Shall I Use a 15A or a 20A Receptacle on a 20A Circuit? + 2020 NEC 210.21(B)(1) and 210.21(B)(3)
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2020
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the scotty kilmer of the sparky world
LOL!
Hey Bronson...let me buy you some razors...your face looks like 70s porn.
So true!
@@theoneaboveall8625 Maybe he'll give you a mustache ride.
😂 very accurate
Very interesting. I saw something in the past that said there was no difference between a 15 amp and 20 amp receptacle except for the face. You blew the hell out of that argument. I knew there was a price difference between two seemingly identical receptacles but had never heard of specification grade. Again, very informative.
Sounds good Fred!
With some brands of receps, ya there is no difference other than the face.
There is no difference between a spec grade 15 amp or 20 amp receptacle, outside of the face plate. If your load has a 5-15 attachment plug, a 15 amp spec grade receptacle will do just fine. Don't spend double for the 20 amp.
Man idk y been doing electric and watching yt over 10 years and just started finding these channels. Working on getting masters this year. These videos an MOST comments are awsome just to hear different opinions. Thankyou all for taking you time to do and comment on these videos it's extremely helpful.
I'm glad I found this site because it's very helpful keep up the good work man
Thanks, will do!
As always so informative, thank you Sparky
Very welcome, thanks!
I ALWAYS use 20A receptacles for 20A circuits so that I can visually recognize when the circuit is 20A. I am far more inclined to use 20A circuits for heavy loads, even though they are less than 15 amps, because you will have less circuit heating and less voltage drop.
BTW NEC says it's okay to put 15amp outlets on 20A circuits
Excellent!
thank you
I agree 100%.
Good but not required. I may run some dedicated 20 amp circuits and use 20 amp outlets. I have a power strip that has the 20 amp plug on it I cannot use it right now at the present time. 73
Thanks Sparky Channel, another great video. Sometimes its nice to confirm with an actual Code reference. Time to get the highlighter out and highlight some code.
Thanks for doing some code videos; great food for thought for us apprentices out here! Happy 4th of July weekend!
No problem. I don't think it's right to say "the code is this or that". I think it's much better to show the actual code. Thanks Tom!
When I install a 20 amp circuit and use 15 amp receptacles, I pig tail the receptacles, so that the circuit is not diminished to 15 amps. If you pass through a 15 amp receptacle on the way to another receptacle(s), it has become the weakest link in the chain of receptacles. If you pigtail, the electricity to the final receptacles is not passing through the previous receptacles.
15A receptacles are all rated for 20A of pass-through current.
I never pass through any receptacle. I always use jumpers or "pigtails"... I also always use 20A receptacles on 20 amp circuits & 15A receptacles on 15 amp circuits. I also use spec grade or better switches & receptacles.
Great informing video, Im currently taking electrician classes
Thanks Michael! Best wishes!
Same :)
Thx so much. You caused me extra work after replacing outlets where I put 20s into a 15 circuit. I want it to be correct and you took out the confusion. Appreciate it.
Excellent!
A couple of years ago, I had to replace a light switch, and the guy at the local "big box" hardware store told me that rather than pay the $4 for the "specification grade" one, I could save $1 by buying one that wasn't. I was thinking "You know, I'm hooking this up to my house wiring. I think I'll pay the extra buck."
LOL! I'm so happy you paid the extra buck. Much higher quality!
Everyone needs to realize, Sparky is not the maker, enforcer, or writer of the rules he is explaining. He is just helping everyone to understand them. He knows that alot of the rules may be stupid. You people asking for him to tell you why for some stupid rule that is randomly related to this video need to realize; the reason some rules exist is because somewhere along the line, some idiot messed up. If they performed as described in the resulting rule, they would have avoided the issue.
Amen! :)
Sparky, you have no idea how many master electricians I asked this very question.
I did my own kitchen remodel and 1 thing I wanted to do was take a ceiling light down from over the sink and install a GFI receptacle in its place then run some 14/2 across the ceiling to the opposite side above the stove microwave. These 2 receptacles are for LED lighting only.
Builder had 20a 12/2 on that light so what you are stating So happy now!
That I believe is against code
VERY THOROUGH EXPLANATIONS. Thanks for the solid info!
Thanks!
Good video and channel.
I have 14 gauge wire and currently a 15 amp GFI in my bathroom. It's hooked up to my entire garage and an outlet in my basement.
I have replaced it twice now and not only does it trip, but it DIES.
Can I put a 20 amp GFI outlet in its place?
if no, what if I have an extra wire (ground) coming out of the cable?
Thank you.
On a 20 amp line you can have ~6 15 amp recepticals. on a 15 amp line it may only be ~4. Once you start putting 20 amp recepticals on a 20 amp line like a laundry room you better have only 2. So swapping 15A outlets for a larger 20A is not always OK it all depends on the whole circuit design. The 20A lines may be there to save on line runs.
Thanks Dan!
There is no NEC article regarding how many receps you can have on a circuit.
I believe in the code, NEC code, old, you will find it tells you to take the figure of 1.5 amps And divide that into The circuit you are working on. 80% of 15 amps is 12", 80% of 20 amps is 16 amps. Amps. If you never exceed 80% of the load you will never get it hot enough to cause a fire
At the 2:56 mark you stated that for a single receptacle you must use a 20a receptacle for 12/2 that is protected by a 20a breaker. However, you could use a larger than 20a receptacle as well as long as the receptacle is the has the same or higher rating than the circuit. In other words you could use a 20a, 30a or even 50a on a circuit protected by a 20a breaker. Not too common in a house though, but is for certain purposes such as an RV for example.
Wish I saw this video when I remodeled my kitchen. Great video.
Thanks, have a great day!
Shhhhhh the code inspectors are on the way
I agree. Their are a bunch of really cheap outlets and switches out there. Good video Sparky.
I agree with you! Thanks Gary!
If you are from Canada watching this according to the CEC 26-700(2) only 20A receptacles can be connected to 20A circuits.
And in Canada within a dwelling, you may NOT put a luminaire on a 20A circuit... elsewhere you may.
very educational and thank you for showing us how to properly use these outlets! :)
Welcome!
Thank you for this very helpful and informative video sir. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks!
Is specification grade the same as commercial grade?
I just want to thank you for all your knowledge and thanks for sharing I learn a lot as you explain you are a great teacher to teach God take care of you and protect you
You are very welcome. Thanks Helmer!
Make sure your outdoor receptacles are 20 amp circuits. I hate it when I run my circular saw outdoors and the circuit breaker keeps tripping.
Yes, I agree for sure!
Years ago worked in a large new single home that had 2 outdoor receptacles and 3 full bathrooms on a single 15 amp GFCI circuit breaker. Called my inspector and told me it was not right but okay by the cide at that time. Besides residental counter top & laundry area have to be in 20 amp circuits they should make all outdoor receptacles wired to 20 amp circuit breaker.
Same with my house. All my outside and countertop outlets are on 15 amp circuit.
House was built in 1990
@Sparky Channel. Thanks Bill for the explanation. Very informative.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
No problem, thanks so much!
Done this many times, especially in basements - 15a receptacles on a 20a circuit. Like a bit of extra insurance.
And I like those spec grade receptacles - a lot more durable in utility situations.
Thanks Samuel!
I've seen maybe two 20a cord plugs in a couple decades
Talking only spec grade, same manufacturer, other than the "T" shape slots on 20 amp, is there a physical difference in the 15 and 20 A receptacle? When you compared the two it looked like you showed a spec grade 20 and non-spec 15.
Thanks for the great videos. Learning lots about code thanks to you.
there are two main differences. the contacts for the plug are thicker metal on a 20A receptacle than on a 15A receptacle, and on the specific receptacles he showed, the 15A one is approved for use in a dwelling unit, and the 20A one is not approved for use in a dwelling unit. a receptacle to be used in a dwelling unit MUST be rated tamper resistant - which IS available in a 20A rating - but the ones he had were not tamper resistant.
I've always matched the Amp rating to the appropriate reciprocal....had many electricians who have said it makes no difference. Thanks for the clarification!
I've learned alot from Bill and he is one of the best on yt for electrical information. However, he was comparing a residential grade 15 amp to a spec grade 20 amp. He later shows a 15 amp spec grade which has the same design and build quality as the 20 amp. Bottom line, the answers you got from electricians is correct as long as they're both spec grade.
Great video, you cleared all my doubts
Thank you !!!
Glad to hear that! Thanks Milton!
Very different to UK outlets which are all the same pattern. You can quite happily put a standard 13A outlet on a 40A circuit (at 240V). The difference is that, in addition to the circuit protection, there's an individual fuse in each plug rated to that of the flexible cable and the appliance.
Interesting!
Not much different than using a small device using 18awg or 1mm² wire. Personally I call this this the Lamp Cord Theory! 😃
US electrician here,
During my time in the air force, working with British Standard equipment in foreign locations was quite the adventure.
Not only did we have some American wiring, but pre-2004 British wire color codes, AND post-2004 (European Harmonied) color codes, all on the same base!
For all you fellow US electricians out there, just to give you an idea:
Black:
US: A phase
BS: (Pre-2004) Neutral
BS: (Post 2004) B phase.
Blue:
US: C phase
BS: (Pre-2004) C phase
No problem right? Wait!
BS: (Post 2004) Neutral.
Yes folks, blue went from being a phase to a neutral. Oh that alone made troubleshooting anything but boring, especially when both old and new systems were in the same building!
UK wiring essentially uses the size outlet we yanks use for an electric clothes dryer. conversely, all of our convenience outlets run at the voltage your shaver outlet in your bathroom runs at. - plus our ampacity limit; which is why we run multiple circuits. (its also why electric kettles aren't as popular, here. we don't have the raw power to make them heat as rapidly as yours do)
@@kenbrown2808 Standard domestic clothes dryers in the UK are somewhat smaller and run off standard 13A outlets (so are limited to about 3 kW). Anything more powerful than that has to be on a dedicated circuit and hard-wired.
There are no domestic wired receptacle/outlets beyond that (there was a pre-war 15A type). It's deemed that wiped contacts aren't suited to continual high current usage due to the danger of things like arcing and overheating due to corrosion and pitting over time. Even at 13A, fixed appliances which are expected to run at full power for extended periods are meant to be hard-wired.
British plugs are certainly on the large size and some would say over-engineered with solid brass pins, but they are very robust and don't sag loose.
As for shaver sockets, then they are almost universally dual-voltage and can run at the native 230-240V as well as 110-120V. They have an internal isolating transformer so there is no route to ground in wet environments, but they were never designed for high power and will cut out if there's a large power draw.
That dated from the days of fuse-only protection. Now that RCD/GFCI protection is compulsory on all domestic circuits, it might be deemed unnecessary, but the standards remain very conservative on safety matters in bathrooms and RCD/GFCI protection isn't considered 100% reliable. Standard outlets are now allowed in UK bathrooms but they must be at least 3 metres from any bath or shower, so are only practical in larger bathrooms.
In any event, for the normal consumer it's all very straightforward. Shaver sockets aside, there is only one plug type for all portable devices.
Question, a normal person would use 12AWG wire on a 20 amp CB. How many duplex outlets (15A or 20A) would one put on a single circuit? On a commercial building I've found as many as seven. What's worse, some of these outlets were as far as 300 feet from the panel. According to my wire gauge calculator, the wire should have been 6AWG for that distance.
So how many duplex outlets on a 20A circuit?
Jim
There is no set number. You only have voltage drop and resistance ratings to comply to. In theory you could have 10 duplex without violating either on a 20a
There is something called load calculations. The nec assign outlets to be 1.5 amps. 20 amp breaker loaded to 80% gives you 16amps to play with. 16/1.5 = 10.66. 10 receptacles max on 20 amp circuit! I'm an electrical apprentice that has not learned load calc so 🤷
Excellent!!! Thank you so much for clarifying this for me.
Glad it was helpful!
Great help! I am replacing wall outlets and see previous owner had 15amp outlets with a 20amp breaker. I bought what I saw which were 15amp outlets before I realized on a 20amp circuit. Nothing of higher voltage will be plugged in to these outlets so will go with the 15's. Thanks for your help
My pleasure, thanks!
My 1st thought was that this is backward. You'd think the code would say it's okay to use a 20A plug on a 15A circuit because it would be less of a failure point. But then I thought of it from the _user's_ perspective. If I see a 20A plug, I know I can plug in something that can draw 20A. But if I see a 15A plug, I know I can't use anything that will draw more than 15A. So, I guess that makes sense.
You could plug in something pulling 50 amps in a 15 amp circuit, it won't work because the breaker will trip, but have at it!
@@pbear216 Hey, just trying to make sense of why the code is the way it is. I know, it's a losing proposition, all too many times.
@@dienekes4364 From a code point of view a 50A circuit requires a different type of plug. While it is physically possible to wire a 50A load to an inadequate 15A plug, code doesn't allow it. If you follow the code then you are exactly right. A 20A load should be wired with a 20A plug so it can't be plugged into a 15A socket. A 15A load, wired with a 15A plug can be plugged into a 20A socket. Remember the electrical code has reasons for what is says to do and establishes the minimum standard, it is possible to exceed that minimum but it is foolish to go below it.
I have 15 amp and 20 amp circuits in my workshop. The 15 amp circuits have 15 amp receptacles and 20 amp circuits have 20 amp receptacles. My table saw, a planer and a MIG welder that can each draw up to 18 amps, so their cords are fitted with 20 amp plugs so that they can only plugged into the 20 amp receptacles. A 20 amp plug cannot be inserted into a 15 amp receptacle.
Dienekes: Fortunately a 20A appliance Plug will not fit into an 15A duplex receptacle. P.S. you are using the word plug when meaning the receptacle.
Thank you.
Sparky, are you scotty kilmers brother?
😂👍
Every time I hear him I think the same thing
@@truthbetold1855 sparky kilmer.
He doesn’t yell like Scotty though or has a Celica 😂
Thank you, Sparky!
My pleasure, thanks!
This was so helpful! Thank you so much!! 🙏🏻💪👍
My pleasure, thanks!
The real BS is that 20A and 15A receptacles are IDENTICAL. Tear one open. Every one I have had open has at least one and sometimes both metal contact 'sockets' as T slots, meaning the ONLY difference between most 120VAC, 240VAC, 15A, and 20A receptacles is the faceplate.
Yes, they’re to keep someone from plugging a 20A appliance into a 15A circuit.
Trick question because new code is 20A receptacles in Residential for new construction.
Code article please?
@@PeterTrimboli I don't remember specifically but it was taught in the code class. Also note, it is for new construction electrical as opposed to a service job.
@@taylorcompton7688 didn't get that in my code update class I'll try to find it when I get home
This is exactly the video I needed. My entire house has 20 amp wire to our outlets. Some room have 20amp receptacles and most have 15amp. In planning to change our receptacles from almond color to white I will keep the kitchen counter receptacles 20amp while making the living room and dining room ones 15amp. I don't know why the original electrician did that but that's my plan forward now knowing 15amp has a 20amp pass through rating.
Sounds good!
You can have more 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp line than if it was just a 15 amp line. Saves on circuit breaker runs to the room. Kitchen will typically only have 2 outlets per breaker because they are large power users like fridge and appliances.
Thank you, very informative video. I want to redo all the plugs in my garage to 20A. Will be installing a sub panel and redo all my wiring to a 20A rating. I wasn't sure if it was mandatory to install a 20a receptacle. P.S. Love the ending credits the view and especially the soundtrack "All my shuffling". Cheers
Thanks! You're the first to recognize the tune. :)
There's virtually no difference internally between a 15amp and a 20amp receptacle but they charge 3x the price for 20amp. There is a difference between residential grade and commercial grade receptacles and the extra cost is worth it for me.
"virtually" no difference, but you didn't state what the actual differences YOU think exist. A 20A receptacle actually allows for a NEMA 5-20P and, despite your claims, I can assure you that UL rated receptacles are not the same. This is like saying there is virtually no difference between 14 gauge and 12 gauge when the increase in cross-sectional area allows for 33% more safe ampacity in the 12 gauge. That cross-sectional area (kcmil or mm^2) needs to be 58% greater to safely gain the 33% increase in power. Read that again... 12 gauge is rated 133% ampacity of 14 gauge but has 158% the copper. 1/3 more is not "virtually" nothing. Same with a receptacle that is UL listed and properly designed.
Moreover, the 15A receptacles are designed to only accept 14 AWG with the stab connections... you literally cannot insert 12AWG. Arguably, this is a limitation of the quick-wire interface as they used to be available for 12 AWG, as well. Nonetheless, 15A receptacles of the builder quality are NOT a substitution for a quality NEMA 5-20R.
Stop passing bad information. I have seen the video where you got this information and it's wrong and dangerous. You couldn't possibly see the cross sectional increase in copper bar as cross-sectional increase is a function of both width and thickness.
Sparkman is the best! Give him thumbs up!
Woohoo! Thanks Joe and have a great 4th!
Keep up the great education. Thank you.
Thanks so much Don!
Thanks Sparky!
I've heard it said by Mike Holt that they, (15A and 20 A), are built exactly the same inside, so it doesn't matter which one is used. One day when I have time I'll tear into each one to see. I just don't see why there would be a different rating if the conductors are the same. Am I missing something?
I was thinking the same about tearing them down for a look. One thing I noticed, as far as conductors, is that even the screws on the 20A look heavier to handle the larger gauge wire.
@@lelandlewis7207 Yes. Something doesn't seem right. Also, if a SINGLE recep is to installed in a 20A circuit, it MUST be a 20A recep. But a 15A duplex can be installed in the circuit and two devices can be plugged into it, each potentially with a 20A draw. That's a problem.
@@davidgagnon2849 yeah, I shook my head at that one too. I have seen other codes that don't seem logical, makes you wonder what they are thinking at times. 🙄
he mixed two different ratings there: there are 15 and 20 amp receptacles, in which (assuming both receptacles have screw terminals) the only difference is the thickness of the contacts for the plug. then there are regular and spec grade receptacles, in which the basic construction of a spec grade receptacle is built to survive more abuse.
@@davidgagnon2849 an appliance that can draw more than 15 amps is required to have a 20A plug. - so it can't be plugged into a 15A receptacle. the code also says that any circuit has to be sized adequately to carry the load it is going to be used for.
well I got schooled. I thought it had to be 20, but I guess you can save a little scratch if you know your exceptions. I agree with the recommendation though, going with the higher capacity.
Excellent logic IMO!
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you so much. You answered my question.
You are so welcome! New video today: How To Wire 3-Way Switches with Diagrams Included: ruclips.net/video/tkWhqMZiNvs/видео.html
I've been in the business for 38 years and I rarely install 20 amp receptacles in a residence except for where required by the NEC. Installing 20 amp receptacles is more expensive and a waste of money in my opinion because manufactures of blenders, toasters, circular saws, vacuum cleaners limit their amp draw to 12 A hence all is needed is a 15A plug. I think I've seen a 20 amp plug, not to be confused with an outlet maybe once in a residence in my 38 years. That was a high-end commercial type coffee machine.
Think about it. When have you seen a 20 amp plug used in a residence. I'm not talking about the air conditioning unit or a washing machine I'm talking about in the kitchen or wall outlets on a 20 amp circuit.
Why do electricians install 20 amp outlets in kitchens when no appliance pulls more than 12 A have a 15 amp plug on them. Because that's the way they've always done it.
I agree with everything you said. I've never seen a nema 5-20P until yesterday, a Thermador stovetop kitchen appliance installed installed in a residence. It has gas burners with an electric griddle in the center. The power rating is 1630 watts or 13.6 amps. I've heard that some exercise stairmasters have a 20 amp plug. However, these appliances require a dedicated circuit and a single 20 amp receptacle. It seems to me that the requirement to have a 20 amp duplex receptacle is non existent.
small stick and mig welders use 20 amp, same with old plasma cutter
The reason is that if a multi-wire run is made to the kitchen, then the duplex receptacle must be 20A since it will be phase-split.
This might be a design consideration where the owner doesn't want a large quad box but needs two 20A circuits. Multi-wire is common and if the branch is 20A, the receptacle must be 20A. Can't run a microwave and a toaster oven at the same time on a single 20A branch even though the both will have NEMA 5-15P connectors.
@@chrishayes5755 Never seen one with a NEMA 5-20P. My Hypertherm 380 plasma and my Lincoln MIG, both have NEMA 5-15P. That said, the Hypertherm performs much better on 240V than 120V even if on a 120V, 20A circuit.
could you install a washer dryer 2 in 1 unit with a 15 or do you need a 20 receptacle?
Isn't the 50 amp rated device will trip the breaker if it is used on 40 amp circuit , why the code allow that type of receptacle?
I was wondering the same thing.
Uk electrician. The regs protect the building. Like you said it will trip the circuit breaker. Not allowing conductors to overheat & be dangerous. If the circuit is regularly overloaded you would need to upgrade protective device & cable size.
I think its an exception because most welders use a 50a receptacle but dont draw nearly that current. My 200A TIG draws a max of 26A even though it uses a NEMA 6-50R.
Thank you very much for your helpful, I will check it out my outlets in the kitchen to make sure all are the right one if not I will install the right one ☝️
Glad it was helpful, thanks Victor!
Great video! I ran a 20 amp circuit to my garage. Used 3) 20amp outlets and 2) 15 amp outlets for LED lighting. After that I needed a few more 15amp outlets for garage door and convenience outlets. They are paralleled in at the main feed box that 12awg wire comes from the panal. My question is that okay or should I replace the the feed and ad a sub panel. Thanks for any input.
I believe the 15 amp receptacle....is actually rated higher that’s why they can be used in “kitchen circuits........it’s always better to spend the extra buck for outlets and switches ....stronger and won’t break as easily.......do not see any advantage in using 20 amp outlets if you use the better grade 15 amp......unless your appliance has the 20 amp plug.......
Black Pine
... the main point here is a 15 amp outlet still has a 20 amp pass-through so ok on a 20 amp circuit in most cases.
rupe53 My neighbor pulled out all his 15 amp outlets in his kitchen and dinning area.....and replaced them with 20 amp outlets.......believing his outlets would be burning up......because the breaker was 20 amp.......
@@blackpine6693 ... maybe some people need educating? I don't think you will find too many UL approved portable appliances rated over 1500 watts / 12.5 amps. The only common one I can think of is a hair drier at 1800 watts, and you probably wont be using that in a kitchen. Heck, even a 4 slice toaster is under 1000 watts and so are most counter top microwaves these days. Of course newer code is changing things and often asking for multiple circuits at the kitchen counter and another for the fridge. OTOH, I can recall a time when it was common to have a single circuit for an entire floor in a home (30 amp service @ 120 volts) and then it became 2 circuits per floor. (60 amp service @ 240 volts)
Why does the code allow a 50 amp receptacle on a 40 amp circuit?
the receptacle can handle 50amp, it cannot overload on 40 amp. though the 15 only on 15 amp circuit not one that can handle does confuse me, i don't understand why it is like that
You can use a 50 amp receptacle on a 40 amp circuit because the receptacle is over rated for the amperage. The 40 amp circuit breaker will still trip if the amperage draw exceeds 40 amps.
My house is 1957 vintage and the house was wired with 20 amp glass fuses for the Living Room, Bedrooms, Garage etc. I used 15 amp outlets when I replaced the old worn out ones in the rooms where I knew that the heaviest load that I was going to plug in is an upright vacuum. I used 20 amp outlets in the areas like the garage where I knew that I would be plugging in things like skill saws, etc.
Smart! Sounds like a nice house!
20A??? 1957 - you better check your wire gauge in the fuse panel... Doesn't sound right (but possible).
Someone may have overfused you house due to too many blown fuses. Most '57 houses I work in have 15A to the bedrooms (14ga wire), and only have 20A to the kitchen and 1 required dining room area outlet on 20A, 12ga wire.
Are they Edison fuses? (bases like a light bulb?). other type you could have are 'Fustats', with a fine ceramic threaded base. Edison fuses can fit the wrong size fuse (actually will fit ANY size fuse, right or wrong). A Fustat will ONLY fit the right amperage fuse, at least without extreme effort to force the wrong fuse (wrong thread) into the wrong hole...
I STRONGLY recommend checking if the wire gauge in the fusebox, for those fuses, is 14ga or 12ga! Unless you already know they are correct. 14ga=15A MAX, 12ga=20A.
You could have a house fire if they are overfused.
@@troubleshooter1975 I had the fuse panel replaced. The wires are the proper gauge. I can hardly bend the wires back into a work box after replacing an outlet
@@bobdadruma OK - as long as you're sure the wires are 12ga. I am puzzled when you say you had panel put in, and yet you still have glass fuses... I assume this was long ago? (like 50 years ago?).
OK, maybe I misunderstood, I'm guessing you meant it 'had' glass fuses, until the panel was replaced...
There is often identifying gauge markings on older THN wire in conduit, or on Romex jacket.
I saw this clever trick I had not heard of before, on a RUclips [I forget who to give credit to].
Compare wire thickness to a nickle or a dime, 12ga close to nickle, 14ga close to a dime.
I am going to try this, and see if it's accurate enough, then suggest a new way to-
Ah, I looked it up, looks like a quarter is closer to 14ga than a dime is...
quarter = slightly thicker than 14ga. (by ~0.1mm)
nickle = slightly thinner than 12ga. (by ~0.1mm)
My new version of this trick then is to use TWO each of quarters and nickles, and make these 'sandwiches':
Sandwich a nickle off-center between two quarters (or anything) such that the quarters extend over the edge of the nickle, making a groove.
A 12ga won't fit in the groove.
Now, reverse the 'sandwich' to check for 14ga.
Sandwich a quarter off-center between two nickles (or anything) such that the nickles extend over the edge of the quarter, making a groove.
A 14ga will fit in the groove.
Good luck and be safe!
@@troubleshooter1975 the glass fuse panel was replaced recently when a solar system was installed on the house
"The Scotty Kilmer of the sparky world"! I was thinking the same thing! 🤣🤣🤣
LOL!
Can you mix receptacles on the same 20A circuit? Meaning, some 15A receptacles and some 20A receptacles on the same circuit?
Yes, as long as the circuit is 20 amps and the receptacles are duplex type (most common).
yes
yes but how many 20Arecept can be used on a 20A circuit at the same time?
If you have 2 appliances with actual 20 amp plugs, then the answer is no. Likely, they will each require 13 to 15 amps, so the breaker should trip. That's why these appliances require a dedicated circuit with a single 20 amp receptacle. A duplex receptacle is not allowed in this case. Obviously, you could have a duplex receptacle, but be mindful that only one socket should be used at a time. 20 amp power cords are pretty rare.
There is no explicit limit in the code as to how many receptacles can be on the same circuit.
Buy commercial grade receptacles and you'll never have to worry about them again. Commercial grade uses beefier clamp type back wire connections instead of the crappy push-in style found on residential grade. More importantly, commercial grade can use either 14 or 12 gauge wire and they have double wiper contacts. Specification grade is typically somewhere between residential and commercial grade and doesn't always have the double wiper contacts.
Very interesting, that is quite different that the code in Canada. I've always seen only 15A receptacles on 15A circuits and 20A t-slot receptacles on 20A circuits in residential here. Although we don't see too many 20A circuits in residential other then kitchen counter receptacles.
Probably has more to do with builders saving a couple dollars than safety.
This guy is wrong; he is comparing a 20a COMMERCIAL grade receptacle, to a 15A STANDARD grade receptacle!
That metal strap on the back is what commercial grade outlets have, and yes, they are 'beefier'.
They make 15A COMMERCIAL grade outlets too!
It is not a fair comparison to say to use 20A because they are heavier duty, when he is comparing two differently rated duty outlets. Apples and Oranges...
That being said, I agree with him that commercial grade is better than standard or residential grades...
I just object to the way he presents some of the comparisons, and some of the statements he makes.
In deference, he does say he is comparing commercial grade, and residential or standard grade, but he implies that all 15A outlets you get will be standard grade...
There would be nothing wrong with wiring your home with 15A commercial grade receptacles IMO.
A 15A commercial grade outlet should be just as robust as 20A commercial grade outlets.
(FYI code calls outlets, "receptacles" to be proper.)
Personally, I don't have a problem with standard grade outlets either, for most home locations; where plugging and unplugging is very infrequent. Commercial is better for in a workshop or garage area, or outlets in the open where a vacuum will always be plugging and unplugging (or kitchen counter area).
In a bedroom or office, behind furniture, etc, I just use standard. Lasts me many many years...
You know your own habits...
If you redecorate and move furniture every year and change TVs and all, then maybe commercial will be a better choice for the long term, for you...
studying for my c-10 exam on Monday, this was a question on my practice exam. Lots of fine lines in the NEC Holy Sh!t. But the ? in my practice exam: Receptacles installed on a 20 amp circuit can have an ampere rating of either 15 or 20. T or F ?
Answer is True. The way I understand it is: as long as its not a single Duplex receptacle. So 2 or more 15A receptacles on a 20A Branch Circuit is acceptable. Brain is sizzling
Sounds like you didn’t watch the video before you commented and started editing it
@@CyTaux What makes you say that? (just asking)
Yes I did view it in entirety. I objected to him implying that you should not use 15A outlets because they are lighter duty, when that is not strictly true. It depends on the grade, not the amperage.
Viewers new to electrical parts could easily miss this distinction.
Overall though, he was trying to recommend commercial grade receptacles for longer service life, and I agreed with that overall point of his video.
That is why I didn't want it to sound like I was dismissing his main point.
Mr KL
Thank you for this comment. I'm replacing all the outlets in our house and all of the uncertainty and opinions on receptacles has been confusing. Your explanation of which use cases should get higher grade receptacles makes complete sense.
If you use a 20 amp outlet or just a 20 amp circuit breaker on 15amp (14 gauge wiring) and you have an electrical fire, your insurance provider can hold you responsible and pay only a portion of the monetary claim you make.
Good point!
Nonsense. It is code compliant to use a single 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. If it's NEC compliant, the insurance company has no say in the matter. Stop passing on bad information... especially with the fear-and-dread fiduciary warning.
210.21 (B)(1), states a single receptacle installed on an individual circuit shall have an Ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.
Thank you Sir , helps a lot!
Most welcome!
Can you help me with a question? I want to add an outlet to my garage that will provide 3600 watts (2880 continuous) for tools, that is GFCI protected. Can you outline how this would be done? I know I could add two GFCI outlets side-by-side, and run two 12/2 wires from each outlet to their own 15a or 20a breakers, but is there a better way to do it? Thanks!
Can you use a 15amp switch in a 20amp circuit?
Yes. Code allows it. It is fine. What are you using the switch for? If you are drawing on the higher end of a 20 amp circuit definitely use a 20 but for general purposes a 15 amp switch is fine.
@@CC-jv3wm 2 gang light switch; 1 switch for porch light, 2nd switch for living room receptacle.
Thank you.
Yes. A 15 amp switch that is UL rated or CSA certified is manufactured to handle 20 amps.
I doubt in residential applications you will ever use an 20 amp male cord and plug
In our neck of the woods the code says an electrical outlet within 1M of water must be protected by a GFI. A GFI socket is much less expensive than a GFI circuit breaker. In kitchens the 15A duplex sockets are supposed to be split ( separate 15A circuits ) and no two adjacent duplex sockets can be on the same circuits, to a maximum of two sockets per circuit. 20A circuits don't have to be split but the adjacent rule still applies.
This means that if you want two duplex sockets on either side of the sink you can either:
1. Have two 20A Duplex GFI sockets, each duplex socket on its own separate circuit; or
2. Two 15A Duplex split sockets with each separate socket on a separate circuit with a breaker panel GFI. Thats a total of 4 circuits and 4 GFI breakers.
Option 1 is less expensive than option 2. Its also more convenient, if the GFI is tripped you don't have to go down to the breaker panel.
True, except some of us have home workshops and garage equipment that suck high amperage.
Awesome video thank you
Very welcome,, thanks!
Thank you for this, I was taught via tribal knowledge that indoor receptacles should always be 15A even though my Panel Breakers are tied to 20A.
Thanks!
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@Everett Guillermo Instablaster =)
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What happens if i run a 12.5 amp heater all day on a 15 amp outlet connected to a 20 amp circuit 🤔 will my 15 amp outlet burn out? How many amps can a 15 amp outlet actually handle?
If your heater needed 20a, it would have a 20a cord cap.
I can tell you first hand. Nothing will happen. I am running two 12.5 Amp heater to heat my home right now. Both are on a 15amp outlet with a 20amp afci/gfci breaker.
I'm a licensed electrician. Don't put a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit. Don't do it. Here's why. If you should use an appliance like a small heater or Christmas lights that draw real close to 20a but not over and run those items for hours on end it wont trip the breaker but most likely it will melt down the receptacle and can start a fire. I have seen it happen. I don't care what the code book says, don't do it. Those cheap, wimpy 15a receptacles just aren't built to handle close to 20a. Check with your homeowner's insurance policy and see if it covers a DIY electrical fire.
is there a reason you cannot use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit? is it because of those specific types of plugs?
I love it! I'm always putting 20A receptacles on 20A circuits. Excellent!
@@gtb81. Well it's safe but misleading since some appliances have the perpendicular plug to prevent the unit from being plugged into a 15a receptacle. As soon as it is energized it will trip the 15a breaker. One more reason to match the receptacle to the circuit. Also, NEVER, EVER put a 20a circuit breaker on a 15a wire circuit. You could cause a fire inside the walls. Not good!
Oh ok, i suppose that makes sense, i hadn't thought about that, i am not licensed yet so i am still learning some of the odd bits.
I ran 12 gauge wire for my home workshop plugs on a 20amp breaker. The larger tools run close to 15 amps and I didn’t want the breaker tripping if a piece of wood bound up a bit. I did use regular outlets, so should i just upgrade them to 20 amp outlets?
Great Advise Sir !
Thanks!
A spec grade 15 amp receptacle works just as well as any 20 amp receptacle, and costs half the money.. Outside of 210.21(B)1, the only thing that requires a 20 amp receptacle is a load that draws more than 1875 watts (the rating of a 15 amp receptacle). The attachment plug will have a horizontal neutral prong, a NEMA specification to prevent overloading a 15 amp circuit. I have never seen a residential appliance that has this type of plug.
It's a good idea to use spec grade/ heavy duty 15 amp receptacles for areas like the kitchen,, garage, or laundry room, as well as where things are plugged and unplugged frequently.. A heavy duty 20 amp receptacle costs double a heavy duty 15 amp, with literally the only difference being the presence of the t-shaped slot on the face. For ease of manufacturing, manufacturers use the same insides on 15 and 20 amp receptacles, including the contacts. Open a heavy duty 15 amp receptacle and you will see the contacts for a 20 amp receptacle.
In summary, heavy duty 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles are identical under the face plate, making the 20 amp receptacle a waste of money in residential applications.
Thanks!
I see many homeowner changes in my capacity of Home Inspector. Typically they go to the big box store and not a clue…..
Can I use 15a switch to power lights on a 20a circuit?
Yes. It should say right on the switch: 15/20 amp
@@SparkyChannelthank you I've learned alot with your videos
So they're heavy duty?
Yes, Spec Grade devices are heavy-duty.
About 10 years ago I remodeled my kitchen myself but pulled a city permit and had it all inspected by city electrical inspector. Used 15a receptacles on 20 amp kitchen counter circuit (#12 wire 20a breaker). Last year one of the receptacles caught fire, had an older stand-alone microwave plugged into it, the circuit breaker and GFCI never tripped.
That sounds more like just crappy receptacle...
@@Ryarios or a loose connection at the receptacle or the micro wasn't plugged in good.
@Mike I thought a gfci would trip if over loaded. Maybe I don't know the difference between gfci and gfi. Can you explain?
@@dianecelento4974 not an expert, just been looking this stuff up for about a month
but as far as I know ground fault circuit breakers break the circuit when there's electrical leakage to the ground (such as when water enters the outlet)
while arc fault circuit breakers break the circuit when there's an electrical arc (sparking from conductors making contact), which is most likely what caused the fire
and gfi looks like it's just a shortened acronym for gfci
@@kh8655 Thanks for the response. Seems scary that he had a fire even when he did everything right. Used city inspector and all. I would have thought the little button on the gfce would have tripped and prevented the fire.
Great video!👍👍😜
Over the years, the non-spec grade outlets have been getting cheesier. I will no longer use the cheap outlets.
Yeah I don't care about the 15a or 20a rating, it's the premium or spec. grade that makes it better. Lots of cheap 20a outlets there
I just replaced 2 outlets. One i put a spec grade and the other i put residential grade.
The residential grade outlet is already getting loose on the pins.
For a different of a couple bucks id say its worth it to only use spec grade
I keep it simple. Match the receptacle with the breaker rating. Period.
Agreed. For the pennies extra that a 20 costs over a 15... why would you not?
Those two receptacles don’t look like they are from the same brand and series. I like Eagle (now Eaton) spec grade outlets. The 15A and 20A appear to be identical except for accepting the special pin on the 20A. I bought some 20A versions not because I need them for 20A plugs, but because they were less expensive. Sometimes price is determined just by demand and supply rather than anything else.
Sparky
Can you give a lesson on use of combo outlets / receptacles like NEMA 6-20/5-20 Hubbell / Leviton I always or quite often get comments like you can only use one receptacle on a circuits. it is a basic 20 amp circuit. It just uses a GFCI breaker and 12-3 with ground like any other 20 amp circuit. A lot of kitchens have 240 deep fat fryers and toaster and need 240..
Don't exceed the rating of the breaker by 80%. 12 Amps for a 15 or 16 Amps for a 20.
Correct, thanks!
The amperage rating of a receptacle and the wiring has a designed safety margin
@@wallacegrommet9343 As does the entire NEC.
Depending on what type of load you have. For continuous loads, you need to size the breaker at 125% of the load to reduce nuisance tripping.
@@damion1121 More to reduce heating.
A simple question with a simple answer finally. Always use the 20a. Electricity is not the place to save a few pennies. Qudos.
Right on! That's my philosophy.
Using a 20 amp receptacle is a waste of money unless you have a plug that can only be plugged into a 20 amp. The only difference between a 15 and 20 amp receptacle is the cover
The most important difference between a 15A and 20A receptacle is that the 20A receptacle allows someone to plug in an appliance where one prong is sideways. I have a microwave that draws 16A. Its plug has the one prong sideways, so as to prevent people from plugging it into a 15A circuit. If the breaker is 15A, you should definitely NOT use 20A receptacle(s) on the circuit.
There are 16, 18, etc.. amp appliances, power tools, and so on .. that have the regular Nema 1-15p or 5-15p plug
@@kalijasin That's what you call botch work
Great video. What about light switches, 15 vs 20 AMP? Does it make a difference and when should you use 20 vs 15 AMP?
Thanks i wondered about that. 👍
Excellent!
Remember NEC code is minimum standards. Not a how to book.
Good point, thanks!
so does the ground hole go up or down???
Sideways.... 😬
Doesn't matter. I personally like putting the ground down since 90% of 90 degree cord connectors work best with ground down. That way, the wire isn't stressed like a candy cane if ground up.
@@spockmcoyissmart961 i have those cord that are both ways. a real PITA. the code doesnt specify nor is there a standard that i can find
@@richardcranium5839 There is no 'code' way. I install them down for the cord reason. I know there are others, but the majority I've worked with use ground down. Now to throw a curve ball, now I'm seeing some that are like a 45 degree angle.
@@richardcranium5839 ... you can't find it because there is no national code on that, although it may be a local code in a few places.
Dear Bob, if that when the fact, then using the same table 210.21.B 3 you could plug a 50 amp appliance to a 40 amp circuit. When in the wall there is no real difference between a 15 amp and a 20 Amp receptacle. To ver size a circuit components in reference to the breaker is a very common thing, as a matter of fact with the wires is very common, if you have a long distance between the Breaker and the load. In any case if you do what you say and connecta 20 amp appliance in the 15 amp breaker circuit, the breaker will trip and no harm done.
Also it has a 20 amp circuit that had multiple of outlets I would use a 15 amp device cuz I feel with Overkill to use a 20-amp device when it's going to be split up by multiple Outlets
This is something I disagree with the code on, not you Sparky, the code is flawed. Had to replace many 15a receptacles on a 20a branch circuit, I view it as a fire hazard. Also 15a receptacles on 15a branch circuit as well.
Should be allowed to use a larger rated receptacle on a lower amperage branch circuit. The location that I've had to change the most is on space heaters, oh how I loathe those things.
Note: in the past those that were on the panel pushed to have the code changed for their own monetary gains instead of safety, I am thankful an engineer can over rule the code in many instances.
Yeah I’ve had to replace many 15amp receptacles because they couldn’t handle the load. I work in homes mostly, if its a single appliance outlet, like for a microwave or fridge, I’ll use a 20 but if its countertops I’ll cheap out and use 15’s. But i also pigtail and splice through. I don’t trust the back stabs or even using the screws for splicing. And even if it says 20amp pass through i don’t trust that either. I’ve seen burnt up outlets from that regularly.
Once had a whole apartment where we had to change out all the outlets AND the panel because the tenants didn’t call the landlord to tell them that the wall mounted heat pump didn’t work. They used heaters though out the apartment instead... for years! Wires were all as hard as month old spaghetti and brown. The breakers and buses where falling apart just trying to remove them from the panel. All code. Exempt maybe for the way the tenants used the heaters.
Installing 20-amp receptacles on a 15 amp circuit is a terrible idea. It's better to go with spec-grade devices and wire them properly (NEVER use the backstab option) than to install 20-amp devices on a 15amp circuit.
Jason ... the reason NOT to use a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit is the pin configuration will now allow a 20 amp only style plug to be inserted.. Yeah, it will probably be ok for short runs and blow the breaker on an overload, but it can also allow the wire to overheat as well. Better to stick with a commercial grade 15 amp duplex and call it a day. At least that will keep the idiots from plugging in heavy draw items.
Well your wrong,you're opinion is based on emotion and not knowledge and you should leave this work to professionals. You shouldn't even be allowed to own a watch battery.
@@lloydmills9619 now that's funny
Scotty Kilmer is that you?
No, I'm much more handsome. LOL!
Sparky isn't as mad as hell.
Awesome Thank you very much
You are very welcome!
What are some appliances that require the 20A plug configuration (left prong is positioned horizontally)? I installed a receptacle on my front porch and went with a 20A receptacle configuration (12/2 Gauge circuit with 20A breaker) because I wanted to ensure I can use all types of power tools on my porch but I have yet to encounter a tool that has that configuration.
Had an air compressor that needed a 20amp receptacle
I believe that there were some, although rare, applications where a 20 amp plug was used, but in modern equipment it seems non existent. A 30 amp circuit is a safer option for equipment using more than 16 amps contuous load.
Doesn't matter. 15 and 20 Amp receptacle is same internally. There is no reason to use a 20 Amp. Unless it is single receptacle with single 20 Amp appliance with 20 Amp chord end.
Probably true for most brands of receptacle, but in this video he shows the internals are different in the ones he demonstrates. If you really want an overbuilt circuit then spec rated 20A receptacles are probably a bit safer.
@@robertm5969 Patrick is correct. Bill is comparing a residential grade to a specification grade. You can get a 15 amp specification grade, no problem.
Only true for cheap receptacles.
That makes no sense to me you can plug two appliances into a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker and you can only plug in one Appliance on a single receptacle it should be the other way around best thing to do if you got a 20 amp circuit to use 20 amp receptacles but they cost a lot more and why is there so many grades that's another thing that makes no sense
I asked the very same question. It sure seems counterintuitive and if you reason it out it sure seems bass ackwards. Sparky? Explain please.
If you have an appliance that you use regularly that draws over 15 amps you should probably have a dedicated circuit for it. I did that with my dishwasher and garbage disposal. Both draw 10 amps. Both got their own circuits. Now in my garage I have a drill press that draws over 15 amps but it's not used often and when it is it's not like I have much more than the lights and a radio going at the same time.
The electrical system in your house isn't a perfect science. It's not designed for every outlet to be used to it's fullest at all times. Just making a rough guess here I'd say that the average person only uses about 15-20 percent of their receptacles capacity at any given time. I mean think about it. In any given room how many outlets actually have something plugged into them? How many are actually being used at any given time? And how many are anywhere near the maximum capacity of that outlet?
This is where the breaker come in. If you do go over that capacity it flips the breaker as a fail safe. If it does it once or twice it's no big deal. If it starts to do it on a regular basis then it's time to start thinking about what's on the circuit and why it's drawing so many amps. Maybe something needs a dedicated circuit maybe not use the griddle at the same time you're using your toaster oven or microwave. Items that create heat are the biggest drawers of amps. Griddles, toasters, curing irons, hair dryers. This is why an electric stove or electric dryer uses 220 volt circuits. This is also why kitchens are the biggest drawers of amps in the house. Bathrooms maybe but seldom is more than a hair dryer and a curling iron and a light ever used at one time.
Can we use a dual 20 amp receptacle for a single 12 G 20 amp circuit.. I am planning to connect split AC 110v to inside outlet replacing with 20 amp receptacle pls suggest
20 amp breaker and I have a 15 amp GFCI so I’m good. Thank you! Very helpful!
Glad it helped!