Almost drowned today. 6 foot waves and I got caught under. I panicked for a few seconds, and then just accepted what was happening and relaxed. If I had fought the waves from underneath I probably would’ve drowned. Real life metaphor. Got up only to get pounded again. Third massive wave and I just dove into it and let my body go limp. Did some underwater somersaults and was banged into the rock bottom pretty good, but I’m alive and ok. Had a great rest of the day with my brother. I guess Shit happens but it’s always how you react that makes the difference. No stopping the waves in the water, and for our lives on land. Stay safe and have a blast guys. 🤙
Man those officers were stupid...LOL!..Just kidding...don't want any problems with those guys...sorry man...on big sets you will breath through mouth ...after few large waves getting workout...now when you are back onboard you should try as much to breath through nose...rest of tips are good but need more elaboration..main advice especially for medium begginers surfing large waves which could be 5-25+ ft depending on your experience... A. workout on land as much as you can to proper exercises YOU FEEL give you endurance and oxygenation, this means proper calming thoughts will come because you feel good at ease surfing whatever you call large surf. B. Surf as much as you can stay fit eat well. C Don't get into large surf if you don't feel confident..your body knows...don't follow your ego trip...except for pro big wave surfers they are a breed in themselves...you probably are not. D. Don't eat much go with empty stomach this means empty having gone completely to bathroom #1,2,3 etc...:) E. Get to line up and rest for as long and more than what you think the worst and most accidents will happen to you , or have already, when you are tired. Don't surf tired. Don't paddle into waves tired. Rest in lineup...do breathing techniques or whatever there ... Finally this simple dice will change your surf experience and avoid you from bad accidents experienced which hindrance your sports...in fact applies to most sports...especially the #1,2,3 clean empty stomach "secret"....cheers and don't drown..is not funny...one last one forgot...LEARN PRACTICE DUCK DIVING A LOT..duck diving saves soooo much energy ....
I fell on the first wave of a set on my 9 foot longboard and got caught on the rest. Scary as hell. Tried to relax but ultimately by the last wave of the set, I was completely exhausted. Adrenaline kicked in and I knew I had to catch the next smaller wave or I’d be in big trouble.
Scariest moments in Surfing ! When you get trapped in a wave and the wave pushes you to the bottom of the sea. So our reflex is to start panicking and try to go up as fast as possible.
Thanks for making these videos, I am learning a lot and enjoy the stories you tell about your experiences and the experiences of others as well. That story about the leash messing up your hip is so heavy wow I’ve never felt anything like that, thankfully! I also like that you talk so fast haha thanks again :)
Great video man, thank you! Currently doing apnea tables using an app to help increase my breath hold time. I hear you about Dominical, that’s a nasty beach break 🤙🏼🌊
OK, I get the breathing. But what do I do with my body? Do I curl into a ball or what? What do I do with my board? If I let go of it Im afraid of getting his by it. If I try to hold on to it it will get ripped from my hands. The only thing that seems to work for me is swimming under the wave having ditched the board, but then it rips my ankle off with the leash.
Same here. I used to be a skater in my teens & twenties, 49now. Been surfing for about 10times now. I do have the balance and popping up is no big deal. I already took a wave little under 2m. But there's the constant fear those type of waves and i'd like to know how to deal with that. Got stuck on the inside between waves that became higher than 2m that day and panic set in. I was traumatized for about 3 days to a point where i got scared just looking at a 1m wave.... This panicking stuff is very real..... Wish you a lot of good times and progress !!
Great vid ! I got worked today more than I’ve ever before . I thought I’d paddled out far enough to catch big swell waves , but didn’t realize some even larger sets were coming through. I got hit by about 5 or 6 10 footers in a row In impact zone. What surprised me most was how far under water I got pushed and getting thrown around, I’m generally calm but the violence of the turbulence threw me off. My leash felt like it was going to be torn off so I headed back to shore. How do you deal with the turbulence and getting thrown around ?
Hey bro! Ya thats not fun at all. especially that many in a row. I just protect my head with both arms and try to curl up. The curl up is hard but the protect the head part is just a reflex now.
@@HydroMind Do you typically ditch your board when about to get slammed? I feel like I need to practice on mid-sized waves hitting me so next time they're huge, I will be more ready
@@laurenpeters3234 Hey Lauren, since I posted this i've worked a lot on duck diving .. nathan florence surfs huge waves and says he never bails. So, I have pretty much adopted that advice and only bail if lip if really going to hit me on head. Otherwise, I bear hug my board and actually helps get to surface more. ... One thing that helped me overcome my fears was going out only when there are say 5 other surfers around the area... I got totally freaked out when I was like 1/4 mile out alone . When others are in nearby area, way less scary. Also, if getting super worked ... just catch whitewash back to shore to get out of impact zone then paddle back out. Not worth risking a lip on head by paddling towards unless 100% sure will make it. Also, make sure you don't go out in big waves unless really in shape and feeling good that day. I took just 2 weeks off surfing w/ bad weather ... was pretty scary going out even 5 foot wave day when feeling winded. When surfing everyday, way less scary. ... Also, learn to duck dive deeper with foot and learn to push board ahead and under helps (vs knee). And, if you're pushing thruogh top of big wave, if feel like going to get sucked over falls, push board into wave then hop off to side to make sure you don't get sucked over. ... Lastly, my leash snapped when i was super far out there one day ... having to swim back in was pretty scary, but it gave me way more confidence that I can do it. So, just swimming out when some say 5 foot waves and swimming back could give some confidence boost (assuming others are around and some lifegards nearby). It's also helped me to chat w/ tons of surfers on this topic and realize that such experiences are common and no reason to lose confidence. Advice on Hydro Mind is super good and helped me a lot .. the breathing techniques especially and staying calm. Good luck!
@@laurenpeters3234 duck dive deeper, tilt board slightly to one side and hang on. If on a log, well that's something I don't know much about. I duckdive all my boards up to my 7'2. Anything bigger I roll or just take the wash in and paddle back out in the rip.
This is really good instruction Thank you for helping me address this ..and helping me to reach my full potential in the water. I've been out for some time and it's my fitness and fear of bigger waves that's holding me back. I look forward to more posts
11 years ago I was very confident, then got stuck in the shore break in storm swell n nearlly drowned. N I've never been the same. Cuz I don't know how to get outta that situation (even tho techincally I do cuz I survived that day obviously lol) but yea I'm trying to train but I live an hour away from surf. So I only get to go up 1 day a week
Couldn’t agree more. Was out yesterday in 5-7 at a beach break and got the beating of my life upon getting closed out. It’s a truly humbling experience.
This is so true! Its like every time you get one in the head you have two options, either 1 panic because of not being in control of the situation or 2 stay calm and get back on your board and continue surfing. I think your training helps surfers to choose option 2 when getting caught inside 🤙
I learned early on that you’ve got to relax and enjoy it. It’s not always a full-body massage from Mother Nature, but most of the time getting pummeled isn’t too bad.
I’m a beginner bodyboarder. Got caught inside today for the first time. Was at Huntington CA, at the pier. Current was ripping me toward the pier. I couldn’t do shit but try to duck dive waves. I was getting tired and my dives were becoming less and less deep, so I started getting thrashed by the waves. Finally just as I got pushed to the pier pylons... the set ended 🤣 I learned a lot during that situation. I think that’s what being caught inside is lol
This goes into prep phase knowing the wave you are surfing. Open beach break ya you’re going to have random rips but usually if you watch other surfers time and time again they will use it or stay clear of it. If it’s a bad one you’ll see surfers in the water constantly paddling away from it. Take your time to watch the break with and without surfers. Always have a plan, if you didn’t have fins and boogie boards you probably would’ve had a much worse time.
When I'm on a beach break and the whitewater is under 4 feet tall i stand on the sandbar and just as i lift my board over the whitewater. I do this til I get out to where I can maybe punch through the waves. It works if the waves aren't that big.
I Have been a smoker for the past 9 years pretty heavily about a pack a day. I think I've ruined my lungs, So nose breathing is really hard for me since i feel like i never get a deep breath. I use a 6x4 breathe count in the water and either 2x2 or 4x4 when going against white water, and 2x2 when paddling for a wave and it seems to help. However I still workout breathing through my nose, and do your co2 training where you exhale all your air and hold and workout for as long as you can, but in the water I use my mouth.
I’m a mouther due to a sinus condition i had as a kid. Not meticulous about breath rates, i just gulp what i can then head for the bottom. Keep surfing! I’m past my prime but still hit it. 🤙
Great advice. It does make a huge difference. One thing I would like to add is, even though it's good to practice at home, it's better to practice in the water. I would recommend going out on a smaller day, and intentionally getting caught inside and practice these techniques. Practice it in small surf you can easily paddle out of if things don't go well, and then you'll be more comfortable doing it in the heavy waves when the stakes are bigger.
Let’s be real. We’re all here cause we’ve had this happen to us. My scare was a few days ago. Important stuff here!
hey bro! glad you like it!
Yes, this has happened. I was not prepared but now I am!
Q
Q++
pro tip: you can watch movies on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
Great video! Went out in 6 ft surf Beach break and got properly pounded. Panicked twice and had to sit out for a bit. Thank you for the help🤙
It happens! It'll make you stronger
Nothing like scrapping for the horizon when you see those bigger freak sets coming in pure adrenalin!!!!!!Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your advice Last week i got caught in massive waves I'm gonna try what you said Keep you posted.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes!
Almost drowned today. 6 foot waves and I got caught under. I panicked for a few seconds, and then just accepted what was happening and relaxed. If I had fought the waves from underneath I probably would’ve drowned. Real life metaphor. Got up only to get pounded again. Third massive wave and I just dove into it and let my body go limp. Did some underwater somersaults and was banged into the rock bottom pretty good, but I’m alive and ok. Had a great rest of the day with my brother. I guess Shit happens but it’s always how you react that makes the difference. No stopping the waves in the water, and for our lives on land. Stay safe and have a blast guys. 🤙
Man those officers were stupid...LOL!..Just kidding...don't want any problems with those guys...sorry man...on big sets you will breath through mouth ...after few large waves getting workout...now when you are back onboard you should try as much to breath through nose...rest of tips are good but need more elaboration..main advice especially for medium begginers surfing large waves which could be 5-25+ ft depending on your experience...
A. workout on land as much as you can to proper exercises YOU FEEL give you endurance and oxygenation, this means proper calming thoughts will come because you feel good at ease surfing whatever you call large surf.
B. Surf as much as you can stay fit eat well.
C Don't get into large surf if you don't feel confident..your body knows...don't follow your ego trip...except for pro big wave surfers they are a breed in themselves...you probably are not.
D. Don't eat much go with empty stomach this means empty having gone completely to bathroom #1,2,3 etc...:)
E. Get to line up and rest for as long and more than what you think the worst and most accidents will happen to you , or have already, when you are tired. Don't surf tired. Don't paddle into waves tired. Rest in lineup...do breathing techniques or whatever there ...
Finally this simple dice will change your surf experience and avoid you from bad accidents experienced which hindrance your sports...in fact applies to most sports...especially the #1,2,3 clean empty stomach "secret"....cheers and don't drown..is not funny...one last one forgot...LEARN PRACTICE DUCK DIVING A LOT..duck diving saves soooo much energy ....
I fell on the first wave of a set on my 9 foot longboard and got caught on the rest. Scary as hell. Tried to relax but ultimately by the last wave of the set, I was completely exhausted. Adrenaline kicked in and I knew I had to catch the next smaller wave or I’d be in big trouble.
When I took a couple deep breaths in I relaxed so much that i actually had to go do a number 2. Guna surf tomorrow again I'll keep this in mind.
Hope you pulled down your wetsuit this time! 👻
@@theyoungupstarts1243 lol yeah thankfully I wasnt in the water when I did that.
when it’s on, there’s usually two before leaving la casa. 👻
A cop who picks up his own shells is harder to convict.
Scariest moments in Surfing ! When you get trapped in a wave and the wave pushes you to the bottom of the sea. So our reflex is to start panicking and try to go up as fast as possible.
Thanks for making these videos, I am learning a lot and enjoy the stories you tell about your experiences and the experiences of others as well. That story about the leash messing up your hip is so heavy wow I’ve never felt anything like that, thankfully! I also like that you talk so fast haha thanks again :)
Hey Clare! Thanks for the love. I really appreciate that. I hope you never have a leash pull that hard, but if it does I hope you are ready!
Great video man, thank you! Currently doing apnea tables using an app to help increase my breath hold time. I hear you about Dominical, that’s a nasty beach break 🤙🏼🌊
OK, I get the breathing. But what do I do with my body? Do I curl into a ball or what? What do I do with my board? If I let go of it Im afraid of getting his by it. If I try to hold on to it it will get ripped from my hands. The only thing that seems to work for me is swimming under the wave having ditched the board, but then it rips my ankle off with the leash.
Awesome, I am an old beginner that’s trying to soak up as much information as possible, and trying to be safe before I catch my first wave. Thank you.
Same here. I used to be a skater in my teens & twenties, 49now. Been surfing for about 10times now.
I do have the balance and popping up is no big deal. I already took a wave little under 2m.
But there's the constant fear those type of waves and i'd like to know how to deal with that.
Got stuck on the inside between waves that became higher than 2m that day and panic set in.
I was traumatized for about 3 days to a point where i got scared just looking at a 1m wave....
This panicking stuff is very real..... Wish you a lot of good times and progress !!
Great vid ! I got worked today more than I’ve ever before . I thought I’d paddled out far enough to catch big swell waves , but didn’t realize some even larger sets were coming through. I got hit by about 5 or 6 10 footers in a row In impact zone. What surprised me most was how far under water I got pushed and getting thrown around, I’m generally calm but the violence of the turbulence threw me off. My leash felt like it was going to be torn off so I headed back to shore. How do you deal with the turbulence and getting thrown around ?
Hey bro! Ya thats not fun at all. especially that many in a row. I just protect my head with both arms and try to curl up. The curl up is hard but the protect the head part is just a reflex now.
@@HydroMind Do you typically ditch your board when about to get slammed? I feel like I need to practice on mid-sized waves hitting me so next time they're huge, I will be more ready
@@GuitarWithBrett dude same question! Are you meant to board ditch when you’re that far in the impact zone and can’t duck dive?
@@laurenpeters3234 Hey Lauren, since I posted this i've worked a lot on duck diving .. nathan florence surfs huge waves and says he never bails. So, I have pretty much adopted that advice and only bail if lip if really going to hit me on head. Otherwise, I bear hug my board and actually helps get to surface more. ... One thing that helped me overcome my fears was going out only when there are say 5 other surfers around the area... I got totally freaked out when I was like 1/4 mile out alone . When others are in nearby area, way less scary. Also, if getting super worked ... just catch whitewash back to shore to get out of impact zone then paddle back out. Not worth risking a lip on head by paddling towards unless 100% sure will make it. Also, make sure you don't go out in big waves unless really in shape and feeling good that day. I took just 2 weeks off surfing w/ bad weather ... was pretty scary going out even 5 foot wave day when feeling winded. When surfing everyday, way less scary. ... Also, learn to duck dive deeper with foot and learn to push board ahead and under helps (vs knee). And, if you're pushing thruogh top of big wave, if feel like going to get sucked over falls, push board into wave then hop off to side to make sure you don't get sucked over. ... Lastly, my leash snapped when i was super far out there one day ... having to swim back in was pretty scary, but it gave me way more confidence that I can do it. So, just swimming out when some say 5 foot waves and swimming back could give some confidence boost (assuming others are around and some lifegards nearby). It's also helped me to chat w/ tons of surfers on this topic and realize that such experiences are common and no reason to lose confidence. Advice on Hydro Mind is super good and helped me a lot .. the breathing techniques especially and staying calm. Good luck!
@@laurenpeters3234 duck dive deeper, tilt board slightly to one side and hang on. If on a log, well that's something I don't know much about. I duckdive all my boards up to my 7'2. Anything bigger I roll or just take the wash in and paddle back out in the rip.
Don’t let your board go, Barnies.
This is really good instruction Thank you for helping me address this ..and helping me to reach my full potential in the water. I've been out for some time and it's my fitness and fear of bigger waves that's holding me back. I look forward to more posts
Hey man thanks. Would love to catch waves with you. In northwest USA.
Ya man would love that! I’m west coast Canada so if I’m ever headed down I’ll make it known!
11 years ago I was very confident, then got stuck in the shore break in storm swell n nearlly drowned. N I've never been the same. Cuz I don't know how to get outta that situation (even tho techincally I do cuz I survived that day obviously lol) but yea I'm trying to train but I live an hour away from surf. So I only get to go up 1 day a week
Couldn’t agree more. Was out yesterday in 5-7 at a beach break and got the beating of my life upon getting closed out. It’s a truly humbling experience.
Awesome advice!
This is so true! Its like every time you get one in the head you have two options, either 1 panic because of not being in control of the situation or 2 stay calm and get back on your board and continue surfing. I think your training helps surfers to choose option 2 when getting caught inside 🤙
Well said bro! That's exaclty what I'm hoping got do!
I learned early on that you’ve got to relax and enjoy it.
It’s not always a full-body massage from Mother Nature, but most of the time getting pummeled isn’t too bad.
Great advices man, thank you for your videos
Glad you like them!
I’m a beginner bodyboarder. Got caught inside today for the first time. Was at Huntington CA, at the pier. Current was ripping me toward the pier. I couldn’t do shit but try to duck dive waves. I was getting tired and my dives were becoming less and less deep, so I started getting thrashed by the waves. Finally just as I got pushed to the pier pylons... the set ended 🤣 I learned a lot during that situation. I think that’s what being caught inside is lol
Yes man! That's a great lesson to learn. I'm glad you didn't get hurt. You'll be much stronger because of it.
that’s scary bro. thankfully hb hasn’t been big in a while. could’ve been scary glad you’re good
A guy from Florida who lived in his van drove all the way out to California 1st time, at around 45, and died on those pier pilons maybe 5 years ago.
This goes into prep phase knowing the wave you are surfing. Open beach break ya you’re going to have random rips but usually if you watch other surfers time and time again they will use it or stay clear of it. If it’s a bad one you’ll see surfers in the water constantly paddling away from it. Take your time to watch the break with and without surfers. Always have a plan, if you didn’t have fins and boogie boards you probably would’ve had a much worse time.
Surfing HB enough you learn the pier will actually pull you out easier.
When I'm on a beach break and the whitewater is under 4 feet tall i stand on the sandbar and just as i lift my board over the whitewater. I do this til I get out to where I can maybe punch through the waves. It works if the waves aren't that big.
Any tricks on stopping your board from tombstoning? I stay relaxed but if a multiple clean up set comes through it drag me half way to the beach.
thanks! I feel your intention to help others. Subscribed!
I Have been a smoker for the past 9 years pretty heavily about a pack a day. I think I've ruined my lungs, So nose breathing is really hard for me since i feel like i never get a deep breath. I use a 6x4 breathe count in the water and either 2x2 or 4x4 when going against white water, and 2x2 when paddling for a wave and it seems to help. However I still workout breathing through my nose, and do your co2 training where you exhale all your air and hold and workout for as long as you can, but in the water I use my mouth.
I’m a mouther due to a sinus condition i had as a kid.
Not meticulous about breath rates, i just gulp what i can then head for the bottom.
Keep surfing! I’m past my prime but still hit it. 🤙
This is gold thanks man 🤟
I've been getting really good at body boarding and getting better at surfing and this is one of the biggest reasons I have a hard time getting better
Mason Huebler yeah i went surfing in a place where i was a little under experienced but it all works out. Hope you get better at surfing brother :)
You're awesome you probably saving lives with your video thank you
Happy to help, i hope so!
Right on man 🤙🏼
🤙
Great advice. It does make a huge difference. One thing I would like to add is, even though it's good to practice at home, it's better to practice in the water. I would recommend going out on a smaller day, and intentionally getting caught inside and practice these techniques. Practice it in small surf you can easily paddle out of if things don't go well, and then you'll be more comfortable doing it in the heavy waves when the stakes are bigger.
So true!