Ford Power Steering Pump Professional Rebuild & Restoration - Boss 302 Mustang // New Music Preview
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2018
- Today's video is a full disassembly, restoration, rebuild, and re-assembly of a 1970 Boss 302 Mustang power steering pump. This pump was used from the mid 1960's through the 70's, so most of the concepts and parts used in this rebuild are very similar to the parts that might be utilized while rebuilding your pump.
If you would like to have your pump rebuilt & restored to proper factory-original standards, please contact us at www.AllClassicMotors.com
Don't forget to like the video and subscribe to my channel for more videos like this one in the future.
Instagram: @davidwiththelonghair
*All music in this video is owned and created by me. If you would like to use some of this music or collaborate, please email Larsonthedrummerboy@gmail.com with any inquiries. Thanks! 
Авто/Мото
I know it’s 4 years old, but it saved me tonight. I glanced at it the other day and replaced the big o ring seal on the reservoir using the disassembly and reassembly shown here…. Then I had an awful growling pump. Took it back out, back apart, and followed the step by step exactly and now it’s all rebuilt and super quiet. I think I may have had one of those cams or plates or whatever 180 degrees out…. Whatever I did, if you follow these instructions to a T, you will have success.
I used to restore Mustangs and I agree with most of what this guy says but...... 1st point. I take the pulley wheel off first. ( since most people don't have an arbor press just laying around) I Always use the wheel removal tool part # 27031 that O'reilly's and Autozone loans out for free (the right price). And I re- instal the wheel with the same tool.(the very last thing I do) 2nd point. @ 1:28 the fluid in the pump is light yellow, that is the so called "universal" PS fluid. The bottles always say they work in all power steering units, NO. Type F only. Mercron is OK but type F is best. That "universal" fluid blows out the pressure O-ring in the pump and makes it run hot, You'll go through pumps like junk mail. Always use factory recommended fluid on all cars. 3rd point. @ 2:14 he slams the inner housing on the table and fluid spills out. I recommend going to 99 cent store and get the disposable 2 pack aluminum lasagna pans for $1. slam the housing down in the pan when the part and fluid come out put a wrench under one side of the pan so the fluid drains to one side for 10 minutes. (with the parts still in the up hill side of the pan). ...4th point. @ 7: 21 he tightens the bolts on the inner housing. you can just tighten them down firm but the factory recommends torque to 38 then 47 ft pound in a cross pattern. ... 5th point @ 7:29 he puts a gasket on the pressure fitting. 69 and earlier that gasket is much smaller. 70 on the gasket is the larger one in the video. I have bought kits where the gasket was too big or too small. I found the Autozone rebuild kit, part# 8501 comes with both size gaskets, is US made and at the posting of this is $15. ( I do NOT work for them or take money from them) Last point . If you can-not sand blast the parts wipe them down with kitchen paper towels, clean them with simple green, ..I also use one of those cheap 3M abrasive cleaning wheels on a drill to remove tuff rust and gunk. sand the parts with 220 wet and dry paper, use non-toxic rust remover for any last rust spots. Now, 60% of the time when Type F or any trans fluid gets on paint from a spray can it blisters and comes off. The factory paint had much hotter paint thinner and more catalyst. I have found when I put one coat of dark grey Rust-olem primer on and then the finish coat it sticks way better. (primer the can, pump face and wheel) use semi gloss for the black (not semi flat) Most Mustang parts shops carry the original color paint for about $14. My favorite substitute paint is Dupli-color Indigo metallic. about $10.. part # BGM0506. (most auto-parts places have it) VERY close to the original color (in my opinion). NO matter what color you paint the parts put the base coat Rust-olem primer if you want the paint to stay on. ( Again, I do NOT take money from or work for any company I mentioned) Oh, one last thing, O'reilly's and Autozone say they take used trans and steering fluid (for free) even if it's mixed with motor oil. so I just pore the used fluid into empty oil bottles. (ask what ever parts place you go to and make sure)
Found Torque settings....
The 4 bolts holding the inner pump body to the cast pump body should be torqued to 28-32 ft-lbs until the housing flange contacts the gasket.
The rear nut holding the outer body to the pump should be torqued to 43-45 ft-lbs
From the Chilton manual
Great instructional video. I was going to replace the seals on my leaking pump but I fear that I'll struggle without the jig and expertise you have. Your finished product was amazing. Think I'll spend the extra bucks and just buy a new pump and paint it. I have a 1977 F250 and I try to keep as much original stuff under the hood as possible.
Love this video! Very detailed and helpful
Highly informative and exactly what I needed to see, thank you!
Top skills. Great care and attention. 😎🤙
Fantastic video. The music was relaxing also lol
Great video i was hoping you have a part # for the tool that was used around the stamped steel pump housing so the o-ring doesnt get caught during install
great video thanks
I learned something today.
Helpful video, weldone, merci
great job. make sure you visit your local usps first...
Damn I wish I had a whole shop
Can you give me info on the 2 Ford tools you used? Do you have a part number for the tool that keeps the o-ring from getting pinched?
Great video! How much would it cost for you to rebuild a 67 ford power steering pump to the same quality as this one? Thanks
Good details & helpful thanks . I'm have trouble finding the right brackets & p/s pump for 69 351w ? The bracket that goes on block the holes don't match /line up ?
David How tight should the pully spin after the rebuild? I did replace the front seal and the shaft was not too worn. There's no fluid in right now and it spins smoothly but takes some force.
Great video, but what is the orange O-Ring tool featured at 6:35???
Do you have the paint code to that color blue please
Awesome! Thank you! Any info you can provide on the main shaft bushing? May need to replace this.
Are referring to the lead bushing that is inside the cast pump face providing a snug bearing surface for the shaft? Or are you talking about the shaft main seal? (Rubber & steel ring lightly pressed into the cast face)
The main shaft seal is easy to replace. The lead bushing is near impossible. Trust me, I have tried 😀
@@davidlarson3905 I just removed it using a 14mm socket as a driver and pressed it down. Came out easy, no sweat. I placed the new bush in the freezer so that I can fit it in tomorrow. Thanks for the great video, by the way.
How much do you charge for a similar service? I've tried to find a contact email on your website but was not able to.
Don't know how you got the 3 bolts loose with the pulley on, mine are pushing against it and I don't get them out. Will pull the pulley now first
Great video but one question ? what colour would the dipstick be ? black ?
Nice Video, but I have some Questions....
1/ What are the correct torque settings for the four Hex screws securing the pump body with the paper gasket.
2/ The orange strap that you show in the video, does the tab on the strap fit flush internally on the pump body, or does it slightly protrude?
3/ Your hands are in front of the camera when assembling the outer pump identification plate and hex nut, Did you place any additional washer between the plate and the hex nut?
Thanks,
I put one on the inside and one on the outside. If it gets past the inner one, then it has to fight through the other one in order to leak. The "correct" method is only one inside.
My 71 mustang’s pump was leaking bad. You video was great. The piston and spring in my valve assembly popped out when I pumped it loose. The assembly in your video did not. Is there any way to rebuild the valve assembly?
I wondered if I was the only one. Mine went boing and I guessed at how it went back in and so far so good. Could not find one single video showing it being removed or rebuilt
Do you happened to know the paint code for that paint you used. Or a color name.
Great tutorial, but I don’t have access to a sand blaster
Do you think it’s safe to use a Remanufactured motorcraft pump in an 04 F150 5.4?
David, how do you determine the correct Clocking Position of the Can to the Pump during reassembly? I realize marking both components prior to dis-assembly is good practice, but, did the manufacturer incorporate Position Markers or Indicators?
There is a small notch on the front lip of the reservoir can that lines up with a similar notch on the cast iron pump face. This notch also faces "up". The can clocking isn't terribly critical - just as long as the filler tube is the highest part of the can! 👍
Found this out the hard way also. If you don’t do it right, the hose fittings can be dangerously close to the exhaust manifold (68 cougar / mustang in my case). Do it correctly, and they aren’t as close. Still a stupid design from ford, and too close for my comfort but they work lol.
I have a problem with the valve, the small piston is stucked in the bottom, what do i do?
I don’t get it. No bearings? Only gaskets?
Mine feel a little funny when I spin the axle by hand so I thought there might be a worn out bearing ??
Is it factory spec for the tag to be painted too?
Yes! I paint the pieces separate from eachother because It’s easier to get them all perfect. They were painted after completely assembled from the factory though. Untouched cans I take apart have no paint underneath where the tag goes.
So how do I contact you to rebuild my pump off my 70 F250....
Sorry but this had the makings for a great video. You forgot a few things especially the first piece needs to put on the shaft BEFORE pressing it in place. Also you should have also explained which side needed to be up. All in a very good video.
I'm a little lost on what you're concerned with but thanks
Just that the first plate needs to be passed through the shaft before pressing the shaft through the face and onto pulley.@@davidlarson3905
Where can we buy the rebuild parts?
Rock Auto
Great video, man!!! Just one question: where can I find the o ring tool?
Hey thanks! I'm assuming you're referring to the orange plastic tool used... it is an original Ford tool from the 1960s. Honestly, I'm not sure where you would find one today - it's from my dad's collection! Maybe you can make a similar tool?? Good luck!
Thanks, man.
What about a part/tool number?
Great video! Reynaldo Garza, I was looking for one too. Hopefully David has the part/tool number.
What could cause my power steering pump to lock in the direction of engine turning, but free turning backwards? 93 E150 302. Thank You SO MUCH for this video! 🙏🚂🎼🌹🎶🎵🛠 ~C< 3)>>-Z->}
what is exact color blue on that pump?
I am going with DupliColor Ford Twilight Blue Metallic on the pump in my 1972 F100. It’s not a concours vehicle so it will be close enough.
Colors varied as it was batch paint from the supplier(Ford pumps used semi gloss paint) I had original pumps from 68 to 70 going from mostly blue to mostly green. At one time I gave a color swatch to NPD as my friend does their catalogs as a manager of the Canton Mi. store because their colors were way off(65 color). I had "Painter's supply" match a pump and make up 4 cans of the color but like I said the color varied as it was the mixture of 4 other colors for other parts they made. Gary
Didn't "rebuild" pump mechanism. Only put new gaskets in. There is a complicated spring pump that was not touched.
There are some parts of the process I didn't show in this video.
If the internal spring pump or any of the other thrust faces of the compression plates show any wear at all, I replace them with NOS pieces.
I didn't see any "rebuilding" here; only the application of paint and some new gaskets.
Clean and reseal is all that is done typically. Unless there are physically worn parts . . nothing else to do.
No wonder the Post Office is going broke. Clowns like you using free priority mail packaging for your work surface. I'm sure AllClassicMotors gets lots of cardboard boxes from all the parts that must get delivered there. Instead you use brand new pristine USPS packaging. Otherwise, good video.