If you are looking for complete installation instructions for IKEA kitchens stop here at this video series. It's by far the best, most comprehensive, and thorough series on YT that my wife and I have found yet.
My cabinets arrive in a few days, I’m preparing the room and have already found the sagging ceiling issue… these videos are like being an apprentice to a master craftsman passing on his years of experience There’s no way I’m even unpacking the boxes until I’ve watched all of these, thank you so much for making these
You're very welcome, Gary. Reading comments like yours is the real reason that I keep making videos. Well, that, but also the abundance of videos on RUclips showing you many ways you shouldn't do it 🤗 I wish you all the best.
in my case, I opened a few, one bottom and one upper Metod cabinets just to see how they fit and read the instructions and see how everything goes before I make some irreversible mistakes. Took me a week to study in the evenings but I still had some suspicion on certain steps. Just yesterday, after drawing rail height lines on the wall with a laser I decided to check the internet and found Rannes' channel. How lucky it turns out ! Starting with this video on suspension rails......coming from the old continent, if only all the math would be done in millimeters and not in inches (fractions, even worse😱)...just kidding, it really does not matter in essence.... 😁
coming back here thx to the youtube's push message.... since I am subscribed (and will stay for sure, enjoying new videos)....so, after 8 months, my IKEA kitchen is fully in order and in perfect shape, function and looks.....in many ways thx to Rannes' videos.....amazing how, in spite being pretty sure in my general DIY experience, I found so many revelations that Rannes points out....helping me avoid wrong approach or poor installation (even the choice of better than IKEA supplied parts, like screws in some cases for example).....❤👌
Thank you for taking the time to share this excellent video with us. I agreed with you in cutting the hanging rails as you suggested and checking the sagging ceilings.
Thank you so much for this one! I can't believe no one, nor Ikea, instructs on how to get as close to the ceiling as possible. I'm ready to start hanging!
Thanks, great video! I am just about to install my kitchen, and until now I saw at least 10 other videos from experts. Nobody explained all the details as good as you. Thank you very much.
Thank you for taking the time to translate IKEA hieroglyphics to us!!! I completely misinterpreted a picture that you so eloquently clarified and then went further to practically give an explanation on how to do it better! Your content is appreciated! Cheers!
Sir, as I was about to hang a couple of cabinets, the information you provided was invaluable. I would have stepped into a lot of these pitfalls you are addressing. Thank you for putting in the work for this extremely informative video.
Luckily I stumbled on YOUR videos specifically covering IKEA kitchens. I do have some general experience and skills (and tools) but boy did I learn some very useful tips and comments of IKEA manuals. Good thing is that I am just preparing for this and mounting rails is among the first steps....and exactly one part that I was scratching my head about....SUPERB !
I'm glad my videos could prevent any head-scratching moments for you! Who knew installing kitchen rails could be so puzzling? Keep watching for more tips and tricks!
Thank you so much for these videos! I will finally began my project in about 2 weeks! (after waiting for 6 months for some missing cabinets). My local IKEA doesn't have installers, so I'm preparing to do it with my husband and adult son. We have put together most of the cabinets, but the rail installation makes me nervous. Thank GOD I have super high ceilings! I'll watch all of your videos and will make my family watch them too.
Hi Ronnie, Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I am happy that you like my videos and find them helpful. Don't worry about the installation, as long as you have decided to do it RIGHT, it will be fine. And, don't be shy, send a question if you run into problems. I will be happy to guide you. All the best with your project.
great video! I put an extra screw tight to the bottom of the rail. Into the drywall and stud. You double the holding power from 80 pounds to 160 pounds by doing this.
Very useful advice, the question is why IKEA can't help with all of this in the same way.A self-explanatory drawing supplemented with understandable advice would help a lot. Designers should learn to think with the mind of a simple person.Thanks Rannes for the excellent explanations.
Thank you for your comment. I'm not sure that Ikea wants you to do it yourself since they are in the business of installation, too, as they offer to install the kitchen for you. When I started out installing Ikea kitchens, I wished that they had better instructions, but after I learned that they actually aren't "Designing for Installation," I am pleased that they focused elsewhere.
@@kitchensbyrannesYeah, Ikea bought the company the recommended for installation and design. So, I can definitely see why they want you to buy the 'professional' installation now.
This is fantastic information. I am only installing a small 60" run of uppers and lowers but I live in a 100 year old house, so nothing is square or flat. I wondered about the heights from the ceiling and floors. I haven't opened the boxes yet, but given Ikea instructions, not sure I'd get that information. Thank you so so much for this video!
You're very welcome, Anne. If you're only having uppers and lowers, but no pantry cabinet connecting those, you'll have no problems... almost 🤗 Just make sure you know where the lowest spot on your ceiling is, and go from there. This video might help too: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Thank you RUclips! Love this guy, great clarity, precise no nonsense professional selflessly passing on his valuable time learnt skills. What a star! Much appreciated. TY
Good video. I'll add that the measurements that you gave at the end of the video (height from baseline) are better than Ikea's instructions also. Ikea recommends 120cm (~47") above the base rail if you have 30" upper cabinets and we found that that is not high enough to provide suitable clearance to the top of the counter. Your suggestion of 50" is right on the money.
What makes this video so awesome it's like every time I go through a project I learned so much but I've made so many mistakes. Thank you so much for showing us the pitfalls and tricks I know it's saved me a ton of time and headaches
Quick tip when doing this job alone: once you have placed the horizontal laser line on the wall at the correct height, hammer 3 tiny nails into the wall along the line. You can then rest the rail on the nails, which will make your job easier while you put in all the screws and fine tune the rail's positioning to get perfectly level. What do you think Rannes?
Thanks for the tip. If it works for you, or others, go for it. I usually put in the first screw in the middle of the rail and let it hang on that. Then do each end and then the rest.
We are currently building an Ikea kitchen to self install into our house. We have a lot of plasterboard walls (relatively new build house, we moved in 16 years ago when it was new). These tips are amazing, thank you! I need to invest in a stud finder for our wall cabinets. Liked and subscribed
@@kitchensbyrannes Your welcome. I forgot to mention that your tip at the very end about how to hang the upper cabinet rail by measuring from the lower base line is one of the best ones. It makes it so much more clear how to do it. I hope IKEA listens. Well done!
Agreed.......Same problem applies with B&Q and other wall cabinets. I had no space left for my exact fit wall cabinets so couldn't use the hanging rails. Put corner brackets and screwed directly through these into the wall.
These videos give me so much confidence to try to tackle my ikea kitchen myself.... I only have a straight 115 inch line, no corners etc... so hopefully with your expertise videos I can do it! :) if I don't add a pantry cabinet I could follow the 32 3/16 instruction though right? Because my upper cabinets will be installed below a bulkhead so I can't use the ceiling as my measuring point
Of course you can do it 😁 Yes, nothing complicated. 32 3/16" if your floor is in already 👍 Check this too ruclips.net/video/Q-wMScq6S94/видео.htmlsi=QvJ236VT49ZMkXA4
Great video @kitchensbyrannes ! Does the same apply for taller (80 inch) cabinets with legs as the base cabinets - that the cabinet does not need to be held by the rail, only the legs? Is it sufficient for one 80 inch x 30 inch tall cabinet if I cut a 29.5 piece of rail attached to 2 studs on the inside of the cabinet brackets (the cabinet has four legs). Thanks!
You're welcome. Yes. For the high cabinets the rail is less important as it stands on four legs, as you mentioned. I only rely on the rail for those for two things. 1) Keep the cabinet hanging until I have placed the legs, and 2) Keep the cabinet from falling forward or to the side i.e. securing it to the wall.
Gosh I wish I had stumbled across your video a long time ago, it would have helped a ton! Nevermind though, I'll save it for the next project. Great logical explanations, thank you so much! 😊
@6:06 the item on top of the Fridge - I think IKEA might call it Musfälla - but I don't think it comes with the rails.🙂 Great video thanks for the really useful tips/advice.
Good information here, but just as an FYI... most installers will tell you that measurements from the ground up assume that you are taking that measurement from the highest point on the floor and using a "level", not a random fixed point from measuring. Your points are valid in terms of saying things will not be squared, but IKEA assumes that you have knowledge of using high-point leveling (they actually provide something like an inch of variance in the length of their legs to account for this. So, at whatever high point along the floor you find, you take the 32 and 3/16 inches and mark the wall there drawing a line across the wall using a long level (preferably at least a 4' level if not a 6' or 8'). If you have the equipment, you can use the laser level at that point as well. You do the same for the upper cabinets as well, but you have to account for the ceiling drop as you mentioned. But you still want to keep the measure according to the floor so the tops of your cabinets do not vary (and the distance between the upper and lower cabinets conforms with your local building codes). And you want to do that at the same point that you did with the lower cabinets. Then you check the distance between the two lines at various points to make sure they're consistent. Install the rails accordingly and check again to make sure the distance between them is consistent again. Do that and you'll have a good installation.
Thanks for sharing, even though I'm not sure what your point is exactly though 🤔 Been reading your comment a few times, and I disagree on a number of thing, but I'll let it be. All the best. 👍
Thanks for posting. I’m total new to this work. What type of screws do you suggest to use to further tightening the rail? Also, what’s your suggestion on filling the ceiling gaps due to the sagging leveling
Thank you for your questions. For suspension rail screws, I use the ones mentioned at the bottom of this page: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/ I always leave the gap between the ceiling and the cabinets open. I think that any material used to close the gap will enhance the difference in height. I believe the shadow is doing a much better job in evening out the "eyesore."
Hi, thank you for your great videos, I have a question, when starting with the lower cabinets, should I add 1/4” to the 32-3/16 to compensate for the new flooring we’ll be adding after the cabinets are installed, please let me know ,, thank you
Will be upgrading a kitchen soon and saw your very very useful videos. I’ll definitely be watching the series to ensure I learn all the useful proven tips and guides. A quick question here - is there an easy way of ‘levelling’ just using spirit level iso a laser level ? Doing one kitchen only so probably not justified to get a laser unit. Advice appreciated. Thanks
Thank you for your feedback. Sure, leveling with a spirit level is possible, but you'll thank me for recommending getting a laser level since hanging rails and assessment of ceiling and floors are super easy with the laser. Spirit level for these tasks are almost impossible.
@@kitchensbyrannes I’ve taken your advice and purchased a laser level. Just a query on the height of cabinet (with benchtop). Can you please advise the maximum possible height for ikea metod cabinets & standard ikea legs. I am considering a total height from floor to the top of the benchtop of around 960mm (the height of existing benchtop). And how to achieve this height. Planning to use 38mm thick benchtop. Thank you
Cabinet height. I have to admit, that when it comes to the maximum height adjustability of the Metod legs, I only know what I can read on the Ikea website as I have no experience with those. Here in Canada, we have the Sektion system with different dimensions. Sorry I cannot be if more help. That said, keep in mind that if you have wall cabinets too, the distance between the uppers may be reduced unless these will be mounted higher up on the wall too.
Thanks for this excellent info. Ihave a question. I'm installing the base cabinets on the floor and have a level area for the most part. I'd like to mount the cabinets to the rail and put 1/4' lattice under the front & back of the base cabinets so no door issues open & closing. How high should the rail be from the floor? I'm using the cabinets for an office and cannot have the countertop height so I've eliminated the legs for leveling.
Good Morning We are trying to figure out how to hang upper stacked cabinets? Do we start with the lower first? Will they be a tight fit? Thanks so much! We are in the middle of our build. Boxes everywhere lol! Signed, Mrs Heras
Good morning, Mrs Heras. Your timing is imminent. I am spending my Sunday working on a short video promoting a post on that topic. Check it out below, and make your choices based on your room and setup. kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/ I hope you will find it helpful. Good luck with your project.
I have not installed kitchen cabinets, but I have done a lot with their other Alex drawer units and storage cabinets. I am wanting to hang some wall units above my washer dryer. I have 60 inches wall-to-wall. I wanted to buy 230 inch cabinets but I’m afraid about getting the cabinet doors open against the walls. I was looking for anything in your videos that might help with that question. you are awesome at explaining everything!
If you have regular doors, on your cabinets, you can get away with almost no clearance to the wall. If you have 60+ inches from wall to wall, two 30" wide cabinets might work.
Great video!! I’m using the ikea cabinets in my laundry room. I have the 40” tall upper cabinets, but i also have tall ceilings so I can’t put them right up to the ceiling. In that case, what would you do for screwing the rail between the studs? Would I have to use wall anchors in that case?
Hi Pamela, Thanks 👍 and thank you for your question. If you're using the rights screws and the studs are sitting 16" apart, I normally don't add anchors, but it depends on each individual situation. I often add an anchor at the end of there's more than 6 inches to a stud with a screw. I use the anchors mentioned in this article: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Hi, Thanks for the video.. I’m trying to screw only one high cabinet, whether I need rail or I can screw directly to the stud? Luckily I have studs behind each end. If I can screw directly what screw you recommend?
Yes, in that case, rail isn't needed. Remember to put the black plastic thingy into the brackets, to get the same distance. I regularl 3" long screw for wood, or similar, will work. I would use the rail though. Much easier as you can hang the cabinet up without the legs, and add legs after. If you go without rail, balancing the cabinet on the legs is a pain.
Hi. Your videos are very informative. Regarding rail height, is the measurement from the unfinished floor under the cabinets or the finished floor that will be what you see? I will have new wood floor installed after the cabinets are in. Thanks for a response.
Question: The Ikea diagram says 32 3/16, but verbally you said 32 1/2. Is there a reason for this? Just a little confused about that. Thank you for the excellent video with all the tips and tricks! Extremely valuable!
Oh, didn't know. I better watch it again. 32 3/16" is the accurate height from the floor, but a few factors can justify a small variance. Just know that any difference from 32 3/16" will effect the final height of the countertop above the floor. Also, if you put in a floating floor after the kitchen has been installed, you must offset the height with the thickness of the floor.
Fantastic video. Really informative. Thanks for taking the time. What’s the distance from the bottom of the support rail to the top of the cabinet? Does the top of the rail just sit flush with the top of the cabinet? I would like to instal one cabinet but the bottom of the cabinet has to just clear standard 5.25” baseboards. So I’m trying to figure out how to calculate the height of the rail and where to place it. (Hope that makes sense 😃).
Thank you for your comment. I'm happy that you find this video helpful. The distance from the bottom of the rail to the top of the cabinet is 2 3/8" and the rail isn't flush with the top of the cabinet. About 1/8" in difference. If the lower edge of the rail is sitting 32 3/16" from the floor, there's about 4 1/2" from floor to cabinet. If you need 5 1/4" you'll have to add the difference to where the rail sits ie approximately 33" with a bit of safety margin. But first, but a level on the floor and measure from the highest point. Good luck with your project.
Thank you so much for the thorough answer. That’s exactly the explanation I needed. The points you made in this response and in the video about using a laser level to measure from the highest points in the project (whether from a slanted floor or sagging celling) is fantastic. Time to start incorporating laser levels in my projects now. Thank you again for sharing your expertise. PS. In the new Sektion Rail instructions, from Ikea online and not the print ones yet, they removed the weird 6/8 fraction and say you need 1” from the ceiling height.
would really have appreciated if your measurements had been in cm or mm. It would probably have contributed to several subscribers. best regards from Sweden :)
Hej Sverige. I hear ya! On this channel, I try to stick with what I know, i.e., share my own experience. Since I work with inches here in Canada, the majority of my videos will use imperial measurements. However, självklart kommer jag inte svika mina svenska vänner, så kolla in den här: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Thank you very much for an amazing channel. I learned a lot form you. My ceiling is not perfectly horizontal in the direction of the rail, but I installed the rails perfectly leveled. Now, the gap between the ceiling and cabinets on the left is about 3/4" perfect for molding while the right one is only 1/4" too small. I was wondering what you would do in these situation? Thank you
Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful. The gap.......do nothing 😀 The shadow between the ceiling and the cabinets is doing a much better job than anything else you could think of putting in there. ruclips.net/video/qAvuCW_3KQ8/видео.htmlsi=5Q2HEFRnRpRiCfdD
Your videos are terrific! I am wondering what type of wall anchors I can use for the rails as my ceiling is vaulted and the number of studs is limited.
Thanks 🙏 The key word in your question is "limited." Any rail I install must be secured into minimum one stud per cabinet, as a rule of my own thumb, and if there's a wall cabinet sitting by itself, two must be the desired minimum. However, no rules without exceptiond, so every now and then I am faced with a situation where the studs are 24' on center and there's a single 21" or less wide wall cabinet in the plan. Depending on the situation, I sometimes say "no, not possible " and sometimes I use a number of anchors together with one or two securely fastened screws into the one stud available. All this, and you didn't even ask about that. The only drywall anchor I use is shown at the bottom of this page: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Impressive video, I wish I had stomped on it prior to installing the rails and cabinets, I completely missed the fact that the floors are not flat, and I'm currently in the process of redoing everything. A couple of questions though: 1. Do I place the laser level in the center of the room - irrespective of its depth - and set the laser line @32 3/16" and check where it sits 2 ft away from all the walls that have cabinets? Or do I measure it for a single wall and then apply it across the perimeter? 2. My biggest issue is this: Assume one point the laser line sits perfectly at 32 3/16" from the floor, upon installing the railing do I level it based on this height or based on the laser line (even though at other points along the laser line there will be different heights because of the flooring)? Thank you!
Thanks. Put your laser at a position where it can cover all wall involved. Any part of the base cabinets connected with the same countertop or stove, must be at same height. If your floor varies a lot, find a good middle ground. 2. All rails follow the laser, not the floor. If not, your hotdog buns will roll of the countertop ☺️
Thank you for making these useful videos. Would you be able to help me…I am planning to install 3 upper cabinets and a high cabinet. Total wall width is 110 inches. Sum of all cabinet width is 108 inches. How do I cover up the space for the 2 in inches.
You're very welcome. In most cases, I cut fillers from a 15x90" panel. As seen here, where I'm installing a filler for a walk cabinet. ruclips.net/user/shortsa5XLSGjZjew?si=JmiB_ySRhla3CN5H
Tak, Anders. Du har en pointe med de der centimeter. Jeg vil huske at tilføje centimeter som tekst fremover. Thanks Anders. Point taken, I'll remember to add metric values as text going forward.
Thanks for the useful tips. I'm starting to remodel the kitchen too and stumble on your channel. The only issue I face is my wall is not straight, there are two diagonal sides which wall parts away and I have no idea how I can make the fillers between the flat and the diagonal ones. I only see cabinets installed on flat walls and none have diagonal walls which make an angle , I guess I have stop at the intersection on flat one , and install one on the diagonal side and looking how to make a filler. But any advice is greatly appreciated!
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate your contribution. The walls. Do you mean that a longer wall is breaking outwards and opening up at some point? If so, a filler where they meet might be the solution. If possible, you could make the filler 5" wide and put a 5" drawer front on top of it, so it looks like a narrow door. That'll only work for the base cabinets and a 30" high wall cabinet though. Good luck with your installation.
@@kitchensbyrannes Yes, the 2 walls are at an angle, my cabines are 40 inches high so say I mount both of them, one is facing as normal on straight wall, the other is facing diagonally with the angle. I think I have to make the one in the angle closer as possible so I can put a filler. My old kitchen was custom, so they cut to fit the angle. Unless I have to custom cut a 12x40 inch cabinet to fill the gap and to make it fit the angle? I do have the same problem at the base cabinets but like you say I can use a drawer for that since I need the countertop on it.
I am hanging one rail with two 36 inch cabinets next to each other about 15 inches down from the ceiling. Do I have to concern myself with shimming any gaps? I am thinking not, since it is one rail that the two cabinets will be hanging from. However, I don’t want to be surprised hand have to do it all over. The space I am working in is 74 inches wide.
It depends. Are the gaps you mention between the rail and the wall? Since you only have two cabinets, you have to be sure that the two ends and the midsection are on the same plane, as that's where the brackets will hang. That said, you can not make it too flat, and you certainly don't want the midpoint protruding from the two ends as that will leave you with a gap between the cabinets you cannot close with screws without twisting the cabinet boxes. The short answer: make sure the rail is horizontal and flat
Thanks! About the shims on the wall (see 15:50): How accurate do you select the shims? I bought some shims, and the slimmest version is 1/16” = 1.6mm. Is that accurate enough to shim the rail (on the important points) to be accurate to 1/16”? Or would it be better to have it accurate to 1/32” or 0.5mm or what do you suggest? Thanks
Hi Rannes, any tips for mounting a suspension rail to ensure the distance between the top of a wall cabinet and the ceiling is precise enough to fit a filler panel?
Just add the sickness of the panel to the minimum distance the rail must be from the ceiling. However, I'm certain it won't look nice unless of course your house has perfectly horizontal ceilings, because you're certainly not going to let the rail follow the ceiling, right?
Thank you. For stud wall I use this screw: B&C Eagle WoodPro Fasteners ST14X212-50PC 1/4-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch Length Round Washer Head Exterior Wood Screws, 50-Pack a.co/d/f9YGm5t
Watched many of your excellent videos. Doing my own ikea kitchen. I have a 90" cabinet to the right of the fridge and a soffit of 93.75-94'"(the bottom edge of the cabinet is not sitting next to other cabinets). I managed to get the cabinet up but what do you recommend for the legs? Ikea legs won't fit. Should I cut them down? It seems like a lot of weight for the metal supports alone. thanks
Hi Barbara. Thank you for your support of my channel. I appreciate it very much. So, your pantry. A clarifying question. Is it sitting lower than usual because of the soffit on top? In any way, it needs legs. Hanging on the rail only isn't sufficient. Yes, you can cut the Ikea legs shorter. I've done that before. I used a regular hacksaw.
@@kitchensbyrannes yes it is sitting very low due to the soffit and although I had premounted the base piece, the foot is about 1/2 too long at the back and 1.25" too long at the front due to the fact that the floor was tiled at an angle.
Okay, I see. You can definitely cut the leg if needed. I cut it after the two cylindrical parts are assembled but doing them individually is fine too. If you cut with an oscillating tool, the friction between the blade and the plastic may melt and weld the parts together so I usually use a hacksaw.
Thank you. Just something I missed or don't understand. If the plinth is 11cm, will the 82 cm railing hight will be enough? This 82cm Hight is based on which plinth size!? Doesn't the plinth size affect where the rail should be attached?
@@b.a.b7834 You're welcome. Those centimetres always confuse me as I work in inches, but check this video, and the guide on my website mentioned in the video description. ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
If i have 98" ceilings and 40" upper cabinets am i going 60" from the bottom rail or 2.5" from the ceiling? 60" from the bottom rail is 5.5" from the ceiling
I have watched most of your videos and was ready to tackle my laundry room and butler's pantry. Then I opened up the rail and wouldn't you know it...Ikea changed the minimum measurement from the ceiling to 1"! I had already installed the rail measuring 2.5" from the bottom of it. The cabinet hooks can't even attempt to sit on the rail. I'm going to lower the rail 1/2"...but I thought you should know the change and maybe it will save someone else the hassle.
Ikea only changed the instructions and clearly to something impossible to execute. As I remember it, the oneinch is shown from the bottom of the ral to the ceiling. A bit difficult when rail is more than 2" high.
@@kitchensbyrannes No, their minimum from the top of the rail to the ceiling now states 1" instead of the dubious 6/8. I'm wondering if the size of the rail has increased, measuring 2.5" from the bottom of the rail left me less than 1/2" gap to the ceiling.
@HeatherWright4 the instructions found in the Canadian website is still 1" from the bottom. The only reason they pick 1" is to give you clearance to hang the cabinets.
And do you have a video where you show what you're explaining in minute 3:30 about losening the bracket, hold up the cabinet and then securing it again ?
I was intrigued as to why you kept referring to measurements in the somewhat archaic imperial system, even in the UK all trades use metric. Then I realised you're based in the USA.
Hi Ian. Yeah, I know....sorry 😞I was deported from Europe to Canada a good ten years ago, and the imperial infection has gotten the best of me. Even though Canada officially is metric, nobody seems to care. But....I had my old home region in mind when I made this one: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
I'm confident my suspension rail is attached the wall securely....but how much weight can the brackets that screw in to the cabinets hold? As the rail can have lots of attachment points, where as each cabinet only has two (one in each corner).
Great content! Do you know if it's possible to change the position of the rail to be lower? I have pipes passing on the top of the wall so I cannot drill there but still wanted 1meter tall cabinets. Thanks!
Thanks. If you move the rails down the wall, the brackets inside the cabinet must move the same distance, new holes for screws must be drilled, and you must cut a square opening in the back where the rail will engage with the brackets. Not easy but possible.
Hi Rannes. My new-build apartment is under construction currently here in France and the documents say that the partition walls are built with steel studs. Do you have any experience or advice for how to best screw into those? I take your point about not relying on wall anchors but if my wall does not have a horizontal stud in good position for the upper cabinet rail should I suppose installing some sort of anchor between each stud as suggested by IKEA would be a good idea (60cm spacing is standard here but I will check). It would be good to know your preference on drywall anchor types when attaching rails - maybe an idea for a future video? I have also seen people mention adding a second screw to support the bottom edge of the rail on each stud - how do you feel about that approach? Lastly I might be interested in spacing the lower cabinet rail away from the wall 20-30mm as I want a 650mm deep countertop to align with something else in the room and reducing the countertop overhang might be nice. In that case would it be better to attach a small section of wood at each rail screw (like very thick washers) or to first attach a 2x4 to the wall and then the rails to that? Thanks for all of your videos - I'm learning a lot!
Thank you for your question. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful. Metals studs, oh, don't like those. Depending on how far the project is, I would request to have some backing put into the wall. Plywood preferably. If you passed that out, I would do my best with screws into the studs (2 in each stud if possible as you mentione) and some anchors in between. I use the spiral-conical looking ones. However, since you want to push the lower cabinets out 20-30 mm, I wouldn't refrain from adding plywood on the outside of the drywall but only where the cabinets go. The 20 mm it brings out the uppers isn't a problem since the lowers are pushed out too. The plywood can be secured into the studs with a lot more screws than the rail alone. For the base cabinets, I would let a piece of wood run along where the rails go. Much much better than just doing it where the rail screws go.
Hi Rannes. Thanks so much for all your great help videos, they are a service to all. I’m just about to install 2 high pantry cabinets with 400mm cabinets above them and then 2 cabinets between them, where a fridge will be housed under. I’m unsure if I should fit the top rail for the 400mm cabinets first or if I should first for the rail for the high pantry’s first and then the rail for the cupboards above ? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks Nick
Hi Nick, thank you for your feedback. I am happy that you find my videos helpful. I better make that video on stacked cabinets soon, as I get a lot of questions about "how to" with the rails for that specific setup. You want to start by holding your level onto the wall to check if the wall leans forward or backward (seen from the room). If it leans back, start with the lower rail; if it leans forward, start with the upper. Then, shim the next level of rails so the two rails are vertically in line with each other. If you fail to do so, the cabinets will not be flush on the front. And remember that the distance from bottom to bottom of rails (or top to top as that will be the same) must be equal to the height of the top cabinet.
@@kitchensbyrannes Many thanks Rannes. Makes sense, I’ll be sure to make certain the cabinets are level and you’ve answered my questions regards the rail spacing. Much appreciate you sharing your experience and saving everyone lots of headaches !!
Hi I just installed the rail and have the top of the base cabinet to the floor is 34 3/4” without countertop and with the countertop being installed later with the total high 35 5/8” So would like to know this is the regular high for the kitchen? Thanks
If your upper cabinets don’t have a 2X4 running horizontally to grab onto, is there any suggestion to increase screws per distance? Currently only have them screwed to a stud every 16” but worried since the cabinets are heavy and that’s when they’re empty!
If you have a good-quality screw, with a strong grip, in every stud at 16" on center, it is sufficient. You can always add a few wall anchors in between each screw. The anchors won't hold it alone but they'll contribute. kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
I use the one shown at the bottom of this page kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/ I started out with a cheaper one from Canadian Tire which worked fine, but it was more difficult to place a the right height easily as it didn't have the pole.
If you are looking for complete installation instructions for IKEA kitchens stop here at this video series. It's by far the best, most comprehensive, and thorough series on YT that my wife and I have found yet.
Thanks for that, Marty 🙏
You can use it for any kitchen, I have big homework watching all videos, my wife will ditch me.
Bring out the popcorn 🍿😀
I hope your wife is still hanging on 😊
My cabinets arrive in a few days, I’m preparing the room and have already found the sagging ceiling issue… these videos are like being an apprentice to a master craftsman passing on his years of experience
There’s no way I’m even unpacking the boxes until I’ve watched all of these, thank you so much for making these
You're very welcome, Gary.
Reading comments like yours is the real reason that I keep making videos. Well, that, but also the abundance of videos on RUclips showing you many ways you shouldn't do it 🤗
I wish you all the best.
@@kitchensbyrannesm
in my case, I opened a few, one bottom and one upper Metod cabinets just to see how they fit and read the instructions and see how everything goes before I make some irreversible mistakes. Took me a week to study in the evenings but I still had some suspicion on certain steps. Just yesterday, after drawing rail height lines on the wall with a laser I decided to check the internet and found Rannes' channel. How lucky it turns out ! Starting with this video on suspension rails......coming from the old continent, if only all the math would be done in millimeters and not in inches (fractions, even worse😱)...just kidding, it really does not matter in essence.... 😁
coming back here thx to the youtube's push message.... since I am subscribed (and will stay for sure, enjoying new videos)....so, after 8 months, my IKEA kitchen is fully in order and in perfect shape, function and looks.....in many ways thx to Rannes' videos.....amazing how, in spite being pretty sure in my general DIY experience, I found so many revelations that Rannes points out....helping me avoid wrong approach or poor installation (even the choice of better than IKEA supplied parts, like screws in some cases for example).....❤👌
I'm glad your kitchen turned out great for you 😊 and I'm pleased that the videos were a help.
🙏
Thank you for taking the time to share this excellent video with us. I agreed with you in cutting the hanging rails as you suggested and checking the sagging ceilings.
You're very welcome 🤗
Taking the time to watch 'Rannes' video will save you a lot of heartache. Thanks for posting!!!!
You are very welcome. I am happy that you find my videos helpful.
Thank you so much for this one! I can't believe no one, nor Ikea, instructs on how to get as close to the ceiling as possible. I'm ready to start hanging!
You're very welcome.
I'm glad that you find the video useful. Good luck with the installation ☺️
Thanks, great video! I am just about to install my kitchen, and until now I saw at least 10 other videos from experts. Nobody explained all the details as good as you. Thank you very much.
Thanks, Edgar. I'm glad that you find my videos helpful and I appreciate that you take the time to let me know. Good luck with your project 👍
Thank you for taking the time to translate IKEA hieroglyphics to us!!! I completely misinterpreted a picture that you so eloquently clarified and then went further to practically give an explanation on how to do it better! Your content is appreciated! Cheers!
You're very welcome. I'm happy to hear that you find the video about suspension rails useful. All the best with your project.
Sir, as I was about to hang a couple of cabinets, the information you provided was invaluable. I would have stepped into a lot of these pitfalls you are addressing. Thank you for putting in the work for this extremely informative video.
I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful 👍
Good luck with your project.
so glad i watched this before screwing my rails to the wall!! My kitchen sags in every direction and this video saved me a world of hurt!
Thanks. I must have made it with your house in mind ☺️🙏
Luckily I stumbled on YOUR videos specifically covering IKEA kitchens. I do have some general experience and skills (and tools) but boy did I learn some very useful tips and comments of IKEA manuals. Good thing is that I am just preparing for this and mounting rails is among the first steps....and exactly one part that I was scratching my head about....SUPERB !
I'm glad my videos could prevent any head-scratching moments for you! Who knew installing kitchen rails could be so puzzling? Keep watching for more tips and tricks!
Thank you so much for these videos! I will finally began my project in about 2 weeks! (after waiting for 6 months for some missing cabinets). My local IKEA doesn't have installers, so I'm preparing to do it with my husband and adult son. We have put together most of the cabinets, but the rail installation makes me nervous. Thank GOD I have super high ceilings! I'll watch all of your videos and will make my family watch them too.
Hi Ronnie,
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I am happy that you like my videos and find them helpful.
Don't worry about the installation, as long as you have decided to do it RIGHT, it will be fine.
And, don't be shy, send a question if you run into problems. I will be happy to guide you.
All the best with your project.
@@kitchensbyrannes OMG, thank you! I will!
great video! I put an extra screw tight to the bottom of the rail. Into the drywall and stud. You double the holding power from 80 pounds to 160 pounds by doing this.
There you go. Better safe than sorry.
Very useful advice, the question is why IKEA can't help with all of this in the same way.A self-explanatory drawing supplemented with understandable advice would help a lot. Designers should learn to think with the mind of a simple person.Thanks Rannes for the excellent explanations.
Thank you for your comment.
I'm not sure that Ikea wants you to do it yourself since they are in the business of installation, too, as they offer to install the kitchen for you.
When I started out installing Ikea kitchens, I wished that they had better instructions, but after I learned that they actually aren't "Designing for Installation," I am pleased that they focused elsewhere.
@@kitchensbyrannesYeah, Ikea bought the company the recommended for installation and design. So, I can definitely see why they want you to buy the 'professional' installation now.
Incredibly informative, I'm saving this video to rewatch when it comes time to install
Thanks, Marc.
This is fantastic information. I am only installing a small 60" run of uppers and lowers but I live in a 100 year old house, so nothing is square or flat. I wondered about the heights from the ceiling and floors. I haven't opened the boxes yet, but given Ikea instructions, not sure I'd get that information. Thank you so so much for this video!
You're very welcome, Anne.
If you're only having uppers and lowers, but no pantry cabinet connecting those, you'll have no problems... almost 🤗
Just make sure you know where the lowest spot on your ceiling is, and go from there.
This video might help too:
ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Thank you very much for sharing this. This is really helpful. I never did but was thinking to install cabinets.
You're very welcome 🤗
Thank you RUclips! Love this guy, great clarity, precise no nonsense professional selflessly passing on his valuable time learnt skills. What a star! Much appreciated. TY
I appreciate that! 🙏
Very valuable advice. Thank you again. I am a first-timer, but I am making progress like an expert.
I am not going super fast, but always forward!
Thanks again, Paul.
Slow and steady does it.
Good luck with the project.
I think I've watched the video 10 times I finally liked and subscribed.
I appreciate your commitment ☺️🙏
Good video. I'll add that the measurements that you gave at the end of the video (height from baseline) are better than Ikea's instructions also. Ikea recommends 120cm (~47") above the base rail if you have 30" upper cabinets and we found that that is not high enough to provide suitable clearance to the top of the counter. Your suggestion of 50" is right on the money.
@@umchoyka Thanks 👍
What makes this video so awesome it's like every time I go through a project I learned so much but I've made so many mistakes. Thank you so much for showing us the pitfalls and tricks I know it's saved me a ton of time and headaches
Thank you for your feedback. I am happy to hear that you find it helpful.
Quick tip when doing this job alone: once you have placed the horizontal laser line on the wall at the correct height, hammer 3 tiny nails into the wall along the line. You can then rest the rail on the nails, which will make your job easier while you put in all the screws and fine tune the rail's positioning to get perfectly level. What do you think Rannes?
Thanks for the tip.
If it works for you, or others, go for it.
I usually put in the first screw in the middle of the rail and let it hang on that. Then do each end and then the rest.
We are currently building an Ikea kitchen to self install into our house. We have a lot of plasterboard walls (relatively new build house, we moved in 16 years ago when it was new). These tips are amazing, thank you! I need to invest in a stud finder for our wall cabinets. Liked and subscribed
Thanks, I'm glad you like the video.
Good luck with your project 😃
Great video again
Thank you so much. I have a sloping and sagging ceiling and not flat walls so your tips are great. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, Lyndon 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes Your welcome. I forgot to mention that your tip at the very end about how to hang the upper cabinet rail by measuring from the lower base line is one of the best ones. It makes it so much more clear how to do it. I hope IKEA listens. Well done!
I wouldn’t want to install the ikea kitchen without this video 🥴
Thanks Michelle 🙏
Underbar video Lars! Jag är renoverings "contractor" i Peterborough, ON (inte svenskt men bodde där under 10 år).
Tack så mycket, Sam 🇸🇪
just put together my kitchen. A laser level makes it 100x easier to install the rail.
Yes, I agree 100% 👍
Thank you. Your videos have been extremely helpful when installing my Ikea kitchen - much appreciated
My pleasure 👍
Very helpful, just about to fit my first IKEA kitchen! Thanks
You're very welcome.
All the best with your project.
Agreed.......Same problem applies with B&Q and other wall cabinets.
I had no space left for my exact fit wall cabinets so couldn't use the hanging rails. Put corner brackets and screwed directly through these into the wall.
There you go, you found a way!
This is a great video, well explained and easy to understand. Thank you for the time you take to explain why and then how.
Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you find the video helpful.
These videos give me so much confidence to try to tackle my ikea kitchen myself.... I only have a straight 115 inch line, no corners etc... so hopefully with your expertise videos I can do it! :)
if I don't add a pantry cabinet I could follow the 32 3/16 instruction though right? Because my upper cabinets will be installed below a bulkhead so I can't use the ceiling as my measuring point
Of course you can do it 😁
Yes, nothing complicated. 32 3/16" if your floor is in already 👍
Check this too ruclips.net/video/Q-wMScq6S94/видео.htmlsi=QvJ236VT49ZMkXA4
Thank you for sharing you knowledge with us. You are most appreciated. 🙏
My pleasure!
Best IKEA installation video I’ve seen! Thank you!
Thanks, Trina. Your comment means a lot to me 🙏
This guy is the contractor version of Alan Watts! Great Video aswell.
I had to look him up 😔
"self-styled philosophical entertainer."
I'll take it ❤️
Great video @kitchensbyrannes ! Does the same apply for taller (80 inch) cabinets with legs as the base cabinets - that the cabinet does not need to be held by the rail, only the legs? Is it sufficient for one 80 inch x 30 inch tall cabinet if I cut a 29.5 piece of rail attached to 2 studs on the inside of the cabinet brackets (the cabinet has four legs). Thanks!
You're welcome. Yes. For the high cabinets the rail is less important as it stands on four legs, as you mentioned. I only rely on the rail for those for two things. 1) Keep the cabinet hanging until I have placed the legs, and 2) Keep the cabinet from falling forward or to the side i.e. securing it to the wall.
Gosh I wish I had stumbled across your video a long time ago, it would have helped a ton! Nevermind though, I'll save it for the next project. Great logical explanations, thank you so much! 😊
You're very welcome.
That's right, there's always a next one waiting to happen ☺️
very nice info !!! Thank you. Greetings from argentina !!
Thanks, Sebastian. I appreciate your support.
Incredibly informative and very helpful information. Thank you for sharing this!
I am glad that you find it helpful.
My pleasure.
@6:06 the item on top of the Fridge - I think IKEA might call it Musfälla - but I don't think it comes with the rails.🙂
Great video thanks for the really useful tips/advice.
Funny, musfälla means mouse trap in Swedish. 🤣
Thanks for the video. I'll be using this info next week. Do you ever adjust the height for different countertop thicknesses?
You're welcome.
No I don't, as the Ikea system doesn't take that into consideration.
Good information here, but just as an FYI... most installers will tell you that measurements from the ground up assume that you are taking that measurement from the highest point on the floor and using a "level", not a random fixed point from measuring. Your points are valid in terms of saying things will not be squared, but IKEA assumes that you have knowledge of using high-point leveling (they actually provide something like an inch of variance in the length of their legs to account for this. So, at whatever high point along the floor you find, you take the 32 and 3/16 inches and mark the wall there drawing a line across the wall using a long level (preferably at least a 4' level if not a 6' or 8'). If you have the equipment, you can use the laser level at that point as well. You do the same for the upper cabinets as well, but you have to account for the ceiling drop as you mentioned. But you still want to keep the measure according to the floor so the tops of your cabinets do not vary (and the distance between the upper and lower cabinets conforms with your local building codes). And you want to do that at the same point that you did with the lower cabinets. Then you check the distance between the two lines at various points to make sure they're consistent. Install the rails accordingly and check again to make sure the distance between them is consistent again. Do that and you'll have a good installation.
Thanks for sharing, even though I'm not sure what your point is exactly though 🤔
Been reading your comment a few times, and I disagree on a number of thing, but I'll let it be. All the best. 👍
Best video explaining the reasoning system and a great help.
Glad it was helpful!
@@kitchensbyrannes I'm still terrified to do it but i will try.
I'll have to watch this over a few times to be more confident. Lol
Don't be. Easy Peasy 👍 You got this 👍
You fo such a great job. So many helpful hints, so much information to make the job easier. Thank you !
You're very welcome 🤗
great illustrations - terrific presentation - thank you for preparing this 🙂
Your appreciation means a lot! I'm happy to help.
Thanks for posting. I’m total new to this work. What type of screws do you suggest to use to further tightening the rail? Also, what’s your suggestion on filling the ceiling gaps due to the sagging leveling
Thank you for your questions.
For suspension rail screws, I use the ones mentioned at the bottom of this page: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
I always leave the gap between the ceiling and the cabinets open. I think that any material used to close the gap will enhance the difference in height. I believe the shadow is doing a much better job in evening out the "eyesore."
Thankyou. That was easy to understand.
Thanks. 👍🤗
Hi, thank you for your great videos, I have a question, when starting with the lower cabinets, should I add 1/4” to the 32-3/16 to compensate for the new flooring we’ll be adding after the cabinets are installed, please let me know ,, thank you
You're very welcome.
Yes, add the thickness of the floor to 32 3/16" as you wrote 👍
Will be upgrading a kitchen soon and saw your very very useful videos. I’ll definitely be watching the series to ensure I learn all the useful proven tips and guides.
A quick question here - is there an easy way of ‘levelling’ just using spirit level iso a laser level ? Doing one kitchen only so probably not justified to get a laser unit. Advice appreciated. Thanks
Thank you for your feedback.
Sure, leveling with a spirit level is possible, but you'll thank me for recommending getting a laser level since hanging rails and assessment of ceiling and floors are super easy with the laser. Spirit level for these tasks are almost impossible.
@@kitchensbyrannes I’ve taken your advice and purchased a laser level.
Just a query on the height of cabinet (with benchtop). Can you please advise the maximum possible height for ikea metod cabinets & standard ikea legs. I am considering a total height from floor to the top of the benchtop of around 960mm (the height of existing benchtop). And how to achieve this height. Planning to use 38mm thick benchtop. Thank you
Cabinet height. I have to admit, that when it comes to the maximum height adjustability of the Metod legs, I only know what I can read on the Ikea website as I have no experience with those. Here in Canada, we have the Sektion system with different dimensions.
Sorry I cannot be if more help.
That said, keep in mind that if you have wall cabinets too, the distance between the uppers may be reduced unless these will be mounted higher up on the wall too.
This has been really, really helpful. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. Good luck with your project.
Thank you. Very helpful!
You're welcome! 🤗
Thank you sir
You're very welcome 🤗
Thanks for this excellent info. Ihave a question. I'm installing the base cabinets on the floor and have a level area for the most part. I'd like to mount the cabinets to the rail and put 1/4' lattice under the front & back of the base cabinets so no door issues open & closing. How high should the rail be from the floor? I'm using the cabinets for an office and cannot have the countertop height so I've eliminated the legs for leveling.
Okay I see.
The underside of the rail should be 32 3/16" minus 4 ½" plus the thickness of your lattice, from the floor.
Good luck 🤞
Great info, thank you. Thumbs up, Cheers from Osoyoos BC :)
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Good Morning
We are trying to figure out how to hang upper stacked cabinets? Do we start with the lower first? Will they be a tight fit? Thanks so much! We are in the middle of our build. Boxes everywhere lol!
Signed, Mrs Heras
Good morning, Mrs Heras. Your timing is imminent. I am spending my Sunday working on a short video promoting a post on that topic. Check it out below, and make your choices based on your room and setup.
kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
I hope you will find it helpful. Good luck with your project.
Very, very helpful information! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It will help me a lot!
You're very welcome, Donna.
I'm happy to hear that you find the video helpful.
Good luck with the project.
I have not installed kitchen cabinets, but I have done a lot with their other Alex drawer units and storage cabinets. I am wanting to hang some wall units above my washer dryer. I have 60 inches wall-to-wall. I wanted to buy 230 inch cabinets but I’m afraid about getting the cabinet doors open against the walls. I was looking for anything in your videos that might help with that question. you are awesome at explaining everything!
If you have regular doors, on your cabinets, you can get away with almost no clearance to the wall.
If you have 60+ inches from wall to wall, two 30" wide cabinets might work.
Very helpful. Thank you!
My pleasure. Good luck with your project 👍
Great video!! I’m using the ikea cabinets in my laundry room. I have the 40” tall upper cabinets, but i also have tall ceilings so I can’t put them right up to the ceiling. In that case, what would you do for screwing the rail between the studs? Would I have to use wall anchors in that case?
Hi Pamela,
Thanks 👍 and thank you for your question.
If you're using the rights screws and the studs are sitting 16" apart, I normally don't add anchors, but it depends on each individual situation.
I often add an anchor at the end of there's more than 6 inches to a stud with a screw.
I use the anchors mentioned in this article:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Hi, Thanks for the video.. I’m trying to screw only one high cabinet, whether I need rail or I can screw directly to the stud? Luckily I have studs behind each end. If I can screw directly what screw you recommend?
Yes, in that case, rail isn't needed.
Remember to put the black plastic thingy into the brackets, to get the same distance. I regularl 3" long screw for wood, or similar, will work.
I would use the rail though. Much easier as you can hang the cabinet up without the legs, and add legs after. If you go without rail, balancing the cabinet on the legs is a pain.
Hi. Your videos are very informative. Regarding rail height, is the measurement from the unfinished floor under the cabinets or the finished floor that will be what you see? I will have new wood floor installed after the cabinets are in. Thanks for a response.
Thanks.
Yes, when you hang the rails, add the thickness of the floor that'll come in after 👍
Question: The Ikea diagram says 32 3/16, but verbally you said 32 1/2. Is there a reason for this? Just a little confused about that. Thank you for the excellent video with all the tips and tricks! Extremely valuable!
Oh, didn't know. I better watch it again.
32 3/16" is the accurate height from the floor, but a few factors can justify a small variance. Just know that any difference from 32 3/16" will effect the final height of the countertop above the floor.
Also, if you put in a floating floor after the kitchen has been installed, you must offset the height with the thickness of the floor.
Fantastic video. Really informative. Thanks for taking the time. What’s the distance from the bottom of the support rail to the top of the cabinet? Does the top of the rail just sit flush with the top of the cabinet? I would like to instal one cabinet but the bottom of the cabinet has to just clear standard 5.25” baseboards. So I’m trying to figure out how to calculate the height of the rail and where to place it. (Hope that makes sense 😃).
Thank you for your comment. I'm happy that you find this video helpful.
The distance from the bottom of the rail to the top of the cabinet is 2 3/8" and the rail isn't flush with the top of the cabinet. About 1/8" in difference.
If the lower edge of the rail is sitting 32 3/16" from the floor, there's about 4 1/2" from floor to cabinet. If you need 5 1/4" you'll have to add the difference to where the rail sits ie approximately 33" with a bit of safety margin.
But first, but a level on the floor and measure from the highest point.
Good luck with your project.
Thank you so much for the thorough answer. That’s exactly the explanation I needed. The points you made in this response and in the video about using a laser level to measure from the highest points in the project (whether from a slanted floor or sagging celling) is fantastic. Time to start incorporating laser levels in my projects now. Thank you again for sharing your expertise. PS. In the new Sektion Rail instructions, from Ikea online and not the print ones yet, they removed the weird 6/8 fraction and say you need 1” from the ceiling height.
Yeah, you're right. They must have changed it recently because I just copied that picture not long ago.
Oh well, 1" isn't helping either ☺️
would really have appreciated if your measurements had been in cm or mm. It would probably have contributed to several subscribers. best regards from Sweden :)
Hej Sverige. I hear ya!
On this channel, I try to stick with what I know, i.e., share my own experience. Since I work with inches here in Canada, the majority of my videos will use imperial measurements.
However, självklart kommer jag inte svika mina svenska vänner, så kolla in den här: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Thank you very much for an amazing channel. I learned a lot form you. My ceiling is not perfectly horizontal in the direction of the rail, but I installed the rails perfectly leveled. Now, the gap between the ceiling and cabinets on the left is about 3/4" perfect for molding while the right one is only 1/4" too small. I was wondering what you would do in these situation? Thank you
Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful.
The gap.......do nothing 😀
The shadow between the ceiling and the cabinets is doing a much better job than anything else you could think of putting in there.
ruclips.net/video/qAvuCW_3KQ8/видео.htmlsi=5Q2HEFRnRpRiCfdD
did you drill the cabinets to the wall as well or did you used the gray clips ?
Clips only.
Your videos are terrific! I am wondering what type of wall anchors I can use for the rails as my ceiling is vaulted and the number of studs is limited.
Thanks 🙏
The key word in your question is "limited." Any rail I install must be secured into minimum one stud per cabinet, as a rule of my own thumb, and if there's a wall cabinet sitting by itself, two must be the desired minimum.
However, no rules without exceptiond, so every now and then I am faced with a situation where the studs are 24' on center and there's a single 21" or less wide wall cabinet in the plan. Depending on the situation, I sometimes say "no, not possible " and sometimes I use a number of anchors together with one or two securely fastened screws into the one stud available.
All this, and you didn't even ask about that.
The only drywall anchor I use is shown at the bottom of this page:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Super video. Den har reddet mit nye bryggers og min søndag 👍
Tak! Det er godt at høre at jeg kan bidrage til fædrelandets søndagshygge ☺️
Go' arbejdsdag med bryggerset.
Impressive video, I wish I had stomped on it prior to installing the rails and cabinets, I completely missed the fact that the floors are not flat, and I'm currently in the process of redoing everything. A couple of questions though:
1. Do I place the laser level in the center of the room - irrespective of its depth - and set the laser line @32 3/16" and check where it sits 2 ft away from all the walls that have cabinets? Or do I measure it for a single wall and then apply it across the perimeter?
2. My biggest issue is this: Assume one point the laser line sits perfectly at 32 3/16" from the floor, upon installing the railing do I level it based on this height or based on the laser line (even though at other points along the laser line there will be different heights because of the flooring)?
Thank you!
Thanks.
Put your laser at a position where it can cover all wall involved. Any part of the base cabinets connected with the same countertop or stove, must be at same height. If your floor varies a lot, find a good middle ground.
2. All rails follow the laser, not the floor. If not, your hotdog buns will roll of the countertop ☺️
@@kitchensbyrannes Got it! Thank you so much
Thank you for making these useful videos. Would you be able to help me…I am planning to install 3 upper cabinets and a high cabinet. Total wall width is 110 inches. Sum of all cabinet width is 108 inches. How do I cover up the space for the 2 in inches.
You're very welcome.
In most cases, I cut fillers from a 15x90" panel.
As seen here, where I'm installing a filler for a walk cabinet.
ruclips.net/user/shortsa5XLSGjZjew?si=JmiB_ySRhla3CN5H
Du er bare fantastisk - tusind tak for dine råd og forklaringer 👍🏼
Mange tak ☺️
Det glæder mig at du kan lide mine videoer.
OMG, What a beautiful shade of blue, please tell me what shade of blue it is! LOL, I saw upon closer inspection that it is foil.
It's the special Smurf Edition 🤣
Smart points, great video!
Thanks 😊
Thank you. Very useful. I wish you used cm but I appreciate your location.
Tak, Anders.
Du har en pointe med de der centimeter. Jeg vil huske at tilføje centimeter som tekst fremover.
Thanks Anders.
Point taken, I'll remember to add metric values as text going forward.
@@kitchensbyrannes Mange tak!
Nu med centimeter 👍☺️
kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
This video was so helpful thank you.
You're very welcome.
Excellent lesson Boss
Thanks, did you rail it....I mean, nail it? ☺️
Great video! Well done!
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback 🙏
Which fasteners do you recommend to hang the rail to cinderblock walls? I’m thinking of using Tapcon screws? Thoughts?
I'm not sure, Daryl. We don't have those around here in the land of drywall. You better ask at the hardware store.
Thanks for the useful tips. I'm starting to remodel the kitchen too and stumble on your channel. The only issue I face is my wall is not straight, there are two diagonal sides which wall parts away and I have no idea how I can make the fillers between the flat and the diagonal ones. I only see cabinets installed on flat walls and none have diagonal walls which make an angle , I guess I have stop at the intersection on flat one , and install one on the diagonal side and looking how to make a filler. But any advice is greatly appreciated!
Thank you for your comment.
I appreciate your contribution.
The walls. Do you mean that a longer wall is breaking outwards and opening up at some point?
If so, a filler where they meet might be the solution. If possible, you could make the filler 5" wide and put a 5" drawer front on top of it, so it looks like a narrow door. That'll only work for the base cabinets and a 30" high wall cabinet though.
Good luck with your installation.
@@kitchensbyrannes Yes, the 2 walls are at an angle, my cabines are 40 inches high so say I mount both of them, one is facing as normal on straight wall, the other is facing diagonally with the angle. I think I have to make the one in the angle closer as possible so I can put a filler. My old kitchen was custom, so they cut to fit the angle. Unless I have to custom cut a 12x40 inch cabinet to fill the gap and to make it fit the angle? I do have the same problem at the base cabinets but like you say I can use a drawer for that since I need the countertop on it.
@@cpm5303 Ah, I don't follow completely. Fillers are not always easy, so just do your best. That is all we can ask of ourselves 🙂
Thank you. BEST VIDEOS OUT THERE
Wow, thanks!!
I am hanging one rail with two 36 inch cabinets next to each other about 15 inches down from the ceiling. Do I have to concern myself with shimming any gaps? I am thinking not, since it is one rail that the two cabinets will be hanging from. However, I don’t want to be surprised hand have to do it all over. The space I am working in is 74 inches wide.
It depends. Are the gaps you mention between the rail and the wall?
Since you only have two cabinets, you have to be sure that the two ends and the midsection are on the same plane, as that's where the brackets will hang.
That said, you can not make it too flat, and you certainly don't want the midpoint protruding from the two ends as that will leave you with a gap between the cabinets you cannot close with screws without twisting the cabinet boxes.
The short answer: make sure the rail is horizontal and flat
Thanks! About the shims on the wall (see 15:50): How accurate do you select the shims? I bought some shims, and the slimmest version is 1/16” = 1.6mm. Is that accurate enough to shim the rail (on the important points) to be accurate to 1/16”? Or would it be better to have it accurate to 1/32” or 0.5mm or what do you suggest? Thanks
The 1/16" accurate enough. No need to get the thinner ones.
Hi Rannes, any tips for mounting a suspension rail to ensure the distance between the top of a wall cabinet and the ceiling is precise enough to fit a filler panel?
Just add the sickness of the panel to the minimum distance the rail must be from the ceiling.
However, I'm certain it won't look nice unless of course your house has perfectly horizontal ceilings, because you're certainly not going to let the rail follow the ceiling, right?
Great video! What screws are you using to screw the rail on the wall?
Thank you.
For stud wall I use this screw:
B&C Eagle WoodPro Fasteners ST14X212-50PC 1/4-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch Length Round Washer Head Exterior Wood Screws, 50-Pack a.co/d/f9YGm5t
Watched many of your excellent videos. Doing my own ikea kitchen. I have a 90" cabinet to the right of the fridge and a soffit of 93.75-94'"(the bottom edge of the cabinet is not sitting next to other cabinets). I managed to get the cabinet up but what do you recommend for the legs? Ikea legs won't fit. Should I cut them down? It seems like a lot of weight for the metal supports alone. thanks
Hi Barbara.
Thank you for your support of my channel. I appreciate it very much.
So, your pantry. A clarifying question. Is it sitting lower than usual because of the soffit on top?
In any way, it needs legs. Hanging on the rail only isn't sufficient.
Yes, you can cut the Ikea legs shorter. I've done that before. I used a regular hacksaw.
@@kitchensbyrannes yes it is sitting very low due to the soffit and although I had premounted the base piece, the foot is about 1/2 too long at the back and 1.25" too long at the front due to the fact that the floor was tiled at an angle.
Okay, I see.
You can definitely cut the leg if needed. I cut it after the two cylindrical parts are assembled but doing them individually is fine too.
If you cut with an oscillating tool, the friction between the blade and the plastic may melt and weld the parts together so I usually use a hacksaw.
Great video, very helpful, thank you
You're very welcome 🤗
Thank you. Just something I missed or don't understand. If the plinth is 11cm, will the 82 cm railing hight will be enough? This 82cm Hight is based on which plinth size!? Doesn't the plinth size affect where the rail should be attached?
@@b.a.b7834 You're welcome.
Those centimetres always confuse me as I work in inches, but check this video, and the guide on my website mentioned in the video description.
ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
...very helpful! 👍
Thanks 👍
If i have 98" ceilings and 40" upper cabinets am i going 60" from the bottom rail or 2.5" from the ceiling? 60" from the bottom rail is 5.5" from the ceiling
It depends. If you have 90" pantries, keep the 60" between the rails. If not, you can move the uppers up.
I have watched most of your videos and was ready to tackle my laundry room and butler's pantry. Then I opened up the rail and wouldn't you know it...Ikea changed the minimum measurement from the ceiling to 1"! I had already installed the rail measuring 2.5" from the bottom of it. The cabinet hooks can't even attempt to sit on the rail. I'm going to lower the rail 1/2"...but I thought you should know the change and maybe it will save someone else the hassle.
Ikea only changed the instructions and clearly to something impossible to execute.
As I remember it, the oneinch is shown from the bottom of the ral to the ceiling. A bit difficult when rail is more than 2" high.
@@kitchensbyrannes No, their minimum from the top of the rail to the ceiling now states 1" instead of the dubious 6/8. I'm wondering if the size of the rail has increased, measuring 2.5" from the bottom of the rail left me less than 1/2" gap to the ceiling.
@HeatherWright4 the instructions found in the Canadian website is still 1" from the bottom.
The only reason they pick 1" is to give you clearance to hang the cabinets.
And do you have a video where you show what you're explaining in minute 3:30 about losening the bracket, hold up the cabinet and then securing it again ?
No, no such video, as you remove the two lowermost screws at each side, swivel the bracket up a bit and lift the cabinet up on the rail.
I was intrigued as to why you kept referring to measurements in the somewhat archaic imperial system, even in the UK all trades use metric. Then I realised you're based in the USA.
Hi Ian. Yeah, I know....sorry 😞I was deported from Europe to Canada a good ten years ago, and the imperial infection has gotten the best of me. Even though Canada officially is metric, nobody seems to care.
But....I had my old home region in mind when I made this one: ruclips.net/video/BixkS8JM3lE/видео.html
Canada is not USA
I'm confident my suspension rail is attached the wall securely....but how much weight can the brackets that screw in to the cabinets hold? As the rail can have lots of attachment points, where as each cabinet only has two (one in each corner).
Hi Liam.
I don't have the answer to that question as Ikea doesn't share the load capacity. Sorry 😔
You're very welcome.
Great content! Do you know if it's possible to change the position of the rail to be lower? I have pipes passing on the top of the wall so I cannot drill there but still wanted 1meter tall cabinets. Thanks!
Thanks.
If you move the rails down the wall, the brackets inside the cabinet must move the same distance, new holes for screws must be drilled, and you must cut a square opening in the back where the rail will engage with the brackets.
Not easy but possible.
@@kitchensbyrannesthanks so much for the quick answer.
You're very welcome.
I'll put "move rail brackets inside cabinets" video on my list 👍
Hi Rannes. My new-build apartment is under construction currently here in France and the documents say that the partition walls are built with steel studs. Do you have any experience or advice for how to best screw into those?
I take your point about not relying on wall anchors but if my wall does not have a horizontal stud in good position for the upper cabinet rail should I suppose installing some sort of anchor between each stud as suggested by IKEA would be a good idea (60cm spacing is standard here but I will check). It would be good to know your preference on drywall anchor types when attaching rails - maybe an idea for a future video? I have also seen people mention adding a second screw to support the bottom edge of the rail on each stud - how do you feel about that approach?
Lastly I might be interested in spacing the lower cabinet rail away from the wall 20-30mm as I want a 650mm deep countertop to align with something else in the room and reducing the countertop overhang might be nice. In that case would it be better to attach a small section of wood at each rail screw (like very thick washers) or to first attach a 2x4 to the wall and then the rails to that?
Thanks for all of your videos - I'm learning a lot!
Thank you for your question. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
Metals studs, oh, don't like those.
Depending on how far the project is, I would request to have some backing put into the wall. Plywood preferably. If you passed that out, I would do my best with screws into the studs (2 in each stud if possible as you mentione) and some anchors in between. I use the spiral-conical looking ones.
However, since you want to push the lower cabinets out 20-30 mm, I wouldn't refrain from adding plywood on the outside of the drywall but only where the cabinets go. The 20 mm it brings out the uppers isn't a problem since the lowers are pushed out too.
The plywood can be secured into the studs with a lot more screws than the rail alone.
For the base cabinets, I would let a piece of wood run along where the rails go. Much much better than just doing it where the rail screws go.
Thanks for the tips Rannes. I'll try to ask someone local about the metal studs too.
Hi Rannes. Thanks so much for all your great help videos, they are a service to all.
I’m just about to install 2 high pantry cabinets with 400mm cabinets above them and then 2 cabinets between them, where a fridge will be housed under. I’m unsure if I should fit the top rail for the 400mm cabinets first or if I should first for the rail for the high pantry’s first and then the rail for the cupboards above ? Your advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Nick
Hi Nick, thank you for your feedback.
I am happy that you find my videos helpful. I better make that video on stacked cabinets soon, as I get a lot of questions about "how to" with the rails for that specific setup.
You want to start by holding your level onto the wall to check if the wall leans forward or backward (seen from the room). If it leans back, start with the lower rail; if it leans forward, start with the upper. Then, shim the next level of rails so the two rails are vertically in line with each other. If you fail to do so, the cabinets will not be flush on the front. And remember that the distance from bottom to bottom of rails (or top to top as that will be the same) must be equal to the height of the top cabinet.
@@kitchensbyrannes
Many thanks Rannes. Makes sense, I’ll be sure to make certain the cabinets are level and you’ve answered my questions regards the rail spacing. Much appreciate you sharing your experience and saving everyone lots of headaches !!
@@nickjones9505 you're very welcome 👍
Hi
I just installed the rail and have the top of the base cabinet to the floor is 34 3/4” without countertop and with the countertop being installed later with the total high 35 5/8”
So would like to know this is the regular high for the kitchen? Thanks
Yes, that's about right?
Perfecto! Thank you 👍
My pleasure 🤗
If your upper cabinets don’t have a 2X4 running horizontally to grab onto, is there any suggestion to increase screws per distance? Currently only have them screwed to a stud every 16” but worried since the cabinets are heavy and that’s when they’re empty!
If you have a good-quality screw, with a strong grip, in every stud at 16" on center, it is sufficient. You can always add a few wall anchors in between each screw. The anchors won't hold it alone but they'll contribute.
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
What is the laser level that you use? Or recommend a cheap one?
I use the one shown at the bottom of this page kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
I started out with a cheaper one from Canadian Tire which worked fine, but it was more difficult to place a the right height easily as it didn't have the pole.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you !
did you used the gray clips to install the top cabinets or did you screw them to the wall
Yes, when the cabinets are hanging on the rail, the grey clip locks it in position. No screws needed.