I had the no crank issue on 02 Impala that drove me crazy. I replaced ignition switch, did the resistor key thing and replaced the ICM. Checked the starter, the after market alarm, crank sensor. Nothing worked. After fixing or replacing each of these items, the car might start but in 2-3 days, the no crank would return. I then replace the ECM, and problem solved. Three years and going strong....
Quick Update. It's late May 2020 and my Brother's 2001 Impala starts every time although after it warms up the power trunk release and assorted lights constantly turn on and off. As long as it's still running I try not to even think about it 😎
The airbags on our 02 impala deployed without having accident. I'm told to replace the body control module. Didn't know about dealer needing to relearn . Errrr
My 02 Impala had all kinds of weird electrical problems, finally no crank over, no start. Did some research, replaced keyswitch, end of problems. That was 2 years ago and no problems since.
Appreciate the video. I have an 03 model but lately some of the same things have been cropping up. At first it was the no crank / radio lock. Did the key on for 10 minutes - turn it off and then it would crank. Sounds like passlock activated so I had my mechanic deactivate the theft lock through the computer. Not really worried about someone stealing it. Then as the weather got warmer, the car would always start but 10 seconds into the drive, the radio would lock and the info screen in the dash would alternate between the red battery, and then Service Engine Soon and finally Security. It would cycle through that all through drive. Also noticed that the DRL would be on then turn off after 10-12 seconds stay off for about 5 seconds and then come back on. Didn't realize that until I was behond someone and I could see them going on and off. So far and this has been about 3-4 months, turn signals, headlights at night, brake lights all function normally so i can still drive the car. here's the thing though: If its 60 degrees out on my morning drive into work, EVERYTHING functions normally. Radio does not lock, no dash indication that there's a problem, DRL's stay on. But as soon as it gets warmer out (and the ambient temp inside the car is warmer) problems come back. So to me, its a thermal issue. Maybe a cold solder joint(s) that when it heats up things go south. And over the last week, not something is draining the battery even when its off. No lights on but in 10 hours the battery will be dead, so I put a 2 amp maintainer on it for now until I can figure this out. I live in the woods so rodents can be an issue, but I ruled out a wiring harness issue when I found out that the it always works fine in cooler temps. I love this car and its my daily driver to keep miles off my truck but it sure is annoying. Oh and I should mention in case it helps others out there that when all the "effery" is happening in the warmer temps, a scan using a SnapOn tablet will show a U1064 code indicating an issue with the communication to the BCM. My cheap BAFX ODB Chinese Bluetooth plug in dongle will not pick that up.
I'm going through the very same problem with an 01 impala. Been all over the son of a gun. Guess I just gotta keep stabbing in the dark. Thanks for your info it was somewhat helpful to me.
I have a 2003 Impala and the clusters work, but when I drive it for awhile the speedometer, temperature, and gas meter go out. I go back to turn it on and everything is normal again. And sometimes it doesn't want to crank. Is it the bcm or the instrument cluster? Can anyone help with this problem?
Purchased an 02 impala a few months ago and it's been a nightmare. A little over a month ago I started hearing a clicking sound coming from the drivers side dash near the headlight switch. Along with the clicking, the headlights were flickering with the headlight switch in the off position.The radio lights also flicker with the clicking. When I pulled the headlamp relay the clicking stopped but when I swapped it out the clicking started again, no change. The problem seemed to happen more often during the day so I thought it might have something to do with the daytime running lights. I covered the drl sensor with my hand and the clicking stopped so thought I had a solution. during the day I would cover the sensor and would have no clicking but....when it got dark, even with the sensor covered, the clicking and flashing lights started again as soon as I opened the drivers door. Pulled the drl relay and no change. Another post I read said that it may have something to do with the body control module and that I could expect other electrical problems to start soon. Sure enough, a few days later, the ignition coil burned out and I had to replace that. Also, the power locks will not work unless the car is running. I have yet to try replacing the BCM and from what I understand, the BCM has to be flashed by a dealership? My temporary solution is to keep the drl sensor covered during the day and when I park it for the night I disconnect the battery. Anyone else with similar problems? This freakin' car is haunted.
Yes. My neighbors 06 Impala. All the lights go off and on, including the dash lights, and door locks cycle. I'm looking to youtube for a fix, but it looks like a nightmare situation.
Has there been any update? My 2005 Chevy Impala police interceptor is having the same issue. I honestly think it's damage to my BCM harness because it had a mouse I caught at one point, the horn 📯 also failed around the same time.
GM may not be responsible to fix the problem since these cars are so old. But they sure should at least tell us how to fix it. I talked too a guy the other day that says his has been doing it since it was a new car but could never get it to act up for the dealer.
My 07 has been sitting for a good 7 months now. I thought originally it was Covid gas a.k.a. bad gas. I have replaced everything because it was running bad. I have put it in 3 shops. I shop read something about the theft deferent. They told me they think is electrical and didn't charge me. The next shop was a chevy dealership and they told me it was my catalytic converter. So I replaced it myself after paying them $200 to tell me what the other shop already told me. Which was the codes reading open fuel injectors. Only firing on 3 cylinders. Needless to say it was not the cat and I got a full $200 bucks at the scrap yard for it. It was a real pain in the ass drilling out the old bolts on that cat to be able to install the new one. I don't have a lift either. I have researched as well and tried everything i.e. replaced throttle body, gas pedal, coil pack, wires, plugs, fuel injectors, secondary air pumps, smog pump, fuel pump even. I ran it out of gas recently and now it will crank over and die. I am thinking its the security for sure at this point. I am about to pull the ecm and send it to a company I have used before to test it and make sure it is reading. It will cost me like $100 bucks to diagnose and $150 to fix any drivers not working. I have an issue with tcs coming on 20 seconds after start as well. I have also read the key switch can be the culprit. I had a recall and supposedly fixed it but who knows. It could be the cause of the problem now. I noticed you said you had a battery change. I have a battery current sensor on my battery cable and wonder if you do as well. It reads the current into the computer and the computer sends a signal to the alternator for needed output. If that sensor is missing or not installed in the correct direction or on the correct wire it could be your culprit. If the sensor is installed on the positive the tape tab (the tab that sticks out so you can tape it to the harness securely) should be facing the the battery. If it is on the negative it should face away from the battery. I haven't given up yet but I am beginning to hate chevy after 40 years of supporting them. My car is beautiful as well, leather interior fairly clean and used to be a really nice ride. Now caput. Good luck with yours and if I ever fix mine I'll get back to you with the solution. It's driving me bonkers as well. Hate to junk a beautiful car. It's like chevy did this to make you trade it in and buy new. I bought this one new for my daughter and after this I am never buying new again. I maintained it and kept it nice and it should still be running but instead its becoming an eye sore.
I appreciate your input, however, the Impala is gone and surely someone else's problem. It was most definitely Security linked. The Car sat for 6 months (wouldn't crank) and 1 night I decided to try the relearn process which worked. Car continued to start and drive normally. It had issues with relays turning on and off and draining the Battery. Anyway, it's a headache I'm glad to no longer have. Good luck trying to solve the mysterious. If you have any luck make sure to post the Information.
@@danielm.2534 I finally solved the issue. The theft detterent was activated. Which is why it wouldn't start after I ran it out of gas. I had to do the relearn twice to clear it. Still had injector issues tcs light on etc. So I pulled the computer and much to my surprise saw that somehow water got in there and corroded my pins off. I had 6 pins broken off . I ordered a new computer online and installed it. I am so happy. My car is pretty much all rebuilt and drives like she is brand new again. Hoping it is a long lasting fix.
I have similar problem car starts runs good then after it's warm you turn it off and it won't start back up it cranks and after sitting for 10 min or an hour it will run again has 50 psi of feul pressure and it's getting spark I already changed coolant and crank sensor and still dos it any idea
This was several years ago already but I don't believe your problem is similar to my Brother's '01 was so I can't really help you out. His was primarily a computer module issue.
I have a 01 lesabre,the guage cluster except security light is blank,door locks trunk lock,turn signals,ac clutch,basically nothing inside works, obd2 port has power but cant connect, does anyone have any ideas?????? Checked every fuse and relay 4 times, the car starts and drives no problem tho..
@Ray Roach ayy so it ended up being the security system, I put the factory radio back in foe the hell of it and everything worked! So I disabled the security antitheft thru the radio, which is weird but can be done, now no probs, I thought bcm also but the security among other systems runs through the factory radio
buenas amigo manda a liberar el ecu que esta en el filtro de aire del motor esas ecu la liberan del BCM aqui en mi taller tengo uno y ya la mande liberar un técnico de ecu de carros
Dear Sir...why in the name of all thats wholy would you subject yourself to this frustration and a milliom dollars worth of GMs BS over a 500 dollar sure fix...bite the bullet man and you won't have to make these videos ....cause trust me ...I own a 2001 malibu and GM does this type sh$ t to their vehicles just to keep DIYs in their place....you're not gonna beat them at their game.....they got the play book and they know it !
Same issues. As I continue to dig into the issues the problems seem to get worse. It started with rear directionals only and they didn’t work not even on the dash, then it wouldn’t turn over and now I can’t get the trunk to pop. I think I’m continuously locked out with the “security system.” As well and anyway just wondering did you replace the board or were you able to find a failed part on the circuit board. I don’t wanna throw money at this thing what I’m working on doesn’t look near as nice as yours. I’m actually working on this for a stepsons girlfriend who in my opinion was taken advantage of, she brought it to me to look at 8 hrs after buying it and here it sits worse than when she pulled in the drive way!
Never figured out what the issue was. It was my Brothers car and once I had it where it would start every time he got rid of it. I don't believe GM ever addressed this however i do think they made a bunch of changes near the end of that particular body style. For the most part I liked the car but If I were you I would'n't waste much time or money trying to fix it.
I really don't know. Any information I found on the issues the Car was having pointed to the BCM so that's where I started. I did the old 30 minute x's 3 reset method for the Security light and the last attempt got the car cranking and running again, even without the BCM. The Car is still starting and is driven occasionally but once things heat up Relays and lights start clicking on and off but the Car keeps on running. Hard to believe that after all these years no one has discovered what the real problem is.
@@danielm.2534 I Agree with you man, there's no way people didn't figure it out this issue after all this Years, Just that people that did never got a chance to share it on forums on the internet for others to learn from, either they didn't want to share or they never got a chance to share the knowledge... But, Same thing going on with Me right now, My car's cooling fans keeps coming on on cold engine. Every article and video posted about this issue points towards the ECT being bad, I've changed My Coolant temp sensor multiple times, That still didn't seem to solve My issue, And Sadly enough I just can't find out why it's doing this.
The ecm is still in it. Hidden under the air filter box. That is the engine's brain while bcm just controls the things on the body. So it would start without out but act out like it is.
My 01 Impala would start every time, however SECURITY light sometimes be on. Months later sometimes door locks, interior lights, radio act up and clicking near glove box . After MUCH study ordered new BCM at Chevy dealer, 2 weeks later it came in, I drove to dealer , removed battery blk. cable, pulled down BCM ( has one ft. cable, is above emergency brake pedal, has many plastic hooks to unplug 3 jacks). Then installed NEW BCM . Cost $90 for dealer to program it. The BCM board was $250 . I kept the removed BCM. Labor may cost 250 ? They program twice to make trunk & everything work. I have 7 yr. dc electric school & experence . Was blessed to fix the Impala .
yo puedo solucionar el resto de las funciones del carro electrónicamente sin el BCM pero lo unico hay que liberar la ecu del BCM eso lo hacen aqui en Venezuela
I had the no crank issue on 02 Impala that drove me crazy. I replaced ignition switch, did the resistor key thing and replaced the ICM. Checked the starter, the after market alarm, crank sensor. Nothing worked. After fixing or replacing each of these items, the car might start but in 2-3 days, the no crank would return. I then replace the ECM, and problem solved. Three years and going strong....
05 gm vehicles ecm's are notoriously ungrounded. ground yours.
Quick Update. It's late May 2020 and my Brother's 2001 Impala starts every time although after it warms up the power trunk release and assorted lights constantly turn on and off. As long as it's still running I try not to even think about it 😎
The airbags on our 02 impala deployed without having accident. I'm told to replace the body control module. Didn't know about dealer needing to relearn . Errrr
My 02 Impala had all kinds of weird electrical problems, finally no crank over, no start. Did some research, replaced keyswitch, end of problems. That was 2 years ago and no problems since.
I agree they need to step up and take care of this
Appreciate the video. I have an 03 model but lately some of the same things have been cropping up. At first it was the no crank / radio lock. Did the key on for 10 minutes - turn it off and then it would crank. Sounds like passlock activated so I had my mechanic deactivate the theft lock through the computer. Not really worried about someone stealing it. Then as the weather got warmer, the car would always start but 10 seconds into the drive, the radio would lock and the info screen in the dash would alternate between the red battery, and then Service Engine Soon and finally Security. It would cycle through that all through drive. Also noticed that the DRL would be on then turn off after 10-12 seconds stay off for about 5 seconds and then come back on. Didn't realize that until I was behond someone and I could see them going on and off. So far and this has been about 3-4 months, turn signals, headlights at night, brake lights all function normally so i can still drive the car. here's the thing though: If its 60 degrees out on my morning drive into work, EVERYTHING functions normally. Radio does not lock, no dash indication that there's a problem, DRL's stay on. But as soon as it gets warmer out (and the ambient temp inside the car is warmer) problems come back. So to me, its a thermal issue. Maybe a cold solder joint(s) that when it heats up things go south. And over the last week, not something is draining the battery even when its off. No lights on but in 10 hours the battery will be dead, so I put a 2 amp maintainer on it for now until I can figure this out. I live in the woods so rodents can be an issue, but I ruled out a wiring harness issue when I found out that the it always works fine in cooler temps. I love this car and its my daily driver to keep miles off my truck but it sure is annoying.
Oh and I should mention in case it helps others out there that when all the "effery" is happening in the warmer temps, a scan using a SnapOn tablet will show a U1064 code indicating an issue with the communication to the BCM. My cheap BAFX ODB Chinese Bluetooth plug in dongle will not pick that up.
Makes totally sense since that's what controls the anti theft system.
Everything has a solution, just have to work hard trying to find the answer. I had the same problem.
I'm going through the very same problem with an 01 impala. Been all over the son of a gun. Guess I just gotta keep stabbing in the dark. Thanks for your info it was somewhat helpful to me.
🐻 armed 😂
I’m sitting here with your same frustrations in starting issues.
I have a 2003 Impala and the clusters work, but when I drive it for awhile the speedometer, temperature, and gas meter go out. I go back to turn it on and everything is normal again. And sometimes it doesn't want to crank. Is it the bcm or the instrument cluster? Can anyone help with this problem?
Purchased an 02 impala a few months ago and it's been a nightmare. A little over a month ago I started hearing a clicking sound coming from the drivers side dash near the headlight switch. Along with the clicking, the headlights were flickering with the headlight switch in the off position.The radio lights also flicker with the clicking. When I pulled the headlamp relay the clicking stopped but when I swapped it out the clicking started again, no change. The problem seemed to happen more often during the day so I thought it might have something to do with the daytime running lights. I covered the drl sensor with my hand and the clicking stopped so thought I had a solution. during the day I would cover the sensor and would have no clicking but....when it got dark, even with the sensor covered, the clicking and flashing lights started again as soon as I opened the drivers door. Pulled the drl relay and no change. Another post I read said that it may have something to do with the body control module and that I could expect other electrical problems to start soon. Sure enough, a few days later, the ignition coil burned out and I had to replace that. Also, the power locks will not work unless the car is running. I have yet to try replacing the BCM and from what I understand, the BCM has to be flashed by a dealership? My temporary solution is to keep the drl sensor covered during the day and when I park it for the night I disconnect the battery.
Anyone else with similar problems? This freakin' car is haunted.
Yes. My neighbors 06 Impala. All the lights go off and on, including the dash lights, and door locks cycle. I'm looking to youtube for a fix, but it looks like a nightmare situation.
Have same car just started doing that not as severe just won’t crank. Am a mechanic for over 50 years. Still trying to figure it out
Has there been any update? My 2005 Chevy Impala police interceptor is having the same issue. I honestly think it's damage to my BCM harness because it had a mouse I caught at one point, the horn 📯 also failed around the same time.
GM may not be responsible to fix the problem since these cars are so old. But they sure should at least tell us how to fix it. I talked too a guy the other day that says his has been doing it since it was a new car but could never get it to act up for the dealer.
My 07 has been sitting for a good 7 months now. I thought originally it was Covid gas a.k.a. bad gas. I have replaced everything because it was running bad. I have put it in 3 shops. I shop read something about the theft deferent. They told me they think is electrical and didn't charge me. The next shop was a chevy dealership and they told me it was my catalytic converter. So I replaced it myself after paying them $200 to tell me what the other shop already told me. Which was the codes reading open fuel injectors. Only firing on 3 cylinders. Needless to say it was not the cat and I got a full $200 bucks at the scrap yard for it. It was a real pain in the ass drilling out the old bolts on that cat to be able to install the new one. I don't have a lift either. I have researched as well and tried everything i.e. replaced throttle body, gas pedal, coil pack, wires, plugs, fuel injectors, secondary air pumps, smog pump, fuel pump even. I ran it out of gas recently and now it will crank over and die. I am thinking its the security for sure at this point. I am about to pull the ecm and send it to a company I have used before to test it and make sure it is reading. It will cost me like $100 bucks to diagnose and $150 to fix any drivers not working. I have an issue with tcs coming on 20 seconds after start as well. I have also read the key switch can be the culprit. I had a recall and supposedly fixed it but who knows. It could be the cause of the problem now. I noticed you said you had a battery change. I have a battery current sensor on my battery cable and wonder if you do as well. It reads the current into the computer and the computer sends a signal to the alternator for needed output. If that sensor is missing or not installed in the correct direction or on the correct wire it could be your culprit. If the sensor is installed on the positive the tape tab (the tab that sticks out so you can tape it to the harness securely) should be facing the the battery. If it is on the negative it should face away from the battery. I haven't given up yet but I am beginning to hate chevy after 40 years of supporting them. My car is beautiful as well, leather interior fairly clean and used to be a really nice ride. Now caput. Good luck with yours and if I ever fix mine I'll get back to you with the solution. It's driving me bonkers as well. Hate to junk a beautiful car. It's like chevy did this to make you trade it in and buy new. I bought this one new for my daughter and after this I am never buying new again. I maintained it and kept it nice and it should still be running but instead its becoming an eye sore.
I appreciate your input, however, the Impala is gone and surely someone else's problem. It was most definitely Security linked. The Car sat for 6 months (wouldn't crank) and 1 night I decided to try the relearn process which worked. Car continued to start and drive normally. It had issues with relays turning on and off and draining the Battery. Anyway, it's a headache I'm glad to no longer have. Good luck trying to solve the mysterious. If you have any luck make sure to post the Information.
@@danielm.2534 I finally solved the issue. The theft detterent was activated. Which is why it wouldn't start after I ran it out of gas. I had to do the relearn twice to clear it. Still had injector issues tcs light on etc. So I pulled the computer and much to my surprise saw that somehow water got in there and corroded my pins off. I had 6 pins broken off . I ordered a new computer online and installed it. I am so happy. My car is pretty much all rebuilt and drives like she is brand new again. Hoping it is a long lasting fix.
Get a used bcm from ebay. Make sure it's same make/model for as cheap as 15 bucks no program necessary
I have similar problem car starts runs good then after it's warm you turn it off and it won't start back up it cranks and after sitting for 10 min or an hour it will run again has 50 psi of feul pressure and it's getting spark I already changed coolant and crank sensor and still dos it any idea
This was several years ago already but I don't believe your problem is similar to my Brother's '01 was so I can't really help you out. His was primarily a computer module issue.
I have the same car but won't do a thing only cranks when I jump the relay..... need help
I have a 01 lesabre,the guage cluster except security light is blank,door locks trunk lock,turn signals,ac clutch,basically nothing inside works, obd2 port has power but cant connect, does anyone have any ideas?????? Checked every fuse and relay 4 times, the car starts and drives no problem tho..
@Ray Roach ayy so it ended up being the security system, I put the factory radio back in foe the hell of it and everything worked! So I disabled the security antitheft thru the radio, which is weird but can be done, now no probs, I thought bcm also but the security among other systems runs through the factory radio
buenas amigo manda a liberar el ecu que esta en el filtro de aire del motor esas ecu la liberan del BCM aqui en mi taller tengo uno y ya la mande liberar un técnico de ecu de carros
lo hace un técnico que repare ecu de carros la liberan del BCM y te prende como gustes sin Passlock ni nada
Dear Sir...why in the name of all thats wholy would you subject yourself to this frustration and a milliom dollars worth of GMs BS over a 500 dollar sure fix...bite the bullet man and you won't have to make these videos ....cause trust me ...I own a 2001 malibu and GM does this type sh$ t to their vehicles just to keep DIYs in their place....you're not gonna beat them at their game.....they got the play book and they know it !
Same issues. As I continue to dig into the issues the problems seem to get worse. It started with rear directionals only and they didn’t work not even on the dash, then it wouldn’t turn over and now I can’t get the trunk to pop. I think I’m continuously locked out with the “security system.” As well and anyway just wondering did you replace the board or were you able to find a failed part on the circuit board. I don’t wanna throw money at this thing what I’m working on doesn’t look near as nice as yours. I’m actually working on this for a stepsons girlfriend who in my opinion was taken advantage of, she brought it to me to look at 8 hrs after buying it and here it sits worse than when she pulled in the drive way!
Never figured out what the issue was. It was my Brothers car and once I had it where it would start every time he got rid of it. I don't believe GM ever addressed this however i do think they made a bunch of changes near the end of that particular body style. For the most part I liked the car but If I were you I would'n't waste much time or money trying to fix it.
Well that's a shocker. The Car is not supposed to start without the BCM, how did this happen?.. :?
I really don't know. Any information I found on the issues the Car was having pointed to the BCM so that's where I started. I did the old 30 minute x's 3 reset method for the Security light and the last attempt got the car cranking and running again, even without the BCM. The Car is still starting and is driven occasionally but once things heat up Relays and lights start clicking on and off but the Car keeps on running. Hard to believe that after all these years no one has discovered what the real problem is.
@@danielm.2534 I Agree with you man, there's no way people didn't figure it out this issue after all this Years, Just that people that did never got a chance to share it on forums on the internet for others to learn from, either they didn't want to share or they never got a chance to share the knowledge... But, Same thing going on with Me right now, My car's cooling fans keeps coming on on cold engine. Every article and video posted about this issue points towards the ECT being bad, I've changed My Coolant temp sensor multiple times, That still didn't seem to solve My issue, And Sadly enough I just can't find out why it's doing this.
The ecm is still in it. Hidden under the air filter box. That is the engine's brain while bcm just controls the things on the body. So it would start without out but act out like it is.
My 02 is doing the same thing I can jump the starter and it will fire up and dies after a couple seconds
My 01 Impala would start every time, however SECURITY light sometimes be on. Months later sometimes door locks, interior lights, radio act up and clicking near glove box . After MUCH study ordered new BCM at Chevy dealer, 2 weeks later it came in, I drove to dealer , removed battery blk. cable, pulled down BCM ( has one ft. cable, is above emergency brake pedal, has many plastic hooks to unplug 3 jacks). Then installed NEW BCM . Cost $90 for dealer to program it. The BCM board was $250 . I kept the removed BCM. Labor may cost 250 ? They program twice to make trunk & everything work. I have 7 yr. dc electric school & experence . Was blessed to fix the Impala .
yo puedo solucionar el resto de las funciones del carro electrónicamente sin el BCM pero lo unico hay que liberar la ecu del BCM eso lo hacen aqui en Venezuela
Could've been megatron
You have to be fuc#++ kidding me this is crazy
What are you going to do Chinese don't care.
I would pull all the trouble codes , components might be out of range