CARBURETOR Repair on Older BRIGGS & STRATTON 3.5HP Engine Part 2 of 2
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- Опубликовано: 14 апр 2010
- Reinstalling the carburetor and diaphragm. The final setting on Carb was 1 3/4 turn out.This is the same engine on the older lawnmowers with a Briggs & Stratton motor without a primer. Visit my channel for more repair videos. ruclips.net/user/donyboy73...
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I have quite a few of these style Briggs & Stratton engines. I worked 13 years as a cemetery caretaker. Anyway, one thing worth mentioning, that you didn't , is warpage. Specifically, the gas tank top and the carb base. I had on more than one occasion warpage on these parts. One mower was so bad it still ran with the mixture screw turned all the way in. Check with a good straight edge ( I have a Snap On Professional straight edge) . If warped, use a FLAT stone on the gas tank till all shiny. On the carb, take out the plastic pick up tubes and lay a very fine sandpaper on a FLAT surface and rub the carb till all shiny . This should take care of any warpage problem.
Anyway, just my 2 cents worth.
Thank you very much - after 10 years this video enabled me to confidently disassemble, clean and put back together the carb on our ancient lawnmower. Now it works as new. Those intake meshes were clogged on mine.
I'm working on an engine like this, from a 1985 Murray 20" mower. It ran great in 2015, but was submerged completely in a 2016 flood. Carb is similar, but not exactly the same as yours, only one pickup tube into the tank, same thermostat controlled choke. I'm waiting on a diaphragm because the choke rod came off from corrosion of where it meets the diaphragm. Drained water from crankcase after 4 years, filled with charcoal lighter and mixed it up. Will drain and fill with transmission fluid and run it until warmed up, then drain and fill with oil. It'll be fine. ;)
I have other videos on my channel of a flathead 5hp that went through the same, and a Craftsman chainsaw I got running again. I will add more as I go through all the stuff sitting around here since the flood. Lockdown gave the time to tinker.
Video available of it running now. Got the carb diaphragm, just need to install it and an air filter. Ready to go. A customer is bringing me the same thing from 96, it has sentimental value to them.
Yeah this video really helped with my Briggs/Stratton engine that wouldn't start. Took me awhile to go through it all, but I never would have even attempted without this video. Three pulls of the cord and it started, and the front lawn was mowed before dark. Thanks for the detailed instructions!!
I just want to thank you for all your videos,I work and try to restore older machines and you usually cover them. Thanks again Donyboy.
+Les Hall you're welcome, have a good evening
Your an excellent small engine and equipment mechanic, I learn something new everytime I watch your videos! Thanks for all the great tutorials!
Great videos. I love the way you ffwd through the slow parts and didn't put any BS in there. Perfectly done. Great step by step instructions. Thank You very much and keep the videos coming.
Thank you never knew that trick with air filter bolt in the carb. Glad you video old tiller I have a similar one but, our carb has no auto choke. A harder time to find a video for old Briggs.
Awesome vids. I was about to throw my old girl out. She was running rough and blowing so much smoke I couldn't see 2 feet ahead of me! I'd pulled the carby apart before with limited success, but after following your instructions she just purrs and not even the slightest puff of smoke. My decrepit old mower is now running like she just came out of the factory. Thanks for the excellent videos!
My Briggs & Stratton Magnetron 3.5 HP has the same carby as this one and now I will try to revive it based on your tutorial. Thank you very much.
Holy cow! I have been having trouble with getting these to stay adjusted or idle right and everyone of them have had the spring on the bottom side when I took them apart. No wonder, thanks dony! Can't wait to get these opened up and corrected to see if I can get them right again
Thanks, I just bought a non-working '68 toro lawnmower with the same motor for $5. After cleaning the points I now have spark. Next the carb. This video is exactly what I need for that.
I just repaired the neigbours like this one, put in a new diaphram and lots of cleaning . Thanks for your video really helped me out. Those have small holes in them to clean.
I love the sound of those old flatheads running, takes me back to my youth!
i watched yur vid because ironically enuf im working on the same tiller..ran like a bat outa hell till it warmed up ..now i know the choke is sticking.. thanx tons!!!
Great vid thanks for the help, am going to try this on my unit. Also that little engine runs lovely after you fixed it, sounds perfect. Nice work
Very good video. Better than most. Nice close ups and good narration.
Great Video. Lots of detail and easy to follow instructions. You helped me diagnose my choke problem.
Thanks for the videos , it has saved me money and got the satisfaction of repairing myself
Like seeing an old family movie compared to your current ones. Still very useful as I need to rebuild the carb on a 30 year old 3HP leaf blower. Thanks, fingers crossed.
You did a great job explaining that carby service. Well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video on the subject. I will be going back to this video when i fix my mower. I believe my mower has the same problem. Thks for posting.
Thank you, i showed this to my dad and it helped him a lot :)
Followed your guide. The mower works great now!
Excellent video. I followed it step by step and got my lawn mower working again. Many thanks for your time and greetings from England..
you're welcome, greetings from Canada
You're a natural. Big thanks from Melbourne Australia
+youtitta greetings from Canada
The other Victoria...
The spring and the cap, :D thank you for showing where it goes! Great tutorial thank God for RUclips and Donyboy73...
Thanks for the video as it is hard to find videos of these older carbs without the primer bulb. I watched your video to find out where the spring and cap go. My spring and cap had been placed in the top of the tank underneath the diaphragm, but you mentioned that the spring and cap should have been installed in the carb above the diaphragm. Thanks!!
I pulled mine apart and found the same thing
That's awesome. I just bought more or less the exact same tiller but with the B&S 3hp engine. It all needs a good clean out but now I think I know how. Thanks!
These old 8X and 9X engines were so tough. Many of them outlasted the equipment they were bolted to. Briggs learned their lesson, and cheapened them little by little.
An excellent video. Now I know what to do with my mom's B&S. Thank you again Dony.
Nicely done. Well explained. And even thought the video is 6 years old the camera work is solid.
+funkrusher thanks, I upgraded to HD shortly after this video
@@donyboy73 ii xx iii xx o i ok ifi iii os p ii looks good
@@donyboy73 ii I od
That old tiller is hitting a lick, good job.
I have a 1980s snapper self propelled 3.5 hp that would not start. Thanks to your video it now runs like new. Starts on the 1st pull!
Great video donyboy73! Keep em coming!
You're the man donyboy!! I put that darn spring in backwards. Thanks a bunch!
Darn... I was working on a 4hp tiller from 1964 and the screen on both were extremely blocked and I was only able to get them partially cleaned... It's running but seems to be real finicky with the throttle lever... Thanks for getting back to me!! Though its not just exactly perfect it did till the garden... Engine seemed to wanna die if I leaned it back to far while using it. Thanks again!
There you are, 13 years later, saving my life
hi thanks for the video , does the auto choke do away with the need for a primer valve ? I think I may have put the auto diaphragm spring in crooked and still add petrol to the filter to prime, however it's amazing how much better the mower runs after doing what you have shown, just need to check the butter fly valve and correct the spring if needed. what does the other diaphragm do please.
Great videos! Staight to the point. I got my lawmower working with this vid. Thanx!
OK, I got it running. It wasn't the same exact one. It only had one of those plastic tubes with the screen. My screen tube was plugged and the gas was old. Thank you again.
Very descriptive video, I found it extremely helpful. Thanks!! :)
Very well detailed and cut video. Extremely useful.
excellent thank you so much for a well edited clear video.
Wonderful videos, very informative!
I have a tiller very similar to this one with the same engine. I need to change oil and clean the carburetor, but I don't see a drain plug for the oil. Is there one on these models?
Very Nice job of explaining this! Thank you very much!
Donny I just replaced the carb gasket and noticed when taking the carb apart that the larger diameter spring was located in the gas tank hole and not in the carb hole. I put it back as I found it and the engine works great. Is it possible that the spring actually belongs in the tank hole ?
thanks..very helpful..these old machines are too good to get rid of..
How old would you say this engine is?
I have two of these engines. One on my engine reel mower and the other I made use of to build my chipper. As I remember the service manual states for carb adjustments yo be done with two thirds tankful is gas.
Fantastic video, very informative, I've got the same motor/carby, just replaced the jet valve, but I still can't get it to start without pouring fuel down the carby throat,even then it only runs for 20 seconds and dies, would having the spring/diaphragm in the wrong order stop it from running? bearing in mind it was in the wrong order for 35 years and ran ok!
I have this same exact tiller. Just rebuilt the carb and replaced the diaphragm. Now the carb will not pull fuel into the combustion chamber. Oring is good in the manifold and the carb is assembled properly. Checked to make sure all the ports and jets are free of dirt or blockages...I am lost. I can pour fuel into the arb and it will run great, but will not pull fuel from the tank on its own. Any help would be greatly appreciated . Thanks
Do you recall the model number of that Viking tiller. I have the same one and need to see if I can find parts.
Thanks. Followed along... now working.
I have a 1972 Snapper with a 3.5hp Briggs. I just converted to electronic ignition and now has spark. I rebuilt the carb with a new diaphragm. I ordered a governor spring and new throttle cable. But for the time being I'm just using my hand to adjust throttle. But man this thing is a bear to get started. I have to keep the choke flap open with a screw driver, and give it a shot of either. Then it will sputter and I have to mess with the throttle to keep it running, then its fine after that and it runs good.
I tried adjusting the screw on the side and got it to idle good and everything. THen I shut it off and then bango, wont start. Got to pull a million times, prop open the choke again and then it will fire.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Your videos were great. I was left with a situation though that I hope you can help me with. The mower would only run with the butterfly wide open until I cleaned the carb (with your video). Then it started second pull and mowed very tall grass like a champ. Even had to restart it twice (pilot error, not the mower). Worked great. Then I took a 10 minute break. It hasnt tried to start since? Do you know what's wrong? Clean everything. Tank, carb etc... Fresh gas. Thanks in advance and thanks for the video!
I plan on cleaning this same design carb. when I get back from Church in the morning. It's on my B&S Speed Clean pressure washer that I've had for about 7 years! 3.75 hp I think. Will be the 1st time I've had to do Anything to the engine. It runs pretty good under a load, but when it's at full throttle and NOT under a load the engine surges up and down Very badly. It's almost wanting to die out! Been a real dependable pressure washer, but I've kept the maintenance up too. I love B&S!!
Hi Donyboy73. Sorry to bug you agian, but am rebuilding the same carb. I can't seem to get the choke shaft to stay in the choke plate. You seem to have just popped it in and it stayed? I have tried putting the spring under tension before tightening the screws but it still pops out of the choke plate when it open the choke. Any suggestions?
I have a motor just like this! Sitting since 1986 and just placed on a mower! Has spark, CJ8 plug. Will run some on EITHER but quits VERY HARD TO pull over! Both valves at .008" Cleaned tank and carb and used NEW 90 non ethanol,old Gas turned to black coffee. Diaphram seems to be ok. Any ideas on the HARD to pull? Also pulled flywheel and set points to .020" with light sanding. Key is good on flywheel. Motor was on a ROTO-TILLER identical to yours!! Running when we moved in 1986! I am at a loss on this one!! Any help or ideas ? Thanks
@donyboy73
good thing he mentioned that. I have a question for you, master. how can I convert my ordinary 95902 lawn-mower engine to run without a blade? do I have to convert to iron flywheel? what else then? new crank?
thanks a lot!
Awsome job donyboy73. Do you still have that roto tiller?
I have one that has two wires connected to a arrow shaped item on the outside. Do you know what this is?
Very thorough, thanks.
Great video! thanks so much. I have an old snapper mower with this carb & choke setup... It's been giving me a rough time. bought a diaphragm & working on it tomorrow. I have learned a lot from your videos. Great job & keep up the good work! And by the way how is your wife doing?
Just wondering what holds the spring from falling off before you install the diaphragm to the fuel tank.Rely enjoyed watching .
I've this same tiller with an engine that isn't producing a spark. I've checked the magneto and it's good. The kill switch wiring doesn't look happy, though I'm somewhat a newb about engine repair. Anyway, would you happen to have a repair manual for this puppy? And by puppy I mean the engine because you can't actually repair a puppy, yet you can fix one.
Donny, I have a similar carb to the one in the video, it starts and runs fine but when I put the throttle lever in the stop position it just carries on running on tick over, any suggestions what the defect might be, cheers
Thank you, my vintage Snapper mower was new in 1973 when I purchased it. Your 3.5 hp motor looks very similar to it. I can't part with it.
Thank you my dude. You old movies are also helping people every day.
I just bought a walk behind sickle mower with a old briggs 3,5 (92902).
Mine starte beautifully but only ran a few seconds before stopping.
One of the filter screens were completely clogged.
Thanks to your video I was able to go in there knowing what to expect.
Any recommendations where to buy a carb kit with diaphragm? Mine is probably 20-30 years old
check out www.discountonlineparts.com
brilliant video. thanks so much. I have a similar B&S engine, and the fuel uptake tube is clogged, casnot get it cleaned. . I think I need to take it off to clean it, but dont break it or the brass tube it is attached to. Mine is longer than the one in your video, the plastic part with the screen slides on to a brass tube about 3 inches long. Does it screw off, or is it just a press fit? How much effort do I need to apply to get it off? Can you suggest any secrets for removing it? thnx
1.5 turns out from seated correct on these or are they different
Nice job...thanks for the vid.
Hi, how are you? I consult you about what type of oil does this engine have? Thank you. Greetings from Argentina.
That video helped me, thumps up.
great someone who knows what theyre doing! The rod mentioned at 3.18 mins how long is it? were some made with a spring instead of the rod?
@seasonedtoker no, just find a cast iron flywheel if u can find one!
Are the little screens on the tubes replaceable?
Thank you for these two videos. You made this look pretty much easy. So, I successfully did this repair on an old mower engine that's never run right. Works much better now.
One question. What gloves are you using? The carb cleaner did a number on the supposedly chem resistant gloves I was wearing.
i have a Briggs selfpropelle 3.5 and it is very hard to change the oil because the nut is inside the cover blade pleases tell me how. i try but i can,t get this out.
why do you make everything look so easy!
A great couple of videos. I'm refurbishing a 3.5HP Briggs and Stratton on a Billy Goat lawn vacuum and this has been a great help. By the way, can you use carb cleaner on the fuel tank? The bottom is full of dried muck from evaporated gas.
@CCSinventions thank you...
@Zoltan2012AD i would have to see it but i imagine if it came like that it should work
Thanks a lot. I didn't remember where that spring belongs. (that's the reason why i came to see this video)
I can only remove the head x replaced the rings?
you have something to suggest, even video?
thanks
you're welcome Alan
nevermind, just saw it on your second video! Thanks so much!!
@donyboy73 The H screw is it the screw that control the gas for air and fuel mixture or the idle screw?
Hi..I have watched your video's and learned quite a bit..the problem I'm have now is the governor..how do i adjust the governor..thanks
Absoluty a fantastic video on this old B&S 3.5 er ! I have the same carb on my 3.5 B&S mower that I got this year for free ! It runs sort of ! It bogs down under load, or quits ! I suspect it's the governor, how to you fix/adjust this ? HELP !
Many thanks, Ted
Badass job!! Brother u most likely r a mechanic if not you should be get that running
@donyboy73 do I need to change the whole crankshaft because of that?
would you have a belt diagram for this?
I didn't take the small cover off where the jet is either. Could that be blocked?
I also noticed there's just one spring and one linkage, how can I tell if they're working correctly and in the right place?
I finally had to remove the little screen filter in order to clean the fuel dip tube. Is there a good way to cobble together a filter? I am thinking of wrapping a few layers of panty hose around the tip and tying with SS wire. i tested panty hose in a cup of gas and it didnt melt over night. any other better ideas? thnx so much
try adjusting the screw at the back of carb, or replace the diaphragm, it could also be low in compression
@grf01000 there is usually a terminal by the carb linkages with a wire going to it so that when u pull throttle back it shuts it off, it's under the air filter near where the cable attaches
Where can you get new diaphragm for this engine? Need one. Thanks.
very big help thank you
Hey dony my Briggs and Stratton 4hp motor suddenly started surging I cleaned the carb but it only helped for a little while I changed the spark plug too but It Dident help so what do you think I should do