What Wire Connectors Should You Use | Romex Into Metal Box
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2024
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Best NM Cable Connector -
There are lots of options when it comes to wire connectors or clamps to hold NM cable (Romex) into a metal junction box. I will walk you through 8 options and provide some pros and cons. Additionally, I will share a poll from the audience in addition to my top pick to help you decide on what is best for your DIY electrical projects
Chapters
0:00 Metal Junction Box Basics
1:29 Option 1 (Don't Do This!)
2:26 Option 2 Plastic Bushings amzn.to/49T0ijP
3:07 Option 3 Plastic NM Cable Connector
4:19 Option 4 Plastic NM Cable Connector (Insider) amzn.to/4ajsWe5
5:24 Option 5 Plastic Connector (Grey) amzn.to/4cjrv0J
6:35 Option 6 Metal Split Connector
7:30 Option 7 Metal Connector (Snap Lock) amzn.to/3Tniqvp
7:51 Option 8 Metal Connector (Lock Nut) amzn.to/48VZ9qC
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Commercial/ Industrial Electrician here. Metal connector with the lock nut is my go to. The metal snap-ins are handy if youre adding a circuit to a mess of a J box or panel.
Since I moved to the US from Canada 12 years ago, this is the first reference I heard to "Robertson".
Fellow Canuck in Yankeeland. Maybe the best Canadian invention (after Zamboni of course) is the Robertson. Torx is just an improvement on that. Robertson is the man
@@timrxn5414I'm not sure that Torx is an improvement.
@@rickgilbrt an entirely reasonable point of view. I like Robinson heads but everything is torx if you’re picking up a box of deck screws. Cheers
I always use the metal locknut one. You can get the body clamped to the cable before fishing it to box if you don’t have good access. It’s a bit fiddly but doable. I gave up on the plastic ones quickly -really hard if you need to make changes later and also tough to slide on resulting in bruised knuckles when you slip
Homeowner here. I recently used Arlington NM94X and NM95X which are plastic and attach from either side of the box (outsider or insider) and seem sturdier than your #4 insider. The insider feature was useful for installing in my electrical panel that is drywalled into a stud bay. Also, since the knockouts in the panel knock *into* the panel, I had to use the Pro-Tip of screwing a self-tapping metal screw into the knockout and then prying it inwards.
Technically, the "pass through" bushing is not intended for junction boxes, even though it would seem so. They are designed for metal stud penetrations.
That was a good one. Sometimes I think that I know how things work but it's great to have confirmation, and correction.
Great video! You would be surprised at how many DIY'ers don't know about these different types. Thanks for this!
You almost said this, but it’s always good to check with your inspector on what they allow. There may be a few cases where a basic bushing is allowed, if conditions don’t allow better. Also, it’s good to read the packaging for restrictions, such as number and size of cable.
Also, it’s another thing entirely if you’re working in wet locations.
Electrician here. "plastic bushing" is actually a grommet and is used in different application. It's not used for romex. it's used for example with wires entering fixtures or exit signs that are mounted on the wall directly over the box. So you have protection of wires entering those devices,
The non strain plastic one is fine, you just need to use nm staples within 6 inches of the box.
This was a handy video not just for metal junction boxes but for fluorescent light fixtures. Thanks.
I use the metal connector with lock nut in commercial. It usually matches any previous installations. I use the push-in plastic connectors in home installations.
The plastic one that fit through from the inside look great for retrofitting where someone has used nothing. Drywall or other closing blocks from outside, but if such a scenario is found the wiring could be disconnected temporarily inside the box and the bushing installed from inside the box.
Funny that US boxes don't seem to come with the screw to ground the box.
In Canada, you buy a metal box, it comes with the screw to connect the ground wire to the box.
Seem to miss an other kind - similar to #6 - but 1-side only slips. Much better and can be put in from the inside of the box.
Best DIY teacher I know of, well done!
Thanks for the support 👍
Agreed
Finally! I was searching for this topic a couple of months ago. Couldn’t find an answer. Thank you for pointing
Good information as always. Thank you for sharing
A very informative video!
My go to connector is "number eight" on metal boxes, as well.
Well done, Sir!
What a clean and truly helpful video, thank you
THANKS SCOTT , FOR THE VIDEO EDUCATION 🧐💚💚💚
As someone that does 100s of outlets and switches weekly we only use the halex connectors that most people voted for. I have a helper prep boxes the same way with thoes clamp and they don't fail.
Sheathed Cable Connector 1 Screw - 3/8-in is the best for me, the screw locks in the wire so it doesn’t move. You can attach the cable to the connector and fish it up if space allows then lock it in from the inside of the box.
Outstanding. Great advice homes.
My favorite is #8. Although I've used #3 a few times when a box was mounted directly to a board spanning two ceiling joists and the wire passes through a hole in the spanner board and into the box via method #1.
I've also used method #3 with a pancake box when replacing fixtures where there wasn't a junction box (this house is 100 years old so some fixtures just have wires coming out of the wall or ceiling and the fixture was wood screwed into place and the canopy of the fixture is the junction box)
Thanks for this. I actually did one wrong and sliced the romax right down to the bar wire. Not good when the power came back on.
I used to use the standard metal saddle connector with the two screws and lock nut for years because that was the most commonly available, and the plastic style with that weird crimping block was never great. But lately I've really been liking the Arlington NM94 or Halex 27500 for wire-to-box installations. I haven't used any product for wire-from-box yet, but I should think I could just pop those same connectors into the inside of the knockout.
If I'm using plastic, I use those gray ratcheting ones. They work pretty well and can be removed without wrecking anything but are kind of a pain. Otherwise I use #8, most secure and easiest to change if needed.
I use #8 because that is the old standard and is bomb proof, and I have never seen the others because I don't do much electrical at this point. Ones that I would NOT use are #1, #2, and #7 for the reasons you mentioned.
Number 5 is great for recessed lights, you can make up your splices at chest level, then snap them into the can, then install the can. It saves your arms when doing lots of lights.
Glad an electrician explained this
So simple, yet so useful! Probably one of the items on your checklist when buying a house but how easy is it to have these inspected?
I am a retired master electrician . You did an excellent job on this video. On the big jobs we used the screw type with lock nut because they are good and the most economical. It's all boils down to price.
Grew up as a homeowner using #8. So that is what I will stick with.
Stick with a winner 👍
With #8 make sure you center the Romex flat in the connector. It is easy to pinch the conductor through the outer jacket when you tighten the clamp causing a short. Ask me how I know!
@@thomasdragosr.841 oh yes, fast lesson.
Would be nice to see a video on MC cable connectors
Question: old house had a clip around the bottom edge, bringing the old grounds and “clipping” to the box. I changed the light switch, is the light switch ground, the only ground needed? Pigtailing all the grounds to the green screw on the new light switch 🤔 thanks! Awesome channel. Upgrading wafer LED lights
My Favorite is whatever I can easily find in the stores. DIYer so I am not using enough to develop an attachment to them and consequently order in bulk.
If you have full access from the front, #7 can also be snapped in from the inside if needed.
I really like that plastic one that gets pushed in from the inside of the box. Doing old work that would be awesome to have. I have been trying to find Arlington 94X connectors. They are a combination plastic fitting that can be installed either inside or outside the box. Very hard to find but it solves a lot of problems for new and old construction.
All I have ever used is the metal Connector. The only thing I have hatted about the Metal connectors is some times they are junk and you really have to inspect them before use because the tap that hold the Romex in can be sharp I have had them cut in to the wire. I have only had one short out on me but it was enough to make sure that I inspect every single one when I buy them and use them, Because I do not want to burn down my house LOL or some one else.
# 6 can be inserted from inside of a fuse box, without running wire through it. Separate it, install each side and insert screws. Great to have when finding romax not having one in fuse box.
No. 8. I did not know about the wrench, though.
Yep I have the three wrench kit
I’ve been watching your videos for quite awhile and enjoy them immensely. The one video you had on replacing just the motor assembly on your belt drive garage opener. I’m having trouble finding just the motor assembly like you had shown. My opener is a 15 or more Craftsman model. How do I keep the belt and rail assembly and upgrade the motor assembly.
Vince
15 years
Missing a popular plastic connector called morris or NMSC connectos are used a alot in the electrical industry... Very easy saving time..
#8
Another great video Scott. I just put a 20 amp outlet in my grg and your videos helped me do it, thank you! Concerning these connectors, I like the threaded down metal version. However, I used EMT conduit to come out of the ceiling, across to the wall and down to the outlet box you are showing in this video, all external to the drywall. I used an offset connector to meet the knockout with the conduit coming down the wall. Question is: Do I still need strain relief inside the box since the Romex is loose where it enters from the connector? I’m wondering if there is some type that can thread onto the available thread of the connector after the lock ring is secured?
I don't think you're supposed to use Romex in EMC. Against most codes.
the insider is the only plastic one (of the ones shown) I would use. the various brands of RC-50 is the best nonmetallic one. I've even seen one manufacturar make one that can insert from the inside or outside.
Not sure why the RC50's haven't caught on in my area. I like the design and the split housing is handy for retrofitting. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairsit's a good question. they've been the go-to for nearly 30 years, here. at least on the professional side. and yeah, I don't know how many I've used the open side to fit over a wire run through a hole without any protection.
I think that it would be beneficial if the plastic clamps would be of different colors to eliminate placement errors. 🤔
@4:48 I am confused. You said what if there is drywall and we can't access that knockout ? If the box was already there, and that hole isn't used, then wouldn't the knockout tab still be in place ? And if in place, would one have to not access it by the side in the drywall, since they have to be knocked inward from the outside ? I was not aware of # 7 so I am not sure until I can experience it. As for my use, and what I have stock piled around here is # 8
There must be a lot of something I am missing, because I never saw a poll. But anyway, Thank you for posting. I do enjoy your company. Joel Walsman is awesome too.
There are times and angles you can get a wire and knockout there
Just to reiterate someone else’s comment, if the panel box is set in a wall you can drill a self tapping screw into the knockout, then pull the knockout into the box using the screw as leverage.
Halex non-metallic for me. Simple, easy, cheap, effective, quick. DIYer.
It's actually a 3/8in knockout, isn't it? Just that a 3/8in knockout has a diameter of approximately 1/2in. They all seem to be based on iron pipe size (IPS).
Are any of these push in connectors designed to be easily removed if the box is being turned down? Like if you pinch at a certain point it will squeeze out?
The only one easy to remove is #8, and then only if you have access to the outside of the box. The clip-in ones can usually be removed by pressing the clips, but it’s not easy and sometimes very awkward.
I don't like the plastic ones because once you push the wire in it's difficult to pull it out. I'll only use them if I have to. I prefer the last one you showed the screw in kind.
You are not supposed to pull the wire out, thats the idea it supposed to lock the wire in place
@@willschultz5452 I know but I'm still new at this and sometimes I make mistakes and I want to back it out a bit. with the other ones I can simply unscrew it and move it to where I want it.
lock nut is the best
Agreed 👍
Use the snap in plastic ones!!!! So much easier and non conductive also!!!!
I’m 69, always number 8, old dog, no new tricks.
Cost and convenience are NOT considerations. Choice of connectors is to be made by following the acceptable combinations as listed in the UL white book. If I inspected an installation and found insert bushings used to enter romex into a box, you would be redoing every j box on the job and requesting a reinspection before any walls or ceilings get closed up. This will cause unnecessary delays and possible backcharges for delays. The simple answer it to educate yourself and get it right the first time.
“Numbrr 3!!! Numbr 3!!!” - shrek! Haha
You’re confusing the term “strain relief” with “cable clamp.”
There's no mention of the requirement to have a staple on the romex within a few inches of the box. This renders the endless discussion of "strain relief" irrelevant, and gíven the circumstances is of very low importance anyway. Strain relief is relevant for extension cords but this?
You need both a clamp at the box and for new work a staple within 12 to 6 inches.
@@nyetloki Yes, but the guiding principle is restraint (from flex), not strain relief, I think.
Prefer the metal with lock nut. Dont like the plastic connectors.
Trade size for a 1/2” connector is 7/8” not 3/8” and I’ve been doing electric for 30 years and all of these connectors will work depending upon application I can tell you that we like the snap in connectors because of speed but most times cost drives everything so you will get the squeeze connector with the lock rings, but don’t confuse the MC style connectors for romex connectors they are different the first one you showed was a bushing so it shouldn’t be on the list as a connector, and don’t make the rookie mistake of Overtightening your squeeze connection because that can damage the wires so if you’re new to doing this don’t tighten the connector with your drill or impact. The part in the beginning of what I said so you know electrical conduit and connections are measured with OD not ID plumbing pipe is measured with ID.
2 screw connectors are a great way to identify that electrical work was done by a handyman, and needs to be checked thoroughly.
I am not intending to be pedantic, but you might consider changing the name of the video. Those are not wires, they are cables, and those are not connectors, they are cable clamps, bushings or strain reliefs. I almost did not watch it because I thought it was another wire-nut vs. Wago video. Regardless, I enjoyed the video, thanks.
Romex connector is the metal name for the first two metal ones. Yes NM is a cable who cares
Who said NM was not a cable. Maybe read the sentence before commenting?
@@chrishall2594
No one knows anything on here
Those plastic ones are cheap and cheesy. They'll probably pass inspection but they show that you don't really care. Kind of like backstabbing an outlet.
#8