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Bj
Добавлен 11 ноя 2011
1980-1986 Ford Truck Instrument Cluster Refurbish with Tach Add, LED Bulbs, and Gauge Testing
This video demonstrates the process use when I do a tachometer addition to a 1980-86 Ford Truck Instrument Cluster.
This process includes:
Disassembly
Gauge Testing
LED Bulb testing
And a Final Product
Notes:
-Please note that 4k (4,500 without yellow/red zones on right side) and 6k RPM tachs can be used for gas applications only! For diesel applications, a 4,500 (with yellow/red zones on right side) or 3,500 Tach must be used.
-As mentioned there will be some minute differences for the 1980 year. For this application you will need a 1980 circuit with a Tach circuit (engineering number E0TZ-10K843-B). This will be designated by a “E0TF-10C956-BB” part number on the printed circuit.
For the 1981-1...
This process includes:
Disassembly
Gauge Testing
LED Bulb testing
And a Final Product
Notes:
-Please note that 4k (4,500 without yellow/red zones on right side) and 6k RPM tachs can be used for gas applications only! For diesel applications, a 4,500 (with yellow/red zones on right side) or 3,500 Tach must be used.
-As mentioned there will be some minute differences for the 1980 year. For this application you will need a 1980 circuit with a Tach circuit (engineering number E0TZ-10K843-B). This will be designated by a “E0TF-10C956-BB” part number on the printed circuit.
For the 1981-1...
Просмотров: 16 814
Видео
1973-1979 Ford Truck Instrument Cluster Upgrade / Swap Rebuild With LED Bulbs And Gauge Testing
Просмотров 35 тыс.4 года назад
This lengthy video pertains to 1973-1979 Ford F100, F250, and F350 trucks. In this video, the following is covered: -Cluster Disintegrating / Rot / Crumbling (1975-1979) -The Difference Between Clusters - 0:03:30 -Easy Cluster Swap / Rebuild / Upgrade Explanation and Information (1975-1979) 0:4:30 -Instrument Cluster Tear Down / Take Apart / Disassemble - 0:13:52 -Gauge Removal - 0:16:59 -Speed...
F-100 Steering Gear Rack Adjustment
Просмотров 12 тыс.5 лет назад
Manual steering gear / manual steering box rack adjustment on a 1969 Ford F100. This will apply to all 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, and 1972 Ford Trucks. For trucks with Power Steering, those boxes can also be adjusted the same way, but be sure to tighten the jamb but to torque specs, since those see more pressure than a manual box. This may also apply to 1973-1979 Ford trucks as well. Thank Y...
F-100 Rag Joint Replacement
Просмотров 38 тыс.5 лет назад
Rag Joint / Steering Coupler Replacement on a 1969 Ford F100. Will apply to all 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, and 1972 Ford F-Series Trucks. This may also apply to 1973-1979 Ford Trucks as well. Thank you for watching. You can also catch my Bumpside shenanigans on my Instagram @fifthgenfever or on my favorite FB group “Bump Nation ‘67-‘72 Ford Trucks!”
I'm about to give up. I can't get the steering column to move at all. I need maybe 3/4 of an inch. nothing moves. That gap you have iunder the steering wheel isn't appearing. All bolts are loose, some even out entirely. No movement. Nothing to pry against, it just won't move. Am I missing something, or is the shaft in the column rusted up? Now I can't drive it at all, because the joint is seperated. No steering at all. I'm wishing I left well enough alone. Is there something under the steering wheel I was supposed to loosen? I haven't taken it off, because it doesn't look like it was done here in this video.
You should not have to do anything under the wheel. Just the bolts that attach the coupler, the two bolts under the dash, and that's about it. The joint on the end of the steering shaft can meld together via softened rubber and rust. You may have to pry or beat that joint apart. Also, it may be easier to do with the other end of the rag joint disconnected from the steering box. Then you can lift up on steering shaft/rag joint assembly, and hit it off of the steering shaft. If you're still stuck, don't hesitate to reach out to me at BJsClassicClusters@gmail.com and I will help you the best I can! Good luck!
@@bjsclassicclusters Success at last. Copious amounts of BJ blaster, and a big hammer. The shaft was just frozen in place. It hasn't been moved since 1967 after all. Seeing that space between the wheel and column told me it should move, so I went for it a bit more aggressively, and there it is. Thanks again for the detailed video.
5 years later, this is still helping someone [me] get the job done. Thanks. There are other videos, but the detail in this one is great.
I appreciate the kind words! Thank you! It's these comments that made the effort worth it!
I was hoping to find a video replacing the joint itself rather than the complete coupler
@@robertarthurs328 I know it’s possible… but I’ve personally never done it.
I got just a kit with the resilient center and various stud bolts nuts and washers. I put the pwr gearbox and column from a 79 in my 66. The flange on the gearbox had pins with heads . Cut the heads off and they came out easy , not splined
@@bjsclassicclustersThe column flange were just threaded studs with nuts. I just didn't know if the bottom was threaded at all as the pins have like a 9/16 diameter post/knob on both. I assume their purpose is to align with the upper slots to give a stop rather than relying on the material.
How did you know to flip the signal bulbs 180• like that?!
@@zzddzzzz polarity! It’s real! Lol
What paint do you use for the needles?
Dylan, I typically use some sort of fluorescent orange or red... But I have heard of people using finger nail polish and also having success.
By the way I made a mistake the 76 had dummy lights for the oil and temperature that's why the den would not work so at 76 with the clusters all four gauges with the speedometer cable probably would
I normally don't watch videos that are this long to boot however you did your homework and are very informative thank you very much I ended up switching a my fuel gauge my MPH g because it was 100 mi an hour gauge... And have a bunch of extra parts thank you very much you did some awesome homework
I'm glad you had some success! Good work!
I'm not sure what they go to but my 78 has cruise control in the steering column and tilt steering the 76 did not have tilt and it has an aftermarket cruise control that is mechanical and electronic the mechanical goes into the original speedometer and then back out of the box the mechanical box with a speedometer cable that goes to the transmission after that
I've heard of the 78/79 cruise control on the wheel, but have not yet come across one that is attached to the speedometer cable. Yet. In time I'm sure I will. I'd love to see pictures of what you're working with.
Just for the record who scored a mint condition 30,000 mi 76 chateau gauge cluster it will not fit my 78 as the plug-in doesn't have enough room as there's a couple extra dens on my 78 other than that they're identical
How many pins is the chateau cluster? It would always be possible to make a conversion plug between the two. Something I may be able to do.
Great video. I have an 85. Replaced all the bulbs with dimmable leds. The brake indicator light. Just flickers when ignition is cycled and no longer comes on with park brake engaged. Does that bulb need to be incandescent. To work properly?
I typically leave that bulb as incandescent, because it shares a circuit with another circuit loop. If it flickers during ignition, then you know the bulb works... it may be purely coincidental, but it could be worth taking a look at the switch on the parking brake mechanism.
Thank you for sharing all these information. Rebuilding a 1965 f100 step side
@@AldoFelix-q9o way cool! Best of luck on the rebuild!!
Doesn’t mess up the odometer?
I have a 1885 f800 dash and the fuel, oil pressure gauge, and temp are not working any ideas?
I would say check your fuses, your grounds, and replace your tiny voltage regulator on the back. In that order.
Thank you.
How do you test the led lights one you installed them in the cluster
Easiest way is to honestly plug them into the truck and pull the light switch!
You should add the disassembly/reassembly in fast play 😕
Can you test the gauges by gator clipping your leads straight to the back of the cluster with a potentiometer?
The absolute easiest way to test a gauge is to ground the sending unit wire with the key on. Otherwise, a simple AA/AAA battery supplies a safe voltage to test a gauge. A potentiometer is a complex instrument for this technology! lol
@@bjsclassicclusters Awesome, thank you! One more question, how did you test the LED’s after installing them back into the cluster?
@@ayyejustin there's no good way to do that, unfortunately. The best way for you to do it would be to plug it back into your truck (harness only) and test bulbs with the bezel still out of the way. Then you can key off, remove bulb (with harness still attached), make corrections/contact as needed, and reinstall.
@@bjsclassicclusters thank you for being so informative, I just bought my 1985 F150 and have never worked on cars my entire life, this will be my first project so I’m excited for it but it is going to be a big learning curve for me.
@@ayyejustin you've got this! If you run into any hiccups, don't hesitate to reach out to me via my FB page. That's a quicker way to get ahold of me.
Want to clean the inside glass on the cluster can I remocmve and clean?
You most definitely can!
How can I contact you?
You can find me on FB on my business page at BJ'sClassicClusters, or shoot me an email at BJsClassicClusters@gmail.com
When you remove those lights behind the cluster…. if you look carefully under the tabs that touch the instrument panel. You will notice that there is a concave little spot underneath.. what I did to ensure proper contact of those little tabs is to lift them up ever so slightly. Once that is done., then take a hot glue gun and put a little tiny drop of glue under both tabs of the affected lights. Put the light back in and you will notice that your lights will then work properly. Now , I can’t tell you how long this will work, but logically speaking I can’t ever see an issue happen by doing so. I’ve been messing around with this for a couple years now , and finally came up with what I feel is a 100% proper repair. I hope this helps everybody because all the videos online are telling you to check connection, etc. etc. I don’t have any connection issues except for where the light pushes on that electrical circuit . And what’s nice about this repair is that you’re not altering the dash cluster. you’re only putting the glue onto the light behind the tabs and if it doesn’t work, it’s a super easy fix to try again. ( just put a little bit more glue next time if need be.)
Not a bad idea at all! I typically find that just by slightly bending the tabs, and cleaning the contacts, that is enough to make a drastic change in connectivity. I do this with every cluster I lay hands on, to ensure proper connectivity. I never have an issue with a bulb not illuminating after doing so.
What kind of bulbs are you using?
194 LEDS!
Hi, do you rebuild clusters? how do I contact you?
Why yes I do! You can contact me on Facebook by visiting my page, BJ's Classic Clusters, or email me at BJ'sClassicClusters@gmail.com
I have problems with the lights, I changed the bulbs and the dashboard cannot be illuminated strongly, how could I solve this problem?
it sounds like you could possibly need a new headlight switch, as the dimming ability gets worse as the part ages.
Thanks for the video. My cluster is fell apart in my hands this last week as I pulled it out to see why it was not working. My truck is a 77 with the same cluster as the one you bought that didn’t match with the light warnings rather than the gauges. I cannot just buy the same year and plug and play I am guessing from your video. What van did you pull it from, is it the large older Ford vans so I can look in my local pic a part. I may have missed that in your video.
If you're uncomfortable tackling this yourself, I have actually started doing them for others. Check me out on FB/Insta: BJsClassicClusters But, to answer your question, new housings are available for purchase new. They typically run around $100+. You can find a warning light cluster from a 76-79 truck or 76-91 Econoline. Assuming everything on that cluster still works, of course.
I have found one that has the lights but has flashers as well. Will that work?
@@LanceRigby what do you mean by flashers?
when I rebuilt my motor on my 86, I bought a cluster out of a junkyard, I bought 1 that had the tach. I rolled the speedo back to 0 so my mileage will be correct on the motor
Way to go! Not the easiest feat! But I'm glad you figured it out! Nice work!
makes it a lot easier to remember to change the oil
Can this also apply to an 1990 Econoline gauge cluster considering it’s the same?
Most definitely!
I have an 81 f150 and the turn signal indicators don’t illuminate. I’ve replaced the bulbs and nothing. Any ideas? I do hear the flasher and the lights outside work.
Are the bulb contacts touching the bulb socket contacts? I know the 73-79 trucks have an issue where the ground for the turn signal housing at the grille goes bad and you have to replace the turn signal bulb socket. It could also be that... Those are my two best guesses.
what leds are these look pretty good
They are 5SMD 194 LED bulbs!
Nice work. I pulled my cluster and one of the round pieces that connects the ribbon to the voltage regulator is gone. Any thoughts on how to repair? No idea what that part would be called. Also, what orange paint do you use on the needles?
Chris! Any fluorescent orange should do! Sorry to hear about your printed circuit... Unless you're REALLY handy with a soldering iron (solder 9v battery terminal to board, as that's what those connectors are) it typically needs replacing. If that's something you don't want to meddle with, I have good circuits on hand and would be more than willing!
Having issues with 86 f150 dash lights not working change a few bulbs still nothing headlights work not sure if it could be headlight switch
Culprit is more than likely the headlight switch being turned down all of the way (headlight switch knob turns to dim illumination), or the switch is bad and simply needs replaced. It's probably a $20 part and 15 minutes of your time. For how easily they wear out, it's not a bad idea to replace anyhow.
Do we have front access/pull out of the bulbs from the top illumination line-up with appropriate grip tool. And reinsert from the front also ?! Or do we actually have to spend the time and remove the next layer' of screws, and carefully pull out the inner panel to access the backside lineup of black twist'n pulls on the panel, to then remove/replace the bulb(s) ? Thanks . '82 F100 V6-3.8, 3onT
You could attempt to remove/insert from the front... but I'm afraid you'd break a bulb and end up having to remove the entire cluster anyhow. Also, some LEDs are polar specific, and you will need to see the cluster wiring to determine polarity anyhow.
After my query here, I actually stumbled across existence of bulb gripper pliers within my copy of the LMC complementary Ford parts+ catalogue. Chkd a local (bricks 'n mortar)supplier and surprisingly fd they had a Titan' model, in-stock for $10cdn vs $11us plus S&H from LMC wooow ! And successfully extracted/replaced the 5 bulbs with #194 sylvania LEDs with no breakage, just the LED polarity issue (4 out of 5 in error), so a bit of practice'. LoL Luckily the LEDs had a red microdot on one side of their input wedge' .
@@CentralCanada I'd say you made out fantastically then! Great work! I know the LEDs make such a difference! I know you will enjoy them!
Is there a specific color LED that you used? Cool blue, green white?👍🏼
6500k White/ 194WLED/Philips@@porfiriomendozaiii9837
Do you know the wiring from the distributor to the tach for a 1980-1986 ford bronco? How did you bench test the gauges?
I do know the wiring, the tach should be plug and play. I use a bench top power supply to test the gauges, so I know they are good before put into use.
So I got a gauge cluster out of a 1985 econoline van and everything is the same but the wiring in my 79 f150 wouldn’t work because the f150’s plug isn’t as wide as the econoline wiring pigtail
Sounds like you have a 4 gauges vs. 2 gauges/2warning lights mismatch. If you get ahold of me at BJ's Classic Clusters on Facebook, I can hook you up with the cluster you need. I'll even take the Econoline cluster as partial trade.
Too bad I could use that one you couldn't use, exactly what I'm looking for.....hahaha
I probably have one on hand. At this point I have dozens of clusters!
My father in law has a 1977, we took out a cluster from the 1978 model and unfortunately it has the actual gauge not the light style that he needs, can't find anything in Canada 🤷♂️
@@wynnedel8097 I am willing to ship to Canada. Get ahold of me at BJ's Classic Clusters on bookface.
Love the video. Where did you get the bulbs and what product number are they?
They are simply 194 LED bulbs, they can be found almost anywhere!
@@bjsclassicclusters found it thank you for responding 👍
note manual says ft/lbs you said inch lbs quite a difference 5:16
I have a 1981 bronco with factory tach looks like the wiring is correct do you have a video that shows bench testing a tachometer? Or know where I can send mine out for rebuilding?
Hey TJ, unfortunately bench testing a tachometer requires a signal generator or oscillator of some sort. The best way to test a tach before installation is to hook it up directly to the battery/ground/distributor under the hood using a few jumpers with alligator clips.
Please do not hesitate to reach out on my FB business account for more/further info!
I have a '78 F250 and had the cluster out for dead lights. I tried swapping to LED but in the process noticed several burned areas on the printed circuit. Have you ever seen that, and any idea what can cause that? I'm unclear if it's a printed circuit problem or something elsewhere in the truck meaning a new printed circuit will also burn. I also have a turn signal that comes on steady with headlights on so I was thrilled to see your comment on the turn signal socket replacement under another comment! I'll check that out.
Hey Rob! I've definitely seen burnt circuits on the printed circuits, and 95% of the time it's always on the ALT circuit. As far as a cause goes, I'm not sure why that is. The ALT circuit is the only one that sees a constant 12 volts. Maybe if the alternator overcharges, its too much for the printed circuit? I'm not sure. But I do have extras and spares if you're in need of one. Just let me know and best of luck! I'm glad you found the video helpful! Check my page out on FB @BJ'sClassicClusters!
Love the work man. Your attention to detail is what makes your work stand out above the rest!!!
Headliner install 1977 Ford F-150 custom
Is that something you want a video of?
Thank you
You’re welcome!
Hey I just discovered your video and I love it. I also just got a 75 f100 (custom) and discovered that when you activate the high beam lights, both headlights turn off. When you go back to low beams, they come back on. Any idea what it could be.
Your high beam switch just needs replaced. Mine did same thing and once I replaced the foot switch they worked
That sensor/switch above the shift linkages is the reverse light switch.
Which explains why my reverse light is now a toggle switch on the dash, since someone converted it to a floor shift!
Thanks boss. Great detail!
Thank you!!
Hi very nice video!!! I need a circuit board like yours for a 1986 e-150, from the video I believe it looks like the one I have! Do you know if your circuit board would fit mine? The part number of mine is D6TF-10C956 Also do you know who else might have a BRAND NEW circuit board? I called Dennis carpenter and green sales, also jegs might have it
I’m sure I have a circuit board laying around that would work for you. They’re also available on eBay brand new at: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=psquare&store_cat=0&store_name=psquaresstuff&_oac=1&_nkw=73%20ford%20led%20truck I’ve actually started rebuilding these clusters as a side job. You can check out my page at: www.Facebook.com/BJsClassicClusters
Thanks for the instructions. I'm trying to replace the rag joint on my 1971 f-100.
No problem! How did it go??
I paid $48.00 thanks to Bidenflation
Bj i have searched and am having a bear of a time finding a newer replacement for my dummy light cluster. I had pulled it to check the lights and now well my gas gauge no loner works, my temp gauge has a loose nut so no lights there and it's missing a couple of the bulb holders lol. it's a 1979 F-100 Ranger.
I have a ton of parts and spare clusters. Get ahold of me at hdman90@yahoo.com we can figure out what all you need and get you back up and running.
Awesome video by far one of the best ive senn for this stuff.. I am going through something pretty similar. All new wiring harness because the guy before me melted everything. Anyways. I didnt even know my cluster was to a econoline. Anyways, the one I bought is allegedly all good. Anyway i could see your cluster harness pinout? Because ive tried all of the different ones with little success.
Oisin! Thanks for the compliment! I am just now seeing this comment, so sorry for the 7 day late response. What year is your truck?
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the compliment! I hope it helped!
Great informative, thorough video. Bought a 73 a couple weeks back and only the speedometer works. Ordered a circuit board as I could see damage on it. Going to test my gauges tomorrow using your method. New gauges are pricy, might have to find some used if they don't work.
Question, is it a straight swap to LEDs?
Awesome! I'm glad you found so much valuable information from this video! If you end up needing a gauge by chance, look me up on the Dent Nation group on FB! Best of luck!
@@bjsclassicclusters appreciate that. Thankfully all of the gauges seem to be good. Hopefully it's just the circuit board and not a bigger issue.
@@pnw.bronco you're on your way!