Awesome! I’m glad it helped! I’m actually going to be doing this same replacement again on one of my other trucks, so I’ll end up watching it again myself! Haha
Hey Bj, good video. You gave great tips, I am about to do the same repair. I do have point out one thing. The size of the two pins on the rag joint do matter. They need to be snug in the coupler so the stress of steering is dispersed at four points. With the gap you have now between the pins there is only the two bolts that are carrying the stress of steering, it will also add to play in your steering. Yes, the rag joint you installed will work. But the life span of the rag joint will be shortened. I Ike your videos, keep them coming. I plan on posting videos of my 68 F100 project myself. Thank you for the info.
It sounds like you've done this job a time or two! I did not know that, I guess I may have to find a rag joint with some larger studs then! And thank you for the compliment, I don't do them frequently, only when the info is not on youtube already!
Great video, gave me all the info i needed to get the job done! I still have the 3 speed on the column and didn't have to disconnect anything to remove and install. The 12 point bolt is a 7/16 not a 7/8 i think that's what the other comment below was. Looking forward to a drive and see how she feels.
I'm about to give up. I can't get the steering column to move at all. I need maybe 3/4 of an inch. nothing moves. That gap you have iunder the steering wheel isn't appearing. All bolts are loose, some even out entirely. No movement. Nothing to pry against, it just won't move. Am I missing something, or is the shaft in the column rusted up? Now I can't drive it at all, because the joint is seperated. No steering at all. I'm wishing I left well enough alone. Is there something under the steering wheel I was supposed to loosen? I haven't taken it off, because it doesn't look like it was done here in this video.
You should not have to do anything under the wheel. Just the bolts that attach the coupler, the two bolts under the dash, and that's about it. The joint on the end of the steering shaft can meld together via softened rubber and rust. You may have to pry or beat that joint apart. Also, it may be easier to do with the other end of the rag joint disconnected from the steering box. Then you can lift up on steering shaft/rag joint assembly, and hit it off of the steering shaft. If you're still stuck, don't hesitate to reach out to me at BJsClassicClusters@gmail.com and I will help you the best I can! Good luck!
@@bjsclassicclusters Success at last. Copious amounts of BJ blaster, and a big hammer. The shaft was just frozen in place. It hasn't been moved since 1967 after all. Seeing that space between the wheel and column told me it should move, so I went for it a bit more aggressively, and there it is. Thanks again for the detailed video.
@@bjsclassicclusters Thanks. I love that old truck, and I'll keep it running as long as I can. The great thing about older cars, is that a guy with even mediocre skills, and arthritic hands like me can stll work on them. I also have a 73 Dodge Dart I keep running.
No joke?! That's quite the failure!! I'm glad I was able to help! The only reason I made the video was since I couldn't find one that showed the job done! I hope your steering is ten times better now!
Thank you! I really appreciate that! I have seen the engine bays of the cars from the same era, things are definitely tighter! Best of luck! It's really not a terrible job!
@@bjsclassicclusters Your welcome. I got mine out but unfortunately no one sells them new for the 66 Tbird 🤯. I found a used one and a rebuilt one on eBay. $100 buy it now used. $200 or best offer for rebuilt 😮. Edit If you respond to my message give me a thumbs up. That way I'll get a notification on it and know that you responded 👍🏻
I have also been heavily researching a rag joint replacement on my Australian made 79 f100. Ordered the replacement from LMC truck and the alignment nipples are different sizes also. I will not fit this. Currently looking at the replacement for a 1970 mustang which seems very similar. Waiting to hear measurements from the supplier.
The symptom of a bad/failing rag joint would be freeplay in the steering. Luckily the rag joint is pretty exposed inside the engine compartment, so if yours is going bad, you would probably be able to tell from a visual inspection.
On your steering box you have a lock nut on the top with a flat blade screw in the center of it. Loosen the lock nut and turn the flathead screw a 1/4 turn, it will tighten the steering box up a decent bit. Your steering box is worn out a bit lol. I've had a 69 short bed and I have a 71 long bed now. Whatever you do don't sell your 69, I did and regret it all the time.
Don’t worry, the 69 isn’t going anywhere! Too many memories with it! The lock nut adjustment is in another video I did. That still didn’t resolve the issue. I have to replace the box yet.
@@natesv04 hey, no problem! Yeah, I need to make a video of the steering box removal/replacement when I finally get to it. It’s been too long since I’ve made a video.
I got just a kit with the resilient center and various stud bolts nuts and washers. I put the pwr gearbox and column from a 79 in my 66. The flange on the gearbox had pins with heads . Cut the heads off and they came out easy , not splined
@@bjsclassicclustersThe column flange were just threaded studs with nuts. I just didn't know if the bottom was threaded at all as the pins have like a 9/16 diameter post/knob on both. I assume their purpose is to align with the upper slots to give a stop rather than relying on the material.
Experiencing the same exact problem. Thanks for posting this. But I'm wondering is it just the adjustment screw that's the issue? Did it get rid of the wheel play? Seems the rag joint didn't do much. I didn't want to change mine out and have the same wheel play if the adjustment screw can resolve it.
Watch the other video I made on adjusting the steering box screw. It did make quite a difference, but after a couple weeks the play came back, so unfortunately I will be buying and installing a new box. Which, I will make a video of. ruclips.net/video/JEFCYy7j9es/видео.html
No problem! The contacts in the horn button wore out, and the previous owner moved the horn to that button on the column. I wish he would have just replaced the contacts in the button, but that's not the case.
Not off of the top of my head! Are you looking for the socket size or the thread and pitch of each? I’m assuming the latter of the two could vary. Especially with aftermarket parts.
@billyfromtheusa it sure does sound like it! That's my biggest fear, is what else I will find when I start tearing into it... but like I said, I'll do a video since I can't find one. I don't really like recording myself, but if it helps someone else, it's worth doing.
you maybe able to adjust the steering box but looks like too much free play check all your steering tie rod ends replace if there bad also check your king pins and your pivot bushing also your radius bushing. The steering box should never have that much free play.
HAHA! I love the simplicity of a 6 cylinder! Those headers sure can get in the way! Imagine having a big block and a 4wd steering box in the way! I can only imagine that would be the most frustrating setup!
thanks for this vid. I will have to do the same thing on my 72 f250 also manual steering. My problem is that I am taking off the exhaust manifold because they are completely blow out. Broke a few of the bolts right next to the steering column and that is in the way. Can you suggest or point me in the right direction to moving that out of the way? Or is it just impossible and have to remove it all to gain access to the broken bolts?
I would undo this coupler/joint, and then remove the 4/6 bolts bolting the column to the firewall, as well as the two bolts holding it to the dash, and completely get the column out of your way!
5 years later, this is still helping someone [me] get the job done. Thanks. There are other videos, but the detail in this one is great.
I appreciate the kind words! Thank you!
It's these comments that made the effort worth it!
Thank you for sharing all these information. Rebuilding a 1965 f100 step side
@@AldoFelix-q9o way cool! Best of luck on the rebuild!!
Bj, great video, great lighting, great narration. Your video was the only one I could find covering the flex link replacement. Thank you so much!
Awesome! I’m glad it helped! I’m actually going to be doing this same replacement again on one of my other trucks, so I’ll end up watching it again myself! Haha
Hey Bj, good video. You gave great tips, I am about to do the same repair. I do have point out one thing. The size of the two pins on the rag joint do matter. They need to be snug in the coupler so the stress of steering is dispersed at four points. With the gap you have now between the pins there is only the two bolts that are carrying the stress of steering, it will also add to play in your steering. Yes, the rag joint you installed will work. But the life span of the rag joint will be shortened. I Ike your videos, keep them coming. I plan on posting videos of my 68 F100 project myself. Thank you for the info.
It sounds like you've done this job a time or two! I did not know that, I guess I may have to find a rag joint with some larger studs then! And thank you for the compliment, I don't do them frequently, only when the info is not on youtube already!
Thanks for the instructions. I'm trying to replace the rag joint on my 1971 f-100.
No problem! How did it go??
Great video, gave me all the info i needed to get the job done! I still have the 3 speed on the column and didn't have to disconnect anything to remove and install. The 12 point bolt is a 7/16 not a 7/8 i think that's what the other comment below was. Looking forward to a drive and see how she feels.
Ah, I see what you mean! Glad I could help! If any video helps at least one person, it was worth my while! Keep em' on the road!
Great video...just what we where looking for!
Thank you! And you're welcome!
I'm about to give up. I can't get the steering column to move at all. I need maybe 3/4 of an inch. nothing moves. That gap you have iunder the steering wheel isn't appearing. All bolts are loose, some even out entirely. No movement. Nothing to pry against, it just won't move. Am I missing something, or is the shaft in the column rusted up? Now I can't drive it at all, because the joint is seperated. No steering at all. I'm wishing I left well enough alone. Is there something under the steering wheel I was supposed to loosen? I haven't taken it off, because it doesn't look like it was done here in this video.
You should not have to do anything under the wheel. Just the bolts that attach the coupler, the two bolts under the dash, and that's about it.
The joint on the end of the steering shaft can meld together via softened rubber and rust. You may have to pry or beat that joint apart.
Also, it may be easier to do with the other end of the rag joint disconnected from the steering box. Then you can lift up on steering shaft/rag joint assembly, and hit it off of the steering shaft.
If you're still stuck, don't hesitate to reach out to me at BJsClassicClusters@gmail.com and I will help you the best I can!
Good luck!
@@bjsclassicclusters Success at last. Copious amounts of BJ blaster, and a big hammer. The shaft was just frozen in place. It hasn't been moved since 1967 after all. Seeing that space between the wheel and column told me it should move, so I went for it a bit more aggressively, and there it is. Thanks again for the detailed video.
@@onusgumboot5565 so glad to hear you got it! Great work and good job keeping it on the road!
@@bjsclassicclusters Thanks. I love that old truck, and I'll keep it running as long as I can. The great thing about older cars, is that a guy with even mediocre skills, and arthritic hands like me can stll work on them. I also have a 73 Dodge Dart I keep running.
That sensor/switch above the shift linkages is the reverse light switch.
Which explains why my reverse light is now a toggle switch on the dash, since someone converted it to a floor shift!
Thanks man! Just bought a 66 f250 camper special and day 1 noticed this and mine was ripped almost all the way through. Helped with my replacement
No joke?! That's quite the failure!! I'm glad I was able to help! The only reason I made the video was since I couldn't find one that showed the job done! I hope your steering is ten times better now!
This really helped with the install👌 steering is better 🤟
I'll have to do this on my 66Tbird. I wish mine was as accessible as yours. Mine is gonna be a headache lol. Good video thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I really appreciate that! I have seen the engine bays of the cars from the same era, things are definitely tighter! Best of luck! It's really not a terrible job!
@@bjsclassicclusters Your welcome. I got mine out but unfortunately no one sells them new for the 66 Tbird 🤯. I found a used one and a rebuilt one on eBay. $100 buy it now used. $200 or best offer for rebuilt 😮.
Edit If you respond to my message give me a thumbs up. That way I'll get a notification on it and know that you responded 👍🏻
I have also been heavily researching a rag joint replacement on my Australian made 79 f100. Ordered the replacement from LMC truck and the alignment nipples are different sizes also. I will not fit this. Currently looking at the replacement for a 1970 mustang which seems very similar. Waiting to hear measurements from the supplier.
Simon Turner go figure! Hopefully you get the answers your looking for!! Keep us posted!
What are symptoms of bad / failing rag joint? I'm working on 69 f250
The symptom of a bad/failing rag joint would be freeplay in the steering. Luckily the rag joint is pretty exposed inside the engine compartment, so if yours is going bad, you would probably be able to tell from a visual inspection.
On your steering box you have a lock nut on the top with a flat blade screw in the center of it. Loosen the lock nut and turn the flathead screw a 1/4 turn, it will tighten the steering box up a decent bit. Your steering box is worn out a bit lol. I've had a 69 short bed and I have a 71 long bed now. Whatever you do don't sell your 69, I did and regret it all the time.
Don’t worry, the 69 isn’t going anywhere! Too many memories with it!
The lock nut adjustment is in another video I did. That still didn’t resolve the issue. I have to replace the box yet.
@@bjsclassicclusters guess I need to check out your other videos, I learned this a long time ago. Awesome truck, keep it up!
Oh by the way thanks for this video, helped me and my old truck a bunch lol. Had to learn how to drive it again once I changed out the rag joint.
@@natesv04 hey, no problem! Yeah, I need to make a video of the steering box removal/replacement when I finally get to it. It’s been too long since I’ve made a video.
I was hoping to find a video replacing the joint itself rather than the complete coupler
@@robertarthurs328 I know it’s possible… but I’ve personally never done it.
I got just a kit with the resilient center and various stud bolts nuts and washers. I put the pwr gearbox and column from a 79 in my 66. The flange on the gearbox had pins with heads . Cut the heads off and they came out easy , not splined
@@bjsclassicclustersThe column flange were just threaded studs with nuts. I just didn't know if the bottom was threaded at all as the pins have like a 9/16 diameter post/knob on both. I assume their purpose is to align with the upper slots to give a stop rather than relying on the material.
Experiencing the same exact problem. Thanks for posting this. But I'm wondering is it just the adjustment screw that's the issue? Did it get rid of the wheel play? Seems the rag joint didn't do much. I didn't want to change mine out and have the same wheel play if the adjustment screw can resolve it.
Watch the other video I made on adjusting the steering box screw. It did make quite a difference, but after a couple weeks the play came back, so unfortunately I will be buying and installing a new box. Which, I will make a video of.
ruclips.net/video/JEFCYy7j9es/видео.html
Thanks for the video
By the way what is that little button that was mounted to your steering column?
No problem! The contacts in the horn button wore out, and the previous owner moved the horn to that button on the column. I wish he would have just replaced the contacts in the button, but that's not the case.
@@bjsclassicclusters right on thanks
Hello do you know the size of the two main bolts on the rag joint ?
Not off of the top of my head! Are you looking for the socket size or the thread and pitch of each?
I’m assuming the latter of the two could vary. Especially with aftermarket parts.
@@bjsclassicclusters I was able to get it off thankyou for the response they were 1/2 inch just working on the pitman arm now
@@captainshimmer7319 awesome! Keep up the good work dude!
thank you helped a bunch
Awesome! I'm so glad to hear that!
I'll be doing a '73-'79 gauge cluster video here soon!
Thank you
Do you happen to know is the steering box has 36 pline?
I do not know without looking, but I will look and let you know!
billyfromtheusa thank you for that! I forgot all about checking. Going to do a steering box replacement video soon, and was going to check then.
@billyfromtheusa it sure does sound like it! That's my biggest fear, is what else I will find when I start tearing into it... but like I said, I'll do a video since I can't find one. I don't really like recording myself, but if it helps someone else, it's worth doing.
The switch is reverse lights
I did not know that! Thank you! Would explain why my reverse lights are now on a toggle switch inside the cab!
Bolts need fresh loctite applied before re assembly
I think the surface rust on everything pretty much holds the two together! LOL! Maybe I should have used anti-seize instead! Haha!
you maybe able to adjust the steering box but looks like too much free play check all your steering tie rod ends replace if there bad also check your king pins and your pivot bushing also your radius bushing. The steering box should never have that much free play.
7/16" 12 point...
I'm sorry, what?
So easy on a six banger,FE with headers,not so much.
HAHA! I love the simplicity of a 6 cylinder! Those headers sure can get in the way! Imagine having a big block and a 4wd steering box in the way! I can only imagine that would be the most frustrating setup!
yep,71 highboy with headers is next.
@@duccanard9079 sounds like nothing but PITA, but luckily you shouldn't have to do it often.
thanks for this vid. I will have to do the same thing on my 72 f250 also manual steering. My problem is that I am taking off the exhaust manifold because they are completely blow out. Broke a few of the bolts right next to the steering column and that is in the way. Can you suggest or point me in the right direction to moving that out of the way? Or is it just impossible and have to remove it all to gain access to the broken bolts?
I would undo this coupler/joint, and then remove the 4/6 bolts bolting the column to the firewall, as well as the two bolts holding it to the dash, and completely get the column out of your way!
Thank you
You’re welcome!