Two things that piece would have ran into the piston not the valve. Also when you reuse a head gasket (which should always be replaced) use copper spray a gasket. It is SUPER STICKY coat it good and let dry 5-10 minutes then put the head back on, it will make it very more likely to not leak. If you do not remove the head on any engine then do this, put the cylinder at TDC (top dead center) then use the threader and make the repair. The next thing you do is use an air compressor and spray the air into the cylinder it will push everything out of it. Just make sure 💯 % the cylinder is at TDC, this will make all valves closed and when you spray the air into the cylinder it will blow any metal shavings out of the cylinder. You can put a piece of vacuum line on the end of the blow nozzle small enough to fit down into the cylinder. Don’t blow at 150PSI you only need 10-15PSI, this will make sure it’s nice and clean and have no metal shavings sitting on the piston or down on the ring.
Good advice thank you for the comment. I’m going to pin your comment so it comes up first 😀. Actually when you look at the picture of the threads being stripped out you can see the valve not the piston. It’s offset on this engine. I wasn’t worried to much about the head gasket on this old of an engine, this snowblower is from the 70’s and those engines were bullet proof.
I've seen many people just buy the tap/rethreader with inserts and not the kit that cost twice as much that has the set tool. Unless you have the set tool, the insert doesn't get installed correctly. I literally just went to autozone and the 14mm kit with tool was $32. The funny thing is, the $16 kit with no tool was in plain sight, and the one with the tool was hiding behind a label bar. I usually install inserts with the engine all assembled. But it is much easier with the head off, but only for the actual insert installing. It's much harder to do the complete job. Pulling the head off isn't an option for most people. I run a vacuum hose and use compressed air in the hole after I'm done. Never had an issue with shavings. I tell everyone to use a long extension with short socket to rethread. The long ext helps keep the tool straight.
Very well said. I know the kit is expensive and I’ve bought them over the years but I always lose the set tool🥴. If you’re ok with it, I’m going to pin this response so it comes up first. Great advice and I thank you for sharing it!
Excellent! It’s not hard to do but cutting those threads can be a bit spooky. The other way is with an air compressor. You can blow out the cylinder but honestly, both ways have a tendency to leave a little residual metal filings. I’m glad it worked for you and you’re welcome
Great instructions, worked great on my corvair aside from one issue. Unfortunately I rushed through the process, and with my limited visibility, didn’t realize I had tapped threads into my piston until it was too late. You win some you lose some I guess. Aside from my stupidity, your instructions worked flawlessly though. Concise and to the point.
@@BrapBrapDorito thank you. Just an fyi, there is a guy here on RUclips named @mattsoffroadrecovery who has tons of Corvair parts. He was just out at a place called Clark’s Corvair Parts in Shelbert Falls Massachusetts. Surely you should be able to find something to help you out. Thanks again
@@pilgrimsgarageYep, Clark’s is definitely the place to go, glad it’s not too far either. Somehow the car still runs, those corvairs are tough SOBs. Thank you for the advice!
Fixing to do this on my Acura TSX after a loose spark plug literally beat the threads out of that particular cylinder portion of the head. Thank you for this!
Be sure that your piston is down at the bottom of the stroke. I’m not sure if Acura has a high compression ratio. Be sure to grease the tap really well. That should help keep the metal filings down to a minimum. Might also help if you can get a shop vac in the hole to pull out the filings. Good luck and thank you for the compliment.
If on the engine, remove the spark plug and look in for the piston. You can inset a long pencil or wooden rod, and turn the engine over until the piston is way back away from the head so the threading die does not contact the piston. Also, lube spark plug threads with anti seize, and be careful each time you install the plug to assure you have it straight. Don't over tighten!
You’re welcome. One thing I’d recommend… a new head for this particular small engine was only $50 and the kit was pretty close to that price. Check what price a new head would be just in case it’s comparable to a repair kit. I will say it’s very easy to install and it’s still working excellent. Thanks for watching the video and I hope it helps you out. Cheers!
I have had good luck with changing the plugs as long as he used either rtv or loctite to seat the helicoil. It never hurts to put a bit of anti seize on the plugs to but I think you’re in luck…Minis are the shit! They’re so easy to work on and they’ll last forever if you properly maintain them. You shouldn’t have to worry about plugs for at least the next 125k miles. You’re golden 😉
@@pilgrimsgarage the spark plug hasn't come out in over 12k miles. And it was installed by a trusted mechanic. I would believe if they didn't use rtv or lock plug would have come out soon after the repair.
How hard did you have to push on the tool. I’m retapping the hole in my car engine but it does not cut. It gets to the big tap part and just spins on the section between the small and large tap portion. I push on it but no luck grabbing
I didn’t have to push on it very much at all but it was a small engine head…an automotive head could be much thicker. I would say to keep good pressure on it to get it to bite.
I’m trying to repair a striped plug hole. I have the repair kit and inserts. My problem is that over time the plug was progressively getting loose and wallered out the hole so badly that no I can’t get enough thread depth for it to hold the insert. I’m open to suggestions
The tap that comes with the kit is predominantly bigger then the insert. It should be able to cut new threads. If it’s to big and the insert won’t thread in, the only option I’d say is to replace the head if it’s a small engine or I think they make a bigger insert and tap. Plugs on old tractors and older flathead engines are really big. That might be an option.
Funny I was looking info and u came with the same exact old breaks and scrapon. The spark plug on mine engine flew through the air now I think it's in space
Thanks for the vid bud. BOTH the plugs on BOTH my snowblowers just stripped out. Waited too long to replace the mfers I guess. Did you need to replace the cylinder head gasket with a new one after you took it off? I'm assuming yes; it's almost a stupid question.
Actually no I didn’t. I put the original back on and believe it or not it’s still good. I will tell you that a new cylinder head is about the same price as a Sav-a-thread kit… well at least for mine. Head gaskets are super cheap too. Thanks for the compliment and I’m glad it helped you out.
Only thing this kit needs is a tool to insert the plug, trying to twist it in on a California trimmer mower with the head still assembled is impossible. I installed it with the spark plug but im not able to remove the spark plug without pulling the insert out with it.
@@inf0x0 when I did it I used the RTV as a thread sealer and I put it on the threads. I used the plug to insert it but I let it sit for a while to seal up and then I backed the plug out. One could say to just leave it in there with the plug…it should be fine.
I tapped it and it was perfect straight and I put it in with lock tie and didn’t go in flush but now I can’t remove the hella coil , do you know how to remove the insert ?
Before you try to remove it, I would put the spark plug into the insert. See if you can tighten up the spark plug with the insert on the plug. It should be fine as long as the threads of the spark plug are all the way in. They do make a removal tool that has reverse threads on it but I don’t think that you’ll need it. Try and put the spark plug in and see if you can tighten it a little bit more and see if it’ll start. You’ll physically be able to feel or see if that insert is not working properly. You’ll feel it blow by the spark plug. I’d be willing to bet that you’re just fine though.
@pilgrimsgarage it's the same threads as my snomobile and my lawnmower so I'm pretty shure its average size but my biggest concern is that it's a cheap aluminum motor
@@theLyzhendricks it should work. If possible I’d remove the head and do it on a workbench. Be sure to use ultra copper rtv with the insert and you should be golden. Good luck
@pilgrimsgarage yea I'm concerned about ripping the base gasket on the head so I dunno if I'm ganna take the head off I'm ganna do the gresse thing u talked abt in the vid and then blow the rest out with compressed air I'm not to worried about the motor I'm just trying a couple of cheap fixes for fun
I don’t think that it would be a big problem. Just back the plug out and if you have to replace it all you’ll have to do is buy the insert. I believe they’re only a dollar or two. Should be able to find it on Amazon. You still have the expensive parts (tap, knurl set). It’ll be easy 😊
Thank you. It is still working good. I literally just broke it out last weekend to check everything on the snowblower. I live in Wisconsin so it won’t be long until the white stuff flies 😉
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Two things that piece would have ran into the piston not the valve. Also when you reuse a head gasket (which should always be replaced) use copper spray a gasket. It is SUPER STICKY coat it good and let dry 5-10 minutes then put the head back on, it will make it very more likely to not leak. If you do not remove the head on any engine then do this, put the cylinder at TDC (top dead center) then use the threader and make the repair. The next thing you do is use an air compressor and spray the air into the cylinder it will push everything out of it. Just make sure 💯 % the cylinder is at TDC, this will make all valves closed and when you spray the air into the cylinder it will blow any metal shavings out of the cylinder. You can put a piece of vacuum line on the end of the blow nozzle small enough to fit down into the cylinder. Don’t blow at 150PSI you only need 10-15PSI, this will make sure it’s nice and clean and have no metal shavings sitting on the piston or down on the ring.
Good advice thank you for the comment. I’m going to pin your comment so it comes up first 😀. Actually when you look at the picture of the threads being stripped out you can see the valve not the piston. It’s offset on this engine.
I wasn’t worried to much about the head gasket on this old of an engine, this snowblower is from the 70’s and those engines were bullet proof.
@@pilgrimsgaragepeople dnt listen.. good review, thanks for the time, info and energy.
I've seen many people just buy the tap/rethreader with inserts and not the kit that cost twice as much that has the set tool. Unless you have the set tool, the insert doesn't get installed correctly.
I literally just went to autozone and the 14mm kit with tool was $32. The funny thing is, the $16 kit with no tool was in plain sight, and the one with the tool was hiding behind a label bar.
I usually install inserts with the engine all assembled. But it is much easier with the head off, but only for the actual insert installing. It's much harder to do the complete job. Pulling the head off isn't an option for most people. I run a vacuum hose and use compressed air in the hole after I'm done. Never had an issue with shavings. I tell everyone to use a long extension with short socket to rethread. The long ext helps keep the tool straight.
Very well said. I know the kit is expensive and I’ve bought them over the years but I always lose the set tool🥴. If you’re ok with it, I’m going to pin this response so it comes up first. Great advice and I thank you for sharing it!
This video is very well laid out, and very informative. I wont have to play any guessing games this time.
I like to keep it short and to the point. Thank you for the compliment! Have a great day
Thanks for the tip about putting grease on the tap. It worked perfectly.
Excellent! It’s not hard to do but cutting those threads can be a bit spooky. The other way is with an air compressor. You can blow out the cylinder but honestly, both ways have a tendency to leave a little residual metal filings. I’m glad it worked for you and you’re welcome
Best video I have seen with all the steps and explanation. I was wandering what the tool with the hammer is for. Now I know. thanks for the effort.
You’re welcome, thank you for the compliment
Great instructions, worked great on my corvair aside from one issue. Unfortunately I rushed through the process, and with my limited visibility, didn’t realize I had tapped threads into my piston until it was too late. You win some you lose some I guess. Aside from my stupidity, your instructions worked flawlessly though. Concise and to the point.
@@BrapBrapDorito thank you. Just an fyi, there is a guy here on RUclips named @mattsoffroadrecovery who has tons of Corvair parts. He was just out at a place called Clark’s Corvair Parts in Shelbert Falls Massachusetts. Surely you should be able to find something to help you out. Thanks again
@@pilgrimsgarageYep, Clark’s is definitely the place to go, glad it’s not too far either. Somehow the car still runs, those corvairs are tough SOBs. Thank you for the advice!
Fixing to do this on my Acura TSX after a loose spark plug literally beat the threads out of that particular cylinder portion of the head. Thank you for this!
Be sure that your piston is down at the bottom of the stroke. I’m not sure if Acura has a high compression ratio. Be sure to grease the tap really well. That should help keep the metal filings down to a minimum. Might also help if you can get a shop vac in the hole to pull out the filings.
Good luck and thank you for the compliment.
If on the engine, remove the spark plug and look in for the piston. You can inset a long pencil or wooden rod, and turn the engine over until the piston is way back away from the head so the threading die does not contact the piston. Also, lube spark plug threads with anti seize, and be careful each time you install the plug to assure you have it straight. Don't over tighten!
Wow, I wanted to take my top to engineering but this is going to help. Thanks
You’re welcome. One thing I’d recommend… a new head for this particular small engine was only $50 and the kit was pretty close to that price. Check what price a new head would be just in case it’s comparable to a repair kit. I will say it’s very easy to install and it’s still working excellent. Thanks for watching the video and I hope it helps you out. Cheers!
Super awesome video, Thank you sooo Much ❗‼
You’re welcome.
I had this done at my mechanic on my 2007 mini Cooper. I am wondering if you can change the spark plugs later down the road?
I have had good luck with changing the plugs as long as he used either rtv or loctite to seat the helicoil. It never hurts to put a bit of anti seize on the plugs to but I think you’re in luck…Minis are the shit! They’re so easy to work on and they’ll last forever if you properly maintain them. You shouldn’t have to worry about plugs for at least the next 125k miles. You’re golden 😉
@@pilgrimsgarage the spark plug hasn't come out in over 12k miles. And it was installed by a trusted mechanic. I would believe if they didn't use rtv or lock plug would have come out soon after the repair.
@@andersanden3221 good deal. That’s a good mechanic… they’re hard to find nowadays.
How hard did you have to push on the tool. I’m retapping the hole in my car engine but it does not cut. It gets to the big tap part and just spins on the section between the small and large tap portion. I push on it but no luck grabbing
I didn’t have to push on it very much at all but it was a small engine head…an automotive head could be much thicker. I would say to keep good pressure on it to get it to bite.
I’m trying to repair a striped plug hole. I have the repair kit and inserts. My problem is that over time the plug was progressively getting loose and wallered out the hole so badly that no I can’t get enough thread depth for it to hold the insert. I’m open to suggestions
The tap that comes with the kit is predominantly bigger then the insert. It should be able to cut new threads. If it’s to big and the insert won’t thread in, the only option I’d say is to replace the head if it’s a small engine or I think they make a bigger insert and tap. Plugs on old tractors and older flathead engines are really big. That might be an option.
What kind of engine are you working on?
Funny I was looking info and u came with the same exact old breaks and scrapon. The spark plug on mine engine flew through the air now I think it's in space
Thanks for the video
Nice!!
Same happened to me, bro. Almost took my thumb with it!
Thanks for the vid bud. BOTH the plugs on BOTH my snowblowers just stripped out. Waited too long to replace the mfers I guess. Did you need to replace the cylinder head gasket with a new one after you took it off? I'm assuming yes; it's almost a stupid question.
Actually no I didn’t. I put the original back on and believe it or not it’s still good. I will tell you that a new cylinder head is about the same price as a Sav-a-thread kit… well at least for mine. Head gaskets are super cheap too. Thanks for the compliment and I’m glad it helped you out.
@@pilgrimsgarage Not true for some of the larger snowblower engins. They want $132 for the cylinder head kit for mine lol!
@@janemorong4970 ugh… mine was like $35.
Yeah, so I'm hoping I can thread these in place lol. I've got the kit on order and spare inserts. I've got 2 machines so that'd be $132 *times two!*
@@janemorong4970 ugh…well, hopefully the kit will work for you. Good luck.
Excellent video thanks
You’re welcome
Only thing this kit needs is a tool to insert the plug, trying to twist it in on a California trimmer mower with the head still assembled is impossible. I installed it with the spark plug but im not able to remove the spark plug without pulling the insert out with it.
@@inf0x0 when I did it I used the RTV as a thread sealer and I put it on the threads. I used the plug to insert it but I let it sit for a while to seal up and then I backed the plug out. One could say to just leave it in there with the plug…it should be fine.
I have a 50cc moped the threads where the spark plug goes is stripped out.The spark plug won't get tight will this fix it
@@robertbell1804 it should fix it fine as long as you follow the instructions.
I tapped it and it was perfect straight and I put it in with lock tie and didn’t go in flush but now I can’t remove the hella coil , do you know how to remove the insert ?
Before you try to remove it, I would put the spark plug into the insert. See if you can tighten up the spark plug with the insert on the plug. It should be fine as long as the threads of the spark plug are all the way in. They do make a removal tool that has reverse threads on it but I don’t think that you’ll need it. Try and put the spark plug in and see if you can tighten it a little bit more and see if it’ll start. You’ll physically be able to feel or see if that insert is not working properly. You’ll feel it blow by the spark plug. I’d be willing to bet that you’re just fine though.
What size is that helicoil?, thank you very much
It’s a standard spark plug size. 7/8-18 I believe.
I'm really hoping this will work for my motorized bicycle
It should. Check your threads against your spark plug first. Some of those smaller engines have tiny spark plugs.
@pilgrimsgarage it's the same threads as my snomobile and my lawnmower so I'm pretty shure its average size but my biggest concern is that it's a cheap aluminum motor
@@theLyzhendricks it should work. If possible I’d remove the head and do it on a workbench. Be sure to use ultra copper rtv with the insert and you should be golden. Good luck
@pilgrimsgarage yea I'm concerned about ripping the base gasket on the head so I dunno if I'm ganna take the head off I'm ganna do the gresse thing u talked abt in the vid and then blow the rest out with compressed air I'm not to worried about the motor I'm just trying a couple of cheap fixes for fun
@@theLyzhendricks it should work. Be sure the piston is all the way up. Good luck and tell me how it worked out. I’d love to know.
which part is the upper part
I’m not sure what you’d mean by upper part.
Which side is towards the spark plague, one side has no thread to the end
Had my neighbor help me do this because he said he’s done it on motorcycles. Didn’t set the nurls and now the sleeve is seized on my plug 🤦🏻♂️
I don’t think that it would be a big problem. Just back the plug out and if you have to replace it all you’ll have to do is buy the insert. I believe they’re only a dollar or two. Should be able to find it on Amazon. You still have the expensive parts (tap, knurl set). It’ll be easy 😊
@@pilgrimsgarage I couldn't find the insert on Amazon but I ordered it at Advance Auto Parts for $4.
Good stuff🎉🎉🎉
Thank you. It is still working good. I literally just broke it out last weekend to check everything on the snowblower. I live in Wisconsin so it won’t be long until the white stuff flies 😉
❤
Got this at advance auto for 25.99
Dammit man!! That’s cheaper than amazon!
Auto Zone has it for 32 dollars
Good deal!!