Stripped Thread Repair: How To Install Thread Inserts
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- Опубликовано: 15 июн 2024
- While doing the final repairs on my T-5 Transmission I needed to do some thread repair. Because of that, I decided to make this quick video on how to repair threads with thread inserts. I use a Heilicoil in this video, but this information will apply to most thread insert repair kits.
I get my thread repair kits here: www.jbtoolsales.com/search.ph...
Thread Measuring Kit: www.jbtoolsales.com/irwin-120...
Link to T-5 Repair Updates Video: Video link posted when video available
Camera: Brian Kast
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Развлечения
For whatever it's worth, back in my machinist days I was taught to take one full turn on the tap, then reverse 1/4 turn, then another full turn and so on until you reach bottom. This is intended to prevent the tap from binding on its own shavings, which can cause the tap to snap off. You shouldn't be in a hurry to tap a hole, and you want to anticipate when the tap will bottom out because if you are too aggressive with the twisting torque as you reach bottom, you risk snapping the tap off in the hole. That makes for a really bad day.
+Mike Hartmann Excellent points, thanks for your input.
Watching this again in 2024 - Damn, Eric; you've saved my ass more than I care to admit. Appreciate you, brother!
Incredible video! I couldn't have fixed my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee transmission pan stripped threads without this awesome video. Btw, I have the same size fasteners. The only reason why I decided to fix it myself is because of how chill you were in this video. If you were all stressed out, I would have taken it to a mechanic.
This tip saved my bacon doing a transmission service on my 1979 Dodge Power Wagon. Five stripped transmission bolt holes about made me go crazy. Now all bolts are snug and properly torqued thanks to Heli-Core and your video. Thanks a ton!
I’m
Why not just jump up to the next bolt size??
Thanks for the video. I appreciate the fact that you get straight to the point and keep it simple yet are very informative. Keep them coming!
Thank you you helped save my dirtbike I was stressed the F out for 2 days and decided to use your video. Worked like a charm 👍👍.
Dude I been following you for years and your videos are the best on RUclips, very simple straight to the point and good quality man, thanks for sharing your knowledge Eric the amazing car guy and don’t get me wrong I don’t just say this to anybody keep up the good work.Omar from Atlanta Georgia
Great video when your stuck and don't do this very often or first time, just working out the thread size and pitch is not easy - thanks helped me a lot.
Helicoils offer some flexibility as well. You can trim them for shallow threads, or stack them for more thread engagement.
Glad to see you back on your T5. I followed the Videos from you and Paul. Completed my T5 rebuild recently, took the Mustang out yesterday for the first time, shifts great! What a difference 93 new parts makes ! Thanks again for the videos.
Don
Glad they helped. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I stripped the bolt hole to my thermostat housing I tried thread inserts but when I screw the bolt in it wouldn't stay in place. The size of the bolts was m8 1.25
Thank you for posting this Eric. Tonight I will be installing a Heli-Coil. I stripped the threads while installing a tension pulley.
Just a quick tip for you. Use Keenserts, much better than heli coils, stronger, won't unscrew and easily replaced if they ever do wear out. Been a machinist and tool and die maker for 42 years and never had to replace one yet.
Just used EZ Lock inserts. After helucoils failed in my aluminum block and found that timeserts wouldn’t work, I was thrilled to find that the ez lock insert is a just a bit larger and it held securely. Saved me from a block replacement.
Simple but informative, no unnecessary bs, Great!!
These things are great! Here's a tip. I was helping my son putting one of these in for the waterpump on a 1.5l mitsubishi 4cyl. There wasn't enough room for the insert tool so I cut the end off a stubby screwdriver and cut a notch in the shaft.. That fitted the little tab so I could screw the insert in.
Great idea, thanks.
You're awesome dude thank you!
really nice DYI Eric! I seen these at work since we stock them quite often but didnt know much about them till i saw your video!
Thanks!
A proper thread repair unlike some of the bodges on You Tube. Well done Eric.
Great video Eric ! Simple and straight to the point. Thanks !
you are awesome. people look to you as a mechanic/technician they can trust. youve shown your credibility. i agree when you say more people should go into this field with a passion and honest desire to fix vehicles. thank you for your videos
Thank you very much for that comment. Made my day actually.
This is just what i needed because i need to repair the thread on my engine head and its M6-1. Thank you very much
I've rebuilt alot engine's and transmissions and have yet to retread bolt holes but that's about to change I've got a 429 that the timing cover has 3 bad holes and watching this video will help to do it thumbs up 👍.
Only 5 years late getting in on this DIY masterpiece. I would think that the open end of the combo wrench might be a better "plan B" for size checking, but the 12 pt box end would be better than a 6 pt.. I requested for Christmas several years ago a set of metric and SAE male/female thread size checkers that went from really small up to about 3/4"/ 19mm and they were on separate small stranded cables so they would fit in a portable tool box nicely, unlike the wall mount thingies the big box/hardware stores have. Pretty sure they came from McMaster/Carr and made in the US. They were like $25 each, but there isn't a week goes by that I don't grab one string or the other to check thread size and or pitch. WORTH EVERY PENNY!
You had a relatively easy drill/tap/ insert there on the workbench. Try drilling out a snapped of 6x1.0 flange bolt on the backside of the driver side cylinder head on a First Gen Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I was lucky only 1 of the 18 bolts that held the valve covers on snapped off since by the looks of the conditin of the valve cover gaskets, they were the OEM from the factory and this motor has 203k on it. The torque spec for tightening is a whopping 54 inch/pounds. thanks again sir Eric. You have had GURU status with me for several years and keep up the You Tube vibe....you wear it very well!
I used a HeliCoil to fix a stripped hole on the convertible-top frame on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 -- that was 12 years ago, and it's still holding today. Works great!
Helicoils are generally much stronger than the original thread and so will last forever. 🙂
Man. I didn't even think about using box wrenches to size bolts! Great video, thanks for the help. You even used the same brand helicoil I'm about to use.
Awesome tutorial! Just what I needed to learn. Thanks for posting!
I'm doing a head gasket job on my wife's 2004 Subaru Baja at 200k. I've already found several snapped and rounded fasteners, leading me to curse the un-skilled person who pulled the engine last time.
Installing my newly cleaned and resurfaced heads today, I discovered that out of the ten valve cover bolt holes, five are stripped. (three on one head, two on the other.) This is pretty easy to do, since the torque spec is just 15 ft-lbs. Off to NAPA for a Helicoil kit.
Imagine my joy to find one of my favorite car repair gurus installing the exact same 6x1.00 helicoil kit on RUclips.
Thanks, Eric!
Same here repairing 3 valve cover threads on a 03 honda accord v6
Straight to the point. Thanks. This is why he has 2 million subscribers.
Great quality on the vid plus excellent details on the whole procedure.....
When I am going to be using a tap and die set anyway I just use the tap as a thread gauge of course you still need to be certain of your diameter, check both bolt and tap with dial calipers or micrometer. Worked well for me the last thirty years. Thanks Eric, good job, thanks for the passing on your knowledge.
+Sam Johnson I also just take the fastener and lay it up against a tap of the size I think is correct. It was just easier to show it this way. Thanks for your input.
Welcome. Keep em coming Eric.
Eric another great video , thank you for being my mentor!
Thanks I have to get all the stuff you used and do my guide pin for my Caliper. Great how to 🤘✴️🔆➗📀👹💥☠️🏁
Hi Eric...I have watched several of your videos....always good. Just noticed I was not subscribed. But I am now.
Anyway, I was trying to find how to get a broken bolt out of a residential propane tank capacity gauge. Four bolts--3 came out fine, 1 broke off down deep. Have tried everything. Kept trying to protect the threads getting that piece out. Then I saw a video that sort of mentioned inserting new threads.
Long story short I realize this is going to be the route to take---unless you or any other viewers have some other advice or suggestions.
Thanks a million for all your good videos. Jesus bless.
Great Video. I now have the confidence to do my stripped LS head rocker bolt hole! Thank you
Eric, it helps to add threadlocker to the outside of these so they don't come out when you remove fasteners later. if you're worried about ever needing to replace the heli-coil later a little heat will aide in their removal or you can use the weaker blue locktite. I've used the stronger red locktite in them in the past with no issues, saves the fear of pulling out an insert, losing it etc. Thanks!
Ah, just read your responses to other threadlocker comments below, I believe this falls under the "Do what you want, but here's some other wisdom that can be helpful" category. Good job.
I don't use thread locker in this video because it wasn't listed in the instructions. Thanks for your input.
Did this on my mower carb... Worked like a charm
Thanks Eric ,, i didn't know these things existed ,, well,, untill you need them ,,I'm a woodturner ,, i have stripped the thread on the tool rest holder (banjo) , thought i would have to drill and tap a new thread but then I'ed have to use a bigger bolt and wrench ,,I don't want to go on that route,, all i need now is to find a garage to help,, don't need to buy the kit for one coil,, stay safe ,,Regards Alf
Another awesome how to video. Thanks Eric
Thank you Eric, fantastic video.
Love this. Easy and to the point.
Thanks, helped explain it clearly and concisely. Big help.
Thanks buddy. You’re a great teacher!
YESSS the T5 returns!
Helpful information, thank you for sharing sir !
Thank you very much! going to get this done on a TH350 this weekend
What great little invention these are.
Saved the day, thank you Eric! -Robert
Ayy man! I wish you would have put this out last month when I had to do it! Great video though!
Saved me big time bud!!!
Thank you for this video
i've never seen it done like this. very handy.
when I was in my sloburu I inserted a helicoil for a head stud. held up great :) I'm so happy it helped me get my 300 dollar car going.
I needed to fix two bolt holes in my Forester when I replaced the head gasket. I hope that everything held up for the next owner.
@@drippingwax 🤣
thanks for the video. did exactly like you and worked great
Best explanation yet!
Thanks
1972 k20 th350 flexplate cover previous owner jammed whatever he had in the holes, didn’t last?
That clue at the end...thanks for that Eric😉... Bigger is better...i torqued the threads right of an aluminum engine...they coulndt handle 35 ft lb...
Thanks for doing that. I have always wanted to know how to do that.
Very interesting and informative video!
Thank you so much! Learned a new skill today!
Never thought about using wrenches or sockets to get a rough size of a bolt. I always went with a known fastener comparison, or a tap and die set with a pitch gauge. Although I’ve come across some crappy tap and die sets where especially the small sizes are manufactured so terribly lol
Another great video. Thanks.
Dude, you lost some weight, lookin good brother! Havnt seen one of ur vids for long time. Great video, need to do some repair on a vintage Suzuki exhaust port, thanks.
Great video mate 👍 The only thing I'd do differently is use a drill press to insure a square drill a tap. I know that would be quite difficult with an odd shaped casing like you have. Cheers
Thank you, Erick.
well presented Eric … 👍
Nice one Eric.
Whilst changing the cam belt on my Renault Kangoo Van, I cross-threaded the cambelt tensioner bolt, (in the dark, in my driveway, in the rain, in near freezing conditions, working one handed whilst trying to hold the cam belt in-situ).
I ran it through with an M8x1.25 tap, but the bolt won’t torque up to 25NM. So now my options are......
1: Get a replacement cylinder head from a scrapyard
2: Take the head off and send it to a machine shop to be machined
3: (my preferred option) remove the engine and use a helicoil to re-thread the bolt hole.
Some days I just wish I’d bought a new van, but this one is rust free, (a rarity around these parts).
Renault Kangoos are awful.. god I hate those vans, especially the shitty stirrup style handbrake
or maybe slime some jb weld in there and use that as material to re tap and heli into. ... could work if find a way to smear it on the outside, drill it out straight.. etc. 2 years ago but someone has that question in 2022 , too
Nice neat job done mate.🇦🇺🦘
Thanks, very helpful.
Nice video, good job, one thought though is that this was a blind hole and although it looked like it was deep enough to accommodate the bolt this is not always the case, in such situations you should use a bottoming tap so that you can cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. All manufactures will have such a tap for their inserts but often is a separate order. For what it is worth, thanks for the video.
You really don't need to cut the threads all the way down. Just far enough to get the insert into place.
Thank you Eric.
i think time certs are definitely better in A LOT of ways. also don't forget some red loctite on the heli coil or time cert whichever you're using!
+AntiD2 It wasn't listed in the instructions so I didn't include that in the video.
I use a thread checker tool which works fantastic to find a specific bolt or nut size. I made a video on the tool if your interested I can post it with your permission Eric. Take care
Feel free. I also have one listed in the description.
+KRAYSLiCK999 No it is not.
@KRAYSLiCK999 I read that Loctite isn't recommended because aluminum and steel expand differently.
Interesting vid - never seen them installed
Thanks a lot, great video!!
Very helpful and might have to do this to my motorcycle
The other advantage of using the same bolt is that when the next guy takes the fasteners off, he doesn't have to be sure to put the right bolt back into the tapped hole, (and he can use the same size wrench as all the others).
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Zain Liam Instablaster =)
@Adam Marcos thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Adam Marcos It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
@Zain Liam glad I could help :D
Thanks for the great video
Good JOB. Thanks
Thanks Another technique for repairs😀
thanks for the video!!!
Thanks Erick, U-D-BOMB !!.
fyi when i dont have time to explaine things to the girl i tell her to watch ur vedios just thought u mite enjoy that eric thanks keep up the good work
That's awesome. Thanks for the comment.
Thank u. Very helpful!
You just helped me save my T5. I pulled the threads on the transmount bolt holes, and I'm about to use one to fix them. Wish me luck 😅
Great video, I need to do this on my aluminium cam cover. The one good thing is that the inserts are usually stainless steel so it actually makes it stronger, being a steel bolt into stainless threaded hole, rather the original steel bolt in an aluminium threaded hole, if you catch my drift.
Would it be worth using thread lock on the inserts to ensure they stay in place??
yes, my mechanic does that
Thanks great video.👍
Dude I really like your videos :-)
To this day, i've never in my life seen these before. I seen them on Ali Express and had to see them in action.
these helicoils saved my butt when my explorer stripped the threads on a spark plug hole 30 buck kit vs a whole new head for the motor ill take it!!!!
Super video! I smashed my nuts threads on my bash plate mounts 4wd I was wondering how much pressure can you apply to those new thread??? Thanks!
My lecturer at the college of engineering showed us your tutorial back in 2012/13. Sad to say he died from cancer. Life goes on for everyone else. Your looking way younger than before lol. I've lost my hair, and look like Kojak. My neighbour colours his hair and walks out looking like a sooty spark plug. I'm sorry just reviving an old thread. Pun intended haha.
i always like your videos hermano!
Fantastic!
That tool is designed to snap that tab off so no need for a punch
I was able to turn it counter-clockwise, to get it to snap off. Also keep in mind I used an angle grinder, to make sure the insert was smaller or same length as the hole.
Never seen that coil starter tool before. Seems like it could make those things a bit easier to get started.
+sienile It does. Not using it is more difficult.
Good video. Any particular reason you didn't lock the heli coil in with thread locker red? I thought that was standard practice when inserting new threads.
Thank you!!
Very good
good instruction
Great video as always Eric, did I spy a craftsman 6 point wrench? Love mine, have saved my bacon with rounded fasteners.
WOW......thanks man
I like to use thread locker on the outside threads of the insert. And put anti size on the bolt that is going into that insert. Doing that will prevent the insert from backing out.
I do the same. I use red thread locker not blue
+Frank Gonzalez It wasn't listed in the instructions so I didn't include that in the video.
+Frank Gonzalez
Helicoil engineering says not to use thread locker (Loctite).
The insert will not easily back out if installed properly and the tang is broken off.
Using anti-seize is not a problem and is recommended on moderate to high temp applications, also when there are dissimilar metals such as steel bolts and aluminum housing.
Non-hardening thread sealer can be used on though hole installations to prevent leaking fasteners.
I worked at a Cadillac dealership. The first generation Northstar engines had problems with the threads for the cylinder heads would strip out. The repair kit had insterts that went into the block. I would put thread locker on those inserts. I never had a comeback due to the head bolt repairs I did. If you do or don't use thread locker inserts is up to you, from my experience I do.
I know all about it. I HATE those engines. Thanks for the tips and comment.
you are the prof
Something else to think about is running a die over the bolt. Great video Eric.
Thanks for sharing
Roy
+Roy Wrenn I often take them to the wire wheel. Die's can be too abrasive and also stress the threads. Thread chasers are a better option, although I don't own a set. Thanks for your input.
+EricTheCarGuy I agree with you a thread chaser is a good option. I didn't think about that at the time. I use a wire wheel most of the time. I need to invest in a set of tap and dies.