Damn you, EricTheCarGuy! 😭I just LOOOOOVE YOU!😭 🥰 I have been researching for days on which rethreading, retapping, helicoil kit to buy, ended up buying a EcoPlug which is too small and then I see this video. YOU HAVE SAVED ME!😭 Mind you these are tears of JOY! ❤❤ Today is June 16, 2023. I've been a sub of your for years and didn't know how much I needed you.
It's 12 years later and this video saved my ass. Changing the oil on my 2018 BMW X5 with the N55 engine and torqued my oil plug bolt to 25 ft lbs and sure enough it stripped the aluminum threads in the pan.The OEM bolt is M12 x 1. and is 16mm long. I went to Ace Hardware and they had a M12 x 1.5 25mm long, so almost the 2x length that Eric recommended. Threaded it in and.....voila, it tightened right up and works like a charm. NO leaks. Thanks Eric! The video that keeps on giving.
As an added level of peace of mind, I always install a nut before cutting the bolt. Once the bolt is cut, the nut acts kinda like a chaser to smooth down any rough edges left after cutting and grinding. The nut can also be used as a test piece to ensure smooth engagement into the oil pan or whatever other item is being repaired. Keep up the good work Eric.
As a manager at a Walmart tire shop: THANK YOU. It's nice to see somebody else with a passionate hatred towards people who screw up something as simple as putting a bolt into a hole. And for the record, I can assure you and everyone else that every drain plug that comes through my shop not only goes in with a wrench, it gets torqued to the manufacturer's spec.
Eric, I’ve been watching you for many years, and I was still a lube tech at the time you posted this, and since then every time I changed my oil or anyone else’s, I always remembered this video. I was extremely careful ever since that day and never stripped a drain plug or pan threads once. Tonight, I just changed the oil on my own 2009 car for what will probably be the last time before I sell it; the car has around 161,000 of your American miles on it, and it still to this day has the drain plug it came with from the factory, right down to the built-in rubber gasket. I just felt the need to make this announcement for no other reason that to let you know that, even though I’m not a tech anymore, this video got me through the remainder of my lube tech career and many years of maintaining my own car without a single dollar spent on drain plugs, helicoils, or anything else of the like. Cheers and thanks for the lesson.
THANK YOU!!! My 2005 Accord oil pan (aluminum) threads were getting stripped over time...I had some shavings on the drain plug the last few times when I took it out, but it always tightened up ok. I'm real careful about over tightening and only use a socket wrench. I've been doing oil changes on vehicles for close to 50 years. When I went to change the oil this time, the stock oil drain plug bolt wouldn't tighten up. It was spinning once it got to a certain point. I figured I'd have to spring for a new pan, which I might have to do eventually at some point anyway. I searched online and found this vid. I went up to NAPA and bought a longer bolt with the same thread size. The new bolt is about twice as long as the old one. I put it in...and voila! It tightened right up. Once I got past the bad section of thread, it must have hit good threads and was fine. I'm hoping it buys me some time before I have to do the oil pan. Maybe, it even lasts for the life of the car. I can dream, can't I? Thanks again!
Eric you need to be praised for being precisely what people need. Smart, efficient, logical and all without the smart ass or vulgar stuff that so many RUclips posters have. I can't thank you enough for doing it right and being a person with class. Tipping my hat to you sir. Awesome!!!!!
Just wanted to say thanks for the great tip on getting a longer bolt. For those that don’t want to buy a bolt and cut it down, you can source a Mercedes Benz drain bolt - they are the same M14 x 1.5 thread but about double the length - only difference is you’ll need a 13mm wrench or socket as the hex head is smaller.
@@DiamondScuff i believe it was from a 2013 benz but aslong as it’s a m14x1.5 thread it’ll work i still have that bolt in the oil pan to this day. great hack
@@DiamondScuff the head of the bolt it smaller than the original so don’t crush the washer pass spec or it won’t crush even and will have a slight leak but nothing crazy prolly half of quart gone every oil change.and my threads were all gone except that last ones which is why the longer bolt worked because it was able to grab those. and still going
If you cut a bolt put a nut on the bolt first. After the cut unscrew the nut and the threads that were cut will line back up and then use a wire wheel to clean up
You can screw a nut befor cutting and grinding the edge, unscrewing the nut will "repair" the edgeof the threads. I like your videos. Greetings from Romania !
Thank you for this. My son’s ATV has the oil plug screwed into the engine housing rather than a pan. The previous owner left the threads stripped out and thanks to this tip, we were able to get it fixed. As an unexpected bonus, the bolt from the hardware store seems to have even cleaned up the original thread along with the overall bolt length being trimmed only slightly longer. Much appreciated!
Exactly. Aluminum is much stronger due to it's thickness on the oil pan, versus thin steel. By having fins, it adds to dexterity of the oil pan and acts as a oil cooler, thus extending oil life and helping to further cool the engine. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. Oil plays a very large role in engine heat management, and therefore it's in the best interest to keep oil cool.
@Timothayyy I still stand by my bolt method as the most economical and practical method of dealing with this issue which unfortunately I have extensive experience with, in fact I have a stock of these bolts in my toolbox and I've never had to do anything else up to this point. Thanks for your comment.
Stupid question my only concern with this is it pushing metal shaving into the pan when you are screwing in the new bolt did you have any issues like that I don't really want to have to have the whole oil pan replaced
Actually I have used one of those universal drain plugs to take care of a drain bolt that was stripped out, and it worked fine for me....I dug new threads in just fine and held snug just fine as long as you didn't man handle it. And it didn't leak at all
If people don’t know about Eric the car guy, they have no clue what there missing!!!! This guy knows his shit! He also gives you great tips and advice unlike bad mechanics that just aren’t there to help you...
Finally a safe fast and permanent solution to a nighymare when pan threads strip out! I have been purchasing and installing Ecoplugs these magnetic drain plugs solved my problems on stripped pan threads in seconds best of all you never have to deal with threads or oil leaks again.I have been buying Ecoplugs at Walmart or Autozone.
You can helicoil or use a thread insert , we use them in the motorcycle industry a lot because we come across the problem of stripped out threads a lot
I have a 99 Acura TL that had a this issue. I am so glad I happened to find this video. It saved me a lot of time and money. 1.50 for a new bolt and basically the same time as changing the oil...and the car is fixed! Thanks a million Eric the Car Guy! Very helpful indeed.
I just watched another RUclips Video by Ron Williams where he used a spark plug helicoil repair kit for aluminum cylinder heads. This replaces the aluminum threads with steel threads in the insert. In addition, you need not remove the oil pan from the engine. All in all, a superior amd more durable repair in my view. What do you think?
@DMJohn73 Nothing makes me happier than getting comments like this, I'm very glad my video helped you and that it saved you so much money. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
+gizzy nc I don't get it either. I work on oil changes and tires all day and I get drain plugs that seize when you loosen them/rough coming out, and the same thing goes for lugnuts and studs. I just don't get it. Some of this dirty work comes from bad apples at dealerships too. Seriously how long is it going to take you to just finger tighten the damn things in properly?
Herb Bees yep, me too, biggest cause of damaged lugnuts is over tightened lugs. I've had wheels supposed to be at 80ft/lb that a 150 ft/lb impact struggled to remove. people need to stop cranking everything down. some drain plugs need as little as 10in/lbs.
Sears guys, used 5 different types of drain plugs in my VW with an impact, and wondered how it did not fit ( they showed my how it would just spin out and or fall out) yeah I was pretty ticked off. First time I didntt do oil change myself never again!
Thanks a Ton Eric. We sat around for a half hour trying to figure out how to fix this issue with out stripped out threads on the oil pan before we saw your video. Followed your directions exactly and back on the road 30 minutes later. Thanks Sir ! !
Eric - yesterday I took my 2006 Ford Escape for an oil change - Tires Plus in Burtonsville, MD, so any readers in that area know to avoid them - and the store manager comes back after an hour and tells me "So sorry, but your pan is stripped out, the plug won't tighten, and you need a new one. With the oil change, that'll be 600 bucks." When I asked how it happened, namely, did the guy putting it back in strip it?, he told me "it just fell out when he went to remove it. Amazing it didn't fall out sooner." Yeah, amazing indeed. Being three hundred miles from home I thought it over and said ok. Then I thought better, did a quick search, found this video, and told him to stop - that I was taking the car as it was. Bought the bolt, cut it down, and voila - donezo. When I put the new oil back in, I noticed in the catch pan all the metal strippings from when the guy put the plug back in. Took them back to the shop to say "thanks for nothing", and the manager rattled off all kinds bs excuses and refused to accept responsibility (and I wasn't asking for more than an apology, since it's been fixed for now). Oh well. Bottom line - you saved me six hundred dollars. Thanks man. Big time.
@@oby-1607 that's exactly why you do though... because they got insurance for when they have to take that L. When a DIYer fucks up, there is no insurance, you're left fucked and you still gotta take that big fat L
The same thing happened to me the other day at Steve Shannon tires in Stroudsburg PA. I went to get a patch for my tire as I had a plug. I came across this bright idea of getting oil change which I usually do it my self unless it is winter. Guy comes back to me and says my bolt is stripped. I was wondering, if it was stripped how in God's name was it holding in the pan, it should have fallen on the road somewhere. I am usually sharp about checking threads with my pinkie (old habit) and besides I just use simple wrench on any oil drain bolt so I knew that could not be right. Nevertheless the less it was my last visit. Been going there for over 15 years for tires .... 5 vehicles. Very sad.. Either the mechanic was a moron or it was an organization thing could not say for sure.
Bought a used Acura MDX and soon noticed a slow oil drip on the garage floor, on closer inspection saw oil on the drain plug and a black plastic washer instead of a crush washer. So I thought I just need to put a new crush washer on when I change the oil. Fast forward, I'm trying to torque on the drain plug to the recommended foot lbs and it just keeps turning. Last thing on the Car Fax report was a trip to Grease Monkey, go figure. 1st option longer drain plug bolt (14mm x 1.5mm x 30mm) $2.00 2nd option Helicoil/Fix-a-thread repair kit $40 3rd option New oil pan $200++ Thankfully the 1st option worked like a champ. Thank you Eric!
Short Story for my Acura - The Dorman# 090-164 is a M14-1.50 plug with a 19mm flange, is 24mm long and includes a 20mm copper alloy washer. I hung the washer on a nail and replaced it with a Dorman# 095-015 24mm aluminum washer to ensure a greater area of seal. Long Story - What a great lesson from ETCG! My fix was for a 2003 Acura TL Type S. I removed the original oil drain plug to find about 5 rows of aluminum thread from the oil pan that were still on it. In a panic I came to ETCG’s channel and my hope was restored. I put on my granny glasses and looked into the drain hole to see 10mm of thread were now missing but there was an estimated 12mm of unused threads deeper inside. I also found that there were a few shards of aluminum to remove so as to avoid additional damage to the remaining threads. After a little research, I learned that there are many other makes/models that use M14-1.50 thread size oil drain plugs but on most, the flange is too wide to seat into the 25mm recessed area of the Acura oil pan drain hole. Then I learned that most Mercedes-Benz oil pans also have an M14-1.50 thread and the drain plugs are more than twice as long (24mm) as the Acura’s 10mm plug. I used the above combination of parts to “pass through” the stripped-out area of oil pan threads, gain purchase onto the threads that had never been used, and spent a total of $2.78 on the fix. Like every good citizen I also paid a 24¢ tax and as is customary with do-it-yourself people, I did not include the cost of fuel to travel to O,O,O,O’Reilly Auto Parts. I already owned a 13mm wrench for the new plug and you will need one too.
3 years later and I find myself in the same predicament with my TL 🤣 threads came with the bolt, heart sank, removed the oil pan in plans to drill and tap helicoil in, decided to do a google on Eric Dr Honda, and longer bolt looks like will get me by 😂 new pan seal never hurt no one
I found the bolt I needed at Home Depot for my 06 Odyssey, I think the length was 40 or 45 mm. I added some yellow "black pipe" Teflon for good measure, I didn't cut it as it appeared close to the correct length, I just added a washer, put on the Teflon, and threaded it in. Fixed my problem, no leaks at all!!! Thanks for saving me a ton of cash and time!!!
@motorztv It happes way more than you might think, at the dealer I was getting at least one or two of these a month, brand new cars too, we used to joke that the first thing to go bad in a car was the drain plug. I've even put engines in cars because of stuff like this, hence my animosity or in the case of this video my quiet rage. Thanks for taking the time to watch motorztv.
@CivicFiberglassDoor That sucks. I've had to replace a few pans myself because of such carelessness, after I found this trick however I replaced them a lot less unless I knew the place that had damaged it in the first place was footing the bill, then I changed the pan and charged full price.
Eric the word GENIUS was reserved just for you I think I enjoy your videos because they're down to earth no-nonesense mechanical tips and tutorials, also you admit when you make mistakes which is humbling to see PLEASE whatever you do don't stop making videos like this they are more educational and entertaining to view than you could imagine! Stay dirty and stay on youtube! Peace out
Great video!! I came across that situation on my Honda Civic a month ago, i had to replace the oil pan, I spent $285 to fix it. I went to home depot and no one could tell me sizes or were able to help me, so i end up replacing it. If only i`ve found your RUclips channel before and watched this video i could have safe some money. Thanks Eric, great job!!!
@techgood Yea doing it yourself is a good way to prevent damage to your drain bolts and it also gives you the chance to get to know your truck better. Thanks very much for your comment, I'm glad you like the videos.
You were a life saver on this, saved me $400+! I just bought a M14-1.5 hexagonal metric bolt that was 30mm long and added a washer, didn't have to cut it down or smooth it out. The hardest part was finding the bolt at a local hardware store, Lowes and Home Depot didn't have it. I should add that to anyone that stripped out their oil pan, you probably want to run a lot of oil through it, because it flushed out most of the metal shavings from it getting stripped.
David Richey what kind of vehicle did you use this longer bolt in? I just found that exact bolt at an Ace Hardware to use for my 2006 Honda Ridgeline and I was hoping I wouldn’t have to cut it to make it work. Thanks in advance.
@ErickTheCarGuy....wow, you just saved me $590. I was searching for an oil pan for my 02 Acura RL...just like the Legend, it's a beast to take out and I've been getting quoted more than I can afford. I must admit, I tried the rubber plugs, but after seeing your video, and reading the comments, I'm off to the Mercedes dealership to purchase a longer drain plug! You really don't understand how much this saving is going to help me and my wife out! Continued success with your youtube career!
Great tip Eric !! Fortunately I've had enough common sense that you NEVER over tighten the drain plug bolt.. I always rub a little oil on the threads and feed it manually with my hands so I can feel and confirm it isn't cross threaded. I only give it a little "umpphh" when I tighten it back down but god forbit if I strip it I now know a cheap fix. What did that bolt cost you maybe $1-2 at the local Home Depot/Lowe's ? I love cheap and solid workarounds like this !! Saves time and money.
@EricTheCarGuy I work as a mechanic on the east coast of Canada. Ive replaced quite a few steel oil pans and transmission pans because they have rusted out to the point that they leak quite badly. The fact that aluminum pans don't rust out and leak the way steel pans can, may or may not have anything to do with it but i am glad my oil pan is aluminum. The newest vehicle i replaced a rusted leaking steel pan was on a 2007.
@ncrdisabled I don't recommend drilling into an oil pan to avoid the risk of getting metal shavings in the oil. In addition drilling into oil pans on cars can be harder than you might imagine. Thanks for the comment.
I work in industrial maintenance and am occasionally annoyed at how others will hugely overtighten bolts, screws and other connections on the factory equipment, all its doing is wearing out the threads. This is a well edited comprehensive video that gets to the point. I gave it a like.
Thank you! Saved me a giant headache! Changing the oil for the first time in my son's used car. Drainplug totally stripped, surprised it wasn't leaking oil. Local hardware stores didn't have the right size bolt but the after market one I bought at Autozone was almost double the length of the drainplug. Worked perfect.
Wow you saved my rear, 04 Pilot I stripped the theads myself. My heart sank, then found this video, I can breath now!. Save me hundreds of dollars & easy fix. I have learned my lesson on aluminum pans, easy go with it.
@KillerZero259 If you get a stock drain plug it will be of the same length and will do you no good, the idea here is to use a longer bolt to catch the undamaged threads deeper in the pan casting and the longer bolt will accomplish this.
Loved this video. Not sure how I got here but loved this video. Had to teach this same lesson to one of my friends whereas he just LOVES his air tools. I love mine too but whereas I have learned the painful mistake of aluminum & air tools, he did not know of my problem I had so many years ago and he just made this mistake a few months ago. And your method is CHEAP & Inexpensive. Unlike some of the Tap & Die, Welding, and other skills many people do not know or have or the funds to do so. Cheers.
Just wanted to say thanks for the tip! over torqued my 02 Civic drain bolt enough to screw up the threads (by hand) and this saved me a new pan. I would add that I needed to FULLY strip out the damaged threads before the new bolt threaded, then I also found that you CAN have too much thread. I needed to trim my bolt down a second time to roughly 15 threads showing or else it seemed to bottom out. Can't believe my factory plug had only FIVE threads biting in that ALUMINUM pan!! Ugh
@smitty6293 Not sure really but depending on your situation you may end up replacing the pan in the end. You might also consider taking it back where the oil was changed to see if they can do anything for you.
@310stanger I would say it would apply to aluminum oil pans in general. As you run the fastener in by hand you should be able to feel if it's binding or something, if it is then back it out and try again. The point is to take your time and do it right if not you'll be putting a new pan in. Thanks for the comment.
@Bushougoma Drilling into oil pans on the car is trickier than you might think. Also by the time you got done drilling your timecert hole I would already be filling the car with oil, not to mention the cost difference between a timecert and my blot. Your suggestion about using a nut is a good one however that is why I grind a taper into the bolt before I install it, this not only makes it easier to install but gets rid of any burs on the bolt. Thanks for your comment.
@ManicMechanic007 That's a great suggestion but that is also the reason I round the end after cutting, in addition to helping start the threads it gets rid of all the burs that show up after cutting. Thanks for your comment.
I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum. The longer bolt worked great. No more drip... I had to go to 3 different hardware stores before I found it.... Thanks dude .... You saved me a bunch of money..... 14mm x 1.5 pitch...... :)
@fancynot Nothing makes me more proud than the "art" crowd stopping in to watch my little "mechanical" videos. I think it brings a touch of culture to the mix. Thanks for the comment.
IT WORKS !!! You're AWESOMENESS good sir. Thank you so much for this fix. My 2010 Mazda 3 got a stripped drain plug from Valvoline Quickie Lube place so now I will not be so lazy and do my own again.
@jambe1234567 The regular drain plug threads would be damaged, there are threads deeper in the pan that are not damaged that the longer bolt will be able to take advantage of. It's not that they are designed that way but when you make a threaded hole it depends on how deep the hole is how far the threads go.
@gesundheit6210 I recommend trying this first rather than drilling into the pan, it's faster and it doesn't leave a bunch of metal shavings in the oil pan. Thanks for the comment.
I use Fumoto drain valves on all my cars. Love them. One time install and never have to worry about stripping oil pans. I've never had one leak so much as a drop of oil.
@AnUglyAmerican I think it's good practice to use 6pt sockets on everything instead of 12pt, the only time I use 12pt is when I have a 12pt fastener to remove. I agree about putting metal shavings in the oil pan, bad idea and would take more time than my method. Thanks for your suggestion and comment.
@Begbucks That would take longer and put metal shavings in the oil pan. Also, have you ever tried to drill an oil pan while it's still on the car? It's often not as easy as you might think. As for plastic oil pans, I haven't seen too many of them but I would be just as careful if not more so working with them.
@BHownsall I believe that is the default setting of the AC when it detects a problem for Toyota. The battery may have nothing to do with it as it could just have a low charge. I recommend taking it to a shop to have the AC diagnosed.
Before I take a cutting blade to any bolt, I'll spin a pair of hex nuts all the way down the bolt. After cutting the bolt, you slowly remove the nuts. They will work similar to a die set and help form a nice tapered thread at the start of the bolt. The other option for fixing a stripped thread (depending on severity) is to use a tap set to re-cut the threads, then use a proper drain plug, new sealant washer, and of course a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the proper spec. Great video!
Bam! Love it. I’ve never let anyone work on my car. I’m 44. Turned wrenches from age 16 to 32 and hung it up because, well let’s face it, it’s a tough way to make a buck. Anyway I let some ass clown change the oil a few months ago as I was really busy. One time won’t hurt right? Went to change it today and the genius either cross threaded or torqued the plug with a 1/2 impact. I will never let anyone ever touch my car again. Was ready to order an oil pan and bum a ride to work tomorrow and I found this fix. $3 and a trip to menards and I’m back back in business. Thank you.
@AGreedyTree I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug but that doesn't mean you couldn't. The point is not to over tighten which seems to be the tendency.
@OMG55699 Those aren't long enough, the reason you use the longer bolt is because the standard ones are stripped out and the threads wont' catch, just installing a new plug will not work if it's stripped out.
@Moosepiesandwich Thank you very much for that great comment. It's nice to have such a diverse group of viewers, thanks again for your comment and for watching.
@jmihalchik Great suggestion however if you grind a taper on the bolt as I did in the video you would not only remove any burs on the bolt but you will also make it easier to install. Thanks for your comment.
@ChrisTwitty I should just copy and paste this response: drilling might leave metal in the oil pan, the bolt is much cheeper and much easier to install and works very well. In short, you could but knowing all that, why?
Much love for Eric and his channel had this issue with a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid I only had 1 or 2 threads left with my pan, I was freaking out called my mechanic best course in that situation retap the pan 9/16 and upsize the bolt. 9/16 is between 14mm and 15mm if it strips again you can then retap to 15mm saved me a ton of time and worry if you have no threads left you can still save your pan just need a good fine bolt with a rubber coated washer
@larlar752000 That's not the issue, sometimes I upload a video long before it goes live and it doesn't show up as new as a result, I'm working on a solution to that however stay tuned.
Found a plug a little longer than the last and it worked perfectly didn't even have to cut. I would not have though of this. Saved a bunch with a $2 purchase. Thanks!
@Bobman84 I would be much easier indeed but I don't have the ceiling height for it. I'll be looking for a new shop soon and hopefully it will have a lift or space for me to put one. Thanks for your comment. I'm glad you like the videos.
I've had to do similar adjustments with bolts. And not having a die grinder or a bench grinder I had to use a hacksaw. To maintain the integrity of the threads, I put a nut on the longer bolt and using the vise and hacksaw, cut it at the very end of the nut. It acts sort of like a tap-and-die threader when I remove the nut. Finish off the end of the bold with a fine "toothed" file just to round it off a bit. Just my method. :) Thanks for the tips!! Awesome quality.
@Michiganborn1969 I did mention that you could use a hack saw to get the job done instead of the cut off wheel. The bolt is too long to go into the pan by itself, it will bottom out before it tightens up. Drain plugs are far away from the sump so that is also not an issue. As to the other part of your comment I think the real issue is that you would get paid better and have better insurance if you worked at McDonald's than if you worked at one of the quick lube joints.
it works very good and when i went to buy the bolt i bought M14 X1.5MM 30MM ,I ihave nothing to cut it was just the perfect size (30 MM). Thanks you EricTheCarGuy
that blows my mind that people would use a impact wrench to tighten a drain plug!of course the week our local supercenter opened i fixed 7 oil pans that they destroyed,so i guess not that surprised!good job,keep it up bro,GOD bless you!
@choi3ed Let me put it this way, if your engine is old and has run regular oil stay with it and save your money. I've seen more than one occasion where someone switched to synthetic or 'special' oil only to find that it leaks more and burns more oil after the switch. That stuff is good for new engines but I don't recommend it for old ones.
I stripped out my drain plug on my bike before, hard lesson. Installed a Heli-Coil instead though, turned out really nice and saved the cost of buying a new pan, but i did take the pan off... so very labor intensive.
Thank you!! You helped me out when my sibling stripped their oil pan.. the bolt was fine, just would not grab anymore. Took 5 visits to different hardware stores but finally got the right sized bolt m14 x 1.5 and cut it down, sanded the edges and it worked beautifully.
9 years later and still helping the working man. Thank you. You’re an automotive icon.
Damn you, EricTheCarGuy! 😭I just LOOOOOVE YOU!😭 🥰 I have been researching for days on which rethreading, retapping, helicoil kit to buy, ended up buying a EcoPlug which is too small and then I see this video. YOU HAVE SAVED ME!😭 Mind you these are tears of JOY! ❤❤ Today is June 16, 2023. I've been a sub of your for years and didn't know how much I needed you.
It's 12 years later and this video saved my ass. Changing the oil on my 2018 BMW X5 with the N55 engine and torqued my oil plug bolt to 25 ft lbs and sure enough it stripped the aluminum threads in the pan.The OEM bolt is M12 x 1. and is 16mm long. I went to Ace Hardware and they had a M12 x 1.5 25mm long, so almost the 2x length that Eric recommended. Threaded it in and.....voila, it tightened right up and works like a charm. NO leaks. Thanks Eric! The video that keeps on giving.
As an added level of peace of mind, I always install a nut before cutting the bolt. Once the bolt is cut, the nut acts kinda like a chaser to smooth down any rough edges left after cutting and grinding. The nut can also be used as a test piece to ensure smooth engagement into the oil pan or whatever other item is being repaired.
Keep up the good work Eric.
I see you like ZZTOP as well
As a manager at a Walmart tire shop: THANK YOU. It's nice to see somebody else with a passionate hatred towards people who screw up something as simple as putting a bolt into a hole. And for the record, I can assure you and everyone else that every drain plug that comes through my shop not only goes in with a wrench, it gets torqued to the manufacturer's spec.
Eric, I’ve been watching you for many years, and I was still a lube tech at the time you posted this, and since then every time I changed my oil or anyone else’s, I always remembered this video. I was extremely careful ever since that day and never stripped a drain plug or pan threads once. Tonight, I just changed the oil on my own 2009 car for what will probably be the last time before I sell it; the car has around 161,000 of your American miles on it, and it still to this day has the drain plug it came with from the factory, right down to the built-in rubber gasket. I just felt the need to make this announcement for no other reason that to let you know that, even though I’m not a tech anymore, this video got me through the remainder of my lube tech career and many years of maintaining my own car without a single dollar spent on drain plugs, helicoils, or anything else of the like. Cheers and thanks for the lesson.
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THANK YOU!!! My 2005 Accord oil pan (aluminum) threads were getting stripped over time...I had some shavings on the drain plug the last few times when I took it out, but it always tightened up ok. I'm real careful about over tightening and only use a socket wrench. I've been doing oil changes on vehicles for close to 50 years. When I went to change the oil this time, the stock oil drain plug bolt wouldn't tighten up. It was spinning once it got to a certain point. I figured I'd have to spring for a new pan, which I might have to do eventually at some point anyway. I searched online and found this vid. I went up to NAPA and bought a longer bolt with the same thread size. The new bolt is about twice as long as the old one. I put it in...and voila! It tightened right up. Once I got past the bad section of thread, it must have hit good threads and was fine. I'm hoping it buys me some time before I have to do the oil pan. Maybe, it even lasts for the life of the car. I can dream, can't I? Thanks again!
Eric you need to be praised for being precisely what people need. Smart, efficient, logical and all without the smart ass or vulgar stuff that so many RUclips posters have. I can't thank you enough for doing it right and being a person with class. Tipping my hat to you sir. Awesome!!!!!
Just wanted to say thanks for the great tip on getting a longer bolt. For those that don’t want to buy a bolt and cut it down, you can source a Mercedes Benz drain bolt - they are the same M14 x 1.5 thread but about double the length - only difference is you’ll need a 13mm wrench or socket as the hex head is smaller.
you saved my life
@@gofish6814 any mercedes specifically? i need to try this bolt
@@DiamondScuff i believe it was from a 2013 benz but aslong as it’s a m14x1.5 thread it’ll work i still have that bolt in the oil pan to this day. great hack
@@gofish6814 Just ordered one thanks. Im assuming no leak after every oil change? how much thread came out when you originally stripped your pan?
@@DiamondScuff the head of the bolt it smaller than the original so don’t crush the washer pass spec or it won’t crush even and will have a slight leak but nothing crazy prolly half of quart gone every oil change.and my threads were all gone except that last ones which is why the longer bolt worked because it was able to grab those. and still going
If you cut a bolt put a nut on the bolt first. After the cut unscrew the nut and the threads that were cut will line back up and then use a wire wheel to clean up
+skojo3e good idea
YES!!!!!
skojo3e Great tip!
Wire wheel the cut end before removing the nut, and after inspecting it after nut is removed, do it again if necessary.
Absolutely I second this motion!!
You can screw a nut befor cutting and grinding the edge, unscrewing the nut will "repair" the edgeof the threads.
I like your videos.
Greetings from Romania !
Thank you for this. My son’s ATV has the oil plug screwed into the engine housing rather than a pan. The previous owner left the threads stripped out and thanks to this tip, we were able to get it fixed. As an unexpected bonus, the bolt from the hardware store seems to have even cleaned up the original thread along with the overall bolt length being trimmed only slightly longer. Much appreciated!
Exactly. Aluminum is much stronger due to it's thickness on the oil pan, versus thin steel. By having fins, it adds to dexterity of the oil pan and acts as a oil cooler, thus extending oil life and helping to further cool the engine. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. Oil plays a very large role in engine heat management, and therefore it's in the best interest to keep oil cool.
@Timothayyy I still stand by my bolt method as the most economical and practical method of dealing with this issue which unfortunately I have extensive experience with, in fact I have a stock of these bolts in my toolbox and I've never had to do anything else up to this point. Thanks for your comment.
Dude!!!! You are the man!! You just saved me $550!!!
Stupid question my only concern with this is it pushing metal shaving into the pan when you are screwing in the new bolt did you have any issues like that I don't really want to have to have the whole oil pan replaced
@@jerryduvall3715 no
I've never used this trick on an oil pan, but it's been a life saver for me on so many other applications with partially stripped bolt holes.
Actually I have used one of those universal drain plugs to take care of a drain bolt that was stripped out, and it worked fine for me....I dug new threads in just fine and held snug just fine as long as you didn't man handle it. And it didn't leak at all
If people don’t know about Eric the car guy, they have no clue what there missing!!!! This guy knows his shit! He also gives you great tips and advice unlike bad mechanics that just aren’t there to help you...
If you put a nut on the bolt before cutting the end off, then when you take the nut off, it trues up the threads where the die grinder mars them.
Great tip
Finally a safe fast and permanent solution to a nighymare when pan threads strip out!
I have been purchasing and installing Ecoplugs these magnetic drain plugs solved my problems on stripped pan threads in seconds best of all you never have to deal with threads or oil leaks again.I have been buying Ecoplugs at Walmart or Autozone.
You can helicoil or use a thread insert , we use them in the motorcycle industry a lot because we come across the problem of stripped out threads a lot
I have a 99 Acura TL that had a this issue. I am so glad I happened to find this video. It saved me a lot of time and money. 1.50 for a new bolt and basically the same time as changing the oil...and the car is fixed! Thanks a million Eric the Car Guy! Very helpful indeed.
I just watched another RUclips Video by Ron Williams where he used a spark plug helicoil repair kit for aluminum cylinder heads. This replaces the aluminum threads with steel threads in the insert. In addition, you need not remove the oil pan from the engine. All in all, a superior amd more durable repair in my view. What do you think?
and more expensive.
@DMJohn73 Nothing makes me happier than getting comments like this, I'm very glad my video helped you and that it saved you so much money. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
who the hell uses an impact on an oil drain plug?
Lazy Dumbasses who don't give a fuck!!
+gizzy nc I don't get it either. I work on oil changes and tires all day and I get drain plugs that seize when you loosen them/rough coming out, and the same thing goes for lugnuts and studs. I just don't get it. Some of this dirty work comes from bad apples at dealerships too. Seriously how long is it going to take you to just finger tighten the damn things in properly?
Herb Bees yep, me too, biggest cause of damaged lugnuts is over tightened lugs. I've had wheels supposed to be at 80ft/lb that a 150 ft/lb impact struggled to remove. people need to stop cranking everything down. some drain plugs need as little as 10in/lbs.
+skojo3e Well said man.
Sears guys, used 5 different types of drain plugs in my VW with an impact, and wondered how it did not fit ( they showed my how it would just spin out and or fall out) yeah I was pretty ticked off. First time I didntt do oil change myself never again!
Thanks a Ton Eric. We sat around for a half hour trying to figure out how to fix this issue with out stripped out threads on the oil pan before we saw your video. Followed your directions exactly and back on the road 30 minutes later. Thanks Sir ! !
Eric - yesterday I took my 2006 Ford Escape for an oil change - Tires Plus in Burtonsville, MD, so any readers in that area know to avoid them - and the store manager comes back after an hour and tells me "So sorry, but your pan is stripped out, the plug won't tighten, and you need a new one. With the oil change, that'll be 600 bucks." When I asked how it happened, namely, did the guy putting it back in strip it?, he told me "it just fell out when he went to remove it. Amazing it didn't fall out sooner." Yeah, amazing indeed. Being three hundred miles from home I thought it over and said ok. Then I thought better, did a quick search, found this video, and told him to stop - that I was taking the car as it was. Bought the bolt, cut it down, and voila - donezo. When I put the new oil back in, I noticed in the catch pan all the metal strippings from when the guy put the plug back in. Took them back to the shop to say "thanks for nothing", and the manager rattled off all kinds bs excuses and refused to accept responsibility (and I wasn't asking for more than an apology, since it's been fixed for now). Oh well. Bottom line - you saved me six hundred dollars. Thanks man. Big time.
Please tell me that you sued those fuckers.
This is what happens when you let someone else touch your stuff. You wouldn't let anybody else service your woman, would you?
@@oby-1607 that's exactly why you do though... because they got insurance for when they have to take that L.
When a DIYer fucks up, there is no insurance, you're left fucked and you still gotta take that big fat L
What size bolt did you get I am I the same boat
The same thing happened to me the other day at Steve Shannon tires in Stroudsburg PA. I went to get a patch for my tire as I had a plug. I came across this bright idea of getting oil change which I usually do it my self unless it is winter. Guy comes back to me and says my bolt is stripped. I was wondering, if it was stripped how in God's name was it holding in the pan, it should have fallen on the road somewhere.
I am usually sharp about checking threads with my pinkie (old habit) and besides I just use simple wrench on any oil drain bolt so I knew that could not be right. Nevertheless the less it was my last visit. Been going there for over 15 years for tires .... 5 vehicles. Very sad..
Either the mechanic was a moron or it was an organization thing could not say for sure.
Bought a used Acura MDX and soon noticed a slow oil drip on the garage floor, on closer inspection saw oil on the drain plug and a black plastic washer instead of a crush washer. So I thought I just need to put a new crush washer on when I change the oil. Fast forward, I'm trying to torque on the drain plug to the recommended foot lbs and it just keeps turning. Last thing on the Car Fax report was a trip to Grease Monkey, go figure.
1st option longer drain plug bolt (14mm x 1.5mm x 30mm) $2.00
2nd option Helicoil/Fix-a-thread repair kit $40
3rd option New oil pan $200++
Thankfully the 1st option worked like a champ.
Thank you Eric!
2:53 my ex wife's words exactly pretty much.
Short Story for my Acura - The Dorman# 090-164 is a M14-1.50 plug with a 19mm flange, is 24mm long and includes a 20mm copper alloy washer. I hung the washer on a nail and replaced it with a Dorman# 095-015 24mm aluminum washer to ensure a greater area of seal.
Long Story - What a great lesson from ETCG! My fix was for a 2003 Acura TL Type S. I removed the original oil drain plug to find about 5 rows of aluminum thread from the oil pan that were still on it. In a panic I came to ETCG’s channel and my hope was restored. I put on my granny glasses and looked into the drain hole to see 10mm of thread were now missing but there was an estimated 12mm of unused threads deeper inside. I also found that there were a few shards of aluminum to remove so as to avoid additional damage to the remaining threads.
After a little research, I learned that there are many other makes/models that use M14-1.50 thread size oil drain plugs but on most, the flange is too wide to seat into the 25mm recessed area of the Acura oil pan drain hole. Then I learned that most Mercedes-Benz oil pans also have an M14-1.50 thread and the drain plugs are more than twice as long (24mm) as the Acura’s 10mm plug. I used the above combination of parts to “pass through” the stripped-out area of oil pan threads, gain purchase onto the threads that had never been used, and spent a total of $2.78 on the fix. Like every good citizen I also paid a 24¢ tax and as is customary with do-it-yourself people, I did not include the cost of fuel to travel to O,O,O,O’Reilly Auto Parts. I already owned a 13mm wrench for the new plug and you will need one too.
Thank you so much for posting all these details!! Gonna grab this Dorman plug tomorrow and see how it goes. Stripped the plug on my 04 Honda Element..
@@robertkiser4714 Hi Robert. Thanks for adding your comment. I hope it works for your Honda too!
3 years later and I find myself in the same predicament with my TL 🤣 threads came with the bolt, heart sank, removed the oil pan in plans to drill and tap helicoil in, decided to do a google on Eric Dr Honda, and longer bolt looks like will get me by 😂 new pan seal never hurt no one
Whats wrong with the oversize drain plug?
He said it will strip and leak.
they still leak I put one in there..
You are a genius and very kind to share this fix. I did it for the daughter after the local lube joint stripped her pan. Worked 100%
if you put a nut all the way in before cutting, after taking the nut off, it will fix the thread and make it easier to screw on.. :)
Great insight, Grasshopper.
I found the bolt I needed at Home Depot for my 06 Odyssey, I think the length was 40 or 45 mm. I added some yellow "black pipe" Teflon for good measure, I didn't cut it as it appeared close to the correct length, I just added a washer, put on the Teflon, and threaded it in. Fixed my problem, no leaks at all!!! Thanks for saving me a ton of cash and time!!!
A shop stripped my mothers oil pan plug.
HOW fucking hard is is to hand twist a 14mm nut.
@motorztv It happes way more than you might think, at the dealer I was getting at least one or two of these a month, brand new cars too, we used to joke that the first thing to go bad in a car was the drain plug. I've even put engines in cars because of stuff like this, hence my animosity or in the case of this video my quiet rage. Thanks for taking the time to watch motorztv.
Tap and dye...
That would work too. You could also use a helicoil also.
Whats a heli coil
@@patrickodonnell9770 It's like Google
@@incandescentwithrage keep taking the tablets
@CivicFiberglassDoor That sucks. I've had to replace a few pans myself because of such carelessness, after I found this trick however I replaced them a lot less unless I knew the place that had damaged it in the first place was footing the bill, then I changed the pan and charged full price.
Helicoil
+ratcamaro That can cause the pan to crack. That must be done very carefully.
Eric the word GENIUS was reserved just for you I think
I enjoy your videos because they're down to earth no-nonesense mechanical tips and tutorials, also you admit when you make mistakes which is humbling to see
PLEASE whatever you do don't stop making videos like this they are more educational and entertaining to view than you could imagine!
Stay dirty and stay on youtube!
Peace out
You just put in an oversize drain plug:
You're giving bad advice to 241,050 people
+Indrekk Pringi Which potentially gets metal shavings in the oil pan. Great idea.
+nik12937
Never happened and never will
get a life
whatever works u could tap it out and pour oil in there flush it out or use longer bolt. same difference this is simpler
NO HE DIDN'T!
a "one over" is a temporary fix at best that essentially ruins the oil pan, even IF you get it started straight.
Great video!! I came across that situation on my Honda Civic a month ago, i had to replace the oil pan, I spent $285 to fix it. I went to home depot and no one could tell me sizes or were able to help me, so i end up replacing it. If only i`ve found your RUclips channel before and watched this video i could have safe some money. Thanks Eric, great job!!!
@techgood Yea doing it yourself is a good way to prevent damage to your drain bolts and it also gives you the chance to get to know your truck better. Thanks very much for your comment, I'm glad you like the videos.
You were a life saver on this, saved me $400+! I just bought a M14-1.5 hexagonal metric bolt that was 30mm long and added a washer, didn't have to cut it down or smooth it out. The hardest part was finding the bolt at a local hardware store, Lowes and Home Depot didn't have it.
I should add that to anyone that stripped out their oil pan, you probably want to run a lot of oil through it, because it flushed out most of the metal shavings from it getting stripped.
David Richey what kind of vehicle did you use this longer bolt in? I just found that exact bolt at an Ace Hardware to use for my 2006 Honda Ridgeline and I was hoping I wouldn’t have to cut it to make it work.
Thanks in advance.
@ErickTheCarGuy....wow, you just saved me $590. I was searching for an oil pan for my 02 Acura RL...just like the Legend, it's a beast to take out and I've been getting quoted more than I can afford. I must admit, I tried the rubber plugs, but after seeing your video, and reading the comments, I'm off to the Mercedes dealership to purchase a longer drain plug! You really don't understand how much this saving is going to help me and my wife out! Continued success with your youtube career!
Great tip Eric !! Fortunately I've had enough common sense that you NEVER over tighten the drain plug bolt.. I always rub a little oil on the threads and feed it manually with my hands so I can feel and confirm it isn't cross threaded. I only give it a little "umpphh" when I tighten it back down but god forbit if I strip it I now know a cheap fix. What did that bolt cost you maybe $1-2 at the local Home Depot/Lowe's ? I love cheap and solid workarounds like this !! Saves time and money.
@EricTheCarGuy I work as a mechanic on the east coast of Canada. Ive replaced quite a few steel oil pans and transmission pans because they have rusted out to the point that they leak quite badly. The fact that aluminum pans don't rust out and leak the way steel pans can, may or may not have anything to do with it but i am glad my oil pan is aluminum. The newest vehicle i replaced a rusted leaking steel pan was on a 2007.
@ncrdisabled I don't recommend drilling into an oil pan to avoid the risk of getting metal shavings in the oil. In addition drilling into oil pans on cars can be harder than you might imagine. Thanks for the comment.
I work in industrial maintenance and am occasionally annoyed at how others will hugely overtighten bolts, screws and other connections on the factory equipment, all its doing is wearing out the threads.
This is a well edited comprehensive video that gets to the point. I gave it a like.
Thank you! Saved me a giant headache! Changing the oil for the first time in my son's used car. Drainplug totally stripped, surprised it wasn't leaking oil. Local hardware stores didn't have the right size bolt but the after market one I bought at Autozone was almost double the length of the drainplug. Worked perfect.
Wow you saved my rear, 04 Pilot I stripped the theads myself. My heart sank, then found this video, I can breath now!. Save me hundreds of dollars & easy fix. I have learned my lesson on aluminum pans, easy go with it.
@KillerZero259 If you get a stock drain plug it will be of the same length and will do you no good, the idea here is to use a longer bolt to catch the undamaged threads deeper in the pan casting and the longer bolt will accomplish this.
Loved this video. Not sure how I got here but loved this video. Had to teach this same lesson to one of my friends whereas he just LOVES his air tools. I love mine too but whereas I have learned the painful mistake of aluminum & air tools, he did not know of my problem I had so many years ago and he just made this mistake a few months ago. And your method is CHEAP & Inexpensive. Unlike some of the Tap & Die, Welding, and other skills many people do not know or have or the funds to do so. Cheers.
Just wanted to say thanks for the tip! over torqued my 02 Civic drain bolt enough to screw up the threads (by hand) and this saved me a new pan. I would add that I needed to FULLY strip out the damaged threads before the new bolt threaded, then I also found that you CAN have too much thread. I needed to trim my bolt down a second time to roughly 15 threads showing or else it seemed to bottom out. Can't believe my factory plug had only FIVE threads biting in that ALUMINUM pan!! Ugh
@smitty6293 Not sure really but depending on your situation you may end up replacing the pan in the end. You might also consider taking it back where the oil was changed to see if they can do anything for you.
I swear, Erics worth every friggin penny!!
@310stanger I would say it would apply to aluminum oil pans in general. As you run the fastener in by hand you should be able to feel if it's binding or something, if it is then back it out and try again. The point is to take your time and do it right if not you'll be putting a new pan in. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for not being a couch potato and coming up with a simple brilliant fix :)
@Bushougoma Drilling into oil pans on the car is trickier than you might think. Also by the time you got done drilling your timecert hole I would already be filling the car with oil, not to mention the cost difference between a timecert and my blot. Your suggestion about using a nut is a good one however that is why I grind a taper into the bolt before I install it, this not only makes it easier to install but gets rid of any burs on the bolt. Thanks for your comment.
@ManicMechanic007 That's a great suggestion but that is also the reason I round the end after cutting, in addition to helping start the threads it gets rid of all the burs that show up after cutting. Thanks for your comment.
I've watched this a few times because it's not only informative, it's hilarious, thanks Eric. :)
I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum. The longer bolt worked great. No more drip... I had to go to 3 different hardware stores before I found it.... Thanks dude .... You saved me a bunch of money..... 14mm x 1.5 pitch...... :)
@FaithfulAnnO Glad you liked the video and that you empathize. I look forward to that meeting. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks Eric, this worked perfectly on my daughter's 2010 Ford Fusion. After 140,000 miles the old pan couldn't take it any longer!
@fancynot Nothing makes me more proud than the "art" crowd stopping in to watch my little "mechanical" videos. I think it brings a touch of culture to the mix. Thanks for the comment.
IT WORKS !!! You're AWESOMENESS good sir. Thank you so much for this fix. My 2010 Mazda 3 got a stripped drain plug from Valvoline Quickie Lube place so now I will not be so lazy and do my own again.
@jambe1234567 The regular drain plug threads would be damaged, there are threads deeper in the pan that are not damaged that the longer bolt will be able to take advantage of. It's not that they are designed that way but when you make a threaded hole it depends on how deep the hole is how far the threads go.
@gesundheit6210 I recommend trying this first rather than drilling into the pan, it's faster and it doesn't leave a bunch of metal shavings in the oil pan. Thanks for the comment.
I use Fumoto drain valves on all my cars. Love them. One time install and never have to worry about stripping oil pans. I've never had one leak so much as a drop of oil.
@AnUglyAmerican I think it's good practice to use 6pt sockets on everything instead of 12pt, the only time I use 12pt is when I have a 12pt fastener to remove. I agree about putting metal shavings in the oil pan, bad idea and would take more time than my method. Thanks for your suggestion and comment.
From MCM to lab japan I find ericthecarguy info. Straight to the point common issues.. keep it up!!
Dude you are the best. Ive done that with other things and forgot all about just using a longer bolt. Thanks again
@Begbucks That would take longer and put metal shavings in the oil pan. Also, have you ever tried to drill an oil pan while it's still on the car? It's often not as easy as you might think. As for plastic oil pans, I haven't seen too many of them but I would be just as careful if not more so working with them.
@mixwell1983 Great suggestion. I like fixes like this to, simple and efficient. Thanks for your comment.
@BHownsall I believe that is the default setting of the AC when it detects a problem for Toyota. The battery may have nothing to do with it as it could just have a low charge. I recommend taking it to a shop to have the AC diagnosed.
Before I take a cutting blade to any bolt, I'll spin a pair of hex nuts all the way down the bolt. After cutting the bolt, you slowly remove the nuts. They will work similar to a die set and help form a nice tapered thread at the start of the bolt.
The other option for fixing a stripped thread (depending on severity) is to use a tap set to re-cut the threads, then use a proper drain plug, new sealant washer, and of course a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the proper spec.
Great video!
@ghtowagon The hardware store didn't have any flange bolts in that size. Thanks for your comment.
@SzymekCRX That's an excellent point and I wish I would have put that in the video, thanks for your comment.
@310stanger Been there a BUNCH of times myself. Thanks very much for your comment I really appreciate it.
Bam! Love it. I’ve never let anyone work on my car. I’m 44. Turned wrenches from age 16 to 32 and hung it up because, well let’s face it, it’s a tough way to make a buck. Anyway I let some ass clown change the oil a few months ago as I was really busy. One time won’t hurt right? Went to change it today and the genius either cross threaded or torqued the plug with a 1/2 impact. I will never let anyone ever touch my car again. Was ready to order an oil pan and bum a ride to work tomorrow and I found this fix. $3 and a trip to menards and I’m back back in business. Thank you.
@AGreedyTree I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug but that doesn't mean you couldn't. The point is not to over tighten which seems to be the tendency.
@OMG55699 Those aren't long enough, the reason you use the longer bolt is because the standard ones are stripped out and the threads wont' catch, just installing a new plug will not work if it's stripped out.
@michaelfx1 That has been mentioned in several of the comments below, thank you for your input.
@4711Express That is an excellent suggestion and I wish I would have put it into the video. Thanks for the comment.
I hope this works on my 2005 honda accord. The dealer is charging me 500 bucks to do a time insert job.Thank you.
@Moosepiesandwich Thank you very much for that great comment. It's nice to have such a diverse group of viewers, thanks again for your comment and for watching.
@jmihalchik Great suggestion however if you grind a taper on the bolt as I did in the video you would not only remove any burs on the bolt but you will also make it easier to install. Thanks for your comment.
@ChrisTwitty I should just copy and paste this response: drilling might leave metal in the oil pan, the bolt is much cheeper and much easier to install and works very well. In short, you could but knowing all that, why?
Much love for Eric and his channel had this issue with a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid I only had 1 or 2 threads left with my pan, I was freaking out called my mechanic best course in that situation retap the pan 9/16 and upsize the bolt. 9/16 is between 14mm and 15mm if it strips again you can then retap to 15mm saved me a ton of time and worry if you have no threads left you can still save your pan just need a good fine bolt with a rubber coated washer
@larlar752000 That's not the issue, sometimes I upload a video long before it goes live and it doesn't show up as new as a result, I'm working on a solution to that however stay tuned.
Found a plug a little longer than the last and it worked perfectly didn't even have to cut. I would not have though of this. Saved a bunch with a $2 purchase. Thanks!
@Bobman84 I would be much easier indeed but I don't have the ceiling height for it. I'll be looking for a new shop soon and hopefully it will have a lift or space for me to put one. Thanks for your comment. I'm glad you like the videos.
I've had to do similar adjustments with bolts. And not having a die grinder or a bench grinder I had to use a hacksaw. To maintain the integrity of the threads, I put a nut on the longer bolt and using the vise and hacksaw, cut it at the very end of the nut. It acts sort of like a tap-and-die threader when I remove the nut. Finish off the end of the bold with a fine "toothed" file just to round it off a bit. Just my method. :)
Thanks for the tips!! Awesome quality.
@Michiganborn1969 I did mention that you could use a hack saw to get the job done instead of the cut off wheel. The bolt is too long to go into the pan by itself, it will bottom out before it tightens up. Drain plugs are far away from the sump so that is also not an issue. As to the other part of your comment I think the real issue is that you would get paid better and have better insurance if you worked at McDonald's than if you worked at one of the quick lube joints.
it works very good and when i went to buy the bolt i bought M14 X1.5MM 30MM ,I ihave nothing to cut it was just the perfect size (30 MM). Thanks you EricTheCarGuy
@gerrysauto Yea, that should be a given. Thanks for the comment.
Eric, you have got to review this product it will truly help your followers and save them a lot of time and money.
that blows my mind that people would use a impact wrench to tighten a drain plug!of course the week our local supercenter opened i fixed 7 oil pans that they destroyed,so i guess not that surprised!good job,keep it up bro,GOD bless you!
@choi3ed Let me put it this way, if your engine is old and has run regular oil stay with it and save your money. I've seen more than one occasion where someone switched to synthetic or 'special' oil only to find that it leaks more and burns more oil after the switch. That stuff is good for new engines but I don't recommend it for old ones.
I stripped out my drain plug on my bike before, hard lesson.
Installed a Heli-Coil instead though, turned out really nice and saved the cost of buying a new pan, but i did take the pan off... so very labor intensive.
Thank you!! You helped me out when my sibling stripped their oil pan.. the bolt was fine, just would not grab anymore. Took 5 visits to different hardware stores but finally got the right sized bolt m14 x 1.5 and cut it down, sanded the edges and it worked beautifully.