I once believed that an IKEA kitchen would go together like Lego. I drove hundreds of miles and spent thousands of dollars getting everything I needed from IKEA. I thought that was the hard part finished. Soon after getting started with assembly and installation I realized that specialized skills, techniques and knowledge are required to get professional results. THIS CHANNEL saved the day for me. Over the past year, I have watch every video on Kitchen by Rannes. Now I have completed several large complex IKEA projects, and everything looks great and functions perfectly. My faith has been restored in IKEA, and social media in general. Many people believed the Google brothers paid too much for RUclips back in November of 2006. Now we can't imagine life without it.
I am so grateful to have found your channel! Just last night I was discussing this very situation with my IKEA kitchen designer. I was having trouble visualizing exactly how this would work. This video was the next one in my lineup to watch. To my shock this morning this video answers that very question. Thank you for making it very clear!
I had to do an Empty corner in the planner. (no cabinet) I just don't know how to do that in the real-world. I could use some help. I can send you the plan I did if you would be willing to peek at it. All of your videos have been so very helpful!
I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful. A "blind corner" isn't as difficult as you may think. You just cut two pieces of fillers from panels, in the same height as the cabinets. Onof the fillers must be about an inch wider then needed to fill up the open void from one cabinet side and go beyond the other filler, which must be cut to fit in between the before mentioned filler and the side of the other cabinet. I cut and mount the widest filler first, and then I measure, cut and mount the second one. Since the corner is empty you can easily reach in and down to screw the two fillers together when both of them have been screwed into their respective cabinet. I hope it makes sense 😀
@@kitchensbyrannes I will try to follow this when it's time. LOL! thank you! We are putting a plastic Skeleton and an empty cleaned out bag of chips in the empty space as a prank for the next owners of our house. HAHA!
I just put my first corner cabinet together and it was the most confusing one I have done. I manged to get it together but you really have to pay special attention to every detail and panel when assembling.
How did you attach the backing for the piece that we are to screw the pullout lazy susan? I don’t see the screws…it’s been difficult to get them in…stripped them.
Have you also tried the method of stacking the two pannels side to side (parallel to each other)? That would mean the filler next to the other cabinet has the width of the panel thickness. This would not work if you rely on the filler to align the cabinets, so it would only be usable when the fillers don't matter in cabinet alignment. I wonder if door handles would colide.
Thank you for your question. If I understand correctly, is the filler between the corner and the adjacent cabinet only as thick as the two panels? Yes? In most cases, you want to try to have as much filler as the one provided with the corner cabinet.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you for taking the time to reply. Indeed the filler would be as thick as the two panels. The advantages would be to have no visible gaps, have no visible cuts and to have fillers up to doors/drawer front panel level, but to achieve this you would not use the provided filler. I've seen this in some videos and I'm wondering if I could use it, or I run at risk (or certainty) that handles will colide between cabinets. I intend to place the sink cabinet with large drawers next to the corner cabinet.
I was about to say that if the cabinet next to it has doors, go or it, with drawers, I'm not sure. What's the purpose? If it's to have no cuts, I think it's a trade-off as it will look weird I think 🤔 Alternatively, get a deco strip instead. That's 2" and a bit, but you'll have to add a backer as it's not that thick, since you want it to protrude.
@@kitchensbyrannes my goal was to get with the fillers at the same level with the doors and drawers faces (like you get with method 2 prented), and at the same time avoid visible cuts (as you avoid with method 3). I think I will put them on position and try to see what happens, as it also depends on what exact angle I have in the kitchen corner. Thank you for the advice to use the deco strip.
Okay, I see. Just to clarify. Method 2, does make the panel and fronts flush, it only push the filler forward with its thickness. I don't recommend to make it flush as any adjustments if the door in the in or out direction will stand out a lot more than when it's not flush to begin with.
Hi have a question about the panel on the left side of the pantry cabinet, it won’t have any more cabinet next to it, so my question is: we are gonna install the panel until the floor or just to to bottom line of the pantry cabinet? Thanks?
Hi Patrick. It depends. If it's a 90" pantry I always use a 90"panel ie not running to the floor. I don't want to use a 36x96" panel for this. If it's an 80" cabinet, I can use an 80" panel in the same way, or cut a 90" panel to run to the floor.
Thanks a bunch for your great videos! Just wondering if we can install a narrower door for the blind corner cabinet? It is 21" wide but my fridge blocks few inches of this door. So I'm thinking of installing a longer front panel and a narrower door (16" or so instead of 21"). Thanks again!
Thank you for your feedback. Yes, you can. Not 16" wide, though, as Ikea doesn't offer that. A 15" or 18" will do. There are a few things to consider, though. 1) You cannot have a lazy Susan in there. Well, you can, but there's no room for it to swing out 🙂 2) The cabinet must be modified, too, naturally. Here's some inspiration. ruclips.net/user/shortsauhVknU-S0g?si=SepXqt0goNyn4qHk
Great tutorial thank you! I'd like to know what is the length of the filler space in cm form each side. There are no exact measurments in the IKEA manuals about these. Also how long is the space length of the countertop which expands outside the cabinet from one side? (It is something seen on the plan and photos but not specified exactly). Thanks in advance! // I'm doing a renovation and trying to figure out if it is possible to combine my old domsjo farmhouse sink (now discontinued) along with its cabinet alongside the corner base KNOHULT in L shape. )
You're welcome. The length is the height of the cabinets (30" or 80 cm) and the width is flexible. The long corner cabinet can be moved along the rail if necessary and the filler towards the adjacent can be made wider than the standard 2 ⅛" or 55 mm if needed.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks a lot for the response, perhaps I didn't make clear what I was wondering about. I attach an image in the link below with remarks about what measurements I would like to know. Very much appreciated if you can help with it. Thanks in advance! ❤
I once believed that an IKEA kitchen would go together like Lego. I drove hundreds of miles and spent thousands of dollars getting everything I needed from IKEA. I thought that was the hard part finished. Soon after getting started with assembly and installation I realized that specialized skills, techniques and knowledge are required to get professional results. THIS CHANNEL saved the day for me. Over the past year, I have watch every video on Kitchen by Rannes. Now I have completed several large complex IKEA projects, and everything looks great and functions perfectly. My faith has been restored in IKEA, and social media in general. Many people believed the Google brothers paid too much for RUclips back in November of 2006. Now we can't imagine life without it.
Thanks, Paul. Your valuable input is always appreciated 🙏
I am so grateful to have found your channel! Just last night I was discussing this very situation with my IKEA kitchen designer. I was having trouble visualizing exactly how this would work. This video was the next one in my lineup to watch. To my shock this morning this video answers that very question. Thank you for making it very clear!
You're very welcome. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
This was exactly the video I needed!
I'm glad you found it 😊
Thank you from France. I will start my kitchen next week and your videos will help me a lot 👍🏻
You're very welcome, Vincent. Good luck with your project.
Thank you for your videos, I find both informative and helpful.
You're very welcome. I'm happy to hear that. Thanks.
This is exactly what I needed!!! Thank you!!!
You're welcome 👍
I had to do an Empty corner in the planner. (no cabinet) I just don't know how to do that in the real-world. I could use some help. I can send you the plan I did if you would be willing to peek at it. All of your videos have been so very helpful!
I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful.
A "blind corner" isn't as difficult as you may think. You just cut two pieces of fillers from panels, in the same height as the cabinets. Onof the fillers must be about an inch wider then needed to fill up the open void from one cabinet side and go beyond the other filler, which must be cut to fit in between the before mentioned filler and the side of the other cabinet. I cut and mount the widest filler first, and then I measure, cut and mount the second one. Since the corner is empty you can easily reach in and down to screw the two fillers together when both of them have been screwed into their respective cabinet. I hope it makes sense 😀
@@kitchensbyrannes I will try to follow this when it's time. LOL! thank you! We are putting a plastic Skeleton and an empty cleaned out bag of chips in the empty space as a prank for the next owners of our house. HAHA!
@@Route32rgI’m stealing your prank for my upcoming kitchen remodel. 😂😂
I just put my first corner cabinet together and it was the most confusing one I have done. I manged to get it together but you really have to pay special attention to every detail and panel when assembling.
Yeah, the first few times can be confusing alright 🤗
❤Watching your channel just for fun :) really enjoying!
Yay! Thank you!
Lars do you have a video showing how to adjust drawer fronts? Thank you.
Not yet, but it's on the "to do soon" list.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you
How did you attach the backing for the piece that we are to screw the pullout lazy susan? I don’t see the screws…it’s been difficult to get them in…stripped them.
I hear ya....
I put the screws in from the back of the reinforcement.
ruclips.net/user/shortscRQzx1KUuMA?feature=share
@@kitchensbyrannes bless you. Sometimes we need permission to drill!
@@lesliehodnett8282 🤣
Thanks 🙏
Have you also tried the method of stacking the two pannels side to side (parallel to each other)?
That would mean the filler next to the other cabinet has the width of the panel thickness. This would not work if you rely on the filler to align the cabinets, so it would only be usable when the fillers don't matter in cabinet alignment. I wonder if door handles would colide.
Thank you for your question. If I understand correctly, is the filler between the corner and the adjacent cabinet only as thick as the two panels? Yes?
In most cases, you want to try to have as much filler as the one provided with the corner cabinet.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you for taking the time to reply.
Indeed the filler would be as thick as the two panels.
The advantages would be to have no visible gaps, have no visible cuts and to have fillers up to doors/drawer front panel level, but to achieve this you would not use the provided filler.
I've seen this in some videos and I'm wondering if I could use it, or I run at risk (or certainty) that handles will colide between cabinets. I intend to place the sink cabinet with large drawers next to the corner cabinet.
I was about to say that if the cabinet next to it has doors, go or it, with drawers, I'm not sure.
What's the purpose?
If it's to have no cuts, I think it's a trade-off as it will look weird I think 🤔
Alternatively, get a deco strip instead. That's 2" and a bit, but you'll have to add a backer as it's not that thick, since you want it to protrude.
@@kitchensbyrannes my goal was to get with the fillers at the same level with the doors and drawers faces (like you get with method 2 prented), and at the same time avoid visible cuts (as you avoid with method 3).
I think I will put them on position and try to see what happens, as it also depends on what exact angle I have in the kitchen corner.
Thank you for the advice to use the deco strip.
Okay, I see.
Just to clarify. Method 2, does make the panel and fronts flush, it only push the filler forward with its thickness. I don't recommend to make it flush as any adjustments if the door in the in or out direction will stand out a lot more than when it's not flush to begin with.
Hi have a question about the panel on the left side of the pantry cabinet, it won’t have any more cabinet next to it, so my question is: we are gonna install the panel until the floor or just to to bottom line of the pantry cabinet? Thanks?
Hi Patrick.
It depends. If it's a 90" pantry I always use a 90"panel ie not running to the floor. I don't want to use a 36x96" panel for this. If it's an 80" cabinet, I can use an 80" panel in the same way, or cut a 90" panel to run to the floor.
Thanks a bunch for your great videos! Just wondering if we can install a narrower door for the blind corner cabinet? It is 21" wide but my fridge blocks few inches of this door. So I'm thinking of installing a longer front panel and a narrower door (16" or so instead of 21"). Thanks again!
Thank you for your feedback. Yes, you can. Not 16" wide, though, as Ikea doesn't offer that. A 15" or 18" will do. There are a few things to consider, though.
1) You cannot have a lazy Susan in there. Well, you can, but there's no room for it to swing out 🙂
2) The cabinet must be modified, too, naturally.
Here's some inspiration. ruclips.net/user/shortsauhVknU-S0g?si=SepXqt0goNyn4qHk
@@kitchensbyrannes amazing! thanks a lot!
You're very welcome 🤗
Great tutorial thank you! I'd like to know what is the length of the filler space in cm form each side. There are no exact measurments in the IKEA manuals about these. Also how long is the space length of the countertop which expands outside the cabinet from one side? (It is something seen on the plan and photos but not specified exactly). Thanks in advance!
// I'm doing a renovation and trying to figure out if it is possible to combine my old domsjo farmhouse sink (now discontinued) along with its cabinet alongside the corner base KNOHULT in L shape. )
You're welcome.
The length is the height of the cabinets (30" or 80 cm) and the width is flexible. The long corner cabinet can be moved along the rail if necessary and the filler towards the adjacent can be made wider than the standard 2 ⅛" or 55 mm if needed.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks a lot for the response, perhaps I didn't make clear what I was wondering about. I attach an image in the link below with remarks about what measurements I would like to know. Very much appreciated if you can help with it. Thanks in advance! ❤
Where is the link? Alternatively...info@kitchensbyrannes.com
I uploaded it but it's perhaps banned by RUclips policies. OK I'll attach the pic in the email. Thank you!