Yes! I regularly sheath carry a 3 dot '80-'81 110 with the thicker squared bolsters and 440C steel. I'd love to see if the 440C outperforms the 425M and 420HC as stated by other steel enthusiasts.
Love the Buck 3 dot 1980-81. I have scored a bunch of them the last couple years in almost new condition for around $60 and love the heavier squared off thicker bolsters compared to the newer ones. All of the 3 dot's I have are perfect in blade centering and I almost feel that there was more attention to quality control compared to the newer ones. I did get a 4 dot from 1982 with finger grooves and had Buck switch out the 425M blade for a drop point 420HC (only option). But the blade isn't perfectly centered like all the 3 dot's. Going back to the old school steels.
Thanks! They all cut about the same honestly, I have one from the 80’s that belonged to my wife’s father, it holds the best edge. I’m too afraid to hammer on the classic ones and that’s a shame because it’s a tool. I have enough knifes to know it’s the heat treating that it’s wayyyyyy more important than the type of metal it’s made of. You get good bucks knife and bad ones back to back off the store shelf, because the heat treating variance.
@@amateurism1 That is the truth about the heat treat. Buck has mastered 420HC with their Bos heat treatment, giving 420HC more than normal edge retention for this lower end 0.5% carbon steel. I'm pretty sure on edge retention testing its performing as good as some of the 440C out there. Not sure how Buck can squeeze so much performance out of 420hc it shouldn't be performing as good as some 440c with a much higher carbon percentage of 1.1% . But you're totally right about variances in heat treating on different batches of the same knive models from batch to batch. I happen to like D2 on the lower end of steels, but D2 is harder for companies doing larger mass-produced heat-treatments to get right. Basically a lot of mass-produced D2 blades are not performing nowhere near as good as they should like on paper. When AUS-8 is holding a edge better than D2 someone F up!☺
Do you guys really want to see me do a true comparison?
Yes! I regularly sheath carry a 3 dot '80-'81 110 with the thicker squared bolsters and 440C steel. I'd love to see if the 440C outperforms the 425M and 420HC as stated by other steel enthusiasts.
Love the Buck 3 dot 1980-81. I have scored a bunch of them the last couple years in almost new condition for around $60 and love the heavier squared off thicker bolsters compared to the newer ones. All of the 3 dot's I have are perfect in blade centering and I almost feel that there was more attention to quality control compared to the newer ones. I did get a 4 dot from 1982 with finger grooves and had Buck switch out the 425M blade for a drop point 420HC (only option). But the blade isn't perfectly centered like all the 3 dot's. Going back to the old school steels.
Enjoyed that. Thanks
Freaking Awesome, l got burnt lol ! 😂😂
Thanks! They all cut about the same honestly, I have one from the 80’s that belonged to my wife’s father, it holds the best edge. I’m too afraid to hammer on the classic ones and that’s a shame because it’s a tool.
I have enough knifes to know it’s the heat treating that it’s wayyyyyy more important than the type of metal it’s made of. You get good bucks knife and bad ones back to back off the store shelf, because the heat treating variance.
@@amateurism1 That is the truth about the heat treat.
Buck has mastered 420HC with their Bos heat treatment, giving 420HC more than normal edge retention for this lower end 0.5% carbon steel. I'm pretty sure on edge retention testing its performing as good as some of the 440C out there.
Not sure how Buck can squeeze so much performance out of 420hc it shouldn't be performing as good as some 440c with a much higher carbon percentage of 1.1% .
But you're totally right about variances in heat treating on different batches of the same knive models from batch to batch.
I happen to like D2 on the lower end of steels, but D2 is harder for companies doing larger mass-produced heat-treatments to get right.
Basically a lot of mass-produced D2 blades are not performing nowhere near as good as they should like on paper.
When AUS-8 is holding a edge better than D2 someone F up!☺
Mine says 110 + what does that mean.
110 is the model, the plus symbol is the date code (year).
Your BUCK 110 was made in 1991.