need a deep 19 mm socket, its awkward to get on but you can do it. After that its easy. But you will need a code reader to cancel out the code. I think it was code 1289 on the reader
You paid $59 for the thermostat???? You got ripped off! They must have seen you coming. The highest price I have ever seen for the thermostat is just over $20 but they generally go for $9 to $12 or $13. How in the world did you even find a thermostat for that high price. I can't help but get the feeling you don't work on cars too much despite your claim for experience in the field if you paid that much for a thermonstat. I can't imagine any knowledgable mechanic paying that much for a thermostat. You probably shouldn't have mentioned it becuase it makes you come across as a sucker. Amazing! When you said that, I thought, "Holy crap! Have thermostats suddenly skyrocketed in price. So I checked sources and I can't find a thermostat for the 3.5L Ecoboost (which I have too) anywhere near $59. You better find a new parts source. By the way, Dex-Cool is NOT the best coolant for the Ecoboost - or just about any engine for that matter. People in the industry who used it previously have switched to better coolants. An excellent one for the Ecoboost is Zerex G-05. You may or may not know it but the Ecoboost engine is an open deck design. That makes it susceptible to damage caused by cavitation and Zerex G-05 is specifically formulated to prevent cavitation damage. And, the Ecoboost and just about every new engine should definitely use orange coolant (or red or purple). It's not a option as you seem to imply. It's a must.
If only listened as much as you talked. He swapped the stock thermostat for a lower-temp performance (reische 170 degree). You find me a performance thermostat for $9 and I'll eat my hat.
Bob Miller youre kinda a dick! this was a good video and like others stated this isnt a cheap garbage thermostat, its a 170° performance t stat. and besides even if he did get screwed and doesnt know what hes doing maybe dont be a dick. Could easily say hey brother checl out these other products and prices. Youre a dick. excellent video Kevon Maxwell
First off... you’re just an ass. Second, I DEFY you to show me where to find an aftermarket performance thermostat for $10! I’ll wait... and wait... and wait... while you try to find one. Oh and lastly, you’re an ass! Like others have said... great vid! Thanks for taking the time to post, Kevon!
Thermostat aside, I am astounded at the casual manner that dexcool coolant was used on an ecoboost. That water pump is internal... buried under the timing cover. It's a $1,200 job to change one out, and when that 2nd gasket on it leaks, it leaks into the motor oil. I think it's a wise move to use whatever Ford tells you to use.
I paid about $22 for an exact OEM Motorcraft (the same one that came on the truck new) from Rock Auto. It's amazing that a certified techician would not know that the price he paid is outrageous. Aftermarket thermostats for this engine go for as low as less than $7.
Jesus christ. People please read . The thermostat I used was a 170 which is not OEM . The company I used charged what they charged. My point was not to go OEM
There are two things that seem to help the performance greatly in the 3.5L EcoBoost. First and most importantly, reducing the intake air temperature downstream of the intercooler, and second is changing out the thermostat to a lower temperature stat as you have shown. I would think the purpose of changing to a lower temperature thermostat is to have the engine block and heads run cooler which is a great idea for the EcoBoost as every degree of temperature you can remove from the block and heads during full throttle boost, will reduce the amount of predetonation and provide better performance. The EcoBoost 3.5L is notorious for reducing its HP by like 75+HP (OMG) when at operating temperature during Summer heat where the intercooler is struggling to reduce boosted compressed air intake temperatures entering the engine. The only thing I would add, is that although you changed the thermostat, the engine control unit will not turn on the fans until you get over 200F. Meaning, if you are stopped at a light, or in traffic, and you accelerate which is where boost is needed most often, the lower thermostat does not help you. However, the thermostat change will help you if you are cruising down the road at speed (even towing). To take full advantage, you need to reprogram your ECU to have the fans turn on at like 180F. Good video BTW, just wish you would have carried out the complete process including the difficult parts like getting to the bolts, watching the fluid leak out to show just how big a job it actually is, etc.
Wow. This is a terrible video for actually showing how to actually change the thermostat.
Should have mentioned that the jiggly valve lined up to that notch at 12 o'clock. If it's not lined up you will not be able to get the trapped air out of the engine and cause overheating.
Every thread ive read is to use oem motorcraft thermostat, do not use aftermarket thermostats,these 3.5 dont like them,they dont perform same as oem
This video is mis leading,,,, its better to watch a video of this being done not one that just tells you …
There's a little hole in the thermostat you failed to align to 12 o clock 😂
Dealer said my 2018 Raptor didnt hava a thermostat !! I said alrighty sure it dont... Guess what !?!?! Around 100 hours of working on all kinds of stuff water pump , metal tube that goes thru the engine , calling Dearborn engineers etc... it was .... THE THERMOSTAT ! They figured that when the engine was hot but the radiator and hoses were cool. Smh.
My 2015 f150 is overheating it was good up till now but we had a cold spell hit and it just stared my antifreeze level is good oil level good air filter is good if I go over 100 km it gets hotter and under 90 it cools down
When it gets hot get under it in the dark and check to see if your cats are glowing
Same case to me i did a coolant flush it helped a bit but still go overheat on highway run i will have to change the thermostat and see if it helps
Just what i was looking for!! Awsome video, thank you so much!!!!!
Can you top off the fluid in the closed systems?
Its definitely different on the 17+ gen2 motor, cuz u cannottt find it, looking in the exacttt same spot in this video and its not there
2017 Ecoboost housing is different from the one shown.
Great how to. For the sake of living things in your area, don’t dump 1/2 gallon of coolant in the grass.
I’ll pass, these fire ants need to gooooooooo.
Not to mention stray cats and dogs will lick the ground cause it’s sweet and they will die
kay cee They’re not gonna die by licking dirt with dried coolant on it. If you put coolant in their dog bowl, then yeah.
I used to be a firefighter and have seen dozens of animals die from antifreeze ingestion and guess what. It wasn’t in there dog bowls. It’s from them licking it and getting sick and in some cases die. How much antifreeze do you think it takes to poison a 5 lb cat? I’ll wait...
@@jamesmanson2152 👆
Thanks for quick help and tools I will need. Keepem coming, good video.
Thank you for this video. Liked dropped
Chief radiator best in Dallas TX
I have a question for you I have a 2012 Ford F1 50 eco-boost 3.5 L V6 is the platinum edition is the thermostat the same way as your new truck
Exactly the same . The location of the thermostat never changed.
How did you bleed the coolant system to remove all the air?
Simply keep the radiator cap off and start the vehicle. Once the thermostat opens up the coolant level will drop and you'll need to top it off .
so i grabbed a 655-160 thermostat off amazon would that be ok vs using a 170?? TIA
The temp is low , I just start up in the morning Im in Texas and its been cold mornings ... I've changed the pressure sensor switch on the high side and it still came on ..Ive been reading blogs and suggesting all kinds of things ,but I just noticed they come on when i turn on the defrost. Do you think it could be an a/c problem or coolant problem, just trying to pin it down , before I have to spend a lot of money at the shop
THANKS
Rick Sosa hey man what did ever find out? I’m dealing with the same issue.
*******NOTE!!!!!!******..... Even the enclosed instructions in the new t-stat box from Reiche Performance says DO NOT USE the new enclosed O-ring on the 2017 & up 3.5L EcoBoost!!!!!..... You need to re-fit the OEM gasket that fits around the outermost ring of the t-stat & seals both sides (in to block & out towards hose).
Whats the transmission temps like after the install ? Did it decrease car became smoother?
So, I just tried following your vid with my 2018 F150 3.5 EB. I’m trying to replace with a 170 thermostat as well. I did great, up until I pulled the Y- tube off. Then...NOTHING looked like it was in the same spot as your vid. Did they change the location of the thermostat with the Gen 2 3.5 EB? Do you happen to know where it is?
From everything I'm reading the thermostat is in the same location, another easy step would be to just follow your radiator hose heading away from the radiator itself.
Kevon Maxwell Thanks for the quick reply! I will try that. I must admit that I DID attempt this after installing a new (bigger) intercooler. So I wasn’t in the best state of mind haha (let’s just say that I multiply the time they SAY by about 4...along with a few bandaids...lol)
great info, that was easy
Did you use the same gasket/o ring for the thermostat housing? I need help with the part number since mines doesn’t come with the o ring
Did you end up finding it? I’m needing to replace mine soon too
How many radiator vent actuators are in a 2015 F150 turbo 3.5 are there and how to locate? Thx in advance
Goog Job Brother
Go with yellow coolant, not orange. P-OAT
Is it better to set the thermostat with less threshold temperature for keeping the engine at less working temperature? If yes, how to do that?
There are two different types of housings for the thermostat in a f150 3.5 Ecoboost.
How do you know that it needs a new termosthat?
Have you had or heard of the fans staying on high speed even just after a few minutes after start up
Haven't heard of that problem. What is the coolant temp on the vehicle??? Technically with a lower temp thermostat the fans shouldn't come on as much. Fans from the factory usually come on around 205 degrees on your coolant temp .
Low A/C refrigerant level can cause this.
How did you get the coolant temperature to show digits ?
Forscan unlocks and allows features like this
Where do I buy I thermostat like the one you installed?
Did you happen to record _around town_ temps before changing the t-stat? I didn't have any concerns until I had the VCT repair done at the dealer. Now I'm running 225 around town which is insane. I'll get the digits and hit 236 holding 70 over the overpass. It seems like mine is now running +20* hotter. It feels like a restricted flow, but I have no idea how to verify that.
I actually did data log my temps . In Florida heat I would avg around 205 to 215 degrees. Once I changed the thermostat my temps avg 175 to 187 . 226 and above is not beneficial at all with our trucks. Anything over 200 degrees and your truck will be pulling timing and diminishing performance. I would re bleed your system and if that doesnt fix the issue I would strongly suggest the 170 thermostat
@@maxspeedsti001 thanks for the tips. What really upsets me is I didn't have this issue until they did the repair. If it is a restriction, then the cooler tstat probably won't help. Is a simple drain and fill enough or do I need to vac it out?
What’s is the stock or oem thermostat for 2016 Ford F-150? Is it 190degrees?
Be sure to use Motorcraft coolant. Mixing coolants in modern engines is an unnecessary risk.
Really good explanation. Thank you
Very helpful
We’re should your coolant level be ?
How do you know you need a thermostat?
So I replaced water pump and thermostat and im trying to fill up the system with coolant but I top off the reservoir with coolant in the first attempt to fill up the system with antifreeze but coolant doesn't want to go down it gets to the point that the truck is overheating with the coolant level still at the Max. Does anyone know what that could be?
If you didn’t burp the system or bleed it of air, you might have a block from an air pocket. I think that the dealer actually pressurizes the system to get the air out.
Um....um.....um........um um um um um um
That far right bolt hard to get to
How did you get the temperature number to show up on the dash. I have a 2016 platinum and it doesn’t have it
Forscan
Shows the number (on our 2017 Platinum) at I think 225F or above, below that it shows only with Forscan.
My 2015 f150 platinum the number were showing on the dash, also gallons used . In my 2020 limited they don't show.
How do you get temp to read at all times above temp gauge. Mine is only coming on at 226 and above.
Download FORDSCAN and it will unlock all type of hidden features including displaying temp above coolant gauge all the time
Great video !!
So my 2016 f150 started to overheat. It stalled on me, I let it cool then limped home on what seemed like 3 cylinders. I thought it was the thermostat but next morning i started it and it was still reading that it was overheating after sitting for 12 hours. So now I am guessing sensor not thermostat. Any thoughts?
Did you bleed the system after replacing the thermostat? Also what codes were you throwing?
I never changed it. I do not have a code reader
@@joelcote4651 mine just started doing this. 4 years old. Did you figure it out?
@@weegie2818 yes i did. It was the cht sensor. A $30 part but a bitch to replace. The sensor is telling the computer its overheating when it is not. The truck will run at failsafe mode on 4 cylinders but eventually completely shut down. If you can get the truck home you can do the job. You have to take off the front passenger side tire and the inner plastic fender liner. The sensor is on the back of the engine block. You can't see it, you have to do it all by feel. There are a couple of wires there, it is the thinner one covered completely in foil. Use your thumb to lift the tab on the wire cap to pull it off sensor. You need a deep 19 mm socket, its awkward to get on but you can do it. After that its easy. But you will need a code reader to cancel out the code. I think it was code 1289 on the reader
@@weegie2818 google the location so you know where it is cause like I said you can't see it
“Do it in the grass, or get a pan” is the best line.
Not in california, huge fine
@@cessealbeach f. U. Ck. California
You paid $59 for the thermostat???? You got ripped off! They must have seen you coming. The highest price I have ever seen for the thermostat is just over $20 but they generally go for $9 to $12 or $13. How in the world did you even find a thermostat for that high price. I can't help but get the feeling you don't work on cars too much despite your claim for experience in the field if you paid that much for a thermonstat. I can't imagine any knowledgable mechanic paying that much for a thermostat. You probably shouldn't have mentioned it becuase it makes you come across as a sucker. Amazing! When you said that, I thought, "Holy crap! Have thermostats suddenly skyrocketed in price. So I checked sources and I can't find a thermostat for the 3.5L Ecoboost (which I have too) anywhere near $59. You better find a new parts source.
By the way, Dex-Cool is NOT the best coolant for the Ecoboost - or just about any engine for that matter. People in the industry who used it previously have switched to better coolants. An excellent one for the Ecoboost is Zerex G-05. You may or may not know it but the Ecoboost engine is an open deck design. That makes it susceptible to damage caused by cavitation and Zerex G-05 is specifically formulated to prevent cavitation damage. And, the Ecoboost and just about every new engine should definitely use orange coolant (or red or purple). It's not a option as you seem to imply. It's a must.
If only listened as much as you talked. He swapped the stock thermostat for a lower-temp performance (reische 170 degree). You find me a performance thermostat for $9 and I'll eat my hat.
This is a performance product. This isn't the standard OEM thermostat.
Bob Miller youre kinda a dick! this was a good video and like others stated this isnt a cheap garbage thermostat, its a 170° performance t stat. and besides even if he did get screwed and doesnt know what hes doing maybe dont be a dick. Could easily say hey brother checl out these other products and prices. Youre a dick. excellent video Kevon Maxwell
First off... you’re just an ass. Second, I DEFY you to show me where to find an aftermarket performance thermostat for $10! I’ll wait... and wait... and wait... while you try to find one. Oh and lastly, you’re an ass! Like others have said... great vid! Thanks for taking the time to post, Kevon!
Thermostat aside, I am astounded at the casual manner that dexcool coolant was used on an ecoboost. That water pump is internal... buried under the timing cover. It's a $1,200 job to change one out, and when that 2nd gasket on it leaks, it leaks into the motor oil. I think it's a wise move to use whatever Ford tells you to use.
I paid about $22 for an exact OEM Motorcraft (the same one that came on the truck new) from Rock Auto. It's amazing that a certified techician would not know that the price he paid is outrageous. Aftermarket thermostats for this engine go for as low as less than $7.
Jesus christ. People please read . The thermostat I used was a 170 which is not OEM . The company I used charged what they charged. My point was not to go OEM
Kevon Maxwell RUclips is full of stupid assholes like that guy! They comment on shit they're too stupid to even understand.