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Watched many of your excellent videos. Doing my own ikea kitchen. I have a 90" cabinet to the right of the fridge and a soffit of 93.75-94'"(the bottom edge of the cabinet is not sitting next to other cabinets). I managed to get the cabinet up but what do you recommend for the legs? Ikea legs won't fit. Should I cut them down? It seems like a lot of weight for the metal supports alone. thanks

Rannes, thank you for being so generous with your time. I have learned so much from your shared experience & tribal knowledge.

Thank you. Just something I missed or don't understand. If the plinth is 11cm, will the 82 cm railing hight will be enough? This 82cm Hight is based on which plinth size!? Doesn't the plinth size affect where the rail should be attached?

It looks like you did not screw every 12 inches. Do you find that it is unnecessary?

this kit takes away any possibility to change the height after installation,. Not that you should change it afterwards but still... More importantly: I have the induction cooking plate with the integrated ventilation (which comes out at the bottom). This will NOT work with the frame. Be aware of that!

I have one sitting in my garage, but I won't be using it for another few months as the house it is going in is under construction. I wasn't going to use the old style, but this looks actually useful. I was going to build a plinth that was basically exactly this, but out of plywood. Level that, attach it to the floor, then put the cabinets on top of it. My island is not fully rectangular, it's two 36" full depth cabinets on one side, a 15" facing the end that is custom cut to 18" deep, with a waterfall edge on the other end. Seating for two in-between. Using one of the 42x74 laminate island tops. I will be very curious to see your video, I can always return it and go back to my original plan if it looks less useful than I think it will be. I am having a LOT of fun with this kitchen - I just built a trash cabinet with the electric opener and a custom insert to hold the trash and recycling bins, and a custom-topped Utrusta pullout work surface above them. It has a removable plug so you can sweep cuttings straight down into the waste bin. Also working on a 6" lower cabinet with a slideout holder for a stepladder, and another custom 18" pullout work surface in the tall pantry cabinet. Good times!

I hope you finish at least one video with it, because I have to install it. The thing is that I have an island-ish, I have a peninsula, a "L" shape, and only the short part is on the wall (2 cabinets) and 3 cabinets are not on the rail. I hope you have to say something about this. Thanks anyway for all your videos ❤

I hate it!! I have (last two weeks) installed it for a peninsula. Why don't I like it? 1. IKEA assumes you have a flat floor. Mine varied by over 1.5cm in various places - over the length of the peninsula. I found it impossible to get the fame under the cabinets and raise it using the instructions, ie via the screw feet at each end. To solve I shimmed the frame in various spots using plastic window/door frame spacers until the frame touched the underside of the all the cabinets. Then I added one screw to each floor bracket at each end of the frame. Then I secured each cabinet onto the frame using four screws into the cabinet base. I did not put the screws through the base sides of the cabinet vertical panels - as per the instructions - as I can see no point in doing this. Then I went back and put the remaining screws in the floor brackets including the middle brackets. So for me the levelling of the frame is not optimal. 2. IKEA assume you place the frame on the floor, get it level then add your cabinets on top. If your space is limited moving a long frame around isn't easy. If like me you screwed the cabinets together ( all nice and square) before putting the frame under the cabinets you need a lot of free space to slide the frame under. Again in a small kitchen this may not be feasible and you might have to undo the cabinets and remove them to get the frame in place. 3. There are hundreds of holes in the frame just so you can cut it and screw the end pieces on using the most appropriate/ nearest hole. This can mean it's tricky placing the floor brackets in a good place so that the screw holes for the brackets don't align with the bigger pre drilled holes - because then the screws don't fit. 4. The holes in the frame provide a weakness when screwing down the cabinet. You can feel the screws falling through these holes if you are unlucky enough to pick a spot where these holes are when you screw the cabinet down. 5. The previous system seemed much easier/flexible as you could place the floor blocks where best suited to the situation and were easy to align up/down The "only" benefit I can see for this new concept is you don't need a right angle screwdriver attachment as the frame is placed along the cabinet length. 6. For my installation the peninsula is attached to a corner cabinet ( the cabinet with the carousel/ Lazy Susan, not the bi-fold doors - see I do listen to you! 🙂). Reaching under the corner cabinet to screw the frame to the floor brackets is a stretch, if like me , you placed the frame in the middle of the base of the cabinet - if I had made the frame longer ie further into the cabinet i don't think i could reach it. IKEA want me to put the frame down before the cabinets but for my build this wasn't feasible due to the need to build/hang/place the cabinets and align then to avoid various obstacles. Next up is adding the cover panel to the back of the cabinets. IKEA changed this too. From something simple, two horizontal MDF bars fitted via brackets to each cabinet, to one flimsy timber bar at the top and metal right angle brackets that each have to be attached to the panel before jamming the lip of the bracket into the slot for the backboard. This isn't good for me at all. I ended up buying my own pieces of moisture resistant MDF and cut them to form bars that fit into the cabinet back panel and with my own brackets I fitted the back cover panel via the previous method. In other words buy/make the components that IKEA previously supplied as the new method is just terrible IMHO. To me IKEA changed something that was o.k. to something that is worse. But maybe I did it wrong/badly and there are better ways. I have certainly learned a lot from you Lars, so I'm curious as to your experience.

What is the solution when you are hanging the cabinets on the wall and mounting them underneath? Trying to notch the back and running them straight up doesn't work because the rail is continuous from left to right. Any ideas or assistance would be much appreciated.

Mister only down side of this channel are measurements,they are in inches. All other great info, cheers from Croatia.

These holes were very hard to align with all the moving parts. Plus the second board had smaller holes for some reason. But now everything moves freely so I guess I did them right.

My panels did not come with the mdf strips

How high did you install the rail for the fridge cabinet?

Are you danish Rannes?

Thanks for replying to my comment. I thought I had deleted it. Yes. I am unable to remove the skirting board, so I cut 1.5 cms of the bottom part of side panels and secured it with a piece of melamine as backing of 15 cms. to retain the strength of the cabinet and kept rest of mdf backing in the groove. It worked out to be OK.

whatever ikea is paying you, they should be paying you more. thanks for the video.

Thanks Rannes, your videos were a tremendous help with our kitchen setup. We just went through this setup following your first video and also added the smart hub with a shortcut button. The name of the dimmer remote is called RODRET "Wireless dimmer/power switch, smart white". If you want to add your Mittled to your smart home (Apple Homekit, Amazon, Google) the hub is called DIRIGERA "Hub for smart products, white smart". If you add DIRIGERA you can use the shortcut button for themes which is called SOMRIG "Shortcut button, white smart". With this one button you can add multiple themes like "cooking", "night light", "100% brightness", "all off".

thanks for your videos! Question really...do the Mittled under cabinet lights have to be connected to a remote or can they be hooked up to a dedicated receptacle controlled by a switch and not dimmable?

Great video and explanation. Do you find the backing mdf to be a bit thin and flimsy? Is there a way to strengthen it? Can I use a thicker mdf or melamine back?

Thank you very much. Its really clear after seeing.

If you are assembling or install yourself, make sure to check that the cabinets are square (either using a square ruler or measure the distance between 2 opposite corners) before hammer the nails in. We just assembled our cabinets just to find out they are not 100% square, 1 or 2 mm out. This can cause a bit of trouble once hanging the cabinets together. So remember to make sure it is square, take your time, don't rush. Hope that helps. Rannes videos are helpful, he makes it look effortless. In fact, it does take a bit of effort if you haven't done it before.

Great video, thank you Rannes!

Awesome thank you the information is user friendly.

Brilliant video!! Always do informative and well thought out and explained!!

So, front legs FIRST, then tie together cabinets second, then 100% level all cabinets , and the last step is just to put the rear legs and just make them have contact the ground to avoid messing up your previous level ?

Thank you for this! found the video at the crucial moment of hesitating between two kinds of corner cabinets and not knowing how to make a judgement. You provided all the answers!

fantastic video again! Thanks for the heads up for the new floor anchoring and connector rail kit. Have you used the new kit and do you find it more intuitive? I'm installing my island right next to a wall - would you recommend leaving a small gap to the wall or attach it as closely as possible?

Wish my problem was dishwasher was 30” tall. My measurements from tile to bottom of countertop is 33 1/4. And all dishwashers these days lowest measurements are 33 1/2 or 33 5/8. I have much bigger problem than you

such a great video again! I also wondered: will the quartz not be lifted by those metal rails and screws reducing the contact with the cabinet ?

how would you check theh level for the upper cabinets? since they're so close to the ceiling that we can't use this great technique ? I assume you have to make sure your rail on the top is perfectly leveled and then they will hang leveled automatically?

such amaing content. Thank you so much! You've inspired me to try to install our own ikea kitchen... it's a straight line, no corners but I'm sure there will be complications :P How to I start my first cabinet if it's a free standing dishwasher, do I just use a panel on the right wall , put the dishwasher in and then next to it on the left sink cabinets... IKEA does have dishwasher cabinets but integrated... mine would just slide in so no cabinet really but something would still need to support the quartz countertop on the right side of the dishwasher which is just wall :O Thanks so much for your input!

You seem very methodical, so I am sure there is an answer for this - but why do you nail in the back of each cabinet by hand? I'm surprised you don't use a brad nailer instead. Is using a brad nailer a bad idea? Thanks for your videos, I'm learning a ton!

👍

do you have a video showing how you're cutting the actual panel in detail with your usual great explanations?

These videos give me so much confidence to try to tackle my ikea kitchen myself.... I only have a straight 115 inch line, no corners etc... so hopefully with your expertise videos I can do it! :) if I don't add a pantry cabinet I could follow the 32 3/16 instruction though right? Because my upper cabinets will be installed below a bulkhead so I can't use the ceiling as my measuring point

I would advise to consider buying a permanent pen. Easier/quicker than using the masking tape in my experience. Especially since you buy new templates anyway. Thanks for the video content anyway! Or whiteboard pen to reuse the template.

Is there a link to a video how to install the corner cabinet light? Can these lights be hard wired? Is there a way to connect these lights at an angle(for corber cabinet)?

I went crazy with the lights, I added lights to pretty much every single bottom cabinet, even in the corner cabinets with the carousels. I also added the glass on the sides on all my drawers. I did pay an electrician to add 2 outlets to connect the bottom cabinets and the lights under the upper cabinets. I end up spending way more than I wanted, but it didn't feel that way because it took me over a year to get all the cabinets, but it is finally completed. About the extra stuff: I have been buying things like the drawer liners, utensils organizers, and even the little white plugs for the holes in the cabinets. I love my kitchen though. Thank you for the videos!

Why Ikea puts 6/8, it is 3/4, elementary maths?

We are looking at renovating the kitchen in about a year. These tips are good to considerate when we are starting. Have already designed the kitchen at IKEA and ended up with a price of 8k Euro similar size to the one you made. that includes benchtop, fridge and dishwasher. I added mostly bottom drawers as they are most practical and right now the kitchen we have is really unpractial and missing so much storage. I think in general opting for an IKEA kitchen, but maybe splurging on a better benchtop is the best sollution. We have an granite top today and its so practical as it is heat and scratch resistant. If we can I would like to buy an granite top myself.

Thanks so much for all these videos Rannes, they've helped my Ikea kitchen self-install massively. The only issue I have is having to convert inches to metric! We stopped using imperial quite a while back here in Ireland (thank you EU standardisation), so well done to you for being able to adapt to an archaic system of measurement when you moved to North America😆!

Just discovered this channel, planning to make DIY kitchen so will watch all videos.

Last time I checked the Voxtorp fronts are more than double in the US than the price in Canada... :-/

Good tips! Personally, I installed all drawers (where I could) and upper cabinets which open to the top. I did this because this will be the best for functionality and comfort. Money saving is a good idea. But do you want to use your kitchen for years and be reminded all the time that if you would have spent a little more than the functionality would be so much better? About all those little accessories: Until now I only bought a few of them like for cutlery. I guess over time I will buy some more accessories. The good thing is that they can easily be added later when we really need them. It is not necessary to buy them together with the cabinets in one go.

Do you have any tips on setting the proper height for the legs at the back of base cabinets in a galley kitchen layout, where hands can’t easily reach?

Great video. Simple and easy. Quick question, I did not find the lower brackets like you put in this video for the island. Do I have to buy them seperately? What is the part number? Mine came with only the top two brackets.

Edit: I was too stupid to plug it in right - it does work after all in the US just like in Canada: one has to use the round ends of the Ansluta extension cord to parallel connect the next. To me, the connection looked blocked off with white lids on the Trådfri, but these move back when inserting connector cable. I love your videos. Thanks for making these! I just went to Ikea in FL yesterday and bought a lot of these products. FYI The Trådfri power drivers here no longer come with the ability to plug in another one - the second port is simply sealed off. As a result, each Trådfri need their own receptacle plugged cable.

Hi Rannes, thank you for the educational video! I'm redoing the kitchen in my Copenhagen apartment but I need a vent hood without a motor which is suitable for a central ventilation system. Do you have any recommendation? I would be getting the Metod cabinet and would like something like the 'Underverk' hood from Ikea ideally. I learned from your video that hoods come with a filler piece as I was stuck trying to find a hood matching exactly the cabinet side before :-) Thanks again!