I've successfully negotiated at a "no haggle" store before...not Carmax but a local dealer. When I offered a price they said "we price our cars according to the market therefore the price you see is the price you pay". I respectfully said, the price I'd like to pay is x and I am prepared to do it now. They came back in 10 minutes and the deal was on. Saved $800. I think it worked because they knew if I didn't buy it, they may end up lowering the price the next week anyway (which they do, I've analyzed their inventory week over week -I have too much time on my hands). Just do your research on apples to apples (year, mileage, trim etc) as much as possible, know what is fair, and be prepared to wait or buy somewhere else.
yeah a salesman tried making it seem like the car i was interested in would be gone tomorrow if i didn't buy it the same day although I knew it has been on their lot 119 days.
I'd do ANYTHING (including paying a bit more) to avoid setting foot in a dealership (i.e., organized crime franchise) that puts me through old-fashioned haggling games.
Hell no. The dealer had a used car I want, they priced at 55K and won’t budge. It has been a month, they lowered price to 51K and calling me everyday to go in and talk a deal. The GM told me he guarantee he will work out a deal with me. I asked him what about no haggle? He said he only does this for me. I laughed and tell him don’t break the rules for me, and he should stick with the price since they are so confident with it
This is exactly the problem I see with no haggle. They expect you to believe them when they give you the "bottom price", then they drop it. Which explicitly means that it was NOT their bottom price. If they had priced that vehicle at $51k maybe it would not have sat there for a month.
Excellent talking point! Sadly I've never been blessed with the skills to fight for a bargain. The dealer I have built a relationship with over 25 years went "No Hassle" pricing about ten years ago. The prices are clear and a quick internet search shows you right where you stand.
I'm buying my first car since 2008 and this a "no haggle" dealership is a bit of a new concept to me. I will admit that I am skeptical because inflated prices and having to haggle has just been part of the process forever. However, being "no haggle" doesn't mean that you don't negotiate anything, as I got an "out the door" quote from AutoNation today that includes $509 for "Interior/Exterior Protection" and another $509 for "Protection - Dent". So, I will have to be "negotiate" with them and firmly tell them to take that crap off the quote, since it's just typical dealer bs. They also listed a "Documentation Fee" of $699.00. Now, a "Documentation Fee" is an expected fee but $699 is too high, so I will have to try to negotiate that down to $300 or $400 at the absolute worst. So, even in a "no haggle" environment, they will still try some of the old dealership tricks.
I’ve purchased 5 vehicles from CarMax and it’s been a pleasurable experience. The cars has has always been in optimal condition and I’ve developed a great relationship with a sales associate. My time is worth it to pay $800 above MSRP for a stress free 2hr visit vice weeks of haggle and a 7hr Saturday at said dealership.
Agreed. You still need to do your homework and I will still negotiate with dealers where I can but if you do your research, you can often find cars from "no haggle" sellers that are within 500-$1000 of a realistic "optimal negated price" which for many is worth the trade off for ease of transaction.
I don't know where you live, but from reading the near microscopic print in used car ads in my area, the ADERTISED prices of used cars at CarMax are HIGHER than most dealers....but then I have to contend with "administrative fees" that are added on to the price of those cheaper cars, and guess what? The formerly cheaper cars are now a few hundred dollars more expensive. In my area, dealers charge 2 different add-on fees, that in the worst case so far totaled nearly $2,000. Typically, the fees add "only" $1,000. In my personal experience, you can find an occasional deal on a car at CarMax, but most of the inventory is overpriced. It just depends on whether you want an overpriced car with reasonable fees....or a cheaper car with ridiculously high fees (that you may or may not be able to negotiate away).
Yeah but at a traditional dealership the ad on fees you can negotiate or walk away. Most people dont even know the doc fee cap for there state so again carmax cars are priced higher. But if they have what you want and you cant find it anywhere else it might make sense 🤷♂️
For some reason with my local market carmax can sometimes be cheaper if you have a car transported in. Also I’ve noticed if you have an account and save cars for later on it there’s been a few that have dropped by exactly 1k after a few weeks because they are sitting in inventories. If someone wants to do a contactless delivery no haggle dealer like carmax or carvana I suggest picking about 5-10 specific cars you would be interested in, waiting about a month and see what happens, some will be not available anymore but there’s a good chance one of them will be reduced. Also another tip if you’re interested in financing I would think about your own bank but Carvana financial does NOT do a hard credit inquiry for preapproval but carmax absolutely does do a hard credit inquiry for preapproval and you want to have a limited amount of those. Hope some of this was useful!
Went to an AutoNation, no Haggle price. AND I DIDN'T TRY TO HAGGLE. Did my homework on my vehicle. Pretty easy process. But you can haggle on your trade-in value! I did and got an even better deal!!! Free on RUclips advice from Car Edge was invaluable and I had no problem refusing the backend protection products. TY to all your team
I have mixed feelings about the topic: 1. The "one price" may move based on an aging policy, change in the comparable average as often as daily, or even on a manager's whim. 2. There is a theory, that the prices are kept artificially high, as though dealers are competitors - yet, they also want to preserve a certain profit and thus, help each other do so inherently. 3. How does this kind of dealership deal with the approach of nearing making an incentive (bogey) etc. ?
I bought a car from Carmax back in 2009. Got a great, low mileage 2006 Toyota Corolla with +/-49,000 miles. I have NEVER had such a painless experience. No ridiculous "fees", no trying to work me over in F&I, and no attempts to sell me a line of BS. The last car we bought from another dealership on the last day of February, and we found a "unicorn car" that turned out to be a real steal; but dealing with the dealership and the F&I ass hat was a real hassle.
No-haggle pricing is good in concept, but not necessarily in practice. When I bought my last car I had a CPO car I wanted to buy from a one-price dealership, however they simply did not do a good job in doing their comparison or thought their $h!+ smelled better than everyone else's. The car at the on-price shop was ~$1K more than for a vehicle that was a year newer, had less miles and more options. Even when I pointed out 3 different local CPO cars (same model) that were listed for less (without all the fake things to "lower" the price), they would not move. I can certainly respect them for sticking to their process, but I also didn't buy their car. In the end they did a few more price drops and ultimately sold it for what I had told them I would have been willing to pay for it. I held no grudge, as they are the dealership I use for much of my work.
I just shopped around for a truck at about 7-8 used car dealerships. Every single one of them refused to negotiate and also everyone of them added products or fees that raised their internet price that were also non-negotiable. I simply kept looking until I found a price and extra products I could live with. This is in Orange County, California.
I offered my car for sale on several websites and the offer from carmax was higher than most. I suspect that because of CarMax’s no haggle policy they are selling their cars with a price buffer so they can offer more for used cars and shut down competitors. Just a thought I had.
It saves you time ,how much is your time worth , I think this is the best way , everyone does research before going in , the experience is much better .I am glad you finally told all these people watching ,I work in a one price store and its the only way to buy a car .it only takes time to find the right car you really want and can afford .nice job guys !
Thanks Todd for being a part of the future. I have been advocating for years that one price stores are the way to go for everyone involved. It just really takes all the BS out of the process. Stay safe and thanks for sharing. Ray
Carmax does it and every car they sell is overpriced, so from a business perspective, yeah , I’d agree with Zach “ they’re pretty successful “ but from a potential customers perspective, I’d say there’s zero chance I’ll buy a car from there.
CarMax can be overpriced, however, the car you buy from CarMax will be in top-notch condition as they do spend the money to recondition the cars. AutoNation cars can be priced less on average, but not everything they sell is in excellent condition. Don't have any experience with carvana.
CarMax is only good for people that have bad credit because they will get you in a decent car for decent terms. For people with 750 and above credit don’t ever ever buy a car there. I would never shop there again. I spoke to them for about 20 mins before I realized this. Tried to put me in a car at 9% interest with a 790 FICO score. My last rate was 2.5%. I ended up financing straight through Tesla anyways when I realized I wanted a model 3.
Love your show. Carmax and Carvana appear to be higher price. Some of Carmax inventory seems to be more expensive than a similar new car. Although I have never heard of anyone complaining about their prices?
Compared to what or for who? I'm sure most savvy buyers can negotiate a "fair" price but a LOT of buyers can't.... Between F&I guy shenanigans and 4-square hi-jinx most "shrewd" buyers don't realize until much later on (if at all) how badly they were worked over. Ultimately, if you are able to find the car for sale by a private seller, arrange your own financing (or pay cash) - that would be the best way to buy a car....
I've been shopping for a specific used vehicle and comparing everything available online. Carmax gives you better trade-in/cash than traditional dealers. The prices always look better at "traditional" dealerships but once you get the OTD price it goes up 10-20% so that makes them more expensive than the Carmax then you can negotiate them down to Carmx price or you might save $100-500 dollars if you have time, leverage, good at negotiation skills, or the dealer is desperate to get rid of the car.
Had a great experience at echo park. The local Hyandai dealer was the typical unpleasant experience. The prices of the car at both locations was very close. However, the dealers had many "features" and packages they said were MANDATORY. Things like...1k/year gps. WTH. No thanks. All this stuff was optional at Echo Park. Also, the numbers in a loan calculator added up at EP. At the dealership...eh, they gave us a range. Why? 2+2 5, unless you are slipping in some numbers. Echo Park was quick, easy and painless. I'll never go to a traditional dealership again.
I went to a Carmax and was very interested in a Jeep Liberty but noticed gashes on a couple of tires. I asked the manager if they would replace the tires or give me a price that would reflect the cost of buying replacement tires and they said "No." I walked out. That's how easy it was for me to find out that I don't mind common-sense negotiating.
I loath and despise no haggle price dealers. It is insulting that they think their price is the lowest based upon their own research that is soley on comps.
I don't know where you live, but I have NEVER seen a no haggle dealer publish the claim that they have the lowest prices. What I find to be truly insulting is the trend to " marketplace" pricing. It IMPLIES that a similar car is available at other dealers for a similar price....and therefore you won't find it anywhere else for a better price.
GM tried one price marketing with Saturn. When was the last time you saw one of those? I’ve been in the car biz for more than 35 yrs. and am amazed what the young keyboard experts are spewing
I agree with this. Just bought a new car and one dealer tried to tell me they had the lowest price anywhere in a 50 mile radius. CarGurus and Carfax made it really easy for me to prove that loaf wrong as there were multiple vehicles with higher trim levels at the same price or same trim level at a lower price. (I was trying to use this as leverage to get the price lowered but they wouldn't budge) The sales rep had nothing to say after, but continued to try to get me to come down to the dealership.
Bought a new car today. Unfortunately places like Carmax and Carvana dont sell new cars. So my wife and I spent all evening haggling with the dealership. Went to the first one because they advertised a vehicle for $28,000. When we get there and drive it it suddenly becomes a $35,000 vehicle. We walked out went across town didnt get catfished on the next car.
If it's priced right, then of course you're not getting a discount. A car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I think most dealerships are very competitive these days, it's very easy for anyone to compare prices, dealers that over price their cars are only hurting themselves.
Lol I went to a place that called them a one price dealership and they tried ti charge me 1300 for doc fees, 2500 for powder coated wheels that they advertised the car with, and another 2500 for ceramic coating they said they already put on the car. They didn’t cause the car had all kinds of swirls on it. The place was in Southern California call Beamers and Teslers if anyone is wondering.
I asked a salesman from a dealership who sells at fixed prices for a $400 discount on a top trim model and he said yes. So you can in some cases get a better price from asking. It might be because the 2021 models are coming in and the dealer needs to get rid of the 2020's. It also depends on the make of the car. You probably won't get any further discount from this dealer on a Toyota Yaris.
I disagree. I think one-price dealers are just perpetuating a business model that is only advantageous to the dealers themselves. Without the ability to negotiate on something like a vehicle, the dealers can control the market prices better than ever before. This is partly why nowadays used cars are being priced higher than they ever were previously and now not referencing prices in any nature off certain, respectable and credible, websites such as KBB. Without the ability to negotiate you as the buyer have significantly less pull in the market itself and cannot act as a check and balance for a rapidly increasing used/new car market; one-price dealers can now all raise prices at a steady rate claiming it is competitive while waiting for the right uneducated buyer to purchase said over-priced car and further justify the new seller/dealer based market value. I believe there is also a quite large level of bias when you claim that one-price dealers are the correct route to go and the obvious future, I also think that the justification that the car buying process should be easy and that this is why dealers should/are switching is ridiculous because the whole concept of negotiating on a used car came from the understanding that it is not new and therefore its price is subjective. Additionally, as much as the buyer wants to negotiate to reduce the price as much as possible, the seller/dealer would want to restrict haggling to guarantee a higher price. Not being able to haggle also opens the doors to unfair prices based on damage or car history. Some dealers will give a "fair" price in their eyes, but in many cases, once you see the car and all its potential issues you would either deem it as a fair price and purchase it or see that there are indeed issues and then negotiate to a more realistic price with a now clear understanding of the actual car. With the concept of "no-haggle," you would just have to deal with these issues and pay the price or leave the problems to the uneducated buyer who forks the money over to the dealer because they claimed it was a "fair and competitive" deal based on cars of "similar" quality (something to note is that many car dealers do not share the metric in which the deem a car to be similar and therefore deserving of certain prices besides very arbitrary things). There is also the idea of a used car needing certain items replaced soon after purchase. It would follow that if a used car I was interested in buying was priced at $13,500 and a piece inside that car would need repairing less than 500 miles later the prices of that item would be knocked off the car value since I would have to be replacing that soon after purchase. However at a one-price dealer that is not something they would accept and is something they would be more inclined to "forget" or not include in their price evaluation. There is potentially more I could state about "no-haggle" and one-price dealers, but those are some of my thoughts on the subject and why I disagree with the business model from the viewpoint of the buyer, especially when it comes to the current and future used car market.
The only problem with the sponsoring website is you have to give your info and dealers contact you. Which is ok, if you're ready for that, but I'm just looking and the local dealers don't have what I'm looking for (I've visited all the websites), so I don't want to be bothered for no reason. Has to be a better way for that site to work.
If the No Haggle Dealership is truly selling at a competitive price then it would seem prudent to write down their price for the car you want and then go to a regular dealer and see if you can get them to beat it. You don't have to tell them that you know what the No Haggle Guy is selling it for, but at least you know the most that you would have to pay.
Spring your local dealer since area comps is a good idea, but your local dealer will tell you his cars have better features or blah blah so you would have to be super prepared and know all the packages.
In the Chicago suburbs, all, of the Mercedes and Volvo dealers are ' one price stores' . I have to disagree with your statement that the model of selling is a benefit to the consumer. When I do research on used cars, using Kelly Blue Book, the dealers priced the cars around $5,000 to as much as $,8000 more than what they bought the car for, either from a auction or private party. I understand about Pac's and reconditioning costs to the dealer, but when all the dealers lock out the consumer from negotiating, the have a monopoly.
The last used car I bought was from a no-haggle store. The car had a crack in the windshield and some bumper damage. For the price they wanted, I was not willing to accept the damage and they were not willing to fix it. They ended up coming up on the trade in. So if you have a trade in, you might be able to get some negotiation at a no-haggle store.
I went to find the best car ...com They want your name phone email and first born before u can sign in, watch a video, then u still DONT get a quote. It’s just a lead for dealers. Shameful, because I love these videos
Hi Scar Let, Geoff here from FindTheBestCarPrice.com. Don't worry, you don’t have to provide any personal details to access all the published car deals, videos, and email templates on the website. And I definitely don't want anyone else's children, one is enough for me! However, when/if you find the car you want and are ready to line up your deal, you can get a better price than published deals by getting prices from local dealers and negotiating with them over email. I provide a service that helps you get connected to those dealers and that does require your contact info (still free). Yes, dealers want your info to sell you a car, BUT buyers need dealer info as well in order to start a bidding war to drive down the price on a car. I have a free guide on the website that teaches you how to do negotiate over email along with email samples and a few tricks to try to reduce the pain of the whole process. I'd be happy to help answer any questions you or others may have, just drop me a line, my contact info is on the website.
FindtheBestCarPrice After seeing Scar Let’s comment I went to your site and was immediately greeting with one of those “put your email here to sign up for SPAM” pop ups. First red flag. I then entered in a Ford Mustang on your form to see the price, and JUST as Scar Let said, you require WAY too much information just so that I can see if your prices even align to the norms. I’m not going to put my Street Address, phone number, and name into your website just to check on pricing. If you want to be a trusted source for pricing information, then publish your prices. If you want to sell user data to car dealers and be added to the list of scam websites, continue on this path.
@@FindTheBestCarPrice Dealers don't need your address or phone number to negotiate over email, they need it to harass you by phone and send you trash in the mail. It doesn't matter if you say you will use the info responsibly, you're some anonymous guy behind a screen asking for way too much personal information.
@@FindTheBestCarPrice Your site is complete BS. Requiring someone to provide a significant amount of information BEFORE providing any kind of useful information is a total scam. Phone number and email address... Are you kidding me??? Just what I need - my phone ringing off the hook from dealer "follow ups" and an inbox full of "offers". Call a spade a spade and a scam a scam, Your site totally ranks right up there SCAM.
That is because the customer owns the trade-in and the customer is in control of what they will accept for their vehicle the same as a dealer is in control of what they will sell their vehicle for. Trade-ins are always negotiable. Dealers can't set a one price trade in price because every trade is different even if it is the same year, model and options.
I’ve always walked out of the no haggle guys. They are way too over priced. It is never the best deal. The best deal at the other guy’s is always better for you in the end. Now, it make take you awhile to get there, but negotiating has always been better for me. I think people get fooled by the, this is it take it or leave it and don’t shop around. It also helps to go at the end of the month, or end of the year.
We have bought several cars from CarMax. They have stood by the cars (replaced a transmission on a Jeep) and we get the cars serviced by them. Best of all, we sold a car to them. We bought a Porsche at the dealership. They did not want our Lincoln. They told us to go have lunch while they prepared the Porsche for us. Instead, we took the Lincoln to CarMax and sold it to them on the spot. Easy, peasy!
I went to a used car dealer couple weeks ago and they added on a additional $5000 in fees. I went to a second dealer last week and they added a additional $3000 in fees and they said if I am paying cash it would be a additional $2000 convenience fee. I sent emails to 8 different dealers requesting to know what additional fee is required beside tax and registration. None of them answered that question.
That's insane. Either you got super unlucky or live somewhere weird where every dealership are sleazeballs. I'd go out of state before buying from a place like that.
The worst part was I left the second dealer and I forget to collect my license after he ran my credit. I went back the next day and no one can find my license. I ask the manager to check the camera so he could trace the agent that was working with me. He said his camera is not as good as the fbi. I said my license most likely will be where ever my credit application is. The manager look on the front desk and my application was sitting on top of some other papers. I can see that they don't take effort in securing customers personal information.. I made a police report and its considered lost since I realize I didn't get it back when I was already home. I only bought 7 cars in my lifetime and only 1 was from a dealer. First time filling out a credit application at a dealer and that was my experience.
well, couldn't an "old fashioned" dealership just call themselves one price to prevent you from negotiating a bad price? hard to know if it truly truly is their best price
We have a big dealer here who is the same. He prices his cars about 2500 over what the book says. I called, Nope ! Thats the price. Argues that he has scoured the internet and his prices are in line. I say no I can prove it. So I do and he says well it doesn't have this certain radio or some BS... Two days later the price drops 500.....no sale, a week later drops 1000, I was waiting for another one and someone grabbed it. It was still overpriced, but I hate when they act like they are the gurus of cars and we as consumers know nothing. Like we are stupid and what they say is the be all end all.
I've purchased one new car in my life at a traditional car dealer and NEVER AGAIN... conversely have purchased from carmax too and after the experience with the traditional dealer we are going back to the "no haggle" method... it just feels more transparent, less predatory and less games in regards to if they think you qualify or what they think they can sell you... Im in my 40s I don't believe the overly friendly sales people, and I know how extended warranties and such work and yet they still think they can trick you into it by fast talking and keeping you sitting there all day...ugh...no thanks
I was on CarMax and saw the price 2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV listed at $22,998* so I went to the asterisk and saw the following. I know tax, title, tags have to be paid. My question is the $399 CarMax processing mandatory? *Price excludes tax, title, tags and $399 CarMax processing fee (not required by law). Price assumes that final purchase will be made in the State of FL, unless vehicle is non-transferable. Vehicle subject to prior sale. Applicable transfer fees are due in advance of vehicle delivery and are separate from sales transactions.
Thanks for the video. Carmax in my area is always at least $2k higher than every where else. Also, they sell you a car based on 15k miles a year but when you trade in they base it on 12k miles per year.
@NWKB yes, I bought from Carmax back in 2002 in North Carolina and had a good deal back then but when we went back to trade for a newer car they screwed us on our trade in with the mileage thing. Several years later in another state, I looked at buying from Carmax again. I noticed that their prices are normally $2K to $3K higher then everywhere else.
1. New Car "one price" dealers....what about rebates that the general public will not receive, such as First Responder, Military, or College Grad which corporate tend to offer? 2. Please cover how dealers get new cars...do they ask for specific packages or colors. 3. How does the process of ordering a car work? Thanks A Ton!!!!
CarMax charges more than other dealers and not even close. Quick story, I traded my 2016 Nissan Altima 3.5 SR for a new 2019 Camry XSE V6 about 10 months ago. Trade-in value was $13,149, money left on my loan was $9860 (I made a good profit :-)) dealer turned around and sold the car for just $14,999. While doing my research, CarMax's price for a 2016 Nissan Altima SR, NOT V6 and more mileage was $16,999. Do your research and you'll find yourself avoiding Carmax.
I am going through this scenario now. The problem isn’t a choice of wanting to haggle OR to have a better experience. From a buyer’s perspective, it is that the dealership is forcing you to trust them. I like the idea of a no haggle deal, but I do not like being forced into a trusting relationship with a dealer. I have 30+ years of buying cars and that distrust doesn’t go away over night. I am looking at a car right now at a one price shop. I asked the dealer what they paid for the vehicle, what was their cost to certify, what was their PAC, profit … You get the idea. They would give me none of that information. Trust goes both ways. I am not trying to screw the dealer out of making some profit on a vehicle, I understand how business works. But I think there needs to be a certain level of transparency if they expect me to trust them that this is their best price. From the dealer: “This pandemic has caused prices to sky rocket and unfortunately I am not gaining anything from this vehicle besides a worthy customer. To us, we’re pretty much losing money on this so that’s a sacrifice we’re willing to take.” Love the videos and the podcasts. Keep up the good work.
So I've bought and sold several (probably around 10) cars/SUVs at CarMax - and while I KNOW I've paid more than I could have at a "let's make a deal" dealership - I've been able to find a car that was either very difficult to find elsewhere or what some might say is "rare" - I know I'm paying somewhat of a premium but I believe (overall) I get decent service (during the sale) and have actually come out ahead in selling cars to CarMax. Recently I bought a 2017 Mazda MX-5 (Miata) RF (the hard top) with 4200 miles on it, in very very good cosmetic condition and in the color I wanted for about $500-800 more than what I would expect to pay at another dealership - IF - I could find one as nice as I did. You almost never will find "the best price" at a "no haggle" type dealership but my time is worth _something_ and I've been (relatively) happy with my experiences. BTW, when I bought new I've been a pretty loyal customer at other dealerships as well and they typically "remember" me - building a bit of a rapport with a salesperson usually helps when it comes time to buy/sell in a few years too....
My experience with no haggle pricing was that they were significantly more expensive than another Honda dealer in town that negotiated and they didn’t want to meet or beat the other dealer. So I went to the other dealer and got a better price on the same car and the no haggle dealer called with a better deal that was still significantly off what the other dealer gave me. Now if we had real no haggle prices like Tesla...that is the future and everyone is getting the same deal...at that moment in time.
I dislike dealerships... and it's very likely that they dislike me. I generally avoid "fixed price/no haggle" dealerships, as I feel the prices are overly inflated. I have learned to go in WITHOUT a trade, & sell it on my own... one less thing to negotiate. My last two purchases have been the best and worst experiences. In July 2016, I bought a Ram 2500 crew cab short bed 4x4 Tradesman with the 6.4L Hemi. I dealt with the internet manager. Sticker was $45.8k. Final selling price was $35.2k. I was happy with that. Negotiations took less than 5 minutes. I was through F&I in under 20 minutes... no upselling. I had financing below 2%. Did I leave money on the table? Probably... but it was such a smooth and relatively painless transaction that I didn't mind. Fast forward to September 2018. I go to buy a leftover 2017 Focus ST (ST3 trim). I told them right up front that I wanted 25% off MSRP, as I could have gotten that deal at another dealership a few months earlier. When they asked why I didn't, I told them that I wanted to get through chemo before I made any major purchases... which was true. They insisted on running the tired old game of "wear 'em down, make 'em wait". Seven hours later, I have my 25% off MSRP deal... (MSRP: $31,300 final selling price: $23,497)... decent, but not spectacular. I get into F&I, and they try to throw me a 4.99% APR. This REALLY set my jaw... I should have walked. My credit score is between 840 and 850, and you're going to throw THAT kind of rate at me? I already had financing arranged at my credit union. They told me the deal was contingent upon Ford credit financing, but that I could refinance in 90 days if I wanted to. I begrudgingly did the deal... so their "wear 'em down/make 'em wait" tactic worked... dammit. When I spoke to my credit union, he said that I did NOT have to wait 90 days... and as soon as I got the DMV paperwork, to come in & we'd do the refi. Two weeks later, I refi'd the car through my credit union at 2.5% APR. He told me that dealerships tell you that 90 day thang so that they get their money first, and Ford credit gets screwed. I have dealt with this particular dealership before... in 2013, I leased a fully loaded Ford Edge Limited. They were trying to get me to sign a lease at $450/mo... to which I replied... "with my credit score, WHY would I pay a penny more than the "Red Carpet Lease" which was only $399/mo??? There again, they dragged out the process for 6-7 hours but got the red carpet lease price, so yea... I was like the guy in Fargo... "gimme the damned checkbook". Most of my dealings with private owners have been MUCH more pleasant. I always have 3 or 4 cars, so it's not like I HAVE to buy a car... which works in my favor... I can typically WALK at any time. But I try and do my homework prior to setting foot on a dealership's lot... typical selling prices, rebates, incentives, etc. I learned the hard way about having a trade-in. When I bought the Ram, I had a 2000 SuperDuty V10 supercab 4x4 with 86,000 miles on it. They offered me $1500 because it had a branded title (which I knew). I put it on CL. Had 3 calls within 2 hours of posting the ad. First person that showed up, drove it around the block, & bought it. Did not haggle on price. Sold it for $5k... bought it for $4200 4 year earlier. When I went to buy the Focus ST, I had an immaculate 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis with 34k miles on it. Again, the dealership wanted to give me $1500. I sold it in ONE DAY on CL for $6k. If you price your car right, it WILL sell fast.
Ford dealerships are the worst about dragging it out all day. I had this same issue happen on my 19 F 150. Got the price I wanted after playing the back and forth game forever, and got to finance with an excellent credit score and they tried to screw me with 6% financing.
Carmax is good if you find a super reliable car under $20,000 with the 150,000 mile “Maxcare”. I’m talking not a penny over $20,000. Yep buying a sticker price $16,000 Carmax car and paying the tax and extra amount in the warranty etc. keeping the total under $20,000. It won’t be the fanciest car with the most luxurious features but you know that the car should last as long as reasonably possible. Anything under the $20,000 mark is a safe option for most people. It’s when you go above that amount, that can make or break it for a lot of Americans. (Income to Debt Ratio, etc) If you want a nicer/bigger car that goes beyond 20,000 negotiate at a dealership for a budget non fancy but reliable SUV. Keep the out the door price under $30,000 if possible. Only do 5 year financing at most. Chances are keeping the same car for longer than 5 years might not always work.
Recently bought a 2017 Camry Le with 26k miles from Carite, no haggle dealer, for $16k and some change after taxes and even a $500 doc fee. I found the same car at Toyota dealers and elsewhere with way more miles and almost $18k after its all said and done. I honestly got mine at a steal and was lucky to get it so low with new tires, brakes, fluids etc. it has a couple dings but clean history. These places are meant for people with bad credit scores because they accept literally almost anyone or looking for newer cars, priced competitively and to buy quickly even get a 5 day no questions asked return policy. Personally I wouldn’t buy a brand new car from here because they’re priced just the same and you can probably get a better deal at dealers because they usually offer free maintenance up to certain mileage.
You'll never get the "best price" at a one price. You pay a premium for the joy of being told what you will buy the car for. One-price are great for comparison shopping. Zach, you also make it sound like shopping around might only net you $100 or $500 difference when in reality it's usually thousand$$$ between different companies on new cars from a little shopping around.
No haggle dealers are not the cheapest deal to be had. The most obvious area of contention is under allowing on trade ins based on their supposed wholesale pricing. Dealers compete so aggressively, that negotiation down from invoice is not difficult.
Carmax cars are usually $3,000 if not $5,000 above price they would be at a regular franchise dealership. I will say yes for the most part their cars are in better condition from what I've seen compared to dealerships, especially luxury models. And they give more in terms of trade versus regular dealer.
I don't agree that it makes the buying process easier guys, once you get to the business office they give you the business! They try everything to get you to buy services you don't need or want at inflated prices. Some things maybe ok but most is useless. I have walked on deals five times because the business manager wouldn't let me just buy and go. It shouldn't take an hour in the business office it should take 15 mins max period. I have arrived at home to find two messages from the dealer to come back and finish buying the car. Fair pricing is good but the business office shafts and take the joy out of buying period.
Interesting experience recently, I was looking for a used car in Carmax, a Local store, and Carvana. I've looked at Cargures for the inventory and price before went to the Local store to negotiate a deal, the first experience that comes to me is the trade-in price, Local store first offers at $5500. I just laugh at it, and finally, they will match the trade-ins from Carmax, but with added $750 for other fees. I did homework before went to this dealer for trade-ins. Carmax offered me 40% more, and Carvana almost doubles the trade-in price for me. So, I just went ahead ordered a car from Carvana. I know this maybe not the best price in town, but I am sure is the best price for trade-ins.
I don’t love the apple comparison regarding used cars. ONLY because the product is always new and there is no risk on behalf of the customer. No I don’t like to haggle but I will never understand paying more because I don’t like to haggle! Just charge the most competitive price from the jump. A simple online search will confirm anyones suspicion. They always seem to call back. Once I have that experience, I don’t go back. I also don’t buy cars when I HAVE to buy a car. Haggling is worth a few thousand dollars. It’s NEVER a few hundred in my experience.
Really because carmax wants more for the same trim level and same options 2019 Silverado with 15k miles than the Chevrolet dealer wants for the same new 2020 Silverado. There’s an 8k difference!!!
IF THERE IS DAMAGE TO THE "ONE PRICE CAR" THEN YOU CAN ASK THEM TO REDUCE THE PRICE BY WHAT IT WILL COST YOU TO REPAIR IT ...... THIS IS TRUE ON USED CARS BECAUSE IN GENERAL THE MARKUP IS HIGHER ON A USED CAR ....... YOU CAN ALWAY ASK IF THEY WILL GIVE YOU A WARRENTY IF THEY SAY NO THEN REQUEST THE PRICE BE REDUCED TO PURCHASE A 1 YEAR WARRENTY
I just had an awful experience with a (major) dealer where I arrived (after much schlepping on a hot hot day) for a confirmed appointment to see a used car that I was assured was there. I was then led to new cars, when I insisted on the car I was there to see after a wait I was told it had been sold the day before. Bait and switched and angry, I left scathing reviews on yelp and google which brought responses of "we're shocked, shocked I tell you." I called the number they left which was an automated nonspecific voicemail. And oh! -- the car I wanted that was "sold" is still advertised on their website 5 days later! Crooks swearing they are not crooks. I'll be damned if I ever go to a dealer again. If I have to pay $2 - 3000 more than it's worth for a no haggle price on a car I know I will get than so be it. Other choice is private sellers which is also a scam minefield.
Same thing happened to me 3 years ago in Las Vegas don’t want to name the dealer Sahara and Decatur NW corner dealer. The car I was supposed to see wasn’t there and the salesman wasn’t there they just wanted me on the lot. Scum bags and greedy dealers.
Thank you. That is very helpful as I am the most gullible person alive when it comes to buying cars. My preferred dealer (they have really helped me in the past) is a one price dealership and since I have been take for a ride so many times before but hate negotiating, I wanted to make sure that I wasn't making a mistake going with them rather than searching around other dealerships. I have always used the USAA Car Buying program, but USAA stopped that this past September. This alleviated my fears.
Just bought my used 2017 Nissan Murano SV 33k miles from Echo Park from Grand Prarie Tx. It had everything I wanted for $19,300 including tax, license, registration and fees. I did the email route and explained to all the Nissan dealerships I couldn’t come in due being high risk and they either ignored me, lied to me, or still tried to get me to come in, while bad mouthing the bargain bin dealership like Echo Park. Also the prices at the dealerships were about 4K higher on average to a comparable Murano. I have no problem with the sales person and dealer making a small profit off me to make a living, but the internet sales managers were outright insulting and really didn’t read my requests and questions. They preferred to bombard me with automated emails. Now that I have the vehicle I want, they all the sudden want to wheel and deal.
I went to a no haggle used car dealership and and was still there all freaking day…. It saved zero time. After exhaustive research on the Internet I wanted the specific car they had and I accepted the terms quickly for the trade in and the new car price but they still played stupid games. I kinda wish I had tried my hand at negotiation; I am a realtor after all.
I never understood why cars are about the only thing we negotiate. I am going to lease a new car soon, and I am going to tell whichever dealer I go to, to give me their best best up front, and I will either accept it or I won't, no negotiations.
The problem with that strategy is that they will never give you their best price in the first go unless they are a no haggle dealership. They will do everything they can to force you to negotiate if you don't accept their first price, which will inevitably be too high.
I like one price but I think there will always be negotiation dealers because people like to feel like they got a better deal than other people. There was a store, I think JC penny, that went to a one price model. No sales no specials. Just the lowest possible price for the customer and they lost tons of money. People don't want cheap products, they want expensive products at a discount.
I bought a car from CarMax and got screwed big time. I thought it was a good price and they gave me a clean Carfax report. And after having the car a few weeks I found out that the car had been in a really bad accident and I'm guessing, the first owner of the car had the car fixed without reporting it to their Insurance company. And the longer I drove the car the more problem I found. The car was a money pit. The air condition went out after having the car for 1 month. And so many other high cost repairs followed.
These no-haggle pricing dealerships are a joke. I just traded in my 2017 Dodge Durango for a 2013 Highlander at a different dealership BECAUSE of the first dealership's "no-haggle" policy. I asked the manager how it was fair for him to tell me what my car was worth and then tell me what his vehicle was worth and if I didn't like it, it was tough beans. Literally argued with him for about half of an hour. He offered 18,500 on my vehicle. Fair market price was 25-26K which I GUARANTEE, he would have sold it for. The car he was selling was subpar, but did have low miles which was the only reason I even bothered looking at it in the first place. The sales manager was pissed because at the end of the day, the general manager in the fancy suit telling me my car was only worth $18,500 lost him a sale he spent most of the day working on. I politely told the general manager (slick suit-wearing MFer) where he could stuff his car, went down the road about 10 minutes, haggled with another dealership and got $19,576 out of my vehicle for what was arguable a better highlander (granted with more miles) for about $3K cheaper. I was content with that. Was the second dealership going to turn around and resell my car for $25K? Probably, but I got what I wanted and they got what they wanted. Win-Win. Leaving reviews today, guess which one is getting the 4-5 star and which is getting 1 star.
Its doc fees. Everyone pays doc fees. It is only an issue of what state you're in and whether the state caps the amount a dealer can charge for doc fees. In out state it is $187.50 and no matter what dealer you go to in the state it is all the same. If the dealer elects to charge a doc fee then they have to charge it to every customer or elect to not charge a doc fee at all. To my knowledge every dealer in out state elected to charge it since every other dealer elected to charge it. We even had know-it-all attorneys try to get out of paying it and they all lost. They all paid it. The only way not to pay it is to not buy a vehicle from a dealer.
Bananas are .63# lb. The checker rings it up. Those bananas are gone in 3-4 days or so. Your 5-6+ year deal can become tough. The lender might tell you "that's tough". I can still buy non-negotiable bananas.
Zack: "Am I getting a fair deal?" "Yes!!!" Zack: "Alright!!!" Always some spice between this father/son team. And always fantastic tips from Zack's dad, who explains things really well if he can actually finish his sentences between Zack's usually snarky interruptions. Thank you both for all of your videos!
Hate when the dealers think they have to ask such personal questions to me while looking around in the lot. Cant they wait until i come inside to ask THEM my questions.
I tend to stay away from “no haggle” dealers. Saturn folded in part because of that policy. Through the years we have established a price/value attitude and can just walk away. They are building more of that color ,that equipment as we read this. Shop on the internet first,get ideas on finance second and brace yourself for Smiley in the back office. Just say thank you ,NO,and walk.
New cars are a commodity. Competitive bidding is your only chance. 'One Price' dealers routinely sell cars much higher than competitive bidding. I'm tired of watching people I care about fall on these grenades. Used car pricing is just idiotic in the country.
etronz Just got to do the research. Sometimes they have good deals, but you have to check just able everyday. Used car prices should normalize in a few months.
Aren’t some dealers motivated to sell a car say like at the end of the month or quarter to meet their quota, because you said some dealers will let you walk. I know that happened to me once I hit the dealer at the end of the month and the salesman said they had to sell one more car by the end of the day (it was 6 0’clock in the evening) to meet their quota and the salesman said what do we need to do to make a deal today and I said well give me 10% off ( too bad I didn’t say 12% ) and this was on a new model year Lexus. The car I wanted was being unloaded from the transport truck that day and the deal was done, I was happy and that was by far the easiest car that I ever bought.
How do you explain a dealership that is no haggle price when you call for the price of vehicle out the door no trade after doing research and narrowing it down to three cars from several dealerships. This was for a used vehicle that had about 16000 to 19000 miles on it (former rental car) Their quote was over competitors by $2000. When asked why they said their cars were inspected and certified and others were not. It should be noted all their cars were listed as call us for best deal. No specific price listed even on car guru. After thanking them for quote I advised was going to other dealerships as their quote was way out of line. One week later got call from dealer asking if I would be interested in a price reduction to buy car. New price was now in line with other dealerships (give or take $200) This was due to our buying car from them in past and could offer us an even better deal on no haggle price out the door.It is hard to tell if no haggle means no haggle anymore. Comments. I checked back on line and they still have car listed for sale as call for best price. They have had car for over 45 days now.
I was going to ask this question and I’m glad you laid it out straight. However, my question as a follow up was going to be can I negotiate the trade in value?
I suspect that you can because their “one price” price is not their bottom line and they want your car and your money and it helps lock down competition.
CARMAX prices always end with 998. 18,998 or 22,998 or 35998 etc. Instead of just making it 36,000 they feel the need to make it 35998 'no haggle' lol. I tried to talk them down on a price one day & they basically laughed at me & told me where the exit door was. The place is something else...
HORRIBLE! Autonation delivered the car we purchased dented and scratched “from transit.” We found Whataburger wrappers IN THE CAR. We contacted them to fix their damage. They said there is no haggle pricing and nothing they can do for transit damage and they couldn’t detail their car. Wtf does the “no haggle” price have anything to do with them fixing their error? We didn’t buy the car with the damage on it. Nor did we buy the food that was all over the interior. We returned the car immediately on 5 day money back guarantee. Be careful. The no haggle has turned into permission to abuse the customer.
People say CarMax is over priced. Some are, you gotta do your homework. What I’ve been like for and comparing to dealers, CM had been a little cheaper.
I've successfully negotiated at a "no haggle" store before...not Carmax but a local dealer. When I offered a price they said "we price our cars according to the market therefore the price you see is the price you pay". I respectfully said, the price I'd like to pay is x and I am prepared to do it now. They came back in 10 minutes and the deal was on. Saved $800. I think it worked because they knew if I didn't buy it, they may end up lowering the price the next week anyway (which they do, I've analyzed their inventory week over week -I have too much time on my hands). Just do your research on apples to apples (year, mileage, trim etc) as much as possible, know what is fair, and be prepared to wait or buy somewhere else.
yeah a salesman tried making it seem like the car i was interested in would be gone tomorrow if i didn't buy it the same day although I knew it has been on their lot 119 days.
I'd do ANYTHING (including paying a bit more) to avoid setting foot in a dealership (i.e., organized crime franchise) that puts me through old-fashioned haggling games.
Hell no. The dealer had a used car I want, they priced at 55K and won’t budge. It has been a month, they lowered price to 51K and calling me everyday to go in and talk a deal. The GM told me he guarantee he will work out a deal with me. I asked him what about no haggle? He said he only does this for me. I laughed and tell him don’t break the rules for me, and he should stick with the price since they are so confident with it
The car didn’t sell like they expected. It was a whole month lol obviously they will lower the price
This is exactly the problem I see with no haggle. They expect you to believe them when they give you the "bottom price", then they drop it. Which explicitly means that it was NOT their bottom price. If they had priced that vehicle at $51k maybe it would not have sat there for a month.
Excellent talking point! Sadly I've never been blessed with the skills to fight for a bargain. The dealer I have built a relationship with over 25 years went "No Hassle" pricing about ten years ago. The prices are clear and a quick internet search shows you right where you stand.
I went to a no haggle dealer. Did my research on what I thought I should pay. They came in $2k under my target. Sold.
I'm buying my first car since 2008 and this a "no haggle" dealership is a bit of a new concept to me. I will admit that I am skeptical because inflated prices and having to haggle has just been part of the process forever. However, being "no haggle" doesn't mean that you don't negotiate anything, as I got an "out the door" quote from AutoNation today that includes $509 for "Interior/Exterior Protection" and another $509 for "Protection - Dent". So, I will have to be "negotiate" with them and firmly tell them to take that crap off the quote, since it's just typical dealer bs. They also listed a "Documentation Fee" of $699.00. Now, a "Documentation Fee" is an expected fee but $699 is too high, so I will have to try to negotiate that down to $300 or $400 at the absolute worst. So, even in a "no haggle" environment, they will still try some of the old dealership tricks.
I’ve purchased 5 vehicles from CarMax and it’s been a pleasurable experience. The cars has has always been in optimal condition and I’ve developed a great relationship with a sales associate. My time is worth it to pay $800 above MSRP for a stress free 2hr visit vice weeks of haggle and a 7hr Saturday at said dealership.
Agreed. You still need to do your homework and I will still negotiate with dealers where I can but if you do your research, you can often find cars from "no haggle" sellers that are within 500-$1000 of a realistic "optimal negated price" which for many is worth the trade off for ease of transaction.
You also overpaid.
I guess you got your card from Disneyland because that is complete BS, go to a Carmax now, and tell me if it’s a pleasurable experience
@@lordalmighty7323 no lies told. I can only speak to my experience, Sir
I disagree carmax cars are at least $1500 higher than every other dealership on the planet.
I don't know where you live, but from reading the near microscopic print in used car ads in my area, the ADERTISED prices of used cars at CarMax are HIGHER than most dealers....but then I have to contend with "administrative fees" that are added on to the price of those cheaper cars, and guess what? The formerly cheaper cars are now a few hundred dollars more expensive. In my area, dealers charge 2 different add-on fees, that in the worst case so far totaled nearly $2,000. Typically, the fees add "only" $1,000.
In my personal experience, you can find an occasional deal on a car at CarMax, but most of the inventory is overpriced. It just depends on whether you want an overpriced car with reasonable fees....or a cheaper car with ridiculously high fees (that you may or may not be able to negotiate away).
Try 2k
Yeah but at a traditional dealership the ad on fees you can negotiate or walk away. Most people dont even know the doc fee cap for there state so again carmax cars are priced higher. But if they have what you want and you cant find it anywhere else it might make sense 🤷♂️
For some reason with my local market carmax can sometimes be cheaper if you have a car transported in. Also I’ve noticed if you have an account and save cars for later on it there’s been a few that have dropped by exactly 1k after a few weeks because they are sitting in inventories. If someone wants to do a contactless delivery no haggle dealer like carmax or carvana I suggest picking about 5-10 specific cars you would be interested in, waiting about a month and see what happens, some will be not available anymore but there’s a good chance one of them will be reduced. Also another tip if you’re interested in financing I would think about your own bank but Carvana financial does NOT do a hard credit inquiry for preapproval but carmax absolutely does do a hard credit inquiry for preapproval and you want to have a limited amount of those. Hope some of this was useful!
@@HemiMuscle Carmax adds doc fees and such too. If you scroll, it shows you the total with all fees.
Went to an AutoNation, no Haggle price. AND I DIDN'T TRY TO HAGGLE. Did my homework on my vehicle. Pretty easy process. But you can haggle on your trade-in value! I did and got an even better deal!!! Free on RUclips advice from Car Edge was invaluable and I had no problem refusing the backend protection products. TY to all your team
I have mixed feelings about the topic:
1. The "one price" may move based on an aging policy, change in the comparable average as often as daily, or even on a manager's whim.
2. There is a theory, that the prices are kept artificially high, as though dealers are competitors - yet, they also want to preserve a certain profit and thus, help each other do so inherently.
3. How does this kind of dealership deal with the approach of nearing making an incentive (bogey) etc. ?
I bought a car from Carmax back in 2009. Got a great, low mileage 2006 Toyota Corolla with +/-49,000 miles. I have NEVER had such a painless experience. No ridiculous "fees", no trying to work me over in F&I, and no attempts to sell me a line of BS. The last car we bought from another dealership on the last day of February, and we found a "unicorn car" that turned out to be a real steal; but dealing with the dealership and the F&I ass hat was a real hassle.
No-haggle pricing is good in concept, but not necessarily in practice.
When I bought my last car I had a CPO car I wanted to buy from a one-price dealership, however they simply did not do a good job in doing their comparison or thought their $h!+ smelled better than everyone else's. The car at the on-price shop was ~$1K more than for a vehicle that was a year newer, had less miles and more options. Even when I pointed out 3 different local CPO cars (same model) that were listed for less (without all the fake things to "lower" the price), they would not move.
I can certainly respect them for sticking to their process, but I also didn't buy their car. In the end they did a few more price drops and ultimately sold it for what I had told them I would have been willing to pay for it. I held no grudge, as they are the dealership I use for much of my work.
I just shopped around for a truck at about 7-8 used car dealerships. Every single one of them refused to negotiate and also everyone of them added products or fees that raised their internet price that were also non-negotiable. I simply kept looking until I found a price and extra products I could live with. This is in Orange County, California.
I offered my car for sale on several websites and the offer from carmax was higher than most. I suspect that because of CarMax’s no haggle policy they are selling their cars with a price buffer so they can offer more for used cars and shut down competitors. Just a thought I had.
A simple process where they screw you. The price is right there, overpriced.
It saves you time ,how much is your time worth , I think this is the best way , everyone does research before going in , the experience is much better .I am glad you finally told all these people watching ,I work in a one price store and its the only way to buy a car .it only takes time to find the right car you really want and can afford .nice job guys !
Thanks Todd for being a part of the future. I have been advocating for years that one price stores are the way to go for everyone involved. It just really takes all the BS out of the process. Stay safe and thanks for sharing. Ray
Carmax does it and every car they sell is overpriced, so from a business perspective, yeah , I’d agree with Zach “ they’re pretty successful “ but from a potential customers perspective, I’d say there’s zero chance I’ll buy a car from there.
Adrian Denson yup. They’re good at marketing. Much better value elsewhere have to work a bit.
They are good selling the hype of no hassle pricing at the expensive of over paying on large mark up on the ACV form the trade in and auctions.
CarMax can be overpriced, however, the car you buy from CarMax will be in top-notch condition as they do spend the money to recondition the cars. AutoNation cars can be priced less on average, but not everything they sell is in excellent condition. Don't have any experience with carvana.
CarMax is only good for people that have bad credit because they will get you in a decent car for decent terms. For people with 750 and above credit don’t ever ever buy a car there. I would never shop there again. I spoke to them for about 20 mins before I realized this. Tried to put me in a car at 9% interest with a 790 FICO score. My last rate was 2.5%. I ended up financing straight through Tesla anyways when I realized I wanted a model 3.
VR GAMER84 dam .. that bites 9% I a pay 3.25% with no money down .I hate to see what my rate their be their then .
Love your show. Carmax and Carvana appear to be higher price. Some of Carmax inventory seems to be more expensive than a similar new car. Although I have never heard of anyone complaining about their prices?
It would have been nice if you touched on fees at dealerships like Carvana and Carmax.
BS, these used car prices are 2k + over priced and wont move on those prices and try to get you on interest rates and a high "low" payment
Compared to what or for who? I'm sure most savvy buyers can negotiate a "fair" price but a LOT of buyers can't.... Between F&I guy shenanigans and 4-square hi-jinx most "shrewd" buyers don't realize until much later on (if at all) how badly they were worked over. Ultimately, if you are able to find the car for sale by a private seller, arrange your own financing (or pay cash) - that would be the best way to buy a car....
I've been shopping for a specific used vehicle and comparing everything available online. Carmax gives you better trade-in/cash than traditional dealers. The prices always look better at "traditional" dealerships but once you get the OTD price it goes up 10-20% so that makes them more expensive than the Carmax then you can negotiate them down to Carmx price or you might save $100-500 dollars if you have time, leverage, good at negotiation skills, or the dealer is desperate to get rid of the car.
Two places you can help yourself at a 1 price dealer is with your trade in and if you get your own, better financing.
Had a great experience at echo park. The local Hyandai dealer was the typical unpleasant experience. The prices of the car at both locations was very close.
However, the dealers had many "features" and packages they said were MANDATORY. Things like...1k/year gps. WTH. No thanks. All this stuff was optional at Echo Park.
Also, the numbers in a loan calculator added up at EP. At the dealership...eh, they gave us a range. Why? 2+2 5, unless you are slipping in some numbers.
Echo Park was quick, easy and painless. I'll never go to a traditional dealership again.
I went to a Carmax and was very interested in a Jeep Liberty but noticed gashes on a couple of tires. I asked the manager if they would replace the tires or give me a price that would reflect the cost of buying replacement tires and they said "No." I walked out. That's how easy it was for me to find out that I don't mind common-sense negotiating.
I loath and despise no haggle price dealers. It is insulting that they think their price is the lowest based upon their own research that is soley on comps.
I don't know where you live, but I have NEVER seen a no haggle dealer publish the claim that they have the lowest prices.
What I find to be truly insulting is the trend to " marketplace" pricing. It IMPLIES that a similar car is available at other dealers for a similar price....and therefore you won't find it anywhere else for a better price.
GM tried one price marketing with Saturn. When was the last time you saw one of those? I’ve been in the car biz for more than 35 yrs. and am amazed what the young keyboard experts are spewing
Another angry old man that hangs on to his outdated ancient ways of doing business!
I agree with this. Just bought a new car and one dealer tried to tell me they had the lowest price anywhere in a 50 mile radius. CarGurus and Carfax made it really easy for me to prove that loaf wrong as there were multiple vehicles with higher trim levels at the same price or same trim level at a lower price. (I was trying to use this as leverage to get the price lowered but they wouldn't budge) The sales rep had nothing to say after, but continued to try to get me to come down to the dealership.
They have relatively lower prices than pre haggle out the door price the dealership first quotes you.
I know a friend who negotiated for a free spare tire and wheel to replace the inflator kit at a one price store.
A rare event but it did happen.
Bought a new car today. Unfortunately places like Carmax and Carvana dont sell new cars. So my wife and I spent all evening haggling with the dealership. Went to the first one because they advertised a vehicle for $28,000. When we get there and drive it it suddenly becomes a $35,000 vehicle. We walked out went across town didnt get catfished on the next car.
If it's priced right, then of course you're not getting a discount. A car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I think most dealerships are very competitive these days, it's very easy for anyone to compare prices, dealers that over price their cars are only hurting themselves.
I was the first person to "like" this video......do I win something? If not, can I negotiate?
You will receive many Gold Star Stickers in the afterlife!
You win first place in stupid.
@@laid07 that was pretty savage bro🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Lol I went to a place that called them a one price dealership and they tried ti charge me 1300 for doc fees, 2500 for powder coated wheels that they advertised the car with, and another 2500 for ceramic coating they said they already put on the car. They didn’t cause the car had all kinds of swirls on it. The place was in Southern California call Beamers and Teslers if anyone is wondering.
Even with these places, you have to do research. They have car priced correctly.... sometimes. Just have to do some homework.
I asked a salesman from a dealership who sells at fixed prices for a $400 discount on a top trim model and he said yes. So you can in some cases get a better price from asking. It might be because the 2021 models are coming in and the dealer needs to get rid of the 2020's. It also depends on the make of the car. You probably won't get any further discount from this dealer on a Toyota Yaris.
Unfortunately some stress free dealers still hang on to $400 doc fees!
Dicks.... Doc fees, what a joke.
I disagree. I think one-price dealers are just perpetuating a business model that is only advantageous to the dealers themselves. Without the ability to negotiate on something like a vehicle, the dealers can control the market prices better than ever before. This is partly why nowadays used cars are being priced higher than they ever were previously and now not referencing prices in any nature off certain, respectable and credible, websites such as KBB. Without the ability to negotiate you as the buyer have significantly less pull in the market itself and cannot act as a check and balance for a rapidly increasing used/new car market; one-price dealers can now all raise prices at a steady rate claiming it is competitive while waiting for the right uneducated buyer to purchase said over-priced car and further justify the new seller/dealer based market value. I believe there is also a quite large level of bias when you claim that one-price dealers are the correct route to go and the obvious future, I also think that the justification that the car buying process should be easy and that this is why dealers should/are switching is ridiculous because the whole concept of negotiating on a used car came from the understanding that it is not new and therefore its price is subjective.
Additionally, as much as the buyer wants to negotiate to reduce the price as much as possible, the seller/dealer would want to restrict haggling to guarantee a higher price. Not being able to haggle also opens the doors to unfair prices based on damage or car history. Some dealers will give a "fair" price in their eyes, but in many cases, once you see the car and all its potential issues you would either deem it as a fair price and purchase it or see that there are indeed issues and then negotiate to a more realistic price with a now clear understanding of the actual car. With the concept of "no-haggle," you would just have to deal with these issues and pay the price or leave the problems to the uneducated buyer who forks the money over to the dealer because they claimed it was a "fair and competitive" deal based on cars of "similar" quality (something to note is that many car dealers do not share the metric in which the deem a car to be similar and therefore deserving of certain prices besides very arbitrary things). There is also the idea of a used car needing certain items replaced soon after purchase. It would follow that if a used car I was interested in buying was priced at $13,500 and a piece inside that car would need repairing less than 500 miles later the prices of that item would be knocked off the car value since I would have to be replacing that soon after purchase. However at a one-price dealer that is not something they would accept and is something they would be more inclined to "forget" or not include in their price evaluation. There is potentially more I could state about "no-haggle" and one-price dealers, but those are some of my thoughts on the subject and why I disagree with the business model from the viewpoint of the buyer, especially when it comes to the current and future used car market.
The only problem with the sponsoring website is you have to give your info and dealers contact you. Which is ok, if you're ready for that, but I'm just looking and the local dealers don't have what I'm looking for (I've visited all the websites), so I don't want to be bothered for no reason. Has to be a better way for that site to work.
If the No Haggle Dealership is truly selling at a competitive price then it would seem prudent to write down their price for the car you want and then go to a regular dealer and see if you can get them to beat it. You don't have to tell them that you know what the No Haggle Guy is selling it for, but at least you know the most that you would have to pay.
Spring your local dealer since area comps is a good idea, but your local dealer will tell you his cars have better features or blah blah so you would have to be super prepared and know all the packages.
In the Chicago suburbs, all, of the Mercedes and Volvo dealers are ' one price stores' . I have to disagree with your statement that the model of selling is a benefit to the consumer. When I do research on used cars, using Kelly Blue Book, the dealers priced the cars around $5,000 to as much as $,8000 more than what they bought the car for, either from a auction or private party. I understand about Pac's and reconditioning costs to the dealer, but when all the dealers lock out the consumer from negotiating, the have a monopoly.
The last used car I bought was from a no-haggle store. The car had a crack in the windshield and some bumper damage. For the price they wanted, I was not willing to accept the damage and they were not willing to fix it. They ended up coming up on the trade in. So if you have a trade in, you might be able to get some negotiation at a no-haggle store.
Hodggoblin You probably still got taken to the cleaners.
I went to find the best car ...com
They want your name phone email and first born before u can sign in, watch a video, then u still DONT get a quote. It’s just a lead for dealers. Shameful, because I love these videos
Hi Scar Let, Geoff here from FindTheBestCarPrice.com. Don't worry, you don’t have to provide any personal details to access all the published car deals, videos, and email templates on the website.
And I definitely don't want anyone else's children, one is enough for me!
However, when/if you find the car you want and are ready to line up your deal, you can get a better price than published deals by getting prices from local dealers and negotiating with them over email. I provide a service that helps you get connected to those dealers and that does require your contact info (still free).
Yes, dealers want your info to sell you a car, BUT buyers need dealer info as well in order to start a bidding war to drive down the price on a car.
I have a free guide on the website that teaches you how to do negotiate over email along with email samples and a few tricks to try to reduce the pain of the whole process. I'd be happy to help answer any questions you or others may have, just drop me a line, my contact info is on the website.
FindtheBestCarPrice After seeing Scar Let’s comment I went to your site and was immediately greeting with one of those “put your email here to sign up for SPAM” pop ups. First red flag. I then entered in a Ford Mustang on your form to see the price, and JUST as Scar Let said, you require WAY too much information just so that I can see if your prices even align to the norms.
I’m not going to put my Street Address, phone number, and name into your website just to check on pricing.
If you want to be a trusted source for pricing information, then publish your prices.
If you want to sell user data to car dealers and be added to the list of scam websites, continue on this path.
@@FindTheBestCarPrice Dealers don't need your address or phone number to negotiate over email, they need it to harass you by phone and send you trash in the mail. It doesn't matter if you say you will use the info responsibly, you're some anonymous guy behind a screen asking for way too much personal information.
@@FindTheBestCarPrice Your site is complete BS. Requiring someone to provide a significant amount of information BEFORE providing any kind of useful information is a total scam. Phone number and email address... Are you kidding me??? Just what I need - my phone ringing off the hook from dealer "follow ups" and an inbox full of "offers". Call a spade a spade and a scam a scam, Your site totally ranks right up there SCAM.
@@RobertTaylorRTC I like your response. Who needs to give such personal information? Underwear size, please, "just for our records" lol
I worked at a one price store that would not negotiate the price but they would negotiate the trade in price to get the deal
That is because the customer owns the trade-in and the customer is in control of what they will accept for their vehicle the same as a dealer is in control of what they will sell their vehicle for. Trade-ins are always negotiable. Dealers can't set a one price trade in price because every trade is different even if it is the same year, model and options.
I’ve always walked out of the no haggle guys. They are way too over priced. It is never the best deal. The best deal at the other guy’s is always better for you in the end. Now, it make take you awhile to get there, but negotiating has always been better for me. I think people get fooled by the, this is it take it or leave it and don’t shop around. It also helps to go at the end of the month, or end of the year.
We have bought several cars from CarMax. They have stood by the cars (replaced a transmission on a Jeep) and we get the cars serviced by them. Best of all, we sold a car to them. We bought a Porsche at the dealership. They did not want our Lincoln. They told us to go have lunch while they prepared the Porsche for us. Instead, we took the Lincoln to CarMax and sold it to them on the spot. Easy, peasy!
I went to a used car dealer couple weeks ago and they added on a additional $5000 in fees.
I went to a second dealer last week and they added a additional $3000 in fees and they said if I am paying cash it would be a additional $2000 convenience fee.
I sent emails to 8 different dealers requesting to know what additional fee is required beside tax and registration. None of them answered that question.
You can’t run fast enough if you have to pay a fee for paying cash!!!! That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard
That's insane. Either you got super unlucky or live somewhere weird where every dealership are sleazeballs. I'd go out of state before buying from a place like that.
The worst part was I left the second dealer and I forget to collect my license after he ran my credit. I went back the next day and no one can find my license.
I ask the manager to check the camera so he could trace the agent that was working with me. He said his camera is not as good as the fbi. I said my license most likely will be where ever my credit application is. The manager look on the front desk and my application was sitting on top of some other papers. I can see that they don't take effort in securing customers personal information..
I made a police report and its considered lost since I realize I didn't get it back when I was already home.
I only bought 7 cars in my lifetime and only 1 was from a dealer. First time filling out a credit application at a dealer and that was my experience.
well, couldn't an "old fashioned" dealership just call themselves one price to prevent you from negotiating a bad price? hard to know if it truly truly is their best price
We have a big dealer here who is the same. He prices his cars about 2500 over what the book says. I called, Nope ! Thats the price. Argues that he has scoured the internet and his prices are in line. I say no I can prove it. So I do and he says well it doesn't have this certain radio or some BS... Two days later the price drops 500.....no sale, a week later drops 1000, I was waiting for another one and someone grabbed it. It was still overpriced, but I hate when they act like they are the gurus of cars and we as consumers know nothing. Like we are stupid and what they say is the be all end all.
I've purchased one new car in my life at a traditional car dealer and NEVER AGAIN... conversely have purchased from carmax too and after the experience with the traditional dealer we are going back to the "no haggle" method... it just feels more transparent, less predatory and less games in regards to if they think you qualify or what they think they can sell you... Im in my 40s I don't believe the overly friendly sales people, and I know how extended warranties and such work and yet they still think they can trick you into it by fast talking and keeping you sitting there all day...ugh...no thanks
I was on CarMax and saw the price 2019 Nissan Pathfinder SV listed at $22,998* so I went to the asterisk and saw the following. I know tax, title, tags have to be paid. My question is the $399 CarMax processing mandatory?
*Price excludes tax, title, tags and $399 CarMax processing fee (not required by law). Price assumes that final purchase will be made in the State of FL, unless vehicle is non-transferable. Vehicle subject to prior sale. Applicable transfer fees are due in advance of vehicle delivery and are separate from sales transactions.
Thanks for the video. Carmax in my area is always at least $2k higher than every where else. Also, they sell you a car based on 15k miles a year but when you trade in they base it on 12k miles per year.
@NWKB yes, I bought from Carmax back in 2002 in North Carolina and had a good deal back then but when we went back to trade for a newer car they screwed us on our trade in with the mileage thing. Several years later in another state, I looked at buying from Carmax again. I noticed that their prices are normally $2K to $3K higher then everywhere else.
1. New Car "one price" dealers....what about rebates that the general public will not receive, such as First Responder, Military, or College Grad which corporate tend to offer? 2. Please cover how dealers get new cars...do they ask for specific packages or colors. 3. How does the process of ordering a car work? Thanks A Ton!!!!
CarMax charges more than other dealers and not even close. Quick story, I traded my 2016 Nissan Altima 3.5 SR for a new 2019 Camry XSE V6 about 10 months ago. Trade-in value was $13,149, money left on my loan was $9860 (I made a good profit :-)) dealer turned around and sold the car for just $14,999. While doing my research, CarMax's price for a 2016 Nissan Altima SR, NOT V6 and more mileage was $16,999. Do your research and you'll find yourself avoiding Carmax.
I am going through this scenario now. The problem isn’t a choice of wanting to haggle OR to have a better experience. From a buyer’s perspective, it is that the dealership is forcing you to trust them. I like the idea of a no haggle deal, but I do not like being forced into a trusting relationship with a dealer. I have 30+ years of buying cars and that distrust doesn’t go away over night.
I am looking at a car right now at a one price shop. I asked the dealer what they paid for the vehicle, what was their cost to certify, what was their PAC, profit … You get the idea. They would give me none of that information.
Trust goes both ways. I am not trying to screw the dealer out of making some profit on a vehicle, I understand how business works. But I think there needs to be a certain level of transparency if they expect me to trust them that this is their best price.
From the dealer:
“This pandemic has caused prices to sky rocket and unfortunately I am not gaining anything from this vehicle besides a worthy customer. To us, we’re pretty much losing money on this so that’s a sacrifice we’re willing to take.”
Love the videos and the podcasts. Keep up the good work.
As an update of sorts, the dealer just dropped the “already at the bottom” price $600. I guess there was some wiggle room in there after all.
Saturn tried to do this years ago. Cappy cars, no resale value, and way overvalued, but no haggle pricing. I see how that worked for them.
No that. GM happened to them.
So I've bought and sold several (probably around 10) cars/SUVs at CarMax - and while I KNOW I've paid more than I could have at a "let's make a deal" dealership - I've been able to find a car that was either very difficult to find elsewhere or what some might say is "rare" - I know I'm paying somewhat of a premium but I believe (overall) I get decent service (during the sale) and have actually come out ahead in selling cars to CarMax. Recently I bought a 2017 Mazda MX-5 (Miata) RF (the hard top) with 4200 miles on it, in very very good cosmetic condition and in the color I wanted for about $500-800 more than what I would expect to pay at another dealership - IF - I could find one as nice as I did. You almost never will find "the best price" at a "no haggle" type dealership but my time is worth _something_ and I've been (relatively) happy with my experiences. BTW, when I bought new I've been a pretty loyal customer at other dealerships as well and they typically "remember" me - building a bit of a rapport with a salesperson usually helps when it comes time to buy/sell in a few years too....
My experience with no haggle pricing was that they were significantly more expensive than another Honda dealer in town that negotiated and they didn’t want to meet or beat the other dealer. So I went to the other dealer and got a better price on the same car and the no haggle dealer called with a better deal that was still significantly off what the other dealer gave me. Now if we had real no haggle prices like Tesla...that is the future and everyone is getting the same deal...at that moment in time.
Too true
I dislike dealerships... and it's very likely that they dislike me. I generally avoid "fixed price/no haggle" dealerships, as I feel the prices are overly inflated. I have learned to go in WITHOUT a trade, & sell it on my own... one less thing to negotiate. My last two purchases have been the best and worst experiences.
In July 2016, I bought a Ram 2500 crew cab short bed 4x4 Tradesman with the 6.4L Hemi. I dealt with the internet manager. Sticker was $45.8k. Final selling price was $35.2k. I was happy with that. Negotiations took less than 5 minutes. I was through F&I in under 20 minutes... no upselling. I had financing below 2%. Did I leave money on the table? Probably... but it was such a smooth and relatively painless transaction that I didn't mind.
Fast forward to September 2018. I go to buy a leftover 2017 Focus ST (ST3 trim). I told them right up front that I wanted 25% off MSRP, as I could have gotten that deal at another dealership a few months earlier. When they asked why I didn't, I told them that I wanted to get through chemo before I made any major purchases... which was true. They insisted on running the tired old game of "wear 'em down, make 'em wait". Seven hours later, I have my 25% off MSRP deal... (MSRP: $31,300 final selling price: $23,497)... decent, but not spectacular. I get into F&I, and they try to throw me a 4.99% APR. This REALLY set my jaw... I should have walked. My credit score is between 840 and 850, and you're going to throw THAT kind of rate at me? I already had financing arranged at my credit union. They told me the deal was contingent upon Ford credit financing, but that I could refinance in 90 days if I wanted to. I begrudgingly did the deal... so their "wear 'em down/make 'em wait" tactic worked... dammit. When I spoke to my credit union, he said that I did NOT have to wait 90 days... and as soon as I got the DMV paperwork, to come in & we'd do the refi. Two weeks later, I refi'd the car through my credit union at 2.5% APR. He told me that dealerships tell you that 90 day thang so that they get their money first, and Ford credit gets screwed.
I have dealt with this particular dealership before... in 2013, I leased a fully loaded Ford Edge Limited. They were trying to get me to sign a lease at $450/mo... to which I replied... "with my credit score, WHY would I pay a penny more than the "Red Carpet Lease" which was only $399/mo??? There again, they dragged out the process for 6-7 hours but got the red carpet lease price, so yea... I was like the guy in Fargo... "gimme the damned checkbook".
Most of my dealings with private owners have been MUCH more pleasant. I always have 3 or 4 cars, so it's not like I HAVE to buy a car... which works in my favor... I can typically WALK at any time.
But I try and do my homework prior to setting foot on a dealership's lot... typical selling prices, rebates, incentives, etc. I learned the hard way about having a trade-in. When I bought the Ram, I had a 2000 SuperDuty V10 supercab 4x4 with 86,000 miles on it. They offered me $1500 because it had a branded title (which I knew). I put it on CL. Had 3 calls within 2 hours of posting the ad. First person that showed up, drove it around the block, & bought it. Did not haggle on price. Sold it for $5k... bought it for $4200 4 year earlier. When I went to buy the Focus ST, I had an immaculate 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis with 34k miles on it. Again, the dealership wanted to give me $1500. I sold it in ONE DAY on CL for $6k. If you price your car right, it WILL sell fast.
Ford dealerships are the worst about dragging it out all day. I had this same issue happen on my 19 F 150. Got the price I wanted after playing the back and forth game forever, and got to finance with an excellent credit score and they tried to screw me with 6% financing.
Enjoy your channel. You guys are the best.Holding off til next spring to buy a late model used.
I use a long checklist of items to review when shopping for a car at Carmax I have discovered hood insulation missing, tire repair kits missing,
It's a used car. What'd you expect?
@@Anon1mous to get a car that’s been taken care of. Why would you not look for that? It exists...
Carmax is good if you find a super reliable car under $20,000 with the 150,000 mile “Maxcare”.
I’m talking not a penny over $20,000. Yep buying a sticker price $16,000 Carmax car and paying the tax and extra amount in the warranty etc. keeping the total under $20,000.
It won’t be the fanciest car with the most luxurious features but you know that the car should last as long as reasonably possible.
Anything under the $20,000 mark is a safe option for most people.
It’s when you go above that amount, that can make or break it for a lot of Americans. (Income to Debt Ratio, etc)
If you want a nicer/bigger car that goes beyond 20,000 negotiate at a dealership for a budget non fancy but reliable SUV.
Keep the out the door price under $30,000 if possible.
Only do 5 year financing at most. Chances are keeping the same car for longer than 5 years might not always work.
Recently bought a 2017 Camry Le with 26k miles from Carite, no haggle dealer, for $16k and some change after taxes and even a $500 doc fee. I found the same car at Toyota dealers and elsewhere with way more miles and almost $18k after its all said and done. I honestly got mine at a steal and was lucky to get it so low with new tires, brakes, fluids etc. it has a couple dings but clean history. These places are meant for people with bad credit scores because they accept literally almost anyone or looking for newer cars, priced competitively and to buy quickly even get a 5 day no questions asked return policy. Personally I wouldn’t buy a brand new car from here because they’re priced just the same and you can probably get a better deal at dealers because they usually offer free maintenance up to certain mileage.
I’m still amazed at the people that come in and want to negotiate the internet price. As BB King said, “the thrill is gone”. We are done.
I had a good experience at a no haggle dealership. I was able to negotiate some of the added fees such as security fee and other add ons
If it’s a manufacturer dealership such as Chevy, ram etc. those no haggle prices are bs. Just FYI
You'll never get the "best price" at a one price. You pay a premium for the joy of being told what you will buy the car for. One-price are great for comparison shopping. Zach, you also make it sound like shopping around might only net you $100 or $500 difference when in reality it's usually thousand$$$ between different companies on new cars from a little shopping around.
No haggle dealers are not the cheapest deal to be had. The most obvious area of contention is under allowing on trade ins based on their supposed wholesale pricing. Dealers compete so aggressively, that negotiation down from invoice is not difficult.
At a 1 price store, the negotiating is at the F+I desk.
Get those ducks in a row, then shop.
Carmax cars are usually $3,000 if not $5,000 above price they would be at a regular franchise dealership. I will say yes for the most part their cars are in better condition from what I've seen compared to dealerships, especially luxury models. And they give more in terms of trade versus regular dealer.
I don't agree that it makes the buying process easier guys, once you get to the business office they give you the business! They try everything to get you to buy services you don't need or want at inflated prices.
Some things maybe ok but most is useless. I have walked on deals five times because the business manager wouldn't let me just buy and go. It shouldn't take an hour in the business office it should take 15 mins max period.
I have arrived at home to find two messages from the dealer to come back and finish buying the car.
Fair pricing is good but the business office shafts and take the joy out of buying period.
Interesting experience recently, I was looking for a used car in Carmax, a Local store, and Carvana. I've looked at Cargures for the inventory and price before went to the Local store to negotiate a deal, the first experience that comes to me is the trade-in price, Local store first offers at $5500. I just laugh at it, and finally, they will match the trade-ins from Carmax, but with added $750 for other fees. I did homework before went to this dealer for trade-ins. Carmax offered me 40% more, and Carvana almost doubles the trade-in price for me.
So, I just went ahead ordered a car from Carvana. I know this maybe not the best price in town, but I am sure is the best price for trade-ins.
How was your buying experience with Carvana? I’m considering buying a vehicle from them but seeing mixed reviews.
I don’t love the apple comparison regarding used cars. ONLY because the product is always new and there is no risk on behalf of the customer. No I don’t like to haggle but I will never understand paying more because I don’t like to haggle! Just charge the most competitive price from the jump. A simple online search will confirm anyones suspicion. They always seem to call back. Once I have that experience, I don’t go back. I also don’t buy cars when I HAVE to buy a car. Haggling is worth a few thousand dollars. It’s NEVER a few hundred in my experience.
Really because carmax wants more for the same trim level and same options 2019 Silverado with 15k miles than the Chevrolet dealer wants for the same new 2020 Silverado. There’s an 8k difference!!!
I find the interest rates high at carmax but they do have the 30 day return if your not a satisfied buyer
IF THERE IS DAMAGE TO THE "ONE PRICE CAR" THEN YOU CAN ASK THEM TO REDUCE THE PRICE BY WHAT IT WILL COST YOU TO REPAIR IT ...... THIS IS TRUE ON USED CARS BECAUSE IN GENERAL THE MARKUP IS HIGHER ON A USED CAR ....... YOU CAN ALWAY ASK IF THEY WILL GIVE YOU A WARRENTY IF THEY SAY NO THEN REQUEST THE PRICE BE REDUCED TO PURCHASE A 1 YEAR WARRENTY
I just had an awful experience with a (major) dealer where I arrived (after much schlepping on a hot hot day) for a confirmed appointment to see a used car that I was assured was there. I was then led to new cars, when I insisted on the car I was there to see after a wait I was told it had been sold the day before. Bait and switched and angry, I left scathing reviews on yelp and google which brought responses of "we're shocked, shocked I tell you." I called the number they left which was an automated nonspecific voicemail. And oh! -- the car I wanted that was "sold" is still advertised on their website 5 days later! Crooks swearing they are not crooks. I'll be damned if I ever go to a dealer again. If I have to pay $2 - 3000 more than it's worth for a no haggle price on a car I know I will get than so be it. Other choice is private sellers which is also a scam minefield.
Same thing happened to me 3 years ago in Las Vegas don’t want to name the dealer Sahara and Decatur NW corner dealer. The car I was supposed to see wasn’t there and the salesman wasn’t there they just wanted me on the lot. Scum bags and greedy dealers.
@@lrac88510 Yeah no need to name the dealer cough cough Bay Ridge Nissan cough.
Thank you. That is very helpful as I am the most gullible person alive when it comes to buying cars. My preferred dealer (they have really helped me in the past) is a one price dealership and since I have been take for a ride so many times before but hate negotiating, I wanted to make sure that I wasn't making a mistake going with them rather than searching around other dealerships. I have always used the USAA Car Buying program, but USAA stopped that this past September. This alleviated my fears.
Just bought my used 2017 Nissan Murano SV 33k miles from Echo Park from Grand Prarie Tx. It had everything I wanted for $19,300 including tax, license, registration and fees. I did the email route and explained to all the Nissan dealerships I couldn’t come in due being high risk and they either ignored me, lied to me, or still tried to get me to come in, while bad mouthing the bargain bin dealership like Echo Park. Also the prices at the dealerships were about 4K higher on average to a comparable Murano. I have no problem with the sales person and dealer making a small profit off me to make a living, but the internet sales managers were outright insulting and really didn’t read my requests and questions. They preferred to bombard me with automated emails. Now that I have the vehicle I want, they all the sudden want to wheel and deal.
Best guess is they get a LOT of emails. You coming in weeds out the tire kickers.
I went to a no haggle used car dealership and and was still there all freaking day…. It saved zero time. After exhaustive research on the Internet I wanted the specific car they had and I accepted the terms quickly for the trade in and the new car price but they still played stupid games. I kinda wish I had tried my hand at negotiation; I am a realtor after all.
I never understood why cars are about the only thing we negotiate. I am going to lease a new car soon, and I am going to tell whichever dealer I go to, to give me their best best up front, and I will either accept it or I won't, no negotiations.
The problem with that strategy is that they will never give you their best price in the first go unless they are a no haggle dealership. They will do everything they can to force you to negotiate if you don't accept their first price, which will inevitably be too high.
I like one price but I think there will always be negotiation dealers because people like to feel like they got a better deal than other people. There was a store, I think JC penny, that went to a one price model. No sales no specials. Just the lowest possible price for the customer and they lost tons of money. People don't want cheap products, they want expensive products at a discount.
I looked up a price for a 2013 Highlander Hybrid at Spokane, WA Carmax yesterday and it was listed at 100% above the blue book cash value.
I bought a car from CarMax and got screwed big time. I thought it was a good price and they gave me a clean Carfax report. And after having the car a few weeks I found out that the car had been in a really bad accident and I'm guessing, the first owner of the car had the car fixed without reporting it to their Insurance company. And the longer I drove the car the more problem I found. The car was a money pit. The air condition went out after having the car for 1 month. And so many other high cost repairs followed.
what about the warranty they offer?
A car salesman's take on selling you a car
Can negotiate. Accessories. Low tread tires. Scrates?
I remember talking to a Honda salesman in the early '90s about Saturn's retail model. He laughed and said, "everything's negotiable."
These no-haggle pricing dealerships are a joke. I just traded in my 2017 Dodge Durango for a 2013 Highlander at a different dealership BECAUSE of the first dealership's "no-haggle" policy. I asked the manager how it was fair for him to tell me what my car was worth and then tell me what his vehicle was worth and if I didn't like it, it was tough beans. Literally argued with him for about half of an hour. He offered 18,500 on my vehicle. Fair market price was 25-26K which I GUARANTEE, he would have sold it for. The car he was selling was subpar, but did have low miles which was the only reason I even bothered looking at it in the first place. The sales manager was pissed because at the end of the day, the general manager in the fancy suit telling me my car was only worth $18,500 lost him a sale he spent most of the day working on. I politely told the general manager (slick suit-wearing MFer) where he could stuff his car, went down the road about 10 minutes, haggled with another dealership and got $19,576 out of my vehicle for what was arguable a better highlander (granted with more miles) for about $3K cheaper. I was content with that. Was the second dealership going to turn around and resell my car for $25K? Probably, but I got what I wanted and they got what they wanted. Win-Win. Leaving reviews today, guess which one is getting the 4-5 star and which is getting 1 star.
What about add-ons like dealer added items and dock fees etc? Are those negotiable?
Its doc fees. Everyone pays doc fees. It is only an issue of what state you're in and whether the state caps the amount a dealer can charge for doc fees. In out state it is $187.50 and no matter what dealer you go to in the state it is all the same. If the dealer elects to charge a doc fee then they have to charge it to every customer or elect to not charge a doc fee at all. To my knowledge every dealer in out state elected to charge it since every other dealer elected to charge it. We even had know-it-all attorneys try to get out of paying it and they all lost. They all paid it. The only way not to pay it is to not buy a vehicle from a dealer.
I heard on the news tonight that car prices are about 25 to 39% higher now this year because of the Covid - same as the real estate market
Is everything blamed on Covid? Did the car or house have Covid and need special treatment? Give me a break!
@@timhawks6101 Their excuses are just bullshit
Bananas are .63# lb. The checker rings it up. Those bananas are gone in 3-4 days or so.
Your 5-6+ year deal can become tough. The lender might tell you "that's tough". I can still buy
non-negotiable bananas.
Zack: "Am I getting a fair deal?" "Yes!!!" Zack: "Alright!!!" Always some spice between this father/son team. And always fantastic tips from Zack's dad, who explains things really well if he can actually finish his sentences between Zack's usually snarky interruptions. Thank you both for all of your videos!
Hate when the dealers think they have to ask such personal questions to me while looking around in the lot. Cant they wait until i come inside to ask THEM my questions.
How do dealers order vehicles from OEMs? Do they have to take a straight run or do they get to pick make/model/trim/color options?
Jim Knowlton Based in there allocations mostly they will be able to order to there exact spec.
I went to Rodeo Kia today inquired about a soul gt line, MSRP was 24,245 out the door was 34 grand, I walked out
Love it father & son.something I never experienced bless the family!!
I tend to stay away from “no haggle” dealers. Saturn folded in part because of that policy. Through the years we have established a price/value attitude and can just walk away. They are building more of that color ,that equipment as we read this. Shop on the internet first,get ideas on finance second and brace yourself for Smiley in the back office. Just say thank you ,NO,and walk.
New cars are a commodity. Competitive bidding is your only chance. 'One Price' dealers routinely sell cars much higher than competitive bidding. I'm tired of watching people I care about fall on these grenades.
Used car pricing is just idiotic in the country.
etronz Just got to do the research. Sometimes they have good deals, but you have to check just able everyday. Used car prices should normalize in a few months.
Aren’t some dealers motivated to sell a car say like at the end of the month or quarter to meet their quota, because you said some dealers will let you walk. I know that happened to me once I hit the dealer at the end of the month and the salesman said they had to sell one more car by the end of the day (it was 6 0’clock in the evening) to meet their quota and the salesman said what do we need to do to make a deal today and I said well give me 10% off ( too bad I didn’t say 12% ) and this was on a new model year Lexus. The car I wanted was being unloaded from the transport truck that day and the deal was done, I was happy and that was by far the easiest car that I ever bought.
How do you explain a dealership that is no haggle price when you call for the price of vehicle out the door no trade after doing research and narrowing it down to three cars from several dealerships. This was for a used vehicle that had about 16000 to 19000 miles on it (former rental car) Their quote was over competitors by $2000. When asked why they said their cars were inspected and certified and others were not. It should be noted all their cars were listed as call us for best deal. No specific price listed even on car guru. After thanking them for quote I advised was going to other dealerships as their quote was way out of line. One week later got call from dealer asking if I would be interested in a price reduction to buy car. New price was now in line with other dealerships (give or take $200) This was due to our buying car from them in past and could offer us an even better deal on no haggle price out the door.It is hard to tell if no haggle means no haggle anymore. Comments. I checked back on line and they still have car listed for sale as call for best price. They have had car for over 45 days now.
I was going to ask this question and I’m glad you laid it out straight. However, my question as a follow up was going to be can I negotiate the trade in value?
I suspect that you can because their “one price” price is not their bottom line and they want your car and your money and it helps lock down competition.
I've been looking for a 2000-2005 miata mx5 since new years. Dealers really weren't budging BUT, now they aren't even posting or responding on CARFAX
CARMAX prices always end with 998. 18,998 or 22,998 or 35998 etc. Instead of just making it 36,000 they feel the need to make it 35998 'no haggle' lol. I tried to talk them down on a price one day & they basically laughed at me & told me where the exit door was. The place is something else...
HORRIBLE! Autonation delivered the car we purchased dented and scratched “from transit.” We found Whataburger wrappers IN THE CAR. We contacted them to fix their damage. They said there is no haggle pricing and nothing they can do for transit damage and they couldn’t detail their car. Wtf does the “no haggle” price have anything to do with them fixing their error? We didn’t buy the car with the damage on it. Nor did we buy the food that was all over the interior. We returned the car immediately on 5 day money back guarantee. Be careful. The no haggle has turned into permission to abuse the customer.
People say CarMax is over priced. Some are, you gotta do your homework. What I’ve been like for and comparing to dealers, CM had been a little cheaper.