Can 15 Amp Outlets Be Used On A 20 Amp Circuit Breaker
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2022
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We will cover a few different items associated with this topic. First we will discuss code, then move on to safety/fire hazard, and finish up on what appliances actually need more than 15 Amps. I will also cover my recommendation for increasing your knowledge of the national electrical code as a DIYer and what type of outlet you should be using on all your future electrical projects.
My Favorite 15 AMP Commercial Grade Outlet
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I agree with what you said. I only use commercial grade receptacles, mostly for the backwiring capability, but they also tend to have a larger plug cycle life.
Perfect timing. Its has been hard finding a video that references this info about outlets. Thanks bro!!
I love your outlet videos. They helped me pick out the best (at least at the time) USB-C outlets that I still use in my living room and bedroom for my devices.
Thanks and I appreciate the support 👊
Which did you pick?
the simple answer is that a 15 amp device with the proper plug type installed can't draw enough amps to overload the circuit. Remember the breaker is there to protect the wiring within the building not the device plugged into the outlet.
That's right
I thought he was going to warn about installations down the line, using 20 A outlets feeding from the 15 A outlet, but that wasn't mentioned.
That like saying my ten amp led light can’t be plugged into a twenty amp breaker circuit
Technically you should not feed a 15 amp recptacle with a 20a breaker. Although his point is well taken, a 15a receptacle, cord and device could, in the event of a short circuit, pull more current thru those devices than they are designed to handle. This could result in a greater chance of deadly shock or fire. Best to keep apples with apples so as not confuse or endangef someone else who may come in behind you.
@@slipstreamvids7422 that's really not correct; most if not all 15 amp outlets are designed and tested to handle 20 amps of pass thru current. It's the contacts that are only designed for the 15 amps. it's a common practice ( in fact code) to wire two 20 amp circuits for kitchen outlets and install 15 amp outlets on those runs. Code allows this so that the circuit can allow many 15 amp devices plugged into each of those outlets to be drawing power from that 20 amp breaker. The 20 amp breaker combined with the proper wire size will take care of any overcurrent condition that might take place at the outlets.
Perfect timing! A house we’re looking to buy has this exact scenario. Thanks for the info!
At 1:54 a few lines in the book above your finger it says "A duplex receptacle (with a space for two plugs) counts as two receptacles". This is an important detail for clarity that some viewers may not realize.
So you can have only one duplex 15 Amp outlet on a 20 Amp breaker as that counts as two receptacles.
@@leeoldershaw956
If you are running 15 amps continuously on a 20 amp wire the 20 amp wire will not get as warm because you are not tasking it to its limit. Safer that way.
The engine on regular cars and trucks can produce more horsepower than they do. They are made that way because they will last much longer if you do not task them to their limit. Race cars do and their engines are usually rebuilt after every long race or every time they run more than a certain amount of miles because of the stress that running to their limit causes on the engine.
Great teacher! Thanks for producing this valuable information!
You bet!
I love your videos. I am now a new subscriber. I just purchased an older home that needs several upgrades. I ran across you videos that are easy to follow and very understandable. Thanks. I will hit the notified bell to see more of your videos. Again, Thanks.
When looking at the 15 vs 20 amp internals at 5:27 you can see that the hot side on the 20 amp is the same as both the hot and neutral on the 15 amp. The part that was removed from the previous model 15 amp would really only come into play when the connection is a horizonal prong. Since this isn't possible with a 15 amp receptacle, the part was probably only there so that both could be manufactured on the same line.
Same molds, different materials? Makes sense.
🇨🇦 Electrician weighing in: I’ve always used the commercial spec grade outlets in kitchen areas, same with back when we used to do split receptacles. Lower resistance connection points which results in less heat especially for the heavy counter top loads running at or near 1500W. Well worth the extra $ in terms of user experience, safety and device longevity.
We just switched up to 20 amp outlets every single time. We don’t build track or spec-trac homes, so it’s easier to explain a several hundred dollar upgrade to a buyer.
@@thehimself4056 Multiple 20A outlets (NEMA 5-20s) on a circuit is NOT a good call. The few exceptions I can think of are very specific use cases like a workshop where you need devices to be mobile and then only when folks are informed to never have more than 1 20A device in operation on any outlet on that circuit. I can't tell if you mean you use NEMA 5-20s (the 20A receptacle) instead of NEMA 5-15s (the 15A receptacle) (BAD CALL) or if you mean you swap to commercial grade NEMA 5-15 outlets instead of residential every time (GOOD CALL).
@@stevefifield1207
Yes. The latter of the two. No way I would put the real 20A outlets throughout. Lol. For reasons you know. But I have found it to eliminate the pesky house calls for broken plastic cheapo .99 cent ones.
I'd go one step better and install unbreakable face 15A commercial grade receptacles for a kitchen counter, (except for the GFI, which I'd try to install away from the counter.) You never know how frequently portable loads like coffemakers and tabletop cookers will be removed and be reconnected. The physical stress to the bodies from cord-yankers is at least as much as to the contacts.
This guy is a jack of all trades and master of none.
Always good content, thank you for your efforts.
Thanks for the great videos! Very informative! I'm no professional by any means. However I have always done all home and appliance repairs myself. Videos like yours have been very helpful. I appreciate the time you take to produce these videos! Thanks again!
Thanks Mark and I appreciate your support 👍
Hire a professional
@@thomasj2972 why?
@@markevans4645 the reason you hire a professional is because in some states if someone dies due to your electrical negligence you would be charged with involuntary manslaughter.
@@davealexander7930 you have a point...but..are you saying professionals don't make mistakes? Because I know for a fact they do...that's why I repair my own no matter what it is I can fix it and I'm sure as hell not gonna sue myself! Lol
Good video, I liked the outlet comparison. I have rewired quite a bit of our house, and have dropped more than a few 12/2 20 amp circuits, and have used the better quality Leviton 15 amp outlets, around $3 ea. I really do not operate anything in the house that would require commercial grade 20 amp outlets. Out in the garage, now that is a different story, commercial grade outlets there, on their own sub panel that I also installed.
Garage requires all receptacles GFCI protected
@@firebird77clonefirebird89 I have lost one to many freezer loads of food to those things, you can have them. I have lived 58 years without them and am still here. My grandparents went even longer.
Good info, and you reminded me that I need to buy an updated Black & Decker guide.
to make things perfectly clear, receptalces have two ratings: they have a device rating and they have a feed-through rating. nearly all receptacles with a 15 amp device rating have a 20 amp feed through rating. the ones that don't are the ones that don't have screw terminals. those shouldn't be used on a 20 amp circuit, and more conscientious electricians believe they shouldn't be used at all.
I agree that they shouldn't exist at all.. My mobile home had those and they were awful. Several were breaking apart physically at 22 years of age. God knows how long they were broken for. I replaced them all with spec grade parts and used pigtails instead of using the receptacle as a junction point. As a result, the lights don't go dim when using a vacuum cleaner now, when it did before. Big improvement. Those cheap parts were awful. My question is for what? To save 30 or 40 dollars on the cost of building an entire home? Even if it were a couple hundred, I feel it's not worth sacrificing the quality in my opinion.
If a vacuum cleaner causes lights to dim, you have a crummy wiring job. Glad you could fix that.
@@mikeholmstrom1899 yeah! It was really bad. That's the way mobile homes are built. As cheaply and quickly as possible, with little concern for quality.
@@Krankie_V I'll third that. Never ever use backstab outlets. I hate the sound of arcing inside my walls.
@@Krankie_V If it was made by Fleetwood, my brother would call it "Fleetshit". Close the door and the whole wall moves. I would guess the high line ones didn't have that issue.
Additional information: As stated, you can put 15A outlets on a 20A circuit provided there's more than one outlet on that circuit. The code also specifically states that the double outlets, such as the ones he was taking apart, count as 2, so they count as more than one outlet. The outlets that count as only 1 outlet are the round ones with only a single set of holes in them and no other outlets on the circuit. This is usually only done on a dedicated outlet for a high amperage device, such as a window air conditioner or a large air compressor.
Normally one circuit line goes to 2-3 outlet in a room, not including the AC outlet.
@@jinbiaoma4808 ruclips.net/video/wLSe4LzK9b4/видео.html 15a outlet on 20a circuit will it be ok heres the answer in attached video
Agreed. Also note that most kitchens and baths require 20A circuits, yet use 15A receptacles. The idea is to limit what any one device may draw (15A, ~1800W), yet permit the circuit to handle 20A (~2400W)... mainly in case two devices are running at the same time on that same circuit and realizing those single devices would rarely, if ever, draw a full load of 15A each. 20A is typically plenty to handle a couple lower draw devices.
wm
thanks for that explanation ..."the outlet that only count"......
JUST STOP BACK STABBING THE OUTLETS!
Very interesting. Now I can tell the difference between a 20A receptacle and a 15A. Thanks.
Love your videos...
I do applications for an x-ray company and our products are 20amp plugs... Even the lower energy systems (2.4kW). But we almost always have to use that little converter for small clinics and stuff. I have 3 in my bag.
Thanks for the feedback and support!
Are you saying that you use adapters to run your devices that can draw 20 amps (they have 20 amp plugs) on circuits designed to only provide 15 amps (14g wire and a 15a breaker)? That seems like a bad idea.
@@learnMax no, the system can and does run in 15 amps, but the factory saves money by using the same 20 amp plug on every model.
But even for the bigger unit, it comes in 2 pieces, running a monitor cart only requires 15amps but if the other part is connected, then the 20amp is necessary.
@@TheOldBlackCrow I wonder if they factored in that you'd have to put in an adapter when they "saved money" by using the wrong plug on the 15 amp models.
@@learnMax that's a reasonable point but they are actually trying to keep with code compliance in the States.... So I guess it's not just about saving money. The vast majority of small clinics that buy the system in the US are too cheap to hire an electrician to put in a proper outlet, let alone the correct amperage at the breaker box. Since electrical code for medical facilities (for *most* local governments) do specify that there should be at least one 20amp outlet /breaker in each room, it's on the facility to upgrade their rooms and not for the company to comply with the facilities preference.
One thing you failed to mention is that all of the commercial grade outlets you featured have a bonding jumper that holds the bottom screw in place. This is very handy if you use or encounter metal boxes because you can eliminate the need for a separate ground wire to bond the outlet with the box.
Both screws on the cheap outlets are held in place with a piece of cardboard and should only be used on plastic boxes where it doesn't matter.
I wondered what that was for, the bonding jumper. I thought we could just rely on the screw tightly holding the outlet onto the box, for the ground.
I would politely disagree. I am not an certified electrician but have worked with electricity for many years. On an outlet that I didn’t install in my house someone didn’t use a ground wire on the outlet and relied on the mounting screw for ground and was not fully tightened. For some reason the outlet shorted and tried to use the screw for ground. With that screw being so small and not a good connection it caused resistance which caused heat. As we all know with electricity once a connection gets hot the resistance goes up which causes the connection to get hotter still, it’s a self feeding cycle. The result was the vinyl face plate catching fire. Thankfully it was on drywall and not wood paneling. If the socket would have been grounded with a wire it probably would have tripped the circuit breaker. After that I always bond any sockets or switches to the ground wire and the box if it’s metal. Just my experience with it. 😮😮
Commercial Sparky, here, and we never rely on that bonding jumper. It's Pigtails all the way, Baby.
We also don't use those "Stab-Lok" connections on the back, to turn the 15A Receptacle into a fuse on a 20A circuit by _making the receptacle the splice!_.
@@TimeSurfer206 What do you think of WAGO connectors?
@@Roy-ij1wq I am not impressed with any Knife-Blade style of connector.
I love every time you open up outlets and show us the guts. I’ve been wondering since your last string of outlet videos if commercial grade 15-amp would be safe for 20-amp use. Thanks for anticipating my question and making such a great video! My practices for outlet replacement have been completely changed for the better by your videos.
I am a long time DIY'er. One of my major regrets is not using commercial grade.
No. Only a 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker, 15 amp receptacle on a 15 amp breaker. You could put a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker, but why? Never the other way. Why? The gage of the wiring.
Thanks John and appreciate your support over the years 🙌
@@robertmacdonald8447 The answer to John's question is yes, it would be safe as the pass through amps are 20, but in reality it would never happen because the face plate on a 15 amp receptacle will only allow a 15 amp plug to be used. Tens of millions of 15 amp receptacles are safely and legally in service on 20 amp circuits in America. The only difference in the receptacles are the faceplate slot configurations.
@@robertmacdonald8447 "You could put a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker, but why?" Because a 15 amp is cheaper and the guts are identical.
Another good vid. I have not been able to find commercial grade Decora-style receptacles. I buy the ones from Eaton. They are priced like commercial grade, but don't have back-wire capability, for example. Perhaps a video teardown comparing Decora-style receptacles would interest your viewers, since that style is so popular these days.
I believe you can order them from Home Depot.
You really hit the nail on the head with this video. As a general rule, it is a waste of money to purchase 20-amp receptacles versus heavy duty 15-amp versions, especially given the innards are identical. The highest amperage device i have found is hair dryers, which are rated at 1875 watts. Divide that by the 125 volt nominal rating of receptacles and you get 15 amps. It's almost like the manufacturers designed the hair dryer to be at the maximum rating of a 15-amp receptacle.
As you showed, the reason NEMA specifies the perpendicular grounded terminal for 20-amp attachment plugs is so they can only be used on receptacles on 20-amp circuits and not potentially overload a 15-amp circuit.
An important point to make is that circuit breakers only protect the wiring, not the devices in use on the circuit. Ideally, all residential circuits would be wired with 12 awg wiring with 20-amp breakers, therefore making capacity moot. However, 12 awg wiring costs 50٪ more, uses more material, and is harder to work with than 14 awg. So, we're left with the compromise of 15 and 20-amp receptacles.
Related to this, I've learned it's better to wire dedicated circuits with 14 awg wiring when the device is rated 1440 watts or less, especially disposals, dishwashers, and air handlers. I also do this for refrigerators and microwaves/hoods when the inspector permits it (some think all kitchen circuits must be 20-amps, not just the two small appliance circuits mentioned in Code.) Why spend 50% more on wiring for literally no benefit?
"It's almost like the manufacturers designed the hair dryer to be at the maximum rating of a 15-amp receptacle" Of course, that is exactly what they did. Appliances are designed to be usable on common circuits. As for others, Canadian code stipulates that microwave should be on 20 amp AFCI protected circuit
@@dmitripogosian5084 Too bad my sarcasm didn't translate well in writing. But yes, that is absolutely why they did it. When I was a kid, I remember hair dryers were rated 1920 watts, which by sheer coincidence is the same as 80% of a 20 amp circuit...
Manufactured homes that I've seen use 14 gauge wire for most of the wireing. To make things more interesting they daisy chain plug to plug with back stab 15 amp plugs.
After your video I looked at one of my plugs and it had gotten hit enough that it melted the plastic in the back and the wires got hot enough that I had to cut off more than an inch just so I could strip the wire!
I'm replacing ALL my plugs in the house. Have found 2 more not plugs
This is very good deatails thank you😄
Hi there!!
First thanks for enlightening me on differences with 15a 20a receptacles and the wiring types and all. Very informative
Quick question tho.. so when I plug in my vacuum in certain different sockets in my mobile home and the breaker kicks power off.. does that mean I have bad wiring is present somewhere or should I just purchase a new vacuum or call an electrician?
The home is quite up in age as well as the vacuum and I’ve learned a lot from this video so if I do have to call electrician I can ATLEAST sound like a mechanic ha
Any advice will be appreciated
Great info. Thank you for your video.
I SAW ANOTHER OF YOUR VIDEOS EXPLAINING SOMETHING ABOUT OUTLETS AND RIGHT OF WAY I SUBSCRIBED. I LIKE THE INFORMATION RECEIVED FROM YOUR VIDEOS. I DO HAVE A PLAN FOR A FUTURE ADD ON OUTLESTS IN MY SON'S SHOP AND YOUR VIDEO INFO AS BEEN ON POINT.
Thanks David!
😂
Great information! I’m in the process of checking all wiring on my outlets and switches since home builder electrician back stabbed most of them.
I still don’t quite understand if you have a 15 amp outlet on 20 amp circuit will the outlet only ever draw a max of 15 amps? I don’t understand how outlet can limit the draw, or if that’s just a max rating on the outlet?
A typical cord cap/plug, the 2 blades are straight/parallel. That's a 15A configuration. A 20 amp configuration is where they're perpendicular, T shaped. If something is designed to draw more than 15 amps, it will have a 20 amp plug on the end of the cord and it will not fit into a 15 amp recep. The link between the two sides of a recep is rated for 20 amps, so on a 20 amp circuit the breaker will trip before any parts of the recep exceed their ratings.
My wife and I just bought a house built in 1980, and it's getting really close to us needing to upgrade our electrical package to bring everything up to code. It's old enough where none of the outlets close to water sources are GFCI when they should be. I've added one to the hall bathroom, but have yet to do the same to the kitchen, and master bathroom. We have big plans to renovate part of the house, and that would most likely cover a full plumbing gut/replacement. Once we get to that point, in about 200 yrs, we'll do most of it in one shot, lol.
Another outstanding video. Thank you Scott.
You bet, thanks for the support 👍
Thanks for the video, sorry I missed the live ✌👍
No problem, we will catch you on the next one. 🙌
Appreciate the video. Very helpful. Question: A 15 amp outlet Does the top handle 15 amps. And the bottom 15amps? Or is it a toral combined 15 amps. Thanks.
at one time not too long ago, kitchens counter outlets were wired with a split 15a outlet on a 15 amp circuit. I guess the rationale being that kitchen counters are prone to being overloaded with appliances. That was changed in the past 15 years or so to install 20a (non split) outlet on a 20 amp circuit. That's the most common place I've seen 20a outlets.
What kitchen appliance require a 20a outlet? Every fridge, toaster, blender, microwave, air fryer I've ever seen are rated for 15a outlets...
@@joseph7105 some air fryers require a 20 amp circuit. But that's not why kitchen outlets were changed to 20 amp. It's because people would plug in multiple items to the outlet at the same time. For example if you had a toaster, kettle and blender going at the same time on the same circuit. That's why the outlets used to be split. Now they are 20 amp.
One seemingly minor problem with the several commercial or heavy duty grade outlets you recommend that people use instead of residential grade ones is the center nut that you install the faceplate bolt into.
On all the commercial or heavy duty grade outlets I've seen, they're not very strong and if you overtighten the bolt even a little, the "tube" that the nut is attached to that secures it to the backplate of of the outlet breaks off and now there's nothing to secure that bolt. Yet for some reason they're more secure on the residential outlets I've seen.
Now if you're only looking to attach a standard faceplate to the outlet then that's not a big problem, just go easy and it should be fine, just a few inch-pounds should do it.
But if you're attaching an outlet extender, the sort that have 4, 5, 6 or more outlets on them and maybe some USB ports, that are often the best way to connect more than a couple of devices to mains power, then you're going to need to tighten that down some more to secure it, since they're much heavier and bulkier than faceplates, and these higher-end outlets can't seem to handle that.
Any suggestions? Are there commercial or heavy duty grade outlets that can handle being tightened more than to faceplate spec? Sure, you can use a power strip instead of a plug-in outlet extender, but they're not always practical or feasible.
If you use power tools, you gonna sometimes exceed 15 A on a outlet. I didnt know how similar they were electrically tho. That's probably a good idea because I would likely just look at the panel and say yeah 20 circuit. Good enough for this table saw. I would actually favor printing 15 A on the outside of those outlets. Can you tell without opening the thing?
Great and very informative video!! Thank you!!
You bet!
Excellent vid...subscribed.
What I see in new residential are mixed circuits, with ceiling lights sharing circuits with wall receptacles on 14 gauge wire ln long runs. Not an electrician myself, but as a renovator my clients are asking me to look at electrical problems as a side issue. Lots of arc fault breakers not playing nice with bathrooms
One thing I've noticed here in Canada is that the 120 volt, 20 amp receptacles of 40 years ago could only take 20 amp appliances plugged into them (the neutral slot was horizontal). Nowadays, the 20 amp receptacles have a "T" - shaped neutral, allowing for the connection of both 15 amp and 20 amp plugs.
Correct they changed things to be similar to the NEC way of doing things back in the 90's and a good thing they did as it allows more flexibility now with what you can plug in and where. The 20A 240v version in Canada are the same now as well, they will accept a 15 OR 20A 240v plug.
This may also be a side effect of older allowances or NEMA 1 (120v) and 2 (240v) outlets. When we did some renovations on an older house we had, there we 2 prong receptacles where both terminals had unpolarized "T" shaped slots, which could allow someone to plug in 15A and 20A devices at 120v, but ALSO allow someone to attempt a 220v device as well. It was a little unsettling because it also told us that the opposite situation could also exist, where a 220v circuit allowed 120v devices to be plugged into it.
@@REWYRED very interesting. You have to wonder if Canada changed the code regarding 15 and 20 amp receptacles to be more competitive with the US regarding importing goods. Because here in the US, 120V/20A plugs are rare, most equipment drawing currents higher than 15A are designed for 240V-15A or more.
@@ghammer9773 Yes, I've seen those T slot two prong outlets, the one's I came across were polarized although I would not assume the wider slot was the neutral, like is required in modern practice. Had the rating of 125V-15A/250V-10A. Particularly during the roaring 20s, when most cities and suburbs had electricity for the first time and a wide variety of electrical gadgets hit the market, there were two versions of 120V plugs, the horizontal prongs and vertical prongs, before the NEMA standards were widely adopted across the board both versions were used interchangeably with 120 and 240 volts and the end user had to know what voltage was being supplied before plugging in lamps and appliances.
@@Sparky-ww5re 20A plugs are rare on appliances here as well but they do exist... Not so much for resi applications but where I work, in a hospital 20A straight blade plugs both of the 120V and 240V configuration exist and are pretty common...
Dialysis machines and some I.T. equipment are some I can think of that have 20A plugs.
I think they adopted 20A circuits for kitchens and the respective receptacle because it's cheaper to GFI protect a 20A circuit vs a traditional 15A "split". And being Canada we are not allowed to put a 15A device on a 20A circuit........ Even though we all know nothing bad will likely happen.
I’ve found that 15 amp GFCI outlets are sensitive at the upper limit. The electrical contractor installed all 15 amp outlets with GFCI protection at an industrial facility that used pumps and power tools. I finally had to draw a picture of a 20 amp outlet, so they could install the correct outlets for my people could use power tools to do their job.
Another common appliance with a 120 volt 20 amp plug, is a professional grade treadmill. In the kitchen, sometimes you see then on a professional grade toaster oven or heavy duty microwave oven. It's with noting that whenever an appliance or piece of equipment comes from the factory with a 20 amp plug on It's power cord, that means it draws more than 15A and close to 20A. It will probably mention in the instruction manual that the product is for use on individual branch circuit only, and technically you are required to follow the manufacturer's instructions on any product with a UL listing or a listing from another Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) . That said, most times 20 amp receptacles are installed so the occupants can tell at a glance it's a 20 amp circuit.
Good stuff Kyle, I appreciate the feedback 👍
The overcurrent protection on a 20 amp braker is 20 percent
Alot of what you said is correct, but a product with a 20 amp plug does not mean that it draws close to 20 amps. 16 amps would be the maximum recommended. Anything more would require a 30 amp 240v circuit, which would give a 24 amp safe maximum. It could also have a 20 amp 240v plug which would require only half the current for the same power (watts).
I have a stovetop range that came a 20 amp plug and is rated as 1630 watts or 13.6 amps. I verified this with a clamp meter. It requires a dedicated circuit as you mentioned. Some other products could use more power, but not more than 16 amps or 1920 watts. The safe maximum is based on 80% of the circuit rating and only applies for a continuous load (3 hours or more).
Appliance ratings are misleading. My vitamix (vm0197) blender is rated for 11.5 amps. It never actually draws that though. In fact, the current draw only gets close to that when the blender starts generating lots heat from an excessive amount of work which requires more energy for it operate. So in other words, I'd have to turn the speed dial up to 10 and put to full trays of ice in the carafe and let it go for 5 minutes before it even got close to drawing that much current.
Personally, I want to get a nema 6-15 or nema 6-20 in my kitchen one day so I can use a 3kW electric kettle like is available in Europe.
Like your Xtreme Garage shelving! Wish it was still sold!
5:06 The receptacle in the middle is NOT just like the 5-20 on the right, the one in the middle is using the 'T' configuration grip on BOTH sides. So even the 5-20 had some cost-cutting measures done, once they designed a grip that was only for the vertical blade.
I think the outlet in the middle is the cost cut model. It is cheaper to make 1000 pieces of one part than it is to make 500 of one part and then 500 of another.
Using the T grip on both sides of both 15 and 20 amp outlets allows the manufacturer to shut down the machine that makes the vertical grip. And the casting for both types is the same,
The amount of brass saved is negligible.
Standardizing as much as possible saves production.
@@scottbc31h22 possibly, however, I used to work at an injection molding plant, and they would haggle for material discounts as small as a penny a ton. And this was making milk caps, barely two to three ounces of plastic per cap.
The 15amp. Rating is because of the nema configuration , the gauge of the conductors inside is.the same as a 20amp outlet,it's the configuration that determines the amperage.
Great video bro. Just subscribed 👍
Thanks man, good work on your channel and way to pump out the content 👊
Great video, thank you!
So if im running a 30a single pole breaker (120v) for a network ups that uses the nema l5-30 can i put some additional 20 amp receptacles on that branch or can i only serve that one outlet?
Back when I was a kid, My Grandma had Time Life Books for the basics of different trades. I read the electrical cover to cover, multiple times. Then I would ride my bike to the library and get all I could find about electrical.
Cool- that's great knowledge at an early age for career development
If you have a 20 amp plug can you use if for general use? I'm thinking I should put a 20 amp in my garage for my motorhome hookup; can I also use that outlet for Christmas lights and other light duty stuff?
5:10 that older 15 uncovered is definitely different than the new 20.
That older one looks like it might be 5-20R or 5-20P ready.
The horizontal is on both side.
in the kitchen there are many instances where people are running coffee machine and toaster on the same outlet, at the same time so 20 amp is needed
5:13 Interesting thing about the older one is it has the sideways metal slots for 20A plugs on both sides, top and bottom.
That would imply that they also put 20amp 220v covers on that hardware. The production line builds three varietions of receptacles simply by changing out the covers.
Yep, each brand handles it a bit differently but you can get an outlet with "guts" made for a much more demanding application if you play it right. I was a bit surprised to see the design change to the 15 Amp since the last time I opened one up.
Very good explanation and helpful. Though I have a modern breaker panel (2005) for my condo, the main breaker is only 125 amps, so it would be extremely expensive for me to upgrade for an electric car for a Level 2 charger. But for me, my charging needs are minimal and I have considered instead upgrading a 15 amp style outlet that is on a 20 amp circuit in my garage to a 20 amp outlet that can handle a special adapter that Tesla has optionally available to allow their cars to charge at a 15 amp (3/4 capacity draw) instead at the usual 12 amp draw used for a 120 volt circuit. This would allow the car to charge at a 6 miles per hour recharge instead of 4 miles per hour. So, this is another scenario outside of a window AC or jackhammer that would be able to take advantage of a 20 amp outlet. In any case, even if I decide to charge at the lower default power draw, I think that upgrading to a commercial grade outlet for an EV might be wise for anyone using a 120 volt circuit.
Thankyou for the book recommendation, sir! I shamefully admit I have scrolled past your channel quite a few times. Been picking away at some of your videos and I dont subscribe very often, however, earned my sub 🙏
Nice, welcome to the channel!
If I have a mix of circuits not 15A and 20A. Can I simply things and just make them all 20 A with 12 Ga wire? Or is that bad to do or over kill
I just subscribed to your channel even though I learned electrical wiring when I was in the 9th grade and I'm 70. What I learned back then is so antiquated, I desperately need upgrading myself! 🤣 Seriously though, I have really enjoyed your video's and the new information you give me. Just from this video alone, I will never buy anything but commercial grade outlets from now on. Especially since the contractor was very cheap, and used 14ga. wire instead of 12ga., and wired the house himself instead of getting an electrician to do the work back in 1988. Just back in June of this year that cost me and my wife over $2300 to have the electrical panel replaced by a professional electrical company. That fixed more problems we were having than I can count. The old panel had several breakers that were not connecting because the connection strip was burned out!
Welcome to the channel and thanks for providing the story showing saving a few bucks today can cost many more dollars in the future.
Thanks to utube - I'm just learning about electrical wiring at 56 - good medicine
does the idea of having multiple 15A and 20A receps. on a 20A circuit also apply to a 30A circuit or any circuit higher than 30A for that matter provided of course that the correct gauge cable is used? I would like to have a complete guide about these types of things, but no information ever covers it in general; is it suppose to be obvious?
The info is in Table 210.24 in the NEC. Receps on a 30A circuit must be have a 30A rating.
I prefer using commercial grade receptacles as well but don't necessarily see the need for 20A receptacles throughout the house. However, it' s really tough to find Decora style commercial grade 15A receptacles that are tamper resistant as code dictates for living spaces.
also read the manufacturer's labeling/instructions. Some 15A receptacles say on them "only use on 15A circuit"
Sir... I'm a audiofile and I recently decided to change at least 3 outlets all (15a) to a outlet that's for my high end audio gear what brand would you recommend?
I have a 15 amp duplex outlet with two recepticles connected to a 20 amp breaker. Can i use the 20 amps at full capacity given that i have a 15 amp duples recepticle. And also do i need to evenly use both recepticles in the outlets in the electric load is high?
As a retired electronic and electrical eng.. Yes you can (not a biggy) circuit should break if you overload just be careful in the kitchen and bathroom. Wiring is the key also look how easy you can reset your circuit braker.
If I run 12/2, I use 20A outlets. That way, I have the extra capability if needed, and it's easy to identify the circuit capacity. I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't just go with the full boat if it's available.
Honestly it's probably almost allways due to cost especially when it's basically unnecessary in the living space of a residential house where almost nothing we use is going to even draw close to 20 amps and so installing a bunch of 15-amp outlets is fine. Not only that, unless everything else is off on the circuit, you won't be capable of drawing 20 amps anyways, so there's that.
A Harvest Right Freeze Dryer is required a dedicated 20 amp circuit. When I shop for an electrician, what should I ask them, and what should I watch out for?
I subbed and rang that bell.
You should say you want a 20 amp branch circuit with a dedicated 20 amp receptacle. Single or duplex is up to you. Either will work.
I have been upgrading to commercial outlets, makes sense they are a lot less than a Big Mac and safety first
Out of curiosity does this apply to light switches? I see the sonoff touch switches for smart home tech are 15 amp. (not sure how much I would trust them to begin with but I am looking into them anyway) Would they be okay to use on a 20 amp circuit?
Continue your investigation. One point you may wish to focus on while investigating is the typically loads of modern lighting. Especially lighting rated/used in residential environments.
It is ultimately your responsibility as the installer to know why you use what.
I will agree with the presenter of the video, I do like to use the cheapest receptacle available (I do understand why contractors do so) just think a modern moderate size home has 100+ receptacles-that is $100 that remains in his account. However, if installing s bunch, a higher quality residential receptacle should be priced between those options.
Thanks very helpful
You bet!
We have a portable air conditioning with a 20amp (horizontal neutral prong) plug… we currently use the converter to plug into our standard 15amp receptacle. Can we change out the receptacle? The converter is bulky and does not provide a stable connection
If this is a 20 circuit with 12 gauge wire, then yes.
Just so I am perfectly clear here, according to code, if I have a 20a breaker and 12AWG wire, I can use 15a outlets/receptacles as long as I have TWO or more outlets on that same circuit?
If true, then that means I should strictly use a 20a outlet/receptacle for a microwave outlet since it's the only outlet on that circuit/breaker? Is that accurate?
Not exactly. If you install a single receptacle (called simplex) then it must be 20 ampere device. If you install a duplex receptacle, then it can be 15 amps. That may make no sense, but the intent is, if a designer or electrician knows ahead of time about a true 20 amp appliance with 20 amp plug, then they can put the single device in so that no other appliance can be connected. A residential microwave has a 15 amp plug and if you read the book that comes with it, typically calls for a dedicated 15 amp 120 volt circuit.
Well explained. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Hassan, how are things going? Ready to jump back into REI yet? I will be at BPCON San Diego next month. You should go!
You will be my preferred reference to this information. I like everything about the way you present this information to knuckleheads like myself. Thank you for clear, concise delivery of the things I need to know.
I have a QUESTION -----> I have a plasma cutter (dual volt) and i am wiring my shed but can only get 30 amps in there SOOOO I want to put in a 220volt 30amp outlet but use a 50amp outlet so the cutter will just plug in without the 110 adapter ?? Any thoughts ???
It must be different where you are. Here a fifteen amp circuit has a fifteen amp breaker. And the cabling is 14 awg so there is a big difference. I am also older so maybe codes have changed. 🤗
I ran 10 ga in all my grandparents complete 1950 home rebuild in NJ and it was only about $100 more for the wire, can that ever be unsafe?
I have a 120-volt GFCI outlet with a 15-amp receptacle on a 20-amp circuit, in my garage.
My question, is that I have something that I need to plug in that recommends using a 120-volt GFCI outlet with a 15-amp circuit. Are their any issues with my outlet having a 20-amp circuit?
No issues, the circuit rating must be the same or greater, just can't be less.
Good information 👍.
Thx!
where you are talking about the thickness at 4:18 ; isn't the thickness determined by the amperage/resistance of the outlet and not by the quality or price? I believe that the same way that the gauge of the wire determines the resistance/amperage that it can carry, so does the gauge of the prongs and parts in the outlet determines the resistance and that is why the 20a outlet has a horizontal pin? Does that make sense?
this is all good in the US... but here in Canada due to $ difference.. a standard outlet is about $380 at Home Depot... The pro versions run around $8 each. Can get a bit costly when you need a lot of them.
What the heck is home depot doing with a 47x markup? :p
I'm going to assume that you meant $3.80, which is still way high. A 15 amp receptacle in the US is less than a dollar.
@@davedammitt7691 yea.. woops
I used to deliver copiers. One day I was swapping out a machine with a 20 amp plug for another with the same. I unplugged the old copier and found they had twisted the horizontal prong to make it fit into the 15 amp outlet.
So I can use a converter for my table saw that has a nema 5-20 to use on the 5-15 in the garage or switch it out to a 20A receptacle?
You could do either if it's a 20 amp circuit, but make sure there's no or low load on that circuit when using the table saw. Keep in mind however, that this is most likely a code violation. Check your owner's manual because a nema 5-20P normally requires a dedicated circuit.
I know a guy who put 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp breaker and 19 people were killed. They were swept away by an avalanche, but I believe it was caused by the wiring.
Is 14/2 wire safe to install as a extra length on a 15amp outlet with a 20 amp breaker? When I redid my outlets which are 15 amp/125 volt it seems like the wire was slightly thicker than the 14/2
if it's a 20 amp breaker all conductors must be minimum #12
@1:37, “...Wago nut, which you know I highly recommend...” , nice stealthy ‘plug’ for for Wago connector.
Are those Tamper Resistant pricing?
Wow, I've never known that you could tell a 15 amp receptacle from a 20 by visual inspection and I never knew why some outlets have that T-shaped hole for one prong. Thanks!
You bet 👍
i believe they design 15-amp duplex outlets to allow 20-amp power since you could have two 10- or 12-amp devices plugged into a 15-amp duplex receptacle and gfci outlets even say 20 amp pass through since you have multiple outlets downstream all running through the gfci outlet
Do you have a recommendation for "Decora" - style commercial grade receptacles?
You can always breaker down relative to wire size and outlet rating.
Personally I would use a 15 amp breaker with awg12 wire and 15amp outlet, regardless of the number of outlets on the circuit.
Only time I use awg 14 is for a ceiling light or dedicated outlet for a refrigerator.
That is your “Rule of Thumb”. Not an NEC compliance comment.
@@KevinCoop1 NEC compliance - you can ALWAYS breaker down for a given wire size and outlet.
NEC states maximum breaker size, not minimum for safety reasons.
Heck, you can put a single outlet on a single circuit on a single breaker if you wanted. But panel might have 100 breakers in it...
You just cannot 'put a penny in it when you keep blowing fuses' scenario.
Then your breaker may commence tripping for no good reason. There’s a lot of margin built into the code.
Common 15A rated 14-2 will actually endure 30A no problem even in a fiberglass insulated wall and passing through wooden studs. 12-2 likely good for 33% more, so 40A easy. Point being the margin that is built-in. Never actually load over rated circuit capacity though.
Copper ain’t cheap.
@@Blake4Truth I saw a chart one time that showed how many amps a wire was rated for.
You can overload wire depending on the amps over time.
I think 14/2 was rated 20 amps for 2 hours.
Or 15 amps continuously.
IMHO it is not worth the risk to over-breaker outlets.
People are insane and will plug in far too much on the same circuit.
@@crazysquirrel9425
Rated means huge factor of safety. That’s what you’re missing. Wire is also rated for temperature at rated ampacity. It’s all already covered. You never need a 15A breaker on a 14-2 circuit.
One problem I run into with using 15 amp outlet on 20 amp 12 awg solid core 2 conductor w bare ground is the bare ground is too big to fit between the ground screw and the metal tabs on either side of it.
Most people still misunderstand the point of the circuit breaker. It is NOT there to protect your devices or the outlet itself. You can see the outlet if it catches fire. The point of the circuit breakers is to protect the wires you can't see in the walls. Neither the wires nor the circuit breaker nor the outlet actually transmit current. The devices plugged or wired into a circuit take what they need. No more, no less. If a device only needs 15 amps it will only draw 15 amps even if plugged into a circuit capable of providing 100 amps. The circuit breaker simply limits the current that a device CAN draw to protect the wires from literally melting and catching for in your walls. That happened in my house when I was a little kid in the 80s in my parents house that still had a fuse box in the basement and sections of knob and tube circuits in the walls. Just one wire caught in the walls and the house was a total loss. We didn't lose everything but the house did have to be leveled and rebuilt.
So can we use a 20 amp plug for a 9k btu AC to a 15 amp receptacle with a converter ??
I use 20 amp commercial rated outlets in my house. Once in, I never have changed same one again. Those cheap ones that are 15 amp rated I don't use, plus they don't hold up either over time.
Breakers protect wires / stop fires from overheating because of the resistance of the conductor.
I would assume the code has some max length of the breaker to wire ie 15amp breaker on 14g wire.
No, it does not state a maximum length of conductor. It does however “Strongly suggest” that voltage drop on a branch circuit be at 3% or less. The longer the circuit, the more resistance, the lower the volts, and higher amps is what the issue is. Higher amps=more heat. Increase conductor size to reduce resistance is the resolve.
@KevinCoop1 yep thats what i said.
and who is measuring this voltage drop?
Electrical inspector, oh manufacturer I would bet which then would get us back to a max length on a specific gauge for a breaker, which should be matched to the gauge.
I wonder what voltage drop per foot is for these gauges?
Gaming PC's here soon are gonna need a dedicated 220V plug, when i rewire my house i'm putting 1-2 in my game room for my next PC, they have 30a 120v breakers as well dude
Of course, it shouldn't be a hazard to put a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit.
A 15A outlet means that you can't plug a 20A device into it, In other words unless you are deliberately trying to overload the receptacle (e.g. with power strips that have the circuit breakers defeated), the outlet will be limiting you to a 15A load. There's never a problem using a smaller load than the circuit is rated for.
The only theoretical way that this could be a problem would be if the receptacle would be wired in series with a higher current load. For example, the hot line into the receptacle, and its neutral line going to the hot side of another device. This could cause more than 15A to flow through the receptacle. But that kind of wiring would massively violate code and be practically useless (because a device would have to be plugged into the receptacle for the downstream device to have any power).
The way circuits are actually wired (in parallel), means that the load carried by a receptacle is not affected loads elsewhere on that circuit. So no problem.
Yea I thought the question was sort of silly. And now you'll be limited to using adapters when taking advantage of the circuit rating. Odd.
What if I plug two 9.5A devices into each socket of a 15A twin outlet? If the outlet is on a 15A breaker, the breaker will trip. If it's on a 20A breaker, the outlet will be overloaded without tripping the breaker.
@@Adam1nToronto It shouldn't be. The rating for a duplex receptacle should be for each plug, not for the entire unit.
Interesting video, thanks. I was hoping you might be able to shed some light on a situation in my home. I just had a new service upgrade to 200amp which also included a new interior panel and circuits. I also had my home completely rewired (I'm doing a gut job on an old home). I have 20 amp circuits with 15 amp outlets. When I run a shop vac and a circular saw at the same time off the same outlet, the saw's power will drop considerably, almost to the point that you cant use it. I have tried other tools and the same problem occurs. I tested the outlet and I am getting 120 amp of voltage. Could it possibly be a cheap outlet? It also happens on other outlets that have been completely rewired, regardless of 12 or 14g wiring. I asked my electrician to check but he says everything is correct. Is there something specific I can look for or ask him to clarify? I was going to have the circuits changed to 15amp, but dont think that's the issue. Thanks!
“120 amp of voltage” I’ll assume that that’s a typo and that you’re seeing 120 _volts._ But are you seeing those 120 volts with nothing running? You might find that voltage a bit lower when your shop vac is on.
You could also be at the end of the line. Far away from the supply transformer. Or as has been the case, you may have a 200 amp service but the overhead wire is feeding it run too far distance and are undersized. Conductors running free air don't have to be as large...
What about switches? I had a 20A breaker on a circuit to a dishwasher, but the cutoff switch for that appliance was only 15A. Since I was in the box anyway (I had no GFIs in my circa 1970 house and was putting that in the box), I chose to upgrade that to a 20A switch. Did I waste my time?
Maybe, maybe not. Residential dishwashers can range from 1200 watts to 2400 watts. Or at 120 volts 10 amps to 20 amps. If I were the engineer designing that space, I would require a 20 amp circuit and 20 amp switch, just in case the homeowner wanted that one that sucks lots of power. So, my feeling, you did well!
Seems to me that what are now called 15 amp outlets were formerly considered 20 amp outlets, & that they can physically run 20 amps with no problem. & when I wired an addtion to my home, I used #10 wire from the breaker box to the outlet anyway.
Hi, can you explain what causes a open ground and/or how to correct it?
You don’t have a good ground back to your panel. So your ground is either broke somewhere or not wired correctly. Open your box and make sure your receptacle is connected to either the green/bare copper ground wore. If it’s a metal box, bond the ground to the box and then pigtail off to your receptacle.
Orlando, Do you have one receptacle with open ground, or many of them?
@@KevinCoop1
I have four receptacles showing open ground
Thanks for information ! Question: I live in a 30 year old duplex/condo. Why would our kitchen be on a 20 amp, multi-wire branch circuit? Our neighbor's are also . . . The two, 20amp breakers have a handle tie and I presume the two circuits share a common neutral. Thanks, Bob
Kitchen requires at least two 20 amp circuits. Rather than running two 12/2 cables, run a single 12/3, each hot is a 20amp circuit and they share the neutral. Back before arc fault breakers this was done all the time. Saves cable and labor.
Thanks@@pld8993 our homes are 30+ years old. All these home are wired with a multi-wire branch circuits for the kitchens.
Should an AC be on its own breaker?
Midea U channel Window, 115 volts at 60hz,
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