What a beautiful job, the mechanic himself and the man behind the camera!... Absolutely priceless! What an amazing world we live in, to have Master mechanics showing the rest of us how to do these things!
+Peter Danels Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
That was a really great video. I have a 2003 Lincoln Town Car and my shop has told me that I need to replace my lower control arms. I trust them to tell me the truth and they have saved me money in the past. They have told me that this job is going to cost me $930 which is a lot but watching this I can see why. We live in an apartment and I don't have access to a lift and at 65 I don't have the inclination to use jack stands and go crawling around on my back attempting this job. The car's only worth about $3,500 on Craigslist but it's supremely reliable and hopefully this is it's only major cost this year. Thank you for the concise information.
I love this channel this guy showed me how to do everything to my crown vic thank you guys so much ik its old but to me its gold you guys also make me wanna be a mechanic i been working on my car since i was 19
03 and newer have stamped steel ones too. this vehicle has the standard suspension. Stamped steel is the heavy duty suspension. But you are right about the rack. 03 is when they got an entire front end upgrade.
Congrats on one of the best how-to videos out there. Concise logical camera work, every detail explained, good lighting, freaking torque specs, this was like going to church, music to my ears. Was there a specific reason this P needed new lower control arms or you just wanted to show us how the pro's do it? Thanks!
+tinkie tinkie Thanks for watching! In this case our vehicle needed a new control arm because the bushing and ball joint were both worn out. Perfect opportunity to show you how to perform this repair!
We just did this the other day before watching the video and we didn't take out the steering rack, simply loosen the two nuts to have the rack loose, then remove the rack boots at the big end, and you will have just enough room to take off the lower control arm bolts
i did this job just like he did but did not have to disconnect steering shaft/ i lifted the rack up with a crowbar and removed bolts and did the same installing them a tight fit but it came out perfect !!
You don't actually have to remove the steering column from the rack, since the steering column extends and retracts with the joints built in but you do have to remove the one bolt and stud on whichever side control arm you are replacing in order to slide the steering rack forward enough for bolt clearance. I did my lower control arm about 5 months ago and I can't remember removing the sway bar, I don't think that's necessary either.
@@1995flyingspur was it difficult for you to remove the stud ? Did you use the method in the video (double nut) or did you just remove it with a socket.
I’m literally at this point and could not figure out how to get the lower control arm bolt out without removing the rack and pinion. The rack and pinion just kept hitting on the oil filter housing. Great video Thanks! ! !
I must commend you for the content and instruction of this lower control arm replacement on a Crown Victoria. It is absolutely the best and most informative instructional video I have ever seen showing control arm replacement. Not only did you make it look easy, your narration of each and every step as you performed was great. The camera work was spot on, showing exactly what was required for each step of the way. I was totally impressed with this video and your knowledge from start to finish. Thank you! Now that brings up a question, I saw that the control arm you installed included the trailing arm bushing, it was loose in place but you tightened and torqued it up. On my car, the lower control arm bushings are fine as is the ball joint. Upon inspection, only my rear bushing is worn. Can just the trailing arm bushing assembly be replaced without replacing the complete the lower control arm? Thanks again for the great video and its content.
I have a 2000 crown Vic that has too much play in steering and it kinda snatches during left turns on the highway. It'll also clunks when I turn the wheel while sitting. Could the lower control arm be the culprit?
Many thanks. Just did this on my 2004 in my driveway. I didn't remove the rack, but turned the wheel as someone else mentioned. I barely got the bolt out. I could not get it back in. It was drivers side, so I took out the long bolt of the drivers side rack, used a crow bar to lift the rack straight up, this allowed me to put the control arm bolt straight in. I should have done this when I removed the bolt as I ripped the boot. Car has 290k miles.
yeah, like others have mentioned. this is for the last generation panther platforms. 2003-2011. Good video. other than the dialogue was low and the impact gun was screechingly loud.
Can this be done without removing the tie rods and steering rack? I don't have the money to replace tie rods and anything else that might need replaced, especially if something breaks lol
So many unnecessary steps here my goodness. You absolutely did not need to touch the rack at all. Our the steering shaft and you did that and didn't even warn anyone about the clockspring. If that moves at all the clock spring is screwed. Which could've been avoided because the rack and steering shaft didn't need to be touched at all. That bolt can slide right passed the boot.
definitely going to try this method when I go do mine tomorrow. I'm having to do it on jack stands and I really don't want to waste extra time dealing with removing a bunch of stuff I don't have to, and I especially don't want to touch the steering shaft if I don't have to. Also saves me having to by a longer extension.
@@CobraR1993 the bushings wear out bad too and unfortunately the front bushings are press in. It's a lot easier to just replace the whole arm rather than try and press out and in new bushings without a hydraulic press.
Easy to do, on my 07 I did this: (if doing at home jack up both sides of front end evenly important to make removing stabilizer links easier) Remove the caplier, and brake pads, remove the 2 bolts holding in the caplier bracket remove the rotor. Using a 15mm to hold the nut at top part of the stabilizer bar, then using a 7mm loosen the top and lower portion of the stabilizer link. (Removed now) loosen the upper ball joint, if it spins like the video use a locking pliers or jack up the lower control arm. Now, remove the 24mm bolt that holds the lower bolt on the shock. Remove the 3 bolts (do not remove center bolt or face some bodily harm or car damage) around the top of the shock. Push down on the shock and it should come out. now pull the 2 clip that hold the abs wire to the upper control arm, and finally remove that 2 bolts holding in the control arm. Should be a 2 hour job for a beginner
Installation I did this, install the 2 bolts for the upper control arm, reclip the abs wire clips to the arm. Then reinstall the 3 upper bolts for the shock. Reinstall the control arm balljoint (jack the lower control arm to put pressure on the ball joint so it doesn't spin) put the 24mm bolt for the bottom part of the shock back on. Reinstall the stabilizer links. If you have an issue jack up the other side a little higher until it aligns. Reinstall the rotor then caplier bracket , caplier and brake pads. If you need any of the torque specs for anything I can provide it.
If the boots ripped, replace it. If it's making noise, replace it. You can also have someone steer the wheel back and fourth and if you see play in the control arm mount points that means you gotta replace it.
√ *Watch the Video*
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What a beautiful job, the mechanic himself and the man behind the camera!... Absolutely priceless!
What an amazing world we live in, to have Master mechanics showing the rest of us how to do these things!
+Peter Danels Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Instead of unbolting the whole rack can you just remove the inner tie rods and would that be enough room to clear
That was a really great video. I have a 2003 Lincoln Town Car and my shop has told me that I need to replace my lower control arms. I trust them to tell me the truth and they have saved me money in the past. They have told me that this job is going to cost me $930 which is a lot but watching this I can see why. We live in an apartment and I don't have access to a lift and at 65 I don't have the inclination to use jack stands and go crawling around on my back attempting this job. The car's only worth about $3,500 on Craigslist but it's supremely reliable and hopefully this is it's only major cost this year. Thank you for the concise information.
I love this channel this guy showed me how to do everything to my crown vic thank you guys so much ik its old but to me its gold you guys also make me wanna be a mechanic i been working on my car since i was 19
Good video, but this only applies to 2003 and newer Crown Vic's and Grand Marquis's. 1998-2002 has stamped steel control arms and no rack and pinion.
Thanks I have a 2002 Grand Marquis to do this weekend lower control arm
Crown Vics** grand marquis** apostrophe “s” is for ownership not pluralization
03 and newer have stamped steel ones too. this vehicle has the standard suspension. Stamped steel is the heavy duty suspension. But you are right about the rack. 03 is when they got an entire front end upgrade.
All of them had stamped steel control arms its just the aftermarket ones on rock auto are cast
Congrats on one of the best how-to videos out there. Concise logical camera work, every detail explained, good lighting, freaking torque specs, this was like going to church, music to my ears. Was there a specific reason this P needed new lower control arms or you just wanted to show us how the pro's do it? Thanks!
+tinkie tinkie Thanks for watching! In this case our vehicle needed a new control arm because the bushing and ball joint were both worn out. Perfect opportunity to show you how to perform this repair!
Huge help, especially w the torque specs and the socket sizes. Thank you very much!
We just did this the other day before watching the video and we didn't take out the steering rack, simply loosen the two nuts to have the rack loose, then remove the rack boots at the big end, and you will have just enough room to take off the lower control arm bolts
i did this job just like he did but did not have to disconnect steering shaft/ i lifted the rack up with a crowbar and removed bolts and did the same installing them a tight fit but it came out perfect !!
awesome work, loved that you put the wheel nuts on by hand, not using a gun to put them on until after the nuts where on the studs
Really not looking forward to doing this on jack stands, but I think I've got it after watching this video. Thanks so much, fantastic as usual.
+ShumaiAxeman Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Well watch a few other videos first. Because you definitely don't need to remove the rack at all, or the sway bar or the steering shaft.
Can you post the video you mention? Looks like steering rack has to be pulled forward for the front controller bolt to slide out
@@KyrieEleisonMaranatha I think homeboy just likes using his impact gun cha-kno
Great vid. Just curious, do we really need to get the steering rack out of the way for this job?
seems excessive
You don't actually have to remove the steering column from the rack, since the steering column extends and retracts with the joints built in but you do have to remove the one bolt and stud on whichever side control arm you are replacing in order to slide the steering rack forward enough for bolt clearance.
I did my lower control arm about 5 months ago and I can't remember removing the sway bar, I don't think that's necessary either.
@@1995flyingspur was it difficult for you to remove the stud ? Did you use the method in the video (double nut) or did you just remove it with a socket.
You do not have to remove anything to do with the steering racc.... Simply turn the steering wheel, ta-dah!
No absolutely not. or the steering shaft or the sway bar none of that had to be removed. You turn the wheel and the bolt slides right passed the boot.
I’m literally at this point and could not figure out how to get the lower control arm bolt out without removing the rack and pinion. The rack and pinion just kept hitting on the oil filter housing. Great video Thanks! ! !
+mobig2ls Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
If you turn the wheel to the opposite side. The bolt slides right past the inner tie rod arm.
Is that 242 red thread locker ?
What was the purpose of dropping steering rack? Would there not be enough clearance to install bolts after backing out the nuts?
I must commend you for the content and instruction of this lower control arm replacement on a Crown Victoria. It is absolutely the best and most informative instructional video I have ever seen showing control arm replacement. Not only did you make it look easy, your narration of each and every step as you performed was great. The camera work was spot on, showing exactly what was required for each step of the way. I was totally impressed with this video and your knowledge from start to finish. Thank you! Now that brings up a question, I saw that the control arm you installed included the trailing arm bushing, it was loose in place but you tightened and torqued it up. On my car, the lower control arm bushings are fine as is the ball joint. Upon inspection, only my rear bushing is worn. Can just the trailing arm bushing assembly be replaced without replacing the complete the lower control arm? Thanks again for the great video and its content.
Got similar put on now passenger side is croaking at the big bushing.... Any advice appreciated.
Great video, does this fit a 2011 crown vic/ mercury/ Lincoln?
This is only applicable to the 03+ cars, 92-02 used a completely different style of front suspension.
You are absolutely correct.
Can you do a video on replacing the body mounts on same crown victoria
OEM Motorcraft lower control arms range from $200 to 600$ for one side.
You guys have great videos.
"Commence the Bonking"
That one caught me off guard. Using that from now on.
I have a 2000 crown Vic that has too much play in steering and it kinda snatches during left turns on the highway. It'll also clunks when I turn the wheel while sitting. Could the lower control arm be the culprit?
Holy cow all that work for a lower control arm?
Many thanks. Just did this on my 2004 in my driveway. I didn't remove the rack, but turned the wheel as someone else mentioned. I barely got the bolt out. I could not get it back in. It was drivers side, so I took out the long bolt of the drivers side rack, used a crow bar to lift the rack straight up, this allowed me to put the control arm bolt straight in. I should have done this when I removed the bolt as I ripped the boot. Car has 290k miles.
Good video, can't go wrong with mud tires on the front of a Crown Vic!... haha
They are winter snow tires. But it's okay I'll let it slide.
technical term "bonking"
yeah, like others have mentioned. this is for the last generation panther platforms. 2003-2011. Good video. other than the dialogue was low and the impact gun was screechingly loud.
Super excellent video👍
Can this be done without removing the tie rods and steering rack? I don't have the money to replace tie rods and anything else that might need replaced, especially if something breaks lol
Do you guys have a shop in Detroit?
That spindle looks like the hole has been oblonged?
" Torqued" 👍
So many unnecessary steps here my goodness. You absolutely did not need to touch the rack at all. Our the steering shaft and you did that and didn't even warn anyone about the clockspring. If that moves at all the clock spring is screwed. Which could've been avoided because the rack and steering shaft didn't need to be touched at all. That bolt can slide right passed the boot.
Music to my ears
definitely going to try this method when I go do mine tomorrow. I'm having to do it on jack stands and I really don't want to waste extra time dealing with removing a bunch of stuff I don't have to, and I especially don't want to touch the steering shaft if I don't have to. Also saves me having to by a longer extension.
You should do a video of this. I'm trying to get my Control Arm out now, and can't see any way other than to move the rack and pinion out of the way.
Why didn't you torque the hose bracket line? You torqued everything else...
My crown vic needs new control arms bad lol. Front end wiggles more than a semi on a windy day.
Could be your need new struts and shocks. These lower control arms are quite beefy and it's really just the ball joints that wear out.
@@CobraR1993 the bushings wear out bad too and unfortunately the front bushings are press in. It's a lot easier to just replace the whole arm rather than try and press out and in new bushings without a hydraulic press.
Why did you have to unloosen the Is rack pinion an the Sway bar . I don't see why you need to do it. I'm about to do my control arms again
Put some oil on the bolts before you reassemble it, that will make them easier to install.
So is threadlock required for any of the suspension bolts?
This should say 2003-2012, prior to that the steering and suspension was different and this video may not be applicable.
Why mess with the steering box?
Very well done video!
+Jerry A Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
yeah so 98-02 are pretty different
Please rename this video to 03-12 Crown Victorias. 98-02 is very different
99 crown victoria are much different the coil spring is held in by the lower control arm not by the strut
Great video, when will you replace the upper control arm?
I need help!!
Easy to do, on my 07 I did this: (if doing at home jack up both sides of front end evenly important to make removing stabilizer links easier)
Remove the caplier, and brake pads, remove the 2 bolts holding in the caplier bracket remove the rotor. Using a 15mm to hold the nut at top part of the stabilizer bar, then using a 7mm loosen the top and lower portion of the stabilizer link. (Removed now) loosen the upper ball joint, if it spins like the video use a locking pliers or jack up the lower control arm. Now, remove the 24mm bolt that holds the lower bolt on the shock. Remove the 3 bolts (do not remove center bolt or face some bodily harm or car damage) around the top of the shock. Push down on the shock and it should come out. now pull the 2 clip that hold the abs wire to the upper control arm, and finally remove that 2 bolts holding in the control arm. Should be a 2 hour job for a beginner
Installation I did this, install the 2 bolts for the upper control arm, reclip the abs wire clips to the arm. Then reinstall the 3 upper bolts for the shock. Reinstall the control arm balljoint (jack the lower control arm to put pressure on the ball joint so it doesn't spin) put the 24mm bolt for the bottom part of the shock back on. Reinstall the stabilizer links. If you have an issue jack up the other side a little higher until it aligns. Reinstall the rotor then caplier bracket , caplier and brake pads. If you need any of the torque specs for anything I can provide it.
What’s the average cost for this repair ?
+treeez_____ The average costs can range from $117 to $306.
TRQ very affordable thanks
Glad someone understands. in my area people think you should do this for $50. Lol. I have my own mechanic shop all they do is bitch about the price.
Very nice vid. 5 stars! Screw the complainers.
98-02 have a completely different frame, lower arm, knuckle, and steering system
If you get the front end kit that has new inner and outer tie rods, You should be able to do away with removing the rack.
Or simply turn the wheel....
You don't have to remove the rack or steering shaft regardless no matter what. This video is flat out stupid.
Gotta remove the tire from the verickle
yeth.
.
.
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?.. ... yeth
I have a 99 mercury grand marquis & it looks totally different from what ur working on.
2003 they changed front end design
There’s got be a better way that’s a lot more work then I think should be necessary to replace a lower control arm
Solid
Wonder how angry mechanics in the old days would be seeing how easy we have it with impact wrenches now lol.
Not to mad.. it's called a breaker bar lol
Very detailed. Excellent video. Do you have a good rule of thumb in judging the bushings and ball joint?
If the boots ripped, replace it. If it's making noise, replace it. You can also have someone steer the wheel back and fourth and if you see play in the control arm mount points that means you gotta replace it.
Damn all this for a control arm?
Bonk
Torqued?? You mean 7 uga dugas...
Wow u Are super micanik
you mean 2003-2011
I would try this, but I don’t have a lift lol. There’s no way I’m able to do this on my back.
Lol there is no 2012