Absolutely a healthy choice to not Sprint. And I have been doing that for decades. And have had to pay an unnecessary price. I am Shure some of you have seen the black spots. 🤙🌊be safe
Watched lots of videos on this issue on youtube but non of them tell you wether to duck dive or ditch or what position to hold your body in to prevent injury, or, if you ditch how to stop your leash riping your leg off or your board hitting you? Would love answers to these questions. Currently surfing in Bali and the waves have huge energy compared to the UK where Im from, finding it very challenging.
Very good info. Mark Healey's pin drop bail. Has another part to it. If you can you lift up and then you flip your board over as you drop down putting your board 45° angle with the nose facing towards the wave upside down. And if the wave is a roller and there's no lip. You can stick with it straight ahead angle. Why bother with the extra step you might ask? If you get this wired the wave will flip your board over perfectly and it'll come slinging right back to you .when you pop up. And always remember to pop up with your hands up first.. try that out Kyle you might like it
I was looking for different footage of that mark healy wave . Someone said there is also footage from the boats perspective but i cant find it. From 2014 maverics
Great video! What do you think is average hold down time for say 8-10 foot waves ? How do you factor in the bottom? When do you decide to try to head to shore ?
not exactly sure what the average hold down time for 8-10 foot waves is but from my own experience I would say that it is probably around 5-6 seconds.(obviously it feels a lot longer than that when you are actually being held down.) I go in when I feel like I am very tired and feel like I am not making any progress in getting out of the impact zone. One thing noting about my comment is that I have very little experience in surfing waves of that height. I have only surfed (or more like survived) a couple of 8 foot waves and only been held down by a few waves that were 10 feet so I could be completely wrong about everything. Anyway, I hope my reply helped you out.
@@jasperfeldschuh3644 I have to agree they arent that long. for 6-8 foot. Sometimes you get caught in some weird tumbling loop though. Big waves can do quite a bit of thrashing even at 6 foot. Have had parts of my libs hit each other in ways I didnt think would happen (outside ankle of one leg to front of shin on other). I think being forward thinking is key like this video says.. The worst situation I was in was when my take off went wrong on a big wave and I landed chest first. Wind was knocked out and I now was in for a hold down.
“ spending a ton of energy” “heavy mouth breathing” three different video pauses to express that lol that was repetitive…however, great video, informative and thorough analysis of these clips thanks!!
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it's more than a surf tip, it's a life tip!
Absolutely a healthy choice to not Sprint. And I have been doing that for decades. And have had to pay an unnecessary price. I am Shure some of you have seen the black spots. 🤙🌊be safe
Why nobody mentions going into a ball , wrapping your knees with arms so that you don't get arms legs and back torn all over...
the force is most likely to strong to ball up
@@marleyskinner8463 thats why one ought to ball up or your limbs and back could be torn apart ...
Watched lots of videos on this issue on youtube but non of them tell you wether to duck dive or ditch or what position to hold your body in to prevent injury, or, if you ditch how to stop your leash riping your leg off or your board hitting you? Would love answers to these questions. Currently surfing in Bali and the waves have huge energy compared to the UK where Im from, finding it very challenging.
Very good info. Mark Healey's pin drop bail. Has another part to it. If you can you lift up and then you flip your board over as you drop down putting your board 45° angle with the nose facing towards the wave upside down. And if the wave is a roller and there's no lip. You can stick with it straight ahead angle. Why bother with the extra step you might ask? If you get this wired the wave will flip your board over perfectly and it'll come slinging right back to you .when you pop up. And always remember to pop up with your hands up first.. try that out Kyle you might like it
when he draws that tree diagram, he switches the sprint and accept outcomes one after the other lol
Good eye!
Did the 2nd guy, mark, not duck dive because the wave had broken already?
Their boards are long making it difficult to duck dive, and the these type of waves are too big to make a successful duck dive
No he didn’t duck dive because the wave was 30ft
I was looking for different footage of that mark healy wave . Someone said there is also footage from the boats perspective but i cant find it. From 2014 maverics
Depends on where you are!! I sprint if I'm close, I ve been sucked over the falls backwards several times too, that's not fun!!
That was very well explained!!
Thank you.
Ps. I not even a surfer!!
Lol
I like this g
Thanks homie
Great video! What do you think is average hold down time for say 8-10 foot waves ? How do you factor in the bottom? When do you decide to try to head to shore ?
not exactly sure what the average hold down time for 8-10 foot waves is but from my own experience I would say that it is probably around 5-6 seconds.(obviously it feels a lot longer than that when you are actually being held down.) I go in when I feel like I am very tired and feel like I am not making any progress in getting out of the impact zone. One thing noting about my comment is that I have very little experience in surfing waves of that height. I have only surfed (or more like survived) a couple of 8 foot waves and
only been held down by a few waves that were 10 feet so I could be completely wrong about everything. Anyway, I hope my reply helped you out.
@@jasperfeldschuh3644 I have to agree they arent that long. for 6-8 foot. Sometimes you get caught in some weird tumbling loop though. Big waves can do quite a bit of thrashing even at 6 foot. Have had parts of my libs hit each other in ways I didnt think would happen (outside ankle of one leg to front of shin on other). I think being forward thinking is key like this video says.. The worst situation I was in was when my take off went wrong on a big wave and I landed chest first. Wind was knocked out and I now was in for a hold down.
less than 10 seconds
8-10 faces or 8-10 hawaii?
Great video
As always, awesome content bro ! Thanks a lot, keep up the good work :) Cheers from the South of France
Love it!!!
“ spending a ton of energy” “heavy mouth breathing” three different video pauses to express that lol that was repetitive…however, great video, informative and thorough analysis of these clips thanks!!
Thanks for the feedback!