Sometimes…..just every once in a while….you find an absolute gem of a channel. Learned so many insights and nuisances about IKEA kitchens. You have a new subscriber!!!
A huge thank you is in order! I watched almost all of your videos and used your Maximera online tool to DIY remodel my entire kitchen. Your videos on islands, suspension rails, flooring, legs, cutting holes and outlets, were particularly awesome and helpful. Keep up the great work and valuable resources!
Thank you. I always learn from you. Love the tips on assembly and the order .Also liked the tip on the exhaust hood cabinet. Hopefully one day you will do one where two wall cabinets are stacked on top of each other and spacing the rail. But I do appreciate your measurements to the bottom of the rail. Also like the wiring for the lights. I will do it when you have done it. Good thinking!!! In all the videos I have watched nobody has ever pointed out how much easier it is to do it your way. Very Brilliant!. The video is full of tips. I hope it gets a lot of views. Really appreciate the narration, that really makes the video work.
Thank you for your comment, Lyndon. I'm pleased that you got away with a few useful tips. There's really so many ways to install an Ikea kitchen and I think that adding a bit of mindfulness, will cut hours of the installation time.
Thanks for your comment, which is the first mentioning about the music. I've been debating the music for a while and came to the same conclusion as you. It serves no purpose, which is why I stopped adding music a few videos back. Happy to announce that it's not coming back.
I personally really like the music. I find it soothing. It seemed out of place when I first started watching the videos, but now I look forward to it. I'll still watch your videos without it, but I might hum the tune while I do.
This channel is great. I do have one thing I ran into. You mention you typically measure from the top rail down to the bottom to mark placement, and then just check for sloping and such in floor. It is worth noting that you should double check your base cabinets will sit 4.5 inches from ground, or you will need to create a custom toe kick. I went to install my counter top and realized it felt too high, turns out I was 5/8" too high, so I'm going to lower them a bit. Leaving it has a few consequences in my case: - Large gap between dishwasher and counter, I'd need to use a filler strip to hide that - The counter comes about 1/2" above the stove (not including the grates), and this feels like a fire hazard. I could raise the range with the leveling feet - Finally, you can see the gap in the toe kick if you are coming into the home, so a customer kick or some kind of shoe moulding would be needed to hide that.
Thanks 👍🙏 Yes, you're right. I haven't watched this particular video since I made it, but I hope the procedure is in line with how I do it 🤔 First I check my floor to establish the lower rail, from which I measure to the upper. Check this for reference. ruclips.net/video/QmRz5UMX-qQ/видео.htmlsi=VPH1Jp2lcAtUmOzt However, your comment initiated a revision of the description for this particular video, so I point out that watching the before mentioned video is recommended. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
@@kitchensbyrannes The videos are still extremely helpful and gives a lot of confidence if it one's first time doing this. Your small cabinet hack video was great. I was able to fill a small gap with a cabinet that will fit cookie sheets and cutting boards. Using a router with a chamfer bit I was able to get a perfectly matched edge on a ripped drawer front.
your videos are so amazing!! Is there a video showing how to lose the bracket of the high cabinet to install it close to the rail at the ceiling if you don't have enough room to "lift" the upper cabinet to hang it on the rail ?
Thanks. I am glad that you like my videos. No, no such video, as you remove the two lowermost screws at each side, swivel the bracket up a bit and lift the cabinet up on the rail. For the pantry, you need to be two people. It is heavy.
The under-cabinet light strip is Mittled, and you must get the wire for those separately. www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/vagdal-connection-cord-white-70463600/ If it is the spotlight sitting inside the cabinet with a glass door, the wire are attached to the light.
@@kitchensbyrannes, how and where is the power plugged in? The plug protrudes a bit, so how do you accommodate if the outlet is behind the upper wall cabinet?
Thank you for your question. If you have a door only, i.e. no inside drawers, you don't need much space. I sometimes only have a few millimeters (1/8"). However, Ikea tell you to have about 5 cm (2"). I can only assume that they want to have room for a handle, not sure. If you have inside drawers, you willl need those 5 cm though, so the door can open 90 degrees and leave room for the drawers to come out.
It worth noting that when using a stud finder, if the wall has been braced with ply underneath the gyprock, the stud finder only sees the ply and not the stud
Good point. I think some stud finders are better than others. The one I use cannot see the studs if there's plywood in the wall between the gypsum and the studs.
I have never found a stud finder that works perfectly, so I find a known stud then measure the distance to the next and so on, then mark the stud width on the wall. This ensures the nail/screw is in the centre of the stud, not off to one side. Studs are usually on one side of a power point or light switch, so they are easy to find.
@@harrycopeland8322 The one I use is very simple. Diodes light up, and it is pretty accurate. In many cases, the backsplash has been removed, and new drywall put up, and I can navigate towards the studs by looking at the new drywall screws too.
Croatian people are clever, you'll figure it out 😀 The thing is, I'm in Canada and here, everything in construction is in inches, so when I work, inches, so what I can put in videos...inches. The METOD (EU) kitchen system is different than SEKTION (America) so I can only show what I do. For rails, check this though: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.htmlsi=K3GZgXqwpTa1sRum
@@kitchensbyrannes ok, I get it, I know about American measures and hate them, I'm not that interested in IKEA, just like to watch installation of kitchens and you do it right, want to learn something from it.
You're very welcome. I always use the Mittled from Ikea. I believe that Ikea lights works best for Ikea cabinets and I've yet to see something provided by an electrician that'll change that. I've seen a variety of lights suggested by local electricians, but none of them match the IKEA ones in my opinion.
I noticed that on the right side of the lower corner cabinet you don't have any rail. That makes sense as the cabinet hangs off the other wall. If you did put a rail across that side because you need more anchor points for the rail on that side, does it get in the way of the corner cabinet fitting into the corner?
Under normal circumstances it doesn't, and I would let the rail on the wall with the cabinets perpendicular to the corner cabinet run by the corner, but in this specific layout (for solution #1) I was an inch short on the wall where the corner hang, so I actually had to shorten the corner cabinet with an inch, which you can see in the corner where I put the filler.
Wonderful video. I’m just where you finished hanging 30” cabinet. You checked to see if everything is level. Curious what would you do if one was not level?
Thanks. I am glad you find it useful. What would I do...? It depends. Normally the cabinets are horizontal, as I always pay great attention to mounting the rail horizontally. However, there's a bit of room for movement in the bracket that holds the cabinets onto the rail, so it is possible to loosen the screws on two adjacent brackets (sitting back to back) and lit that part move slightly downwards. If the cabinets aren't vertical, I will add shims at the wall or, if needed, remove the plastic spacer and then add shims.
Hey I noticed about 5 minutes into this video you mention about running the railing all the way behind the dishwasher area. You go on to say that you use a small bracket in the railing to help support the countertop in that area. Can you tell me where to get this bracket and what it looks like or model number. Thank you sir. Have a great day.
Hi Tony. The bracket I mention is either something I made myself (3D printed) or the Fixa countertop support bracket ( 702.746.28I) which I mount behind the suspension rail. I don't put in the bracket before everything else is done so it is easy to line it up with the cabinets.
I ran into this issue now in a very small kitchen, with a dishwasher between the sink cabinet and a free standing stove, so the laminate counter, which is nearly hollowed out on the sink side, ends at the stove and is basically flapping in the wind, only resting on the dishwasher (assuming its feet are adjusted high enough to support the counter top). I'm trying to figure out how to support it, short of screwing a bracket to the side of the stove. Normally I'd place a cabinet side wall between the stove and the dishwasher and secure it to the wall and the floor, but I only have 5mm clearance. I'm thinking I'll get a 5mm sheet of plywood and extend it all the way to the floor with a notch for the toe kick. Hopefully it wont have room to bow between the stove and the dishwasher.
@@kitchensbyrannes While laser leveling the sink cabinet, I glued the Fixa countertop support behind the suspension rail with ms polymer, then installed a Siemens dishwasher that comes with a top attachment corner bracket that you screw into the countertop, and made sure the washer was raised tight against the countertop and screwed to the sink cabinet on one side, which secured it nicely. So there's no panel between the stove and the washer. While laser leveling the sink cabinet and Fixa backets, I noticed the 8cm the Ikea instructions tell you to leave was not enough to fit the toekick (esp. on the sides if needed, since the tops of the leg mount have a notch where the toekick sits), so I made the leg height 85mm at the front, but then the dishwasher legs were too short (fell out of the screw threads), so I had to use pieces of toekick under the legs to prop it up. This is fine, as sometime later the linoleum floor will be covered with laminate, so there's room for extra floor thickness. The dishwasher only had 60mm adjustment (815mm-875mm). It seems dishwashers haven't quite kept up with the latest countertop height, or just barely with no extra.
Thanks for another video, Lars! I have a question on the under cabinet lighting. We plan to use the outlet in the cabinet above the microwave like you did, but I wasn’t sure where you ran the wires. It looks like it connects to the light and then runs behind the cabinet and back in through the hole where the bracket for the suspension rail goes. Is that right? We’re really hoping to avoid seeing any wires. Thanks for your help!
You're welcome. Yes, that's how I do it too. Use the small conduit that comes with the wire and run the wires behind the cabinets. Be sure to put the wires in before you screw the cabinets together.
With an L-shape layout how do you adjust if the corner has, say 91 degrees? If the stretch of cabinets is 96'', it would produce an offset of 1.7'' at the end 96'' away from the corner ...!?!
Hey there! Dealing with a 91-degree corner in your kitchen layout can be a bit challenging, but I will say that the answer depends on which corner cabinet you have. If it's the long one, I won't offset anything, as the filler on the side will take care of it. If it is 38" x 38", it is more difficult as that one is connected to both walls in the corner. You can probably find help here: ruclips.net/video/rSg6STLS27U/видео.htmlsi=o97Y54lQLCEMCrfT&t=956
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the link, very helpful. Is there the same choice to consider for upper cabinets (in a corner with 5' long x 5' of cabinets): avoid the corner cabinet with the angled door?
Rannes, Do you have any vids on trim install options at the top of the cabinets To finish off the look . I’m 6 1/2 inches from the ceiling so the cabinets need a trim detail. I installed gables on the boxes but the tops look unfinished.. I did cruise thru your libraries but no vid specific to top trims options.
Hi! Could you please point us to a link of the proper screws to buy to install the suspension rail? I have metal studs on one side and the other wall that faces the outside of the house I think is made of concrete blocks.
Hi Ely, Uh....metal studs. I do not like those and luckily I do not come across metal studs very often. When I do, I normally insist that 3/4" thick plywood sheets are put behind the drywall, as a backing. Hanging the rail into metal studs only, is normally not a good thing unless the studs are made from high gauge steel. For concrete wall I use the blue self-tapping concrete screws. E.g. 1/4 ix 2 1/2 inch..
I hope not either. I once did a kitchen with drywall on very flimsy metal studs. I couldn't get the rails to honest all. I had to mount the plywood on top of the drywall, but only where the cabinets were sitting as it's not advisable to have plywood where the tiles for backsplash are being installed. Not easy but as far as I know, cabinets are still hanging.
@@kitchensbyrannes There were cabinets there before, that hanged for 25 years before I took them off so the studs should be ok. I just needed advice on what screws to use 😉. Thank you 😊
@@elizabreu23 Good point. Ensure that every screw that goes into the metal stud meets a bit of resistance when you tighten it without overdoing it. Also, I would add a few drywall anchors between the studs. However, use the Zinc Self-Drilling ones, not the spring toggle bolts. The latter is garbage in my opinion.
Mixing holiday relaxation with IKEA kitchen assembly - now that would be a memorable holiday! I thank you for the offer, but I see too many hurdles for that to be happening😬
Thank you for the helpful video!! Question: in a three level open shlving pantry system, which of the 3 rails should go in first? The top doesn't even go all the way to the ceiling. Thank you
Ah, I see. Maybe I'm a bit slow these days but I'm not quite certain which setup you have. A "three level open shelving system"? Are you stacking three cabinets on top of each other since you have three rails? If so, the order of which you install the rails doesn't matter but they have to be mounted on the vertical plane, so if the wall isn't vertical, the one which is bumped out the most, goes up first and then the other two must be shimmed to be aligned. When hanging stacked cabinets, start from the bottom. If this is not the setup you have in mind, your welcome to email me your plan and I'll see what you mean. Cheers.
@kitchensbyrannes Yes, basically stacking shelves. The bottom has a countertop. Pretty much a kitchen but without doors and cabinets between upper and lower. The mid cabinets will sit on the counter. I did contact IKEA and they agreed that the bottom rail should go first. Thank you.
Ah, it's the word "shelves" that confused me, as we're talking about cabinets. A few thoughts. Be careful with any installation advice you get from Ikea. Chances are, based on my own experience, that the person you speak with has zero experience with the installation of Ikea kitchens. Zero. Non. Guesswork. The lower rail does not necessarily goes on first. Only if it will be sitting on the wall that's the most protruding part. If it's sitting "back" the other rails will be sticking out further than the lower one and the front of your cabinets will not be flush and vertical. Secondly, I can not recommend placing a cabinet directly on top of the countertop as it will offset the height of the cabinets. Without countertops, there should be 20" between the base cabinets and the regular wall cabinets, so if you put on the countertop, that distance is reduced with the thickness of the counters. This means, that if you put in a 20" cabinet on top of the counter, everything is offset upwards. If your have the wall cabinets at standard height, I recommend a 15" high cabinet as the lower one on top of the countertop and then a horizontal filler between the two, with the side panels running to the countertop. I hope all this makes sense. A better option than stacking cabinets is to use a shallow pantry cabinet (if available) and cut it to desired height. PS: I'm not trying to be better knowing than the good folks at Ikea, but you wouldn't believe the answers I've heard. This week, the suspension rails were missing from the delivery, and the reply from Ikea was "no worries, they are not used before at the end of the installation." 🤣
😱 My goodness! Just kidding. Clearly the contractor used by Ikea in your area see things differently. Was it IKS ? (Ikea Kitchen Service aka Traemand).
Yes it was done through Ikea installation services. I think they use one of their preferred contractors. Should I be worried he didn't use the rail? It appears he just screwed them into the wall. I doubt if any are in studs. It does appear to be secure and level though. What is your opinion? Thank you!
Sorry for taking so long. I guess the cabinets didn't fall down in the meantime. No, no worries. But I'm surprised that the installer doesn't understand the Ikea system.
Sometimes…..just every once in a while….you find an absolute gem of a channel. Learned so many insights and nuisances about IKEA kitchens. You have a new subscriber!!!
Wow, thank you! I appreciate your feedback.
A huge thank you is in order! I watched almost all of your videos and used your Maximera online tool to DIY remodel my entire kitchen. Your videos on islands, suspension rails, flooring, legs, cutting holes and outlets, were particularly awesome and helpful. Keep up the great work and valuable resources!
Glad I could help! Comments like yours, keeps me going.
Thanks for this series. It's really helpful to see the full installation and the way you sequence things.
You're very welcome, Jon.
I'm glad you're finding it useful.
Thank you. I always learn from you. Love the tips on assembly and the order .Also liked the tip on the exhaust hood cabinet.
Hopefully one day you will do one where two wall cabinets are stacked on top of each other and spacing the rail. But I do appreciate your measurements to the bottom of the rail. Also like the wiring for the lights. I will do it when you have done it. Good thinking!!!
In all the videos I have watched nobody has ever pointed out how much easier it is to do it your way. Very Brilliant!. The video is full of tips. I hope it gets a lot of views. Really appreciate the narration, that really makes the video work.
Thank you for your comment, Lyndon.
I'm pleased that you got away with a few useful tips. There's really so many ways to install an Ikea kitchen and I think that adding a bit of mindfulness, will cut hours of the installation time.
I'm working on it, Lyndon.....the stacking stuff. Stand by. for a few days.
You make it look so easy. How are you lifting the upper cabinets on to the rail all by yourself?! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Danish Dynamite 🧨🇩🇰
I wish you were in Winnipeg 😁
I will be in Winnipeg in July/August next year. Installing kitchens going west ☺️ tell your friends 🙏
@@kitchensbyrannes what exact type of screws do u recommend for installing the semitone cabinet rails? Ty 🙏🏻
@@crystaldawn2736 I'm not sure what rail you're thinking of. ☺️
Thank you very much. Your excellent videos gave me the answers I needed to do the complete installation myself.
Thanks, Dennis. I am happy to hear that you found my videos helpful.
great video, dont bother with the annoying background music.
Thanks for your comment, which is the first mentioning about the music.
I've been debating the music for a while and came to the same conclusion as you. It serves no purpose, which is why I stopped adding music a few videos back.
Happy to announce that it's not coming back.
I personally really like the music. I find it soothing. It seemed out of place when I first started watching the videos, but now I look forward to it. I'll still watch your videos without it, but I might hum the tune while I do.
Thank you for your feedback.
I'll consider adding a bit of music when it doesn't "get in the way".
This channel is great. I do have one thing I ran into. You mention you typically measure from the top rail down to the bottom to mark placement, and then just check for sloping and such in floor. It is worth noting that you should double check your base cabinets will sit 4.5 inches from ground, or you will need to create a custom toe kick.
I went to install my counter top and realized it felt too high, turns out I was 5/8" too high, so I'm going to lower them a bit.
Leaving it has a few consequences in my case:
- Large gap between dishwasher and counter, I'd need to use a filler strip to hide that
- The counter comes about 1/2" above the stove (not including the grates), and this feels like a fire hazard. I could raise the range with the leveling feet
- Finally, you can see the gap in the toe kick if you are coming into the home, so a customer kick or some kind of shoe moulding would be needed to hide that.
Thanks 👍🙏
Yes, you're right.
I haven't watched this particular video since I made it, but I hope the procedure is in line with how I do it 🤔
First I check my floor to establish the lower rail, from which I measure to the upper.
Check this for reference.
ruclips.net/video/QmRz5UMX-qQ/видео.htmlsi=VPH1Jp2lcAtUmOzt
However, your comment initiated a revision of the description for this particular video, so I point out that watching the before mentioned video is recommended.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
@@kitchensbyrannes The videos are still extremely helpful and gives a lot of confidence if it one's first time doing this. Your small cabinet hack video was great. I was able to fill a small gap with a cabinet that will fit cookie sheets and cutting boards. Using a router with a chamfer bit I was able to get a perfectly matched edge on a ripped drawer front.
Thanks 🙏
your videos are so amazing!!
Is there a video showing how to lose the bracket of the high cabinet to install it close to the rail at the ceiling if you don't have enough room to "lift" the upper cabinet to hang it on the rail ?
Thanks. I am glad that you like my videos.
No, no such video, as you remove the two lowermost screws at each side, swivel the bracket up a bit and lift the cabinet up on the rail. For the pantry, you need to be two people. It is heavy.
whats the distance from floor for the lower rail ?
It depends 👍
ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Let me know when your goodwill tour makes it to Seattle.
Goodwill tour? 🤔 Didn't know I have such a thing planned ☺️
Hi Lars, nice job. Greetings from argentina
Thanks Sebastian, I'm glad you like my work.
Which undercabinet lights are these? MITTLED? And do they come with a wire to span across the stove to cabinets on the other side?
The under-cabinet light strip is Mittled, and you must get the wire for those separately. www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/vagdal-connection-cord-white-70463600/
If it is the spotlight sitting inside the cabinet with a glass door, the wire are attached to the light.
@@kitchensbyrannes, how and where is the power plugged in? The plug protrudes a bit, so how do you accommodate if the outlet is behind the upper wall cabinet?
Check this:
ruclips.net/video/O2qc-NeKAdE/видео.htmlsi=FamIGXrJM1IXho1-
Lars, When installing a cabinet next to a wall do you need to have a spacer to keep the cabinet away from the wall for the door to open properly?
Thank you for your question. If you have a door only, i.e. no inside drawers, you don't need much space. I sometimes only have a few millimeters (1/8"). However, Ikea tell you to have about 5 cm (2"). I can only assume that they want to have room for a handle, not sure. If you have inside drawers, you willl need those 5 cm though, so the door can open 90 degrees and leave room for the drawers to come out.
Good video, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Lars, When installing wall cabinets side by side what type of screws do you use to attach them together?
Thank you for your question. I use the screws that's included with the cabinet box. There are four of them. Remember to use a clamp and to predrill.
It worth noting that when using a stud finder, if the wall has been braced with ply underneath the gyprock, the stud finder only sees the ply and not the stud
Good point. I think some stud finders are better than others.
The one I use cannot see the studs if there's plywood in the wall between the gypsum and the studs.
I have never found a stud finder that works perfectly, so I find a known stud then measure the distance to the next and so on, then mark the stud width on the wall. This ensures the nail/screw is in the centre of the stud, not off to one side. Studs are usually on one side of a power point or light switch, so they are easy to find.
@@harrycopeland8322 The one I use is very simple. Diodes light up, and it is pretty accurate. In many cases, the backsplash has been removed, and new drywall put up, and I can navigate towards the studs by looking at the new drywall screws too.
Mister only down side of this channel are measurements,they are in inches. All other great info, cheers from Croatia.
Croatian people are clever, you'll figure it out 😀
The thing is, I'm in Canada and here, everything in construction is in inches, so when I work, inches, so what I can put in videos...inches.
The METOD (EU) kitchen system is different than SEKTION (America) so I can only show what I do.
For rails, check this though:
ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.htmlsi=K3GZgXqwpTa1sRum
@@kitchensbyrannes ok, I get it, I know about American measures and hate them, I'm not that interested in IKEA, just like to watch installation of kitchens and you do it right, want to learn something from it.
Keep watching 😀
❤😊 good Lord bless you sir thanks for all the information 🙏 Amen 💯🙏 Amen 🙏😊
You are very welcome 🤗
Thanks for your video; it is so helpful. I want to know what under-cabinet lights did you use. Thank you so much
You're very welcome.
I always use the Mittled from Ikea.
I believe that Ikea lights works best for Ikea cabinets and I've yet to see something provided by an electrician that'll change that. I've seen a variety of lights suggested by local electricians, but none of them match the IKEA ones in my opinion.
I noticed that on the right side of the lower corner cabinet you don't have any rail. That makes sense as the cabinet hangs off the other wall. If you did put a rail across that side because you need more anchor points for the rail on that side, does it get in the way of the corner cabinet fitting into the corner?
Under normal circumstances it doesn't, and I would let the rail on the wall with the cabinets perpendicular to the corner cabinet run by the corner, but in this specific layout (for solution #1) I was an inch short on the wall where the corner hang, so I actually had to shorten the corner cabinet with an inch, which you can see in the corner where I put the filler.
Wonderful video. I’m just where you finished hanging 30” cabinet. You checked to see if everything is level. Curious what would you do if one was not level?
Thanks. I am glad you find it useful.
What would I do...? It depends.
Normally the cabinets are horizontal, as I always pay great attention to mounting the rail horizontally. However, there's a bit of room for movement in the bracket that holds the cabinets onto the rail, so it is possible to loosen the screws on two adjacent brackets (sitting back to back) and lit that part move slightly downwards.
If the cabinets aren't vertical, I will add shims at the wall or, if needed, remove the plastic spacer and then add shims.
Hey I noticed about 5 minutes into this video you mention about running the railing all the way behind the dishwasher area. You go on to say that you use a small bracket in the railing to help support the countertop in that area. Can you tell me where to get this bracket and what it looks like or model number. Thank you sir. Have a great day.
Hi Tony.
The bracket I mention is either something I made myself (3D printed) or the Fixa countertop support bracket ( 702.746.28I) which I mount behind the suspension rail. I don't put in the bracket before everything else is done so it is easy to line it up with the cabinets.
I ran into this issue now in a very small kitchen, with a dishwasher between the sink cabinet and a free standing stove, so the laminate counter, which is nearly hollowed out on the sink side, ends at the stove and is basically flapping in the wind, only resting on the dishwasher (assuming its feet are adjusted high enough to support the counter top).
I'm trying to figure out how to support it, short of screwing a bracket to the side of the stove. Normally I'd place a cabinet side wall between the stove and the dishwasher and secure it to the wall and the floor, but I only have 5mm clearance. I'm thinking I'll get a 5mm sheet of plywood and extend it all the way to the floor with a notch for the toe kick. Hopefully it wont have room to bow between the stove and the dishwasher.
Better late than never ☺️
Did you fix it?
@@kitchensbyrannes While laser leveling the sink cabinet, I glued the Fixa countertop support behind the suspension rail with ms polymer, then installed a Siemens dishwasher that comes with a top attachment corner bracket that you screw into the countertop, and made sure the washer was raised tight against the countertop and screwed to the sink cabinet on one side, which secured it nicely. So there's no panel between the stove and the washer.
While laser leveling the sink cabinet and Fixa backets, I noticed the 8cm the Ikea instructions tell you to leave was not enough to fit the toekick (esp. on the sides if needed, since the tops of the leg mount have a notch where the toekick sits), so I made the leg height 85mm at the front, but then the dishwasher legs were too short (fell out of the screw threads), so I had to use pieces of toekick under the legs to prop it up. This is fine, as sometime later the linoleum floor will be covered with laminate, so there's room for extra floor thickness. The dishwasher only had 60mm adjustment (815mm-875mm). It seems dishwashers haven't quite kept up with the latest countertop height, or just barely with no extra.
Good to hear that you figured it out.
Oh man, I never thought to use a speed square while installing the back panel 😞
Now you know....for next time 😅
Lol...not planning on doing anymore kitchens after this one.
Ah, don't be that guy. It's a lot of fun 😁
Thanks for another video, Lars! I have a question on the under cabinet lighting. We plan to use the outlet in the cabinet above the microwave like you did, but I wasn’t sure where you ran the wires. It looks like it connects to the light and then runs behind the cabinet and back in through the hole where the bracket for the suspension rail goes. Is that right? We’re really hoping to avoid seeing any wires. Thanks for your help!
You're welcome.
Yes, that's how I do it too.
Use the small conduit that comes with the wire and run the wires behind the cabinets. Be sure to put the wires in before you screw the cabinets together.
With an L-shape layout how do you adjust if the corner has, say 91 degrees? If the stretch of cabinets is 96'', it would produce an offset of 1.7'' at the end 96'' away from the corner ...!?!
Hey there! Dealing with a 91-degree corner in your kitchen layout can be a bit challenging, but I will say that the answer depends on which corner cabinet you have. If it's the long one, I won't offset anything, as the filler on the side will take care of it. If it is 38" x 38", it is more difficult as that one is connected to both walls in the corner. You can probably find help here: ruclips.net/video/rSg6STLS27U/видео.htmlsi=o97Y54lQLCEMCrfT&t=956
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the link, very helpful. Is there the same choice to consider for upper cabinets (in a corner with 5' long x 5' of cabinets): avoid the corner cabinet with the angled door?
Sorry for taking so long.
Yes, the answer is yes. Same sh...... problem 🤣
Rannes, Do you have any vids on trim install options at the top of the cabinets To finish off the look . I’m 6 1/2 inches from the ceiling so the cabinets need a trim detail. I installed gables on the boxes but the tops look unfinished.. I did cruise thru your libraries but no vid specific to top trims options.
I guess you missed it :-)
You were looking for the "How to" but forgot to look for "Why you shouldn't" 😆
ruclips.net/video/qAvuCW_3KQ8/видео.html
@@kitchensbyrannes Yea I saw that. It just looks so naked at the top after I added the gables and the light valance at the bottom between the gables
Hi! Could you please point us to a link of the proper screws to buy to install the suspension rail? I have metal studs on one side and the other wall that faces the outside of the house I think is made of concrete blocks.
Hi Ely,
Uh....metal studs. I do not like those and luckily I do not come across metal studs very often. When I do, I normally insist that 3/4" thick plywood sheets are put behind the drywall, as a backing. Hanging the rail into metal studs only, is normally not a good thing unless the studs are made from high gauge steel.
For concrete wall I use the blue self-tapping concrete screws. E.g. 1/4 ix 2 1/2 inch..
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you. I hope I won’t have to destroy my wall to hang my cabinets 😔
I hope not either. I once did a kitchen with drywall on very flimsy metal studs. I couldn't get the rails to honest all. I had to mount the plywood on top of the drywall, but only where the cabinets were sitting as it's not advisable to have plywood where the tiles for backsplash are being installed. Not easy but as far as I know, cabinets are still hanging.
@@kitchensbyrannes There were cabinets there before, that hanged for 25 years before I took them off so the studs should be ok. I just needed advice on what screws to use 😉. Thank you 😊
@@elizabreu23 Good point. Ensure that every screw that goes into the metal stud meets a bit of resistance when you tighten it without overdoing it. Also, I would add a few drywall anchors between the studs. However, use the Zinc Self-Drilling ones, not the spring toggle bolts. The latter is garbage in my opinion.
Fancy a Holiday in the UK and installing an IKEA kitchen?
Mixing holiday relaxation with IKEA kitchen assembly - now that would be a memorable holiday!
I thank you for the offer, but I see too many hurdles for that to be happening😬
Thank you for the helpful video!! Question: in a three level open shlving pantry system, which of the 3 rails should go in first? The top doesn't even go all the way to the ceiling. Thank you
Hi Mr John.
Just to clarify. Which product from Ikea are you thinking about?
@@kitchensbyrannes Hello. It is Sektion. All open shelving.
Ah, I see. Maybe I'm a bit slow these days but I'm not quite certain which setup you have.
A "three level open shelving system"?
Are you stacking three cabinets on top of each other since you have three rails?
If so, the order of which you install the rails doesn't matter but they have to be mounted on the vertical plane, so if the wall isn't vertical, the one which is bumped out the most, goes up first and then the other two must be shimmed to be aligned.
When hanging stacked cabinets, start from the bottom.
If this is not the setup you have in mind, your welcome to email me your plan and I'll see what you mean.
Cheers.
@kitchensbyrannes Yes, basically stacking shelves. The bottom has a countertop. Pretty much a kitchen but without doors and cabinets between upper and lower. The mid cabinets will sit on the counter. I did contact IKEA and they agreed that the bottom rail should go first. Thank you.
Ah, it's the word "shelves" that confused me, as we're talking about cabinets.
A few thoughts.
Be careful with any installation advice you get from Ikea. Chances are, based on my own experience, that the person you speak with has zero experience with the installation of Ikea kitchens. Zero. Non. Guesswork.
The lower rail does not necessarily goes on first. Only if it will be sitting on the wall that's the most protruding part. If it's sitting "back" the other rails will be sticking out further than the lower one and the front of your cabinets will not be flush and vertical.
Secondly, I can not recommend placing a cabinet directly on top of the countertop as it will offset the height of the cabinets.
Without countertops, there should be 20" between the base cabinets and the regular wall cabinets, so if you put on the countertop, that distance is reduced with the thickness of the counters. This means, that if you put in a 20" cabinet on top of the counter, everything is offset upwards.
If your have the wall cabinets at standard height, I recommend a 15" high cabinet as the lower one on top of the countertop and then a horizontal filler between the two, with the side panels running to the countertop.
I hope all this makes sense.
A better option than stacking cabinets is to use a shallow pantry cabinet (if available) and cut it to desired height.
PS: I'm not trying to be better knowing than the good folks at Ikea, but you wouldn't believe the answers I've heard.
This week, the suspension rails were missing from the delivery, and the reply from Ikea was "no worries, they are not used before at the end of the installation." 🤣
I hired ikea to install my kitchen cabinets and they didn't use a suspension rail for the base cabinets. Is this going to be a problem? Thanks
😱 My goodness!
Just kidding.
Clearly the contractor used by Ikea in your area see things differently.
Was it IKS ? (Ikea Kitchen Service aka Traemand).
Yes it was done through Ikea installation services. I think they use one of their preferred contractors. Should I be worried he didn't use the rail? It appears he just screwed them into the wall. I doubt if any are in studs. It does appear to be secure and level though. What is your opinion? Thank you!
Sorry for taking so long. I guess the cabinets didn't fall down in the meantime.
No, no worries. But I'm surprised that the installer doesn't understand the Ikea system.
I don’t use the rails on the bottom cabinets either. Just screw them into studs and together and you are good to go.
That'll be a lucky coincidence if the brackets for all the cabinets are located at the same position as the studs, no?🤔