Time Sert vs. Heli Coil | Best Damaged Thread Repair | Best Thread Inserts | Partzilla.com
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2022
- So, how do you replace the threads on an engine block?
It happens: a speedy repair, a bit of carelessness, and the threads are stripped on your engine block. So what happens next?
You can choose a Helicoil or a Time Sert, and in this video from Partzilla.com, we’ll help you decide which is better: the Time Sert or the Helicoil for your specific repair.
We’ll start with the Helicoil, and show you how it is installed-- which is simple so don’t be intimidated by the process. Then, we’ll move to the Time Sert, which takes a little more time and effort, but for your repair it might be a better fit.
Read more about whether a Helicoil or a Time-Sert is the right solution for you: www.partzilla.com/blog/heli/c...
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Gave this a "LIKE" simply because he listed the options as "A" and "TWO".
Been doing this since my wife and I met. She only noticed recently. Now it drives her nuts.
Good Video.
When working on a race car pit crew years ago, we Heli-Coiled all of the critical holes that we could and they never failed. We even Heli-Coiled the lug nuts because we had several times where they would get cross threaded before we Heli-Coiled them. I think the threads were getting worn even though we used Anti-Seize every time the nuts were removed. We never had to replace a Heli-Coiled lug nut despite going on and off hundreds of times and they never cross-threaded. Likewise, with the other Heli-Coils, we installed in the engine and other critical areas - they NEVER had to be replaced and we never had the threads pull out. Heli-coils with hardened stainless steel threads are far stronger than aluminum or cast iron. We've used thousands of them in the past 45 years in business.
If you watch how loose the Time Sert was when being installed into the hole, it likely would have failed an official thread test. It is strongly recommended to use oil whenever drilling or taping metals. Otherwise, you get holes and threads cut oversize - and lose a lot of strength. Of course you want to degrease the outside of the Time Sert as well as the hole when planning to use Locktite to retain the TIme Sert. With Helicoils, you never have to use Locktite because the spring pressure prevents them from moving and we always used oil to install the Heli-coils.
Both are great products - especially with aluminum blocks, heads and so many other parts. The Time Serts work well on plastic too (such as intake manifolds, etc). We use a soap solution for lubrication when installing either Time Serts or Heli-Coils in plastic parts to maintain hole and thread size within specifications.
Hello.
Quality top notch answer there, one can really tell you know stuff.
A question: In the first half of your answer it sounds like you think helicoils are best.
But at the bottom you write both are great products. - Could you please tell in which situations Helicoils are best? - And in which situations TimeCerts are best? :-)
Thanks a lot NaberAuto! :-)
AWESOME... but did you see what happens after a year or more in a corrosive environment, like say, on an outboard that runs saltwater?
It's a TOTALLY different ballgame.
Heli Coil was invented and used in air craft engines. Was much stronger than the original threads. To say it is a temp fix is not true. Heli Coil is a proven technology. Also, your first hole you drilled was crooked.
It's partzilla, they WANT you to spend more money. That's why they always recommend the most expensive option.
Great job explaining these options. Thanks.
I'm sold on time-serts for their ability to handle a lot of torque. I repaired 7/16 inch mounting holes for a 62 Fairlane strut bracket, using fine threads to increase torquing power. They are costly and a blind hole sometimes doesn't offer enough room to run the insert tool deep enough to flare out the insert. Heli coils are fine in low torque applications. I used them to repair the carb stud holes on my vintage edelbrock intake, and they are just fine. And far less expensive.
Great video as always! 👍
Caliper thread repaird whit stainless hardsteel time insert, came in a kit. Drill tap metric m9 1.25
Strong and saved a lot of hassle changing complete hub.
Good video. Thanks.
Thanks for the video was very helpful.👍
beautiful video !!!!!! very helpful, now to practice and use it on the work field.
Buen vídeo felicitaciones saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Timesert is right. Good advice.
Fun video, very informative. Thank you very much
Heli-coils are not a 'one time use' or 'emergency repair only'. I've used them many times.
Thanks for the video. Just an FYI, Time Sert’s instructions stress that you want to avoid bottoming out the insertion tool. So only run the tool through the Time Sert until it gets easy to turn, which means the bottom threads have expanded and locked the insert into the hole. No need to go any further.
Heli is great! If you can't drill or tap straight, why would I take your opinion?
I would definitely use a Time Sert with red Loctite, seems like a winning combination.
Used time serts for years in the air cooled vws
Great video - In shop class we were always taught to use cutting oil / motor oil whenever drilling or cutting threads. WD40 is a good cutting oil as well
Cutting oil is the exact opposite of engine oil look into it. They taught you wrong. Cutting oil mates surfaces engine oil seprates them.
Great video for sure I was debating between going with a helicoil and comparison to the time sert. You've helped me make my decision I will be going with the Time-Sert.
How long do these timeserts last? Thanks again
I have used a keen sert with the small keys that you drive in locking the insert permeant.
Nice bit of dovetail bolting.
Using a tap wrench instead of a spanner gives much better control and helps to keep the tap straight. Clamping the casing so it doesnt spin is aslo a good idea for several reasons and don't forget your safety glasses especially using compressed air to eject the cuttings🤕 All being said great video to show the comparisons. Thank you
Tap wrench is a good idea, I'm just about to do a snapped nipple on an RS4 caliper..
I cringed when the spanner came out 😄
But I don't think heli has moved I dud at 1st I'll inspect once I get cylinder back off . And stud out (bolt I mean) just don't get how it's broken before torquing up
Not sure if you'll reply but I've just got onto my old bike mechanic he's gonna reppace my heli for a timesert it seems so much better especially for my situation being a hg bolt into crank case for head gasket
good video. the guy is not an obnoxious know it all. did not talk for 20 minutes only to show the difference between the two
Very helpful video!
Presumably if you were doing this "for reals" you'd want to use (a) a drill press, stepping up the drill bit sizes, (b) a tap handle to guide the tap (maybe (c) a tap follower too since you've got the drill press), (d) cutting fluid, and (e) compressed air to blow out the swarf and the broken tab of the helicoil.
And drill the hole straight!
Ugh😪 so hard to watch him strip them on purpose... my stomach went down to my knees... I almost cried a little bit 🥺
They were sacrificed in the name of RUclips...
Man up son
Just think of it this way: the casing gave its body to science.
It's like med students learning on a cadaver. Hopefully that part was never going to be reinstalled anywhere.
First one went in sooooo crooked
Helicoil tang will snap off by simply turning the slotted insertion tool backwards, there is a weak point designed to snap.
Are you ok?
I've just bought an M10x1.0 from Wurth. Sheared a bleed nipple on an Audi RS4 Caliper.. decided on the Timesert due to the solid insert..
Yeah getting my heli in crank replaced in same way piece of mind
Great video.... A huge help is to drill out the threads in steps with oil on the drill, and the drill will follow the hole, and maintain the correct hole size much better than going in with just 1 drill.
Do you sell time serts? I’ve needed a couple different sizes like your helicoil kits before.
I've used both and preferable use time serts
The tool for inserting the helicoil is used to remove the tang. Just twist in opposite direction. It naturally locks in place as unscrewing it expands it. It can't go anywhere. By using punch you run the risk of dislodging the bottom thread or two of the coil insert. JS 😜
Why is it that most say to hit the tang off once installed ? I thought that was how they work ? Would not allow the stud/bolt to pass it if needed ?
Awesome teaching skills!
The dealer says my rear gearbox plug threads are nonexistent and he’s going to fix it with some kind of pipe plug. I’m not mechanical but stumbled here in trying to educate myself. I want to understand the problem and be able to fix it myself if it reoccurs. How do I know what size Time-Sert to order for my ATV? I don’t even know where to start or how to search for it. Thank you for a great video!
What if there is a hair line crack on the inside of the crankcase.i have a stripped out head bolt on my100 cc 2 cycle mortor what can i do to save it.its a new mortor any tips
you don't need a punch to break the tang you just remove the installation tool turn it 90 degrees, push down and break the tang then remove it from the hole.
helicoils can be used indefinitely they are not one time use only. they are also stronger than time serts and take more torque to yield.
Can I do heilcoil on my reeds cage ?
So at the end of the day which has better torque, sheer, pull strength? Also if a blind hole was deep enough could you use a timesert over a heli coil any issue with this besides cost and overkill
Well never heard of a time sert. Been using heil coils for years. But I would like to see a cost comparison. Heli coils have got ubber expensive like everything else. I have a few kits I've paid in excess of $75.00 each, to fix one hole. But that expense was also I needed it right now rather than waiting a week or 2 for an online order. I have heli coiled head threads with no problems. Sometimes I drill out the alcoa and put in heli coils simply because over time the metal to alcoa monster growls and threads pull. And yes brake clean and red loc tite.
Why did you not show how to setup the helix oil insert tool and insert?
Would JB weld work with time sert , i know theres more mass but wouldn't the excess be able to get threaded
I had a thread repaired in a 500 Caddy intake manifold. It holds a bolt that secures the compressor but also blocks off vacuum as well as it goes through the intake runner. Bad design in my opinion. The machinist went with the Time Sert because of the durability.
Helicoils are incredible, Ive used them to on engine heads and are pretty much rated for at least 200lbs ft.
Hi I'm in process of getting my old bike mechanic to reppace my heli fir a timesert for piece of mind . Many say theure ok for temp fix . And read some have had a second keak from a heli on a head . For some reason my head bolt that goes to heli passed its yield point and twisted then broke not sure why as I used 25nm in sequence that went OK then 37nm but broke very unhappy
WTF, 200ftlbs of torque. bruh i recently stripped my dirt bikes oil pan threads and that dog shit is rated at only 18ftlbs so i just cant rap my head around that
@@mranonymous7713 Theres a video on all the diff helicoil and thread insert brands being compared and their are some that go past that its insane
Ya a dirt bike not a car
which one do i use for my toilet?
Helicoils are better than time-Serts. There are at least 3 YT videos showing the failures of both. The Helicoils fared better than time-Serts.
Helicoil is all we used in aviation in my day. Good enough for an airliner or military jet good enough for cars.
Great video mate 👍 I'd advise anyone with access to a drill press to use that instead of a cordless drill. It looked like it wasn't completely square due to this method.
Agreed, and I observed the same in the video.
Unfortunately, a lot of the times I've had to do this the part was not something I could bring to the drill press (like a mount on the side of the motor), so I do my best to start slowly so I can see if the bit is cutting more on one side; then I adjust accordingly until my drill bit appears to shed chips equally on the entire perimeter of the hole.
If possible, maybe use a jig made on the drill press that you can bring to the engine, if necessary, but I've always had to just wing it.
There are always pros and cons - helicoils are good if the hole has good clearance but not too much and if installed properly - people always forget to drill out all the parent thread - and this can jack out the helicoil - they can skip threads if you dont pull slightly against them when carry out its installation- helicoils are prices well and robust - the cons are if the thread has hole has too much clearance the helicoil will not fix that - Time certs - industry standard / expensive - can fix a hole with larger clearance but a deep hole can present problems if there is no suitable counter bore to sop against and drilling a counter hole at the top to make it flush can also be problematic if there is an oil or water groove close by or the wall thickness is not there - so pros and cons one is no better than the other - its just that industry has leaned towards a solid insert rather than a coil - but that does not make it a better product…..!
Assuming none of those Time Sert cons are applicable, and that will be for a LOT of people at home working on their cars, Timesert is more durable and can handle far more torque. That's why it's approved by OEMs to repair engine blocks. It works in almost all cases and can be considered a permanent fix. Definitely not for the Helicoil.
Cost? What will it cost you to replace an engine block because you used a Helicoil?
@@roots4x I am inclined to disagree, just because the industry has leaned towards a particular brand - an insert of any type is only as strong as the material around it - a hole or the right pitch and clearance is necessary - I have seen time-certs fail on BMW M52 & M54 as overheating actually sinks the material between the liners and the aluminium alloy actually softens when going past a certain operating temperature (overheating) I have been doing automotive engineering for 25 years and have been using helicoils for just as long - If not installed properly they will pull especially fine pitched threads- Time Certs / WÜRTH have just priced them selves exorbitantly - Horses For Corses
If you go view several YT videos where they test torque to failure, the time certs did not do as well as the helicoil. The helicoil outlasted a grade 8 bolt...over 8,000psi. Helicoil is solid if installed properly.
you must be getting board, but thax for the vid
So is the Time Sert Threaded all the way onto the Driver Tool before you thread it into the newly tapped hole? Or is the Driver tool only partially threaded into Time Sert when you start to thread it?
It doesn't matter, because as you screw the time sert in with the tool. It will thread itself all the way down into the time sert and spread the bottom, locking the time sert into place. Hope that helps.
Square edge punch then you use a roll pin punch
I stripped the cam chain tensioner bolt on a 2018 honda grom. What route should I take?
I would suggest timesert. I tried helicoil and it failed. Bike shop fixed me up with timesert.
Do you put locktite or some thread locker on the helicoil?
No need to use Lock Tite.
Hi. I’ve 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 but when I put it in gear, it doesn’t move, the clutch just raise but no movement. Please help me with amending that problem.
It sounds like your pressure plate is stuffed? Insert 3/8” UNC helicoil two inches from the left of plate edge and, when complete, fair dump the clutch!
is the coil really important in this process cause you already used the tapping to carve the thread , what is the advantage of using the coil ?
the hole he tapped is bigger than it was before, the helicoil gets it back to original diameter, also helicoil gives a stronger thread than parent material
Where's the NS300L ?
i dont know shit but id probably use the cutting oil to begin with thanks for the video
Heli coil is stronger and more resistant to corrosion than the other hole repair kits!
Heli Coils are made out of Stainless Steel.
No links to the kits?
You need specific sizes based on your application.. can't link them all
Why did he drill first and not just Tapp and insert
Don't mention yamaha xjr torque settings for sump pan..way to high 40nm never never never..
That man cant drill or tap a hole straight to save his life!
WHAT NO LOCTITE ON THE HELICOil
Loctite’ll leak through to the inside of the coiled thread and remain in liquid form until you put the bolt in, at which time the unit locks together and becomes as one!
Project Farm beat you to this, and by an alarming amount of data presented too.
Yeah half of his videos show the most useless scenarios.
Didn't even tap it straight !! Neither one !! Unbelievable
It's called Skill.
Timesert or helicoil to repair stripped thread on a strut mount hole?
Meanwhile just had this happen to me during head install on my aluminum 5.3 head install and got so mad I cried. And he just does it on purpose 🙄
I just did this to my LT4 383 stroker. Intake manifold bolt. 😭
Time Sert all ways 🤟😎
Check out project farms video on these.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 yes and 10 other that say helicoil is much stronger, I've seen engine builders use them in head bolts.👍.
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this was hard to watch
in out in out in like fuc*** just pull out or one less bikes cause babies and stuff
Just say "NO" to Ugga, Dugga's!!!
So much wrong with this video, please don’t use this as a “how too” more of a “how NOT too”!!!
time-serts sucks 😂😮😂😮😂😅