If you find the Bronica in mirror lock-up, flick the multiple exposure switch. If you then take the picture with your lens cap on and rewind, you're still in the same frame! Another thing you can do is just to take the back off. Hope this helps
@@aows also an IMPORTANT tip here, unlike all dslrs and slr cameras, these bronicas DON'T reset to NORMAL operation when winding on!- IF the M-UP switch is still at C position!! the mirror re-raises as part of the cocking cycle! so set this function OFF before winding.
I bought my SQ-Ai in 1998 and used it for about 5 years before switching to a Leica M6. The Bronica has sat in it's Pelican case for years but I just pulled it out and am wanting to shoot with it again. Your video was a good refresher on its functions. Thanks!
Well I'll be damned. I've been shooting a pair of SQ-A bodies with I think 8 different lenses for three years now and not once did I ever notice a DOF switch on the lenses. Nifty and useful. Thanks for pointing that out. Great videos.
I got my SQ a couple of years ago. I fell in love with it. To the point of buying a 150 lens, second film back, and waist level view finder. Then I bought an S2A, which I also fell in love with. I mean, all that chrome. It's like a 57 Plymouth. So then, I had to get an ETR. Love them all! Great video. Thanks.
Great video and tips! I just bought SQ-Ai a few weeks ago and it's been a blast taking photos with it. I haven't experimented yet with long exposures so explanations about the A vs. T mode switch on the lense and mirror modes were very useful information. 👍
Awesome! I'm really glad you are enjoying this beautiful camera! I'll be posting videos about long exposures in the future, but if you have any questions before that, don't hesitate to ask!
A good video - thanks. On the viewfinder point, with a square format and a waist-level finder you could turn the camera on its side or even upside down to get a higher viewpoint rather than looking down into it. I have never tried it though I have to admit and certainly many tripods might struggle to support the camera well.
That's a very good idea, Bill! I've shot upside down before, but handholding the camera. Never thought about turning it on the side to get a higher point of view. I would usually switch the finder (I have a prism finder but it's not with me as of right now). Thanks for the tip, very useful!
This afternoon I got my first Bronica- The SQ-Ai as well :) I've been using your videos to learn about this camera and I really appreciate everything you have to offer :) Thanks!
Very useful. Today I was looking to that T mode switch in my lenses and wondering what’s it for... here is the answer! Recently I bought a SQ-AI and your videos have been very helpful. The results on your IG page are awesome 👌🏻
If your mirror is locked, than just remove filmback (maybe change to empty filmback) , turn off mirror lock and put back filmback with film you are shooting at
@@aows On the S lens, you have to loosen a screw to let you move the lever over to the T position. But as the previous commenter said, my 80/2.8 Zenzanon-S does have T mode.
i owned the pentax 6x7 before and i have to say i like the bronica gs 1 way more. having multiple film backs while shooting is a big plus for me. i never had the chance to shoot with a sq
For sure, I can see that. I own two, so I can either shoot two different speeds or just have one ready to go (not easy to load more film when it's windy, or rainy, or both, or worse...).
It's a good video, the part about some Mamiya's you can take a picture with the darkslide in that is only the case if you set up the RZ67 Pro with shooting with no battery. In short, we have very interesting picks with film cameras I enjoy many of them from the 30ies to some of the modern cameras from sub-cameras to large format.
Nice video! I am a Bronica SQ-A shooter and I agree with your tips. My two cents: I noticed you make it a habit of inserting a dark slide into the back even when you're not changing backs. Bronica's user manual recommends--and I tend to agree--not to do that because the film back may get accidentally knocked off if something hit the release button.
good point, HOWEVER for film cameras with a darkslide esp MF cameras, this is a GOOD practice, due to the fact not many posess a shutter button lock!, THE DARKSLIDE is a 'backup' safeguard for us, so if in a bag the camera moves, a shot won't be wasted. Also this advise is better suited to the S \ S2 and S2a cameras (older 6x6 varients of the SQ, the SQ is a modernisation of this design); in THESE {S/S2} there is an interesting feature of the magasine system, the DARKSLIDE acts as the back release button also, (last 2 mm of travel)-but is sping loaded, so I get the application of this tip here, as these also have a 'pocket' in the back door to store the slide in, so there is then no reason to do this (for the reason that there is no other place to store the slide, or to prevent one from misplacing it). but for the bronica SQ, as well as it's siblings the GS and the ETR cameras, they are electronic shutter timing and Firing!, so have a 'hair trigger' , so the use of a Double safety aproach is warrented here, For my two cents.
The T mode on the lens is what you use on the sq-a version as a bulb. It is the same on the etrs and etrsi. The mirror lock up has s and c. S means that the mirror will return in the normal position after re-cocking the shutter and c means that the mirror will stay up after re-cocking the shutter. You don't have to waste a shot. Simply take the photo with the lens cap on the lens. Then take the back off and re-cock the shutter. This is how it works on my Hasselblad, but sure it should work in a similar way on your Bronica. Hope this helps?
Thanks, Michiel! That tip seems to be the right one! I'll be trying that the next time I accidentally move the switch, hopefully no more wasted shots :)
Taking delivery 2morro of my ZB SQ MF (original model). Can’t w8. Looking 4ward making “arty” square images 4 artwork 2 mount around the cottage. Relative newbie but been experimenting with Square images on my phone. Polaroid back included .. bonus👍. Waist level finder & winder crank handle are my 1st priority gets.
Just got the Sq-a body and lens. Been gathering backs etc. As of 2022 waist level finders are stil $$$$$. Junky for $100-150 and mint $200-300. And basic prism finders for $5o - 100
Hello I'm Erwin and I live in Germany and I've already watched a number of your videos. I always found them interesting. Yesterday I exchanged one of my Mamiya 645 super for a Zenza Bronica SQ Ai and the Bronica is in very good condition including the ME prism finder S and MF-Finder S. I'm just getting to know the special features. The work is a little different than with the Mamiya's (645 100S, 645 super, RB 67, each with different lenses). Unfortunately I can only take photos with one camera at a time :-). I had been aware of the mirror-up problem before, and I heard from another Bronica photographer a solution on how to switch to normal mode without loss of image if you accidentally cock the shutter before the mirror is in normal position became. Your video was shot in 2018, of course, and you may have already come up with the solution yourself. Forgive me if I put familiar things here. Now: Put the lens cap on the lens, press the multi-release lever down, cock the shutter (film is not transported), set the mirror lock back to normal (N) and release the shutter, then also return the multi-release lever to its original position and tighten the fastener again. Now the next subject can be photographed. The next time the shutter is wound, the film will continue to advance normally. If it helped you, I would be happy. Or it helps a reader - that would be nice too. Regards Erwin from Mannheim, Germany
Thanks, yes I learned something new. I have one but I have not devoted much time to it. Please, if you could show more about its use and the filters, I would like it. Where you process the films? At home or in the laboratory.
Hey Olga! Sure, I'll be talking much more about the camera soon. I do develop my film at home, I have a short video showing how I do it ruclips.net/video/OSocR6xcxf8/видео.html as I said I'll be posting more videos about the camera but please don't hesitate to ask!
Can you trip the shutter with the back off? If you can then next time the mirror is up by accident, take the back off with the darkslide in and fire the camera to reset it. I would love to see a video about shooting and composing square, I just got a 6x6 and would appreciate some tips!
Thanks, Joseph! That might do it, and I'll try that next time it happens, for sure. Thanks so much! That video is on the list :) I think it's a very interesting topic, I absolutely love the square format and I think there's a lot to be said about it.
for the mirror lockup issue could you just put the camera in double exposure mode then cover the lens with the cap and take the shot then wind on and take it out of double exposure setting so basically the film didn't move at all and you don't waste the shot?
Great video, many thanks for the tips. I recently got a Bronica SQ-A and so I'm always interested in learning more about it. I have a Zenzanon S 150mm and it DOES have the time exposure switch. I need to look out for a prism. I have one for my Mamiya 645 and I agree it's a useful viewfinder for certain compositions. I do prefer the WLF when possible though. Love your videos, keep up the great work!
Not yet I'm afraid. I've just shot a second roll but I've not had a chance to spend time in the darkroom yet (or scan them). When I do, I'll post them to my Flickr if you're interested: www.flickr.com/photos/jameslp/
Thank you, James! It's good to know that the S lenses also have that switch - I figured since that'd be the only way to take exposures longer than a few seconds, but I had no idea :) Yeah, I *love* the waist level finder, I take most of my photos with it, but the prism one can be very handy for some situations. You just need to remember to bring it with you :P
I shoot with the Bronica GS-1. This camera is really great to shoot with... it takes 6x7, 6x6, and 645 backs giving me three cameras in one... Plus the eye level prism is metered. I don’t like Lee or Cokin filters.. because the filters are a plastic resin. Why shoot with good glass and then put a plastic filter in front of it..... B+W (Schneider) have great round glass filters for a good price. You can find them used on Ebay too for about $15-30 each. Schneider also make great square glass filters but they are very expensive. An alternative is a company called Haida that also make very good square glass filters for a really good price.. around $80-100 each.. I use Schneider B+W and Haida...Glass filters are the way to go.
Nice camera! Don't forget about the Polaroid backs, and maybe 35mm? There are some 35mm film backs for the SQ models so you can shoot panoramic photos. They are really expensive so I probably won't be trying one of them anytime soon, but I've been tempted! About the filters, that's a fair point: they do decrease the IQ. To be honest it's not that bad, I can't notice it unless you really pixel peep. I use the square ones because they are really easy to use along with the ND filters using the Lee mount, but I'll be looking at those B+Ws filters for regular shooting (I'm using those cheap ones from Amazon that are just fine, but they are all scratched and need new ones). Thanks for the recommendation!
The 35mm Bronica backs are obscenely expensive, but if you want to shoot 35mm film with the sprocket holes showing, then there's an album on Flickr from user 'Willis' with step-by-step instructions for how to use the inexpensive 220 back for the same purpose. Personally, I opted to purchase a pair of cheap, but precisely made, metal spool stabilizers off ebay rather than the DIY method described in the Flickr set, but to each their own. Check it out: www.flickr.com/photos/86265840@N05/sets/72157631972143051/ Of course, the film is positioned in the 220 back in a fashion that requires you to turn the camera 90 degrees when shooting in landscape mode, but it's all good. Keep up the video series on film. Love your style.
Thank you for your video.I am considering returning back to film photography and thinking getting 6x6 Bronica. About mirror lock problem you mentioned, did you try taking out the battery for few seconds? Sometimes I had similar problem with my Nikon and disconnecting battery correct the problem.
I haven't. I haven't had that problem again, anyway, but I'll keep in mind for the next time it happens. If you do return to film photography, this one is a very nice camera, just make sure it fits your needs. It has a beautiful viewfinder and the images are gorgeous. But it is square (which I love, but not for everyone) and a heavy and big camera.
You said that we should lock the shutter release button to prevent draining the battery with the auto exposure prism finder (tip 1). But normally the finder is switched off, when it is not in use. If it is switched off, it is not metering. Do you really think it is still draining tha battery, even if the prism finder is switched off? I do not think so.
I'm not really sure if having the finder on or off makes a difference. But my camera definitely shows a red light when you press the shutter, even with no finder attached. That's draining the battery if even so slightly.
You can also take the film back off, drop the mirror, reset, then put the film back on. That's gonna let you drop the mirror back down without wasting a shot.
Hi! Nice video! I’ve got the same camera, I bought it 6 years ago. I also use red or orange filters on my photos, but my lens cap does not close properly if the filter is screwed to the lens. Have you got the same problem? Did you solve it somehow? Thanks and keep uploading your videos, I find them very inspiring!
Thank you so much! It's a nice camera, isn't it? The lens cap I have attaches to this filter just fine! That's how I store the camera in the bag, the filter stays on 99% of the time. Thanks for watching!
Got a bronica SQ-A the other day. One question. When I cock the shutter and switch the MLU from N to S, the mirror flips up, but I'm unable to fire the shutter. Only when I return the MLU setting to N am I able to fire the shutter. Sometimes, though, i am able to fire the shutter under no different circumstances. But the MLU lever does not return to N after firing one frame on S. Why? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Edit: this has been tested without film in the camera. Is there a difference if there is film or not regarding the MLU?
Sadly, I'm afraid these filters would create too much of a color cast to be usable. Unless that's the look you are after. To increase contrast, I'd use a polarizer whenever possible (there are many cases where it won't increase it) and / or push the film. But my knowledge about color film is very limited :S
How do you meter your shots? Hand held for waist-level finder and then the meter in the AE finder for the others? ....Or maybe you have the prism finder without a meter?
I have a sq-a with a prism finder, but when I turn it on I don't see any more than when it's off. a new battery is in it and the indicator light is red. But nothing else is shown. What's also weird is that I don't seem to be moving the film with the crank because the counter stays in place. I can only change this if I turn the film back manually. Is there a defect or what's going on. This type of camera is new to me, but the description doesn't say anything else about the problems, maybe someone here can help.
Does the depth of field preview also give you a preview of the brightness or “exposure?” Or is it mainly just to see the depth of field that will be in focus?
@@aows That makes sense! I figure I could compose with a digital camera, get the settings and use the same on film (assuming I do get a medium format camera). Thanks for the reply!
Greetings, So I just received the original SQ, so what prism finders work on this one? The camera I purchased came with 2 backs, just waiting on film now! Thanks, Sean
Hi, just bought a Bronica SQ-A and just wondering when I put the prism viewfinder on the camera, it only does 1 speed. But when I'm not using the prism viewfinder the shutter speed works fine. Does the prism viewfinder have some kind of connection to the camera?
Hi! That's weird, maybe it's a metered viewfinder? The ones I have have no connection to the camera, but I know the ones that offer you a reading do have that connection. What's the speed the camera does?
Oops sorry, I completely missed this! I don't have a metered viewfinder unfortunately 😞 I'm afraid something might be wrong with yours, but not sure since I've never used one. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
No, not a silly tip 7, but one more, BE carefull when using a METERED prism (ae 1\2\3), as if you hold this dof preview switch, the meter will select the wrong shutter speed in A mode (it assumes full open metering conditions), and also with the viewfinder when you don't have your eye up on it, but there is a METER value LOCK, it is NOT obvious, it is the little logo on the right of the prism, when looking at it from the front, slide this sideways to lock the value in place(~20-30 seconds); unlike the newer bulky metered prism, there is NO viewfinder eyepiece cover slide, so you have to be aware and cover it, to stop extraneous light entering the meter, and measurement cell.
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If you find the Bronica in mirror lock-up, flick the multiple exposure switch. If you then take the picture with your lens cap on and rewind, you're still in the same frame! Another thing you can do is just to take the back off. Hope this helps
Thanks, Jeroen!!! That's an awesome tip! It does help a lot and it will save me some frames in the future. Thanks again!
lol I just made this same comment before looking down.
@@aows also an IMPORTANT tip here, unlike all dslrs and slr cameras, these bronicas DON'T reset to NORMAL operation when winding on!- IF the M-UP switch is still at C position!! the mirror re-raises as part of the cocking cycle! so set this function OFF before winding.
dark slide back in, take the back off, or partway off, hit the trigger. wind to recock everything, put back back on, remove dark slide.
I bought my SQ-Ai in 1998 and used it for about 5 years before switching to a Leica M6. The Bronica has sat in it's Pelican case for years but I just pulled it out and am wanting to shoot with it again. Your video was a good refresher on its functions. Thanks!
Well I'll be damned. I've been shooting a pair of SQ-A bodies with I think 8 different lenses for three years now and not once did I ever notice a DOF switch on the lenses. Nifty and useful. Thanks for pointing that out. Great videos.
You always have something new to learn! I didn't notice it for a long time, but now I use it quite often! Thanks a lot for your comment.
I got my SQ a couple of years ago. I fell in love with it. To the point of buying a 150 lens, second film back, and waist level view finder. Then I bought an S2A, which I also fell in love with. I mean, all that chrome. It's like a 57 Plymouth. So then, I had to get an ETR. Love them all!
Great video. Thanks.
Great video and tips! I just bought SQ-Ai a few weeks ago and it's been a blast taking photos with it. I haven't experimented yet with long exposures so explanations about the A vs. T mode switch on the lense and mirror modes were very useful information. 👍
Awesome! I'm really glad you are enjoying this beautiful camera! I'll be posting videos about long exposures in the future, but if you have any questions before that, don't hesitate to ask!
When shooting in T mode, just put the lens cap or something dark over the lens and then move the switch back to A.
Thanks! Good idea :)
A good video - thanks. On the viewfinder point, with a square format and a waist-level finder you could turn the camera on its side or even upside down to get a higher viewpoint rather than looking down into it. I have never tried it though I have to admit and certainly many tripods might struggle to support the camera well.
That's a very good idea, Bill! I've shot upside down before, but handholding the camera. Never thought about turning it on the side to get a higher point of view. I would usually switch the finder (I have a prism finder but it's not with me as of right now). Thanks for the tip, very useful!
On the S lens there is the same kind of T pose. To evitate vibrations at the end of exposure I put the cap on the lens before to touch the button.
This afternoon I got my first Bronica- The SQ-Ai as well :) I've been using your videos to learn about this camera and I really appreciate everything you have to offer :) Thanks!
On mine, if the mirror gets stuck up, I remove the back, wind the film, fire the shutter, switch back to N, and replace the back.
I have to try that next time, it hasn't happened for a while so that's good. Thanks!
I was just going to suggest this as well.
Just bought the SQ-B model. Very nice videos!
Nice! Never used that model but it looks pretty good. Enjoy!
Very useful. Today I was looking to that T mode switch in my lenses and wondering what’s it for... here is the answer! Recently I bought a SQ-AI and your videos have been very helpful. The results on your IG page are awesome 👌🏻
I'm glad it helped you, and I hope you enjoy your new camera!
If your mirror is locked, than just remove filmback (maybe change to empty filmback) , turn off mirror lock and put back filmback with film you are shooting at
your honestly the best help on the subject every other bronica how to sucked ass. you're my hero xoxo
I’m glad it helped!!!
Hey! The older S lenses have a T mode as well :)
Thanks, Will! It's good to know, thanks for the info!
@@aows On the S lens, you have to loosen a screw to let you move the lever over to the T position. But as the previous commenter said, my 80/2.8 Zenzanon-S does have T mode.
i really like how all bronica cameras act more or less the same. i could transfer many of your tips to my bronica gs 1 without any problems
That's cool! I never had the chance to touch, or even see, a GS1. How do you like it? Have you had the chance to compare to a SQ?
i owned the pentax 6x7 before and i have to say i like the bronica gs 1 way more. having multiple film backs while shooting is a big plus for me. i never had the chance to shoot with a sq
For sure, I can see that. I own two, so I can either shoot two different speeds or just have one ready to go (not easy to load more film when it's windy, or rainy, or both, or worse...).
It's a good video, the part about some Mamiya's you can take a picture with the darkslide in that is only the case if you set up the RZ67 Pro with shooting with no battery. In short, we have very interesting picks with film cameras I enjoy many of them from the 30ies to some of the modern cameras from sub-cameras to large format.
Nice video! I am a Bronica SQ-A shooter and I agree with your tips. My two cents: I noticed you make it a habit of inserting a dark slide into the back even when you're not changing backs. Bronica's user manual recommends--and I tend to agree--not to do that because the film back may get accidentally knocked off if something hit the release button.
That's a good point! Never thought of that, but it does make a lot of sense. Thanks for the tip!
good point, HOWEVER for film cameras with a darkslide esp MF cameras, this is a GOOD practice, due to the fact not many posess a shutter button lock!, THE DARKSLIDE is a 'backup' safeguard for us, so if in a bag the camera moves, a shot won't be wasted.
Also this advise is better suited to the S \ S2 and S2a cameras (older 6x6 varients of the SQ, the SQ is a modernisation of this design); in THESE {S/S2} there is an interesting feature of the magasine system, the DARKSLIDE acts as the back release button also, (last 2 mm of travel)-but is sping loaded, so I get the application of this tip here, as these also have a 'pocket' in the back door to store the slide in, so there is then no reason to do this (for the reason that there is no other place to store the slide, or to prevent one from misplacing it). but for the bronica SQ, as well as it's siblings the GS and the ETR cameras, they are electronic shutter timing and Firing!, so have a 'hair trigger' , so the use of a Double safety aproach is warrented here, For my two cents.
The T mode on the lens is what you use on the sq-a version as a bulb. It is the same on the etrs and etrsi. The mirror lock up has s and c. S means that the mirror will return in the normal position after re-cocking the shutter and c means that the mirror will stay up after re-cocking the shutter. You don't have to waste a shot. Simply take the photo with the lens cap on the lens. Then take the back off and re-cock the shutter. This is how it works on my Hasselblad, but sure it should work in a similar way on your Bronica. Hope this helps?
Dohhh, didn't see the previous comment. Anyway.....
Thanks, Michiel! That tip seems to be the right one! I'll be trying that the next time I accidentally move the switch, hopefully no more wasted shots :)
Thank you for this, I recently got an ETRSi model
Nice, hope you enjoy it!
GS1 is a great camera. ETRSi was a smallish package. Cannot go wrong with any of the Bronica choices. Square just throws me off.
Thank you for this great explanation!
Thank you!
Taking delivery 2morro of my ZB SQ MF (original model). Can’t w8. Looking 4ward making “arty” square images 4 artwork 2 mount around the cottage. Relative newbie but been experimenting with Square images on my phone. Polaroid back included .. bonus👍. Waist level finder & winder crank handle are my 1st priority gets.
You have some nice photos on your web!
Thank you, Salva, for checking out my website and for your comment!
Just got the Sq-a body and lens. Been gathering backs etc. As of 2022 waist level finders are stil $$$$$. Junky for $100-150 and mint $200-300. And basic prism finders for $5o - 100
Prices are going crazy, but I guess that’s what happens with things that are not being made anymore, but are still being used (and breaking).
Hello
I'm Erwin and I live in Germany and I've already watched a number of your videos. I always found them interesting. Yesterday I exchanged one of my Mamiya 645 super for a Zenza Bronica SQ Ai and the Bronica is in very good condition including the ME prism finder S and MF-Finder S. I'm just getting to know the special features. The work is a little different than with the Mamiya's (645 100S, 645 super, RB 67, each with different lenses). Unfortunately I can only take photos with one camera at a time :-).
I had been aware of the mirror-up problem before, and I heard from another Bronica photographer a solution on how to switch to normal mode without loss of image if you accidentally cock the shutter before the mirror is in normal position became. Your video was shot in 2018, of course, and you may have already come up with the solution yourself. Forgive me if I put familiar things here. Now: Put the lens cap on the lens, press the multi-release lever down, cock the shutter (film is not transported), set the mirror lock back to normal (N) and release the shutter, then also return the multi-release lever to its original position and tighten the fastener again. Now the next subject can be photographed. The next time the shutter is wound, the film will continue to advance normally.
If it helped you, I would be happy. Or it helps a reader - that would be nice too.
Regards
Erwin from Mannheim, Germany
Thanks, yes I learned something new. I have one but I have not devoted much time to it. Please, if you could show more about its use and the filters, I would like it. Where you process the films? At home or in the laboratory.
Hey Olga! Sure, I'll be talking much more about the camera soon. I do develop my film at home, I have a short video showing how I do it ruclips.net/video/OSocR6xcxf8/видео.html as I said I'll be posting more videos about the camera but please don't hesitate to ask!
Can you trip the shutter with the back off? If you can then next time the mirror is up by accident, take the back off with the darkslide in and fire the camera to reset it. I would love to see a video about shooting and composing square, I just got a 6x6 and would appreciate some tips!
Thanks, Joseph! That might do it, and I'll try that next time it happens, for sure. Thanks so much!
That video is on the list :) I think it's a very interesting topic, I absolutely love the square format and I think there's a lot to be said about it.
for the mirror lockup issue could you just put the camera in double exposure mode then cover the lens with the cap and take the shot then wind on and take it out of double exposure setting so basically the film didn't move at all and you don't waste the shot?
Thankfully I haven't had that issue again, but yeah, that's a good idea to keep in mind just in case it happens again :)
Great video, many thanks for the tips. I recently got a Bronica SQ-A and so I'm always interested in learning more about it. I have a Zenzanon S 150mm and it DOES have the time exposure switch. I need to look out for a prism. I have one for my Mamiya 645 and I agree it's a useful viewfinder for certain compositions. I do prefer the WLF when possible though. Love your videos, keep up the great work!
James Pearson do you have a sample photos taken wth bronica?
Not yet I'm afraid. I've just shot a second roll but I've not had a chance to spend time in the darkroom yet (or scan them). When I do, I'll post them to my Flickr if you're interested: www.flickr.com/photos/jameslp/
Thank you, James! It's good to know that the S lenses also have that switch - I figured since that'd be the only way to take exposures longer than a few seconds, but I had no idea :)
Yeah, I *love* the waist level finder, I take most of my photos with it, but the prism one can be very handy for some situations. You just need to remember to bring it with you :P
Love your portraits! 😳😍
I shoot with the Bronica GS-1. This camera is really great to shoot with... it takes 6x7, 6x6, and 645 backs giving me three cameras in one... Plus the eye level prism is metered.
I don’t like Lee or Cokin filters.. because the filters are a plastic resin. Why shoot with good glass and then put a plastic filter in front of it.....
B+W (Schneider) have great round glass filters for a good price. You can find them used on Ebay too for about $15-30 each. Schneider also make great square glass filters but they are very expensive. An alternative is a company called Haida that also make very good square glass filters for a really good price.. around $80-100 each.. I use Schneider B+W and Haida...Glass filters are the way to go.
Nice camera! Don't forget about the Polaroid backs, and maybe 35mm? There are some 35mm film backs for the SQ models so you can shoot panoramic photos. They are really expensive so I probably won't be trying one of them anytime soon, but I've been tempted!
About the filters, that's a fair point: they do decrease the IQ. To be honest it's not that bad, I can't notice it unless you really pixel peep. I use the square ones because they are really easy to use along with the ND filters using the Lee mount, but I'll be looking at those B+Ws filters for regular shooting (I'm using those cheap ones from Amazon that are just fine, but they are all scratched and need new ones).
Thanks for the recommendation!
The 35mm Bronica backs are obscenely expensive, but if you want to shoot 35mm film with the sprocket holes showing, then there's an album on Flickr from user 'Willis' with step-by-step instructions for how to use the inexpensive 220 back for the same purpose. Personally, I opted to purchase a pair of cheap, but precisely made, metal spool stabilizers off ebay rather than the DIY method described in the Flickr set, but to each their own. Check it out: www.flickr.com/photos/86265840@N05/sets/72157631972143051/
Of course, the film is positioned in the 220 back in a fashion that requires you to turn the camera 90 degrees when shooting in landscape mode, but it's all good.
Keep up the video series on film. Love your style.
Thank you for your video.I am considering returning back to film photography and thinking getting 6x6 Bronica. About mirror lock problem you mentioned, did you try taking out the battery for few seconds? Sometimes I had similar problem with my Nikon and disconnecting battery correct the problem.
I haven't. I haven't had that problem again, anyway, but I'll keep in mind for the next time it happens. If you do return to film photography, this one is a very nice camera, just make sure it fits your needs. It has a beautiful viewfinder and the images are gorgeous. But it is square (which I love, but not for everyone) and a heavy and big camera.
You said that we should lock the shutter release button to prevent draining the battery with the auto exposure prism finder (tip 1). But normally the finder is switched off, when it is not in use. If it is switched off, it is not metering. Do you really think it is still draining tha battery, even if the prism finder is switched off? I do not think so.
I'm not really sure if having the finder on or off makes a difference. But my camera definitely shows a red light when you press the shutter, even with no finder attached. That's draining the battery if even so slightly.
Good video, lots of information!
Thanks, Larry!
You can also take the film back off, drop the mirror, reset, then put the film back on. That's gonna let you drop the mirror back down without wasting a shot.
Yup!
Hi! Nice video! I’ve got the same camera, I bought it 6 years ago. I also use red or orange filters on my photos, but my lens cap does not close properly if the filter is screwed to the lens. Have you got the same problem? Did you solve it somehow? Thanks and keep uploading your videos, I find them very inspiring!
Thank you so much! It's a nice camera, isn't it?
The lens cap I have attaches to this filter just fine! That's how I store the camera in the bag, the filter stays on 99% of the time.
Thanks for watching!
Got a bronica SQ-A the other day. One question.
When I cock the shutter and switch the MLU from N to S, the mirror flips up, but I'm unable to fire the shutter. Only when I return the MLU setting to N am I able to fire the shutter.
Sometimes, though, i am able to fire the shutter under no different circumstances. But the MLU lever does not return to N after firing one frame on S.
Why?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Edit: this has been tested without film in the camera. Is there a difference if there is film or not regarding the MLU?
Hi :)
Thank you for the video !
I don’t understand what is the battery for ? Isn’t the camera fully mecanic ?
very cool example for the use of the orange filter. :D will this also work partly with a colored film?
Sadly, I'm afraid these filters would create too much of a color cast to be usable. Unless that's the look you are after.
To increase contrast, I'd use a polarizer whenever possible (there are many cases where it won't increase it) and / or push the film. But my knowledge about color film is very limited :S
what battery that you use? and what brand? ty
Hi do you know if you can get a digital back for this camera?
How do you meter your shots? Hand held for waist-level finder and then the meter in the AE finder for the others? ....Or maybe you have the prism finder without a meter?
I have a sq-a with a prism finder, but when I turn it on I don't see any more than when it's off. a new battery is in it and the indicator light is red. But nothing else is shown. What's also weird is that I don't seem to be moving the film with the crank because the counter stays in place. I can only change this if I turn the film back manually. Is there a defect or what's going on. This type of camera is new to me, but the description doesn't say anything else about the problems, maybe someone here can help.
My friend I have a issues with focusing , I mean I really don't know but some of the images looks not sharp , any help please or suggestion, thanks
Mirror up I think you could remove film back then wind camera and put film back back on
That should work :) Thanks!
Does the depth of field preview also give you a preview of the brightness or “exposure?” Or is it mainly just to see the depth of field that will be in focus?
What do you use to meter your shots? Is it a phone app or dedicated light meter?
I use my digital camera, and when I'm using it to record videos, I use an app called myLightMeter Pro :)
@@aows That makes sense! I figure I could compose with a digital camera, get the settings and use the same on film (assuming I do get a medium format camera). Thanks for the reply!
Greetings,
So I just received the original SQ, so what prism finders work on this one? The camera I purchased came with 2 backs, just waiting on film now!
Thanks,
Sean
I have zenza BRONICA device, but i did have not skill how to operate it. If you know pleas tell me
Hi, just bought a Bronica SQ-A and just wondering when I put the prism viewfinder on the camera, it only does 1 speed. But when I'm not using the prism viewfinder the shutter speed works fine. Does the prism viewfinder have some kind of connection to the camera?
Hi! That's weird, maybe it's a metered viewfinder? The ones I have have no connection to the camera, but I know the ones that offer you a reading do have that connection.
What's the speed the camera does?
Yep it's a metered viewfinder. It does only 1/500 shutter speed. Do you have the same viewfinder?
Oops sorry, I completely missed this! I don't have a metered viewfinder unfortunately 😞 I'm afraid something might be wrong with yours, but not sure since I've never used one. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
It’s okay, great photos by the way. Thanks for the help! I hope I can use my camera someday.
would you recommend this camera for portraits?
I don't shoot many portraits, but this camera should be pretty awesome for that. Medium format has a shallower depth of field at the same aperture.
aows thanks dude, your videos are really cool and I'm considering to buy a bronica because of your videos
Glad you like them! I love mine. It all depends on if you already shoot film or not, if you already do then I can recommend it :)
Need help. My 220 back will not advance film
Oh, no :( I don't have a 220 back so not really sure how to help, but I hope you can fix the problem!
No, not a silly tip 7, but one more, BE carefull when using a METERED prism (ae 1\2\3), as if you hold this dof preview switch, the meter will select the wrong shutter speed in A mode (it assumes full open metering conditions), and also with the viewfinder when you don't have your eye up on it, but there is a METER value LOCK, it is NOT obvious, it is the little logo on the right of the prism, when looking at it from the front, slide this sideways to lock the value in place(~20-30 seconds); unlike the newer bulky metered prism, there is NO viewfinder eyepiece cover slide, so you have to be aware and cover it, to stop extraneous light entering the meter, and measurement cell.
200 usd ! now...