Very cool. 3 D printing is very handy. I bought a Prusa as my third printer and now I can print rather than tune printers. Hopefully the Ender will work well. Step 0: Don't breath the fumes. Dry filament is step 1. Unless you live where the humidity is very low, you need to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant packs. I bought tiny digital humidity monitor pucks to put in each bag. A cheap food dehydrator works well to dry the filament. Seeing a roll of filament out of the bag means it is not ready for printing. With moisture PLA becomes brittle and the moisture in it turns to steam when printing and screws up the flow rate and causes stringing. 2. Always start the print the same way. I wipe the bed with a paper towel and alcohol before every print. Oil from fingers will mess things up. If he print doesn't stick well to the bed, raise the first layer temperature and bed temperature. If it sticks too well, lower the first layer temperature and bed temp. 3. Print the first layer. Stop the print. Peel it up. Measure the thickness with calipers. Make adjustments until it is the correct thickness. These steps will ensure a good print. I often go with a thick first layer to avoid problems. Maybe 0.28 mm, then drop to the desired layer thickness, maybe 0.2 mm. A thick first layer helps deal with small variations.
Filament goes in the back-right, under the red thing, and feeds through the red thing (which is attached to the extruder motor), through a tube and into the extruder, which is where it's melted and dropped onto the part you're making. You can squeeze the handles of the red thing to disengage the extruder gears and allow you to push it all the way through if you like. Cutting the filament at about 45 degrees might help feeding it through.
It's very hard to print flexible filament with a bowden exdruder like one ur printer have but u can conver it to a direct extruder. Websites like thingivers are full of ready-made models to convert your printer into a direct extruder.
yeah i dont have a clue about that, so i guess ill ask Paul from polymate 3d :) when i want to use this material what to do :) but its a good step in the right directions ! and thanks for letting me know something to think about !
Nice! i dont know a single thing about 3D printers. but i heard of ender, mostly the world record benchy of a ender 3. and yes its a woman that made that machine go faster then most 3D printers and beat the world record :) i think thats cool on its own :)
I was following some nice tinkering channels in the past, then they got a 3d printer and from then on, they got lost in the subject and all videos after that wre about 3d printing stuff. I truly hope you wont go down that route, i dont want to loose you that way, like i did many others.
@@joppepeelen probe for leveling the bed, it just removes so much hedache. direct drive is better than bowden in everything except weight. there are a few mods that upgrades this printer to a more modern and higher performing machine. also rasperry pi and klipper if nothing else is really nice for better and easier controls
Very cool. 3 D printing is very handy. I bought a Prusa as my third printer and now I can print rather than tune printers. Hopefully the Ender will work well. Step 0: Don't breath the fumes. Dry filament is step 1. Unless you live where the humidity is very low, you need to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant packs. I bought tiny digital humidity monitor pucks to put in each bag. A cheap food dehydrator works well to dry the filament. Seeing a roll of filament out of the bag means it is not ready for printing. With moisture PLA becomes brittle and the moisture in it turns to steam when printing and screws up the flow rate and causes stringing. 2. Always start the print the same way. I wipe the bed with a paper towel and alcohol before every print. Oil from fingers will mess things up. If he print doesn't stick well to the bed, raise the first layer temperature and bed temperature. If it sticks too well, lower the first layer temperature and bed temp. 3. Print the first layer. Stop the print. Peel it up. Measure the thickness with calipers. Make adjustments until it is the correct thickness. These steps will ensure a good print. I often go with a thick first layer to avoid problems. Maybe 0.28 mm, then drop to the desired layer thickness, maybe 0.2 mm. A thick first layer helps deal with small variations.
thats a good tip !, i might get some baggs and a few bags of the crap to soak moisture in to keep the reels moist free. ! thanks !
Filament goes in the back-right, under the red thing, and feeds through the red thing (which is attached to the extruder motor), through a tube and into the extruder, which is where it's melted and dropped onto the part you're making. You can squeeze the handles of the red thing to disengage the extruder gears and allow you to push it all the way through if you like. Cutting the filament at about 45 degrees might help feeding it through.
thanks for the tips !! i added it by now :)
Congratulations and welcome to the world of 3D printing!
haha yeah you know all about it :) for me its gone be a world of pain :) but looking forward to it !
It's very hard to print flexible filament with a bowden exdruder like one ur printer have but u can conver it to a direct extruder. Websites like thingivers are full of ready-made models to convert your printer into a direct extruder.
yeah i dont have a clue about that, so i guess ill ask Paul from polymate 3d :) when i want to use this material what to do :) but its a good step in the right directions ! and thanks for letting me know something to think about !
I have the same printer, once set-up well, it's a great printer IMO.
Nice! i dont know a single thing about 3D printers. but i heard of ender, mostly the world record benchy of a ender 3. and yes its a woman that made that machine go faster then most 3D printers and beat the world record :) i think thats cool on its own :)
Finally ) Long live to the viewer!
indeed !! else it would take me another 3 years or so :)
I was following some nice tinkering channels in the past, then they got a 3d printer and from then on, they got lost in the subject and all videos after that wre about 3d printing stuff. I truly hope you wont go down that route, i dont want to loose you that way, like i did many others.
I am sure I that wont happen ! Everything I have on tools where bought or made to create loudspeaker related things :) no worries!
@@joppepeelen i am glad to her that. 😊
get a probe and convert to direct drive , or do the conversion mod !
what do you mean by getting a probe and direct drive ? (last thing i can guess) although i've seem an ender break world record with simple belts ?
@@joppepeelen probe for leveling the bed, it just removes so much hedache. direct drive is better than bowden in everything except weight. there are a few mods that upgrades this printer to a more modern and higher performing machine. also rasperry pi and klipper if nothing else is really nice for better and easier controls
@@joppepeelen ruclips.net/video/kmMW6_7lrlQ/видео.html
@@zap117 thank you ! i might look into what is cost effective, but first i guess i try as is. i am a complete 3d newbie so :)
@@joppepeelen as a start get at least a bl touch and a raspberry pi. It will save you allot of headaches until you know if you want to go deeper