I have installed Tracy's system on my 16 Expedition. Due to the difference in the Expedition from the F150 I had to get creative with the install. Tracy worked with me and was very helpful. Great experience. I highly recommend Tracy's product.
Wonder how well this would work on the wife's 2017 Escape Ecoboost. I understand that there is significant carbon build-up on the intake valves and ports. My next project. I live in North West. Lots of moisture and can get down to freezing from time to time. Love your video. Very professional thanks 👍
Yes, for all years, but the 2015 and up the can mounts inside the engine compartment as the grill is fixed now, and there is also a flow sensor that is inline on the clean/fresh side of the 2015 and up engines. This must be relocated into the new cleanside line from the cleanside unit flowing in the same direction.
ALL automakers with GDI have this issue, but the turbo Ford Ecoboost and the GM 2.0T 4 cylinder turbo's have the piston/engine failures form a poorly designed PCV system. Ford only uses the intake manifold vacuum to evacuate so anytime in boost no evac takes place. GM does the opposite and only uses the suction from the turbo inlet for evac so they have a similar issue. The only way to avoid the accumulation of these contaminants is to evac from both sources and trap and contain the contaminants.
Could you please do an install video do the dual check valve can on a SHO. I haven't been able to install mine yet but an install video would be a huge help for myself and other SHO owners. Thanks in advance!
Just got the catch can today. I have a question. The can you sent me has a waterjet cut clamp that slips around the can with two 1/4-20 tapped holes that orient perpendicular to the can. In this video you have a piece of aluminum with the tapped holes TIG welded to the can vertically. With mine the tapped holes do not align with the long mounting bracket with the slot in it since they are perpendicular to the can and the slot is vertical. This would cause the can to mount horizontally which surely is not correct. How am I supposed to mount the can??
I ended up mounting the can in the engine bay next to the airbox. Not sure how it's supposed to go with the brackets you provide but I've got it working.
Okay, a few serious questions: 1) On the passenger side turbo intake, my 2011 already has a hose attached to it. What is that hose and could I just install the barb above there? 2) Why not just plug the drivers side turbo intake barb and install a single barb right up where the air intake splits? Avoid a lot of extra hose, the T, and uneven turbo draw because of the hose length differences? 3) Going the route of a single barb up further in the air intake, why have 2 "clear air" connections on the catch can? Just go with a single "clear air output" from the catch can and T it to the single air intake going to the turbo air intake and the exhaust manifold? At 12:40, the installer even says, "the can will always use the strongest suction source" so it doesn't matter if the suction (the catch can) has two direct inputs or just T down the line, as long as both inputs have a check valve , one of which will close in favor of the stronger suction source. (I'd assume at idle the turbos will suck on the intake and when moving the intake will draw air into the engine.)
The instruction at 27:50 is different on my 2011 F150 Ecoboost because that "already molded boss" fitting addition can't be done because there is already some other hose hooked up to the "already molded boss".
That would be the reinoculating valve connection. As long as you add a barb (included) as close to that molded connection as possible your good. The turbo inlet tubes provide in boost evacuation suction generated by the Venturi Effect from the incoming air flow past the barbs mouth. You can just use the drivers side, but that is not as effective. One of the flaws in Fords design is they only use intake manifold vacuum, which is only present at idle and deceleration. And that is why so little of the constantly entering contaminants remain in the crankcase to accumulate.
Great question. With the Ford Ecoboost due to the flawed OEM PCV system design, there will be a much larger amount caught than many engine configurations. And if below 50* F the amount of water and un-burnt fuel is far more than in warm weather. The colder, the more of these caught. So, always check in say 200 or so miles to determine your vehicles rate of capture. And if you live in cold climates, ALWAYS get the "Monster" system as it is twice the capacity. Several other factors determine the oil amount, such as how well the piston rings seated in the first 200-300 miles of a new engine (run hard and engine braking results in a much better end result than babying like the owners manual states). Less blow-by equals less oil caught. Cheers!!
That's the problem.. they're using low tension rings... LT rings never seat plus have lots of blow-by which equals oil consumption, contamination,misfires ect ect...Surely there will be a class action lawsuit over this cover up... but I don't know as ford has deep pockets.
Yes, low tension rings require vacuum/suction to be pulled on the crankcase to seal properly for the most part. And they are used in most all GDI engines today for less parasitic power loss from the higher drag of HT rings. Just one of the many issues GDI engine owners need to be aware of.
Hi Steve, If the mileage is 10k or less, the amount of coking will be minimal, but if over that the only way to clean them is a manual cleaning such as we show in this video: ruclips.net/video/7Pz0zTQ1bz0/видео.html What you do NOT want to do is a solvent based upper induction cleaning as that can damage the turbos. The main thing is to get the system on and extract what is already in the oil and crankcase (first drain will be the most as it takes out what has been accumulating). It is also a good idea to remove the CAC (intercooler), not a hard job, and clean it with a mix of degreaser like Purple Power, then rinse and drain for 1/2 hour or so. While the CAC is out, drill a small hole (5/64" or so) in the lowest part of the plastic end so water will be expelled like Volvo does on their turbo intercoolers. This is an example of in the winter and the first drain so you know what to expect: ruclips.net/video/dT0kpHpGQJ8/видео.html Get the "Monster" can and email direct to order: RXProducts@aol.com or call: 727-235-1713. Beware of the cheap China made knock-offs!! They come from speedworks/gofastmuscle. They are NOT the genuine cans made int he USA.
awesome video! question---can the catch can petcock be just left open and drain continuously onto the pavement as you drive?...or does it need to always be closed and then drained when the engine is not running or even drained at idle?
i installed mine a few days ago on my 2011 ecoboost and im not getting that amount of air coming in my clean side separator. Sounds like a lot of suction when you put your thumb over it. what would cause this on mine?
At idle, you should have a good amount of suction on the CSS if you place a finger on the barb or hose end. Make sure you got the genuine system and not the cheap China counterfeits. They make the CSS from cheap plastic that melts and does not seal, and also does NOT allow enough flow through. Only www.TracyLewisPerformance.com and www.TeamRXP.com
I just traded in my 2012 F150 and removed the oil catch can before I traded it in. I Purchased a 2016 F150, can I use the catch can for my new truck or what changes I need to make? Thanks for your help
Yes you can. What you will need different is the adaptor for the flow sensor your 2016 has in the factory cleanside line now. It eliminates the CEL light coming on in most cases, but there are a few that still trigger CEL's. This is NOT an issue as far as anything wrong, but is annoying. How did you like the results on your last truck? Email us direct for the adapter you need: RXProducts@aol.com
I cannot believe the crap that is drained out. I drain it every fill up. I have 42 miles on my new truck and I won't move it until I install the catch can. I'll email you for the info for the adapter for the flow sensor.
What interval to empty? All engines will be different due to how well rings seated, etc. But the Ecoboost has such an ineffective PCV system from the factory it generates far more than most so check at 100-200 miles and then judge. Never let the can get more than 1/3-1/2 full or effectiveness will be reduced.
3.5 is the ecoboost from 2011-2014. The 2.7 was added as an option in 2015. All take the same system, just 2015 and up use a different mounting bracket and mount in the engine compartment. For more details, email us direct at: RXProducts@aol.com and we are happy to assist.
What is your recommendation for someone that purchased a used 2013 F150 ecoboost? I did buy the truck from a Ford dealership, which makes me wonder if some type of modifications might have already been completed? I would certainly hope that there is a TSB on such a issue! If there was NOT any action to remedy this problem, how would someone go about cleaning the inside of the engine & valves?
Why can't I find any of these catch cans? I bought the knock off from jegs but it didn't come with the same catch can as shown in your video or the one way hoses or oem pcv connections
Since my 2014 Ford Explorer Sport has a 3.5L EcoBoost, I assume it would have the same problems? Would this be a similar install and advice for the CAC?
How come when searching for your web site it automatically goes to RX speedworks?? Your cans were backordered on Jegs. I'm a buyer but the one I found on ebay says they are RX speedworks??
Yes it will, but the mounting location and brackets are different. The 2015-16 also has the flow sensor that the 2011-2014 does not. www.jegs.com/i/Tracy+Lewis/021/1TLPP301/10002/-1 or www.RXCatchcans.com Email us direct at: APDEG@aol.com
To date, Ford keeps doing "band-aid" changes with little effect as they are not addressing the cause. They have added deflectors to make the CAC (intercooler) less effective (bad move) and have added a flow sensor for 2015 and up to reduce boost and power when the crankcase pressure rises and flow reverses. They are well aware of all of this as we have systems on the family of one of the Ford VP's as well as they have tested them at several dealers that now install them, etc. But to make any sizable change takes years once a vehicle is in production. We are in the final Patent stages for a self emptying version that meets emissions requirements that will be submitted once issued to each automaker so in the next 3-4 years people should see these on mass produced vehicles. In the meantime, most are doing internal separation and that is retaining the damaging compounds that cause wear and damage to the engines, another bad move.
Absolutely. The intake valves will already be coked up so a manual cleaning of them is recommended, but the excessive fuel dilution and full time flushing the crankcase is well worth it. If valves are clean the average MPG gain is 8-10% and oil stays cleaner 2-3 times as long. www.RXCatchcans.com
Talked to Jeg's, they are going to correct this and will be carrying the official genuine RX cans in the near future. They got "the wool pulled over their eye's" and apologize. We will post up in all the installation video's when they have the "real" made in the USA versions in stock. Sorry DJ! Let us know if we can be of more assistance.
Vincent Rhodes As of today the catalog is still showing the made in china's, but they should have the real ones in app. 2 weeks. You can email direct: RXProducts@aol.com to order until then to get the genuine systems.
my 2012 ecoboost, on the passenger side where you drill for the fitting, I have a hose on there going towards the turbo, from the factory. would I just hook hose to hose and plug the hard plastic nipple?
I just had a shop do this for me today and he ended up not using the cap, he wasn't sure as he routed the vacuum to the left side of the car from the bottom of the tube where air flow feeds from. He told me he didn't see where in the video what to do with the cap and I seen you do it at 36:00. if this isn't used and the other inlet is capped off will this be a problem untill I have him fix it this week end or tomorrow?
I ordered mine from Jeg's 3 days ago. It just arrived and my catch can does not look like the one shown in this video. The one in this video shows a welded lower end with a welded bung for the ballcock valve. Mine is not welded but appears to have pressed in ends. Also, it has a McNally Electronics decal on the side as well as a RX extremeautoproducts.com painted logo on the opposite side. What did I get? Is it genuine?
All PCV systems have a "clean" or "fresh" side of the system, and a "dirty" or "foul" side. The cleanside is where the filtered fresh MAF metered air enters one bank or portion of the crankcase and flushes and replaces the dirty side where the contaminant laden vapors are evacuated or sucked out. So no, every PCV system has a fresh/clean side, and a foul/dirty side. Contrary to those that don't understand the PCV system or proper crankcase evacuation and only think of pressure and venting. Technology that was outdated in the mid 1960's. Were happy to have a civil technical discussion on any of this if you like. Education is a valuable thing.
Beware!!! rxspeedworks is NOT affiliated with us in anyway!! They have copied our installation videos w/out permission and are NOT allowed to use my likeness!
Great feedback! We just need to get another 2015-2016 in to show the mount location. The cleanside for 12105 & up has a flow sensor inline you move up to the new location. On early 2015's it may set a code but it effects nothing. The later trucks seem to have been revised to not throw a code, but not 100% sure. Also, some water can still accumulate in the CAC so a single small weep hole in the lowest portion of the plastic ends will prevent that. All beware of the China Made knock-offs sell the RX brand. They are NOT made by us the originator! Email us direct for any support needed: RXProducts@aol.com
One other thing: what's this about cleaning, what, throttle intake, or some such even after 2,500 miles? My '15 has 5,500 miles, reckon I need to clean whatever you said it is?
Search BMW Intake valve cleaning for some good videos. A manual cleaning of the intake valves to remove the current deposits is recommended. But usually not needed until 15-20k miles on the engine.
Tracy, at about 33:45 you said remove charge intercooler to clean. Is that the thing people have been drilling a small hole into so some of that mess can drain? In other words, you're saying that is what should be cleaned? I'm not talking about valves. My truck is new, I just want to prevent this gunk by using catch can.
Correct. Adding the small drain/weep hole will prevent more accumulation of water in the future as the can system stops the oil and other contaminates. I like to remove the CAC and rinse with a grease cutter (purple power, etc.) and then set on end to drain for a while so you get all cleaned out to start, then the small weep hole (1/6") at the lowest point of the plastic end cap on the drivers side works well.
To order direct the genuine RX system email us at: RXProducts@aol.com. Speedworks is NOT affiliated with us and they are 2 guys selling cheap Chinese made knock offs from their homes. We will get pictures posted of what they are selling. They appear to be glued together as they came apart pretty easy: [URL=s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html][IMG]i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/tech17/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html][IMG]i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/tech17/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg[/IMG][/URL] If Jegs is out of stock, just contact us direct. They are in stock and ready to ship!
Hey Terry this is Ron I have a question. I have a 2017 F150 3.5 eco-boost, there is no tang on the inlet side turbo passenger side to drill into, where would you recommend me drilling..??
You can use just driverside, but it is best to T to passenger as well. No need to remove, coat drill bit with grease and it will trap/capture most all plastic. Just get the barb as close to the turbo as possible, but make sure it is in the INLET pipe.
Has to be something routed incorrectly. Please email us pictures of all routing and connections to: RXProducts@aol.com and we will look at it today (Saturday) and get back to you.
Gary, The signal the ECU is looking for is supplied by the MAP sensor (flow sensor to them) located in the cleanside line when stock of the 2015 and up ecoboost engines (well not the 1.6l) and it expects to see 3.7-4.5 volts due to crankcase pressure. When you install one of these systems, we defeat all pressure and are pulling suction on the crankcase at all times, so it will only show less than one volt in most cases. While this is a huge benefit to the engine, the CEL light is annoying. We need to have someone bring in a Ecoboost we can use for a few days to design the right fix. Anyone in FL that can bring us their ecoboost (F150, etc.) we will do this no charger and if you are getting one of our systems we will install it absolutely free.
+nastystang113 Yes, sure will. The mount location is in the front of the engine compartment, but all installs basically the same. Email us at: RXProducts@aol.com Tyanks!
That plastic in the turbo inlet honestly makes my nervous ,could you at lease try to suck it out after drilling with a shop vaccum or something , I'm interested in installing this system on my 2016 expedition
Good job, boys. I just ordered one today (RX) for my '15 3.5 Ecoboost, be installing it before I drive truck again. Makuloco connected a hose to both turbos. Why didn't y'all do that? Oh, and can't y'all stop these ridiculous Hecho en Chine copying mess? Dagnabbit, if I find out mine is Chinese mess, it's going right back! It shows plainly Made in USA on Amazon though, so I'm hoping so!
To order, you must contact us directly: www.RXCatchcans.com With Jegs, we suggest you return the cheap China knock-off for a refund (they are VERY good with returns) and they are carrying the latest design by us, the "Tracy Lewis Signature Series" . Also, Jeg's is showing our pictures, but shipping the cheap China knock-off's as the supplier has not updated this with them (not Jegs fault, they are quality. It is the supplier doing this causing the issues by pretending to be us). Our apologies to all that have gotten "taken" by these cheap knock-off's. We hold the patents and are seeking remedy, but until they can be stopped, spread the word. Let us know if we can be of more assistance in any way.
DJ, you ordered the correct one as the picture shows our made in the USA billet version, but what they sent you is the cheap made in China copy extremeautoproducts/ Mcnally cans. They are NOT what Jeg's is representing in the pictures in the catalog. We have notified them several times but get no response from them. Jeg's is not shipping cheap substitutes on purpose I don't believe, it is the company that is supplying them pulling the "fast one". Let the slaes rep at Jeg's know what happened to you, and ask him to forward this to Lewis Pfeiffer, head of products so he knows whats happening. Spread the word as well, all sorts are getting "Taken" by the copies. The "real deal" can be found by emailing: RXProducts@aol.com Jeg's has the cheap copies now and speedworks/gofastmuscle is also cheap copies.
When is a video for the 2015 3.5's going to be uploaded? I ordered my Rx Catch can months ago for my 2015, it's still sitting brand new in the box. A step by step video tutorial would be great since the current kits do not account for aluminum bodies or the fact that the grill is NOT fixed to the hood. So mounting in this video is irrelevant for the 2015's.
Yes, draining the intercooler (CAC) is important! You may also need to do a manual intake valve cleaning as well as shown in our video on this procedure. To contact us, email direct: RXProducts@aol.com BEWARE of the cheap China made knockoffs from speedworks! Here are pictures of how cheaply made they are...appear to be glued together! s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html Always in stock ready to ship.
Website is down, but email us direct: RXProducts@aol.com for any info. The 2015 we are re-doing video. The cheap Chinese knock-offs are confusing as they also copied all our emails so we are redoing all. This is the ONLY genuine separators from the inventor/designer. Thanks!!
What about their 100000mile warranty. This is a patch or just a plain simple way to hide or cover up the engines faults. I'll keep my V8.Also is ford paying you back for the oil?
Ford recently dropped warranty on the GDI engines to 36k miles. GM dropped theirs to 60k miles, and rumor is going to lower it further. Our systems correct the issues at the source of the cause. To date, all we have seen from Ford is addressing the issues after they happen VS changing the PCV system to one proper for a turbo application.
Correct. You got taken. Let Jegs know as they will promptly refund you. And you can add you do NOT want the McNally. Here is a link to the Jegs versions: www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=tracy+lewis TeamRXP has the genuine tig welded RX cans. www.teamRXP.com Email us direct to see pictures of the knock-offs that have come apart on customers: RXProducts@aol.com Cheers!
Anyone, pop off your charge tubes from the CAC (intercooler) and see what is in it. If you purchased from anyone BUT the original RX Performance Products, LLC or JEGS.com. you may very well have gotten the cheap Chinese knock off and don't have the correct OEM fittings or brackets. And of course the cheap pressed together China can. speedworks or any other URL are the knock-offs (2 ex employee's) and have nothing to do with us, the designers and founders. For the "real deal" email us direct: RXProducts@aol.com As we are NOT retailers, we do not advertise. JEGS.com and RXProducts@aol.com (and several dealers as well) can provide the original, genuine systems with all you need, and the tech support needed. Our appologies for the unscrupulous copies. We are the ONLY original RX Performance Products, LLC. (look up in sunbiz.org for validation). Any other with RX in the name are not us.
There was a hearing with the NTSB looking into the crashes, etc. when hydro-lock would occur passing a car or up a hill and rod would go through block causing oil slick and loss of control. But Ford testified it was from "driving in rain" and it was dismissed. Google search: Ford Ecoboost NTSB investigation".
Yes, comes with OEM fittings. Also, the can now comes with a clamp mount for more flexibility. To order, visit www.RXCatchcans.com.com NOTE! www.revxtreme is NOT to the genuine original system. The rx websites may bring you to a made in China knock-off!
No you did not. You have one of the cheap China knock-offs. I would return it ASAP and order a genuine unit made in the USA and tig welded. Those cheap copies can come apart as they are just glued and pressed together. Jeg's is good about returns, and let them know what they are shipping is NOT what is pictured in the catalog online!!!
+RX Performance Products, LLC Thanks. I've contacted Jegs and they will be taking my return. But now I need to know how to get a genuine version. Where can I order?
ONLY order the Genuine systems for us direct or from Jegs.com www.RXCatchcans.com The counterfeiters pretending to be us like teamrxp are NOT affiliated with us and are COUNTERFEITS!!!
Beware of speedworks!! They are cheap china made knock offs!! The true RX systems are 100% made in the USA. RXProducts@aol.com Here are pictures of how cheaply made they are...appear to be glued together! s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html
And GM for 2016 and up deleted the intake manifold vacuum for evacuation leaving most of the wear causing contaminates in the crankcase to try and slow the coking formation. Crazy bandaid's ant the expense of the consumer instead of doing it right. Save a 1/2 cent here and there and have an engine likely to only last 1/4th as long as before. Get the idiot upper management OUT of the engineers business and let them design it right!
Frank the fuck you mean buy a Chevy chevy vehicles are junk. engine failure at 19k miles or less so many chevy vehicles have let us down even with proper maintenance vs a little catch can that you drain when you check your oil at the gas pump? fuck government motors obama shoulda let chevy shut down
Frank hey man if you want to avoid the problem you get a Chevrolet, if you want to fix the problem you do this. ruclips.net/video/jgk5RSUnOhE/видео.html ✌✌
I have installed Tracy's system on my 16 Expedition. Due to the difference in the Expedition from the F150 I had to get creative with the install. Tracy worked with me and was very helpful. Great experience. I highly recommend Tracy's product.
Wonder how well this would work on the wife's 2017 Escape Ecoboost. I understand that there is significant carbon build-up on the intake valves and ports. My next project. I live in North West. Lots of moisture and can get down to freezing from time to time. Love your video. Very professional thanks 👍
Good job! Sorry I did not see this until now. Good job. The verticle clamos only use one bolt. Horizontal 2.
Yes, for all years, but the 2015 and up the can mounts inside the engine compartment as the grill is fixed now, and there is also a flow sensor that is inline on the clean/fresh side of the 2015 and up engines. This must be relocated into the new cleanside line from the cleanside unit flowing in the same direction.
ALL automakers with GDI have this issue, but the turbo Ford Ecoboost and the GM 2.0T 4 cylinder turbo's have the piston/engine failures form a poorly designed PCV system. Ford only uses the intake manifold vacuum to evacuate so anytime in boost no evac takes place. GM does the opposite and only uses the suction from the turbo inlet for evac so they have a similar issue. The only way to avoid the accumulation of these contaminants is to evac from both sources and trap and contain the contaminants.
They are under "Tracy Lewis" signature series brand if you search on Jeg's site.
Could you please do an install video do the dual check valve can on a SHO. I haven't been able to install mine yet but an install video would be a huge help for myself and other SHO owners. Thanks in advance!
No, that would create a vacuum leak. You must dispose off as with any drain oil. Always leave closed when running.
I don’t understand something. Why do we need a check valve for a catch can when the stock hose doesn’t have one on it?
Just got the catch can today. I have a question. The can you sent me has a waterjet cut clamp that slips around the can with two 1/4-20 tapped holes that orient perpendicular to the can. In this video you have a piece of aluminum with the tapped holes TIG welded to the can vertically. With mine the tapped holes do not align with the long mounting bracket with the slot in it since they are perpendicular to the can and the slot is vertical. This would cause the can to mount horizontally which surely is not correct. How am I supposed to mount the can??
I ended up mounting the can in the engine bay next to the airbox. Not sure how it's supposed to go with the brackets you provide but I've got it working.
should I use them up or plug on side the cans I got came qith filter on top
How often should a catch can be emptied?
Okay, a few serious questions:
1) On the passenger side turbo intake, my 2011 already has a hose attached to it. What is that hose and could I just install the barb above there?
2) Why not just plug the drivers side turbo intake barb and install a single barb right up where the air intake splits? Avoid a lot of extra hose, the T, and uneven turbo draw because of the hose length differences?
3) Going the route of a single barb up further in the air intake, why have 2 "clear air" connections on the catch can? Just go with a single "clear air output" from the catch can and T it to the single air intake going to the turbo air intake and the exhaust manifold? At 12:40, the installer even says, "the can will always use the strongest suction source" so it doesn't matter if the suction (the catch can) has two direct inputs or just T down the line, as long as both inputs have a check valve , one of which will close in favor of the stronger suction source. (I'd assume at idle the turbos will suck on the intake and when moving the intake will draw air into the engine.)
Make sure to follow instructions just as they are described. Here is our main link for more info: www.RXCatchcans.com
The instruction at 27:50 is different on my 2011 F150 Ecoboost because that "already molded boss" fitting addition can't be done because there is already some other hose hooked up to the "already molded boss".
That would be the reinoculating valve connection. As long as you add a barb (included) as close to that molded connection as possible your good. The turbo inlet tubes provide in boost evacuation suction generated by the Venturi Effect from the incoming air flow past the barbs mouth. You can just use the drivers side, but that is not as effective. One of the flaws in Fords design is they only use intake manifold vacuum, which is only present at idle and deceleration. And that is why so little of the constantly entering contaminants remain in the crankcase to accumulate.
Great question.
With the Ford Ecoboost due to the flawed OEM PCV system design, there will be a much larger amount caught than many engine configurations. And if below 50* F the amount of water and un-burnt fuel is far more than in warm weather. The colder, the more of these caught. So, always check in say 200 or so miles to determine your vehicles rate of capture. And if you live in cold climates, ALWAYS get the "Monster" system as it is twice the capacity. Several other factors determine the oil amount, such as how well the piston rings seated in the first 200-300 miles of a new engine (run hard and engine braking results in a much better end result than babying like the owners manual states).
Less blow-by equals less oil caught.
Cheers!!
That's the problem.. they're using low tension rings... LT rings never seat plus have lots of blow-by which equals oil consumption, contamination,misfires ect ect...Surely there will be a class action lawsuit over this cover up... but I don't know as ford has deep pockets.
Yes, low tension rings require vacuum/suction to be pulled on the crankcase to seal properly for the most part. And they are used in most all GDI engines today for less parasitic power loss from the higher drag of HT rings. Just one of the many issues GDI engine owners need to be aware of.
the catch cans qorh the filters on top is the a bad idea?
very informative video. glad I bought a UPR
Hi Steve,
If the mileage is 10k or less, the amount of coking will be minimal, but if over that the only way to clean them is a manual cleaning such as we show in this video:
ruclips.net/video/7Pz0zTQ1bz0/видео.html
What you do NOT want to do is a solvent based upper induction cleaning as that can damage the turbos.
The main thing is to get the system on and extract what is already in the oil and crankcase (first drain will be the most as it takes out what has been accumulating). It is also a good idea to remove the CAC (intercooler), not a hard job, and clean it with a mix of degreaser like Purple Power, then rinse and drain for 1/2 hour or so. While the CAC is out, drill a small hole (5/64" or so) in the lowest part of the plastic end so water will be expelled like Volvo does on their turbo intercoolers.
This is an example of in the winter and the first drain so you know what to expect:
ruclips.net/video/dT0kpHpGQJ8/видео.html
Get the "Monster" can and email direct to order: RXProducts@aol.com or call: 727-235-1713. Beware of the cheap China made knock-offs!! They come from speedworks/gofastmuscle. They are NOT the genuine cans made int he USA.
Will your system void Ford's factory warranty?
awesome video! question---can the catch can petcock be just left open and drain continuously onto the pavement as you drive?...or does it need to always be closed and then drained when the engine is not running or even drained at idle?
The new Tracey Lewis cans look glued and pressed
i installed mine a few days ago on my 2011 ecoboost and im not getting that amount of air coming in my clean side separator. Sounds like a lot of suction when you put your thumb over it. what would cause this on mine?
At idle, you should have a good amount of suction on the CSS if you place a finger on the barb or hose end. Make sure you got the genuine system and not the cheap China counterfeits. They make the CSS from cheap plastic that melts and does not seal, and also does NOT allow enough flow through. Only www.TracyLewisPerformance.com and www.TeamRXP.com
I just traded in my 2012 F150 and removed the oil catch can before I traded it in. I Purchased a 2016 F150, can I use the catch can for my new truck or what changes I need to make? Thanks for your help
Yes you can. What you will need different is the adaptor for the flow sensor your 2016 has in the factory cleanside line now. It eliminates the CEL light coming on in most cases, but there are a few that still trigger CEL's. This is NOT an issue as far as anything wrong, but is annoying.
How did you like the results on your last truck? Email us direct for the adapter you need: RXProducts@aol.com
I cannot believe the crap that is drained out. I drain it every fill up. I have 42 miles on my new truck and I won't move it until I install the catch can. I'll email you for the info for the adapter for the flow sensor.
What interval to empty? All engines will be different due to how well rings seated, etc. But the Ecoboost has such an ineffective PCV system from the factory it generates far more than most so check at 100-200 miles and then judge. Never let the can get more than 1/3-1/2 full or effectiveness will be reduced.
Where can i get the catch can kit. I have a 2012 f150. Ecoboost 3.5.
3.5 is the ecoboost from 2011-2014. The 2.7 was added as an option in 2015. All take the same system, just 2015 and up use a different mounting bracket and mount in the engine compartment. For more details, email us direct at: RXProducts@aol.com and we are happy to assist.
What is your recommendation for someone that purchased a used 2013 F150 ecoboost? I did buy the truck from a Ford dealership, which makes me wonder if some type of modifications might have already been completed? I would certainly hope that there is a TSB on such a issue! If there was NOT any action to remedy this problem, how would someone go about cleaning the inside of the engine & valves?
Why can't I find any of these catch cans? I bought the knock off from jegs but it didn't come with the same catch can as shown in your video or the one way hoses or oem pcv connections
Since my 2014 Ford Explorer Sport has a 3.5L EcoBoost, I assume it would have the same problems? Would this be a similar install and advice for the CAC?
well if you got stuck with a 2014 Ford ecoBoost and it has over 40k miles without this catch can hasn't the damage already been done?
Is this recommended for all years of the ecoboost? 2011-2017?
Yes they are
Tracy, what the key disadvantage to just running to Driver side Turbo Inlet as opposed to using a T to access both Drivers and Passenger side Turbos?
Tapping into both will generate more vacuum when needed most, at full boost/wide open throttle. If run easy the one side seems to do fine.
what about the 2016 F150s
I will be putting it on a 2011 with 137,000 on it. Anxious to drain the aftercooler. Having misfire and check engine light.
does the kit come with the OEM barbs
How come when searching for your web site it automatically goes to RX speedworks?? Your cans were backordered on Jegs. I'm a buyer but the one I found on ebay says they are RX speedworks??
did not have oem fittings with the kit I just got nor any instructions for the install.
Yes it will, but the mounting location and brackets are different. The 2015-16 also has the flow sensor that the 2011-2014 does not. www.jegs.com/i/Tracy+Lewis/021/1TLPP301/10002/-1
or www.RXCatchcans.com
Email us direct at: APDEG@aol.com
To date, Ford keeps doing "band-aid" changes with little effect as they are not addressing the cause. They have added deflectors to make the CAC (intercooler) less effective (bad move) and have added a flow sensor for 2015 and up to reduce boost and power when the crankcase pressure rises and flow reverses. They are well aware of all of this as we have systems on the family of one of the Ford VP's as well as they have tested them at several dealers that now install them, etc. But to make any sizable change takes years once a vehicle is in production. We are in the final Patent stages for a self emptying version that meets emissions requirements that will be submitted once issued to each automaker so in the next 3-4 years people should see these on mass produced vehicles. In the meantime, most are doing internal separation and that is retaining the damaging compounds that cause wear and damage to the engines, another bad move.
I've got 75K miles on my eco boost. Is it worth to install at this point?
Absolutely. The intake valves will already be coked up so a manual cleaning of them is recommended, but the excessive fuel dilution and full time flushing the crankcase is well worth it. If valves are clean the average MPG gain is 8-10% and oil stays cleaner 2-3 times as long. www.RXCatchcans.com
Talked to Jeg's, they are going to correct this and will be carrying the official genuine RX cans in the near future. They got "the wool pulled over their eye's" and apologize. We will post up in all the installation video's when they have the "real" made in the USA versions in stock.
Sorry DJ! Let us know if we can be of more assistance.
+RX Performance Products, LLC Thanks! Where can I get a genuine version ordered?
Can you confirm if Jeg's is now carrying your official product and not a replica from China?
Vincent Rhodes As of today the catalog is still showing the made in china's, but they should have the real ones in app. 2 weeks. You can email direct: RXProducts@aol.com to order until then to get the genuine systems.
my 2012 ecoboost, on the passenger side where you drill for the fitting, I have a hose on there going towards the turbo, from the factory. would I just hook hose to hose and plug the hard plastic nipple?
No, you will have to drill and add the barb. Sorry for the late reply!! As close as you can get to the turbo in the same plastic tube.
I just had a shop do this for me today and he ended up not using the cap, he wasn't sure as he routed the vacuum to the left side of the car from the bottom of the tube where air flow feeds from. He told me he didn't see where in the video what to do with the cap and I seen you do it at 36:00. if this isn't used and the other inlet is capped off will this be a problem untill I have him fix it this week end or tomorrow?
It seems i have no air going into my driver side of the engine.
I ordered mine from Jeg's 3 days ago. It just arrived and my catch can does not look like the one shown in this video. The one in this video shows a welded lower end with a welded bung for the ballcock valve. Mine is not welded but appears to have pressed in ends. Also, it has a McNally Electronics decal on the side as well as a RX extremeautoproducts.com painted logo on the opposite side. What did I get? Is it genuine?
This is what I ordrered:
www.jegs.com/i/Extreme-Auto-Products/165/RXCCKDVF150E/10002/-1?parentProductId=3295020
Nope you got ripped off buddy, that can you got is 100% counterfeit.
Where can I buy one of these kits and a install dvd please let me know
When she says you can have the "clean side" but you know good and well that both sides are dirty.
All PCV systems have a "clean" or "fresh" side of the system, and a "dirty" or "foul" side. The cleanside is where the filtered fresh MAF metered air enters one bank or portion of the crankcase and flushes and replaces the dirty side where the contaminant laden vapors are evacuated or sucked out. So no, every PCV system has a fresh/clean side, and a foul/dirty side. Contrary to those that don't understand the PCV system or proper crankcase evacuation and only think of pressure and venting. Technology that was outdated in the mid 1960's. Were happy to have a civil technical discussion on any of this if you like. Education is a valuable thing.
Beware!!! rxspeedworks is NOT affiliated with us in anyway!! They have copied our installation videos w/out permission and are NOT allowed to use my likeness!
Do you have a Video for 2015 Ford F150 3.5 eco?
Also direct website address please
Great feedback! We just need to get another 2015-2016 in to show the mount location. The cleanside for 12105 & up has a flow sensor inline you move up to the new location. On early 2015's it may set a code but it effects nothing. The later trucks seem to have been revised to not throw a code, but not 100% sure. Also, some water can still accumulate in the CAC so a single small weep hole in the lowest portion of the plastic ends will prevent that.
All beware of the China Made knock-offs sell the RX brand. They are NOT made by us the originator! Email us direct for any support needed:
RXProducts@aol.com
One other thing: what's this about cleaning, what, throttle intake, or some such even after 2,500 miles? My '15 has 5,500 miles, reckon I need to clean whatever you said it is?
Search BMW Intake valve cleaning for some good videos. A manual cleaning of the intake valves to remove the current deposits is recommended. But usually not needed until 15-20k miles on the engine.
Tracy, at about 33:45 you said remove charge intercooler to clean. Is that the thing people have been drilling a small hole into so some of that mess can drain? In other words, you're saying that is what should be cleaned? I'm not talking about valves. My truck is new, I just want to prevent this gunk by using catch can.
Correct. Adding the small drain/weep hole will prevent more accumulation of water in the future as the can system stops the oil and other contaminates. I like to remove the CAC and rinse with a grease cutter (purple power, etc.) and then set on end to drain for a while so you get all cleaned out to start, then the small weep hole (1/6") at the lowest point of the plastic end cap on the drivers side works well.
To order direct the genuine RX system email us at: RXProducts@aol.com.
Speedworks is NOT affiliated with us and they are 2 guys selling cheap Chinese made knock offs from their homes. We will get pictures posted of what they are selling. They appear to be glued together as they came apart pretty easy:
[URL=s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html][IMG]i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/tech17/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html][IMG]i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/tech17/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
If Jegs is out of stock, just contact us direct. They are in stock and ready to ship!
Hey Terry this is Ron I have a question. I have a 2017 F150 3.5 eco-boost, there is no tang on the inlet side turbo passenger side to drill into, where would you recommend me drilling..??
As close to the turbo inlet as possible in the main inlet pipe.
Tracy Lewis Performance do you have to drill into the turbo in all year model ecoboost f150s? If so, does the turbo have to be removed to drill?
You can use just driverside, but it is best to T to passenger as well. No need to remove, coat drill bit with grease and it will trap/capture most all plastic. Just get the barb as close to the turbo as possible, but make sure it is in the INLET pipe.
engine hesitation when powering up 2011 V6 Escape I have tried G force resistor - turned engine light on.
Has to be something routed incorrectly. Please email us pictures of all routing and connections to: RXProducts@aol.com and we will look at it today (Saturday) and get back to you.
Gary, The signal the ECU is looking for is supplied by the MAP sensor (flow sensor to them) located in the cleanside line when stock of the 2015 and up ecoboost engines (well not the 1.6l) and it expects to see 3.7-4.5 volts due to crankcase pressure. When you install one of these systems, we defeat all pressure and are pulling suction on the crankcase at all times, so it will only show less than one volt in most cases. While this is a huge benefit to the engine, the CEL light is annoying. We need to have someone bring in a Ecoboost we can use for a few days to design the right fix. Anyone in FL that can bring us their ecoboost (F150, etc.) we will do this no charger and if you are getting one of our systems we will install it absolutely free.
Will the F150 Ecoboost can model work on my Explorer Sport 3.5L Ecoboost?
+nastystang113
Yes, sure will. The mount location is in the front of the engine compartment, but all installs basically the same.
Email us at: RXProducts@aol.com
Tyanks!
That plastic in the turbo inlet honestly makes my nervous ,could you at lease try to suck it out after drilling with a shop vaccum or something , I'm interested in installing this system on my 2016 expedition
what the ecoboost engine 3.5
Will do a video for the SHO as soon as we can get one in here. Email: RXproducts@aol.com to order for any gasoline powered car or light truck.
Good job, boys. I just ordered one today (RX) for my '15 3.5 Ecoboost, be installing it before I drive truck again. Makuloco connected a hose to both turbos. Why didn't y'all do that? Oh, and can't y'all stop these ridiculous Hecho en Chine copying mess? Dagnabbit, if I find out mine is Chinese mess, it's going right back! It shows plainly Made in USA on Amazon though, so I'm hoping so!
How can you say the pvc tube is full of oil when you got one drip out of it?
i just order one for my 2011 f150 ecoboost its this the same installation
This is the exact same way
To order, you must contact us directly: www.RXCatchcans.com
With Jegs, we suggest you return the cheap China knock-off for a refund (they are VERY good with returns) and they are carrying the latest design by us, the "Tracy Lewis Signature Series" . Also, Jeg's is showing our pictures, but shipping the cheap China knock-off's as the supplier has not updated this with them (not Jegs fault, they are quality. It is the supplier doing this causing the issues by pretending to be us).
Our apologies to all that have gotten "taken" by these cheap knock-off's. We hold the patents and are seeking remedy, but until they can be stopped, spread the word.
Let us know if we can be of more assistance in any way.
DJ, you ordered the correct one as the picture shows our made in the USA billet version, but what they sent you is the cheap made in China copy extremeautoproducts/ Mcnally cans. They are NOT what Jeg's is representing in the pictures in the catalog. We have notified them several times but get no response from them. Jeg's is not shipping cheap substitutes on purpose I don't believe, it is the company that is supplying them pulling the "fast one".
Let the slaes rep at Jeg's know what happened to you, and ask him to forward this to Lewis Pfeiffer, head of products so he knows whats happening. Spread the word as well, all sorts are getting "Taken" by the copies.
The "real deal" can be found by emailing: RXProducts@aol.com Jeg's has the cheap copies now and speedworks/gofastmuscle is also cheap copies.
For the 2015, here is a good video:
ruclips.net/video/MoWSBArvPXE/видео.html
Why isn't Ford doing anything about this since its a known issue?
When is a video for the 2015 3.5's going to be uploaded? I ordered my Rx Catch can months ago for my 2015, it's still sitting brand new in the box. A step by step video tutorial would be great since the current kits do not account for aluminum bodies or the fact that the grill is NOT fixed to the hood. So mounting in this video is irrelevant for the 2015's.
Yes, draining the intercooler (CAC) is important! You may also need to do a manual intake valve cleaning as well as shown in our video on this procedure.
To contact us, email direct: RXProducts@aol.com BEWARE of the cheap China made knockoffs from speedworks!
Here are pictures of how cheaply made they are...appear to be glued together!
s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html
s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html
Always in stock ready to ship.
Website is down, but email us direct: RXProducts@aol.com for any info.
The 2015 we are re-doing video. The cheap Chinese knock-offs are confusing as they also copied all our emails so we are redoing all.
This is the ONLY genuine separators from the inventor/designer.
Thanks!!
What about their 100000mile warranty. This is a patch or just a plain simple way to hide or cover up the engines faults. I'll keep my V8.Also is ford paying you back for the oil?
Ford recently dropped warranty on the GDI engines to 36k miles. GM dropped theirs to 60k miles, and rumor is going to lower it further. Our systems correct the issues at the source of the cause. To date, all we have seen from Ford is addressing the issues after they happen VS changing the PCV system to one proper for a turbo application.
Yes it will. Just email us direct at: RXProducts@aol.com and we can help with anything you need.
Thanks!!
Shame on you ford for not foreseeing and correcting your flaw!!!!
Correct. You got taken. Let Jegs know as they will promptly refund you. And you can add you do NOT want the McNally.
Here is a link to the Jegs versions:
www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=tracy+lewis
TeamRXP has the genuine tig welded RX cans. www.teamRXP.com
Email us direct to see pictures of the knock-offs that have come apart on customers: RXProducts@aol.com
Cheers!
For tech support or to contact the original designer of these email: RXProducts@aol.com
Anyone, pop off your charge tubes from the CAC (intercooler) and see what is in it.
If you purchased from anyone BUT the original RX Performance Products, LLC or JEGS.com. you may very well have gotten the cheap Chinese knock off and don't have the correct OEM fittings or brackets. And of course the cheap pressed together China can. speedworks or any other URL are the knock-offs (2 ex employee's) and have nothing to do with us, the designers and founders.
For the "real deal" email us direct: RXProducts@aol.com
As we are NOT retailers, we do not advertise. JEGS.com and RXProducts@aol.com (and several dealers as well) can provide the original, genuine systems with all you need, and the tech support needed.
Our appologies for the unscrupulous copies. We are the ONLY original RX Performance Products, LLC. (look up in sunbiz.org for validation). Any other with RX in the name are not us.
Just trade in your truck every 5 years, problem solved 😂
Yes. Any tech support just email: RXProducts@aol.com
To order Jegs carry's these (search "Tracy Lewis" to find them on www.jegs.com)
And www.RXCatchcans.com or email us direct at: RXProducts@aol.com
I simply cannot believe people are falling for this cover up. I would get a lawyer and make ford fix it right.
There was a hearing with the NTSB looking into the crashes, etc. when hydro-lock would occur passing a car or up a hill and rod would go through block causing oil slick and loss of control. But Ford testified it was from "driving in rain" and it was dismissed. Google search: Ford Ecoboost NTSB investigation".
Email RX direct at: RXProducts@aol.com Jegs should have the genuine cans up in the next couple of weeks.
Yes, comes with OEM fittings. Also, the can now comes with a clamp mount for more flexibility. To order, visit www.RXCatchcans.com.com NOTE! www.revxtreme is NOT to the genuine original system. The rx websites may bring you to a made in China knock-off!
www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=Tracy+Lewis
My last question is how can Ford engineers be this stupid....and get away with it???
No you did not. You have one of the cheap China knock-offs. I would return it ASAP and order a genuine unit made in the USA and tig welded. Those cheap copies can come apart as they are just glued and pressed together. Jeg's is good about returns, and let them know what they are shipping is NOT what is pictured in the catalog online!!!
+RX Performance Products, LLC Thanks. I've contacted Jegs and they will be taking my return. But now I need to know how to get a genuine version. Where can I order?
ONLY order the Genuine systems for us direct or from Jegs.com www.RXCatchcans.com The counterfeiters pretending to be us like teamrxp are NOT affiliated with us and are COUNTERFEITS!!!
Yes. Email direct: RXProducts@aol.com
Beware of speedworks!! They are cheap china made knock offs!! The true RX systems are 100% made in the USA. RXProducts@aol.com
Here are pictures of how cheaply made they are...appear to be glued together!
s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg.html
s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg.html
hahahahahaha Ford and their better ideas.
And GM for 2016 and up deleted the intake manifold vacuum for evacuation leaving most of the wear causing contaminates in the crankcase to try and slow the coking formation. Crazy bandaid's ant the expense of the consumer instead of doing it right. Save a 1/2 cent here and there and have an engine likely to only last 1/4th as long as before. Get the idiot upper management OUT of the engineers business and let them design it right!
Fix it !!buy a chevy!!
Frank the fuck you mean buy a Chevy chevy vehicles are junk. engine failure at 19k miles or less so many chevy vehicles have let us down even with proper maintenance vs a little catch can that you drain when you check your oil at the gas pump? fuck government motors obama shoulda let chevy shut down
Frank hey man if you want to avoid the problem you get a Chevrolet, if you want to fix the problem you do this. ruclips.net/video/jgk5RSUnOhE/видео.html
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