Great video. The only thing I do sooner rather than later is install the bench tops. Much easier to get inside cabinets and screw it off from underneath before all the drawers and internals are in.
huh, for some reason I missed this first, neatly done walkthrough introductory video.....still, based on more than a dozen detailed thematic ones, at the stage where I am right now (just waiting for appliances to finally do the cutouts in the countertop) with full satisfaction I watched the procedures and checked I did not make any mistake so far.....all cabinets fully aligned....just a tad bit more and I will be finished 🥰
@@kitchensbyrannes...☺exactly...this was a small(ish) project, three hanging cabinets and three bottom ones, just a simple 240 cm, straight wall to wall setup....but, like a toy puzzle, after finishing one you just have an urge for another one, and a bit more "complicated" set up (to keep it interesting). Realistically, not going to happen 😇, I have my own job. But, there's still a few more steps with this one and I will remember it as a "Rannes' tutored" one 😁.....not that I wish to flatter you (or anyone), I simply enjoyed watching and listening to your approach and tiny tricks that really do matter (I managed to stick with a precision of 1 mm and all verticals and horizontals being as they should).....I am pretty sure that I did a more precise job than a pro installer would....it took a few weeks of late afternoon work and 2-3 weekends but I TOTALLY ENJOYED the process. What on line videos brought here (yours in this case) is CONFIDENCE that I was not making serious procedural mistakes......regardless of my new DIY projects, I am staying subscribed to your channel as I will be watching for a new "steps & tricks" that I might use in my leisure time in the back of my garage...🥰👍
Most construction dimensions in Australia are in millimetres …. 2mt 40 is usually called 2400. For the poor folk in USA, Liberia and Myanmar ( 😃😂😅) an 8 x 4 ft sheet of ply is 2400 x1200
Yes, true story. Canada is actually metric too, but nobody in construction seems to have noticed. I was born and raised on metric, but now I'm in Canada, working in construction. "When in Rome..."
These guides have been a life saver as I work through a full remodel myself. Rannes in this video the rectangular duct for range hood matches what I have in my place and I have struggled to find a chimney hood which can vent out to a rectangular exhaust port. Did this kitchen go with a chimney hood at the end? Any idea of model etc.?
I'm glad you find my videos helpful. The kitchen in the video had a regular under cabinet vent hood before, and after I was done with the installation, someone came in and created anew circular hole for the new canopy type vent hood, further up on the wall. I'm not certain that you can find such a good which blows to the back, I've only seen them with a circular connection on the top.
Interesting that you have the Toughsystem organizer trays. That’s part of the reason I decided to upgrade from 1.0 to 2.0, but then didn’t like them when i saw them in store and never purchased them. Now switching from 2.0 to StackPack. I also have that same work table and have used it for a lot of furniture assembly. Used to have that dewalt vacuum but it got stolen.
Thank you for your comment. The trays has a bit of s learning curve. Until I solved the problem with the small latches which were falling down, I didn't find much joy with them. But after I replaced the latches and build the charging pack, I like them much better. ruclips.net/video/IcFTGah2PMY/видео.htmlsi=lbHdewurXxqyDa6c
@@kitchensbyrannes personally I didn’t like how much wasted space they left in the box so I didn’t bother with them. And constantly having to deal with levels and step stools when going through doorways/elevators etc had me wanting to figure out a mountable solution, so switched to StackPack.
I'm currently installing an Ikea kitchen and your channel has been very helpful. Thank you for all the videos you have made available. I have a question regarding the fridge panels, are they necessary or not?
I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful. You don't need the fridge panel for any technical reasons unless the fridge cabinet isn't attached to a wall or pantry cabinet. Most clients choose to have it, a very few don't.
Fantastic! I printed your list so I can keep up with my installer! But I have a question - I know you don't install countertops, but your clients are certainly ordering them! The template ready checklist from Ikea refers to FIXA brackets - but there weren't any in the shopping list the Ikea planner prepared and I don't see any instructions in the part description either. Do you install them for your clients who are adding quartz/marble or other heavy countertops? Did you discuss this in a video I haven't seen?
Thanks, I'm glad that you find it helpful. Ah, yes, the Fixa Countertop Money Grab.... Support 😊 Answer is, it depends. Ikea claim that it is necessary, so if you're getting a quartz/granite counter through Ikea, you must have it. If you're getting the countertop elsewhere, you will have to ask if they require it to be installed. Done do some don't. As an engineer, I would say that it's not needed because a 1 ¼" counter will not bend over a span of twenty some inches and if the counter installer don't add any glue/caulk on top of the brackets, but only run a bead from beneath after the counters are in, I don't see how the brackets makes a difference. However, if anyone who's reading this knows something on this topic that I don't, I would like to be informed. Learning every day 🤗
Amazing video, thank you. I hope you can help. I have a fixed cement work surface and so will have to cut the units. Once they are cut, how do I calculate the height of the hanging rail.? Many thank
How do you secure the bottom of the upper cabinets? Once they are locked onto the rail, they can still be "rocked" away from the wall by pulling the bottom away from the wall?
Thank you for your question. Short answer; I don't. Any movement in that direction will be intentional, so I (and Ikea) don't count on anyone doing that. When you wall cabinet is full of stuff, gravity will keep it in place.
Thank you for your videos - they helped us so much! Question i have not seen addressed - how do you deal with using non-Ikea undercabinet range hood that are most often made for a 12" cabinet depth? We have a kitchen that will need to vent to the inside (ductless) and we'd like to get a range hood from a local store. Is there a proper way to space out the hood by the 3" so it sits out beyond the cabinet to vent properly? We've see that there is a stainless steel GE spacer available locally.
I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful. Ikea have a bump out thing for that. www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/nyttig-back-filler-piece-for-over-the-range-micro-hood-10536505/ It is for the microwave hood though but it will do the trick. If it isn't enough you can mount it on a strip of something but keep in mind that you might have to comply so local fire safety code, which is why the bump out thing should be non-combustible.
Thank you. Seeing that item gives 2”, I wonder why ikea wouldn’t make a 3” filler knowing most every under mount range hood is made for a 12” cabinet and a 3” filler is needed. This issue must be so common and yet finding a 3” filler (beyond one GE sells) seems impossible. I should add our situation is a ductless install. So getting the hood out far enough matters.
I use the screws which comes with the cabinets. Always clamp them together, the cabinets, not the screws 😀 I put a screws where either a hinge or shelf go so we don't see them. Three at the front, two at the back (top and bottom). A video showing the ins and out are on my to-do list.
Thank you Rannes! Quick question - any downside to attaching cupboard doors after countertops/tiling? We'll have custom made plywood doors and want to avoid them getting damaged during the (messy?) backsplash tiling process.
You're welcome. Nope, you can do that after. However, you can also assemble everything and the snap off doors and take out drawers when counters and backsplash are coming in.
Steps 17 and 18: Screw the cabinets together and then level them out? I would have thought they should be leveled individually before screwing them together. Can you please explain? Thanks.
Hi Edgar. You can do it either way, but I find it easier to screw the cabinets together when the individual cabinets are free to move. I eyeball level them if anything, before I screw them together, and then I level them all together with the laser.
Hi @kitchensbyrannes - almost done over here thanks to your videos. If you have a 30" tall base cabinet and a 80" tall base cabinet (both on four legs) next to each other, mounted on two different rails, should you still join them and should they be joined at the same time in the process as two base cabinets? It seems easier for me to level them before I join them with screws but could that cause a problem? Thanks!
Okay, I see. You're having a panel between these two, right? The most important things to get right is the distance between the rails. Must be accurate. Also, the rails must be on the same vertical plane, otherwise one of them won't be vertical. I always level all my base cabinets before I attach any high cabinets.
I have it so that the rail of the low cabinet ends slightly behind the high cabinet so that they sit flush and measured the placement of the high rail from the baseline of the low rail. No panel in between - just frames. When levelling them I get a slight gap at the front of them and they sit flush at the back. 24.0 inches from the wall where they join and 24-1/8 on the far side of the high cabinet.
Thanks Rannes for the guidelines. I'm just at the very early steps installing this slowly on my free time. Made a few mistakes as first time doing this but I'm in a right path from your guide. I do have these questions. Should i have panels on each side of my range hood for wall cabinets? I am having them at the stove, so I guess I need for the hood too?. I have the top cabinet as 36 inches with glass shelves. Where do I buy the pegs for the glass shelf? Are the glass shelves strong enough on 36 inches or should I have 2 18 inches cabinets instead? Thanks.
I'm glad that you find my videos help. If any wall cabinet is sitting next to another cabinet of different height, panel in between. I normally don't put panels at the stove but I know that the planners from Ikea does that. Selling more panels I guess 👍 With glass doors and glass shelves, most people only put wine glasses a Or similar on display, but I suggest that you check the specs from Ikea. For a 36" wide shelf, the max load is 12 kg/26 lbs.
Thx for your reply. I have two long 40 inch panels on each side of each 40 inches high cabinets, it's better to assemble the panels first before hanging them, I only need to assemble them to the top 20 inches cabinet in between. It's easier this way, right? Also, IKEA does not seem to have 40 inches glass door for 12 inches cabinet. What do you suggest as a replacement, like wood shelves instead?
@@cpm5303 If you mean whether you should add the panels to the cabinets before hanging them on the wall, the answer is no. I know Ikea shows that in some of the instructions which come with the panels, but you don't want to do that. In Ikea's world, everything is perfectly horizontal, vertical and perpendicular, but not in ours.
Thanks for your great videos! I have some wall cabinets (30'' high), and base cabinets that are not perfectly rectangular; say 3/16'' offset along the 30'' height, Since I can't remove the back's nails to square it, what can/must I do ??
I'm glad you like my videos. Have the cabinets been screwed together? If not, take the nails out with a small wire cutter. If everything is tied in and level, you really cannot do much.
Thanks so much for the videos and detailed instructions, very very helpful! I cannot find any information regarding the upper cabinet install, sepcifically any attachment point that they are secured in addition to the rail system. Are upper cabinets only connected at the top with the rail? So you could lift and tilt them from the bottom after installed, seems like they could rip off the wall easily.
You're very welcome. Yes, they are only hanging on the rail. However, there's a grey twist lock which you put in the hole in the brackets and turn it 90 degrees. That will prevent the cabinets from being lifted.
@@kitchensbyrannes ha, ha...🥰...my "nose" told me you must be of some Scandinavian origin but considered unpolite to comment ☺...in any case, the accent is what I recognized (thought of Sweden) since I have some good friends in all of the Nordic countries (except Island)....a very good university guys and gals and an accent familiar to my ear when getting together on our forestry related symposia....or fly fishing expeditions 🥰
Thank you for your question. There's a few options. One is to only lift the counters i.e. put something on top of the base cabinets before adding counters, but that might not be a good idea if you have wall cabinets. Another is to raise all the cabinets but that'll require adequate ceiling height. What's the best solution for your layout depends on your actual setup.
Step one just pay them to do the whole thing for you because in order to properly do it and get all the correct parts you need you have to use their internal software that they have that you pay a person a certain amount of money an hour for design and build your kitchen because myself building my IQ kitchen, I had to return this time to IKEA for missing and broken parts driving an hour out of my way each time but thank you for this is very informative and actually will help people in the future
Hi Jan. I'm happy that you find my videos informative. However, I disagree on your opinion about letting Ikea do the whole thing, as it will cause you to miss parts or even worse sometimes. Guaranteed. On top of that, you'll often get "uninstallable" layouts. Unfortunately, it's just how it is. I wish it wasn't but that's reality. Every single kitchen, planned by Ikea, I've installed, one or two things in the layout had to be changed and parts to be picked during installation. Sad but true facts.
Great video. The only thing I do sooner rather than later is install the bench tops. Much easier to get inside cabinets and screw it off from underneath before all the drawers and internals are in.
Thanks. I'm glad you like it.
Bench tops? Counter tops?
If so, true, sometimes ☺️
@Kitchen by Rannes thank you for including the list in the description!
You're welcome. I might add a Ready-to-print pdf in a few days.
But don't let the waiting hold you back ☺️
See what you made me do 😀 tinyurl.com/KBRCheckList
huh, for some reason I missed this first, neatly done walkthrough introductory video.....still, based on more than a dozen detailed thematic ones, at the stage where I am right now (just waiting for appliances to finally do the cutouts in the countertop) with full satisfaction I watched the procedures and checked I did not make any mistake so far.....all cabinets fully aligned....just a tad bit more and I will be finished 🥰
Good job. Now you're ready for the next one 😀
@@kitchensbyrannes...☺exactly...this was a small(ish) project, three hanging cabinets and three bottom ones, just a simple 240 cm, straight wall to wall setup....but, like a toy puzzle, after finishing one you just have an urge for another one, and a bit more "complicated" set up (to keep it interesting). Realistically, not going to happen 😇, I have my own job. But, there's still a few more steps with this one and I will remember it as a "Rannes' tutored" one 😁.....not that I wish to flatter you (or anyone), I simply enjoyed watching and listening to your approach and tiny tricks that really do matter (I managed to stick with a precision of 1 mm and all verticals and horizontals being as they should).....I am pretty sure that I did a more precise job than a pro installer would....it took a few weeks of late afternoon work and 2-3 weekends but I TOTALLY ENJOYED the process. What on line videos brought here (yours in this case) is CONFIDENCE that I was not making serious procedural mistakes......regardless of my new DIY projects, I am staying subscribed to your channel as I will be watching for a new "steps & tricks" that I might use in my leisure time in the back of my garage...🥰👍
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback.
Your guides are amazing! Thanks
Thanks 🙏
Amazing instructions! Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
94.5 inches is 2metres 40 for those who don't live in the dark ages.
There you go 👌
Most construction dimensions in Australia are in millimetres …. 2mt 40 is usually called 2400.
For the poor folk in USA, Liberia and Myanmar ( 😃😂😅) an 8 x 4 ft sheet of ply is 2400 x1200
Yes, true story.
Canada is actually metric too, but nobody in construction seems to have noticed.
I was born and raised on metric, but now I'm in Canada, working in construction. "When in Rome..."
thank you I am thinking of doing it myself
You're welcome.
I think you should do it yourself.
Saving money. Gaining experience.
No reason not to ☺️
These guides have been a life saver as I work through a full remodel myself. Rannes in this video the rectangular duct for range hood matches what I have in my place and I have struggled to find a chimney hood which can vent out to a rectangular exhaust port. Did this kitchen go with a chimney hood at the end? Any idea of model etc.?
I'm glad you find my videos helpful.
The kitchen in the video had a regular under cabinet vent hood before, and after I was done with the installation, someone came in and created anew circular hole for the new canopy type vent hood, further up on the wall. I'm not certain that you can find such a good which blows to the back, I've only seen them with a circular connection on the top.
Outstanding video
Thank you so much 😀
Interesting that you have the Toughsystem organizer trays. That’s part of the reason I decided to upgrade from 1.0 to 2.0, but then didn’t like them when i saw them in store and never purchased them. Now switching from 2.0 to StackPack. I also have that same work table and have used it for a lot of furniture assembly. Used to have that dewalt vacuum but it got stolen.
Thank you for your comment.
The trays has a bit of s learning curve. Until I solved the problem with the small latches which were falling down, I didn't find much joy with them. But after I replaced the latches and build the charging pack, I like them much better.
ruclips.net/video/IcFTGah2PMY/видео.htmlsi=lbHdewurXxqyDa6c
@@kitchensbyrannes personally I didn’t like how much wasted space they left in the box so I didn’t bother with them. And constantly having to deal with levels and step stools when going through doorways/elevators etc had me wanting to figure out a mountable solution, so switched to StackPack.
They are good looking. Don't tempt me 🤣
@@kitchensbyrannes 😂
Thank you very much for such detailed videos. Very informative and well done
You're very welcome, I'm glad you find it helpful.
I'm currently installing an Ikea kitchen and your channel has been very helpful. Thank you for all the videos you have made available. I have a question regarding the fridge panels, are they necessary or not?
I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful.
You don't need the fridge panel for any technical reasons unless the fridge cabinet isn't attached to a wall or pantry cabinet.
Most clients choose to have it, a very few don't.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you!
My pleasure 👍
Fantastic! I printed your list so I can keep up with my installer! But I have a question - I know you don't install countertops, but your clients are certainly ordering them! The template ready checklist from Ikea refers to FIXA brackets - but there weren't any in the shopping list the Ikea planner prepared and I don't see any instructions in the part description either. Do you install them for your clients who are adding quartz/marble or other heavy countertops? Did you discuss this in a video I haven't seen?
Thanks, I'm glad that you find it helpful.
Ah, yes, the Fixa Countertop Money Grab.... Support 😊
Answer is, it depends. Ikea claim that it is necessary, so if you're getting a quartz/granite counter through Ikea, you must have it. If you're getting the countertop elsewhere, you will have to ask if they require it to be installed. Done do some don't. As an engineer, I would say that it's not needed because a 1 ¼" counter will not bend over a span of twenty some inches and if the counter installer don't add any glue/caulk on top of the brackets, but only run a bead from beneath after the counters are in, I don't see how the brackets makes a difference.
However, if anyone who's reading this knows something on this topic that I don't, I would like to be informed. Learning every day 🤗
Amazing video, thank you. I hope you can help. I have a fixed cement work surface and so will have to cut the units. Once they are cut, how do I calculate the height of the hanging rail.? Many thank
Hmm.....🤔
Are the counters fixed in place so you have to mount the cabinet under it?
How do you secure the bottom of the upper cabinets? Once they are locked onto the rail, they can still be "rocked" away from the wall by pulling the bottom away from the wall?
Thank you for your question. Short answer; I don't. Any movement in that direction will be intentional, so I (and Ikea) don't count on anyone doing that. When you wall cabinet is full of stuff, gravity will keep it in place.
@@kitchensbyrannes makes perfect sense. Thanks for your time and for all of your videos, they are extremely helpful!
Thanks a ton for the shoutout, glad you find the videos helpful!
Thank you for your videos - they helped us so much! Question i have not seen addressed - how do you deal with using non-Ikea undercabinet range hood that are most often made for a 12" cabinet depth? We have a kitchen that will need to vent to the inside (ductless) and we'd like to get a range hood from a local store. Is there a proper way to space out the hood by the 3" so it sits out beyond the cabinet to vent properly? We've see that there is a stainless steel GE spacer available locally.
I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
Ikea have a bump out thing for that.
www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/nyttig-back-filler-piece-for-over-the-range-micro-hood-10536505/
It is for the microwave hood though but it will do the trick.
If it isn't enough you can mount it on a strip of something but keep in mind that you might have to comply so local fire safety code, which is why the bump out thing should be non-combustible.
Thank you. Seeing that item gives 2”, I wonder why ikea wouldn’t make a 3” filler knowing most every under mount range hood is made for a 12” cabinet and a 3” filler is needed. This issue must be so common and yet finding a 3” filler (beyond one GE sells) seems impossible. I should add our situation is a ductless install. So getting the hood out far enough matters.
@@user-eg4le4mu7m , they used to have on for that specific use. With metal and everything but I'm not sure why they discontinued it.
How do you tie the cabinets together? What screws do we use? Where do we attach them? Front and back, top and bottom? Thanks 🙏
I use the screws which comes with the cabinets. Always clamp them together, the cabinets, not the screws 😀
I put a screws where either a hinge or shelf go so we don't see them. Three at the front, two at the back (top and bottom).
A video showing the ins and out are on my to-do list.
Thank you Rannes! Quick question - any downside to attaching cupboard doors after countertops/tiling? We'll have custom made plywood doors and want to avoid them getting damaged during the (messy?) backsplash tiling process.
You're welcome.
Nope, you can do that after.
However, you can also assemble everything and the snap off doors and take out drawers when counters and backsplash are coming in.
Steps 17 and 18: Screw the cabinets together and then level them out? I would have thought they should be leveled individually before screwing them together. Can you please explain? Thanks.
Hi Edgar.
You can do it either way, but I find it easier to screw the cabinets together when the individual cabinets are free to move. I eyeball level them if anything, before I screw them together, and then I level them all together with the laser.
Hi @kitchensbyrannes - almost done over here thanks to your videos. If you have a 30" tall base cabinet and a 80" tall base cabinet (both on four legs) next to each other, mounted on two different rails, should you still join them and should they be joined at the same time in the process as two base cabinets? It seems easier for me to level them before I join them with screws but could that cause a problem? Thanks!
Okay, I see. You're having a panel between these two, right?
The most important things to get right is the distance between the rails. Must be accurate. Also, the rails must be on the same vertical plane, otherwise one of them won't be vertical.
I always level all my base cabinets before I attach any high cabinets.
I have it so that the rail of the low cabinet ends slightly behind the high cabinet so that they sit flush and measured the placement of the high rail from the baseline of the low rail. No panel in between - just frames. When levelling them I get a slight gap at the front of them and they sit flush at the back. 24.0 inches from the wall where they join and 24-1/8 on the far side of the high cabinet.
If you have a gap at the front where they meet, you must shim one of the ends of the rail far right or far left.
Thanks Rannes for the guidelines. I'm just at the very early steps installing this slowly on my free time. Made a few mistakes as first time doing this but I'm in a right path from your guide. I do have these questions. Should i have panels on each side of my range hood for wall cabinets? I am having them at the stove, so I guess I need for the hood too?. I have the top cabinet as 36 inches with glass shelves. Where do I buy the pegs for the glass shelf? Are the glass shelves strong enough on 36 inches or should I have 2 18 inches cabinets instead? Thanks.
I'm glad that you find my videos help.
If any wall cabinet is sitting next to another cabinet of different height, panel in between. I normally don't put panels at the stove but I know that the planners from Ikea does that. Selling more panels I guess 👍
With glass doors and glass shelves, most people only put wine glasses a
Or similar on display, but I suggest that you check the specs from Ikea.
For a 36" wide shelf, the max load is 12 kg/26 lbs.
Thx for your reply. I have two long 40 inch panels on each side of each 40 inches high cabinets, it's better to assemble the panels first before hanging them, I only need to assemble them to the top 20 inches cabinet in between. It's easier this way, right?
Also, IKEA does not seem to have 40 inches glass door for 12 inches cabinet. What do you suggest as a replacement, like wood shelves instead?
@@cpm5303 If you mean whether you should add the panels to the cabinets before hanging them on the wall, the answer is no. I know Ikea shows that in some of the instructions which come with the panels, but you don't want to do that. In Ikea's world, everything is perfectly horizontal, vertical and perpendicular, but not in ours.
@@kitchensbyrannesthis means I have to clamp them after hanging but which one first, the top 20 inches cabinet side or the 40 inch cabinet side?
@@cpm5303 Yes, attach them to the 40" first, and then tie the 20" into the 40" with the panel in between.
I could not find your document on making the room ready for installation. Can you post a link ?
Here it is:
kitchensbyrannes.ca/be-ready-for-the-installation/
Thanks for your great videos! I have some wall cabinets (30'' high), and base cabinets that are not perfectly rectangular; say 3/16'' offset along the 30'' height, Since I can't remove the back's nails to square it, what can/must I do ??
I'm glad you like my videos.
Have the cabinets been screwed together? If not, take the nails out with a small wire cutter.
If everything is tied in and level, you really cannot do much.
Thanks so much for the videos and detailed instructions, very very helpful! I cannot find any information regarding the upper cabinet install, sepcifically any attachment point that they are secured in addition to the rail system. Are upper cabinets only connected at the top with the rail? So you could lift and tilt them from the bottom after installed, seems like they could rip off the wall easily.
You're very welcome.
Yes, they are only hanging on the rail. However, there's a grey twist lock which you put in the hole in the brackets and turn it 90 degrees. That will prevent the cabinets from being lifted.
From Denmark?
Ja da 🇩🇰
@@kitchensbyrannes ha, ha...🥰...my "nose" told me you must be of some Scandinavian origin but considered unpolite to comment ☺...in any case, the accent is what I recognized (thought of Sweden) since I have some good friends in all of the Nordic countries (except Island)....a very good university guys and gals and an accent familiar to my ear when getting together on our forestry related symposia....or fly fishing expeditions 🥰
Hello!
I am 6!8 tall. Do you have any recommendation how could i make a few centimeter higher the worktop thus the whole corpus?
Thank you for your question.
There's a few options.
One is to only lift the counters i.e. put something on top of the base cabinets before adding counters, but that might not be a good idea if you have wall cabinets.
Another is to raise all the cabinets but that'll require adequate ceiling height. What's the best solution for your layout depends on your actual setup.
Step one just pay them to do the whole thing for you because in order to properly do it and get all the correct parts you need you have to use their internal software that they have that you pay a person a certain amount of money an hour for design and build your kitchen because myself building my IQ kitchen, I had to return this time to IKEA for missing and broken parts driving an hour out of my way each time but thank you for this is very informative and actually will help people in the future
Hi Jan. I'm happy that you find my videos informative.
However, I disagree on your opinion about letting Ikea do the whole thing, as it will cause you to miss parts or even worse sometimes. Guaranteed.
On top of that, you'll often get "uninstallable" layouts.
Unfortunately, it's just how it is. I wish it wasn't but that's reality.
Every single kitchen, planned by Ikea, I've installed, one or two things in the layout had to be changed and parts to be picked during installation. Sad but true facts.