4 Wire, 5 Wire Honeywell Zone Valve Wiring, Troubleshooting, Dismantling
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- In this HVACR Training Video, I Show the Wiring, Operation, Troubleshooting, and Dismantling of Honeywell 4 Wire and 5 Wire Zone Valve. I show how each part works and I power the valve to show how the end switch closes. I use the multimeter to check continuity of the end switch, input voltage, and resistance of the non powered motor.
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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The very best instructional video on zone valves and the relationship to a boiler on the end switch . Keep up the great work in educating future technicians
Thank you very much!
Great video, very well explained! Even a non-techie like me can understand it easily and troubleshoot. I was able to fix a zone valve issue on my own using this video. Thank you so much for posting.
I love people whose not selfish to share their knowledge,thanks you bro
Glad to help sakitlikod1!
That was an awesome understanding of the zone value. Thank you.
Thanks Ray Ray!
You are very welcome.
Very good video. You explained everything very well and made it easy to understand, thank you 👍
Love those test leads. Great video too, thanks!
Thanks a lot Jesse!
VERY INFORMATIVE. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE MULTIPLE ZONE VALVES (5 WIRE) TIED TOGETHER WITH THE REST OF THE FURNACE WIRE CONNECTIONS. MAYBE ANOTHER VIDEO. WELL DONE. THANKS.
Excellent troubleshooting video. many thanks
Love the ultra high-tech ball valve position indicator wire. :-))
Great Video. It help me diagnose a valve issue i was having.
Great video. Thank for taking the time to post it on RUclips.
Thanks Robert!
is there any chance you would do a video on how to wire 4 of these valves together?/
Excellent video. Super helpful. Thank you very much.
Thanks you just made my evening! 🌞
Thanks for the video. Great explanation on operation and troubleshooting!
Thank you, glad to help!
Thank you very much, your time is appreciated. :)
Cool! Very interesting, something new for me. Very easy valves system. Thank you for information.!)
Thanks Tapch MC!
Very good - especially disassembling the gear cover. Mine was working fine except the gearing jumped and couldn't close the m-switch. When working properly, what turns the motor off when the m-switch is closed? Looks like the motor should burn out if it is simply relying on it jamming.
very practical information, thank you ...
Thanks Pei Broker!
Excellent video.where do the two red wires connect to Thanku
Also oil boiler training would be helpful
Jason, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Great video! Do you have a video on how to wire 2 or more of these valves together? Thank you!
Wow awesome video thank you so much
How about when the zone valve stays stuck open? I tap lightly with a hammer to get it to close all the way other wise my upstairs over heats
Can you please do a video on rib relays. I usually see them on oil burners used as a preference relay so they both dont run at the same time and starve the other burner into safety
This was an informative video.
Thanks Ryan!
Thank you, thank you. Out of about 100 videos I've watched in the past few days, that is the most complete explanation I've seen. I'm trouble shooting a zone valve issue in an apartment. Quick question: I'm dealing with an old White-Rodgers power head that has 2 blue wires coming out of it (they are in the push slots # 1 and # 5). Any idea why there would be 3 lines coming to the zone valve where the 3 red wires are nutted together, 2 white wires are nutted with a blue pushed into I believe the #1 slot, and the other white wire is nutted with the blue pushed into the #5 slot. Basically, I can understand 2 lines coming there (1 from the transformer, and 1 from the thermostat, however, where would the 3rd line be going to/coming from? The pump or boiler maybe? Thanks again - Michael
It may be an end switch. I know it may sound silly but it may be as simple as typing into google "model number wiring diagram" and that will say how to wire it, thanks
We had a new boiler (SuperHot 125000 BTU) installed a month ago, along with 5 honeywell zone valves. We had knocking in the pipes and the installer came by and flushed all 5 zones to remove air. Sounds continued and they came back and flushed 3 zones. This has helped somewhat. What we are now hearing is a loud thud/vibrations around the house a few seconds after the thermostats turns off. This seems to happen in 4 of the zones and is worrisome as we can't figure out where these thuds are. The pipes are copper, the house is 3 levels (top level 2 zones, middle level 2 zones and bottom level 1 zone). The old boiler was around 25 or more years old and we are wondering i we should have replaced the zone valves. These noises did not exist with the old boiler. Thank you.
The reason I’m looking at your video (which I really like by the way) is because I wonder what stops the motor from continually trying to advance the “cam” (not sure what the curved arm with the teeth is actually called) once it reaches its endpoint? I realize it activates the switch to call for hot water...and it opens the valve, but that doesn’t give it a message from anywhere to simply sit open until the warmth of the room tells the thermostat to stop sending 24 V, right? Does the motor just work against the springs until enough heat raises the room temperature to deactivate the thermostat’s 24 V and thus the springs relax allowing the “cam” to move and close the valve?
Excellent Video...I do have a Question if you can find Time to answer it. I have an oil burner and 1 Aquastat with high and low limit controlling 1 circulator pump and 2 Honeywell Zone valves. Level 1 zone valve operates fine. Level 2 zone valve had problem with end switch. When the TS is calling for heat on level 1 zone valve i also manually open the level 2 zone valve. The pipe gets hot for level 2 but it does not heat up the baseboard for level 2...what you think the issue is...sorry for long explanation.
I forgot all of this s*** thanks for the refresher in the middle of a job :-)
Nice video, quick question one off my zones is not working, I opened manually and still not feel the hot water when I touch the pipe , what can be the problem?
simple and excellent video instruction.. question. how do i connect my end switch to a navien 240/130H boila. And make work my smart thermostat. Thanks
An excellent instructional video that enabled me to move a thermostat from one wall to another without paralyzing fear, for, really, I couldn't understand the mess of wires in my basement until I watched this video. Best of all, the move worked! On the other hand, as of this writing, there are 544 thumbs up -- mine is one -- but 13 thumbs down. Is this similar to the one vote against Derek Jeter's Hall-of-Fame induction? Some things are mysteries -- dark energy and matter come to mind -- that are just too hard to understand (;-)
Do these valves have the motor stall? I’ve heard where people have gotten them burnt out cause they left them on for too long Which makes perfect sense, but makes me wonder (if this is the case) why not have a gear train where when the lever is pulled and hitting the button instead of stalling have it configured to keep spinning thus not wearing out the motor, similar to how some music boxes are configured like for example if you twist the handle the wrong way, there’s a special mechanism that lets you turn but not wear out the gears.
What is the best commercial refrigerator to get ?
Awesome video! I have three zones two zones work perfectly. The third zone, indirect hot water heater works intermittently. The zone valve does open but circulator and boiler does not start. Does it sound like a bad powerhead to you?
Does the motor run continually, stalled out against the gear, when the valve is closed? There does not appear to be any way it gets turned off once the end switch is closed, and if it did, the valve would close under spring pressure. But it seems like a strange way to design a system.
Nice video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
I wouldn’t like to do refrigeration for a job but I like taking apart a condensing unit
ha ha, nice!
Can the ball valve break? Replaced the power head and it's getting proper voltage but no water flow when opened.
Can you show a video of actually installing one in a mutlitple zone system?
Does the motor consume power after the end switch is activated. In other words, is motor under full load, held stopped by the end switch, while power is applied (and wasted) to the motor?
One of my zone valves stays on the open position constantly. I had to disconnect the wire so the furnace can turn off. So now it's off but still open. So when I turn the system on with the other thermostats we still get heat to that zone. There is no resistance when I move the manual lever. Is it possible the motor is finished and therefore keeping the 2 red wires constantly touching.
Thank you
I just want to make a couple comments reference to heating air conditioners a lot of guys think that's it's just simple tasks that anybody can work on it especially on Heating it's not easy tasks as you guys thinks it's very complicated it will knock your socks off it also applies to air conditioner units working on electrical installs and troubleshooting on heating air conditioner low voltage it's not that simple as you might think that requires a lot of field knowledge and schooling in order to be good Tech and troubleshoot and install.
There is low and rules that applies to every trade you better be certified otherwise you can do a lot of damage to yourself and somebody else and that's not going to be nice pictures on the end. Think about it.
Craig well done as always.
Yes, thank you for adding the additional warning. The trainings here are directed at those in the field already, those in HVACR school, and those looking to move into the trade. Everyone should work under a licensed tech to learn the ropes and to learn to work safe, as well epa 608 certification is needed prior to working with refrigerants and other certifications may be needed as well, thanks Nurfet Alic!
Nurfet Alic, , would you be willing to write a quick 1 to 2 sentence testimonial in reference to my HVACR teaching ability online, questions answered, or the content that I have put out to date? I may display this under the book section, Q & A section or another section of my new the website. This new website, acservicetech.com should be up and running early next week. No hard feelings if you are unable to. I appreciate it! This could be replied here or emailed at info@acservicetech.com thanks a lot!
Try Erie or Caleffi zone valves, much more robust actuator head. And can be replaced without tools.
Thanks Taylor!
Since TR is common, can I connect the “C” wire to it to power a smart WiFi thermostat?
Can you please do a refresher on how to replace propane gas valve (universal).
Jason, the gas valve will depend on pilot/thermocouple, pilot intermittent ignition, or direct ignition. Are you more concerned with the ignition assembly or adjusting gas pressure?
Hi i like your vireo i got an issue in one of my Zone Valve. from 3 when i turn on the thermostat it for that particular valve it does not start the boiler and i checked the lever in it it is kind of locked and does not move like the other one when i push them the move and then comes back where it was any idea thx
Can I tie into that common and run it to my wifi thermostat that needs it?
top man
I like him, spit on on everything he shows. Thank you.
Thanks Dennis!
Spot on, ha ha! Thanks Ray Ray!
Thanks for the video. I would like to see the wiring diagram but your Sharepoint link is broken.
A 24V AC transformer has no polarity, so would it really matter what color wire from the transformer (yellow or orange) goes to R on the t-stat?
How do you connect the 2 red wires to a auxiliary pump. What happens if you install the zone valve with the arrow pointing the wrong direction. Thanks very informational.
You usually would need some sort of control relay in order to power a circulator. You would severally reduce the volume of water being pumped through, thanks
Good video for what it covers. But I have encountered problems on multiple controls where the motor is fine, the thermostat calls for heat, but the gear mechanism does not turn until you nudge it. Also, I have noted a tendency for either the pinion gear or the rack gear to strip or disengage. Any insights for dealing the mechanical gear components?
Replace the dry mechanical/ electrical section of the valve.
Can u go over why electric heat on air handler is giving off gas type smell??
That is likely the dust burning off of the electric elements. Has the unit filter been changed continually each month of running time?
when I turn on zone one zone two comes on and when I turn on zone two zone one come on, is it the wiring?
I don't know if it was mentioned elsewhere in the comments below but if you see a red or orange gasket between the power head and the brass body, (on the older, pre-1985 Honeywell zone valves), DO NOT REMOVE THE POWER HEAD BEFORE DRAINING THE SYSTEM, OR THAT ZONE LINE. Those valves can be converted to the non-gasketed type, but it would be far easier to simply change out the valve to the newer type.
Zone valves are used for ac as well that isn't ran off water supply?
Geothermal units use zone valves as well, yes, thanks!
Is a valve core on a air conditioner the same size as a valve core on a bicycle ?
Yes but the spring has more pressure and the seal is teflon on the side.
Can you make a video zone damper troubleshooting? Thanks
Edgar, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
How do you set the low and high temperatures on that zone valve?
The temp control such as at the aquastat is for setting temps, these are just powered with 24v to open and close, thanks!
I don't understand why the zone valves are designed so that manually opening them is not enough to depress the switch and start the furnace. What is the point of having them open if you have no hot water circulating? I assume the answer is that the manual open is only supposed to be used for flushing your pipes out, not to for emergency heat in the event of a zone valve motor head failure.
Thanks for your video - very helpful. I have a question. One of my zone valves stopped working and I tried to diagnose the problem. I disassembled the valve and took out the motor and tried to see what happens inside when the thermostat calls. I see everything working correctly, that is motor does turn the power head all way until the electric circuit makes contact and engages the pump and heater. I can see and hear pump and stove turning on while holding the valve in open position with my fingers - the electric assembly just hanging loose. But the heat does not reach my radiators upstairs, even though the out pipe getting hot downstairs in the boiler room. So I surmise that the mechanical part (boll head?) still blocks the opening for hot water to travel upstairs despite being turned properly from outside. Is it possible, and what can I do? Also I noticed that the valve driving motor is very hot by itself without even touching any pipes. That would take a lot of electricity just to hold the valve open. Does that mean the motor is bad?
Why would the valve stick open? and when you tap on the valve body with something rigid like 3/4 inch PVC pipe it then closes. End switch model V8043F1036. Installed January 2017 Just 2 years old January of 2017. What kind of warranties do they have From the manufacturer
It could be either the internals or the power head. You could try replacing the power head first.
So how does the motor reverse when the call for heat opens on the thermostat. The red wires reverse polarity?
The spring pulls it back open, thanks!
So the motor is still applying force until the call for heat is over. The spring brings the valve back to close with no power to the motor.
Amazing content. More content please. Also, Can We be Friends?
Is it 100% liquid refrigerant coming out of the condenser and going into the evaporator coil ?
yes subcooled liquid out of the condensor before the metering device. Look up acservicetech refrigeration cycle and superheat and subcooling, thanks
Couple issues with the Honeywell: The motor is stalled on to keep the valve open. This always keep pressure on the brass gear. The stupid little brass gear on the motor is a press fit and splits. Over long term this same brass gear wears out when meshing with the steel following arm. With time the entire assembly gets contaminated/worn and simply fails due to increased friction of the arm. I got very tired of replacing the expensive motor assembly. SO SIMPLE solution was Remove motor head disconnect it then open the valve and use the return valves as balancing valves. Larger rooms full on. Smaller cracked. WORKED FINE WITH ONE STAT in a central location. ON 27 year old system. Several sets of heads in that time. LAST 7 years no head and balanced= $$$ saved and lots of time.
Your links to the Honeywell Wiring Diagrams don't work. I called them and they no longer support these valves which might explain why the links don't work. Could you give another link, perhaps to your own website?
Are these just in residential?
They are found in residential and light commercial applications, thanks
hi i have a honeywell zone valve only 6 years old appears to failed inside brass housing i cannot open manually its stuck why would this happen?? i get hot water going to zone but not open enough to to return back thru to complete loop.
If you can valve it off, you can replace the guts from the top. You would just buy another to set down inside. It may just be from corrosion, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel hey thanks for reply i figured out its the head not the valve i took head off and discovered that valve stem will move and stay in position my power head is broken so just need new head assembly after turning stem open(like only 1/4") i have hot water to zone when other zones calll for heat and open and circulator comes on! im pretty happy i dont have to cut pipes!
Very good Tom!
Looks like the 4 wire and 5 wire examples are the same. When you hook up to the terminals in the first example...they are jest the front side of where the two motor wires are attached
Yes I wanted everyone to see that they are exactly the same on the inside. Next time you get a 4 wire valve you can pop the cover off but I wanted to show testing, thanks Steve!
I thought the end switch called for the boiler??
It depends on the wiring setup, usually it turns the circulator on and the boiler works by itself to operate and keep its temp at for instance 180 degrees for baseboard radiators, thanks!
I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
Not much info on the ball valve I guess. I have a similar issue with no flow. I would assume that you have a faulty valve but that's just a big guess. If you have figured it out please let me know as it might help me.
@@futuregamer5791 my problem was that there was flow when the valve was supposed to be off. We are talking about zone valves the same as the subject of this video. I assumed it was just faulty and I returned it for a replacement, but the replacement was the same. In the end I had to buy the much more expensive Honeywell valve instead of the generic one. It was the wet part of the valve that was the problem. The motor part in the cheap valve was fine, but the ball part just didn't seal properly when it was closed.
@@adrianthoroughgood1191 I'm guessing it's possible for them to stick closed. I'm able to manually turn the paddle though. This is for a large apartment building so I would hate to have to turn off heat and isolate the valve just to find out. But I guess that's probably what I'll end up doing. Thanks for letting me know what your issue was though.
@@futuregamer5791 it's certainly much easier to change the motor than the valve, doubly so in your situation. If you haven't already I suggest taking the motor off which is very easy just 3 screws and seeing if you can turn the valve axel with some pliers. If you wiggle that back and forth a few times that might loosen it up. Leave it in the open position (anti clockwise) and see if you get flow. If that works try putting the motor back and see if it works properly. If that doesn't work then you need a new motor. You can buy those separately. My experience was that the generic motor was fine, but if you're not on a tight budget Honeywell is best.
@@adrianthoroughgood1191 right on. Thank you.
👍
Thanks Clint!
Why do you have to be epa 608 certified to connect manifold gauges to a refrigeration system why can’t anyone do it ?
Jacob, it seems like you are asking the same question over and over. I don't mind answering questions but you should probably just head over to www.epa.gov/section608
Sorry for asking the same question
Oh I understand it only applies for CFC and hcfc refrigerants only that makes sense
There is an update that it does include hfc this year, thanks
Can anyone work on a refrigeration system just for fun ?
Jacob, it seems like you are asking the same question over and over. I don't mind answering questions but you should probably just head over to www.epa.gov/section608
I just like to tinker with refrigeration for a hobby
Yes, I would call your local county technical high schools to see if they off night adult epa 608 courses and cert tests. They are usually pretty cheap, thanks
These are not "mounted on a boiler", nor do they "provide hot water to multiple locations". This is hugely misleading.
Hi,
I'm looking for an answer for my problem if anyone can help. it's about using a smart thermostat (Emerson Sensi 1f87u-42wfc) along with my Electric furnace. I do have 2 zone valves. The main one is a White-Rodgers 1361-102 connected also to the 2nd one the Motortrol 672b307. They are of course interconnected. Someone is trying to help me online and he said that the current setup is not ordinary, still waiting for his suggestions.
My schema is below, we can see the R/W/C all connected to the 1361 then 672b. Thermostats shown are also non-smart (old ones that uses mercury) If anyone could provide any help, I can't thank you enough.
Could the Sensi not be compatible with these 2 valves? Well especially with the 672b as it will be connected to that one
The 672b has 4 wires, black/blue/white/brown. That's the box on right the right, and the first one is the 1361. This setup is the original one.
Thank you
i.postimg.cc/qB9f0qY8/schema-2-zones.jpg