Not captured on this video: The drag link had to be shortened/cut to flip it and put it on top of the steering knuckle. Dustin had to cut approx 0.50" off one end.
We’ve been away to one place or another since the work was done and I haven’t driven it on the freeway yet. The steering has less play and overall feels tighter now - when driving on surface streets.
@@tcsadventures Every upgrade adds up! The Borgeson shaft and the M.O.R.E. steering box bracket made a significant difference in the way my jeep handles bump steer. I will make the jump to the tie rods that you did next. 😉
Bought a '85 PO says, "drives like old Jeep". Well he had lift shackles on the front that took out ALL the Castor out so it would not go straight and if you let go of the wheel, into the ditch. Next; steering box bolts loose so was wobbling all over with huge slack. Added Castor wedges, cut down the front shackles, tightened the box. Holds straight and true and tight.
i have done basicly the same on the front. but... used chevy 1/2 ton tie rods, stock pit-man arm retapered for a chevy 1/2 ton tie's. the tie rod ends on the "C's" were re-tapered from the top down. with a 4-1/2 in soft ride my drag link is level. but you must use a "more" or other heavy duty steering box mount, dump the ceep plate steel stuff. and a cross frame bar to support the snout on the steering gear box. and you need longer heaver duty spring shackles. i junked my anti sway bad. and do not even run rear shocks, (kept breaking off the lower mounts on rocks). if you have the death wobble. get a printout what your caster/camber is now. then buy ONLY machined shims (NOT THE CAST JUNK) of the correct angle bolt between the axle pads and springs. --forget the company but from a place off sunrise in rancho crodova i believe on moneier circle.--close to the wrecking yards.-- DO NOT trust those bolt on cleaves mounts. as bolts stretch and snap very easily. trust only frame ext mounts. but your on your way.
Very cool jeep! I have a 2015 that is mostly Rubicon Express but after replacing the front and rear track bars that wore out prematurely I am now a huge Synergy fan. I was having bad bump steer and the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE and the fix was a track bar brace from Synergy. Now my jeep with a 3.5 lift and 35 tires handles like my Jetta!
Don’t think the CJ will ever handle like a Jetta no matter what I do lol! But it is handling better now. I have a 2016 Rubicon and luckily no Death Wobble or bad bump steer (knock on wood). Thanks for watching and commenting - hope you like some of my other videos too!
@@tcsadventures Man, if you can get a CJ to handle like a Jetta, sell that fix! hahaha! To solve the bump steer and death wobble on my 2015 Wrangler I changed tie rods, track bar, ball joints and dampener and did not solve. And I balanced and rotated tires twice. Then I found the track bar bracket from Synergy and that was the fix. It was hard for me to accept that the frame was flexing enough to cause the problem. If you have any issues on your 2016 check it out :)
I just came across this video and wanna say thanks! I have a beautiful 83 CJ-7 as my "summer car" but no one up here in the northeast knows how to solve the bump steer issue. Will be ordering those parts now and installing this spring.
My steering definitely improved with the steering upgrades, but make no mistake it still drives like an old Jeep. With the upgrades we took off the Drop Pitman arm, because he believes it creates other problems. I know many would argue you need it. We also got rid of the Rough Country springs. They were too stiff and gave me a lift over 5”. The new Superlift and shackles have helped with handling too. Good luck with your project and let me know how it turns out!
Just happened across this video. Nice jeep! I have a 1980 CJ7 hard top Laredo I purchased in November 1979. I’ve don a little work to it but tried to keep most of it original. I did put a Chevy 350 in it in 93 and put a wild country lift on it in about 06 or 07. Wish I knew how to send pictures. Enjoyed the video. Thanks
Wow, you’re the original owner?! I have a million questions… what did you pay for it new? How many of the 42 years was it a daily driver? You got rid of the original engine pretty early - how many miles did it have on it? Do you have original paint? You can send me some pics to tcadventures2@gmail.com
My '05 TJ Rocky Mtn needed steering / handling work too. Recently installed the Rock Jock drag link/tie rod combo replacing that old stock toothpick setup. Also installed Old Man Emu coils, Fox Shox 2.0's, Freedom Off Road front lower control arms and track bar. Went to "upgrade" the steering stabilizer with the Falcon. That thing was horrible for my TJ. A good thing came out of it though. I put the HD Monroe steering stabilizer back on with the supplied Falcon high mount bracket and wow, does this thing handle better now. The steering stabilizer is perfectly parallel to the ground. But I still have a little steering slop. Many have said they have removed the steering box bolt and tightened it to 185ft lbs and that has made a big difference. Like all other components, you have to torque them down every so often. Great video as always, that is one cool CJ-7! 😎
@@tcsadventures Yeah these older Jeeps are needy but so are most vehicles. And honestly, I couldn't imagine driving anything else. After the mentioned upgrades, I just have to occasionally adjust the drag link to get the steering wheel at 12 o' clock and of course routine maintenance. Old Man Emu makes very good leaf springs for your CJ-7. I have their coils and it's been a nice upgrade over the budget ones the previous owner had on there. How does your CJ-7 ride in the rain? My TJ although a great riding Jeep with the coils, Ko2's and upgrades is a little spooky in rain with the hydroplaning. I guess this is to be expected with a short wheel base.
It rarely rains in Southern California. The top is usually off and it stays in the garage - just goes out in good weather. It has BF mud tires so it would get poor traction in the rain. There isn’t enough tread in contact with the road. I have BF all terrain tires on my Rubicon. Last winter we were in the snow at Big Bear (Ep 61) and the Jeeps with mud tires were really struggling and my tires we’re doing really well. Think it was because there was ice under the snow. I like the way the mud tires look, but I don’t know what I’ll put on the CJ when I need new tires.
Great upgrade! You should consider a Borgeson Steering shaft, and the M.O.R.E. Steering box replacement bracket. I would really replace the springs with Old Man Emu YJ conversion springs, or BDS springs, they will make a world of difference. These upgrades are worth every penny! They transformed my CJ5. 😉
Yeah I think the Rough Country springs were the biggest mistake I made with this Jeep. They’re way too stiff for the Jeep’s weight. New springs will probably be next. What size lift do you have on your CJ? How does it do on the road at highway speeds? Did you ever have bump steer issues? They’re obviously always going to drive like an old Jeep, but my 4” lift created a lot of bump steer.
I have a 2.5 inch rc lift, stock front shackles loft shackles on rear. Bump steer is fine in my book. Handles better than our other stock jeeps. Stock stableizer, pitman, tie rods, rc shocks, stock 1980s swaybar (80s swaybars were thicker than the 70s ones) yes it has bump steer, if you let go you will eventually be in the ditch, however i do 70 all the time, and it drives pretty dang straight. I daily drive this jeep no matter what the weather. Yes its stiff as a brick, and yes its bumpy, but at the end of the day its horse and buggy susspention. Roman charriots used leaf springs, its more than vintage tech on a vintage vehicle, it will alwayd ride and handle like shot unless you mod everything that makes it a cj. Bump steer has gotten a little better with the swap from my 1981 narrow tracs to some 1982 scramble widtracs. Oem tie rods had 171k miles, driverside wheel had pretty good wobble so the used tie rods are much better and less sloppy, but i have new ones on hand for when they go. Either my jeep handles fine and everyone else doesnt or i didnt adapt the jeep to me, i adapted to the jeep. The first owner of this cj of mine rolled it at 800 miles cause it was unstable, my grandpa bought it and its been a daily driver tossed around in the family since
Nice Jeep. I appreciate your sharing. I wonder if he discussed or if you have knowledge on how to set the toe-in. I’ll of course look for the answer elsewhere but it’d be nice to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately that’s beyond my limited knowledge and I don’t remember discussing it with Dustin. I like your profile pic! What year CJ do you have?
That’s a great description! I found that getting rid of the Rough Country lift helped a lot too. We we’re just out driving on the highway last weekend and were doing 65 and didn’t feel like we were going to die. Before I got the steering upgrades and new lift - we drove to Moab (1,500 miles round trip). It was white knuckles all the way. I look back now and can’t believe we did it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
the MORE steering brace and steering box bracket would have also helped. I have a MORE bracket just lazy to install it but the brace pretty much tightened up the steering
Thanks for the video. To my knowledge you should keep the OE pitman arm he put on because he made up the difference in angle by reversing the drag link and tie rod mounting to top of steering knuckles. However, was wondering if you know why he welded on new sway bar link mounts? Why not use the existing mounts on the spring plates? Thanks!
I think that was definitely his thinking for going back to the original Pitman arm. I’m sorry but I don’t remember why he had to weld those new mounts. (I’m sure I knew at the time, but my memory isn’t what it used to be). I tried to ask him what he was doing and why throughout the video and I must of missed it. I know the stabilizer was a different model than what Rancho recommends for my CJ and it was a little longer - but I don’t think that required the new mounts. I would ask him, but he’s so busy… if you figure it out - let me know. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for your video. Steering is a regular concern in the latter years of a CJ. Can anyone recommend a body restoration shop in Southern California for a paint job on a CJ ?
I’ll definitely do an update. I think I’ll still have some bump steer, but the steering is tighter and more responsive. I haven’t been on the freeway yet…
Wow you don’t see too many J10s on the road! The J series has an interesting history beginning in 1962. You would have to contact Mountain Off-Road Enterprises to see if they make a drag link and tie rod to fit your model. Even if they don’t, I would think someone makes a upgraded drag link, tie rod and steering stabilizer to fit your Jeep. What part of the world are you in? Good Luck!
I have a '72 CJ5 with the 304 V8 and need a shop in Southern California to rebuild it, add some stuff, and just make it a solid trail vehicle. Would you recommend these guys for a major rebuild from either rebuilding original engine or new crate engine and transmission, paint/body, rebuild axles, etc?
Yes I would recommend JeepCare center. This was the first time Dustin has done any work for me, but he is very competent. He showed me a 1975 Land Cruiser that he restored and put a corvette engine in and it was beautiful. I used to use Jeep Solutions in Long Beach, but my mechanic there passed away. I’ve used a shop in Big Bear for my Wrangler. When I took the CJ to Dustin I was ready to replace the springs and to his credit he recommended that we do things incrementally and see how things go. Tell him you watched the video and I recommended him. Keep me posted on how it goes.
@@tcsadventures Awesome! Thank you for the update and information. It won't be an elaborate frame-off resto but I want to rebuild what it currently has, makes some upgrades, and go from 33s to 35s. It's been in the garage 10 years and needs someone to make it a reliable overland Jeep. Thanks again.
Changing to the stock pitman arm seems to have put a bunch of angle on the drag link, which will cause bump steer. As your axle goes up (in a bump), the drag link effectively gets longer, pushing the steering momentarily to the side that it is connected at the knuckle.. are you having that issue? Im building my steering now, and if thats not an issue, Im going to let some angle happen
I haven’t watched the video since I edited it, but I know he explained why he was opposed to the drop pitman (I may not have captured it on video and I don’t remember the reasons). You’re definitely right about the angle which concerned me. The little bit that I’ve driven on the freeway - there seems to be an improvement in the bump steer. It drives fine on surface streets. After I drive on a longer trip I’ll have a better idea if I want to try the drop pitman again. Thanks for watching and your comment!
Hi. Quick Question. I have to replace my Front Leaf Spring shackle / brackets.. The two plates of metal with two long bolts (and a nut) that go through the leaf spring ending. Can you tell me, WHAT do I jack up & What do I dont jack up...so that when I pull out the lower long bolt, my leaf spring doesn't go Bam & Boing & Fly about.... and plus, to allow me to push through the New bolts easily. Thanks. (I've never attempted anything like this, and I think I may need 2 or 3 Jacks yikes.)
Sorry David, that’s not a DIY project that I’ve done. I did reach out to someone who would know, but I haven’t heard back yet. This month JeepCare Center is replacing my Rough Country springs with Superlift springs and putting on new RockJock shackles. I hope to get that video posted this month. I’ll let you know if I get any info on your project and hopefully someone will post a helpful comment. Thanks for watching!
@@tcsadventures thank you.... 1 person said to jack up the front end, tires off the ground. And then jack up the frame of the front end a bit too. (I.d.k. it all seems odd and i just want an easy Off & On type of position.)
I spoke to a mechanic friend about your DIY project and he would recommend that you either take it to a qualified mechanic or get someone to help you that has experience. Your project can be very dangerous and the consequences disastrous if you don’t follow proper safety precautions. The process involves, IN PART: Blocking at least one tire so the Jeep won't roll, then jacking up the Jeep from either the front bumper or frame rails until the front axle is hanging. Next placing jack stands under the frame for support, then using the floor jack - jacking the front axle up until there is no load on the suspension; from there removing the old shackles, hardware and bushings and install new parts. Based on the above, I would either take it to a professional or enlist the help of someone who has experience doing it.
@@tcsadventures Gotcha.... I.M.O. If You Jack Up The Frame of the front end (front bumper) until the wheels start to lift off the ground...Then you have basically relieved much (if not all) if the tension of the leaf spring that want to spring Up. So, If you then proceed to jack up the Axle, you'll then be re-applying pressure and (squatting) the leaf springs back taught -flatish- again. ((I'll let ya know how it goes))
This is going to be a long answer to your question: I don’t know what mount he used because he used a different steering Rancho stabilizer than the one that is specified to fit the CJ. The one he used was longer and he had to cut the U-bolts. In the video I state that the Rancho RS 5402 - RS 5000 series is the specified Rancho stabilizer for my CJ. I called Rancho tech support this morning to confirm the information that’s on-line before I answered your question (800 325 8886 - Matt). He said that the RS 5402/RS 5000 is the right stabilizer for a 84 CJ with my lift (up to 4 inches). He said that the mounting bracket for that stabilizer is RS 5508. I did find it on Amazon and this is the link - you might find it cheaper elsewhere. www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS5508-Steering-Stabilizer-Bracket/dp/B000CB6FME Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Below is a link to the Bilstein shocks. It’s a 4” lift with Rough Country Springs. But I’ll post a video next month when we install Superlift springs. The tires are 33” on original wheels. Check out the CJ7 video on my channel where I do a walkaround. Thanks for watching and your question! www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BPKFERC/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I replied yesterday, but it didn't post for some reason so I'll try again. They're Bilstein 5100 series shocks for C5/Cj7 with lift. Tires are 33" BF Mud tires. Lift is 4" with Rough Country springs. But in December I'll post a video of an upgrade to Superlift springs. I have a video on my channel where I do a walk around of the CJ. Thanks for watching!
All the parts have insert photos on the screen in the video - with either the part number or the sku number. Now there are also links in the description.
I’ve only driven it on the street. It is definitely less sloppy. Tighter steering with less play. I just got it done a few weeks ago and since then we’ve done a lot of camping with the Rubicon.
I would say yes at this point. I really needed to upgrade to beefy components and what was on there was worn out. The quick disconnect sway bar will definitely give me more flex. Will I still have bump steer - probably, but hopefully not as bad. The 4” lift is going to make it difficult to completely get rid of it. I’ll do an update soon.
Definitely less bump steer and the steering is more responsive overall. I drove it on the freeway today and you don’t have to fight to keep it on the road when you hit a bump or there’s a change in surface on the road. It still drives like an old CJ7, but it’s an improvement. When I first bought the Jeep in 1988, I drove it cross country to CA. It was completely stock. When I compare that drive to driving it 1,500 miles to Moab with a lift and oversized mud tires - huge difference. That’s not surprising. When you make modifications from how they engineered the vehicle you can create new problems. Someone commented that people basically seem to expect a Jeep to drive differently than it was designed. There may be some truth to that, but for me I’m just trying to get it back to where it isn’t a struggle to keep it on the road. I think the steering improvements and the new springs have gotten me there.
hello, do you know what size spare tire carrier you’re running on the rear? looks like you’re running maybe 33s on there. looks like a stock tire carrier.
It’s the stock tire carrier with BF Goodrich Mud 33 x 10.5 x 15. (stock rims) No problems with the carrier/tailgate yet - knock on wood! I have a walk around of the CJ on my channel where I talk about everything on there. I’m upgrading to Superlift springs next week and I’ll post a video of that install. Thanks for watching and commenting!
them lynch pins ain't worth a damn, you need a bolt and double nut on them cuz if you do any jeepen in high weeds the weeds will wrap around them and pull them out...
You don't need the anti sway bar at all, I removed it off of my "82 CJ7 with a lift and it makes no difference, we didn't have those on the old trucks and they all had leaf spring front ends. Just saying.
Absolutely not true! I bought a new 1976 CJ5 Levi's that would almost roll over on a highway cloverleaf! Tried the heavy duty shock route, it just took longer to end up rolled over. There were even media stories about how dangerous these were. I had Quickor engineering build me a set of sway bars and they made an incredible difference. Of course put disconnects. Next year Jeep came out factory with them! Have them on my '85 Cj7 5.0. Only time you would not need them is if your springs were stiff as Rough Country and you have no offroad compliance.
I think with the first civilian Jeep CJ2A and then the CJ3A they were marketed almost exclusively as farm/ranch vehicles. The CJ5 was notoriously dangerous on the road. They progressively adapted the Jeep over time to be more capable on the road. I have a video on the channel that covers the military Jeep and the transition to civilian Jeeps.
Not captured on this video: The drag link had to be shortened/cut to flip it and put it on top of the steering knuckle. Dustin had to cut approx 0.50" off one end.
how has it been driving with the Hiem joints instead of the ball joints?
We’ve been away to one place or another since the work was done and I haven’t driven it on the freeway yet. The steering has less play and overall feels tighter now - when driving on surface streets.
@@tcsadventures Every upgrade adds up! The Borgeson shaft and the M.O.R.E. steering box bracket made a significant difference in the way my jeep handles bump steer. I will make the jump to the tie rods that you did next. 😉
good notes breh
Very cool that he let you film this whole process!
Yeah I liked having the work done at his shop.
Bought a '85 PO says, "drives like old Jeep". Well he had lift shackles on the front that took out ALL the Castor out so it would not go straight and if you let go of the wheel, into the ditch. Next; steering box bolts loose so was wobbling all over with huge slack. Added Castor wedges, cut down the front shackles, tightened the box. Holds straight and true and tight.
Thanks for the comment!
i have done basicly the same on the front. but... used chevy 1/2 ton tie rods, stock pit-man arm retapered for a chevy 1/2 ton tie's. the tie rod ends on the "C's" were re-tapered from the top down. with a 4-1/2 in soft ride my drag link is level. but you must use a "more" or other heavy duty steering box mount, dump the ceep plate steel stuff. and a cross frame bar to support the snout on the steering gear box. and you need longer heaver duty spring shackles. i junked my anti sway bad. and do not even run rear shocks, (kept breaking off the lower mounts on rocks).
if you have the death wobble. get a printout what your caster/camber is now. then buy ONLY machined shims (NOT THE CAST JUNK) of the correct angle bolt between the axle pads and springs. --forget the company but from a place off sunrise in rancho crodova i believe on moneier circle.--close to the wrecking yards.--
DO NOT trust those bolt on cleaves mounts. as bolts stretch and snap very easily. trust only frame ext mounts.
but your on your way.
Appears to be a great upgrade. Thanks for sharing all of the installation details. Cheers.... Mike
Thanks! You have a lot of good CJ7 content on your channel!
Very cool jeep!
I have a 2015 that is mostly Rubicon Express but after replacing the front and rear track bars that wore out prematurely I am now a huge Synergy fan. I was having bad bump steer and the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE and the fix was a track bar brace from Synergy. Now my jeep with a 3.5 lift and 35 tires handles like my Jetta!
Don’t think the CJ will ever handle like a Jetta no matter what I do lol! But it is handling better now. I have a 2016 Rubicon and luckily no Death Wobble or bad bump steer (knock on wood). Thanks for watching and commenting - hope you like some of my other videos too!
@@tcsadventures Man, if you can get a CJ to handle like a Jetta, sell that fix! hahaha!
To solve the bump steer and death wobble on my 2015 Wrangler I changed tie rods, track bar, ball joints and dampener and did not solve. And I balanced and rotated tires twice. Then I found the track bar bracket from Synergy and that was the fix. It was hard for me to accept that the frame was flexing enough to cause the problem. If you have any issues on your 2016 check it out :)
I just came across this video and wanna say thanks! I have a beautiful 83 CJ-7 as my "summer car" but no one up here in the northeast knows how to solve the bump steer issue. Will be ordering those parts now and installing this spring.
My steering definitely improved with the steering upgrades, but make no mistake it still drives like an old Jeep. With the upgrades we took off the Drop Pitman arm, because he believes it creates other problems. I know many would argue you need it. We also got rid of the Rough Country springs. They were too stiff and gave me a lift over 5”. The new Superlift and shackles have helped with handling too. Good luck with your project and let me know how it turns out!
Just happened across this video. Nice jeep! I have a 1980 CJ7 hard top Laredo I purchased in November 1979. I’ve don a little work to it but tried to keep most of it original. I did put a Chevy 350 in it in 93 and put a wild country lift on it in about 06 or 07. Wish I knew how to send pictures. Enjoyed the video. Thanks
Wow, you’re the original owner?! I have a million questions… what did you pay for it new? How many of the 42 years was it a daily driver? You got rid of the original engine pretty early - how many miles did it have on it? Do you have original paint? You can send me some pics to tcadventures2@gmail.com
My '05 TJ Rocky Mtn needed steering / handling work too. Recently installed the Rock Jock drag link/tie rod combo replacing that old stock toothpick setup. Also installed Old Man Emu coils, Fox Shox 2.0's, Freedom Off Road front lower control arms and track bar. Went to "upgrade" the steering stabilizer with the Falcon. That thing was horrible for my TJ. A good thing came out of it though. I put the HD Monroe steering stabilizer back on with the supplied Falcon high mount bracket and wow, does this thing handle better now. The steering stabilizer is perfectly parallel to the ground. But I still have a little steering slop. Many have said they have removed the steering box bolt and tightened it to 185ft lbs and that has made a big difference. Like all other components, you have to torque them down every so often. Great video as always, that is one cool CJ-7! 😎
The work never ended! Lol! I think springs will be next for me.
@@tcsadventures Yeah these older Jeeps are needy but so are most vehicles. And honestly, I couldn't imagine driving anything else. After the mentioned upgrades, I just have to occasionally adjust the drag link to get the steering wheel at 12 o' clock and of course routine maintenance. Old Man Emu makes very good leaf springs for your CJ-7. I have their coils and it's been a nice upgrade over the budget ones the previous owner had on there. How does your CJ-7 ride in the rain? My TJ although a great riding Jeep with the coils, Ko2's and upgrades is a little spooky in rain with the hydroplaning. I guess this is to be expected with a short wheel base.
It rarely rains in Southern California. The top is usually off and it stays in the garage - just goes out in good weather. It has BF mud tires so it would get poor traction in the rain. There isn’t enough tread in contact with the road. I have BF all terrain tires on my Rubicon. Last winter we were in the snow at Big Bear (Ep 61) and the Jeeps with mud tires were really struggling and my tires we’re doing really well. Think it was because there was ice under the snow. I like the way the mud tires look, but I don’t know what I’ll put on the CJ when I need new tires.
Great upgrade! You should consider a Borgeson Steering shaft, and the M.O.R.E. Steering box replacement bracket. I would really replace the springs with
Old Man Emu YJ conversion springs, or BDS springs, they will make a world of difference. These upgrades are worth every penny! They transformed my CJ5. 😉
Yeah I think the Rough Country springs were the biggest mistake I made with this Jeep. They’re way too stiff for the Jeep’s weight. New springs will probably be next. What size lift do you have on your CJ? How does it do on the road at highway speeds? Did you ever have bump steer issues? They’re obviously always going to drive like an old Jeep, but my 4” lift created a lot of bump steer.
@@tcsadventures I have the BDS 2.5" lift. I am running BFG KM2's 32X11.5. I also have the Bilstien shocks.
I went with the 2.5 inch old man emu yj conversion springs, 32 by 11:50 BFG’s and Billstiens. I’m very happy with the set up.
Thanks for the content!
I have a 2.5 inch rc lift, stock front shackles loft shackles on rear. Bump steer is fine in my book. Handles better than our other stock jeeps. Stock stableizer, pitman, tie rods, rc shocks, stock 1980s swaybar (80s swaybars were thicker than the 70s ones) yes it has bump steer, if you let go you will eventually be in the ditch, however i do 70 all the time, and it drives pretty dang straight. I daily drive this jeep no matter what the weather. Yes its stiff as a brick, and yes its bumpy, but at the end of the day its horse and buggy susspention. Roman charriots used leaf springs, its more than vintage tech on a vintage vehicle, it will alwayd ride and handle like shot unless you mod everything that makes it a cj. Bump steer has gotten a little better with the swap from my 1981 narrow tracs to some 1982 scramble widtracs. Oem tie rods had 171k miles, driverside wheel had pretty good wobble so the used tie rods are much better and less sloppy, but i have new ones on hand for when they go. Either my jeep handles fine and everyone else doesnt or i didnt adapt the jeep to me, i adapted to the jeep. The first owner of this cj of mine rolled it at 800 miles cause it was unstable, my grandpa bought it and its been a daily driver tossed around in the family since
Nice Jeep. I appreciate your sharing. I wonder if he discussed or if you have knowledge on how to set the toe-in. I’ll of course look for the answer elsewhere but it’d be nice to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately that’s beyond my limited knowledge and I don’t remember discussing it with Dustin. I like your profile pic! What year CJ do you have?
It’s surprising to me that they didn’t add a 4 degree caster shim to the front axle. I absolutely hate heim joints.
Interesting video, I'm a little disappointed you didn't fill the actual toe in adjustment. That's what I need to do.
I gotta get this done.. I call my steering wheel the "direction suggestion apparatus"..
That’s a great description! I found that getting rid of the Rough Country lift helped a lot too. We we’re just out driving on the highway last weekend and were doing 65 and didn’t feel like we were going to die. Before I got the steering upgrades and new lift - we drove to Moab (1,500 miles round trip). It was white knuckles all the way. I look back now and can’t believe we did it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
the MORE steering brace and steering box bracket would have also helped. I have a MORE bracket just lazy to install it but the brace pretty much tightened up the steering
Thanks for the video. To my knowledge you should keep the OE pitman arm he put on because he made up the difference in angle by reversing the drag link and tie rod mounting to top of steering knuckles. However, was wondering if you know why he welded on new sway bar link mounts? Why not use the existing mounts on the spring plates? Thanks!
I think that was definitely his thinking for going back to the original Pitman arm. I’m sorry but I don’t remember why he had to weld those new mounts. (I’m sure I knew at the time, but my memory isn’t what it used to be). I tried to ask him what he was doing and why throughout the video and I must of missed it. I know the stabilizer was a different model than what Rancho recommends for my CJ and it was a little longer - but I don’t think that required the new mounts. I would ask him, but he’s so busy… if you figure it out - let me know. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for your video. Steering is a regular concern in the latter years of a CJ. Can anyone recommend a body restoration shop in Southern California for a paint job on a CJ ?
I think Dustin at JeepCare would have a recommendation. I would call him.
@@tcsadventures thank you
Cool video let us know how it goes!!
I’ll definitely do an update. I think I’ll still have some bump steer, but the steering is tighter and more responsive. I haven’t been on the freeway yet…
Any particular reason why you can't use the spring U-bolt plates for the sway bar disconnects? Or is welding of the tabs absolutely necessary?
Thanks for the video, Will this upgrade fit a 1974 J10?
Wow you don’t see too many J10s on the road! The J series has an interesting history beginning in 1962. You would have to contact Mountain Off-Road Enterprises to see if they make a drag link and tie rod to fit your model. Even if they don’t, I would think someone makes a upgraded drag link, tie rod and steering stabilizer to fit your Jeep. What part of the world are you in? Good Luck!
Thanks, Georgia
bump steer is deff a problem on most 4X4s
You know if you put the axles on the opposite side of the leaf spring you gain three more inches
I have a '72 CJ5 with the 304 V8 and need a shop in Southern California to rebuild it, add some stuff, and just make it a solid trail vehicle. Would you recommend these guys for a major rebuild from either rebuilding original engine or new crate engine and transmission, paint/body, rebuild axles, etc?
Yes I would recommend JeepCare center. This was the first time Dustin has done any work for me, but he is very competent. He showed me a 1975 Land Cruiser that he restored and put a corvette engine in and it was beautiful. I used to use Jeep Solutions in Long Beach, but my mechanic there passed away. I’ve used a shop in Big Bear for my Wrangler. When I took the CJ to Dustin I was ready to replace the springs and to his credit he recommended that we do things incrementally and see how things go. Tell him you watched the video and I recommended him. Keep me posted on how it goes.
@@tcsadventures Awesome! Thank you for the update and information. It won't be an elaborate frame-off resto but I want to rebuild what it currently has, makes some upgrades, and go from 33s to 35s. It's been in the garage 10 years and needs someone to make it a reliable overland Jeep. Thanks again.
Changing to the stock pitman arm seems to have put a bunch of angle on the drag link, which will cause bump steer. As your axle goes up (in a bump), the drag link effectively gets longer, pushing the steering momentarily to the side that it is connected at the knuckle.. are you having that issue? Im building my steering now, and if thats not an issue, Im going to let some angle happen
I haven’t watched the video since I edited it, but I know he explained why he was opposed to the drop pitman (I may not have captured it on video and I don’t remember the reasons). You’re definitely right about the angle which concerned me. The little bit that I’ve driven on the freeway - there seems to be an improvement in the bump steer. It drives fine on surface streets. After I drive on a longer trip I’ll have a better idea if I want to try the drop pitman again. Thanks for watching and your comment!
You want the tie rod and the drag link on as close to the same plane. Put the drop pitman arm back on.
Hi. Quick Question. I have to replace my Front Leaf Spring shackle / brackets.. The two plates of metal with two long bolts (and a nut) that go through the leaf spring ending. Can you tell me, WHAT do I jack up & What do I dont jack up...so that when I pull out the lower long bolt, my leaf spring doesn't go Bam & Boing & Fly about.... and plus, to allow me to push through the New bolts easily. Thanks. (I've never attempted anything like this, and I think I may need 2 or 3 Jacks yikes.)
Sorry David, that’s not a DIY project that I’ve done. I did reach out to someone who would know, but I haven’t heard back yet. This month JeepCare Center is replacing my Rough Country springs with Superlift springs and putting on new RockJock shackles. I hope to get that video posted this month. I’ll let you know if I get any info on your project and hopefully someone will post a helpful comment. Thanks for watching!
@@tcsadventures thank you.... 1 person said to jack up the front end, tires off the ground. And then jack up the frame of the front end a bit too. (I.d.k. it all seems odd and i just want an easy Off & On type of position.)
I spoke to a mechanic friend about your DIY project and he would recommend that you either take it to a qualified mechanic or get someone to help you that has experience. Your project can be very dangerous and the consequences disastrous if you don’t follow proper safety precautions. The process involves, IN PART:
Blocking at least one tire so the Jeep won't roll, then jacking up the Jeep from either the front bumper or frame rails until the front axle is hanging. Next placing jack stands under the frame for support, then using the floor jack - jacking the front axle up until there is no load on the suspension; from there removing the old shackles, hardware and bushings and install new parts.
Based on the above, I would either take it to a professional or enlist the help of someone who has experience doing it.
@@tcsadventures Gotcha.... I.M.O. If You Jack Up The Frame of the front end (front bumper) until the wheels start to lift off the ground...Then you have basically relieved much (if not all) if the tension of the leaf spring that want to spring Up. So, If you then proceed to jack up the Axle, you'll then be re-applying pressure and (squatting) the leaf springs back taught -flatish- again. ((I'll let ya know how it goes))
where is that steering stabilizer bracket mount from?
This is going to be a long answer to your question:
I don’t know what mount he used because he used a different steering Rancho stabilizer than the one that is specified to fit the CJ. The one he used was longer and he had to cut the U-bolts. In the video I state that the Rancho RS 5402 - RS 5000 series is the specified Rancho stabilizer for my CJ. I called Rancho tech support this morning to confirm the information that’s on-line before I answered your question (800 325 8886 - Matt). He said that the RS 5402/RS 5000 is the right stabilizer for a 84 CJ with my lift (up to 4 inches). He said that the mounting bracket for that stabilizer is RS 5508. I did find it on Amazon and this is the link - you might find it cheaper elsewhere.
www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS5508-Steering-Stabilizer-Bracket/dp/B000CB6FME
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
@@tcsadventures sweet!!! Thanks for going through the trouble to verify !!
Thanks for watching!
The tie rod and drag link you installed in this video are black. Were they ordered like this or did you paint them?
I believe he had them powder coated.
@@tcsadventures Thank you for the reply. They look great!
What Bilsteins are those? and what size tire / lift setup do you have?
Below is a link to the Bilstein shocks. It’s a 4” lift with Rough Country Springs. But I’ll post a video next month when we install Superlift springs. The tires are 33” on original wheels. Check out the CJ7 video on my channel where I do a walkaround. Thanks for watching and your question!
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BPKFERC/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I replied yesterday, but it didn't post for some reason so I'll try again. They're Bilstein 5100 series shocks for C5/Cj7 with lift. Tires are 33" BF Mud tires. Lift is 4" with Rough Country springs. But in December I'll post a video of an upgrade to Superlift springs. I have a video on my channel where I do a walk around of the CJ. Thanks for watching!
can you send or post the exact parts...this may help my death wobble
All the parts have insert photos on the screen in the video - with either the part number or the sku number. Now there are also links in the description.
So after a few miles now how does your CJ drive - street, highway and off-road?
I’ve only driven it on the street. It is definitely less sloppy. Tighter steering with less play. I just got it done a few weeks ago and since then we’ve done a lot of camping with the Rubicon.
@@tcsadventures so was the cost of the job worth it?
I would say yes at this point. I really needed to upgrade to beefy components and what was on there was worn out. The quick disconnect sway bar will definitely give me more flex. Will I still have bump steer - probably, but hopefully not as bad. The 4” lift is going to make it difficult to completely get rid of it. I’ll do an update soon.
@@tcsadventures So after a few months, what’s your opinion of the steering now?
Definitely less bump steer and the steering is more responsive overall. I drove it on the freeway today and you don’t have to fight to keep it on the road when you hit a bump or there’s a change in surface on the road. It still drives like an old CJ7, but it’s an improvement. When I first bought the Jeep in 1988, I drove it cross country to CA. It was completely stock. When I compare that drive to driving it 1,500 miles to Moab with a lift and oversized mud tires - huge difference. That’s not surprising. When you make modifications from how they engineered the vehicle you can create new problems. Someone commented that people basically seem to expect a Jeep to drive differently than it was designed. There may be some truth to that, but for me I’m just trying to get it back to where it isn’t a struggle to keep it on the road. I think the steering improvements and the new springs have gotten me there.
hello, do you know what size spare tire carrier you’re running on the rear? looks like you’re running maybe 33s on there. looks like a stock tire carrier.
It’s the stock tire carrier with BF Goodrich Mud 33 x 10.5 x 15. (stock rims) No problems with the carrier/tailgate yet - knock on wood! I have a walk around of the CJ on my channel where I talk about everything on there. I’m upgrading to Superlift springs next week and I’ll post a video of that install. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm new friend here stay connected
lol
Put a hummer H1 box in
them lynch pins ain't worth a damn, you need a bolt and double nut on them cuz if you do any jeepen in high weeds the weeds will wrap around them and pull them out...
Salogo jego cj7
You don't need the anti sway bar at all, I removed it off of my "82 CJ7 with a lift and it makes no difference, we didn't have those on the old trucks and they all had leaf spring front ends. Just saying.
Absolutely not true! I bought a new 1976 CJ5 Levi's that would almost roll over on a highway cloverleaf! Tried the heavy duty shock route, it just took longer to end up rolled over. There were even media stories about how dangerous these were. I had Quickor engineering build me a set of sway bars and they made an incredible difference. Of course put disconnects. Next year Jeep came out factory with them! Have them on my '85 Cj7 5.0. Only time you would not need them is if your springs were stiff as Rough Country and you have no offroad compliance.
@@rondye9398 Well I've never had a problem, I guess you could always slow down a bit.
I think with the first civilian Jeep CJ2A and then the CJ3A they were marketed almost exclusively as farm/ranch vehicles. The CJ5 was notoriously dangerous on the road. They progressively adapted the Jeep over time to be more capable on the road. I have a video on the channel that covers the military Jeep and the transition to civilian Jeeps.