I don’t like any handle with the “pocket catcher” ends. I only use round knobs in wall cabinets or on my old kitchen base doors below the drawer because the are too low to catch my pockets.
I didn't want two seperate panels on the end of my island so I ordered an extra piece of island worktop and plan on fitting it on the end of the cabinets from floor to top of cabinets vertically just under the island worktop which will come out over the end panel. I think it is called a waterfall worktop.
Great job on the Ikea cabinet vids.. I do a lot of the same tweaks as you have in clients homes. Question my biggest pet peeve is the flimsy backs. I like the Carcasses price points but the backs become an issue for me. Ever replaced the backs or added to the backs to firm them up.
Thanks. The back is fine. The only two purposes of the back are to 1) keep the cabinet box rigid, which is does, and 2) prevent your chips or other snack fall down behind the cabinet, which it does too, so no, I happy with them as they are 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the reply. I have run into walls with 24 inch centres and the cabinet has to hang inside those stud areas. 12 wide and 15 wide and or a 18 wide… These are free floating cabinets on a wall, NO cabinet beside or wall to secure. No top plate to hit. 96 high walls. 30 inch high cabinets
@@kitchensbyrannes I watched your rail vids on install . How do you catch the corner studs on a 90 wall. End cabinet..The boxes are 3/4 thick and adding a 1/2 inch for the rail forgiveness for leeway. Plus I have 5/8 end panel against the wall…I’m missing the corner stud to grab the rail secure… This would be a 30 inch tall upper cabinet. Can’t catch the top plate
Hi, love the tips. For the decor strip, I have high cabinet and probably between 3/4 and 1 inch left from ceiling, how do you cover it? It can be done, right? Thanks.
@@seumasnassar5963 in a very few occasions I've installed a panel under a wall cabinet but for the same reasons that I don't line the strip on top, I avoid doing it if I can.
I have just slightly under ~106.5" ceilings and am planning a stacked upper cabinet setup, what's your recommendation for how to get that full to the ceiling look? 30+15 with a moulding to bridge the gap (can I use toe kick?) or 30+20 and really hug the ceiling like you've done here?
Thank you Rannes for sharing your knowledge with us. We are going to redo our kitchen and I am measuring, thinking, planning, etc. Based on the layout at 11.51, according to my calculations (and conversions from inch to cm) the distance between the top of the base cabinet and bottom of the wall cabinet will be 54,23 cm (assuming the legs are full 8 cm). Is that a right assumption? I calculate with 100cm wall cabinets (the ceiling is at 273 cm, so plenty of room up there). I am also wondering what is the distance from bottom of the rail and top of the cabinet (I assume base and wall cabinets will have the same)? If you already discuss this in your videos, I will be gratefull if you would just share the link or title here. Thank you very much and greetings from Hungary.
I found the answer to my question in your rail guide. The distance is always 60cm (the distance between the base and wall cabinet) plus the size of the wall cabinet. so it is 60+100 cm in my case.
Hi, did you try to connect two cabinets back to back using the regular metal angle uses to hang to the rail but add the plastic gages with hole to make the right distance, then connect them with clamping bolts passing through those holes? hope i was clear. you are great! thank you very much!
Thank you for your question. No, I never do it that way as the lower part won't be connected. I use the SEKTION Assembly kit for kitchen island (002.984.11) which I mount so it's protruding the thickness of the mdf-strip from the cabinet at the top, and double up at the bottom, as this will provide the same distance between the cabinets, but it'll give a much stronger connection. If it's a full depth cabinet back to back with a shallow, I put the 15" panel on the side of the full one and the 25" panel on the shallow so the joint is on the side of the full depth cabinet, which will give you a perfect panel connection. I never cut the panels where they meet vertically. I hope all this makes sense. Maybe I should make a video on the topic? 🤔
I’m curious about your comment on the deco strips. My kitchen is 8’ 6” tall, so I have plenty of space above 40” wall cabinets to the ceiling. I don’t like a gap between the top of cabinets and the ceiling where dust and grime can collect. I also just don’t like that look. If the cabinets are square and plumb and the doors are adjusted to the cabinets I don’t understand why there would be a problem with something above the cabinets that is flush to the front of the doors. Are you saying it’s because with use the doors get out of alignment and have to be fiddled with from time to time? It seems like that would be an issue with or without trim. My plan had been to surround the cabinets with trim that is flush to the front of the upper cabinet doors, with the area above the cabinets boxed to the ceiling with molding at the ceiling level, bottom trim to hide under cabinet lights and a side panel at the only open end of the run from the ceiling to the bottom of the under cabinet trim. I’ve seen this treatment in IKEA kitchen pictures in their catalog and it gave the appearance of inset doors, which is more traditional and appealing to me. Now I’m wondering about what that would mean after watching this video. Since you are so particular on level and plumb installation I’m having trouble understanding why it would be a problem in a kitchen where there is sufficient room above the cabinet.
Hi Trina, I hear you and share your idea if "Everything is horizontal, square, plumb and adjusted to A+. However, that is not a reality. Despite my efforts to be super meticulous while installing, it takes nothing to puncture that paradigm. Boxes are not 100% square, and even when shimming out to perfection, they don't always line up perfectly. Also, if you ever have hung a box from China next to a box manufactured in France or the USA, you will know that sometimes 40" is different from one cabinet to another. Of course, getting a good result with the trim you describe is possible, but it will require a decent amount of thin shims and a significant portion of patience. With 102 inches to the ceiling, have you considered using 30+15 as uppers? This will bring you close to 100", depending on how horizontal your room is.
I have not considered the 30” plus 15” because (at least in the US) the 15” high cabinets are not available narrower than 30”. I would have two 24” wide and one 30” wide wall cabinet in my run. Because it is an old house and I’m sure the ceiling is probably not level the further the top of the cabinets are from the ceiling the less noticeable that will be.
@@trinaroe5132 It's the same as here in Canada. You can, however, get 20" high, 24" wide cabinets and cut them to 15"in height. You know where to find a video showing just that. I would do nothing if I had 2-4 inches on top of my wall cabinets. I would leave it open, as I find that the shadow does a much better job than anything you fill in there, even if the ceiling isn't horizontal.
It depends. If you like it, then yes. If you don't, then no. If my clients have under-cabinet lights from Ikea, most of them agree with me that "we don't like that strip, the valence."
Not sure why you find deco strips a difficult fit (with 8’ all the way across). Deco strips on the bottom will hide under cabinet picks which provide immense visual snap to a kitchen cabinet layout. Upper deco strips that are off from front to back are a simple saw cut. Just seems like your installing IKEA cabinets is based upon what works for you, not the customer. That being said, your other points are praise worthy.
Thanks, I am glad that you like some of it :-) I don't think you're right about the "what works for me..." opinion. If the client wants it, they get it. I share my opinion, and the client decides. That's how it always is. I, being Scandinavian, am not a big fan of the North American shaker look, and maybe my strong opinion spills over. Whether the deco strip makes the kitchen look better or not is a personal opinion, and I can see from what the client chose that it's not as popular as it used to be. To many clients, "less is more."
I’m sorry. I realize English might not be your first language but I found your narrative hard to follow. You kept referring to “this thing” without a visual aid.
That's the charm of RUclips, you get to watch people from all over the world, doing their thing in their very own way. Consider it to be a quiz, where you have to figure out what "this thing" is 😊 Jokes aside, which of the many things are you referring to?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow! You have no idea how helpful you are. Thank you so much for your ideas . . . they're indispensable.
Thank you for your valuable feedback. I am glad that some of what I say makes sense 🙂
Your tips about deco strips were incredibly helpful. Deco strips were crucial for my kitchen design plan. Now I need to reconsider it. Thank you!
You're very welcome 🤗
Good luck with your project.
looked great at my ikea but no corners
This was a terrific video, I will check the rest of your videos out
Thanks again, Marc. I appreciate your support and feedback ☺️
I don’t like any handle with the “pocket catcher” ends. I only use round knobs in wall cabinets or on my old kitchen base doors below the drawer because the are too low to catch my pockets.
Say no to pocket-catching handles! Round knobs are the way to go :-)
I didn't want two seperate panels on the end of my island so I ordered an extra piece of island worktop and plan on fitting it on the end of the cabinets from floor to top of cabinets vertically just under the island worktop which will come out over the end panel. I think it is called a waterfall worktop.
Yup, that's an option too. 👍
Great job on the Ikea cabinet vids.. I do a lot of the same tweaks as you have in clients homes. Question my biggest pet peeve is the flimsy backs. I like the Carcasses price points but the backs become an issue for me. Ever replaced the backs or added to the backs to firm them up.
Thanks.
The back is fine. The only two purposes of the back are to 1) keep the cabinet box rigid, which is does, and 2) prevent your chips or other snack fall down behind the cabinet, which it does too, so no, I happy with them as they are 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the reply. I have run into walls with 24 inch centres and the cabinet has to hang inside those stud areas. 12 wide and 15 wide and or a 18 wide… These are free floating cabinets on a wall, NO cabinet beside or wall to secure. No top plate to hit. 96 high walls. 30 inch high cabinets
That's a NO for me.
@@kitchensbyrannes I watched your rail vids on install . How do you catch the corner studs on a 90 wall. End cabinet..The boxes are 3/4 thick and adding a 1/2 inch for the rail forgiveness for leeway. Plus I have 5/8 end panel against the wall…I’m missing the corner stud to grab the rail secure… This would
be a 30 inch tall upper cabinet. Can’t catch the top plate
So....🤔
Long screw in a flat angle towards the corner....no?
Hi, love the tips. For the decor strip, I have high cabinet and probably between 3/4 and 1 inch left from ceiling, how do you cover it? It can be done, right? Thanks.
Short answer;I don't.
A shadow is doing a great job even out the the gap. Filling it up will create a visual eyesore in my opinion.
@@kitchensbyrannes do you ever install a door or cover panels bottom and top of the cabinets to frame in the cabinet?
@@seumasnassar5963 in a very few occasions I've installed a panel under a wall cabinet but for the same reasons that I don't line the strip on top, I avoid doing it if I can.
I have just slightly under ~106.5" ceilings and am planning a stacked upper cabinet setup, what's your recommendation for how to get that full to the ceiling look? 30+15 with a moulding to bridge the gap (can I use toe kick?) or 30+20 and really hug the ceiling like you've done here?
I would definitely do 30+20" so you're as close as it gets. And as you probably know already, I'll leave the remaining 1-1½" open.
Thank you Rannes for sharing your knowledge with us. We are going to redo our kitchen and I am measuring, thinking, planning, etc. Based on the layout at 11.51, according to my calculations (and conversions from inch to cm) the distance between the top of the base cabinet and bottom of the wall cabinet will be 54,23 cm (assuming the legs are full 8 cm). Is that a right assumption? I calculate with 100cm wall cabinets (the ceiling is at 273 cm, so plenty of room up there). I am also wondering what is the distance from bottom of the rail and top of the cabinet (I assume base and wall cabinets will have the same)? If you already discuss this in your videos, I will be gratefull if you would just share the link or title here. Thank you very much and greetings from Hungary.
You're very welcome.
Oh, challenging me with centimeters 😱
Check this: kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
I found the answer to my question in your rail guide. The distance is always 60cm (the distance between the base and wall cabinet) plus the size of the wall cabinet. so it is 60+100 cm in my case.
Hi, did you try to connect two cabinets back to back using the regular metal angle uses to hang to the rail but add the plastic gages with hole to make the right distance, then connect them with clamping bolts passing through those holes? hope i was clear. you are great! thank you very much!
Thank you for your question.
No, I never do it that way as the lower part won't be connected.
I use the SEKTION Assembly kit for kitchen island (002.984.11) which I mount so it's protruding the thickness of the mdf-strip from the cabinet at the top, and double up at the bottom, as this will provide the same distance between the cabinets, but it'll give a much stronger connection.
If it's a full depth cabinet back to back with a shallow, I put the 15" panel on the side of the full one and the 25" panel on the shallow so the joint is on the side of the full depth cabinet, which will give you a perfect panel connection.
I never cut the panels where they meet vertically.
I hope all this makes sense.
Maybe I should make a video on the topic? 🤔
I’m curious about your comment on the deco strips. My kitchen is 8’ 6” tall, so I have plenty of space above 40” wall cabinets to the ceiling. I don’t like a gap between the top of cabinets and the ceiling where dust and grime can collect. I also just don’t like that look. If the cabinets are square and plumb and the doors are adjusted to the cabinets I don’t understand why there would be a problem with something above the cabinets that is flush to the front of the doors. Are you saying it’s because with use the doors get out of alignment and have to be fiddled with from time to time? It seems like that would be an issue with or without trim. My plan had been to surround the cabinets with trim that is flush to the front of the upper cabinet doors, with the area above the cabinets boxed to the ceiling with molding at the ceiling level, bottom trim to hide under cabinet lights and a side panel at the only open end of the run from the ceiling to the bottom of the under cabinet trim. I’ve seen this treatment in IKEA kitchen pictures in their catalog and it gave the appearance of inset doors, which is more traditional and appealing to me. Now I’m wondering about what that would mean after watching this video. Since you are so particular on level and plumb installation I’m having trouble understanding why it would be a problem in a kitchen where there is sufficient room above the cabinet.
Hi Trina,
I hear you and share your idea if "Everything is horizontal, square, plumb and adjusted to A+. However, that is not a reality.
Despite my efforts to be super meticulous while installing, it takes nothing to puncture that paradigm.
Boxes are not 100% square, and even when shimming out to perfection, they don't always line up perfectly. Also, if you ever have hung a box from China next to a box manufactured in France or the USA, you will know that sometimes 40" is different from one cabinet to another.
Of course, getting a good result with the trim you describe is possible, but it will require a decent amount of thin shims and a significant portion of patience.
With 102 inches to the ceiling, have you considered using 30+15 as uppers? This will bring you close to 100", depending on how horizontal your room is.
I have not considered the 30” plus 15” because (at least in the US) the 15” high cabinets are not available narrower than 30”. I would have two 24” wide and one 30” wide wall cabinet in my run. Because it is an old house and I’m sure the ceiling is probably not level the further the top of the cabinets are from the ceiling the less noticeable that will be.
Maybe an option would be to box in above flush with the front of the cabinet box and do the same with the light valance??
@@trinaroe5132 It's the same as here in Canada. You can, however, get 20" high, 24" wide cabinets and cut them to 15"in height. You know where to find a video showing just that. I would do nothing if I had 2-4 inches on top of my wall cabinets. I would leave it open, as I find that the shadow does a much better job than anything you fill in there, even if the ceiling isn't horizontal.
@@trinaroe5132 Yes, some folks like that. I am not a fan but hey....not my kitchen 🙂
Hi. Question: do I need the strip to cover the under the cabinets lights or they are not necessary? 🤔
It depends. If you like it, then yes. If you don't, then no.
If my clients have under-cabinet lights from Ikea, most of them agree with me that "we don't like that strip, the valence."
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you 😊🙏
Not sure why you find deco strips a difficult fit (with 8’ all the way across). Deco strips on the bottom will hide under cabinet picks which provide immense visual snap to a kitchen cabinet layout. Upper deco strips that are off from front to back are a simple saw cut. Just seems like your installing IKEA cabinets is based upon what works for you, not the customer. That being said, your other points are praise worthy.
Thanks, I am glad that you like some of it :-)
I don't think you're right about the "what works for me..." opinion.
If the client wants it, they get it.
I share my opinion, and the client decides. That's how it always is. I, being Scandinavian, am not a big fan of the North American shaker look, and maybe my strong opinion spills over.
Whether the deco strip makes the kitchen look better or not is a personal opinion, and I can see from what the client chose that it's not as popular as it used to be. To many clients, "less is more."
I’m sorry. I realize English might not be your first language but I found your narrative hard to follow. You kept referring to “this thing” without a visual aid.
That's the charm of RUclips, you get to watch people from all over the world, doing their thing in their very own way. Consider it to be a quiz, where you have to figure out what "this thing" is 😊
Jokes aside, which of the many things are you referring to?