How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Splutch Cam Kit W10721967
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2017
- How To Replace: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Splutch Cam Kit W10721967 www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
Symptoms: splines are stripped and it's making noise, or having problems with the wash and spin cycles.
Tools: 5/16" nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, ratchet with 13mm socket, flathead screwdriver.
This Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag made Washer Splutch Cam Kit replaces the following older part numbers on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears and Kenmore Washers: W10006352, W10006353, W10006354, W10006356, W10006382, W10315818, W10326374, W10536113, W10721967VP.
Buy the new Washer Splutch Cam Kit W10721967 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
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Great video! Nice and clear, easy to follow. Great service.
You did such a great job! Very easy to follow. Thank you!
Another great video! Thanks guys!
You're welcome! Glad we could help.
Thank you, sir! Respect!
Just finished doing this to my maytag washer ...no more grinding noise!!! Wasnt difficult if you have big space
For people unable to get the nut off the splutch cam: You can grab the cam on the back side with one hand and hold it while you crank on the nut with a socket wrench. 13mm socket The back side of that cam has fins on it that make it easy to grip. Wear a glove maybe, or it'll bite your hand.
If the nut is rusted, put some PB Blaster or other antiseize product on it and wait a bit.
You can also actually tighten the nut a bit to break it free before unscrewing it.
Great video!
Good video! Thank you! Part is still used on today's machines, even on the (Commercial)Maytags! I'd like to know when they started using these plastic gears on the washers. If you know please comment.
Hi, I have a Maytag heavy duty super size capacity 3 speed select 10 cycles Legacy series. Last month it was fixed because it was making alot of noise and noticed water on the floor. Now it does wash and drains but downy in agitator is not drained and it is not spinning. Clothes are super wet when done washing. What could it be. So we can try fixing it? Thanks in advance 🙂
Any idea what to do with a cabrio that makes noise and especially in the larger fill mode.
I made this change and still not agitating during wash Cycles spin out fine but do not agitate.
Is this the shifter or gearbox.
The drive gear going into the Splutch has wear can you change just this gear?
Your videos are great and very helpful, thank you.
You can buy all the parts down there in kits at AMAZON. Yes, it could be the shifter which often fails. NEVER do this job without replacing ALL the plastic parts
Is there a video on how to replace the shifter that you guys know of?
Will this correct an issue with the machine not agitating? I don’t want to buy unnecessary parts I wouldn’t need to replace. I chatted with one of ur tech’s and they recommended this. Any more info would be great!!
It definitely could! If one of our agents recommended this part, we back their technical expertise, and if it doesn't correct the problem, you can return it.
Will this fit a kenmore model 110 21302010 ?
how are you getting splutch nut off so easily? I cannot get it off. Both the nut and the bolt it's screwed onto spin together. I cant figure where or what to hold onto to keep the bolt from spinning so I can unscrew the nut ....??? holding the pulley or belt does not help. the nut/bolt still spin while holding those still.
I'm a servicer. Had to junk last three because the nut was held on with locktite and impossible to remove even with two other hands trying to hold pulley. Any suggestions how to hold the pulley while removing the nut? My water pump pliers isn't big enough. FUNNY: The most common problem we had with early models was the nut loosening causing misalignment of belt between that splutch and the motor pulley.
Use an impact that will loosen the mother
Do you recommend lubrication on the gears. I've seen videos where some people use a high pressure grease or silicone grease
You don't have to use any lubrication.
My whirlpool washer wtw5000dw1 was a little different. On my you rotated the splutch housing to unlock it. Was a little pain in the rear. After I replaced it. I still get a clack clacl clack sound when the washer is slowing down on it final spin. Any thoughts?
The drive belt on my washer keeps falling off. Could this be the solution?
It may be coming off because the nut loosened causing misalignment if drive pulley to motor pulley. Ribs in belt or motor pulley could be worn too.
I replaced the clutch but when I ran the machine on the normal setting it stopped after rinsed and drained. I was able to complete the cycle by manually turning the knob to drain &spin. Do I need to recalibrate the machine to get to run through the entire cycles
What is the model of your washer and we can look into this for you.
Having a similar issue Mvwc565fw2
Doesn’t spin out after normal wash. Spins fine on drain and spin setting
I found my problem, the NEW gear box inside splined shaft shoulder was 1/32 to short and allowed the outside teeth on the pulley to rub the inner teeth which sounded like it was tearing the teeth off. Put it back on the old gear box and it cleared fine. Measured the NEW gear case small shaft shoulder (inside the spring/splines)and it was 1/32 shorter than the old one. This allowed the flywheel close enough to rub the teeth on the inside. I drilled the inside hole bigger on a stainless washer and put it on the small splined shaft which located the flywheel 1/32 out from the cam unit and so far it's working. My first thought was that I lost the washer inside the unit but after a check on the old gearbox I found no washer and it cleared. It's something to watch for if you buy a new gear case.
Thanks for letting us know!
Thanks. This helped me find my problem after changing the gearcase.
@@bobtopper7867 YW. Mine is still working,,,,which I had my doubts.
Need your help! My drive wheel, the one on the tub won't come off. I am trying to replace the same things but I can't get the nut off. When I tyrn it, the bolt turns also and makes a weird clicking sound. Any thoughts?
i am having the same issue, the nut turns with the wheel & i can't seem to loosen it up.
@@michellelea5351 ever fixed it? Having same prob
@@ricardodiaz-ju5xq I had the same problem with the stuck nut, I found a solution, what u need to do is find a way to hold the shaft still and use a wrench to get the nut off. To do that since I was replacing the splutch kit anyways was use my milwaukee grinder and a cut off wheel to wear down the nut a bit close to the threads without touching the threads and leaving flat sides for my wrench to grip because of the belt pulley being in the way I couldn't just simply cut the nut off with the grinder. After I got the nut grinded almost down to the threads to weaken the nut I cut a piece of the plastic belt pulley off and used long reach side cutters to break apart the plastic pulley by gripping and twisting, once I got the pieces off I was able to slip off the splutch kit over the pulley and then used pliers on what was left of the pulley as I was able to see the shaft now I gripped it and used a wrench to take it off then was able to remove everything and install the new kit and belt works mint now I looked at the teeth on the inside of the belt pulley that rides the shaft and it was rough which explains the grinding noise as it was skipping teeth. The shaft from the transmission is near mint so the new kit gripped it well. Hope that helps although it was a bit of work.
I am a truck and coach mechanic so I had more tools accessible but the idea is to break off the pulley so u can access the shaft. Hold it and get the nut off. Then install the new kit as per the video if you were able to get the nut off in the first place.
Good video. But you mentioned Belt Chill. What is the actual name or part number of this Belt Chill?
Belt shield
Realistic hands on videos
If there is anything we can help you with please let us know. Good luck with your repair and let us know how it goes!
This machine is will eat a lot of money for the spare parts, it's better to be back in old manual timer switch
I replaced mine, but when the washer spins it turns the housing and the housing falls out letting the gears disengage.
We'd be happy to help you out with that! We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Hi I replaced but the nut keeps coming loose. What's causing that?
put some lock-tite/ nail polish on it, it'll hold better
Ok I am not Shure if it's the splutch or the shift actuator?!?!
When trying to agitate the plate inside the drum will turn one way but not return back. Sounds like stripped plastic gears. But if it's not engaging all the way then it could be the actuator.
So I guess I am going to pull it apart and look for chewed teeth. If not chewed then I would be the shift actuator right?
Update
No chewed gears. Was able to look through the clear plastic on the shift actuator and notices a spring that looked off. So popped the tabs open and put it in the grooves hope this fixes it..... I will find out in about 5 min
Well still no good. I have washer tilted up at a 30° angle to let the wash cycle finish then lower it down to let the rest of the tiny load finish.. it agitates fine tilted back. It's just when clothes are on top of the plate is when it only worked one direction. When it returns is when it makes the noise.
Could there be another part that is causing it to slip?
I had the plate off first to remove changes that was under the plate in the drain ports. A nickel was ground down pretty good.
Agitator plate may be ruined by that nickle. When doing the job in this video, replace ALL the plastic parts below and THE SPRING. It all comes in a kit now.
I have the same washer mine is making a noise while in spin mode,could it be this part anyone help,it drains all water while on spin just makes grinding noise
We'd be happy to look into that for you, but we'll need your model number. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
AppliancePartsPros ...thx is more like a groaning sound only on spin cycle m# is 110.21302012
It does sound like the splutch. The part in the video is the one you'll need for your model: www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cam-w10721967-ap5951296.html
Yes
HOW TO GET THE NUT OFF: Take a lighter hold it to the bolt and the screw for abput one minute 30 sec have a second person hold the top and crank worked for me
Thank you for the suggestion!
This new whirlpool whashing machines are junk. They last 2 years. Kenmore the same. Garbage...
Does this cause loud grinding noise on wash cycle only? I’ve noticed the noise occasionally goes away
What brand will last?
We don't really have any information on that, but it's never a bad idea to check reviews on an appliance before you purchase it.
@@appliancepartspros Speed Queen built in Ripon Wisconsin by ALLIANCE which builds vertically ALL BRANDS of commercial washers and dryers found in hotels and laundromats.
All four of those collar tabs were not locked in!
Well, that didn't fix the problem so what will we replace next?
A view of defective areas on the removed parts is requested or is arbitrarily replacing parts SOP.
Excellent video otherwise. Thanks POW
UPDATE:::
Located the LED trouble shooting procedure in an envelope securely taped to inside top front of cabinet.
Removed top and large tub ring to access the envelope.
Set machine (LED) to automatic and each shortened function is tested in sequence.
Door lock, water on-off, agitate, rinse, spin, drain, unlock etc. will activate quickly and automatically with shortened sequences.
When there's a problem with a function the machine appears to rest and wait for several moments before moving on to the next function.
Set (LED) machine test to the "manual mode" allows you to test each function individual and as desired.
The LED lights indicate the mode or function that's being run/tested.
The manual describes how to interpret fault/error codes.
The LED advantage is that the machine can be cycled through each function rapidly.
Each specific function can be repeated alone and individually.
Example: Test the drain pump or the fill valves.. no sound, doesn't appear to operate, quickly test that specific function again and again.
The Splutch gears (above video) are quite heavy and IMO.
If those heavy gears are damaged there's likely more serious mechanical problems elsewhere.
Although grinding, (occasional short horrific bursts) indicated possibly my gears would be damaged or faulty.
My original gears appeared good as new.
No apparent wear or damage of any kind. No plastic residue from grinding wear.
Everything was extremely clean. Since I had the replacement parts I installed them anyway.
The old parts appear good as new..
Attention: The 13mm pulley nut has lock-tite applied.
Difficult to hold the pulley and loosen the nut, unlike the video..
Working alone, I considered defeat.
Applied a long handle 13mm wrench and slammed it hard with my palm to loosen.
I didn't hold the pulley.
Slam on that wrench until the nut begins to slowly twist in the tough lok-tite.
All else went smooth as in the video.
I didn't need a Splutch Kit nor this experience.
Obtain and use the LED testing procedure.
Separate the two, auto and manual testing procedure steps, will help make sense of it, hopefully.
Jump to page 12 step 7 or go back to page 9 step 5a adds confusion.
Follow the steps, they didn't overlook much. Think think think about what the machine is doing during the procedure.
Think "What function will it perform next". Think
BTW no need to disconnect the machine or turn it over etc. to run the LED and most voltage tests.
Simply pull the machine away from the wall a foot or less to remove 1/4 screw(s) at the top rear as demonstrated in many videos.
Several functions requiring the tub to spin or agitate do not perform on my machine.
The voltage tests are easily followed.
Testing main board voltages tonight.
Watch for an update.
Faulty shift control actuator. The shifter was stuck in the middle of a function so the splutch gears could not fully engage.
I quick loud grind indicated the gears must be stripped. The gears were as good as new, actually better.
Since I had already procured the Splutch I replaced it following the above video procedure.
Easily removed Shift actuator to see that it was hung up at mid-cycle.
Replacement 50-60$. Real nice, Real easy.
The Shifter malfunction caused the Splutch gears to only partially engage.
Quick, frightening, sudden loud grind (zing) occurred but no damage to the Splutch at all.
All was well for two loads.
As the washer was in the agitate cycle a squeak developed. Back and forth - back and forth.
Empty machine, slightly turn the basket by hand back and forth......squeak squeak squeak
The squeak came the new Splutch. Plastic pieces rubbing together cause the annoying squeak.
Replaced the new Splutch with the old Splutch. All seems well.
My basket has a very severe balance problem.
All is level but the machine bounces during spin as if it were a car with a flat tire.
Thank me later
POW
We offer free technical advice and diagnosis, so if you ever need help diagnosing an appliance problem, reach out to us. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Thanks for the long reply got the same thing going on with mine sounds like the belt squealing everything looks good to still researching
@@johnmitchell2741 Don't remember my problem details. New splitch did have a horrible squeek. Good luck. My machine is still running but sounds like a train wreck in progress. We just live with the noise.
@@Dash-Rip-Rock Hey Ben just thought I'd let you know I figured out what the squeaking noise was at least on mine I'm writing you back so everyone will have some idea what to ck. I'm sorry I didn't take pics as old as this post was I didn't think it mattered anymore but obviously they are still making this junk. anyway I removed the belt and cleaned it cause that's what the noise sounded like a belt I checked the splutch gears they were good so I put it back together and ran it it was still making the same noise so I had the back off the washer while It was running and noticed the gears on the splutch to the main pulley gear that the belt rides on were disengaged as they should be in the agitation mode but they were still partially hitting each other so what I did was I took the large plastic pulley that the belt rides back off and put a thin plastic washer up on the shaft where the pulley goes then put the pulley back on doing that stopped the gears from hitting each other no more noise and when the actuator engages them they mesh just fine .I hope this helps somebody
WTF happened to Whirlpool, this design is absolute garbage.
Can't agree with you more - and it's on 65% of washers in US since people gave-up on front loaders. They CERTAINLY could have created a low water version of the direct drive washer. It's a CABRIO without the shower system.
I'm totally shocked that he didn't say anything about the resetting or putting it in test mode????