Why Do Outlets Have Different Types of Holes?
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2024
- As electricians, we are called upon to install (among other things) many different types of receptacles to give our clients something to plug their equipment into. But why do the receptacles look so different from one another. In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin dives into this topic to give our followers answers to their questions.
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Let’s start with the standard 120v receptacle. A standard 15a receptacle has 2 vertical slots (one each for the hot and neutral) and a dome-shaped for the ground, while the 20a receptacle looks almost identical but the neutral slot also has a horizontal opening. The reasoning is rather simple. If you had a piece of equipment that draws 15 amps, you can plug it into either a 15a or a 20a receptacle, as the receptacle is rated for it. If you had a piece of equipment that draws 20a, you can only plug it into a device rated for 20a otherwise it could potentially melt, as it draws a higher amperage than the device is good, for and start a fire. Something to consider, especially in the fall/winter months, is to be mindful of plugging in smaller temporary space heaters and overloading your circuitry. If you have a string of 15a devices wired to 20a breakers, its very easy to exceed the receptacles ratings and run the risk of a fire.
Another question is why are some of the slots on a receptacle larger than the others? If you are looking at the face of a standard 15a receptacle, you will immediately see that the left (neutral) slot is a bit larger than the right (hot). This is done so that you only plug the cord in, as intended, and provide whatever you are plugging in the proper polarity to each pole. In other words, it is meant for you to plug your equipment neutral into the neutral slot and the hot into the hot slot. By the neutral slot being bigger, it simply will not fit into the smaller hot slot. If the equipment is not affected by polarity or has a ground prong (so it can only be plugged in one way) the blades will be the same.
A single (or simplex receptacle) has only 1 spot to plug something into it. This would be for something that draws close to the circuit’s ampacity (like a chest freezer for example) or maybe something that you don’t want to share circuitry with (like sensitive electronics). A duplex receptacle, however, is the standard receptacle we see and use for most applications. This device has 2 places to plug into on the same yoke. If you were to place 2 duplex receptacles in the same box, you would consider that a quad, and would have 4 places to plug something into.
Device shape is also something to consider when installing receptacles. Standard or Decora? Standard receptacles are the normal ones we are used to seeing where the face of the receptacle takes on a rounder appearance with each place to plug into looking individual, while the Decora type receptacles are a single looking device with a pronounced square shape. Decora type devices not only look a bit nicer, but they also carry the added benefit of having the same type of plate for ALL the Decora switches, receptacles, GFCI’s, Etc.
The last part for Dustin to dive into is the 250v type receptacles. These would be the larger receptacles you would find in your home for the dryer or range (among others, but those being most common). They look considerably larger as they are rated to carry more amperage and voltage than our standard receptacles, but they are constructed similar, in that they have different slots that do not allow you to plug something into a device that it isn’t rated for.
#electrician #electrical #electricity
0:51 - Examples of Receptacle's
2:28 - Chord examples - Polarity
3:43 - Receptacle types
4:40 - 250 V Receptacles
6:30 NEMA Plug Diagram
Great explanations, it helps the less informed!
On polarity question: Yes it does matter for something as ubiquitous as an lamp with an edison socket. On the bulb, the neutral is connected to the metal spiral piece and the hot connection at the bottom tip. If its properly wired, then until its all the way in, there is no hot connection. But if the polarity is reversed, then the exposed spiral metal is energized as soon as you start screwing it in -- and you could easily touch that metal getting a nasty 120V shock.
Same for old electronics like guitar amps that have the chassis tied directly to neutral. If the wires were reversed, the grounding conductor of the guitar plugged into the amp, and thus the guitar itself would be tied directly to hot.
Some older toasters too. They switch the hot and assume the neutral is grounded. I think newer appliances have to switch both conductors but the polarity can definitely matter in 2 pin plugs!
@@benchociej2435 interesting. Always figured that's why new toasters have polarized plugs. But switching both conductors definitely improves safety because you can never assume the receptacle is wired properly. Appliances with Calrod or quartz heating elements like toaster ovens pose less of a danger but correct polarity should always be respected regardless.
Hey Dustin you sounded as if you were under the weather.But thanks again for explaining those electrical receptacles,which most didn't know, but you just educate so many of us.
Dustin, just a big thank you for all your videos. You've been a big help to me and I appreciate you brother.
Good info. One thing you might add, regarding the 15 and 20 amp, 125 volt receptacles, is Code does allow either 15 or 20 amp devices on 20 amp circuit as long as there is more than one receptacle on the circuit (a duplex counts as two) however, 20 amp devices shall not be installed on a 15 amp circuit. 30 amp receptacle shall be used on a 30 amp circuit. 50 amp receptacles shall be installed on a 40 or 50 amp circuit (such as for an electric range) 60 amp receptacle shall be installed on a 60 amp circuit.
@Kyle regarding 15 amp duplex on a 20 amp breaker...I searched for this comment so as not have to make it, that is exactly right.
Great point.
Thank you.
For me, who doesn't understand electricity, but this is a good work
Great presentation Dustin!
Hey Dustin,when you’re taking about the 15A v the 20A receptacles you really need to let the people know that for 20A the supply wire needs to be 12 gauge,15A is 14 gauge wire. 20A fuses/breakers wired to 14 gauge you’re asking for trouble.
In my 50 year carrer other then some large window AC units never saw an appliance with a 20 amp male plug so don't waste your $ on 20 amp 125 volt receptacles.
I think he mentioned this in not so many words.
I had a house where the previous homeowner replaced the 15 amp breakers with 20 amp breakers. He reversed polarity on a lot of the receptacles, and switched the cold on many lights during his "remodel". He buried splices and likely broke every other code. Fixing that place was hell.
I was scared to death of electrical fires from issues I didn't catch and that my fire insurance wouldn't cover it because of being under code.
Slight clarification. A 15 amp circuit can use either 12 or 14 gauge wire.
So can I use a 15 amp receptacle on a 20amp circuit if your I’m not needing the 20amp appliance feature? Also, would there be improved efficiency by running 12 versus 14awg? I would rather just overbuild the wiring if there are noticeable positives.this will be for a yurt off grid that will running off solar.
John Schneider: not always though..factors like ambient temperature or conduit fill can change the needed wire gauge..
Great video Dustin very interesting and great information!!
It wasn't all that long ago that we had 2 types of plugs for electric stoves and electric dryers. In the old days they had 3 prong plugs. They had a bonding strap in the appliance that bridged the neutral and ground together between the screw terminals. Now they have plugs with 4 prongs on them so now these appliances can separate the neutral and ground in them. In a lot of the older homes they still have the 3 prong plugs and a lot of these older homes only had 3 wires for these appliances. They don't have the ground wire to the plug. This is why when you buy new appliances like electric stoves and dryers, you need to know which type your old dryer or stove have. If you do upgrade to the 4 prong plug, that is why you need to remove the bonding strap between the neutral and ground lugs. This separates the neutral and ground so the 4 prong plug works properly.
Hey Dustin ,
How ya doing ? Thank you for all the great videos that you produce.
You provide a great amount of knowledge and information . I also appreciate that you share and integrate the NEC book with us in
or we could have the same problem with the fixture that we did with the lamp , so just be aware and careful . I apologize for the long explanations. Thank you for caring Dustin and for sharing your time and your knowledge with us. Take care and stay safe !
your vast knowledge
Thanks Dustin , I Thank you and my younglings thank you . we always use your content in our training, They need every break they can get. God Bless
Great to hear!
Thanks much for the info.
Thank you Dustin!!!
It's my understanding that a key reason for polarized plugs is that it ensures that the device switch switches the live, rather than the neutral. That way, anything on the load side of the switch is at neutral (and so approximately ground), rather than at the live voltage.
It's not just to make it easier for the electricians.
Exactly - and the fuse. Some sockets (screw in lightbulbs) also use neutral for the shell and hot for the switched center contact - it's a lot safer for the most common insulation fault.
Yes and so that metal parts on certain stuff aren't just sitting there live all the time ready to give ya a zap. You flip the switch and cut off the hot connection.
@@jameswyatt1304 NEC 200.10. (C).
@@jameswyatt1304 It was mainly created so people wouldn't get shocked when changing out bulbs in lamps. The shell is easy to touch by accident when replacing bulbs, so the plug being polarized means the shell isn't hot (unless the receptacle is wired in reverse polarity).
I was fixing to ask why polarizing the plugs would be important if the way ac current worked made it pointless but making sure you can handle stuff safer like having the switch cut off the fixture so that essentially it disconnects the power coming in before it gets to fixture vs disconnecting after the fact and having a live little bit somewhere waiting to be grounded by accident
Good info 👍👍👍 ...Thx ...
Cool! Learn things i didnt know I needed to 😄
Dustin I love that information!
Should mention 20 amp receptacles require 12 gauge wire...most DYI people won't know this. Sorry had to mention it as a maintenance electrician at a university campus...I see so many variations of outlets because of overseas scientific equipment our lab tecks buy. Up to us to make it work...😬😬. Love the videos, you know your shit..keep it up..
Hey I’ve been watching your videos for a while now and I’m an 3 year electrical apprentice I’ve learned more on the internet than ever out in the field and I think your channel is definitely growing from younger viewers mostly and I’ve got several questions that I think would definitely help younger guys so I would love to give you some suggestions so where could I contact you at sir Dustin 😂
Our discord server is the best place to interact with us (and other electricians), we are pretty active there and would love to have you join us: discord.com/invite/7ykYfbh
Trades people know this but there are multiple small pocket reference guides on the market which include NEMA configuration charts in them so you can choose the right receptacle for the application. My favorite is the UGLY book which contains code references and basic how to's as well, for home owners and craftsmen alike! There are tons of free reference materials on the old interweb as well. I work primarily overseas and world wide there are an insane amount different devices and equipment. I have given these guides to some Russian counterparts for reference if they find themselves dealing with American standards and devices like at US Embassies.
I like this guy. He speaks in very easy to understand language.
Good video man
I like installing decora for finishes for the simple fact it makes the count for cover plates easier
Although I am sticking with toggles due to my 1909 house already having them, I kind of like the decora switches because they seem to have a genius design: ever noticed how no matter how slow you flip them, they click? This is because instead of just pushing down on a metal rod inside like a toggle, which slows down the movement when you flip it slower, the decora is made entirely of springs and pivots, which always click on or off once the paddle is past the mid point. This prevents arcing, so they can last longer. Strangely, there was a time when they made the toggles this way, too! Unfortunately, those declined in popularity in the 70s because they were apparently “too loud.” (Just people finding issues with everyday objects that work perfectly fine, only to create a new issue.)
strangely I have found 4 way decora switches seem to have a higher fail rate than most other switches
Dustin can you please do a video on handle ties for breakers. Recently heard of a situation where a tankless water heater requires 3 240v circuits and what was ran was 2 25 amp breakers with a handle tie to act as a 240v 50amp set up. Ive seen it in existing older homes but this is new construction could you elaborate on your opinion and when this might be beneficial I cant think of a good reason to do this
Virtually all 15 Amp outlets are actually 20 Amp, with a different plastic cover. Try removing the plastic cover and you'll see. Also all 15 Amp receptacles are rated to pass 20 Amp through them, since you have two outlets, and it's legal to connect them to 20 Amp circuits (each outlet would take a portion of the current), the backbone of the receptacle is always rated for 20 Amp.
You only need 20 Amp receptacles if you want to "mark" the circuit as being 20 Amp, or if you have a 20 Amp device to plug in (very rare).
I was going to say the exact same thing, for example my treadmill has a horizontal and vertical pin, it requires a 20 amp circuit, you could not plug it into a 15 amp circuit unless it was mistakenly wired using a 20A outlet. I have GFCI which say 20A but only has vertical pins.
All 15 amp duplex receptacles are rated to have 20 amps passed through them. Dustin was incorrect.
The difference exists to physically prevent people from putting a 20 amp appliance on a 15 amp circuit.
I was wondering, since that's what I heard too, but he sounded pretty experienced with melted receptacle faces. Maybe those are just cheap crap receptacles...
@@rpavlik1
Cheap. Worn out recept or plug.
Outlets are tested for higher than rated.
20a are usually for special situations.. Like he said. Where a heater or equipment plugs into it. Floor buffers come to mind.
Proper use is often overlooked. With an available adapter. Oo look it fits now.
I have an adapter to run from 220v 20a to 110v cable.
If i plug that cable into most things... Those things will no longer work.
But my device is 220 and the adapter was easier and quicker to get than the correct cord. New cord ordered btw.
Fitting out an office in New York the variety of NEMA receptacles (and the inability of electricians to fit the ones specified on the plans) came close to driving me nuts! Since 1947 the UK has has fitted one single standard for domestic power. Anything over 16A we go to IEC 60309. Yes, others are possible; but they are vanishingly rare.
I am originally from Australia, and I find the Australian plugs way easier to insert into an electrical outlet with the slanted hot and neutral plug. If you only have a hot and neutral plug ( 2 wire ), you have to really look to see the correct polarity in a
I was watching your RUclips tutorial about the outlets. I really need to know if I have the 220 outlet and the kiln I bought needs 240 and I can’t plug it to the outlet for 220, I have that separate designated outlet. I now have to find a way to plug my used kiln that 240 plugged to this out let. Is there a converter I can use when I need to use my kiln and later I can use the outlet still for other thing I still need it for.
Hey Dustin! Would you consider doing a video on shore power for RVs?
You should talk about afci outlets sometime and if they are as good as afci breakers.
Btw I love your videos! They are very educational to a non electrician like myself. Someday I would love to get into the trade but Im 38 years old so probably too late.
Thanks my friend! Btw I don't think it's ever too late 💪⚡
Would have liked to see a 20 amp plug being you talked about the 20 amp receptacle.
Ever do a video about VFD’s and PLC’s and how they can be integrated to each other? We just wired an assembly line for high and low voltage control
One notable receptacle is the TT-30. This is a 120 volt receptacle! Looks like all the 250 volt ones. There have been many a RV with blown up electrical system because of people not paying close attention and ASSUMING it is a 250v receptacle.
@ElectricianU you ever look at the way they do electricity in England? I think its great an we here in the US should start adopting tons of what they do there.
Yea we call them quads or quad-plexes in California. Thank you for the video on the topic on receptacles.
I love watching the content. I have a question about if something can be done technically and safely. My father has a 240V welder in his shop, he wants to use it for a few projects he can’t move into his shop. Is there an extension cord for 240V 30A that is about 150ft? If there are, what caveats should he be aware of? If not, what other solutions could work?
You’re gonna want to order some S/O cord for that application. You’ll need a 12/4 so green black white red. Then you’ll have to buy the plugs for either side that corresponds to his welder.
Sorry 10/4 not 12
Please talk with some local electricians.
Your welder may fall under NEC 630 electric welders. In that section, the type of welder and it's duty cycle and more, play in to how many amps you need to supply it.
The length of your run may have the resistance of the wires Causing a voltage drop beyond the 3% in NEC 210.19. (A) in 3. If you simply move the recepticle.
And maybe their is an easy fix for this.
First, being 150-ft away, this is likely a separate structure and realistically either a sub-panel or separate service would be a better starting point.
For temporary use (rolling out the cord and rolling it up each time), generally speaking, you're not going to find a pre-made cord of sufficient length. Also making a cord of that length really needs to be engineered for purpose, including voltage drop calculations.
@@thomasbonse its the distance from the pannel in the shed to the driveway. thanks to our city the backfolow preventer for the lawn system is above ground so driving to the shed is not a option. At one time it was possible to park a truck, suv, etc or trailer next to the shed.
I'd like you to go a little more in-depth with the 240v receptacles. I know you said the 30A was for welders and the 50A is for stoves, but what about driers? I've seen both types (have had to swap out many-a-electrical cord to accommodate the different receptacles for driers and would really like to understand which one is better or know when I should swap out the receptacle if someone installed the wrong one.
That would be an interesting topic to bring up in our discord: discord.com/invite/7ykYfbh
Will u do a how to wire a new panel neatly.
Sort of. T slot receptacles aren't meant to just protect the receptacle in case the breaker doesn't trip. Breakers are actually meant to protect the conductor. If you put a continuous 20A on a 15A circuit you could potentially melt the entire wire and start a fire within the walls.
Thank you!
When is is appropriate to use 20 amp receptacles and 12/3 wire
VS
14/3 and 15 amp receptacles
Also
Are commercial quality receptacles worth the extra money? I always use them
You should do a video on electrical connectors/sockets for sub-600 volts.
IEC sockets please!!!!
😲😂😂🤦🏼♂️🤣🤣The Ending 👍🏽⚡️
Can you do a video on the generator plugs
hello Dustin I'm Utah and just help my cousin put some new outlet in kitchen and i came a cross the new gfci outlet that now has the line connection on top side of outlet and load on the bottom of outlet with the tape label cover over this idea totally change how we would normally do hook up outlet . i was dumb founded how the industriously would change this any thought on this if you seen these device so far yet
@ElectricianU You showed what you said was a 15a duplex receptacle and gave an example of 18 amps running through it and possibly burning it up. I remember where in a Mike Holt video, they stated that the guts inside of a 15A recep and a 20A recep are identical, meaning it is the same metal, thickness, etc. And they indicated that it didn't matter which was used, 15 or 20 amp. Can you speak to this? Or anyone else?
This is true AND people sometimes forget that the actual current is determined by the load and not the breaker or receptacle. You can put a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit safely because you can only plug 15a appliances into that outlet. Your 1500 watt heater doesn't suddenly grow an extra heating element and become an 2000 watt heater because you put in a 20a breaker.
I have never worked as an electrician per se, but I have a bit of experience dealing with electricity / electronics (often with much higher voltages than found in houses). I've worked on the wiring in houses that I've lived in over the years and have encountered many instances where the wiring is not what we would consider safe these days, especially in older houses which might have been originally built before the area even HAD electrical service. They often had the NEMA 1-15 outlets, so it was entirely possible to plug a lamp into an outlet and have a charge on the outer area of the bulb socket even with the switch turned off on the lamp. Even when the outlets had been replaced, it was not uncommon for either the ground wire to not be connected or IF connected, not be connected to a grounding rod at the meter... I even encountered 120V on ground once because a hot wire was touching the ground wire in one of the outlet boxes, but the building ground was not connected to a physical ground. That took a lot of unplugging of devices and disassembly of outlets to find that problem... And then there are the overhead lights where the switch was mistakenly wired on the neutral side instead of the hot side. Over the years, I basically determined if there is ANY way for something to wired incorrectly so that it will shock you, then SOMEONE will probably have done it and to assume everything you deal with to be hot.
Hey dustin, was wondering if someday can you explain about the phase-a-matic pam-300hd is a Phase converter. Hope you see this comment and reply back!!:)
Explain why ??? Your question is hard to understand the way you worded it 🤔
Phase conversion, phase-a-matic , for the conversion of 220v 1phase to 220v 3phase , allowing the use of 3phase equipment in or within a single phase dwelling/property.
Example : Heavy duty shop equipment.
@@FCES_Electrical_Sol my work had an alignment lift that went through motors yearly recently. The owners friend came and looked at it. Come to find out, we had an old transformer for a dyno for state inspections left behind. When the addition was done, we found we had 240 without issue but when we hit the button, one legged voltage dropped dramatically! The guy bypassed it and no issues since. The motor even sounds happier.
I just bought a rental house and the previous owner was an electrician. He had a South Bend lathe in his basement, this thing was huge with a 12 inch chuck and 5000 watt three phase motor! this guy literally climbed up the electric pole outside his house and ran lines from the main lines down the side of the pole and underground into his basement and stole three phase electric from the power company🤣
hello Dustin,
it is so good to know but there is so many
18 Amp space heater? I usually see 12 amps at 120 volt.
And then there's the obscure NEMA 10-20 "miniature crowfoot" configuration...
Do appliances with the horizonal neutral prong exist anymore? Every appliance I've ever seen that is designed to be used on a 20 amp circuit has two vertical prongs, so is the horizontal slot there for legacy reasons?
Yes they still exist but are super uncommon in a typical household. Some professional grade treadmills use this 20 amp plug. Another common use would be a commercial style toaster oven or expresso machine, like the kind you might find in a restaurant or Café.
Is it possible to have a video of how and why these receptacles have these certain layouts? Like why a plug has a wink or squinted eyes ?
1:46 yup, thats what i did when i discovered my whole house was on 12g wire. Dont exceed lengths to worry about voltage drop, so im all good. 20amps all the way!
Having polarized receptacles is important. Some vintage electrical equipment has the neutral attached to the chassis. Get it backwars the chassis will be hot with line voltage
Not sure if you did a video on this but a video of using metal boxes vs plastic and how bonding works would be helpful as I didn't find alot of information on it
He recently did a bonding and plastic boxes video, maybe a week or two ago
Check this one out: ruclips.net/video/d3jTZwxHp94/видео.html
the layout on the 30A receptacles is what the layout in New Zealand is. here the voltage is about 240V in general
You mentioned a space heater plugged into a 15A rated outlet drawing 18A. If the space heater is rated over 15A, how is it able to only use the prong configuration that will allow it to fit into a 15A rated receptacle? Shouldn’t it use the prong configuration for 20A?
That sounds like a manufacturing problem, if the cord/plug was original. In which case the product couldn't be UL certified. Alternatively, that could be the result of someone replacing the plug on an appliance with one not rated for the power requirements of the appliance/device to which it was attached.
I use that exact same space heater at work.. LOL
Thumbs up; a lot simpler for idiots like me ... than part 2 of that 'difficult' new meter video (which left me in the clouds)!
Kitchen circuits are normally 20 amp GFCI. Now my question is… why do you normally see 15amp receptacles in kitchen if they have a 20amp breaker for them. Is that ok. Will it pass inspection?
For the life of me, I've never seen an appliance or anything have the 20 amp blade pattern, even in industrial areas. I wonder if it's just too uncommon to find a 20 amp outlet so manufacturers tend not to use them- maybe they either de-rate the appliance to fit the 15 amp or upsize it to a 30 amp industrial outlet?
Better CK the code book on your explanation, you can put 15amp recept. on a 20amp breaker if there is more than one outlet.
Here's a history note. There's also the obscure NEMA 10-20R, classified as 20A 125/250V nongrounding, that resembles a NEMA 10-50R for ranges with the 3 wire cord, only smaller. Some window air conditioners from the circa 1950- mid 1970s had 120 and 240 volt components and used this plug.
The 20a 110v outlets are usually better built. Its all i install. Seen to many cheap 15a with various fails.
You should have tossed in there the 15a and 20a. 220v outlets in vid. :)
Can you legally pull 110v from a 220v 15a or 20a? Considering there is no neutral.
The one big caveat to this is tamper-resistant outlets. The 20a ones need a much larger shutter to cover the T-slot, which means the contacts have to be much further back and therefore don't hold plugs as well as 15a TR outlets. I definitely agree that 20a outlets should be installed on 20a circuits anywhere a TR outlet isn't required.
@@KingdaToro
I think i have TR 20a 's
They suck connecting until they wear in a bit.
If you use commercial (spec grade) 15A receptacles, the only difference is the cover. The insides are exactly the same as the 20A. I replaced all the receptacles in my home with commercial grade. 20A on the 20A circuits, and 15A on the 15A circuits with 14 GA wire. If I were ever to rewire the whole place, I'd use 12 gauge wire for everything.
@@KingdaToro I have the same issue with tamper resistant 15a outlets. My old outlets grab the plug tightly, while the new tamper resistant outlets slide in and out too easily.
I was once told that the polarized plug was a factor for the double insulated device which lacks the ground and specifically utilizes the neutral as it's ground (since the N is bonded to G in the circuit). This ensures polarity and thusly meets the rating as a double insulated device?
@jeremiah Ansell. Your understanding is partly correct. Double insulated tools absolutely are designed to isolate the hot to the switch thereby keeping the entire tool/device wiring at zero volts (neutral potential) when not in use. The part to understand more is that the tool/device is not grounded. It's not using the neutral for ground, it's designed without a ground. Double insulating it makes it safer to use without a ground than if the neutral was less insulated than the hot which is the case for various apparatus. Edit... Just to be clear... Neutral is never used for a ground. Yes, at the source of power ( technically Derived Source) the neutral and ground are bonded but that is only at the source. It's correct to say that Neutral is never used as a ground. I can explain it beyond this but it's alot to cover.
Total nonsense. Double insulated devices are not grounded. They do have them in Europe also.
Q. Can a GFCI and AFCI plug work without a Ground wire?
What is the correct way to orient a 120 v receptacle, ground up/blades down or ground down/blades up?
That's all preference. There's an argument to be made that ground up is a bit safer because if the plug were partially backed out of the receptacle, a metallic object could not easily fall in the gap and bridge the blades. Either orientation is acceptable though unless specified otherwise for that particular job.
Some guys like to put all normal receptacles with the ground down, but put the ground up on switched receptacles to make them stand out.
Any discussion on this subject degrades to an argument. No matter what anyone says, no one can cite a study.
@@Californians_go_home perfect solution
Need help guys, I’m a young guy. I’ve been applying to every apprenticeship possible. The problem is everybody wants 1 year experience. I have experience in the automotive industry, and I’ve done construction such as drywall, framing, roofing etc. I really want to get into the trade. But nobody will give me a chance. Any suggestions?
This might be a good question to ask in our Discord discord.com/invite/7ykYfbh
The round twist lock is for 220v, right?
No, they are also made for 120-volt receptacles each have their own NEMA number. which designates, 120, 240, 277, 480 volts. lots of twist locks for different applications.
Can’t wait to see how many people shock the FUCK out themselves from these videos.
Does that 3 prong 250v outlet have only 2 hots and 1 ground without neutral?
That's correct. Neutral is used for split phase 120v but 240v uses the entire phase and therefore no neutral. Neutral is the center tap on the transformer which divides the voltage in half.
The one he shows is a 10-30R with 240/120vac without a ground. line1, line2, and neutral. Older style, that is no longer allowed to be installed on new builds.(1996 code update I think). When the 10-30R is in use in homes, there are instructions on Dryers to bond the cabinet to neutral.
I am buying a dust collector that requires a NEMA 5-20R 20-amp outlet with a 25A circuit breaker. One of the prongs is horizontal. I have a dedicated 20 amp receptacle with a 20 amp breaker. Do you think having that would be enough? And what does NEMA mean? Thank you to anyone who can help
NEMA stands for National Electrical Manufacturers Association - which is the accredited body for setting most electrical standards in the US.
I'm curious if it's against code to put a 20A outlet on a circuit with a 15A breaker, because it might mislead someone into thinking that the circuit could handle 20A.
Yes, always. A 15A circuit can only have 15A outlets, a 20A circuit can have 15A and/or 20A outlets as long as it has multiple outlets. When a 20A circuit has only one outlet, it must be a 20A outlet.
Adam got it....NEC 210.21.(B) (3). &. Table 210.21. (B) (3).
@@keithharrington4595 I don't not agree. I believe that it is specifically stated that a 20 branch circuit may have 15 or 20 amp receptacles. This has been the subject of some debate but I believe that it is permitted as long as it is a general purpose circuit with more than one receptacle on it.
@@ianbutler1983 You can put any mixture of 15A and 20A receptacles on a 20A circuit. You probably wouldn't, because you usually standardize on 15A receptacles for the general purpose receptacles, and only put in 20A receptacles where necessary.
The reason you get to put 15A receptacles on 20A circuits is that they are rated to carry 20A between each other, even if they are only rated to deliver 15A to an individual plug. Manufacturers have standardized as much as possible, and if you disect the receptacles, you will find that 15A receptacles are just 20A receptacles with a plastic face piece that prevents plugging in a 20A plug.
@@KingdaToro if it is a single "bull's-eye" device then it has to a 20 amp device. If it is a duplex receptacle it can be 15 or 20 amp. Personally, if only one device on a 20 amp circuit I only use a 20 amp device.... But a 15 amp duplex is legal on a 20 amp circuit.
Question can a run my computer to 220v outlet?
All 15 amp duplex receptacles are rated to have 20 amps passed through them. This video is incorrect.
The difference exists to physically prevent people from putting a 20 amp appliance on a 15 amp circuit. If a space heater has a 15 amp plug and it is listed by an accrediting agency, then it can be plugged into a 15 amp receptacle. If it draws more, it must have a 20 amp plug. it can only start a fire if it:
1. Malfunctions
2. Someone plugs multiple space heaters into one circuit and the breaker fails to trip.
3. A space heater without a tip over sensor gets knocked over.
T-slots are NOT 20 amp receptacles. Do not make this common nomenclature mistake. A true 20 amp plug has perpendicularly oriented slots, that means one slot is vertical and the other slot is horizontal. On the other hand, a T-slot has 3 opening; it gives you the option of plugging a standard 15 amp plug into it, or a 20 amp plug. It is listed in the NEMA Chart as a 15/20 amp device, NOT as a 20 amp plug.
Do something on 3 phase
It really is not the socket that is the problem but if the socket is 15 A the breaker can also be and the wires can be thinner so a 20 A device could overload it. It would take some time for the breaker to trip. 20 A socket is allowed only if the circuit can handle it. A space heater can pull max 12.5 A (1500 W).
I use the square duplex receptacles as a downstream from a GFCI. Otherwise I use the round. This gives a clue to check the reset on the GFCI if the square receptacle goes out. It only takes once at losing power in a round receptacle without the knowledge of it being remote from a GFCI.
As that isn't a code requirement, the shape of the outlet doesn't actually give such an indication. The code-required labeling of gfci and afci outlets does, however, provide this indication. You know, those ugly stickers the homeowner will immediately remove...
@@thomasbonse ` At a pervious house I owned, someone wired the patio receptacle downstream from a bathroom GFCI that was half way across the house. I spent a whole day clicking off breakers trying to find the source power for the patio receptacle. It wasn't until I noticed the bathroom receptacle tripped that I got a clue.
When I remodeled the kitchen I replaced two GFCI with each having a downstream. I used the square to ID the circuits at a glance and round everywhere else.
Not code. A courtesy.
The two prong cord which is designed to maintain proper polarity does matter. The screw shell of a lamp holder has to be neutral for safety purposes. It is very easy to touch the metal of the screw shell when installing or uninstalling but more importantly the paper insulation around the screw shell on older lamps can decay and short circuit. I did a service call once where the entire apartments stamped metal ceiling was energized because the polarity on the kitchen counter receptacle that supplied almost the entire apartment had been reversed making the polarity reversed for everything upstream from it. An old ceiling fixture screw shell had deteriorated and leaned into the metal canopy of the fixture which was mounted to the metal ceiling. The ground was non-existent because the BX fitting was not tight. All you guys giving electrical advice need to be careful not to make statements that exceed your experience and knowledge. Your information is appealing, appreciated and useful BUT you all need to not start misinformation. Be sure of what you say. The polarity is DEADLY important. I hope you edit this video to correct where you basically said that it doesn't matter.... It certainly does matter. Electricity is invisible dynamite and needs to be used safely and to Code.
That 4 prong straight blade is not a 120 or 240-volt receptacle it is a 120& 240-volt receptacle.
Correct. It's got phase a, neutral, phase b, EGC. Whatever device can use the P to P or P to N for something like a dryer to run heating element on PtoP and control board P to N
Kinda bothered me when he said that. American Dryers need both 120 and 240. The timers/ computers/motors are ran off 120vac while the heating element is the only 240vac load.
Same for Ovens/Ranges in the States
220, 221, whatever it takes!
Bonus: the fatter prong helps keep the cord from being removed without a real tug.
That receptacle you said for welding showed in your chart as a rv receptacle. How can you use a 15 Amp receptacle on 20 amps when it is only rated for 15 amps, you'll overload that 15 amp receptacle and have a meltdown.
how about this, without googleing it what are the holes in the end of the prongs for?
I've seen people have 20 amp breakers, and 14/2 wire.... obviously a change due to tripping the breaker.... I'm actually amazed that these houses haven't burned down by now....btw....you CAN put a 15 AMP receptacle on a 20 amp breaker...as long as the wire is 12/2.. it's code.... would I recommend that? No
20A outlets can handle more heat than a 15A one.
I would use 20A on everything.
Save the 15A outlets for a dedicated line like for a refrigerator or clock.
As for space heaters, I have never seen one rated more than 1500 watts, though I have seen some advertised as higher, like 2000 watts, but they plug into a 240 volt receptacle, 15 or 20 amp, like you'd use for a large window air conditioner, but that's something you are not likely to be using in a family residence, except maybe your garage. Just saying.
Think he was referring too multiple ones plugged into on unfused Powerstrip. Only scenario which could overload the wall socket.
The Greenlee PVC oven (up to 2” PVC) comes with a 20 amp male cord body. Major PITA finding a 20 amp receptacle. Just sayin.
Did you mention that 20 amp and 15 amp receptacles can be used on 20 amp circuits? Thought that's what this video was going to be about.
Yep
Over pulling the current?
But wouldn’t a 20 amp space heater have a 20 amp plug? So it would not fit in a 15 amp outlet.
Some twenty Amp spec graded male plug will not enter a 15 Amp residential grade outlet. Usually found on small air compressors, etc,.
If the heater used more than about 1500 watts it would be equipped with a 20A plug, correct.
1500 watts at 120 volts is 12.5 amps which is the most that a single device with a 15A plug should use.
That being said, I have a welder which has a 15 Amp plug and yet is rated to use up to 30 amps current! So far I've never tripped a 20A breaker with it, but I'm going to install a 30A circuit and use twist-lock plugs anyway.
You talk about the 3 conductor vs the 4 conductor on the 240, but you don't say why. I would be a bit more understandable that a range and a drier need 120 in addition to the 240. Clocks, lights, controls, etc on the stove need 120 and the drier motor is typically, but not always, 120, where as a water heater, welder, table saw, or other shop type tool, only need 240 and the neutral need not be run.
Those "wink" outlets are made that way so you can see the spark when the plug makes contact!😁
😃🙏
When the small slot is turned 90⁰ its a 240v outlet.
15 amp 120 volt (I.I) "5-15R"
20 amp 120 volt (-.I) "5-20R"
15 amp 240 volt (I.-) "6-15R"
20 amp 240 volt (-.-) "6-20R"
Note: the 15 amp 240 volt version ,while legal, is rare because idiots kept cutting the ground plug off the 20 amp 120 volt plugs so they could plug them in to it upside down. ( and set stuff on fire )
Equipment voltage ratings.
The voltage rating tells you what kind of plug the equipment uses ( grounded or ungrounded) and what frequency the equipment can handle ( N.Americas 60 cycle or Europe's 50 cycle )
"110-120" no ground plug , 50 or 60 cycle.
"120" no ground plug , 60 cycle only.
"115" ground plug , 50 or 60 cycle.
"117" ground plug , 60 cycle only.
So if you look at your cell phone charger it will say " 120 volt" but the power supply for your computer will be labled "115 volt"
Some high end audio equipment will be labeled "117 volt".
Anything that can run on 50 or 60 cycle and doesnt need a ground ( like an old incandescent desk lamp )will be labled "110-120 volt".
Bonus fact.
"32 VDC" means the wire or fuse meets DOT's requirements for on-road vehicles ....ironically one of those requirements is that it be rated for up to 300 volts dc
So yeah, that wire labled "32VDC" is actually rated for 300 volts.
Give me 20A power tools already!