TY for this video. Purchased a 2006 Canyon about 1 month ago used. It was showing the P0449 code. I bought the parts you recommended for less than 30 usd. Only issue I had was getting the vent hoses off. Worked on them for over an hour and decided to do it on the truck. The hole assembly hung down pretty good and I cut it off on the truck and then installed new one also. Thx for all the info to make this a fairly easy job and a lot more affordable. I reset the code and its running like a charm!
Two hours work saved me over $400 - yes, today's price at a local shop. I did not remove the spare. It was rusted on so tight I chose to use a lift and jack stands. I also added some high-temp electrical tape around the hose at the new solenoid for good measure. Thanks for the great and accurate video!
Huge help, Martin! Thank you so much for this tutorial. I'm a visual learner. Great advice on getting that hose off. It took a firm, but gentle effort.
Thanks Martin for taking the time to add every step along the way and not to mention how we all have saved $ because of your research into optionally parts!
Been having issues related to this for the last few weeks and my check engine light finally popped up with that repair code. You just saved me a lot of time this weekend man, thanks!
Martin, excellent video and thanks for the part numbers. I was researching them on ebay and actually was able to come up with AC Delco number 214-2147 which is just the solenoid with oval connector for less than $20.00. Just wanted to throw that out there if someone wanted to try and save some money. Thanks again for the video!!
Thank you so much for your terrific post and passing on your knowledge!! I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado 4-cyl 2.8L two-wheel drive with 224, 800 miles. It still runs perfectly. I first replaced my gas cap to see if that would remove the P0449 codes but it didn't, even after trying to erase them with my OBDII device. Then I found your video and your method worked perfectly for replacing the vapor canister vent solenoid. Yes, you are right, much easier to do this with spare tire removed. A couple of things: I tried to use hot water to loosen the hose and pry it off but that would not work--softens things up too much. Your crushing method worked great after the part cooled off. I took your advice and bought a new AC Delco H3 solenoid ($18.39 at Amazon) and, curiously, my OLD wiring plug fit perfectly into the NEW H3 solenoid socket. Go Figure!! So I returned the wiring adapter. The part numbers for that H3 solenoid that fit my old plug is AC Delco Part# 214-2149 and GM# 25932571. Someone might be able to try that part? Codes: I started the truck right after the repair, let it warm up for ten minutes and then I hooked up my OBDII device and was rather disappointed to still see code P0449 (a current and a pending) on the screen. However, I didn't despair, I drove the truck around town and upon return, shut it off, attached the OBDII, retrieved the codes, erased them and they have never come back. So, SUCCESS, thanks to you. Thank you so much again. Keep up the good work, sharing your knowledge and producing good video.
Thank you so much!! You saved me a bunch! Bought solenoid-only for $16 USD and adapter for $16 USD (both on Amazon), about 30 minutes of fairly easy work (after watching your fabulous video!) and done. Bought MS300 to clear codes for $15 USD (also Amazon) and it hasn't come back. Had a little bit of fun getting the vacuum tube on the new solenoid (which might be why they sell it already on there) but a little Vaseline fixed that. Might also help with the vacuum seal so no big deal. How can you beat $32 USD and 30m to save what sounds like a $300 to $500 potential cost? I am so happy!!!! Thank you again for your time and effort. This was terrific!
This was a HUGE help. Thank you for posting. Found the part on Amazon for $15. Two things from my install..... 1.) I have an '05 Canyon and didn't need the electrical harness. 2.) I didn't cut off near the hose. I just crushed it with a wrench and pulled out the pieces. Excellent video!
Thanks for this video, all these years later it still helped me. I have a 2005 Colorado with this same code. Bought the H3 solenoid off Amazon (don't recall the price but it was cheap, and a Delco part). My truck has rust under there too. I just bought it not long ago and in doing this I found out I have no spare tire so that bit took less time! Although now I have to shop for a spare. You don't need them often, but when you do...
Thanks! This video was very helpful. I got it done in under an hour (including interruptions). The part I bought from Amazon included the bracket, hose and jumper wire so I was able to skip a couple of steps but the video simplified the process. Definitely don't forget the safety glasses. I should have worn safety goggles as some dirt got by the glasses.
I'm null of knowledge on evap system, but you what your mastering tour and explanation make me feel confident to give a try with it. I really appreciate your effort en dedication to explain all details about this subject, for me it's all clear now, thanks so much!!!!
Just finished doing this replacement on 2008 Colorado with 5 cylinder engine. I bought the part (2M1062) from Rockauto and it had the correct connector (oval) for my truck, thus no adapter needed. Thanks Martin for helping me save money on this fix.
Thanks a lot for this video. we had the same problem on my father's 2010 canyon, and with your explanations it was easy to test, and repair this! thanks again!!!
I just had the same problem. I found your video very useful. After watchin I was able to fix the problem myself and save some money. So thank you for the video sir
Nice informative video. Was able to perform this task for $34 in parts and 45 minutes of time (mostly getting those tubes with the pressure release points off) after watching this video. Thanks.
Thanks Martin! What a great video for addressing this issue. I especially appreciated you safety comments, like wearing eye protection was extremely benefitial.
Thank you for this video I just bought a 07 Colorado just like yours and I have been racking my brain trying to get my truck to pass emission for a week now. I've changed gas cap that was almost $100 bucks which was a stupid crazy price at the dealership and the thermostat which was $91 bucks at the parts store again another stupid crazy price for one of those. Thank you for showing the part #'s to both the solenoid and the adapter I found both parts on amazon for $36.80 USA because I live in GA in one of the few counties where we have to have emissions. I didn't know this truck had a charcoal canister or the solenoid so again a big thanks for showing how easy it is to change the parts yourself.
Thanks man you are a genius, I temporarily “fixed” the problem and I got no more codes, I did it almost as you did it just that I used a small 12v bulb and it cheated the computer, I tried before the solenoid valve arrives and it worked thanks to your video, thanks again for your knowledge.
Great video. Thanks a million. Looked at it several times. Followed your process and parts to fix PO449 on my 2010 Canyon. $35 total for OEM solenoid and harness shipped from ebay. One thing that you did not mention is that the bracket is held in place by the center piece of the bracket that is located on both the canister and solenoid side of bracket. It is slightly bent down to keep the solenoid in place. I used a screwdriver to pry the center piece up and and the bracket came of easily with a little tap of hammer even though it was heavily rusted. After reinstalling the bracket the center piece gets pushed down again. I also added a small stainless steel worm clamp to the hold the hose on tightly.
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was very well done! Good idea to test the wiring and computer before putting everything together! Safety glasses! Genius. I REALLY appreciate how you learned about the H3 replacement parts and were good enough to share that information! A big deal. I'm Robert. I have a 2009 GMC Canyon that threw this alarm in December and my mechanic is dragging his feet on it, so here I am! Your tutorial has given me the confidence to do the repair myself. You rock!
Thank you for the video! Check engine light is off and this video could not of been better. I bought the part from autozone part number pv428. 30 bucks and truck is fixed.
thanks for the vid. it was really helpful. I checked the connector first then bought AC Delco #214-2149 from Amazon and it worked. it's for the normal "oval" style connector with the small v-notch. i did not need the adapter harness that many speak of. i have a 2005 crew cab 3.5L Xtreme.
Thank you so much for this step by step tutorial. I have the same truck with ironically enough the same mileage as yours, LOL! H3 hummer parts? who would have known? FY, the part you specified in this video is available in the US at O'Reilly's for $56.99 with the harness adapter. Autozone has the OEM part for the the Chevy Colorado for $34.99. Thank you again.
The parts arrived today, I soaked the vaccum tank mounting bolt (13 mm hex) with liquid wrench, I had trouble with one of the special hose fasteners coming loose, so I used a pair of welder's vice grips to hold the 2 white release tabs on the 90 degree hose connector, while I held tank in one hand and twisted the plastic hose with the other. Once I broke the male plastic tube connection (per video) on the old defective solenoid, I sprayed silicone on the new solenoid mail tube and slightly in the old 90 degree plastic line and kept pressing them together (for about 10 minutes) and twisting the hose, finally it seated up on the solenoid properly. Dealer wanted $335.00, took an hour laying in my driveway gravel AND the $28.00 for the solenoid and special wire connector. I had to drive vehicle for about a mile before the little engine shaped light when out. Thank for video! P.S. I didn't lower the spare tire, AND did get dirt in my face.
Thanks for making this video.. very informative.. I haven't run into this issue.. but I love my Colorado and if the issue ever comes up... now i'll know how to fix it :)
Ok, there seems to be quite a bit of confusion over what the EVAP system is for and how it works, so I'll try to give a simplified explanation. In the "good old days" (the 70s and before) automotive fuel systems were simple. You had a fuel tank that you filled through a filler tube that connected to the outside of your car via the gas cap. Attached to the fuel tank, a fuel pump forced gasoline or diesel through a narrow hose with a filter somewhere along its length into a small "cup" in your carburetor. The amount of fuel in the cup was controlled by a small float in the cup that cut off the fuel feed when the cup was full and allowed it to flow again when the level dropped. Air rushing into your engine through the throat of the carburetor sucked the fuel from the cup into the engine cylinders through something called a venturi, which atomized the fuel as it mixed with the air. Even with the fuel cap on, the fuel system was vented to the outside air (usually near the filler cap) to equalize the pressure so that you didn't starve your carburetor as the volume of fuel in the tank dropped, or the fuel volume varied with ambient temperature. This allowed your engine to get the fuel it needed, but it also allowed polluting hydrocarbons which evaporate from gasoline to escape into the atmosphere even when your car wasn't running, which is a "very bad thing".™ As engine control went electronic beginning in the 70s and the carburetor was replaced by fuel injectors, California, and later other jurisdictions, mandated that these evaporating hydrocarbons be captured and stored until they could be burned in the engine. The modern EVAP system was born to accomplish this. Several components were added to the old-style fuel systems. First, a canister full of charcoal beads was placed at the end of the vent tube that equalized the pressure in the fuel system. This charcoal captures and holds the escaping hydrocarbons, which are drawn back into the fuel system and burned when the engine is running. Air is allowed to flow in and out through the canister but hydrocarbons are captured before they escape to the open air. For this to work properly, the charcoal canister must be the ONLY opening from the fuel system to the outside world (when the gas cap is on). To allow the engine computer to test this two valves were added, controlled by solenoids. The vent valve/solenoid, as the name suggests, is inserted in the vent line between the charcoal canister and the outside air. The purge valve is mounted on the intake manifold and a hose on the other end of the valve is attached to the fuel system. Normally, the vent valve is fully open and the purge valve allows a small vacuum to suck the hydrocarbons back out of the canister and into the engine cylinders. This also allows the vent to equalize the pressure in the fuel system by drawing or releasing air through the charcoal canister to the outside air. Every so often the ECU tests the integrity of the EVAP system seal by tightly closing the vent valve and temporarily fully opening the purge valve. With the purge valve open to the intake manifold a significant vacuum is formed in the fuel system. The purge valve is then closed tightly and a sensor measures how long the vacuum in the EVAP system is maintained. This test is usually done a few minutes after the vehicle is started from completely cold (i.e. first thing in the morning). When the test is complete the vent valve is opened again and the purge valve returns to normal too. If the vacuum is maintained for some predetermined period then the EVAP system passes the test. If however the vacuum doesn't hold then there is a leak in the EVAP system and the ECU will turn on the Check Engine Light and stores a DTC code. If the leak is bad then a P0455 code is stored. If the leak is not so bad but the seal is still not tight enough, then a P0442 code is stored instead. Needless to say, if either solenoid or valve is defective then the EVAP test cannot complete correctly and may give erroneous results. Likewise, a defective vacuum sensor can cause the ECU to think there is a leak when there isn't (or vice-versa). If all the valves, solenoids, and sensors are working properly then there really is a leak somewhere if a DTC code is stored in the ECU. Unfortunately, a DTC code in the ECU rarely points to a single component, but instead give you an idea of were to start looking. Hopefully this explanation sheds some light on what the various EVAP DTC codes could mean.
Do you have a Crew Cab? Just wondering if the location is the same on a Crew Cab? I have an 04 thought I read the tank may need to be dropped on this truck if it is a CC. Thanks
@@Austin-bp8sr Yes, I had a crew cab Z71. In fact I just sold it this past weekend. Just get underneath and the cannister is right there. Only thing I found is the parts store said they didn't have the hummer replacement part so I had to buy the whole thing. Was super easy to do. Good luck
@@CM-ux9qq Thank you very much. I bought my 04 new and it is still in good shape. Only 125,000 on it. I would like to get a new one but waiting until the 'Chips' come in so the prices come down. Thanks again.
All I can say is "those bastids". Thanks for this vid, so glad I stumbled upon it. Otherwise I would have summarily gone into Autozone and paid $156.00 for this part and another $30.00 for the adapter. Incidentally my own subsequent research which I will mostly credit you for uncovered an ACDelco part# 214-2149. It's on Amazon for $13.60 and appears to have the oval connector eliminating the need for an adapter altogether. Pic could be incorrect, but I'm going to order it and see what comes. One more thing, your suggestion for removing the hose worked like a charm, but to replace it on the new part I'm going to dip it in some boiled water for a few seconds. Thanks mate, I salute you.
awesome video, repair made easy for less than $50 following these instructions to fix P0449 service check engine code. My valve had multiple cracks all over it, so It definitely was bad
Thanks for your idea. I did find an aftermarket complete valve/hose/harness for about $70 US. But found the valve and harness separately for $35 on Amazon. And they are both AC Delco parts.
Really, really great video. I picked the solenoid up on Amazon for $23 plus tax... What a difference!!The Hummer H2 works as well. The connector adapter is $8.99 plus tax on Amazon as well.I am sure in past 4-5 years price has come down from the time vid was shot.
Hi Martin just got mine today 112.00 everything include hose was already connect with the harness just take the old one off and put the new one on.Tks in a million to make us save money .It was deliver right at my door a happy man.to bad I cannot post the parts here would should it
I took my Colorado in for a "recall"notification fron G.M. on TPS, and it was not the problem, they charged me about $75.00 to tell me it was the vaccum canister solenoid. I found the 2 items you mentioned for $19.00 and $9.00 respectfully. So it would have been cheaper to let autozone help by scanning. THANKS!
@mingoyai... actually a defective solenoid probably wouldn't even be noticed without the engine code. This is an emissions control defect, not a performance one. I've seen some state that your fuel economy is slightly affected by a bad solenoid, but if so the effect is very small. Since doing this repair on my truck I have seen both the solenoid and wiring adapter available online as a set for under $40 so if you have the time it is probably worth doing. If you had to pay the full $200+ or $400 for dealer installation I would say ignore it because you won't notice any performance problems, but for $40 you might as well repair it, especially if you live somewhere like I do where you have to pass an emissions test every two years to renew your license sticker. Any emissions system error codes is an instant fail.
I just watched this and replaced the same thing on my wife's 2006 Hummer H3. Both part numbers were correct. The harness was available at my local ACDelco dealer. Both parts cost about $70 CAD total. The only difference was the large hose in your video (with the push button release) was different on the H3. Still managed to get it off though. I was expecting the 13mm bolt to be rusted solid . . . but it came out. Thanks again.
ordered the acdelco cilinoid off amazon for 17 dollars took me 20 min tops to change out didn't have to drop the spare didn't even Jack it up the hardest part was getting the hoses off the canister thank you for your video was alot of help
Yes, the spare tire doesn't block the canister and solenoid in any way. The only reason I suggest dropping it is because it makes it a lot easier to slide yourself under the truck without needing to raise it at all. If you don't mind using a jack (AND STAND!) or you are slim enough that the tire doesn't get in your way, then there is no need to remove it.
Very helpful. It is worth adding that you can now get a vent/solenoid at AutoZone. Ask for part PV485 and they will hand you an exact replica that fits exactly. It's a $24 part. Switch the hose as described in this video because that hose doesn't come with the part. If AutoZone looks up the Colorado they will find another part that is priced at $100. It comes with the $75 accessory hose if you're into wasting money.
Hi Martin man was I please went I saw your video and tks a million GM and other garage want 550.00 to change mine and went I saw you video .I went to ebay and got one with connector adaptor ,hose already in place and for the only sum of 112.00 .peoples like you make us happy .At the cost of today living man I wish I could pay you a beer lollll.Tks again now they come all in one peace
Glad the video was helpful to you. From your description it seems you bought the Canyon/Colorado part, not the Hummer one. As you found out that version is quite a lot more expensive, even from an Internet vendor. There are Web vendors selling the Hummer version and the adapter harness for less than $40 USD combined and if you follow my instructions that part will work just as well as the Canyon/Colorado one.
As an alternative, use a ACDelco 214-1091 for early 2000's pickups. Shape is different but will slide in the bracket just the same and uses the same oval connector.. Only difference for the install is after cutting the old solenoid, DO NOT crack the pipe. The valve won't protrude as far so the hose will come up short. Add 3-4" of 5/8" ID hose as an extension and done. Valve is in the $15-30 range. A Delco 25950499 for a trailblazer will work as well. And put the bracket on a flat surface and wack it w/ a hammer. It will shock the rust build-up loose and make reassembly much easier
Hey thanks for the insightful info. Do you think that perhaps some PB Blaster or WD 40 would help make the install of the bracket into the solenoid easier?
Thanks so much for posting this. Quick question for you. Where’d you get that test light? Seems like it’d be perfect for a lot of car electronics given the voltage.
I had the exact same problem. The OEM Chevy part was $146.00. I used your trick and ordered a 2007 Hummer part that was an exact replacement for $23.00. I didn't even need the adapter. So, you saved me $123.00. Its a simple fix. Thank you for the advice.
That's interesting. Are you saying your truck is a 2007 model? If so, that means that the harness was changed for the 2007 model year since my 2006 Colorado uses the old harness and I needed the adapter cable.
Yes, my truck is a 2007 and the 2007 Hummer part was the same plug. I used a real heat gun to get the vinyl tube off of the old solenoid. Heat worked for me. I didn't have to saw off and crush the plastic inside. Awesome tip ordering the Hummer part. It worked just as you said. A hundred and twenty three Thank you's!!
airkraftinc Thanks for the update. That means that if you have a 2005/2006 model you will need the adapter. Anything from 2007 onward and you should be able to do this repair without the adapter.
+airkraftinc Just want to comment for anyone reading airkraftinc's comment later on. I don't recommend using a heat gun to soften the hose since the temperatures they can reach are probably not safe around the fuel vapors that are released when the hose is disconnected. A hair dryer is probably fine, but real heat guns can get hot enough to set fire to wood or paper, so I wouldn't trust one around gasoline. Cheers.
Bonjour merci beaucoup vous m'avez beaucoup aidé pour le problèmes que je vais avec mon chevrolet silverado maintenant je pense que je vais pouvoir réparer encore une fois merci les vidéos sur sympa et en plus vous ai expliqué bien grand merci
Авто/Мото![FREE fix for p0446/p0449 [Chevy Colorado/ GMC Canyon Fuel System Issues]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/czvj2fkFzYQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![FREE fix for p0446/p0449 [Chevy Colorado/ GMC Canyon Fuel System Issues]](/img/tr.png)
TY for this video. Purchased a 2006 Canyon about 1 month ago used. It was showing the P0449 code. I bought the parts you recommended for less than 30 usd. Only issue I had was getting the vent hoses off. Worked on them for over an hour and decided to do it on the truck. The hole assembly hung down pretty good and I cut it off on the truck and then installed new one also. Thx for all the info to make this a fairly easy job and a lot more affordable. I reset the code and its running like a charm!
Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful.
Two hours work saved me over $400 - yes, today's price at a local shop. I did not remove the spare. It was rusted on so tight I chose to use a lift and jack stands. I also added some high-temp electrical tape around the hose at the new solenoid for good measure. Thanks for the great and accurate video!
I ordered the parts you showed. I appreciate the time and energy you put into this video. Thanks again
Huge help, Martin! Thank you so much for this tutorial. I'm a visual learner. Great advice on getting that hose off. It took a firm, but gentle effort.
Thanks Martin for taking the time to add every step along the way and not to mention how we all have saved $ because of your research into optionally parts!
Thank you for taking the time and effort to show the extra details of what to expect and how to deal with them. Great Job !!!
Clear, simple, and easy to follow. Man you made it so easy for me with this video! Thank you brother.
Excellent video, Martin! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Decided to add your channel to my favorite mechanic's channels!
Been having issues related to this for the last few weeks and my check engine light finally popped up with that repair code. You just saved me a lot of time this weekend man, thanks!
Awesome tutorial. Just finished my 08 Colorado, no problems thanks to you.
You da man!
Martin, excellent video and thanks for the part numbers. I was researching them on ebay and actually was able to come up with AC Delco number 214-2147 which is just the solenoid with oval connector for less than $20.00. Just wanted to throw that out there if someone wanted to try and save some money.
Thanks again for the video!!
Thank you so much for your terrific post and passing on your knowledge!! I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado 4-cyl 2.8L two-wheel drive with 224, 800 miles. It still runs perfectly. I first replaced my gas cap to see if that would remove the P0449 codes but it didn't, even after trying to erase them with my OBDII device. Then I found your video and your method worked perfectly for replacing the vapor canister vent solenoid. Yes, you are right, much easier to do this with spare tire removed.
A couple of things: I tried to use hot water to loosen the hose and pry it off but that would not work--softens things up too much. Your crushing method worked great after the part cooled off. I took your advice and bought a new AC Delco H3 solenoid ($18.39 at Amazon) and, curiously, my OLD wiring plug fit perfectly into the NEW H3 solenoid socket. Go Figure!! So I returned the wiring adapter. The part numbers for that H3 solenoid that fit my old plug is AC Delco Part# 214-2149 and GM# 25932571. Someone might be able to try that part?
Codes: I started the truck right after the repair, let it warm up for ten minutes and then I hooked up my OBDII device and was rather disappointed to still see code P0449 (a current and a pending) on the screen. However, I didn't despair, I drove the truck around town and upon return, shut it off, attached the OBDII, retrieved the codes, erased them and they have never come back.
So, SUCCESS, thanks to you. Thank you so much again. Keep up the good work, sharing your knowledge and producing good video.
Thank you so much!! You saved me a bunch!
Bought solenoid-only for $16 USD and adapter for $16 USD (both on Amazon), about 30 minutes of fairly easy work (after watching your fabulous video!) and done. Bought MS300 to clear codes for $15 USD (also Amazon) and it hasn't come back.
Had a little bit of fun getting the vacuum tube on the new solenoid (which might be why they sell it already on there) but a little Vaseline fixed that. Might also help with the vacuum seal so no big deal.
How can you beat $32 USD and 30m to save what sounds like a $300 to $500 potential cost? I am so happy!!!!
Thank you again for your time and effort. This was terrific!
This was a HUGE help. Thank you for posting. Found the part on Amazon for $15. Two things from my install..... 1.) I have an '05 Canyon and didn't need the electrical harness. 2.) I didn't cut off near the hose. I just crushed it with a wrench and pulled out the pieces. Excellent video!
Thanks for this video, all these years later it still helped me. I have a 2005 Colorado with this same code. Bought the H3 solenoid off Amazon (don't recall the price but it was cheap, and a Delco part). My truck has rust under there too. I just bought it not long ago and in doing this I found out I have no spare tire so that bit took less time! Although now I have to shop for a spare. You don't need them often, but when you do...
Thanks! This video was very helpful. I got it done in under an hour (including interruptions). The part I bought from Amazon included the bracket, hose and jumper wire so I was able to skip a couple of steps but the video simplified the process. Definitely don't forget the safety glasses. I should have worn safety goggles as some dirt got by the glasses.
I'm null of knowledge on evap system, but you what your mastering tour and explanation make me feel confident to give a try with it. I really appreciate your effort en dedication to explain all details about this subject, for me it's all clear now, thanks so much!!!!
This video was spot on! I did not take my spare down but this was still easy to do following his directions!
Just finished doing this replacement on 2008 Colorado with 5 cylinder engine. I bought the part (2M1062) from Rockauto and it had the correct connector (oval) for my truck, thus no adapter needed. Thanks Martin for helping me save money on this fix.
Thanks a lot for this video. we had the same problem on my father's 2010 canyon, and with your explanations it was easy to test, and repair this! thanks again!!!
I just had the same problem. I found your video very useful. After watchin I was able to fix the problem myself and save some money. So thank you for the video sir
Nice informative video. Was able to perform this task for $34 in parts and 45 minutes of time (mostly getting those tubes with the pressure release points off) after watching this video. Thanks.
Thanks Martin! What a great video for addressing this issue. I especially appreciated you safety comments, like wearing eye protection was extremely benefitial.
Thank you for this video I just bought a 07 Colorado just like yours and I have been racking my brain trying to get my truck to pass emission for a week now. I've changed gas cap that was almost $100 bucks which was a stupid crazy price at the dealership and the thermostat which was $91 bucks at the parts store again another stupid crazy price for one of those. Thank you for showing the part #'s to both the solenoid and the adapter I found both parts on amazon for $36.80 USA because I live in GA in one of the few counties where we have to have emissions. I didn't know this truck had a charcoal canister or the solenoid so again a big thanks for showing how easy it is to change the parts yourself.
Thanks man you are a genius, I temporarily “fixed” the problem and I got no more codes, I did it almost as you did it just that I used a small 12v bulb and it cheated the computer, I tried before the solenoid valve arrives and it worked thanks to your video, thanks again for your knowledge.
Great video. Thanks a million. Looked at it several times. Followed your process and parts to fix PO449 on my 2010 Canyon. $35 total for OEM solenoid and harness shipped from ebay. One thing that you did not mention is that the bracket is held in place by the center piece of the bracket that is located on both the canister and solenoid side of bracket. It is slightly bent down to keep the solenoid in place. I used a screwdriver to pry the center piece up and and the bracket came of easily with a little tap of hammer even though it was heavily rusted. After reinstalling the bracket the center piece gets pushed down again. I also added a small stainless steel worm clamp to the hold the hose on tightly.
Thank you for this video- I followed the example and it was pretty easy to complete the change. Great, easy to understand video!
Very clear video! Thanks so much. Not much experience with auto repair on my part so your video definitely came in handy.
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was very well done! Good idea to test the wiring and computer before putting everything together! Safety glasses! Genius. I REALLY appreciate how you learned about the H3 replacement parts and were good enough to share that information! A big deal.
I'm Robert. I have a 2009 GMC Canyon that threw this alarm in December and my mechanic is dragging his feet on it, so here I am! Your tutorial has given me the confidence to do the repair myself. You rock!
Let us know how you made out.
Thank you for the video! Check engine light is off and this video could not of been better. I bought the part from autozone part number pv428. 30 bucks and truck is fixed.
Thanks buddy for the info just did this job cost me 71$ every thing from the dealer great video
thanks for the vid. it was really helpful. I checked the connector first then bought AC Delco #214-2149 from Amazon and it worked. it's for the normal "oval" style connector with the small v-notch. i did not need the adapter harness that many speak of. i have a 2005 crew cab 3.5L Xtreme.
I just got a 2011 and i cannot thank you enough! part to arrive tomorrow and will update once installed.
Thanks to your work and research, I was able to save over $80 dollars. Also your video was very helpful.
Just did my Impala, same part. Very helpful, thanks.
Thank you so much for this step by step tutorial. I have the same truck with ironically enough the same mileage as yours, LOL! H3 hummer parts? who would have known? FY, the part you specified in this video is available in the US at O'Reilly's for $56.99 with the harness adapter. Autozone has the OEM part for the the Chevy Colorado for $34.99. Thank you again.
Very useful to see the whole process visually thank you very much
I got both parts cost me 51.87 for the harness and the canister but that beats paying 147.99 plus tax im so thankful i i watched your video
Very helpful and save me a lot of money
, Live in Texas cost me about 50 bucks
thank you
thanks Martin guys like you help out a lot its good just to get a eye on things ..great video showed everything and you enplaned it excellent
The parts arrived today, I soaked the vaccum tank mounting bolt (13 mm hex) with liquid wrench, I had trouble with one of the special hose fasteners coming loose, so I used a pair of welder's vice grips to hold the 2 white release tabs on the 90 degree hose connector, while I held tank in one hand and twisted the plastic hose with the other. Once I broke the male plastic tube connection (per video) on the old defective solenoid, I sprayed silicone on the new solenoid mail tube and slightly in the old 90 degree plastic line and kept pressing them together (for about 10 minutes) and twisting the hose, finally it seated up on the solenoid properly. Dealer wanted $335.00, took an hour laying in my driveway gravel AND the $28.00 for the solenoid and special wire connector. I had to drive vehicle for about a mile before the little engine shaped light when out. Thank for video!
P.S. I didn't lower the spare tire, AND did get dirt in my face.
Thank you so much for this video.... helped me with my own truck
Thanks for making this video.. very informative.. I haven't run into this issue.. but I love my Colorado and if the issue ever comes up... now i'll know how to fix it :)
Ok, there seems to be quite a bit of confusion over what the EVAP system is for and how it works, so I'll try to give a simplified explanation.
In the "good old days" (the 70s and before) automotive fuel systems were simple. You had a fuel tank that you filled through a filler tube that connected to the outside of your car via the gas cap. Attached to the fuel tank, a fuel pump forced gasoline or diesel through a narrow hose with a filter somewhere along its length into a small "cup" in your carburetor. The amount of fuel in the cup was controlled by a small float in the cup that cut off the fuel feed when the cup was full and allowed it to flow again when the level dropped. Air rushing into your engine through the throat of the carburetor sucked the fuel from the cup into the engine cylinders through something called a venturi, which atomized the fuel as it mixed with the air. Even with the fuel cap on, the fuel system was vented to the outside air (usually near the filler cap) to equalize the pressure so that you didn't starve your carburetor as the volume of fuel in the tank dropped, or the fuel volume varied with ambient temperature. This allowed your engine to get the fuel it needed, but it also allowed polluting hydrocarbons which evaporate from gasoline to escape into the atmosphere even when your car wasn't running, which is a "very bad thing".™
As engine control went electronic beginning in the 70s and the carburetor was replaced by fuel injectors, California, and later other jurisdictions, mandated that these evaporating hydrocarbons be captured and stored until they could be burned in the engine. The modern EVAP system was born to accomplish this.
Several components were added to the old-style fuel systems. First, a canister full of charcoal beads was placed at the end of the vent tube that equalized the pressure in the fuel system. This charcoal captures and holds the escaping hydrocarbons, which are drawn back into the fuel system and burned when the engine is running. Air is allowed to flow in and out through the canister but hydrocarbons are captured before they escape to the open air. For this to work properly, the charcoal canister must be the ONLY opening from the fuel system to the outside world (when the gas cap is on). To allow the engine computer to test this two valves were added, controlled by solenoids. The vent valve/solenoid, as the name suggests, is inserted in the vent line between the charcoal canister and the outside air. The purge valve is mounted on the intake manifold and a hose on the other end of the valve is attached to the fuel system.
Normally, the vent valve is fully open and the purge valve allows a small vacuum to suck the hydrocarbons back out of the canister and into the engine cylinders. This also allows the vent to equalize the pressure in the fuel system by drawing or releasing air through the charcoal canister to the outside air. Every so often the ECU tests the integrity of the EVAP system seal by tightly closing the vent valve and temporarily fully opening the purge valve. With the purge valve open to the intake manifold a significant vacuum is formed in the fuel system. The purge valve is then closed tightly and a sensor measures how long the vacuum in the EVAP system is maintained. This test is usually done a few minutes after the vehicle is started from completely cold (i.e. first thing in the morning). When the test is complete the vent valve is opened again and the purge valve returns to normal too.
If the vacuum is maintained for some predetermined period then the EVAP system passes the test. If however the vacuum doesn't hold then there is a leak in the EVAP system and the ECU will turn on the Check Engine Light and stores a DTC code. If the leak is bad then a P0455 code is stored. If the leak is not so bad but the seal is still not tight enough, then a P0442 code is stored instead.
Needless to say, if either solenoid or valve is defective then the EVAP test cannot complete correctly and may give erroneous results. Likewise, a defective vacuum sensor can cause the ECU to think there is a leak when there isn't (or vice-versa). If all the valves, solenoids, and sensors are working properly then there really is a leak somewhere if a DTC code is stored in the ECU.
Unfortunately, a DTC code in the ECU rarely points to a single component, but instead give you an idea of were to start looking. Hopefully this explanation sheds some light on what the various EVAP DTC codes could mean.
Your video was a fantastic help to me...thanks!!
Excellent video. I had the same problem on my 2007 Colorado. Ordered my parts on eBay for total of $35.
Thanks to guys like you I been fixing things myself. Thank you, perfect demonstration. 2004 Colorado
Do you have a Crew Cab? Just wondering if the location is the same on a Crew Cab? I have an 04 thought I read the tank may need to be dropped on this truck if it is a CC. Thanks
@@Austin-bp8sr Yes, I had a crew cab Z71. In fact I just sold it this past weekend. Just get underneath and the cannister is right there. Only thing I found is the parts store said they didn't have the hummer replacement part so I had to buy the whole thing. Was super easy to do. Good luck
@@CM-ux9qq Thank you very much. I bought my 04 new and it is still in good shape. Only 125,000 on it. I would like to get a new one but waiting until the 'Chips' come in so the prices come down.
Thanks again.
All I can say is "those bastids". Thanks for this vid, so glad I stumbled upon it. Otherwise I would have summarily gone into Autozone and paid $156.00 for this part and another $30.00 for the adapter. Incidentally my own subsequent research which I will mostly credit you for uncovered an ACDelco part# 214-2149. It's on Amazon for $13.60 and appears to have the oval connector eliminating the need for an adapter altogether. Pic could be incorrect, but I'm going to order it and see what comes. One more thing, your suggestion for removing the hose worked like a charm, but to replace it on the new part I'm going to dip it in some boiled water for a few seconds. Thanks mate, I salute you.
Thanks so much ! Very much appreciated from Port Moody BC
awesome video, repair made easy for less than $50 following these instructions to fix P0449 service check engine code. My valve had multiple cracks all over it, so It definitely was bad
Both parts, light tester and a can of rust converter, all on Amazon for just over 50$.. Great video! Thanks lots!!!
Thanks for your idea. I did find an aftermarket complete valve/hose/harness for about $70 US. But found the valve and harness separately for $35 on Amazon. And they are both AC Delco parts.
Really, really great video. I picked the solenoid up on Amazon for $23 plus tax... What a difference!!The Hummer H2 works as well. The connector adapter is $8.99 plus tax on Amazon as well.I am sure in past 4-5 years price has come down from the time vid was shot.
I want to say THANK YOU i just ordered the parts to do my Colorado
Saved me a pile of money and it was right on. Thanks no more check engine light.
Thank you so much for this video, huge help.
Hi Martin just got mine today 112.00 everything include hose was already connect with the harness just take the old one off and put the new one on.Tks in a million to make us save money .It was deliver right at my door a happy man.to bad I cannot post the parts here would should it
Great detailed video!
Excellent video! Thank you for the help!
Excellent information very good video presentation thank you
Thanks for the info was a big help,amazon had both parts total cost was a little over 30 dollars
Very good diagnostic video ! Well done sir . Thank you .
Happy it was helpful. :-D
Thanks Martin very useful video.
Thanks so much. Worked great!
EXCELENT VIDEO!!!! Best explanation I've ever scene!!! Thank You. You just saved me a ton on Money.
Excellent video thank you!
video really helped, thanks for posting
awesome video , Now i can fix mine . New to all this Thanks for your help .
Perfect video. Very much appreciated.
thank you! great walkthrough
Thanks this video saved me over $100
Amazing video bro thank you
Eres un chingon muy buena explicación a detalle , you are better,the explanation is complete
I took my Colorado in for a "recall"notification fron G.M. on TPS, and it was not the problem, they charged me about $75.00 to tell me it was the vaccum canister solenoid. I found the 2 items you mentioned for $19.00 and $9.00 respectfully. So it would have been cheaper to let autozone help by scanning. THANKS!
@mingoyai... actually a defective solenoid probably wouldn't even be noticed without the engine code. This is an emissions control defect, not a performance one. I've seen some state that your fuel economy is slightly affected by a bad solenoid, but if so the effect is very small. Since doing this repair on my truck I have seen both the solenoid and wiring adapter available online as a set for under $40 so if you have the time it is probably worth doing. If you had to pay the full $200+ or $400 for dealer installation I would say ignore it because you won't notice any performance problems, but for $40 you might as well repair it, especially if you live somewhere like I do where you have to pass an emissions test every two years to renew your license sticker. Any emissions system error codes is an instant fail.
excellent video nice job
great video
I just watched this and replaced the same thing on my wife's 2006 Hummer H3. Both part numbers were correct. The harness was available at my local ACDelco dealer. Both parts cost about $70 CAD total. The only difference was the large hose in your video (with the push button release) was different on the H3. Still managed to get it off though. I was expecting the 13mm bolt to be rusted solid . . . but it came out. Thanks again.
Can you tell me how to get the hoses off the hummer, no magic white buttons and I can't even see them. Thanks!
ordered the acdelco cilinoid off amazon for 17 dollars took me 20 min tops to change out didn't have to drop the spare didn't even Jack it up the hardest part was getting the hoses off the canister thank you for your video was alot of help
2006 colorado z71 extended cab I5
part 214-2149
I did without removing the spare as well, surprisingly easy
Yes, the spare tire doesn't block the canister and solenoid in any way. The only reason I suggest dropping it is because it makes it a lot easier to slide yourself under the truck without needing to raise it at all. If you don't mind using a jack (AND STAND!) or you are slim enough that the tire doesn't get in your way, then there is no need to remove it.
awesome info, thank you
great work.
Very helpful. It is worth adding that you can now get a vent/solenoid at AutoZone. Ask for part PV485 and they will hand you an exact replica that fits exactly. It's a $24 part. Switch the hose as described in this video because that hose doesn't come with the part. If AutoZone looks up the Colorado they will find another part that is priced at $100. It comes with the $75 accessory hose if you're into wasting money.
I found this part with the harness on Rock Auto, for $15.91. Great video btw ,Thanks!
Wow, great price. I think that's the cheapest anyone has reported by quite a bit.
I bought a scanner with live data off wish for like 12 bucks, took a month but it works great and it connects to my phone via bluetooth
Hi Martin man was I please went I saw your video and tks a million GM and other garage want 550.00 to change mine and went I saw you video .I went to ebay and got one with connector adaptor ,hose already in place and for the only sum of 112.00 .peoples like you make us happy .At the cost of today living man I wish I could pay you a beer lollll.Tks again now they come all in one peace
Glad the video was helpful to you. From your description it seems you bought the Canyon/Colorado part, not the Hummer one. As you found out that version is quite a lot more expensive, even from an Internet vendor. There are Web vendors selling the Hummer version and the adapter harness for less than $40 USD combined and if you follow my instructions that part will work just as well as the Canyon/Colorado one.
worked for me thanks
Good información thank you
What a hero. Thank you
As an alternative, use a ACDelco 214-1091 for early 2000's pickups. Shape is different but will slide in the bracket just the same and uses the same oval connector.. Only difference for the install is after cutting the old solenoid, DO NOT crack the pipe. The valve won't protrude as far so the hose will come up short. Add 3-4" of 5/8" ID hose as an extension and done. Valve is in the $15-30 range. A Delco 25950499 for a trailblazer will work as well. And put the bracket on a flat surface and wack it w/ a hammer. It will shock the rust build-up loose and make reassembly much easier
Thanks great video i was about to buy gm part for 125$ ending up getting hummers
good work
Great video, thanks for thoroughly going through the whole process. I was able to find the solenoid/purge valve on Amazon for ~$15 here in the States
I owe you a beer!
Hey thanks for the insightful info. Do you think that perhaps some PB Blaster or WD 40 would help make the install of the bracket into the solenoid easier?
Thanks so much for posting this. Quick question for you. Where’d you get that test light? Seems like it’d be perfect for a lot of car electronics given the voltage.
Thank you!!
I had the exact same problem. The OEM Chevy part was $146.00. I used your trick and ordered a 2007 Hummer part that was an exact replacement for $23.00. I didn't even need the adapter. So, you saved me $123.00. Its a simple fix. Thank you for the advice.
That's interesting. Are you saying your truck is a 2007 model? If so, that means that the harness was changed for the 2007 model year since my 2006 Colorado uses the old harness and I needed the adapter cable.
Yes, my truck is a 2007 and the 2007 Hummer part was the same plug. I used a real heat gun to get the vinyl tube off of the old solenoid. Heat worked for me. I didn't have to saw off and crush the plastic inside. Awesome tip ordering the Hummer part. It worked just as you said. A hundred and twenty three Thank you's!!
airkraftinc Thanks for the update. That means that if you have a 2005/2006 model you will need the adapter. Anything from 2007 onward and you should be able to do this repair without the adapter.
That seems to be correct. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not need the adapter. Thanks again for the advise.
+airkraftinc Just want to comment for anyone reading airkraftinc's comment later on. I don't recommend using a heat gun to soften the hose since the temperatures they can reach are probably not safe around the fuel vapors that are released when the hose is disconnected. A hair dryer is probably fine, but real heat guns can get hot enough to set fire to wood or paper, so I wouldn't trust one around gasoline.
Cheers.
Would what a great video. If you had more about fixes for the same truck I would watch them all. I have one and could use the tutorials
Bonjour merci beaucoup vous m'avez beaucoup aidé pour le problèmes que je vais avec mon chevrolet silverado maintenant je pense que je vais pouvoir réparer encore une fois merci les vidéos sur sympa et en plus vous ai expliqué bien grand merci