I've done several of these intakes on this car and other 2v Ford engines. Thank you for the video, but a few things to make life easier. 1. Unloosen the EGR nut and tube from throttle body. There is no need to remove this from the exhaust manifold unless you're going to replace it. The intake manifold can easily be removed and replaced with this tube in place. 2. There is no need to remove the throttle position sensor from the throttle body. Remove the throttle body first and there is no need to remove it. 3. Then remove that steel bracket on the rear driver side after throttle body removal. Makes getting to that back bolt much easier. 4. Once the intake was removed and your mating surfaces are cleaned, replace those spark plugs. Doing all that work and leaving old spark plugs down in there isnt advisable. Coolant that leaked from the old intake typically makes it way down into those spark plug holes and corrodes the spark plugs. 5. Place the coil packs onto the intake manifold before putting the fuel rail in place. I saw you replaced them at the end of your video with red ones for whatever reason. Using dielectric grease where they meet the spark plugs and around the top of the plug boots can keep water from seaping down in the future. Minor gripes, but we all have our own ways I guess. Thanks for the video tutorial for others to watch. It helps more than you know.
Thanks for these recommendations - I was worried about the ability to get that lower EGR tube nut loose, and also that rear bracket nut on the driver's side! I'll add one more 'to do' while ripping into the top of the engine - replace the valve cover gaskets if it looks necessary or the mileage tells you to!
I’m in need of help had a few questions 1. Should I replace any of these parts other than the spark plugs and coils which I am gonna replace anyway 2. I think you answered this one do I need to touch the egr hose? It seems like a lot for me to do at home 3. There is a temp sensor on the motor I didn’t see it on the vid is that the sensor that controls the temp needle because this is the reason I’m doing this in the 1st place my temp gauge isn’t working and fan not cutting on 3. My Vic has the throttle cable I didn’t see that here any pointers Any help is appreciated thanks in advance
Very good video. However, some minor criticisms: 1. The lower EGR tube heating and removal (as shown in the video) is really unnecessary and possibly dangerous. 2. The top radiator hose can remain on the elbow going to the intake manifold, without risking damage to the rubber hose. 3. A radiator flush might be worth doing before re-filling with fresh coolant. Run with only distilled water and the radiator flush chemicals for maybe 50 or 100 miles of driving, without the thermostat installed (for better circulation) for that short time period. The plastic overflow tank can also be removed and manually flushed out with hot water, shaken to dislodge the crud, and re-rinsed several times for best cleaning effect.
Thank you R.Vail, I did not want to remove that lower EGR connection! It looks like I can get the intake off without moving the EGR tube much, but I wonder if it can be gently pushed back, maybe tied back a few inches without breaking it. Maybe it isn't necessary to move it at all, not sure? I don't want to break it
After watching all these crown vic repair video's including the door module(for ac) I feel more confident to do more repairs and upgrades on my 2011 vic.
The first time I did it, it took me 10 hours but I took my time to make it right. I drove that car another 50k miles and sold it for more than I paid for it.
You guys are legends for making these videos, flawlessly made how-to and easy to follow along, without these videos I'd probably wouldn't feel as confident tackling this repair. Stoked I have resources like this out there for me to follow along and save myself a buncha money.
I would like to say Thank you for your help this video really showed me everything clear and simple as this was my first time doing this alone! Thank you ❤️
I have an.06 Mercury GMarq with 227K. I replaced my intake manifold with this product.and the install went fine following this video as well as the A1 auto video. I had some pitting in the head surface from leaking fluids, so I used some RTV on those areas of the heads as well. This is my second replacement IM for this car - the previous IM was a Dorman, which was fine but lacked power. My guess is is that this product more closely resembles the OEM manifold - easily have about 20% or more power compared to the dorman IM - definitely use this one! At the same time, since I was this deep into the engine - replaced the valve cover gaskets (bad leak), spark plugs (Spark plugs wells were all cruded up with oil and anti-freeze from the leaking manifold), AND, REPLACED THE O-RINGS ON THE FUEL INJECTORS. Thanks for the instruction videos and good quality. Definitely recommend!
very informative, i'll for sure need this as a guide line in the future, i'm sure i'll have to replace my intake on my 08 vic, its got 213,000 miles and it looks like its the original intake
Excellent video hands down! Quick question though...did I miss a step with the replacement and upgrade to MSD coils (red tops)? 😎 Again...excellent vid....one of the best on RUclips.
Finished here in Pretoria Gauteng South Africa in 4h50m 😁🇿🇦 We replaced the powercoils(?) aswell with TRQ redtops and in 4 years this will be my car 😁 2004 P 71 ex Saudi police 188 000km 👌🏻 Thanks for the video **Edit** this manifold when installed blocks the sparkplug holes on the passenger side! Anyone else find this problem? ALSO please replace the sparkplugs BEFORE fitting the manifold and maybe the TRQ coils aswell. Misfires were happening after our install and the coils fixed this problem 🇿🇦
You do not need to turn off your inertia switch because you're already disconnecting the battery. You don't need to remove the entire EGR tube, that is a whole bunch of extra work for no reason. You also dont need to completely remove the serpentine belt, just remove it from the alternator. I've done a million of these and while this is a great video, many steps are unnecessary.
I'm on the downhill slide of this project with a 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, it's a little different but that's okay. I appreciate the fact that this is business, no "funky" musick in the backround, I do not like when there is. Thank you. In this car, '97 Mercury, there were 2 sensors that went in to the metal part in front, the temperature sensor, I guess, and another so the holes on both sides were filled. The first torque on mine called for 15 rather than 18 according to the Chilton manual. Also the Dorman part that I bought had numbers corresponding to each bolt hole to give the tightening sequence. I found that very handy. :-) Also rather than the individual coil packs mine has the coil packs at the front of the engine that hold 4 plug wires each, like my Buick and Oldsmobubble, I like those. I didn't have to be concerned at all with the screws nor plastic of the new part.
I'm 64 and in poor health, heart condition, diabetes, C. O. P. D, arthritis in my hands. I'm doing this intake on an 08 Crown Vic ex- highway patrol car from S. C. The biggest PITA I've seen while doing this job is the bolt on the back of the driveway side head that holt that bracket!
First time doing it on my Mustang GT and it took me around 5 hours non stop ! Only thing that i didnt think about was getting a tork wrench so I had to take a half an hour to go get one at my brother in law ! So we could say it took me around 4 hours and a half.
Would I be able to get a full list of replacement parts in this video? Have to replace the manifold on my '11 Vic PI and don't want to forget to buy a specific part. Thank you
Great job explaining things. The injector seal lubricant? I reckon its silicone spray. Rubber seals, door / trunk seals , cables, etc , all things rubber best friend !.
I watched this video after I removed my intake on my 08 P71. Lol At least I can better appreciate what you are doing (other than removing lower EGR nut). My inertia switch in the trunk is different than yours. Mine doesn't have a slot to pop the red button up with so I removed my fuse for the pump. I wonder if that is just a police version thing? P71.
I noticed your video upload date is very recent. Does this manifold you've produced contain any revisions/updates that fix the pattern failure problem areas (crossover area, return heater hose, brass inserts) ? Just curious as a "bullet proof'd" unit to replace a known pattern failure would be doubly worth the purchase knowing I'm not buying a replacement that may ultimately fail in the same manner
Good time to change the water pump. I wish I had changed mine when I did my intake. '00 grand marquis LS with 125k in Feb 2020 when mine cracked. I'm at 161k today and she runs and drives great
2007 town car- be prepared to remove wiper arms (take off nut and rock up and down on arm and eventually it will pop off). Might need some penetrating oil. Then you have to remove the upper cowling (black plastic) it’s two pieces. There is one screw on either far corners and some clips on the front edge. Then you have to pop out the tabs on the windshield side to move it out of the way. Then there are some bolts and screws on the under cowling which is metal. Then pull that out. Then you can fully access the manifold. (Now I see why no one would want to change out a cabin filter). Lots of debris in the under cowling.
This whole job comes down to 1 bolt....the one on the back of the heat shield on the right side as your facing the engine.....that is what you should have shown...you simply put your hand back there and pulled out a bolt that I'm sure was already unscrewed for you....come on man show us HOW you got to that bolt.......
Greetings, As the passenger side electrical connections are removed you also removed a wire connecting to a fuel rail bolt that is replaced with a screw at 5 min 10 seconds into the video. What is to be done with the connector? It has no place to connect after the original screw was replaced with a special thread screw going into the plastic manifold. Please reply. Thx. Super video instructions!
My '06 Grand Marquis has 225K miles on it, and has about 50K on a plastic replacement intake manifold - my manifold gaskets are leaking - is it ok to reuse the plastic manifold - or am I better off just replace the manifold & gaskets at the same time?
I just unscrewed it from the throttle body and it only got in the way when i had to remove the intake manifold, but, that bolt refused to budge with PB blaster, so just took out the 2 10mm bolts and it was much easier to take those out.
No it isnt. I cant stand that he put that in the video. I did my 97 Towncar and it was way easier then what he did. I think I disconnected the top egr tube? Its been almost three years and no problems.
What's the purpose of that bracket with a long bolt? The bolt behind the engine is so difficult to get to. I need to remove this bracket to get to the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. Is it absolutely necessary to put this bracket back on ? What happens if I delete it? Please someone tell me the purpose of this bracket and do I really need to reinstall it?
Do you have a video on just changing the injectors? Or do I really need to take the throttle body off not really a mechanic trying to do it myself and save some coins. I have a 2007 grand marquis gs
Thanks the video is great, I'm going to just change my fuel injectors spark plugs and coils I was told to coat the new injector o rings with some motor oil so they don't rip or is the Cleaner better .
I did this and car won't crank now it's making a locked sound like something stopping it from cranking and gas coming out the back of engine...I'm assuming it's not flush but would that alone stop it from cranking?
So I replaced the intake manifold a little while back. Now I’m getting a misfire on cylinder 7. To try and narrow down the problem I removed the cop off of 7 and replaced it with the one from 2. Still getting a misfire on 7 so I know it’s not the cop. Now I’m suspecting it’s a spark plug. Unfortunately the intake manifold I got from TRQ overhangs the spark plug holes by a bit and I can’t get a 5/8ths spark plug socket down the hole. Any recommendations
This video is fantastic. I am looking for a Crown Vic. or a Grand Marquis. What is with that big 'ol insulator on the bottom of the original intake? You didn't use it but would it be worth it in any way to get a new one?
It's prevents the air coming into the intake from getting too hot. It isolates the heat from the engine from soaking into the intake. I'm sure there would be a slight decrease in horsepower without having it.
It's a sound damper used on 2003 and newer that have a knock sensor dead center in the valley, insulates it from intake sounds so ignition is not retarded by those false readings.
@@VaporheadATC .... It might do that too, but 2003 was the firsty year for the insulator the same time the knock sensor was added. Prior years did NOT have it.
Taking the bracket off to the rear of the throttle body...another failed Video taking a short cut. I am trying to remove this part from a 2000 Lincoln Town car and spent over an hour getting to the "nut" between the firewall and engine that is a 13 mm nut. There is a plate or something on top of that hiding the 15mm stud. It appears that plate has an additional 13 mm nut or bolt securing it that also isn't described....arghhh
by the way folks..... when he said he poured out half of the coolant concentrate and added water, I AM GOING TO MENTION... THE WATER MUST BE DISTILLED WATER... NOT TAP OR SPRING WATER ETC.... DISTILLED WATER ONLY... the other waters have minerals that can ruin coolant system components and cause rust internally...
Can't I remove the O'ring gaskets and replace them with flat solid gasket sets? They should all line up and fit the same right? I just don't trust the flimsy Orings inside the manifolds!! seems better to have a complete gasket across the whole head.
I'm in a pickle. Installed the intake manifold and right before torquing the bolts my heat lamp bulb exploded into hundreds of pieces. I'm concerned some glass got in the combustion chamber through the fuel injector holes. I'm guessing a piece of glass in top of a piston would be catastrophic. Any tips? I'm not pulling the head, that's way beyond my skill level
Believe it or not got it off without taking the egr valve off from the converter was able to change the gaskets. Everything is literally done up top like he's doing it
This was extremely useful except for glossing over removing the rear bolt of the driver side crash bracket. It is the single most difficult part of the entire job and you skipped it. That was just hateful. I'm assuming that you had to take an hour or more working it out or you have a simple procedure that you could have shared. Other than that idiocy, the job was well explained and I did appreciate it. I had no intention of using a cheap knockoff part though and purchased the factory intake. I have 3 panthers so I'm starting my own parts depot. lol
I just got done doing this and I am pulling my hair out, I have a vacuum leak that I can not for the life of me find, only thing I done different is pull the throttle body off the upper intake, I am think throttle body gasket, because the leak goes away as I get on the throttle and comes back as I get off.
Great video other than the unnecessary removal of the EGR tube. It's too bad 1A Auto seems to care more about their PR image than the quality of their parts. This TRQ manifold developed a massive coolant leak at the aluminum crossover after just a few months of use.
i changed the spark plugs the spark plug wires the ignition coils the intake manifold and the car is still shaking so i went to a mechanic and he did a leak down test and a compression test. then he said two of the cylinders have low compression and that's what's causing the car to shake, so he said i have to do a head job. i did a head job already on this car back in 2014 and it's 2021 so 7 years and i have to do another one
also when it comes to the bleeding of the coolant system, I don't understand why they used such an elaborate method, not everyone has that tool... for the unsophisticated masses like myself, you want to fill the reservoir up to the cold mark, cap off..... and run the car at idle with the heater turned all the way up at full blast,( i recommend lowering your windows) and let the car idle or you can hold the throttle open til it gets fully hot (operational temp) and let the reservoir burp out all of the bubbles, let it idle for like 15 -20 min once at operating temp and then you should be good, check to make sure the coolant gauge is at the right spot (midway) , if so , turn off the car and put the cap on the reservoir, check for leaks and that's about it.. drive it for a week and keep your eye on the gauge incase anything looks funky.. if it's ok it's safe to say you did it right...
Not bad, but it would be helpful if you named some of the components as you disconnect them, instead of just calling the throttle position sensor, this thing.
Stay away from Dorman intakes y'all. The doorman intake is not Oe. 99 lincoln town car, to the left of the alternator that would be passenger side there are two screw holes that appear to be in place, they are not. The holes don't go through the intake so that you can attach that front left side to your engine, and it's too thin to drill. Regardless how we did it we could not get it to stop leaking. Going to Ford tomorrow and buying some high dollar Ford parts to get real Oe. The difference is a slow leak at idle that gets worse at about 1500 rpm, took it all apart twice to double-check and make sure that the job had been done correctly, it was done right, in this scenario Dorman is trash.
The intake manifold you've used in this video is the same one for the 04 Explorer 4.6L. My heater core inlet doesn't run from the passenger side rear of the intake manifold as the crown vic depicted does. Do you know of any possible way to tie that port into the existing heater core inlet on the explorer?
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Just out of curiosity how much would this repair cost just the labor
I've done several of these intakes on this car and other 2v Ford engines. Thank you for the video, but a few things to make life easier.
1. Unloosen the EGR nut and tube from throttle body. There is no need to remove this from the exhaust manifold unless you're going to replace it. The intake manifold can easily be removed and replaced with this tube in place.
2. There is no need to remove the throttle position sensor from the throttle body. Remove the throttle body first and there is no need to remove it.
3. Then remove that steel bracket on the rear driver side after throttle body removal. Makes getting to that back bolt much easier.
4. Once the intake was removed and your mating surfaces are cleaned, replace those spark plugs. Doing all that work and leaving old spark plugs down in there isnt advisable. Coolant that leaked from the old intake typically makes it way down into those spark plug holes and corrodes the spark plugs.
5. Place the coil packs onto the intake manifold before putting the fuel rail in place. I saw you replaced them at the end of your video with red ones for whatever reason. Using dielectric grease where they meet the spark plugs and around the top of the plug boots can keep water from seaping down in the future.
Minor gripes, but we all have our own ways I guess. Thanks for the video tutorial for others to watch. It helps more than you know.
+JPM788212 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thanks for the info! I got concerned when he went under the car to heat up the egr... Now I know im good to do without having to access under the car!
Thanks for these recommendations - I was worried about the ability to get that lower EGR tube nut loose, and also that rear bracket nut on the driver's side! I'll add one more 'to do' while ripping into the top of the engine - replace the valve cover gaskets if it looks necessary or the mileage tells you to!
Can this process work with the upgraded ford performance intake manifold made for mustangs?
I’m in need of help had a few questions
1. Should I replace any of these parts other than the spark plugs and coils which I am gonna replace anyway
2. I think you answered this one do I need to touch the egr hose? It seems like a lot for me to do at home
3. There is a temp sensor on the motor I didn’t see it on the vid is that the sensor that controls the temp needle because this is the reason I’m doing this in the 1st place my temp gauge isn’t working and fan not cutting on
3. My Vic has the throttle cable I didn’t see that here any pointers
Any help is appreciated thanks in advance
Very good video.
However, some minor criticisms:
1. The lower EGR tube heating and removal (as shown in the video) is really unnecessary and possibly dangerous.
2. The top radiator hose can remain on the elbow going to the intake manifold, without risking damage to the rubber hose.
3. A radiator flush might be worth doing before re-filling with fresh coolant. Run with only distilled water and the radiator flush chemicals for maybe 50 or 100 miles of driving, without the thermostat installed (for better circulation) for that short time period. The plastic overflow tank can also be removed and manually flushed out with hot water, shaken to dislodge the crud, and re-rinsed several times for best cleaning effect.
@jefferey johnson that's what I did too. The EGR tube flange is such a bastard to loosen.
Can this process work with the upgraded ford performance intake manifold made for mustangs?
This just saved me alot of time thank you cuz i didnt want to go underneath honestly
Who is this? You are awesome
Thank you R.Vail, I did not want to remove that lower EGR connection! It looks like I can get the intake off without moving the EGR tube much, but I wonder if it can be gently pushed back, maybe tied back a few inches without breaking it. Maybe it isn't necessary to move it at all, not sure? I don't want to break it
After watching all these crown vic repair video's including the door module(for ac) I feel more confident to do more repairs and upgrades on my 2011 vic.
video: about 45min, so it will take me a solid 8h, and some back pain pills :)
The first time I did it, it took me 10 hours but I took my time to make it right. I drove that car another 50k miles and sold it for more than I paid for it.
Felt that one in my lower back almost done w this sht
The 500s or 750s...I like the yellow ones 1000
You guys are legends for making these videos, flawlessly made how-to and easy to follow along, without these videos I'd probably wouldn't feel as confident tackling this repair. Stoked I have resources like this out there for me to follow along and save myself a buncha money.
Have to compliment you on your skills, and precise explanation or the process. It's a pleasure to watch you in action.
He keeps saying "Vericle" lol. YOu did a great job though. I changed mine on my 2010 watching this. Thank you for the video really good
Thank you for this one! Saved me a bunch of money. I love how it's step by step and explained clearly. You guys rock!
I would like to say Thank you for your help this video really showed me everything clear and simple as this was my first time doing this alone! Thank you ❤️
I have an.06 Mercury GMarq with 227K. I replaced my intake manifold with this product.and the install went fine following this video as well as the A1 auto video. I had some pitting in the head surface from leaking fluids, so I used some RTV on those areas of the heads as well. This is my second replacement IM for this car - the previous IM was a Dorman, which was fine but lacked power. My guess is is that this product more closely resembles the OEM manifold - easily have about 20% or more power compared to the dorman IM - definitely use this one! At the same time, since I was this deep into the engine - replaced the valve cover gaskets (bad leak), spark plugs (Spark plugs wells were all cruded up with oil and anti-freeze from the leaking manifold), AND, REPLACED THE O-RINGS ON THE FUEL INJECTORS. Thanks for the instruction videos and good quality. Definitely recommend!
+scales57 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This is probably a dorman intake manifold.
احسنت صنعاً يا صديقي 👌🏼
very informative, i'll for sure need this as a guide line in the future, i'm sure i'll have to replace my intake on my 08 vic, its got 213,000 miles and it looks like its the original intake
man you have the best how to videos on youtube
I really appreciate your video. It is one of the most instructive videos I have ever seen! Thanks
I agree with some of the comments to make things easier, but this is a awesome video!!
This video was a major help and I appreciate all the videos you guys make
Excellent video hands down!
Quick question though...did I miss a step with the replacement and upgrade to MSD coils (red tops)? 😎
Again...excellent vid....one of the best on RUclips.
Perfect teacher , i will change my intake now....Thanks for the video...
Finished here in Pretoria Gauteng South Africa in 4h50m 😁🇿🇦 We replaced the powercoils(?) aswell with TRQ redtops and in 4 years this will be my car 😁 2004 P 71 ex Saudi police 188 000km 👌🏻 Thanks for the video
**Edit** this manifold when installed blocks the sparkplug holes on the passenger side! Anyone else find this problem? ALSO please replace the sparkplugs BEFORE fitting the manifold and maybe the TRQ coils aswell. Misfires were happening after our install and the coils fixed this problem 🇿🇦
I binge watched this great video. Im definitely getting my lincoln town car or crown vic or expedition now
You do not need to turn off your inertia switch because you're already disconnecting the battery. You don't need to remove the entire EGR tube, that is a whole bunch of extra work for no reason. You also dont need to completely remove the serpentine belt, just remove it from the alternator. I've done a million of these and while this is a great video, many steps are unnecessary.
I'm on the downhill slide of this project with a 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, it's a little different but that's okay.
I appreciate the fact that this is business, no "funky" musick in the backround, I do not like when there is. Thank you.
In this car, '97 Mercury, there were 2 sensors that went in to the metal part in front, the temperature sensor, I guess, and another so the holes on both sides were filled.
The first torque on mine called for 15 rather than 18 according to the Chilton manual. Also the Dorman part that I bought had numbers corresponding to each bolt hole to give the tightening sequence. I found that very handy. :-)
Also rather than the individual coil packs mine has the coil packs at the front of the engine that hold 4 plug wires each, like my Buick and Oldsmobubble, I like those. I didn't have to be concerned at all with the screws nor plastic of the new part.
Egr pipe broke on me had to buy a new one other than that easy job especially with this videos help
+@maximusbad.4088 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Me sirvió mucho tu video y muy bien explicado maestro
Well, watched enough to determine to let a shop do this, my old 65+ year old back won't hang anymore 😂😂😢😢
+Numa Newbern Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Even at 28 it makes my back ache leaning over it for an hour and a half 🤣
I'm 64 and in poor health, heart condition, diabetes, C. O. P. D, arthritis in my hands. I'm doing this intake on an 08 Crown Vic ex- highway patrol car from S. C. The biggest PITA I've seen while doing this job is the bolt on the back of the driveway side head that holt that bracket!
🤣 I’m 36 and replacing mine now on 04 town car and my back is killing me 😖, but I’m too cheap to let the shop do it for me lol
First time doing it on my Mustang GT and it took me around 5 hours non stop ! Only thing that i didnt think about was getting a tork wrench so I had to take a half an hour to go get one at my brother in law ! So we could say it took me around 4 hours and a half.
Would I be able to get a full list of replacement parts in this video? Have to replace the manifold on my '11 Vic PI and don't want to forget to buy a specific part. Thank you
Great job explaining things. The injector seal lubricant? I reckon its silicone spray. Rubber seals, door / trunk seals , cables, etc , all things rubber best friend !.
I watched this video after I removed my intake on my 08 P71. Lol At least I can better appreciate what you are doing (other than removing lower EGR nut). My inertia switch in the trunk is different than yours. Mine doesn't have a slot to pop the red button up with so I removed my fuse for the pump. I wonder if that is just a police version thing? P71.
I noticed the same thing on my 09 P71. I unplugged the inertia switch and it had the same effect.
My 07 town car has the slot for red button. The pipe turned with the lower egr nut and broke it for me. fun stuff
What is the plug called at 29:27? I am missing that plug and noone seems to know the name of it
You only need to disconnect the top of the egr tube and you can just flip the fuel rail out of the way if you don’t have the tool.
I noticed your video upload date is very recent. Does this manifold you've produced contain any revisions/updates that fix the pattern failure problem areas (crossover area, return heater hose, brass inserts) ?
Just curious as a "bullet proof'd" unit to replace a known pattern failure would be doubly worth the purchase knowing I'm not buying a replacement that may ultimately fail in the same manner
Am I able to replace just the gasket? Or do you have to replace the whole top part? Any help would be welcome!
It reality how long did this job actually take? Curious what I’m in for!
Can this process work with the upgraded ford performance intake manifold made for mustangs?
Awesome job… mine needs replacing because of coolant leaking into #1 spark plug well. What’s the name of tool you used to remove fuel line… 5/8 …?
Good time to change the water pump. I wish I had changed mine when I did my intake. '00 grand marquis LS with 125k in Feb 2020 when mine cracked. I'm at 161k today and she runs and drives great
+Troy Senarighi Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
is this part and procedure the same as an 05 grande marquis gs
How long did it really take to remove that driver side bracket to get to the fuel rail?
2007 town car- be prepared to remove wiper arms (take off nut and rock up and down on arm and eventually it will pop off). Might need some penetrating oil. Then you have to remove the upper cowling (black plastic) it’s two pieces. There is one screw on either far corners and some clips on the front edge. Then you have to pop out the tabs on the windshield side to move it out of the way. Then there are some bolts and screws on the under cowling which is metal. Then pull that out. Then you can fully access the manifold. (Now I see why no one would want to change out a cabin filter). Lots of debris in the under cowling.
This whole job comes down to 1 bolt....the one on the back of the heat shield on the right side as your facing the engine.....that is what you should have shown...you simply put your hand back there and pulled out a bolt that I'm sure was already unscrewed for you....come on man show us HOW you got to that bolt.......
When I seen the acetylene torch come out I knew something didn't seem right lol 😂
Greetings,
As the passenger side electrical connections are removed you also removed a wire connecting to a fuel rail bolt that is replaced with a screw at 5 min 10 seconds into the video. What is to be done with the connector? It has no place to connect after the original screw was replaced with a special thread screw going into the plastic manifold. Please reply. Thx. Super video instructions!
Are these the Dorman intakes that reduce horsepower by 15 or so from OEM Ford intakes?
My '06 Grand Marquis has 225K miles on it, and has about 50K on a plastic replacement intake manifold - my manifold gaskets are leaking - is it ok to reuse the plastic manifold - or am I better off just replace the manifold & gaskets at the same time?
Is there a way to do it without removing the erg tube from the exhaust?
Yes completely unnecessary just work around it
@@damionmonaghan3139 well that's just fantastic cause mine just broke when undoing the botton one. Great
what’s the lil white circle tool called??
Is it mandatory to take off the EGR tube... Why can't you just unscrew it from the top and leave the other end in the exhaust
I just unscrewed it from the throttle body and it only got in the way when i had to remove the intake manifold, but, that bolt refused to budge with PB blaster, so just took out the 2 10mm bolts and it was much easier to take those out.
I do not believe it is mandatory. I saw another guy online and he left it in place. Disconnect it from the EGR and leave it alone.
You can just unscrew it up top
No it isnt. I cant stand that he put that in the video. I did my 97 Towncar and it was way easier then what he did. I think I disconnected the top egr tube? Its been almost three years and no problems.
Does anyone know the name of the hose thats attached to the fuel rail? @6:20
What's the purpose of that bracket with a long bolt? The bolt behind the engine is so difficult to get to.
I need to remove this bracket to get to the fuel rail and the fuel injectors.
Is it absolutely necessary to put this bracket back on ? What happens if I delete it?
Please someone tell me the purpose of this bracket and do I really need to reinstall it?
Do you have a video on just changing the injectors? Or do I really need to take the throttle body off not really a mechanic trying to do it myself and save some coins. I have a 2007 grand marquis gs
where was your fuel rail crash bracket?
Thanks the video is great, I'm going to just change my fuel injectors spark plugs and coils I was told to coat the new injector o rings with some motor oil so they don't rip or is the Cleaner better .
+Canadian kid Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
i dont understand why we have to remove the egr tube from the exhaust where the o2 sensor is located?
What is the wire at 5:10? My 2011 CVPI doesn't have one in that location. Also, what is the name of the white tool at 6:48?
+Spencer Hooper Thanks for watching! The tool that is used is a fuel line quick disconnect tool.
I did this and car won't crank now it's making a locked sound like something stopping it from cranking and gas coming out the back of engine...I'm assuming it's not flush but would that alone stop it from cranking?
What name Brand is intake manifold as well as parts number as I don't know if I can order this to canada
it does,i just got my 2nd from 1a Auto,,had to pay 45$ for border fees but it came to around 250$ canadien
I can already tell this is going to be a pain in the ass with regular wrenches and ratchets
Also do you recommend a metal or plastic blade to scrape off. Excess gasket material
So I replaced the intake manifold a little while back. Now I’m getting a misfire on cylinder 7. To try and narrow down the problem I removed the cop off of 7 and replaced it with the one from 2. Still getting a misfire on 7 so I know it’s not the cop. Now I’m suspecting it’s a spark plug. Unfortunately the intake manifold I got from TRQ overhangs the spark plug holes by a bit and I can’t get a 5/8ths spark plug socket down the hole. Any recommendations
What about that pitting around the coolant inlets?
Does it need the insulator
i imagine so, otherwise the heat from the engine may cause the new plastic manifold to become brittle down the road
What was the name of tool to pressurize the coolant system
thanks great video everything went well thank God I did not have to remove that darn EGR tube that would have been a pain in the you know what LOL.
Is it really necessary to take off the EGR tube??
No i did it without
Definitely not
Excellent job!
Do you have to remove the egr hose?
This video is fantastic.
I am looking for a Crown Vic. or a Grand Marquis.
What is with that big 'ol insulator on the bottom of the original intake? You didn't use it but would it be worth it in any way to get a new one?
It's prevents the air coming into the intake from getting too hot. It isolates the heat from the engine from soaking into the intake. I'm sure there would be a slight decrease in horsepower without having it.
It’s sound dampening
It's a sound damper used on 2003 and newer that have a knock sensor dead center in the valley, insulates it from intake sounds so ignition is not retarded by those false readings.
@@VaporheadATC .... It might do that too, but 2003 was the firsty year for the insulator the same time the knock sensor was added. Prior years did NOT have it.
@@bryandowling8524 ... yes
Will the TRQ intake last as long as an oem intake? Does it come with all gaskets needed?
Great video man
Is there another engine coolant temperature sensor under the intake
Sure is head temp sensor driver side head.
Does anyone know if the plastic piece in the back bottom of the engine valley is important to replace if it breaks
Now I need you to fix my intake 02 interceptor
Taking the bracket off to the rear of the throttle body...another failed Video taking a short cut. I am trying to remove this part from a 2000 Lincoln Town car and spent over an hour getting to the "nut" between the firewall and engine that is a 13 mm nut. There is a plate or something on top of that hiding the 15mm stud. It appears that plate has an additional 13 mm nut or bolt securing it that also isn't described....arghhh
i had to cut the fuel line because of this heat shield bracket to remove the injectors. Wasted a lot of time on this bracket. Good luck.
by the way folks..... when he said he poured out half of the coolant concentrate and added water, I AM GOING TO MENTION... THE WATER MUST BE DISTILLED WATER... NOT TAP OR SPRING WATER ETC.... DISTILLED WATER ONLY... the other waters have minerals that can ruin coolant system components and cause rust internally...
Yo I didn’t depressurize my fuel system before I took off my fuel rails is that bad?
What if your coolant sensor is not in those spot my intake doesn't have those holes there
Can't I remove the O'ring gaskets and replace them with flat solid gasket sets? They should all line up and fit the same right? I just don't trust the flimsy Orings inside the manifolds!! seems better to have a complete gasket across the whole head.
exceptional! 🫨
I'm in a pickle. Installed the intake manifold and right before torquing the bolts my heat lamp bulb exploded into hundreds of pieces. I'm concerned some glass got in the combustion chamber through the fuel injector holes. I'm guessing a piece of glass in top of a piston would be catastrophic. Any tips? I'm not pulling the head, that's way beyond my skill level
Believe it or not got it off without taking the egr valve off from the converter was able to change the gaskets. Everything is literally done up top like he's doing it
Where are trq manifolds made?
This was extremely useful except for glossing over removing the rear bolt of the driver side crash bracket. It is the single most difficult part of the entire job and you skipped it. That was just hateful. I'm assuming that you had to take an hour or more working it out or you have a simple procedure that you could have shared. Other than that idiocy, the job was well explained and I did appreciate it. I had no intention of using a cheap knockoff part though and purchased the factory intake. I have 3 panthers so I'm starting my own parts depot. lol
I just got done doing this and I am pulling my hair out, I have a vacuum leak that I can not for the life of me find, only thing I done different is pull the throttle body off the upper intake, I am think throttle body gasket, because the leak goes away as I get on the throttle and comes back as I get off.
Great video other than the unnecessary removal of the EGR tube.
It's too bad 1A Auto seems to care more about their PR image than the quality of their parts. This TRQ manifold developed a massive coolant leak at the aluminum crossover after just a few months of use.
Best to use Dorman for the slight cost increase.
i changed the spark plugs the spark plug wires the ignition coils the intake manifold and the car is still shaking so i went to a mechanic and he did a leak down test and a compression test. then he said two of the cylinders have low compression and that's what's causing the car to shake, so he said i have to do a head job. i did a head job already on this car back in 2014 and it's 2021 so 7 years and i have to do another one
+Demorrieus Powell Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thanks bro
The 02 doesn’t have electric throttle it’s cable
I don't have a coolant temp sensor on the top of the manifold..
does anyone else have this going on??
if so
what was your end result??
27mm works to take of top of egr
also when it comes to the bleeding of the coolant system, I don't understand why they used such an elaborate method, not everyone has that tool... for the unsophisticated masses like myself, you want to fill the reservoir up to the cold mark, cap off..... and run the car at idle with the heater turned all the way up at full blast,( i recommend lowering your windows) and let the car idle or you can hold the throttle open til it gets fully hot (operational temp) and let the reservoir burp out all of the bubbles, let it idle for like 15 -20 min once at operating temp and then you should be good, check to make sure the coolant gauge is at the right spot (midway) , if so , turn off the car and put the cap on the reservoir, check for leaks and that's about it.. drive it for a week and keep your eye on the gauge incase anything looks funky.. if it's ok it's safe to say you did it right...
This guy is way too excited for this job
Not bad, but it would be helpful if you named some of the components as you disconnect them, instead of just calling the throttle position sensor, this thing.
11:19 melted the o2 sensor wire
Stay away from Dorman intakes y'all. The doorman intake is not Oe. 99 lincoln town car, to the left of the alternator that would be passenger side there are two screw holes that appear to be in place, they are not. The holes don't go through the intake so that you can attach that front left side to your engine, and it's too thin to drill. Regardless how we did it we could not get it to stop leaking. Going to Ford tomorrow and buying some high dollar Ford parts to get real Oe. The difference is a slow leak at idle that gets worse at about 1500 rpm, took it all apart twice to double-check and make sure that the job had been done correctly, it was done right, in this scenario Dorman is trash.
I liked everything except i was disappointed no air compressor for final touch! I'm sure as a "pro" you have you reasons though lol...
Not a big deal but the Crown Vic model ended with the last one out the door in 2011 not 2012.
Oh hey a 2005 crown vic, the only year that has that specific intake tube
The intake manifold you've used in this video is the same one for the 04 Explorer 4.6L. My heater core inlet doesn't run from the passenger side rear of the intake manifold as the crown vic depicted does. Do you know of any possible way to tie that port into the existing heater core inlet on the explorer?
Man 😂🤦🏾♂️There was no need to take the egr pipe off the exhaust manifold could’ve took the two screws out that holds on to the throttle body