How to replace Chevy Colorado purge valve solenoid (2141680) (214-1680)
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- Опубликовано: 20 мар 2020
- Truck is giving an intermittent P0442 "evap small leak" diagnostic trouble code. Spoke with another mechanic who helped isolate it to the vapor canister purge valve solenoid located on the driver's side of engine underneath the intake. This is the only component of the evap system not located in the back near the fuel tank / spare tire area.
Symptoms include rough running and an occasional misfire due to exhaust gasses entering the combustion chamber at the incorrect time. P0442 and P0304.
Disregard the part in the video about the bracket. RockAuto sent me the wrong part!
Video recorded 3/20/2020. Let's hope this fixes my problem! :-) 
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If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here:
ruclips.net/p/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y
My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
I liked and subbed
My father in laws 2005 Colorado had this issue for 12 years he could not figure out why the truck would not always start at random. After putting fuel in at the pump he had to wait 15 minutes for the vapors to clear (at the time he did not know that) check engine light was on for 13 years though he did not drive it more than 5,000 a year emission test was not needed the mechanic never took the time to find out why the light was on, now that have the truck since April 2022 I’m repairing/replacing what needs to be done for my son in college, thanks for showing the location of the part. CompTechMike.
Hi there! You're welcome! Glad to help. It sounds like you're doing all the right things already. If that check engine light is still on I'd start by pulling all the codes and working my way through each of those. Sometimes one bad component can cause multiple / cascading failures. Safe travels, hope you and your son make many happy memories in the truck! 😊
Mike, excellent video! That purge valve is a tough one to find but you did a great job showing its location. Most importantly, you took the time to show exactly how the hose connections came off, where other people just breezed over that- likely because they broke the fittings. That left hand fitting is very different from most other ones, but you showed how it operates which is why this was so helpful for removing it properly. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much! 😊👍👍
My 2004 Colorado just broke 220k miles and it’s throwing a evap code, replaced all of the tubing and gas cap, just replaced this and it went away! Thanks for the informational video boss!
Fantastic! Glad to help. Thank you! 😊
i changed mine and it was easy, just removed the battery and i removed the whole asembly from the green litle cap up ,the most dificult was removing the screw, i asembled it out of the truck and i put it back the same way i took it out,
That's a different way of doing it! Definitely sounds interesting, I'll have to check it out next time I have my battery out. Thanks for the tip! 😃👍👍
Thank you I did it on the same way and it was easy
What size engine was
3.7l I5
My 07 Colorado was a pain to get to not nearly as much room to work as this one my advice is be very patient. Don’t break the plastic lines. Take your time to get the clips wiggle it out. Or get both plastic lines just replace them because they will be brittle.
It sounds like you probably have the coil springs instead of torsion bar suspension. Yes, those are much harder to reach! One tip I've heard is removing the battery and tray can help you reach down to it from above. Agreed about the plastic lines and clips. Fortunately the front line (the one going to the throttle body) is short, and easily replaced if it does break. Think I covered that in another video. Sounds like you got it though! ☺
Great video, Mike! My 07' Colorado needed that valve for the last 3 years, and your video made it much easier. Hope your truck is still on the road, and you keep the repair videos coming!
Thank you so much! I love these trucks and am glad to help keep them on the road by sharing videos. I'm actually responding to your comment from out in the garage, now. Doing my fall maintenance before the weather turns too cold. Just about to hit 236,000 miles on her. With the price of new trucks these days I'm hoping she makes it a little bit longer! 🤣
Great video! Only thing I have to say is anyone that has to change the purge valve in the future, you do not need to pull the tire off, just pull that plastic cover off it’s held in by 6 or 7 plastic clips and you’ll have straight access to it! Thanks again
Thanks! If you're able to get in there without pulling the tire off, you definitely have either smaller hands, or better dexterity than I do, LOL. 😆
@@CompTechMike yeah that’s probably it lol I’m a mechanic at a shop
Only with stock tires, but who likes those thing!? lol.
@@smallenginerepair7921 Maybe if it was up on a lift and the tires were hanging down
Just did mine, 2007 Colorado, pain in the ass but your video helped. Hardest part was putting the bolt back in.
You're welcome! Glad this old video is still helping people. 😊
Was yours a 2.9 by chance?
@@gallaecia14hi! Mine is a 3.7.
@@gallaecia14 yes 2.9
Tremendously helpful video, Mike! I never would have figured out how to disconnect that left/front hose without it. Saved me gobs of time and money going to a shop. I got it all done in less than 30 minutes. The only thing missing is advice on buying some of those little plastic clips or rivets that hold the rubber mud guard on the inside of the fender to protect the engine. They were brittle and all broke, as I expect they usually do. I'll get some tomorrow and finish the job.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful. I agree about the little plastic rivet clips. I've got a bucket with a bunch of those in different sizes. Was underneath my truck the other day and found them missing all over the place, LOL. 😄
Thank you so much! I was able to locate this and replace it using your video! Appreciate the tip on how to remove that left hose clamp (she is a tough son of a you know), got the job done in just a few minutes thanks to you!
Fantastic! Glad the video was helpful. :-)
Thanks, very helpful. Provided a better understaning on the size and complexity of the task. Thanks
Awesome! Glad to help. 👍👍
awesome video! even one handed. easy to understand and helped a ton 10/10
Awesome! Glad to help. 🙂
Mike A very informative video like always. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. Much appreciated
Hi Mike. Thank you very much for yhe info and the link that you sent.
My son had a '05 Colorado and he changed the purge valve solenoid and the vent valve solenoid today. The truck had a little bit a hard time getting started but he finally got it going. The only thing now that's a worry on his truck is that the frame is cracked. The dealership sold it to him like that without disclosing the information that the truck had been in accident. Trying to find another frame for it. Thanks again for the great info.!
Wow! Glad to hear you got the parts replaced. Good luck with the frame issue!
Disregard the part in the video about the bracket. RockAuto sent me the wrong part! :'(
Thanks for the video. I just did mine. I'd broke that hose connection on the left if you hadn't showed that it was spring loaded. Seemed to help the idle smooth out. Thx again
Awesome! Glad the video was helpful. 😃
What if you do brake the connector 🤔?
@@sabinovazquez2235 That would suck. Hope you are asking hypothetically!?? In most cases if you break the connector you need to find a way to replace it. Either by tracing the line back and replacing the entire line, figuring out some way of reattaching it... or duct tape, I suppose! LOL! But, good luck!
Thanks for video always looking for Colorado video always in repair
Thanks! Hope my videos are helpful to you. :-)
Very good video, made my life much easier.
Thanks! Glad to help. 😊
THANK YOU SO MUCH ....MIKE AWESOME VIDEO WITH ALOT KNOWLINGING HOW TO FIX.....THANK VERY MUCH..
Awesome! You're welcome. Glad to help. 😊👍👍
Great vid as always. All your Colorado vids have helped me. Get a go pro when/if u can though. That would be awesome.
Thanks! I definitely would like a better camera someday. :-)
Excellent job. We'll explained. Thanks
Thanks! Glad to help. 😊
So far one of the worst parts to replace. Thanks for your vid.
You're welcome! Wait till you have to do the rear brakes. Those are the worst parts I've ever had to do on this model truck. Even worse than the water pump. 😫😭
@@CompTechMike I've done rear brakes on these trucks and it's not hard just gotta no how to do it
Alternator was my least favorite, and bottom bolts on intake are fun too.
whew you have waaay more room than my 2011 chevy colorado has lol, thanks for the vid lov
LOL! Is yours a Z85 (coil spring suspension)? Those are definitely tight to work around. Mine is the Z71 (torsion bars underneath instead of coil springs). Good luck! 😊
@@CompTechMike yes xD I had to remove the battery and alternator to have enough room from the top, but I got it done today :D
@@KellyKatz Sweet! How was it taking the alternator out? Mine has 217k miles and I still haven't had to replace it, but I've heard it's pretty challenging to remove. How long did it take you?
@@CompTechMike i couldn't get it to come out completely, but it would move enough to give the room I needed. I think it took about 2 hours
This was very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
Thanks for the vid I was able to get to mine without having to take the tire off I just jacked it up
Awesome! You must have some nimble hands. Great job! 👍👍
I kinda did the same thing you did a small piece of the white clip on the left side that you had to push up broke but everything snapped back in place would putting permadex around that value be worth it or should I not worry it about it?
@@nicka2815 Hi! Thanks for the comment. I used Permatex on mine at first, but later I went back and replaced the hose. I would not recommend the Permatex, it was really hard to scrape off when I went back to replace the hose properly. The hose is only about 16" long and runs up to the front of the throttle body. It can be a bit tricky to get it through the narrow space behind the alternator, but if you have time, I'd recommend getting the hose. I have a separate (more recent) video where I show part of the process of doing this.
@@nicka2815 here's a link to the video that shows more about that hose. Hopefully it will help you! 😊
ruclips.net/video/SjLIMM30tyA/видео.html
Let's just hope I don't have to change that for awhile lol
Also, the charcoal canister has a trap door, I open it and blow the rock dust out every oil change
Good tip!
Really helped me out today! thanks for this video definitely a lot of curse words used today lol
LOL! I understand completely. 🤣 Glad to help!
Thanks for the help!
You're welcome! 😊
Love the videos. They help a lot. Have you done starter yet
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Glad the videos are helpful. Haven't done one on the starter yet, since I haven't had to replace it yet. Truck has over 209,000 miles, pretty glad about that - I've heard it's really challenging to do! Will be sure to video it if/when I do have to replace it. 😀
thank you Mike bless from Zac mexico
You're welcome! 😀
Thanks for making this video 👍🏽👍🏽
You're welcome! 😊
great video bro! Thanks!!
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
Hey, do you know what the wire on the top right is called that connects to the part? Mine is missing that wire and I don’t know where it is supposed to connect/lead to.
Hi! Vapor canister purge valve solenoid wire, maybe?
I couldn't find it on RockAuto, but check this out: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-19257603-Equipment-Evaporative-Emissions/dp/B0055B121U
You'd need to match it to your particular vehicle, but that link may be helpful. Also check out the "Frequently bought together" and "Customers who bought this item also bought" sections. That may help point you in the right direction.
Also looking on eBay, I see people selling entire kits. Do a google search for "2007 colorado emissions system" and click on the first link that comes up. It should be an eBay link for "Emission systems for 2007 Chevrolet Colorado for sale". Obviously you'd need to match it to your particular vehicle, but I see a lot of complete systems for sale on there. Good luck!
Awesome video! What size tires are those if you don’t mind me asking?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Glad the video was helpful. The tires are BFG AT KO2's, 31x10.5x15. They fit on the factory rims with no adjustments to vehicle height (on a Z71) necessary. I've had them for around 10 years (a couple sets, obv.). They ride great, only issue I've noticed is some cracking. They'll crack before the tread wears out. Definitely recommend.
So I have a leak from the top of the tank. The issue wasn't the pump assembly it's the vent gasket/ silicone holding that plastic vent in. Noticed the leak when topping off the gas. Doing research but haven't found the part(s). Thinking I may have to order a new tank since the silicone I applied isn't holding the pressure in the tank.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I know I've got a leak at the top of my tank, as well. Did you remove your tank to inspect this area? How difficult was it to drop the tank?
Thanks, what is happening, ?? & other work?imhave 2007;Canyon/ 4 CYL
In this video, the mechanic says that you need to drive 250 miles for the system to clear the code. In the 2007 Chevrolet factory shop manual it says that the system needs 17 hours to elapse for the first of 3 drive cycles, regardless of how many miles the vehicle is driven. This means that you could drive the vehicle 5 miles or less, wait 17 hours, then drive another 5 miles , shut the engine off, then drive another 5 miles in order to complete 3 drive cycles ( during the drive cycles the system is running a series of self diagnostic tests and if everything checks out , you can erase the code ) . Figure gasoline costs about $ 4.00 a gallon, at about 25 miles per gallon or $ 50.00 worth of gasoline you don't need to spend and waste your time and money driving 250 miles.
Thanks! This video is quite a few years old. Don't think we had access to a factory service manual at the time; probably just going by what other people had told us online. At the time my daily commute was over 100 miles, so driving distance wasn't even a consideration. 🤷😉
@@CompTechMike about 4 years ago I purchased a used 2007 Colorado WT with 2.9 engine at a utility company auction for $ 5500.00 with 52,000 miles , i then purchased a 3 volume set of the factory shop manuals for about $ 275.00 . This has not only saved me money on repairs but has given me a better understanding of how all of the vehicle control systems operate.
I'll give it a try! 2011 colorado only holding about 1/2 it's tank of fuel (shows full but runs down fast). Also, every fuel up it hesitates to start. Replaced gas cap with no luck, will try this and report the outcome, thanks!
Hi Timothy! Good luck! For the issue you're describing I would also look at the vapor canister vent valve (on the back near the spare tire). I have a video for that here:
ruclips.net/video/00Z78tE9938/видео.html
Also might want to inspect that the fuel tank itself is not physically damaged, and that there is no damage or obstruction to the hoses. Have you measured how much fuel you're able to get in the tank? Does it start spilling out if you add too much? What sort of mileage are you getting? Good luck, let us know how it goes!
Yeah man keep it up deffinatly helpful
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
Thank you , great help ...
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
I have a 2007 and mine is higher up, to the right, and behind all those hoses 🥴. How the heck and I supposed to reach this thing
Update: I got it. Entire repair took about 1.5 hours
@@EngineeringHooksets great work!
Mike what size are the hoses that fit in to the purge valve?
Hi! Thanks for your comment. I'm afraid I don't know the diameter of the hoses to the purge valve. These are pretty specific and have unique connectors, so I don't think an ordinary hose would fit. You might have some luck finding them on RockAuto, however.
I was pretty surprised, I just went to their website and put in "2007 chevy colorado vapor canister hose" and a few different hoses came up. So if you're missing your original hose or your original one has become broken, maybe they'll have the right one for your specific truck? Good luck!
www.rockauto.com/
Also this diagram might be helpful to you. Again, you're going to want to look up for your specific vehicle but this site seems to have some pretty good diagrams:
www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=396035&ukey_product=2787260#003
What’s the part number to your air filter housing? I been trying to find one for my truck but most have a different design and don’t fit but yours looks similar to my 2007 gmc 2.9L the air sensors is on top of the duct I think it’s the same design.
Hi! Thanks for checking out my video. When you say "air filter housing" do you mean the physical box that holds the air filter on itself? Afraid I don't have a part number on that, but I do see several available on eBay. Have you tried searching there for the correct part for your vehicle? There are also several aftermarket manufacturers that make replacements. Last suggestion would be to try a local junkyard.
For reference, the "sensor on the top of the duct" is the MAF sensor. Hope this info helps. Good luck!
How often do you change the evap? I've had to change mine like 4 times now. I had to watch your video to refresh my memory on how to swap em out.
Ha! Sometimes I have to re-watch my own videos, as well. Especially for stuff on the wife's Toyota. 🤷🤣 Have only needed to replace it once though. Four times seems excessive! Not sure what to say, maybe try a different brand? What symptoms are you getting when it fails each time?
@@CompTechMike haha yea. Well I forgot to mention that this time around my throttle body sensor goes nuts and I get reduced engine power and it sputters pretty bad so I pull over and disconnect the throttle body I guess to reset it and it goes away but it will come back sometimes hours sometimes less. I've already cleaned the throttle body bc it needed it but I think the evap could be causing it to set it off. To be honest I haven't had time to change the evap in months and about 2 weeks ago I started to get reduced engine power. I'll let you know what happens after I replace the evap. 🤞I hope the engine light goes off and I have my truck back to normal.
@@donsal.t.1765 Good luck! Sounds like you've got some work to do. 🤣
@@CompTechMike ya I think I'm going to buy a new throttle body.. I don't know why but it did it again after 20 miles of driving. I was able to pull over and erase the code with the computer thing you hook up to read codes.
@@donsal.t.1765 What is the exact code you're getting?
Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
Hey can u tell me where the wire plug goes to on this truck mine is broken and not seeing where it goes
Hi! Thanks for the comment. The wiring connection on the purge valve solenoid goes back towards the firewall and then up, and then from there I'm afraid I don't know (not without tearing it apart on my own truck, I suppose 🤣). I'd start looking in that direction. It may help to remove the battery, wheel, and the inner fender liner to get better visibility down into that area. I'd also check on forums like coloradofans and 355nation in case anyone has posted a wiring diagram. Good luck! If you're able to figure it out come back and let us know. 😊
@@CompTechMike I was replacing the same thing you did and when I first looked in there I tho it was cut but as I disconnected the intake hose and pulled it up I seen it was in fact still connected lol only hard part I had was dropping that screw in the engine mount had to get a strong magnet 🧲 and fish it out but as soon as I stared it check engine light was gone thanks for the video
Question! Out of no where started having starting issues. It fires up after like 5-7cranks and runs perfectly fine or sometimes literally fires up right away. Went a week straight last week with no issues now all a sudden back to the same issue. It’s a hit and miss at this point and I’ve ran through everything I can think of causing this issues and it all checks out good. Plugs/fuel pump not even a month old. Cleaned all my sensors, replaced what needed replaced. Any ideas? It’s getting very annoying and will make it difficult to sell if I decide to do so after giving up on finding the issue. Only thing I haven’t checked so far is plug wires and injectors. But everything else is good. Any help?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Are you getting any codes? Or is it just that sometimes it starts right away, and other times it's like "crank-crank-crank-crank-crank" before it starts?
Off-hand I would suspect a cam or crank positioning sensor, but that's just a gut feeling. These trucks don't have plug wires, and typically a bad coil would set a code. I assume you've cleaned throttle body and ran a fuel system cleaner already?
Slim possibility, but maybe a bad or missing teeth on the starter or flywheel? Think that would make other noises though...
@@CompTechMike no codes just sometimes cranks and sometimes fires right up. Crank sensor is new unless faulty? Yes sir ran cleaner and cleaned throttle body. May need to double check the new crank sensor.
@@CompTechMike no noises or anything on start up either…
@@bbruhn112 So that I understand correctly, you're saying sometimes you go out and turn the key and absolutely nothing happens at all? No crank, no click, no lights on the dashboard? If you turn on the headlights and turn the key, do the lights dim? How old is the battery? Have you had it tested? Inspected cables? Maybe the ignition cylinder is starting to fail.
@@CompTechMike no sir, every time it cranks. Either starts right up or cranks 3-5 times before starting. Checked battery yesterday and it’s good. Just put new connections for the battery as well. But today it threw the code for the crank sensor so maybe that one is faulty. Going to try and replace that tomorrow! I will also look into ignition cylinder as well. Also thank you so much for all the help and getting back with me. I really appreciate it. This has been going on for a couple weeks and with going to college at the moment it has been very frustrating and I hope it doesn’t take a crap on me as it’s my only vehicle at the moment to get back and forth to school!
I've been getting a po466 code and its saying to change the same thing (solenoid)
Hi! Hope my video is helpful. Let us know if changing this part fixes your problem!
I’m getting a P0455
Is there a video of how to reset engine light after replacing the valve ??? Thanks
Hi Alma! To clear a check engine light, the easiest way is to erase the code using a code scanner. Any basic scanner should be able to do this (as well as many other useful functions). You can find them at any auto parts stores, Amazon, etc., starting at around $40. Alternatively you can disconnect the battery overnight - that should clear the code, as well. But my recommendation is to get a scanner! 😊
how many miles did the original last you? before it STB
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I don't recall exactly but believe my truck had around 205,000 miles when I recorded this video.
Note that replacing this part did not resolve all my issues. I still get the P0442 "evap small leak". In my case that now appears to be coming from the gasket at the top of the fuel tank, where the fuel pump plugs in. Due to the difficulty of replacing that gasket (you either need to lift the bed or drop the tank) I've just been carrying a pocket code scanner and resetting the CEL when it comes on (every couple hundred miles). I'll get around to it one of these days, lol. 🤣
Hardest part was the tearing the plastic the parts were in
Lol! 🤣
Did u get fixed the problem with P0442??
Hi! I did, actually. I replaced just about every component in the evap system and even had a smoke test, ultimately what it turned out to be was the gasket at the top of the fuel tank where the pump fits in. After 224,000 miles it had rusted clean through. I looked at how hard this was to change and there's two main ways - either you drop the tank or you call six of your closest buddies and lift off the bed.
I've dropped a few tanks in the past but they were on older and easier to work on vehicles, so I just lived with it and would reset the light every couple hundred miles when it came on. But I finally got around to paying a local garage to do it a couple weeks ago. $400 labor (which didn't seem unreasonable considering everything is expensive in Northern Virginia) and $600 for the pump and gasket. Oof. It'd better be AC Delco original. 🤣 But that solved the P0442.
Changed this but P04442 is still showing up. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I assume you mean "P0442", correct? Dumb question but if you clear the code with your code scanner after replacing the part, how long does it take to come back?
Also, here's a "troubleshooting flowchart" for various types of evap leaks:
----------
Troubleshooting flowchart for evap issues:
1 - Replace the gas cap
2 - If you still get the code, replace vapor canister purge valve above spare tire. Inspect hoses and replace as necessary
3 - If you still get the code, replace purge valve solenoid on driver's side of engine below intake. Easiest way is through driver's side wheel well, or remove battery. Inspect and replace hoses as necessary (including hose between valve and throttle body)
4 - If you still get the code, inspect lock ring around fuel pump at top of tank. This is a poor design and lock ring frequently rusts out, causing evap leaks and smell of gasoline
5 - Check for loose intake manifold bolts or leaking/damaged hoses around the intake and PCV system
6 - If you still get the code, a smoke test may help
Alternatively, don't beat around the bush and start with the smoke test. If that is inconclusive you may also have electrical issues.
----------
Hope this helps! I'd recommend the smoke test to help pinpoint the leak if replacing parts doesn't work. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks for the prompt reply!
I already replaced the gas cap, and as mentioned just replaced the canister purge valve. I just cleared the code with my scanner so we shall see if it shows up again.
Though I do have a smoke machine. Where should I blow the smoke thru?
@@Dexxtrr hi! A couple of common locations for running a smoke test include feeding into the vacuum line going to the power brake booster, and also if you have the second "fuel line" with the green cap next to the intake manifold. I wasn't sure what that was at first but apparently it's a good spot to do a smoke test.
This reminds me, another place that can have a vacuum leak is the diaphragm inside the power brake booster. It's uncommon, but possible. Might not hurt to run a few tests on that, as well, to check if it's holding vacuum (or a possible source of leaks). Good luck!
@@Dexxtrr hi! Sorry for the delay. I typically recommend various ports on the intake or around the resonator, or through the vacuum hose going to the brake booster. You can also drill and add a small hose fitting if you don't have one, already (and just cap it off when not using it). Good luck, hope you got it by now. 😅
Will this help fix code P0496 . All I'm finding in the 0496 code is the purge valve . Hoping this fixes the code
Hi! Thanks for checking out my video. Yes, the purge valve can be one cause of this code. It's a cheap part and relatively easy to replace (harder if you have coil springs), may be worth a shot. There's many sources of evap issues on these trucks. I usually follow the following "flowchart" when trying to track them down. Hope this helps. Good luck!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Troubleshooting flowchart for evap issues
1 - Replace the gas cap
2 - If you still get the code, replace vapor canister purge valve above spare tire. Inspect hoses and replace as necessary
3 - If you still get the code, replace purge valve solenoid on driver's side of engine below intake. Easiest way is through driver's side wheel well, or remove battery. Inspect and replace hoses as necessary (including hose between valve and throttle body)
4 - If you still get the code, inspect lock ring around fuel pump at top of tank. This is a poor design and lock ring frequently rusts out, causing evap leaks and smell of gasoline
5 - Check for loose intake manifold bolts or leaking/damaged hoses around the intake and PCV system
6 - If you still get the code, a smoke test may help
Google. There are RUclips videos showing how to replace all of these components.
Alternatively, don't beat around the bush and start with the smoke test. If that is inconclusive you may also have electrical issues.
@@CompTechMike thanks , you have been so much help . Iv watched several other videos and ur just my go to guy
@@CompTechMike took me a bit to get a free day but replaced it by taking battery out and realized previous owner took the 10mm bolt out of the valve Solonoid . So just have idk tried fixing it and couldn't but I replaced it today and code went away after erasing it. Truck wouldn't let me erase it last time so it erased this time and drive about 65 miles today and it hasn't popped back on . Thanks for all you have done
@@shipmastershadowofintent5249 nice! Good to hear. Safe travels! 😊
I have the 2.9 4cyl. Definitely not as much room to work, even with the battery out on the top side
Sounds like you probably also have the coil spring suspension instead of the torsion bars ("Z71") like mine. Good luck, skim through the other comments here; some other people have commented they successfully got it with the same config you have, hopefully their tips help!
My 04 Chevy Colorado had nowhere near the amount of working space as yours. I'll may have to take mines to a mechanic and let them deal with it.
Hi Shawn! Thanks for checking out my Chevy Colorado repair videos. It sounds like you have the coil spring suspension (mine in this video has the torsion bars). The different suspension packages really affect the amount of room you have to get at this part, as you've noticed.
With the coil springs I'd suggest try removing the battery, battery tray, and get at the part from above. Others have had success going this route. Check through the comments for a few other suggestions folks have left, as well. Good luck, let us know if you're able to get it! 🙂
@@CompTechMike | Sure. I will give it another go with that method this coming weekend and hope for some success.
@@CompTechMike Hello again!
I am likely lacking the experience here. Reaching the solenoid from above was actually a tougher case for me than by the driver side tire. The special push pins and hose by my battery terminal were especially frustrating to maneuver since it only looked like they were meant to stay attached. Your suggestion and the comments below helped, but think I'll call it quits. Thank you though!
@@shawncaradine6016 understandable! Yes, they are difficult to reach. It seems like the old case of "designed by engineers, not mechanics" when they put service items in such challenging-to-access locations. Best of luck to you if you give it another shot. Hopefully it won't cause you too many issues in the meantime. 🙂
Is for message gas-cap?
Hi! Yes, P0442 can be the error code for a loose or improperly fitting gas cap. If you get this code that is an easy fix to test first. Sometimes it's just as simple as rotating the cap a few times. Good luck!
So did this solve the issue?
Unfortunately it appears I have more troubleshooting to do. Still get the occasional P0442 "evap small leak". I've had the vehicle smoke tested and they couldn't find any leak. They did notice some wetness at the top of the fuel tank, so there may still be that gasket around the fuel pump that needs to be changed. It's tough to diagnose something that only happens every few hundred miles! ;-)
So I have a leak from the top of the tank. The issue wasn't the pump assembly it's the vent gasket/ silicone holding that plastic vent in. Noticed the leak when topping off the gas. Doing research but haven't found the part(s). Thinking I may have to order a new tank since the silicone I applied isn't holding the pressure in the tank.
@@frankboykin3940 just replaced my fuel pump after the top was leaking. the rubber gasget was bad. Needed to jack the bed up for removal. took hours but it came out with some swearing. I'm 1/2 way mechanical but this was a chore.
Tried this just right now but my entire Driver Side wheel hub is compressed almost all the way to the top of the inner wheel well. Anybody else had this problem?
Hi! I'm not entirely sure I understand your question. Did you remove the liner (held in with push-clips) shown at 2:55 in the video? Is your truck suspension modified (lifted or lowered)? Do you have Z71 suspension (torsion bars) or Z85 (coil springs)?
@@CompTechMike I removed the liner but its a stock RWD colorado. I was a little confused on where to place the jack because i was no where near able to even stick my hand in to even start disconnecting the solenoid.
@@anarcho-savagery2097 Have you jacked up the truck under the frame and removed the tire?
Also is it coil springs or torsion bar suspension?
Sounds like you just need to move your jack to one of the jack points behind the wheel area
@@thechosenpuppy574 yeah thats probably what i'll try next. Thanks guys.
How did you get red connector off?
I got it off thank you!
Hi! Thanks for watching & commenting on my video. The red connector is a standard plastic automotive electrical connector and can be disconnected by hand, by getting your fingers underneath and prying it loose while pulling on it. Clearance is a bit tight. The truck in this video has torsion bar suspension, if your truck has front coil springs instead it may be more challenging getting your hand in there. Loosening the bolt so you can wiggle the solenoid around may help.
Here's a couple images that may help:
imgur.com/a/jnxOANZ
(images hosted on Imgur)
Hope this helps!
Yes it was a bit more challenging with front coil springs but was able to get in there. Thank you so much!
After taking both hoses off and bracket it was easier to bring the purge valve closer to me. I’m short 5 foot 5 so I was able to fit both hands one on each side of coil spring and disconnect everything
@@ericsilva2904 nice! Glad to hear you got it. Some things are definitely easier when you have small hands. 😊
Man I do not have the clearance in my wheel well like your truck does I can't even see the Solenoid from the wheel well
Wow! What year is it? And engine size? Did you remove all the plastic from around the insides of the wheel well?
@@CompTechMike yes I did remove all of the plastic around the wheel well! I actually bent all the metal around it out of the way to get to it! It wasn't fun and it took more than one beer but it's done now!! Thank you for your video it helped me get through
@@CompTechMike I'm having the same issue, with no clearance. I have a 09 2.9L 2x4 .
Can see what it looks like here: imgur.com/a/FGraCrt
What is/was the one in the video?
@@zombieunicornasaurus Ah. That's unfortunate. Coil springs. You have a Z85 or other base model suspension. Mine is a Z71 - with the torsion bars.
Thanks to shear
Sorry? Not sure I understand your comment?
Is it the same for a 2005 Colorado?
HI Miguel! Thanks for asking. Good question. I don't have an '05 here to compare, but I looked up the part number on rockauto.com and it uses the exact same part as my '07, so assume the process should be identical, as well. Just remember if you have coil springs (instead of torsion bar suspension) it will be pretty tight getting your hand in there. Good luck, let us know how it goes for you!
04-12 should be the same as far as im aware.
@@thuff86 after a cursory search it does appear to be the same part for most first gen Colorado/Canyon trucks, but I always recommend using the search tools on a site like RockAuto.com to verify for your specific vehicle. Good luck!
How much did you pay ? Ive seen $16 something
Hi! I think they are around $20 right now on RockAuto website and on Amazon. You may be able to find one cheaper locally. Good luck!
👍
This is on the 5 cylinder model. It is not the same as the 2.9l 4 cylinder
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I do not have a 4 cylinder model to compare to. Tentatively I would assume so. If you're able to confirm please comment back, it may help others in the future. Thanks! 😊
@@CompTechMike Also curious as to this. Just pulled my fender liner off to not be able to see where I need to go, might be under the battery but higher up
@@sithknight7740 You have the 4 cylinder? Try removing the battery. Are you able to see it, then? Also do you have coil springs or torsion bars? You might try posting in one of the forums or Facebook groups. Am sure it's pretty "common knowledge" just I don't have any 4 cylinder vehicles to check. If you find it, please share a picture! 😊
@@CompTechMike Will do and I couldn't see it at all through the wheel well. I believe I have coil springs but I'm very amateur and not 100% sure about that. I had noticed my actual fender itself was larger than it appeared in the video, resulting in less visibility.
My truck has been starting rough since the light came on a couple weeks ago so I haven't driven it. I'm going to go snoop around on Facebook as well as look into the battery route.
@@sithknight7740 sounds good. Coil springs are usually pretty easy to identify - they look like big coils and take up a lot of space in the wheelwell area. Torsion bars are usually found on trucks with 4WD and are a bit easier to work around.
Since you mentioned having a check engine light I'd start with getting a basic code scanner. You can pick one up at most auto parts stores or online on sites like Amazon starting at around $40. Also most auto parts stores have one that you can borrow. Use that go read your codes and start googling. Some common issues include vacuum leaks around the PCV system and dirty throttle bodies. Plenty of videos on RUclips to troubleshoot those kinds of problems. Good luck!
I wish you could have explained the clips better with video of you releasing the clips.
Sorry, did you watch the whole video? I believe I did explain how the clips operate. It's pretty hard to hold a camera with one hand and replace parts with the other. If you watch some of my newer videos I've started using a tripod. Hope this helps!
@@CompTechMike is that front clip a horseshoe shape I have to replace one this weekend
@@jgrimes3284 Hi! It's sort of horseshoe shape? If you watch the video right after 7:00 minute mark you can see it a little better. Not sure how you would remove it to replace it, it's really tough to reach. Good luck!
Is that put pressure inside the gas tank vent valve
Hello! I'm afraid I don't understand your question. The EVAP system works to reduce emissions and fuel vapors. You might check out this link to learn more:
ferberstireandauto.com/how-does-the-evaporative-emission-system-evap-work/
Hope this helps!
easy if you take the bolt out first
My experience that doesn't really give a whole lot more "wiggle room" but maybe your lines have more slack. Whatever works for you. Thanks for the tip! 😊
@@CompTechMike evidently , it would come out a foot from the engine
@@jonesy4588 I don't see how your evap lines and wiring could possibly have that much slack, but if they do, sure sounds like it makes it easy. 😄
Those clips were a bi@@ch to remove, you gotta have some small hands to replace that thing. I did it 2 times same vehicle like 4 years apart
They are definitely more difficult than they need to be! Glad to hear you got yours. Some folks just give up and live with the check engine light, lol. 😊
Thanks!
Happy to help! 😊